Preload should be adjusted out of the stand. Best way to check is to put it on the ground, hold the front brake, and rock the bike forward. If the preload isn't enough you'll feel the bearings knock.
My carbon fork has aluminum steerer tube. However my carbon frame does not have metal cups for the sealed bearings. Shall I use grease even with the parts in contact with carbon
I WISH that big Al hosted EVERY video on this channel. I personally just can't stand the lack of a personality from the other presenters. They just so blatantly read, and sound like they are reading lines instead of just talking normal.
I recently bought a used bike frame with a tapered head tube and tapered fork - I have all the components besides the black "thingy" you remove from the fork that I guess is supposed to make the bearing remain centered. my fork on the other hand seems to already have that built in? is that possible? I cant push the bearing further down and it sits there nicely centered, am I missing something?
Put something like a long screwdriver through the headstock tube and locate it on the lip of the bearing and tap round them to knock them out. They've probably seized in through lack of grease in the installation but will knock out easily.
I know it's been long time since your comment, but it may be helpful for people who just see and wonder as well: it's Shimano's grease gun. You can literally find it by searching "shimano grease gun" or part number LBGG1ES
Integrated headsets on mt bikes drive me nuts. no idea why but I cannot keep mine from knocking. within 5 minutes of every ride it starts again. Im buying a better headset to try out but damn this is frustrating.
Its because you are not clamping the bearings. Instead, you are tightening it like a cup and cone in a wheelhub. Ill explain.. Its a thrust bearing. You will get Perfect tolerance if you snug down ever slightly on the top cap. As you ride the clearances will develop and you will have a supportive system.
@@vgjgghbgyjn1985 Good explanation. My problem came from a steer tube that wasnt squarely cut. That resulted in the starnut being slightly tilted. Turning back and forth created play. The starnut has to be very close to level with the cups or there will be problems.
@@flyingnorseman the star fangled nut can be twisted if it seems sideways slightly. You can reshape your steerer tube or use taller spacers. The top of your steerer tube shouldnt be in contact with anything.
@@vgjgghbgyjn1985 Exactly but my starnut setting tool had to meet a squarely cut steer tube to keep the starnut level with the headset. You could actually see the headset cap bolt was leaning in respect to the steer tube. My buddy cut the steer tube on his bandsaw but he said the tapered aspect of it made a square cut very difficult. Not realizing this, I set the starnut flush with the uneven steer tube. This made the preload on the bearings uneven. Its an insanely frustrating situation.
It absolutely is fully integrated, aka no pressed in removable cups (semi integrated) so the bearings sit directly in the seats manufactured into the carbon of the steerer tube.
Preload should be adjusted out of the stand. Best way to check is to put it on the ground, hold the front brake, and rock the bike forward. If the preload isn't enough you'll feel the bearings knock.
You should put way more grease in the headset, especially if the bearings aren’t fully sealed.
I need to remove the caged bowl so I can put a new headset in it
Is there a manual outlining the assembly of the bearings and split rings?
My carbon fork has aluminum steerer tube. However my carbon frame does not have metal cups for the sealed bearings. Shall I use grease even with the parts in contact with carbon
I also need the answer to this question!
Yes
Top bloke is Al.
What brand can i buy a Compression ring for integrated cable routing other than Token and Acros?
Great video very helpful❤️
I WISH that big Al hosted EVERY video on this channel. I personally just can't stand the lack of a personality from the other presenters. They just so blatantly read, and sound like they are reading lines instead of just talking normal.
So i dont unscrew the top.
Swap the ball bearing thing.
Then screw the top back on?
I recently bought a used bike frame with a tapered head tube and tapered fork - I have all the components besides the black "thingy" you remove from the fork that I guess is supposed to make the bearing remain centered. my fork on the other hand seems to already have that built in? is that possible? I cant push the bearing further down and it sits there nicely centered, am I missing something?
Yes, Some forks have integrated/built in crown races “thingy”.
my bearings won't come out easily 😟 what should I do?
Put something like a long screwdriver through the headstock tube and locate it on the lip of the bearing and tap round them to knock them out. They've probably seized in through lack of grease in the installation but will knock out easily.
@@andrewoverton5170 Thank you I'll keep that in mind 😁
Hello,
How can i find out what kind of headset i have??
There is a number,
Torture: 40 IN-LBf(4.5n-M)
Specialized Sirrus Elite Medium Hybrid sport.
Great video thanks!
Or in my case, you have to hammer the lower bearing for it seat properly, and break your nails pulling it out :D
Why should the logos be aligned?
My lower and upper bearing is stuck. What should I do?
Hammmer them out
What about a headset where the fork has a hydraulic cable running through one leg to the disc calliper; not so easy to remove the fork!
Grease does NOT cause carbon to 'swell' - that is straight up wrong!
Would love to know the make of that grease gun @cyclingweekly
I know it's been long time since your comment, but it may be helpful for people who just see and wonder as well: it's Shimano's grease gun. You can literally find it by searching "shimano grease gun" or part number LBGG1ES
@@Vitas993 thanks a lot for the info. I never did get one so now I know. Thanks again
Integrated headsets on mt bikes drive me nuts. no idea why but I cannot keep mine from knocking. within 5 minutes of every ride it starts again. Im buying a better headset to try out but damn this is frustrating.
Probably under torqued and bad bearings.
Its because you are not clamping the bearings. Instead, you are tightening it like a cup and cone in a wheelhub. Ill explain..
Its a thrust bearing. You will get Perfect tolerance if you snug down ever slightly on the top cap. As you ride the clearances will develop and you will have a supportive system.
@@vgjgghbgyjn1985 Good explanation. My problem came from a steer tube that wasnt squarely cut. That resulted in the starnut being slightly tilted. Turning back and forth created play. The starnut has to be very close to level with the cups or there will be problems.
@@flyingnorseman the star fangled nut can be twisted if it seems sideways slightly. You can reshape your steerer tube or use taller spacers. The top of your steerer tube shouldnt be in contact with anything.
@@vgjgghbgyjn1985 Exactly but my starnut setting tool had to meet a squarely cut steer tube to keep the starnut level with the headset. You could actually see the headset cap bolt was leaning in respect to the steer tube. My buddy cut the steer tube on his bandsaw but he said the tapered aspect of it made a square cut very difficult. Not realizing this, I set the starnut flush with the uneven steer tube. This made the preload on the bearings uneven. Its an insanely frustrating situation.
My cannondale says to grease the carbon fork???
Do that then
Hi ADVISE ME PLEASE ❣️ is it worth my while to buy a Raleigh RC 6000 for $250 USD. ???
No
Good video guys but please lose the side camera shot. _(I mean of the presenter, not the bike)_
Not an integrated headset. Wasted my time.
Are you om crack?
It absolutely is fully integrated, aka no pressed in removable cups (semi integrated) so the bearings sit directly in the seats manufactured into the carbon of the steerer tube.
P
Are you wearing lipstick??
Lmao