Hi , when you drill the holes on the lynx from 8 to 10 mm you can bolt the cut of and the shunt straight on . When you want I can send you a picture what I have done.
Hi Christian, Thanks for the tip! Sure feel free to send the pic via email or on instagram 😎👍 I bought a short copper bar to use instead of cable for the cut off switch between the lynx as-well. Was planning to use that for the shunt too but your idea might work better! Thanks!
Thanks! I liked the idea to monitor everything from one screen, including water tanks etc so the cerbo is great. Didn't want to have lots of different gauges etc. Hopefully it'll be a nice neat setup and works out well!
@@CasLaz ya that’s true. When we built ours I was trying to save money, but it’s actually cheaper to get the Cerbo lol. Oh well, I could change where I put all the gauges but I would mean I’ll have to put a new backsplash in the kitchen wall, which isn’t too bad, it’s just all the wiring lol. If we decide to keep this van and change the bed layout then, I think I’ll take that chance to change the kitchen backsplash, re-route the gauges and the mount the display somewhere else lol. Am guessing with the Cerbo you don’t need the BMV-712?
I was thinking about the same thing, it seems expensive at first sight but with the extra features / convenience it's probably only slightly more expensive? it's worth it for the extra features etc in my opinion. Cerbo GX + GX Touch = no BMV-712
@@CasLaz it’s about double the price, but for what you get and how neat it makes it look, plus being able to monitor it online etc it’s cheaper in that sense 😊.
@The O Team Yeah + not having separate water gauges, all extra wires, inverter remote etc - We thought it was worth it. Hopefully it works out well, Stay tuned for install and review 👍😎
I got my solar panels from craig solar as well, I've gone with 5 X 100w they seem to have good specs for the money, but I'm having LPG for heating and cooking, so don't need a massive solar power bank
hi guys like the schematic and the talk , thinking of going victron myself. one question if i may is the inverter shown a multiplus II so it is an inverter/charger . cant seem to find your product in the link as it looks different and called a phoenix. could you possibly help me on this . All the best Lee. so this inverter also has an automatic internal switch inside so it will detect hookup and the power will go to same sockets as the inverter power
Hi, I think the phoenix might be the slightly newer version / rename. I updated the link in dthe description to the exact one we have. Hope it helps. Yeah it has a transfer switch from shore and it's also a charger.
Hi Wayne thanks for watching! That was just a rough example of a 1000w AC load (including inverter inefficacy etc) eg 900w load + (10% for inverter efficiency losses etc) = 1000w ish at 230v AC is around 83A from the 12v batteries / hour It's just a rough estimate, but if you take 10% inefficiency into account it should be accurate enough for what we need to calculate rough power requirements - eg running induction on 100AH LifePo4 Batteries is not really viable.
@@CasLaz Thanks so much for the reply, that's helpful. Can I ask also how you connected to the vehicle battery? I know it's in the cab floor so did you go in through the underbody? I'm trying to work out how to do it neatly!
@@dylantucker7951 No worries! Check this video, starts around 0:30 I show the cable run for the B2B th-cam.com/video/VDgY6JXynB4/w-d-xo.html If you wanted a shorter cable run you could run it through the floor and under the van, I know some people done it that way.
Hey Gary! Thanks for watching😎👍 Yeah the electrical stuff is something that I been planning, learning and thinking about for the past 6 months! It's very overwhelming and doesn't happen overnight but keep at it and you can do it! You mean the 3D Layout? 3D Layout was done by me, Steve from roamer done the 2D Wiring diagram and helped finalize components, wire gauges, etc in the consultation call - get in touch with him if you are struggling, he is very helpful.
@@garynealon6060 Thanks Gary, glad you find the videos inspiring, we were inspired by TH-cam videos too so hopefully we can give back to the community by documenting our journey!👍😎
Compared to other LiFePO4 brands we found Roamer much cheaper (victron etc). If I were to do it again I'd build my own battery but didn't want to go down that rabbit hole this time.
Thanks George ! Glad you are enjoying the series 😀 I looked at the multiplus ii briefly but I ruled it out pretty quickly after looking at dimensions. Its too high to fit in our bench seat standing up. Multiplus II is 546 high vs Multiplus 362 high (it's deeper but its short!) our bench seats are 50cm high so we are limited to that. We were actually tempted to go with the Multiplus 2kva instead of 3kva but it has the same problem, the 3kva is actually shorter and we didn't want to be pushing the 2kva to the limit so went with the 3kva in the end.
I will use 95mm same as the main negative, check explorist.life wiring diagrams he runs the same for convenience and I think its a US wiring reg (could run few sizes smaller but I don't want to buy a specific size just for that). He talks about it in the 1h install video I shown at the end of the video.
Hey! The manual suggests 2x50mm2 for 0-5m hence why 95mm2 should be sufficient. I think it's recommended as the multiplus can output up to 29A (around 6kwa) on 230v if you are connected to shore power (with power assist from batteries) for short durations. Recommended DC Fuse size is 400A (in manual) hence why 95mm2 (we'll most likely only use a 300A fuse anyway, but if we need more power later we just swap the fuse instead of re-wire everything. I think you could get away with less but better be safe then sorry on wiring. The wiring diagram / cable sizes was put together by Steve from Roamer so I trust his advice on this!
@@CasLaz ah that makes sense, the multiplus assist I mean. Looking forward to your vid when you get some of it in. On a different note, does your Truma 6E clone have AC assist, I noted you didn't discuss an On Hookup only socket for that. Anyways, top stuff and a pleasure to watch.
Replying to my own reply, but the 95mm2 is still hurting my brain. Sure if it was 5m but that's nearly the length of your van, at 1m which is far more appropriate it'd be significantly less. You're totally right to go with the pro advise, as that's certainly not me(trying to figure it all out myself) Just if you use a calc like this www.wirebarn.com/Wire-Calculator-_ep_41.html for say 1m you come close to that 50mm2 at say 400A. Anyways good luck crimping those 95mm2 lugs :)
@Michael McGuire Yup it can run on 230v or 12v+diesel . Ran a dedicated 230v line for it and it'll be on it's on breaker in the consumer unit 👍 We'll most likely only use it in electric mode if we are on hookup, but we could use it on short bursts if needed without draining the batteries too much - two modes, 900w or 1800w, basically same draw as an (lower power) induction cooktop. A quick 10 minute burst in the morning without firing up the diesel will be nice even if we are off grid!
@@AgileMcGuire I agree I think we could most likely get away with a smaller cable for the length of run. There are so many factors that go into wire gauge, insulation type, how many cables are together, what are they in / clipped to. So for something pretty major in our build we'd rather follow the victron / roamer recommendation. Check out explorist.life wiring diagrams / calculator - he normally recommends / uses 120mm2 for multiplus 3000. www.explorist.life/wire-sizing-calculator/ It's best to consult with a professional if you are in doubt, I'm sure if you ping Steve a message from roamer he'll be more then happy to help you out! I already crimped a 95mm2 it's not too bad!😂 you can see it a few videos back (chassis ground)
@@johnwildwest1 Yup it's not a cheap setup - fortunately we could bring the price down using roamer batteries, if we went with main brand it would cost £1.5k ish extra. We also save on not having to fill up gas long term, and the gas installation (could cost around £800 for underslung gas tank)
We are 😂 I know plenty of other people who's electrics setup is upwards of 5k and plenty that's under 1k. Benefits of doing the build yourself, tailor it to your needs / budget !
Hi , when you drill the holes on the lynx from 8 to 10 mm you can bolt the cut of and the shunt straight on . When you want I can send you a picture what I have done.
Hi Christian, Thanks for the tip! Sure feel free to send the pic via email or on instagram 😎👍 I bought a short copper bar to use instead of cable for the cut off switch between the lynx as-well. Was planning to use that for the shunt too but your idea might work better! Thanks!
@@CasLaz Chap on wiltshire camper has shown this in his recent leccy vid. Gave me the idea to do the same. Looks very tidy.
@@CasLaz ok I can send you some pics then just give me your e- Mail
@@christianwinkelmann8477 you can find our email in the channel about page 👍😎 Thanks!
@@CasLaz the only thing what I can see is insta what I don’t have no E- Mail.
Very nice, looking forward to seeing it up and running.
Thanks 👍 Excited to get this up and running asap! stay tuned!
Very nice video, I like the battery up have. I wish I got the GX and display screen, made next time or even in another build lol
Thanks! I liked the idea to monitor everything from one screen, including water tanks etc so the cerbo is great. Didn't want to have lots of different gauges etc. Hopefully it'll be a nice neat setup and works out well!
@@CasLaz ya that’s true. When we built ours I was trying to save money, but it’s actually cheaper to get the Cerbo lol. Oh well, I could change where I put all the gauges but I would mean I’ll have to put a new backsplash in the kitchen wall, which isn’t too bad, it’s just all the wiring lol.
If we decide to keep this van and change the bed layout then, I think I’ll take that chance to change the kitchen backsplash, re-route the gauges and the mount the display somewhere else lol.
Am guessing with the Cerbo you don’t need the BMV-712?
I was thinking about the same thing, it seems expensive at first sight but with the extra features / convenience it's probably only slightly more expensive? it's worth it for the extra features etc in my opinion.
Cerbo GX + GX Touch = no BMV-712
@@CasLaz it’s about double the price, but for what you get and how neat it makes it look, plus being able to monitor it online etc it’s cheaper in that sense 😊.
@The O Team Yeah + not having separate water gauges, all extra wires, inverter remote etc - We thought it was worth it. Hopefully it works out well, Stay tuned for install and review 👍😎
Really great educational video
Thanks Rich! 👍✌ Excited to get this up and running!
I got my solar panels from craig solar as well, I've gone with 5 X 100w they seem to have good specs for the money, but I'm having LPG for heating and cooking, so don't need a massive solar power bank
Awesome Nick! Yeah Craig Solar panels seems to be great value 😎
Hope your LPG Install goes well! 🤞👍
hi guys like the schematic and the talk , thinking of going victron myself. one question if i may is the inverter shown a multiplus II so it is an inverter/charger . cant seem to find your product in the link as it looks different and called a phoenix. could you possibly help me on this . All the best Lee. so this inverter also has an automatic internal switch inside so it will detect hookup and the power will go to same sockets as the inverter power
Hi, I think the phoenix might be the slightly newer version / rename. I updated the link in dthe description to the exact one we have. Hope it helps. Yeah it has a transfer switch from shore and it's also a charger.
@4:34 does that calculation take in losses, there's losses in cabling, losses in converting DC to AC and back to DC (Induction hobs are DC powered)
Hi Wayne thanks for watching!
That was just a rough example of a 1000w AC load (including inverter inefficacy etc)
eg 900w load + (10% for inverter efficiency losses etc) = 1000w ish at 230v AC is around 83A from the 12v batteries / hour
It's just a rough estimate, but if you take 10% inefficiency into account it should be accurate enough for what we need to calculate rough power requirements - eg running induction on 100AH LifePo4 Batteries is not really viable.
Thanks for the video. Would be great to know what 3d software this is .Thanks
Hi Dylan, It's in Blender, It's free!
@@CasLaz Thanks so much for the reply, that's helpful. Can I ask also how you connected to the vehicle battery? I know it's in the cab floor so did you go in through the underbody? I'm trying to work out how to do it neatly!
@@dylantucker7951 No worries! Check this video, starts around 0:30 I show the cable run for the B2B
th-cam.com/video/VDgY6JXynB4/w-d-xo.html
If you wanted a shorter cable run you could run it through the floor and under the van, I know some people done it that way.
Hi guys another great video, did you get Roamer to do electrical layout. I've not even started my build yet and over whelmed already!!
Hey Gary! Thanks for watching😎👍 Yeah the electrical stuff is something that I been planning, learning and thinking about for the past 6 months! It's very overwhelming and doesn't happen overnight but keep at it and you can do it!
You mean the 3D Layout? 3D Layout was done by me, Steve from roamer done the 2D Wiring diagram and helped finalize components, wire gauges, etc in the consultation call - get in touch with him if you are struggling, he is very helpful.
@@CasLaz will do , keep the videos coming they are a great inspiration.
@@garynealon6060 Thanks Gary, glad you find the videos inspiring, we were inspired by TH-cam videos too so hopefully we can give back to the community by documenting our journey!👍😎
Cool set up, but 'affordable' batteries, from Roamer??? Think they're pretty expensive myself...
Compared to other LiFePO4 brands we found Roamer much cheaper (victron etc). If I were to do it again I'd build my own battery but didn't want to go down that rabbit hole this time.
Hi guys. Loving your videos. I’m going LPG-free too. Can I ask whether you considered Multiplus II (as opposed to original Multiplus)?
Thanks George ! Glad you are enjoying the series 😀 I looked at the multiplus ii briefly but I ruled it out pretty quickly after looking at dimensions. Its too high to fit in our bench seat standing up.
Multiplus II is 546 high vs Multiplus 362 high (it's deeper but its short!) our bench seats are 50cm high so we are limited to that.
We were actually tempted to go with the Multiplus 2kva instead of 3kva but it has the same problem, the 3kva is actually shorter and we didn't want to be pushing the 2kva to the limit so went with the 3kva in the end.
What size earthing cable to multiplus you using (don’t mean the negative I mean earth)?
I will use 95mm same as the main negative, check explorist.life wiring diagrams he runs the same for convenience and I think its a US wiring reg (could run few sizes smaller but I don't want to buy a specific size just for that). He talks about it in the 1h install video I shown at the end of the video.
@@CasLaz great stuff thanks ,I thought it would just be a 10mm2 or similar ,I’ll sort that tomorrow.
What day you coming to Wales ?
Are you sure about the 95mm2 cable runs? That seems massive, most calculator suggest around 35-40mm2 for 250A over 3 feet or so you'd need.
Hey!
The manual suggests 2x50mm2 for 0-5m hence why 95mm2 should be sufficient.
I think it's recommended as the multiplus can output up to 29A (around 6kwa) on 230v if you are connected to shore power (with power assist from batteries) for short durations.
Recommended DC Fuse size is 400A (in manual) hence why 95mm2 (we'll most likely only use a 300A fuse anyway, but if we need more power later we just swap the fuse instead of re-wire everything.
I think you could get away with less but better be safe then sorry on wiring.
The wiring diagram / cable sizes was put together by Steve from Roamer so I trust his advice on this!
@@CasLaz ah that makes sense, the multiplus assist I mean. Looking forward to your vid when you get some of it in. On a different note, does your Truma 6E clone have AC assist, I noted you didn't discuss an On Hookup only socket for that. Anyways, top stuff and a pleasure to watch.
Replying to my own reply, but the 95mm2 is still hurting my brain. Sure if it was 5m but that's nearly the length of your van, at 1m which is far more appropriate it'd be significantly less. You're totally right to go with the pro advise, as that's certainly not me(trying to figure it all out myself) Just if you use a calc like this www.wirebarn.com/Wire-Calculator-_ep_41.html for say 1m you come close to that 50mm2 at say 400A. Anyways good luck crimping those 95mm2 lugs :)
@Michael McGuire Yup it can run on 230v or 12v+diesel . Ran a dedicated 230v line for it and it'll be on it's on breaker in the consumer unit 👍
We'll most likely only use it in electric mode if we are on hookup, but we could use it on short bursts if needed without draining the batteries too much - two modes, 900w or 1800w, basically same draw as an (lower power) induction cooktop. A quick 10 minute burst in the morning without firing up the diesel will be nice even if we are off grid!
@@AgileMcGuire I agree I think we could most likely get away with a smaller cable for the length of run.
There are so many factors that go into wire gauge, insulation type, how many cables are together, what are they in / clipped to. So for something pretty major in our build we'd rather follow the victron / roamer recommendation. Check out explorist.life wiring diagrams / calculator - he normally recommends / uses 120mm2 for multiplus 3000.
www.explorist.life/wire-sizing-calculator/
It's best to consult with a professional if you are in doubt, I'm sure if you ping Steve a message from roamer he'll be more then happy to help you out!
I already crimped a 95mm2 it's not too bad!😂 you can see it a few videos back (chassis ground)
Wonder what the system cost bud
The whole electrical setup is around £5k, will do a full cost breakdown of the conversion when it's finished. Thanks for watching!
Dam that's hell a lot, will be looking forward to seeing the rest good luck with it
@@johnwildwest1 Yup it's not a cheap setup - fortunately we could bring the price down using roamer batteries, if we went with main brand it would cost £1.5k ish extra.
We also save on not having to fill up gas long term, and the gas installation (could cost around £800 for underslung gas tank)
I built a VW T5 still have it in all around 22,000, time to sell her on for a bigger van I'm thinking Nd start all over again
Nice! We hope to get this done all in for under 30k, we will see haha. Stay tuned for more episodes!
This is ridiculous. That setup costs upwards of 5k. Who's paying that?!
We are 😂 I know plenty of other people who's electrics setup is upwards of 5k and plenty that's under 1k. Benefits of doing the build yourself, tailor it to your needs / budget !