How to Choose the Right Lincoln Cents for Grading - High Grades Are More Valuable!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ก.ย. 2018
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Hey everyone, I have another spinoff channel called BlueRidgeCollectibles where I share my other favorite hobbies. Come check out this new channel and show your support with a sub! / @blueridgecollectibles...
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Who are they to judge my coins , beauty is in the eyes of the beholder . Good vid , I am ready to submit a bunch of coins , it’s time to weed out the bad ones . I’ve kept a 1992 Lincoln cent , close AM , DDO , DDR , now I will have to put it under my microscope and check for these pesky carbon spots , or anything that will keep me from getting a high grade .
Thanks .
I just scored 28 rolls of unc cents 1954-1980. I have narrowed them down to 50 coins. I found 3 1969 d no fg they look at least ms65. I am quite certain I have some here that are ms66+. They were in a safe for over 40 years! Wish me luck!
I've seen many cents with nicks and dents etc. that have recieved ms 66 and MS 67. The graders really grade strongly based on strike strength. Condition isn't everything but it helps. Same with exceptional toning
Just started coin roll hunting. Thank you for not dumbing it down. And thanks for the info.
That answered a lot of my questions. Thanks for your time and effort. Information is great. Thank you.
Learning alot shawn. Thank you for all your help. Your great and keep doing what you do. I really enjoy watching you and look forward to continuing to grow my collection.
Thank you for all the great educational videos I just started coin collecting and I’ve been both happy and sad with in the first day,I just wanted to thank you for sharing your experience with us!
Thank you, BlueRidgeSilverHound! Very informative again.
Awesome video. answered a lot of questions I had about sending coins in for grading.
Yes Partner, this information was very helpful in that I have yet to send out my first submission of coins, which I'm about to do, yet was having a difficult time deciding which should go first. Now I have a better idea. Thanks!
Shaun, thanks again for the great content and all you do for the coin collecting community
Blue, it would be extremely awesome if you made a video on the coins you felt like you were robbed on. I am trying to find some really nice example but..I see some freaky shit, especially with the lincoln cents!
Thanks for the info bro. Now I know what they're looking for. Appreciated very much
Very good information BlueRidge! Hope this helps people out not to waste money on submissions 😊
Needed to see this one for sure!! THANKS
Great video BRSH, excellent information!
Thx for the info!! This one ill watch a couple or times
just watched your video on the bulk coins and about on the grading I really learned a lot thank you very much I have a lot of coins the same and now I know a little bit more what to look for I really appreciate it thank you very much
Great information about grading coins Blue Ridge thanks again.
I'm new to coin collecting and have a ton of change from over the years. I'm setting aside my best looking cents for grading. I'm worried that my my coins may get low grades. It sounds like many collectors have been disappointed with the grades their coins received. My question is - doesn't the grading institution list the reasons why the coin received its grade so we know what to look for next time.
Thank you for the video,just what i needed to see
Thanks ! I really like this video !! Answered a lot of my questions about grading. I just took some coins off my send in list. 💥🥊 JIM
Thank you. Very helpful!
Thanks, Shaun! Hope you are feeling better!!
Finally..the best explanation anyone has given,that tells us what we can dream about or not. Thanks! for your expertise..jpy😊
Super helpful. Thanks.
Your knowledge knows no bounds. I would so love to see a video like this one, talking about Buffalo nickels and other silver coins as well. I'm learning so much from you and the grading is difficult for me to get a handle on. Maybe more grading videos in general? You should be nominated for a TH-cam channel award! I would definitely vote for you. Thanks again.❤
😊😊
Not every coin is created equal. The graders absolutely love thicker coins and stronger details than average. That is the key to exceeding the normal ms 65 wall
Another great video!!!
Great video! "Ironically," last night my Mother knows that I am into coins & my late Grandpa was a serious collector. She stumbled across a roll/clear tube of 1959 P with big letters UNC.,and the funny thing is, ....I am scared too even open them! haha one day I will & thanks to your video I will surely know what to look for! =D
Great topic, I have a pretty large collection of "better" Lincoln's I thought about picking out the best one's to possibly send in for grading. I am a little worried that they won't grade high enough to justify the expense.
How expensive?
Wow! Those coins are beautiful.
Thank you Shawn. I guess I'll have to buy uncirculated roll. I'm done for awhile.
From what I get from this video usually not worth having a coin graded unless it is extremely valuable or an error coin.👍
Thanks Shuan for this lesson
Great info + presentation!
one way to stay ahead of the game is find mint condition of your current year like 2021 and if you keep it mint ill be worth more in the future
thanx for that note !! or tip !!
I love lincoln cents. They are fun for me.
Wow thanks another great!😁
200k subs!!!!!! Congrats Blue Ridge silver hound 🎉
Very very helpful.
great question and video with a reply I have a question, when sending a coin can you add a coin thats graded number to compare with coin you send?
Thanks for the education so far I have not submitted any coins for grading. I buy the coins that are already graded. I know that I will not make any money right away I enjoy collecting what I like and what I think will hold it's value.
Good things to keep in mind Thanks!!
Love your videos! I started stacking silver but I started to really enjoy the numismatic part of the hobby . Who doesn’t love a nice shiny penny right? 1936 D and 1938 D I have graded is Ms 66 65 and 64 . Thought that would be a nice jump but turns out they go for about 5 bucks a pop in those high grades . Lincoln’s are tough . I just saw your video on the 1931 s and I just bought one of those graded EF 40 from ANACS for 80 bucks. That’s what the coins worth so I can’t complain but my point is 50s and 60s are tough they don’t have any serious value unless they grade 67 or 68 .
Thanks for your video information two thumbs up.. 😎😎😎😎😎
Great job explaining.
Great info
Thanks BlueRidge your video reiterates why I have never submitted a coin for grading. The graders can assign whatever grade they feel like and still get to keep your money, whether that grade is accurate or not. That being said, if a person is happy with their collection thats what really matters. Take care & see ya in the next one.
Plus Coin Switching ! You are given them to Robbed you ! If your Coin Over Five Grands you are now in trouble
My 1995 Penny On Dime Planchet- ACG Mint. Year of Famous 1995 Doubled Die! They see in real time the Million US Dollars Coin 2 Full Complete Popular Dates 1995 w Mirror Proof Like! Trying to steal it from me in Baltimore Coin Show for a Couple Hundreds Dollars 💵! Bwahaha ! Enjoy the Coin Show and come back and leave your Coin here I am kind of Busy right now.. lol 😂
Now I see coin, thanks!
That's why many people don't send they coin for grading, because your coin is good condition coin, but thanks for your information two thumbs up.... 🥇🥇🥇🥇🥇
Shaun I swear, many of the coins I see on PCGS website touting the highest grade do have carbon spots...not all of them but many, while I haven't sent anything in as you say it's so tough and going through change I've certainly found enough nice looking pieces I almost feel like it's based on preference toward the person...
The reason behind this is they were stronger strike and deeper struck than average coins. That really is the key to it.
So while they may have carbon spots, nicks and dents they still got thise higher grades just because of the strike strength.
Good stuff. I sent some beautiful proof 60s and 70s nickels. All came back as either PR66 or 67.....
How about 1964 d nickels? Missing full steps but uncirculated. Maybe ms 65 or 66
Thanks for the info Sean question the better the coin the better the grade but what about older pennies with toning versus Brown's red Browns that have a somewhat flawless image I've watched a lot of these videos and where it's been shown that these pennies that are in poor condition sell for decent money what's the pros and cons to those different types. Love your videos and very helpful information
Beautiful coins either or
Wonderful clip have allot of 50 and60 are like the video you show possible selleach at 7.50
I have a 1960 D Large Date to me its absolutely beautifuland it has doubling front and back but im new to this is it worthit
I will start picking my coins as soon as they come out of machine
It appears that I have an unstamped penny blank. Would this be worth anything?
I've got a 1964 d red should I get it graded and how much does it cost to grade a penny
How do you turn down the 2000's dated pennies shiny copper glare? Because to me, everything looks doubled.
Hi, bro I was collecting Lincoln cent for long now. Lately I came a cross 1 particular year I'm still very confused on the die in the years 1981. I have more than 2 dozen in the large die date in the year. But only 2 coin are small die date. If you can help me with this. Please and looking forward for your advice. Thank
Thank you so much......
If there so fussy then how do u get the high grades? They choose a couple people who send the most coins? And by doing that they will also deter people from doing that. Eventually people will say whats the point!?
Hello , my question would be
Where does a MS67 become a + ?
Just had three pennies graded. I totally expected them to grade higher but each one was a MS 65 RB. One was graded as a "proof." I had no idea it was a proof coin. The proof graded MS 65 + Still I expected the grades to be higher. They must get some outstanding pennies.
That last coin looked pretty good. Quick question and anyone can answer this if they know it. Why does luster matter? Because I have a lot of 40s 50s and 60s that are in phenomenal shape however do to the coin being a "brown" or "red" or any business coin for that matter it's not going to carry that luster as a S. Sry I'm new to game but want to learn as much as possible if I should send my coin or not.
Blueridge, when grading a coin that is being submitted as a variety, does the nicks and carbon spots still carry as much weight, lets say, as a coin that isn't being graded as a variety coin?
Thanks for verifying that carbon spots DO detract from the grade. Glad got microscope.
What the grade pgs address if you want to send them in. What's the cost.
It did for me the got a the 1995 double bie graded at 65 I was hoping 66 it was close
I agree with the e-mail the man sent you. my coins are very good
Thank you for posting this! I am reading grading criteria (via Blackbook) but your demonstration REALLY opened my eyes! I had no idea grading was so brutal! I've only submitted 1 coin to NGC and I'm still waiting. It's over 100 years old and looks like it! It's a key date but Lincoln has practically no ear. I would have liked to see more examples of the wear on the design and some specifics about hair and flatness, but great video! I'm glad I didn't rush to send more for grading. mahalo
Large die cud on 1944 s in the wheat stalks, who would i send it to for true authentication.
I have about 50 1960-1970 cents to submit. Should I consider sending some into anacs first? Or ngc or pcgs. What's the best idea. I'll keep the top 10 I have for pcgs. Maybe I'll send a few in to anacs. I have a ms66+ to use as a comp and some of my coins definitely look better than the 66+ I have
Hello. I recently found a 1963 no mint penny. Not rare but the color is great a was wonder if I could send you a picture and you could help me and let me know if it's worth sending in for grading
I have a roll of 1961's that have a purple die splashes on then.
So I can see the different flaws on the coins u was presenting for us. It my question is the amount of flaws. If there is one small scratch only seen with a glass is something like that worth sending in to be graded? If there is a flaw that is visible to the naked eye does that mean its probably not worth grading? Is a blemish or spot worse or is scratch and nicks worse? At what point is it to much to be not worth grading? Or is it just simply a coin has a blemish or scratch seen by glass or naked eye it is just not going to be worth grading?
Yeah.. well I just learned alot about the process. I was thinking maybe some of those guys need better eye glasses, or need them to start with. I see the ones from PCGS and they are the original guys to do the grading. I'm sure sometime they kinda don't even see the coins.. because it's etched into their brains and any nick.. or flaw is just auto pilot for them. But it Does make alot sense the way you explained it. I've noticed some sites that sell coins.. pennies to Gold coins and everything in between, I see people selling coins... Alot are Ungraded . And they sell them at auction.. And they always add shipping of a couple/few bucks. So I guess if you have a coin even worth $15..+ but you don't get it graded, and sells for $.99 Then at least you made something, Especially if you get them from Circulation. This was a very helpful video. Now I really need to think my stuff through. I think sometimes the important thing is That someone knows.. It's a legitimate Coin. Which can be just as important, especially if it's a rare double die.. that maybe comes bk only a ms64 ms65. If people want that coin they will buy it in less than those conditions I mentioned, just so they can have it for their collection. Thanks for the great video.
You know, the grading companies have their defenders and detractors, but I'd say this video right here highlights one inarguable fact: You do not get any explanation for your coins' grades, and I have yet to see any reasonable excuse for that. Considering how much these guys charge and how long they've been in this business , there is no reason they shouldn't have a simple rubric for scoring the various attributes and giving that as a printout or internet-accessible file for the customer (and anyone the customer may grant permission to see). If they developed an easy scoring template, the time added to grade each coin would be negligible, literally seconds and here I'll reiterate the money they make for each coin. The fact that they do NOT do this, the fact that a disappointed and puzzled customer has to ask around for someone to give them a (free) explanation..... in my opinion lends rock-solid weight to the detractors' disgust. Consistent, referencable scoring criterion would give a company the ultimate credibility that some hobbyists already grant them.
Absolutely 💯 I don't think that could've been said any better for what we're paying they should at least explain why they took our money and what we need to avoid. Guess if they keep us guessing we'll keep sending them in while they get rich off of us.
@@davycrockett4395 Exactly. I used to teach high school, and I not only gave grades back with the rubric scoring shown, I gave them the rubric at the START of the assignment, so they they could basically know what grade they would get if they did each of the parts (depending on how well they did each part). There is a barely-comparable version of this on the PCGS website (and maybe others) but the wording is pretty vague, talks about 'this' factor in one grade but 'that' in another (no consistency), and only one photograph example for each grade. And some are toned, some not. it's just about worthless.
It would definitely help the coin owner understand what they missed so they know what to look for next time. BUT I suspect it would NOT help the grading company because it would give people something to argue about (“It’s not my fault it was a crummy strike-the coin is CLEAN!”).
@@lkayh It would be their fault for sending in a coin without considering its' crummy strike. I have no problem with the grading being 'whatever' criteria they want to use, but customers should have some idea what to expect, based on that criteria.
@@audreymuzingo933 I agree. I’m just saying sometimes when you give reasons for a decision, it gives people something to argue with, where if you just give your decision without explanation, they don’t know where to start.
How can I get a picture to you guys too tell me what it is. It looks like a midevil hammer struck piece of silver
The fact of the matter is these grading companies have particular people that they give unusually high grades too more often than not because they submit a lot of pennies I feel like they favor or show favoritism that's the only thing that would make sense
Also Blueridge does brown affect the grade?
I'm still trying to discover how much it costs to submit a coin(s). Also if they increase the charge for a coin that gets graded. Rough times here and I can't just send stuff on spec. Looking at the official websites did not help much.
A lot of useful information though.
@Michael H02SW Thanks. That will limit my submissions. Might set up a web page to show images of those I think are different enough to submit. I have about 30 That I thought a more serious look.
Give us some information on high and low relief 1924 peace dollars.
it might be educational if you showed the slabbed coins you sent out that came back 64, 65, or 66 instead of just showing a series of problem coins without an attached grade.. it's funny because i was recently told that carbon marks aren't really supposed to affect the grade..you hear different things but showing coins that were actually graded would be useful.
Thank you, this was helpful and now I know about carbon spots and streaks. Looking for videos on how to choose quarter quality (smooth and shiny or smooth but not shiny). Also, what does BU rolls mean?
Business strike Uncirculated
Brilliant uncirculated
Wow thank you honestly I thought I pulled a 1985 p right out of a roll I literally looked over the coin literally nothing on the coin other then 1 literally 1 carbon spot I’m upset the strike is amazing no die deterioration no nicks what so ever absolutely gorgeous but one carbon spot on the reverse I compared to pcgs and I believe my coin looks much better I see so many nicks and water spots as I call them and mine is free of them even under 20x but it has one carbon spot I think it would grade ms68. But it could be a 69 without the spot and who knows how much they would knock off because it’s on the memorial smh at least it’s not on the statue
Good inf.
Do they grade error coins, is that a thing?
Shaun, I wish you had examined some Lincolns before 1934.I have all early red coins, and am on the fence about having the non key and semi keys dated.
so when you say circulated grade value has to be AU or almost flawless in order to make it worth collecting.
Hello Mr.BlueRidgeSilverhound, I’m a subscriber of great shows and videos. You have been educating me about coins for approximately 1.5 years.
By your definition of “unique “, I strongly believe I have a 1971 coin that defines unique. I don’t know if you would be interested in speaking with me about it. I hope this is not inappropriate, I would like to speak with you privately about it if you are interested. Thank you, James
How are you polishing this coin that shiny because I know for its age it's browned once or twice. I would like to know how you get them shiny again so you could look at the surface better with a shiny or Surface instead of a dull brown or red surface because of the Aging.? Please do get back with me on that sir
Im new to coin collectiing whats a bu roll??
Where do you get the pennies you submit? Do you just buy cheap mint coins and hope for the best? Do you pick them out from good pics online and pay more? Do you scour your local coin shop for the best coins in person?
How you Clean the Pennys.
I have 23 rolls of 1959, 1959-D, 1974, 1974-D uncirculated pennies that I got from a bank back in the early 1990's. At the time I only opened a couple of the rolls so now I wondered how to proceed I still do not want to open the rolls until I know what I'm doing.
does anyone know why ANACS is no longer considered a good grading company? they have deals where you can send 10 coins for like 100 bucks (or so) so what i was thinking was sending 10 of my best BU Wheaties to them first, and if any of them hit 66 or higher, then perhaps sending those to PCGS (i mean, if they are worth potentially in the thousands...)... seem like a reasonable plan?