EZ shop - Thanks! Wish I could take all the credit for the idea but watched how Pierson made some pallets and copied from them as I started making mine. They seem to hold up well.
Pleas, please, please, buy a tap set, will make life a whole lot quicker and easier (includes bottoming tap ), but as always, good video and nice to see the pallets coming alone
KINGKit808 - Fair comment, I really should be using a spiral point to rigid tap the blind holes to pull the chips up and a bottom tap to finish them. Just came down to cost savings and time, I went with what the Helicoil kit came with rather than buy more. You can definitely buy STI (standard thread insert) taps in any design you want. If this were the actual part vs. the fixture I would likely go that route. Appreciate the comment.
@@BladesIIB We do a lot of tapping in cast iron, so the price of a tap compared to a, in your case a pallet. Its a lot cheaper to buy the tap :) keep up the videos
Oh, one other thing: Check your no-engagement feedrate on the passes or linking tab in the adaptive. It looks like your non-cutting moves aren't moving fast.
Bill Strahan - I will definitely take a look at this? The Tormach has a max of 300 ipm for X&Y and 230 for Z. I thought it should default to that but I will pay more attention and confirm. Thanks.
Obviously, this isn't your part, it's your fixture. So if it takes two hours who cares? But you might consider IF you're comfortable drilling the additional depth of your miteebite pocket with the drill bit you're using for the threaded hole, you can specify that as an entry point for the adaptive and your helical ramp into the adaptive can be programmed to run MUCH faster. If this was a production part, I"d pre-drill with a drill bit larger than my end mill where the pockets are, but only about 2mm below the top of the tapped hole. I'd do that to get enough room to drop straight in without the helical ramp by specifying that point as a pre-drilled entry point in the adaptive. On aluminum it doesn't matter much, but in stainless and titanium you can save a TON of time (and extend end mill life a ton as well!) by pre-drillng entry points for the adaptive. Helical entries work but they're slow. And you can probably drill it just deep enough to leave a spot drill and chamfer for drilling with the smaller drill bit for the tapped hole BUT, as I said, if it takes two hours on this who cares? Enjoyed the video, hope you'll keep them coming! We're all learning!
Bill Strahan - Really appreciate the detailed comments and feedback. Could not agree more about the time saving by editing out the helical ramp. Especially since they were all still in there even for my finish cuts when the material was already gone. Up to this point in my learning journey my focus has been on the design of the part and running the machine. I have been just taking the tool paths that Fusion gives me. Clearly a few hours invested learning how to edit tool paths will pay huge dividends and as I am moving to longer cycle times with these pallets. I think now is the time to spend the time learning this. Pre drilling would definitely save time. I will figure out the best way to update my starting point. Either using the height options or feed in options. Thanks for all the suggestions. Helps me with where to focus my learning.
@@BladesIIB Glad it was useful! There's always SO MUCH to learn. On a good day I learn something new, on a really good day I do it without breaking any end mills or vises. :)
I'll stop eventually, but one other thing you can do is fully model the pallet and pallet base. Your pallet model should contain separate components for the machinable volume versus the locking rings. The files Pierson provides have them modeled correctly, you'll just need to do a little organizing to get them setup correctly. But the reason for doing this is it provides a big payoff: When you go to machine, you can set the stock as "from solid" and select the machinable body, but then you select all the other parts as the fixture, in the first tab of your setup. Now when you simulate, select "Stop on collision" and you'll get red indicators in the scroll bar and the simulation will also pause when running if you drill or mill into either the pallet base, or the locking rings of the pallet! That saved my butt once.
Bill Strahan - More gray tips. Thank you. The model from Pierson does have the parts. Will play with them and try to set them up as the fixture. I know what the red and collision points look like. I was actually getting some of that on this pallet when I was not hitting anything so, again, an area I can invest some more time learning and fully understanding.
Looks good Bud! Really nice pallet system and nice work on the design. Love the mitee bite clamps. I made a fixture plate using the same clamps to hold down some 6"x10"x.1/2" 6061 plate. Was fun just making the fixture plate lol
Nice job. I have a similar pallet that I use for a camera accessory. How did you account for different length of blank material? I order pre-cut blanks but the actual length varies a few thou.
Bill Griggs - Thanks for the question. The Mitee Bite clamps allow for about .016” variation. My blanks don’t come that exact either. I set up a quick program and since they are wide enough to stick out both ends of the vise I quickly trim each end to get them square and to length. I also stack 10-12 in the vise fist to cut the sides and get the width where I need it. The prep work adds some time but for me I need the square blanks since I have to flip them once as part of my process. Hope that helps.
@@BladesIIB Thanks for the response. I am enjoying your videos. In my pallets I opened up the pocket on one end to allow for oversized blanks. My parts don't have to be flipped on center because the next pallet for Op2 locates the part. Excess material is removed with a face mill, followed by a chamfer bit. I love my Pierson Mini Pallet system. I may look into setting a single origin point. Perviously, I machined in the datum point and probed the pallet as part of the setup.
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very good job BUD
Tr Precision Machining - Thanks, good learning as always.
Love the idea of using Helicoil. Ciao, Marco.
EZ shop - Thanks! Wish I could take all the credit for the idea but watched how Pierson made some pallets and copied from them as I started making mine. They seem to hold up well.
@@BladesIIB Smart.
@@EZ_shop Appreciate that!
Pleas, please, please, buy a tap set, will make life a whole lot quicker and easier (includes bottoming tap ), but as always, good video and nice to see the pallets coming alone
KINGKit808 - Fair comment, I really should be using a spiral point to rigid tap the blind holes to pull the chips up and a bottom tap to finish them. Just came down to cost savings and time, I went with what the Helicoil kit came with rather than buy more. You can definitely buy STI (standard thread insert) taps in any design you want. If this were the actual part vs. the fixture I would likely go that route. Appreciate the comment.
@@BladesIIB We do a lot of tapping in cast iron, so the price of a tap compared to a, in your case a pallet. Its a lot cheaper to buy the tap :) keep up the videos
Learning so much from each video, Well done.
William Bryce - Thanks for the comment glad they are adding value for you.
Oh, one other thing: Check your no-engagement feedrate on the passes or linking tab in the adaptive. It looks like your non-cutting moves aren't moving fast.
Bill Strahan - I will definitely take a look at this? The Tormach has a max of 300 ipm for X&Y and 230 for Z. I thought it should default to that but I will pay more attention and confirm. Thanks.
Obviously, this isn't your part, it's your fixture. So if it takes two hours who cares? But you might consider IF you're comfortable drilling the additional depth of your miteebite pocket with the drill bit you're using for the threaded hole, you can specify that as an entry point for the adaptive and your helical ramp into the adaptive can be programmed to run MUCH faster.
If this was a production part, I"d pre-drill with a drill bit larger than my end mill where the pockets are, but only about 2mm below the top of the tapped hole. I'd do that to get enough room to drop straight in without the helical ramp by specifying that point as a pre-drilled entry point in the adaptive. On aluminum it doesn't matter much, but in stainless and titanium you can save a TON of time (and extend end mill life a ton as well!) by pre-drillng entry points for the adaptive. Helical entries work but they're slow. And you can probably drill it just deep enough to leave a spot drill and chamfer for drilling with the smaller drill bit for the tapped hole
BUT, as I said, if it takes two hours on this who cares? Enjoyed the video, hope you'll keep them coming! We're all learning!
Bill Strahan - Really appreciate the detailed comments and feedback. Could not agree more about the time saving by editing out the helical ramp. Especially since they were all still in there even for my finish cuts when the material was already gone. Up to this point in my learning journey my focus has been on the design of the part and running the machine. I have been just taking the tool paths that Fusion gives me. Clearly a few hours invested learning how to edit tool paths will pay huge dividends and as I am moving to longer cycle times with these pallets. I think now is the time to spend the time learning this. Pre drilling would definitely save time. I will figure out the best way to update my starting point. Either using the height options or feed in options. Thanks for all the suggestions. Helps me with where to focus my learning.
@@BladesIIB Glad it was useful! There's always SO MUCH to learn. On a good day I learn something new, on a really good day I do it without breaking any end mills or vises. :)
@@billstrahan4791 Ha - well said! I do prefer learning without having to pay what I call “the stupid tax”. Truth is, I have paid my share.
I'll stop eventually, but one other thing you can do is fully model the pallet and pallet base. Your pallet model should contain separate components for the machinable volume versus the locking rings. The files Pierson provides have them modeled correctly, you'll just need to do a little organizing to get them setup correctly. But the reason for doing this is it provides a big payoff: When you go to machine, you can set the stock as "from solid" and select the machinable body, but then you select all the other parts as the fixture, in the first tab of your setup.
Now when you simulate, select "Stop on collision" and you'll get red indicators in the scroll bar and the simulation will also pause when running if you drill or mill into either the pallet base, or the locking rings of the pallet! That saved my butt once.
Bill Strahan - More gray tips. Thank you. The model from Pierson does have the parts. Will play with them and try to set them up as the fixture. I know what the red and collision points look like. I was actually getting some of that on this pallet when I was not hitting anything so, again, an area I can invest some more time learning and fully understanding.
Looks good Bud! Really nice pallet system and nice work on the design. Love the mitee bite clamps. I made a fixture plate using the same clamps to hold down some 6"x10"x.1/2" 6061 plate. Was fun just making the fixture plate lol
tdg911 - Thanks, I agree making the pallet is half the fun.
Nice job. I have a similar pallet that I use for a camera accessory. How did you account for different length of blank material? I order pre-cut blanks but the actual length varies a few thou.
Bill Griggs - Thanks for the question. The Mitee Bite clamps allow for about .016” variation. My blanks don’t come that exact either. I set up a quick program and since they are wide enough to stick out both ends of the vise I quickly trim each end to get them square and to length. I also stack 10-12 in the vise fist to cut the sides and get the width where I need it. The prep work adds some time but for me I need the square blanks since I have to flip them once as part of my process. Hope that helps.
@@BladesIIB Thanks for the response. I am enjoying your videos.
In my pallets I opened up the pocket on one end to allow for oversized blanks. My parts don't have to be flipped on center because the next pallet for Op2 locates the part. Excess material is removed with a face mill, followed by a chamfer bit. I love my Pierson Mini Pallet system. I may look into setting a single origin point. Perviously, I machined in the datum point and probed the pallet as part of the setup.
@@BillGriggs sounds like you have a good set up. I would recommend the single origin. Makes for smooth pallet changes for sure.