This is the video that other TH-camrs should reference when making tutorial videos. Your tool list and visual reference of parts in and out of the car is the standard of explanatory videos - thank you for showing such a great how-to on getting this done.
Hello! Your videos are awesome! Thanks a lot! I am a foreigner living in Taiwan. Here is no real support on transaxle cars from Porsche as they have never been officially imported and just a few around with nearly one of them on the road anymore. Hence, I need to do every work by myself. This is why I highly appreciate videos like yours. By the way: I own a 928 S4 and a 968. Looking forward to your next video. Best wishes Andreas
I’ve watched a good amount of videos on the clutch replacement since I got my 944 as I’m doing the clutch now. Your videos are by far the best in my opinion.
Your videos are amazing friend! Detailed, all encompassing, excellent audio, subtle music, knowledgeable, and good easy to listen to voice. Great job, great job. I have two 944S2's an am about to do the clutch on the 89 so this couldn't be better. I bought a lift for $900 on Craigslist and it made my life so much better. Wish I could buy one for you. Thanks and all the best.
Very detailed illustration before he gets into it. Makes it more interesting to watch. Thumbs up- good job- you can fix my 944 as well- lol clutch is also gone.
I'm doing mine now...its not a daily so I'm doing bits of it when I have time. Its been a year now and I'm still at it. The speed sensors.... man those were a pain, I had to drill them out! Thanks for making these, maybe one day ill make one. Ive already done the timing belts myself!
Awesome! Good luck with your project! I keep a lot of spare speed and reference sensor brackets around for that reason. You just never know when you're just going to run into trouble with them. I will be making a video on the belts soon but I have just been so busy trying to get customer cars out of the shop that I haven't had much time for anything else. Thanks, for watching!
Very instructive and terrific tutorial. My struggles were as follows: 1) Clutch fork pin: I could only took it out using this method: youtu.be/w?v=KGIPx5WeDyM&t=644s But instead of using sleeves under the nut, I just put the open ends of more and more spanners until it was out enough to just wiggle it out. 2) Torque tube: When trying to slide the tube back away from the clutch, the shaft stuck inside and I only moved the tube back. I had to turn the engine a bit and used scissor lifts to tilt the engine back and forward a little to be able to pull the shaft out from the cluth. I believe it's better to pull the shaft from behind of the car to pull it out a little before grabbing the tube itself. There are breaklines above the front of the tube to watch out for though. Also some say to jack up the engine first under oil pan and somewhere at the front so it doesn't just sit on the engine mounts when you separate the tube. It can rock forward or backward especially if your mounts are not in good condition. I think it's best to use scissor lifts under oil pan and at the front to play with its position so you can pull the shaft more easily. 3) Sensor bracket: My nuts were totally seized into the engine block and destroyed the hex slot on the nut while trying to unscrew it. I tried the cold chisel method first to loosen it from above: youtu.be/w?v=R5d0Bgvjmlk&t=313s Didn't work.. Then I put a nut splitter tool onto the head of the nut from above the engine bay. Turned the teeth of the nut splitter perpendicular to the bolt then drived it in 1-2 mm deep into the head of the bolt. Then I was able to loosen the nut by turning the splitter tool from above.
Also, when I was trying to loosen the sensor bracket nut using the cold chisel method from above, from the engine bay, the sensor sleeve started to come up from the bracket like a wine bottle cork so I was able to grab the upper edge of it and pull it out so it was no longer in the way to remove the bellhousing.
I like your videos with lots of information and I love the fact that you address the early and late cars. I have a specific need, my 83 is an and I need to replace the rear main seal, do you have any content on this topic?
I believe it is covered in this series of videos. Since you have to take the clutch out to replace it I went ahead and replaced it on this car. Good luck!
Hi 1 st off great video. So given the amount of work would you say it's just as much work if not less pulling out whole engine from underneath if you have a crane.
I've gone back and forth on this and I think it's roughly the same amount of work. So its really up to which way you prefer. If you need to reseal the engine then it makes more sense to just pull it and do it that way.
@@edredas yeah I definitely need to reseal especially lower balance shaft seal. I've done clutch job before no fun with regular Jack getting trans out with spacing and most weight on back. Any advice on pulling engine under was thinking lowering it onto plastic tray and sliding out since I'm on concrete. Safe to let it rest on oil pan for more clearance?
Hey Brent. Last week while accelerating in 2nd gear, I heard a cracking sound and the car came out of gear. Now, all the gears grind so I can’t get it into any gear. The shifter and the clutch pedal feel totally normal. I’m thinking it’s the clutch but not positive. What are you thoughts? It’s an 86 turbo. Thanks!!
Interesting, I would say its the clutch fork or the throw out bearing that has failed but you said the pedal feels fine. Either one of these would cause the disc to not be released by the pressure plate, making the gears grind. However, either one should make the pedal feel very different. With that being said, unless something is lodged in between the pressure plate and the disc its likely on of the two. There's a clutch inspection port near the slave cylinder. You might be able to look in there while someone presses the clutch just to see what happens. If it looks fine its possible its a foreign object. I hope that helps!
@@edredas - thanks a lot! After the holidays, thanks to your clutch series, I’ll attempt sorting it out. I’ll let you know what I find. I wouldn’t even try this without being able to watch all your content. Thanks again. 😊
Glad you got it! Yeah if the engine is out you can hammer it out from the top, but we wrestle with them quite a bit and the only thing you can do with it in the car is keep hammering from below. Not a fun job sometimes!
Thanks for posting this. There is definitely a clutch job in my future. Your vids give me the confidence that I actually can do this myself. I noticed your car was up on blocks of wood. Is there clearance by just using jack stands?
Yes, if you have big enough jack stands then you can lift the car up more than enough. That said, in the video I actually had the car lifted up on four steel Harbor Freight ramps. The wood blocks were just there as a safety net to catch the car should something happen. I've even used these ramps in the shop to do the clutch on the 1984 944 and had enough room for me to roll under the car on the creeper. I feel safer under the ramps than the jack stands, I hope that helps!
After I posted I did notice the ramps. I think I would agree that I'd feel safer working under those than just using jack stands. I've read that the trans weighs in at 140 pounds. Would you say that's accurate? Really enjoying your vids.
Thanks! Yep, the trans is 140-ish pounds and while you can remove and install it again with a regular floor jack I don't really recommend it. I've done it a like that few times but it takes two people and is way more work. So because of that I can only recommend using a transmission jack since you can do it by yourself much faster without even breaking a sweat. I hope that helps!
Ouch, I'm not really sure there is a good way to do it. I suppose if you were able to rock the crank, it might knock the socket loose so it will fall down to the bottom where you can get it out with starter removed. That said, if it is jammed in there and not allowing the crank to turn I'm not sure what you will have to do? Hopefully, pulling the bell housing is a last resort. There is a flap at the OT window that if might be hung on, so I would check there first. I hope that helps!
Not yet, I do plan to make a video but just haven't had the chance yet. I do remove the cam tower in the engine removal video, and shows the tools you need but isn't very detailed.
![เปิดบ้าน นาราเครปกระเทย 1 ไร่ ขายขาดทุนหลัก10ล้าน เอามาใช้หนี้!!! l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0jz84VFWVP4/mqdefault.jpg)
This is the video that other TH-camrs should reference when making tutorial videos. Your tool list and visual reference of parts in and out of the car is the standard of explanatory videos - thank you for showing such a great how-to on getting this done.
Thank you!
I know this is an older video but this is awesome. Your instructions and off the car demonstrations make everything super easy to follow. Keep it up!
The Edredas garage to the rescue again. I am a pate0n supporter of this channel. You should consider being one also.
Thanks so much! Also thanks again for being a patreon supporter!
Hello! Your videos are awesome! Thanks a lot! I am a foreigner living in Taiwan. Here is no real support on transaxle cars from Porsche as they have never been officially imported and just a few around with nearly one of them on the road anymore. Hence, I need to do every work by myself. This is why I highly appreciate videos like yours. By the way: I own a 928 S4 and a 968. Looking forward to your next video. Best wishes Andreas
Glad to hear you are enjoying them! I have more videos coming soon!
I’ve watched a good amount of videos on the clutch replacement since I got my 944 as I’m doing the clutch now. Your videos are by far the best in my opinion.
Thanks! I'm glad you enjoyed them!
edredas they’re helping. Any idea how to get the top left bellhousing bolt off when it’s super freaking tight?
@@elidenbeste8205 I often have to use a universal with extension on a breaker bar to get it off. I hope that helps!
Great video! I really appreciate your having taken the time to document everything so thoroughly.
No problem! I'm glad you enjoyed it!
This is a great video my friend. I love how you show the parts off the car as you go. Every part I will interact with is so well drawn out. Thanks!
Thank you! Your videos are helping me tremendously this week as I'm replacing my clutch in my 86 na. Cheers from Mobile, Al
Your videos are amazing friend! Detailed, all encompassing, excellent audio, subtle music, knowledgeable, and good easy to listen to voice. Great job, great job. I have two 944S2's an am about to do the clutch on the 89 so this couldn't be better.
I bought a lift for $900 on Craigslist and it made my life so much better. Wish I could buy one for you. Thanks and all the best.
Thank you and good luck with your projects!
by the way ,clutch videos are the best I've seen. again thanks
Thanks!
Very detailed illustration before he gets into it. Makes it more interesting to watch. Thumbs up- good job- you can fix my 944 as well- lol clutch is also gone.
I'm doing mine now...its not a daily so I'm doing bits of it when I have time. Its been a year now and I'm still at it. The speed sensors.... man those were a pain, I had to drill them out! Thanks for making these, maybe one day ill make one. Ive already done the timing belts myself!
Awesome! Good luck with your project! I keep a lot of spare speed and reference sensor brackets around for that reason. You just never know when you're just going to run into trouble with them. I will be making a video on the belts soon but I have just been so busy trying to get customer cars out of the shop that I haven't had much time for anything else. Thanks, for watching!
Very instructive and terrific tutorial. My struggles were as follows:
1) Clutch fork pin:
I could only took it out using this method: youtu.be/w?v=KGIPx5WeDyM&t=644s
But instead of using sleeves under the nut, I just put the open ends of more and more spanners until it was out enough to just wiggle it out.
2) Torque tube:
When trying to slide the tube back away from the clutch, the shaft stuck inside and I only moved the tube back.
I had to turn the engine a bit and used scissor lifts to tilt the engine back and forward a little to be able to pull the shaft out from the cluth.
I believe it's better to pull the shaft from behind of the car to pull it out a little before grabbing the tube itself. There are breaklines above the front of the tube to watch out for though.
Also some say to jack up the engine first under oil pan and somewhere at the front so it doesn't just sit on the engine mounts when you separate the tube. It can rock forward or backward especially if your mounts are not in good condition.
I think it's best to use scissor lifts under oil pan and at the front to play with its position so you can pull the shaft more easily.
3) Sensor bracket:
My nuts were totally seized into the engine block and destroyed the hex slot on the nut while trying to unscrew it.
I tried the cold chisel method first to loosen it from above: youtu.be/w?v=R5d0Bgvjmlk&t=313s Didn't work..
Then I put a nut splitter tool onto the head of the nut from above the engine bay. Turned the teeth of the nut splitter perpendicular to the bolt then drived it in 1-2 mm deep into the head of the bolt.
Then I was able to loosen the nut by turning the splitter tool from above.
That's a great trick! I'll keep it in mind since they get stuck far too often! Thanks!
Also, when I was trying to loosen the sensor bracket nut using the cold chisel method from above, from the engine bay, the sensor sleeve started to come up from the bracket like a wine bottle cork so I was able to grab the upper edge of it and pull it out so it was no longer in the way to remove the bellhousing.
Nice, those sleeves can be a pain! Glad you got it out without having to remove the entire bracket!
I like your videos with lots of information and I love the fact that you address the early and late cars. I have a specific need, my 83 is an and I need to replace the rear main seal, do you have any content on this topic?
I believe it is covered in this series of videos. Since you have to take the clutch out to replace it I went ahead and replaced it on this car. Good luck!
Truly appreciate the extra time you took to call out the details. 👍Thank you!
No problem! Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks!
Great video -- this is a massive job!
Again, Awesome. You are the reference. thanx again.
Hi 1 st off great video. So given the amount of work would you say it's just as much work if not less pulling out whole engine from underneath if you have a crane.
I've gone back and forth on this and I think it's roughly the same amount of work. So its really up to which way you prefer. If you need to reseal the engine then it makes more sense to just pull it and do it that way.
@@edredas yeah I definitely need to reseal especially lower balance shaft seal. I've done clutch job before no fun with regular Jack getting trans out with spacing and most weight on back. Any advice on pulling engine under was thinking lowering it onto plastic tray and sliding out since I'm on concrete. Safe to let it rest on oil pan for more clearance?
Hey Brent. Last week while accelerating in 2nd gear, I heard a cracking sound and the car came out of gear. Now, all the gears grind so I can’t get it into any gear. The shifter and the clutch pedal feel totally normal. I’m thinking it’s the clutch but not positive. What are you thoughts? It’s an 86 turbo. Thanks!!
Interesting, I would say its the clutch fork or the throw out bearing that has failed but you said the pedal feels fine. Either one of these would cause the disc to not be released by the pressure plate, making the gears grind. However, either one should make the pedal feel very different. With that being said, unless something is lodged in between the pressure plate and the disc its likely on of the two. There's a clutch inspection port near the slave cylinder. You might be able to look in there while someone presses the clutch just to see what happens. If it looks fine its possible its a foreign object. I hope that helps!
@@edredas - thanks a lot! After the holidays, thanks to your clutch series, I’ll attempt sorting it out. I’ll let you know what I find. I wouldn’t even try this without being able to watch all your content. Thanks again. 😊
My fork pin is completely seized won't rotate or budge with the 3lbs slide hammer... Any suggestions?
Got it! It took 3 hours with the slide hammer and spraying pb blaster in the opposite end of the pin from the topside of the engine
Glad you got it! Yeah if the engine is out you can hammer it out from the top, but we wrestle with them quite a bit and the only thing you can do with it in the car is keep hammering from below. Not a fun job sometimes!
Thanks for posting this. There is definitely a clutch job in my future. Your vids give me the confidence that I actually can do this myself. I noticed your car was up on blocks of wood. Is there clearance by just using jack stands?
Yes, if you have big enough jack stands then you can lift the car up more than enough. That said, in the video I actually had the car lifted up on four steel Harbor Freight ramps. The wood blocks were just there as a safety net to catch the car should something happen. I've even used these ramps in the shop to do the clutch on the 1984 944 and had enough room for me to roll under the car on the creeper. I feel safer under the ramps than the jack stands, I hope that helps!
After I posted I did notice the ramps. I think I would agree that I'd feel safer working under those than just using jack stands. I've read that the trans weighs in at 140 pounds. Would you say that's accurate? Really enjoying your vids.
Thanks! Yep, the trans is 140-ish pounds and while you can remove and install it again with a regular floor jack I don't really recommend it. I've done it a like that few times but it takes two people and is way more work. So because of that I can only recommend using a transmission jack since you can do it by yourself much faster without even breaking a sweat. I hope that helps!
edredas OK. Thanks again for the quick responses.
Thank you, well done
Thanks!
do you have a suggestion on how to get to a small socket that fell into an opening on top of the bell housing. can't turn the crank. thanks
Ouch, I'm not really sure there is a good way to do it. I suppose if you were able to rock the crank, it might knock the socket loose so it will fall down to the bottom where you can get it out with starter removed. That said, if it is jammed in there and not allowing the crank to turn I'm not sure what you will have to do? Hopefully, pulling the bell housing is a last resort. There is a flap at the OT window that if might be hung on, so I would check there first. I hope that helps!
Ok thanks brother !
hi Brant!!! what the '' sniper" is and what for? i don't have it on mine (1984 NA) but there is a bung on the exhaust pipe near o2
Hi, the sniffer is for an outdated diagnostic tool used at dealerships. Most people just weld the bung up or put a lug nut over it. I hope that helps!
@@edredas thank you
Do you have a valve cover removal video ?
Not yet, I do plan to make a video but just haven't had the chance yet. I do remove the cam tower in the engine removal video, and shows the tools you need but isn't very detailed.
prices ? disc
Clutch kit is about $500