yeah, not something you wanna do. during self check it calibrates the input shaper by measuring the impulse response of the movement axes. you wanna repeat this every time you move the printer to a new location (due to resonance of the surface its standing on). and you dont want to touch it to not artificially dampen any of the resonance it is trying to measure.
Get a textured PEI build plate - no messing with glue - prints snap off easily - if you're patient enough to wait for it to cool they literally just fall off.
Glue stick is pretty old school for 3D printing now, you should never need it with modern built plates. It definitely helps but should never be needed.
That's a nice pro 3D printer there! Well built and looks great, with attention to detail. I'm still mighty impressed how the tech has evolved through a few years since it went mainstream.
I just bought one of these. Excellent printer. For filling the filament, you need to unclip the feed tube and feel a bit of filament through. unlock the lever on top, feed the filament in till it stops, lock the lever then press the tube back into place. Now there is a menu for "extrude/retract". After loading filament run "extrude" and it will prime the print head. To swap filaments, run "retract, and it will retract the filament, and you can reverse the steps you did to add the filament... and swap it out for another/different roll. Dont touch the bed when calibrating, it will throw the calibration off (pressure transducers on the underside of bed)... your pressure applying glue could have upset it. These things with creality print's defaults just scream. If you try ABS, selecting the ABS profile and any one of the presets; will just work almost flawlessly. Just be weary of slicing prints that have supports hanging out in the wind; those will tend to fail.... so generate your supports carefully (switching to smaller support sizes so you can get them into the zones so they don't stick out of the model hanging in the wind.
You don't really need glue especially for PLA and even more so on good printers like this one. Proper bed leveling, bed temp control and good first layer settings can get you excellent first layer sticking without any assistance. And i think your first layer might have broken off because it was too stuck
on cold sheets glue is used to prevent damage to the sheet. pla can stick to it so well that it rips part of the surface off and glue stick serves as a sacrificial layer. if you want a nice everyday glue free printing surface, PEI is good but does not have the strongest adhesion.
If it prints like that on a wobbly bench, with it jerking about like an epileptic belly dancer, it should be fantastic on a solid base. You can make the prints extra strong, should the need arise, by coating them in thin superglue, letting it get into the tiny pores and gaps between layers for a couple of seconds, and then squirting with activator. It can make a big difference.
Yep I to waited for printers to reach an unpack and go stage. Nice print job. As said the calibration is tuning the PIDs for the location. Also I read the glue is more to help with release of the print from the bed. And I have found it washes off well in warm water. I wash after each print as it dries out if you layer it and is much harder to remove them. I now can't do without a 3D printer as it is so easy to print Jigs and Mounts for prototypes. Awesome tools for the design shop.
FYI, the bed is mounted on load cells, so don’t touch it, or the print head, when leveling. Also, as others have said, do not touch the printer at all while it is calibrating. Since you did touch it, you need to run Input Shaper again as well. The doors should be closed and filament should be loaded as well.
3D printers make a great companion to electronics as yo can build the customer enclosures for the electronics projects, or use electronics to bring a mode to life. Thing is you find out that it’s actually not the printing that’s the “hobby” it’s the CAD to make the thing you print. These OOTB printers reduce the need to learn loads about the pruning process and get you to the end product s lot quicker. I do love what my Ender thought me about the process, but equally learning CAD (Fusion) was great too.
@@EEVblog2 OnShape, Fusion 360 are the big contenders in terms of Ease-of-Use and complexion nowadays, I believe. There are also things like TinkerCad which have limited featuresets, but are dead simple to use.
I wish Linux had better options for CAD. FreeCAD is probably the main one, but it's super tedious to use. TBH lack of proper CAD in Linux is what is holding me back from playing with CNC and 3D printing. Maybe I'll write my own program.
@@EEVblog2 this is a good video on how to chose a tool th-cam.com/video/XHzOzxCQ7MU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=gt5RPjPl3TELzHkS I’m sure this chap probably lives just down to road, all is Brits tho you Aussies all know each other ;-)
The only thing you now need is the CAD experience ;-). Welcome to the club. I started just a few weeks ago too. Learning FreeCAD is a bit of PITA, but fine for technical stuff like boxes/cases.
@@EEVblog2You are not alone, there are a lot of people who don't like it (mildly said). Even people who are used to work with CAD. I am still looking for something more better-er.
@@EEVblog2 Second that (tried recently, never again). Problem is you need a Cray (I suspect you have one) to run decent CAD like Fusion360. The other online-only ones are a joke.
Yes, OnShape or Fusion360 are more polished, but I now use FreeCAD for all my stuff I 3D print. Main reason is that it runs on Linux and I can use it without internet. Once you get over the initial learning curve, then its easy. I use just two workbenches - Part Design to build object and Spreadsheet for defining various dimensions. And make sure your sketches are referenced to main coordinates or planes, don't attach sketches to object surfaces.
very nice. Now that you have a pool you will find that a 3D printer is most useful to make seals, hose and pipe adaptors and fix a lot of stuff that breaks due to UV and sunlight exposure (PETG). I use mine to also make conductive sample holders for my electron microscope and all sorts of stuff for the electronics bench (like old Tek knobs, grandkids toys, RC boats for the pool....) I have and old Prusa that still works perfectly but the only upgrade is a tungsten carbide tip extruder. It allows me to print any filament (abrasive and such) without having to change anything. It is really a tool that will see much use, once you have it dialed in.... Now to learn a good CAD to make your own stuff to order. Cheers and happy printing.
Nice Review Dave! I've been thinking about buying one to print custom project boxes for my projects (with custom PCBs). I'd love to see how such project boxes would work out: how easy is it to design something, how much material (costs) they use, and how long it takes to print them. I would think this would be generally of interest and your viewers would be interested in this use-case too. Thanks!
It's crazy how affordable 3D printing is now even at the higher end level. I assume that price was in USD so it's probably a little over a grand, but that's still not bad considering the money you'd save long term with it by making your own parts.
Input shaping meassure vibrations created by print head, then it will calculate and counter the vibrations thrue them motors. So you probably messed the input shaping calculations. You should run it again 😁 and then every time you move the printer you should run it again. P.S accelerometer is there only for input shaping ...
6:44 They forgot to stick the protection tape on the cable. mine was the same. But there was no problem with the display cable. I think they made this mistake in all the latest version products.
@@EEVblog2 You can get the same speed without the accelerometer using the same input shaping maths. (On much more basic machines) There is a calibration print you run and pick the best result and feed that into the settings as nothing changes that stuff unless you make a physical change to the printer(Or move it onto a differently wobbly table) and the sensor is not used except during the calibration. (Got my 10 year old i3 printing close to this speed using only calibration prints.) Having the accelerometer built in means it's fully automatic, so it's a better user experience however. :)
From thingiverse - try a "Kobayashi Fidget Cube - Fat Hinge - Flat" On my ender 3 it comes out pretty much perfect, all of the hinges just take a few turns to loosen up.
Touching the printer (which it told you not to do) during input shaping calibration defeats the point. Input shaping is about software compensation for the resonances of the machine. For that it needs accurate calibration, i.e. no touchy!
I guess using such enormous amounts of 'environmentally friendly' foam for one-time use is not worth considering among manufacturers of products that print plastic? - I don't understand how you can think something like that is great when so many manufacturers are already taking much better approaches to packaging.
The point of packjaging is to protect the product, in that case it's indeed "great". And it's not like they sell these in the millions. Point to another unboxing video that shows a better way to do it.
@@EEVblog2 Most of the foam was inside and the particularly vulnerable vertical edges had no protection whatsoever. Don't get me wrong, of course I also have a plastic keyboard and I don't get any conditions with PTFE (microplastic) in my chain wax on the MTB. ;) Is easy-to-recycle packaging not a thing in Australia? Here in Europe, packaging made largely from folded cardboard with only a thin protective film is common. Here is an example of a small th-cam.com/video/seaHHVgoovU/w-d-xo.html and large th-cam.com/video/LMYfDf77VFc/w-d-xo.html product. Packaging also needs to be well thought out and designed. Do you also have the chicken eggs in a box or in foam? ;-) Just imagine having to store every product packaging on the property yourself. The plants grow in the card boxes and they turn into humus and the mountain of foam outlives your children's children ... ps: btw: creality is thin like a coke can and very shaky. Have you taken a look at QiDI or Bambu? If you don't have to worry about the last dollar and want a good ready-to-use product, these would be your first choice.
The glue stick is used to prevent certain filament types from permanently bonding to the build plate. I'd be suspicious of a printer that didn't include one.
@@rasimbot No source code for ender 7 so build in touch lcd is useless with custom build marlin fw. In this k1 is creality use klipper (community can crack root access). So another GPL violation.
@@Flextro While what you say is true, Creality has commited to open sourcing the firmware since. I had a K1 for about a month, and it was nice. Replaced it with a BambuLab P1S though.
@@EEVblog2 both Marlin and Klipper machine firmware are GPL. So if Creality are using one of those (I haven't checked myself, I assume if people are complaining then they are) they are obligated to distribute the code they use to run the machine to anyone they sell it to.
@@EEVblog yep, the creality is good value. its just that they copied all the buzzword features from bambu but none of them actually work well. it pretends to be a next gen printer.
I'll take open source with some rough edges over closed source, required cloud connectivity and the ability to remotely order my printer to destroy itself. But that's just me.
this video was instrumental in helping me pack up my K1 Max to ship back to creality. Just had to watch in reverse lol My frame was so twisted, it had to have been dropped hard. Kind of bummed, but going to give them one more chance to make it right
@@mikestewart4752 yep! Get that return process started. They will send it very fast BTW. mine came 3 days after they received the damaged one back. new one is printing like a dream, perfect frame. FedEx must have dropped the box hard or something.
I just don't see the market for these things, maybe schools or something but thats about it. For hobby use its to expensive for what it is and for professional use there are better printers available. All kinds of "AI" stuff built in and they use smooth pulleys where you need a toothed pulley to prevent artifacting.😐 The exterior is nice tho and so is the packaging.
Dave, please run the input shaping calibration again because you should not touch the bed/hotend/belts during IS calibration
"Do not touch the printer during the self check" - proceeds to grab hold of the heatbed
yeah, not something you wanna do. during self check it calibrates the input shaper by measuring the impulse response of the movement axes. you wanna repeat this every time you move the printer to a new location (due to resonance of the surface its standing on). and you dont want to touch it to not artificially dampen any of the resonance it is trying to measure.
Get a textured PEI build plate - no messing with glue - prints snap off easily - if you're patient enough to wait for it to cool they literally just fall off.
Thanks, will get one. The glue kinda sucks.
Just found one for the K1 Max and it has "Please apply glue before print" written on the plate.
I just checked, and the standard plate supplied is a PEI build plate.
Glue stick is pretty old school for 3D printing now, you should never need it with modern built plates.
It definitely helps but should never be needed.
Printing quite small footprint stuff you might need the glue stick, but for bigger stuff I found not really required on my Anycubic printer.
That's a nice pro 3D printer there! Well built and looks great, with attention to detail. I'm still mighty impressed how the tech has evolved through a few years since it went mainstream.
They still aren't really the promise of every home would have one to print everything they need.
Got mine today, printing happily ever since. great printer so far
Best Damn install/ review video for the K1 Max yet. Thank you and please make more.
I just bought one of these.
Excellent printer.
For filling the filament, you need to unclip the feed tube and feel a bit of filament through. unlock the lever on top, feed the filament in till it stops, lock the lever then press the tube back into place. Now there is a menu for "extrude/retract". After loading filament run "extrude" and it will prime the print head. To swap filaments, run "retract, and it will retract the filament, and you can reverse the steps you did to add the filament... and swap it out for another/different roll.
Dont touch the bed when calibrating, it will throw the calibration off (pressure transducers on the underside of bed)... your pressure applying glue could have upset it.
These things with creality print's defaults just scream. If you try ABS, selecting the ABS profile and any one of the presets; will just work almost flawlessly. Just be weary of slicing prints that have supports hanging out in the wind; those will tend to fail.... so generate your supports carefully (switching to smaller support sizes so you can get them into the zones so they don't stick out of the model hanging in the wind.
The noise you heard at about 17:30 is harmonic training
Ah, of course, makes sense.
Enjoy, Hope the Noctua fan upgrade is an option.
You don't really need glue especially for PLA and even more so on good printers like this one. Proper bed leveling, bed temp control and good first layer settings can get you excellent first layer sticking without any assistance. And i think your first layer might have broken off because it was too stuck
on cold sheets glue is used to prevent damage to the sheet. pla can stick to it so well that it rips part of the surface off and glue stick serves as a sacrificial layer.
if you want a nice everyday glue free printing surface, PEI is good but does not have the strongest adhesion.
Actually, in this case the glue is being used as a release agent!
I never used glue on my old Makerbot.
The print surface needs glue, especially for some filiments like PETG or they will not release from the bed! USE GLUE!
If it prints like that on a wobbly bench, with it jerking about like an epileptic belly dancer, it should be fantastic on a solid base. You can make the prints extra strong, should the need arise, by coating them in thin superglue, letting it get into the tiny pores and gaps between layers for a couple of seconds, and then squirting with activator. It can make a big difference.
Love this video for your excitement . What a way to stay positive love that
Yep I to waited for printers to reach an unpack and go stage. Nice print job. As said the calibration is tuning the PIDs for the location. Also I read the glue is more to help with release of the print from the bed. And I have found it washes off well in warm water. I wash after each print as it dries out if you layer it and is much harder to remove them. I now can't do without a 3D printer as it is so easy to print Jigs and Mounts for prototypes. Awesome tools for the design shop.
FYI, the bed is mounted on load cells, so don’t touch it, or the print head, when leveling. Also, as others have said, do not touch the printer at all while it is calibrating. Since you did touch it, you need to run Input Shaper again as well. The doors should be closed and filament should be loaded as well.
... Saw a giant knife, heard the accent and just could not stop thinking of Crocodile Dundee reviewing a 3d printer
3D printers make a great companion to electronics as yo can build the customer enclosures for the electronics projects, or use electronics to bring a mode to life. Thing is you find out that it’s actually not the printing that’s the “hobby” it’s the CAD to make the thing you print. These OOTB printers reduce the need to learn loads about the pruning process and get you to the end product s lot quicker. I do love what my Ender thought me about the process, but equally learning CAD (Fusion) was great too.
Yeah, I need to learn a tool...
@@EEVblog2 OnShape, Fusion 360 are the big contenders in terms of Ease-of-Use and complexion nowadays, I believe. There are also things like TinkerCad which have limited featuresets, but are dead simple to use.
I wish Linux had better options for CAD. FreeCAD is probably the main one, but it's super tedious to use. TBH lack of proper
CAD in Linux is what is holding me back from playing with CNC and 3D printing. Maybe I'll write my own program.
@@redsquirrelftw how about Onshape as it’s in the browser so multi platform, th-cam.com/video/XHzOzxCQ7MU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=gt5RPjPl3TELzHkS useful video
@@EEVblog2 this is a good video on how to chose a tool th-cam.com/video/XHzOzxCQ7MU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=gt5RPjPl3TELzHkS I’m sure this chap probably lives just down to road, all is Brits tho you Aussies all know each other ;-)
Awesome unboxing video They build Good printers That thing looks fast
The only thing you now need is the CAD experience ;-). Welcome to the club. I started just a few weeks ago too. Learning FreeCAD is a bit of PITA, but fine for technical stuff like boxes/cases.
I did try FreeCAD once and absolutely hated it.
@@EEVblog2You are not alone, there are a lot of people who don't like it (mildly said). Even people who are used to work with CAD. I am still looking for something more better-er.
@@EEVblog2 Second that (tried recently, never again). Problem is you need a Cray (I suspect you have one) to run decent CAD like Fusion360. The other online-only ones are a joke.
Yes, OnShape or Fusion360 are more polished, but I now use FreeCAD for all my stuff I 3D print. Main reason is that it runs on Linux and I can use it without internet. Once you get over the initial learning curve, then its easy. I use just two workbenches - Part Design to build object and Spreadsheet for defining various dimensions. And make sure your sketches are referenced to main coordinates or planes, don't attach sketches to object surfaces.
very nice.
Now that you have a pool you will find that a 3D printer is most useful to make seals, hose and pipe adaptors and fix a lot of stuff that breaks due to UV and sunlight exposure (PETG).
I use mine to also make conductive sample holders for my electron microscope and all sorts of stuff for the electronics bench (like old Tek knobs, grandkids toys, RC boats for the pool....)
I have and old Prusa that still works perfectly but the only upgrade is a tungsten carbide tip extruder. It allows me to print any filament (abrasive and such) without having to change anything.
It is really a tool that will see much use, once you have it dialed in.... Now to learn a good CAD to make your own stuff to order.
Cheers and happy printing.
Nice Review Dave! I've been thinking about buying one to print custom project boxes for my projects (with custom PCBs). I'd love to see how such project boxes would work out: how easy is it to design something, how much material (costs) they use, and how long it takes to print them. I would think this would be generally of interest and your viewers would be interested in this use-case too.
Thanks!
I love your enthusiasm
It's crazy how affordable 3D printing is now even at the higher end level. I assume that price was in USD so it's probably a little over a grand, but that's still not bad considering the money you'd save long term with it by making your own parts.
Input shaping meassure vibrations created by print head, then it will calculate and counter the vibrations thrue them motors. So you probably messed the input shaping calculations. You should run it again 😁 and then every time you move the printer you should run it again.
P.S accelerometer is there only for input shaping ...
Well you can now print some toys for the new pool!
The handle is not attached because it would be a single point of impact on the door during shipping.
3D printing expert? Uncle Ben Heck!
As a first time watcher from Canada I gotta ask ... Ya got a Donk to go with that knife? Bloody hell...LOL
6:44 They forgot to stick the protection tape on the cable. mine was the same. But there was no problem with the display cable. I think they made this mistake in all the latest version products.
Can't believe the speed of this thing.......I had no idea technology had moved on in that way.
That's what she said.
Yeah, it's super fast. Not possible without all the accelerometer sensor feedback, the print would be a mess otherwise.
@@EEVblog2 You can get the same speed without the accelerometer using the same input shaping maths. (On much more basic machines) There is a calibration print you run and pick the best result and feed that into the settings as nothing changes that stuff unless you make a physical change to the printer(Or move it onto a differently wobbly table) and the sensor is not used except during the calibration. (Got my 10 year old i3 printing close to this speed using only calibration prints.)
Having the accelerometer built in means it's fully automatic, so it's a better user experience however. :)
That is nice tool.
Nice looking printer Dave
I just built a Voron 2.4r2. Kinda tired of proprietary non-upgradeable stuff.
So did I, but I still bought this as well. Sometimes you just want a no nonsense plug and play thing that you don't have to keep fixing
Don't care for the bend in the filament tube as it enters the print head. A bit severe.
Yeah, rather sharp.
I think it looked worse than it is from the cameral angle.
creative labs logo copy?
Kudos, Creality, what a nice attenttion to the little small details Bambu Lab implemented :) But you have still missed few important ones ;)
Nice Dave!
From thingiverse - try a "Kobayashi Fidget Cube - Fat Hinge - Flat"
On my ender 3 it comes out pretty much perfect, all of the hinges just take a few turns to loosen up.
What mailbag was this in?
This is the mailbag.
@@EEVblog2 Oh, where you said "Originally sent into the mailbag segment" made me think it came from another Mailbag video.
@@ElliottVeares Oh, sorry, yeah, that wording wasn't great.
Looks really nice
I haven’t heard such a narrative from someone in a video since the Hindenburg went down
Any electronics box or case your heart desires 👍👍
Digi-Key is out of business.
Just ordered one of these, great review.....I dont do "Cloud Shit" either.....
Did TH-cam abolish About tab from channel pages?
Don't know, but there have been UI changes recently.
Is it possible to set a lower printing speed to reduce wobbling?
Sure, but just put on a stable flat surface instead.
Touching the printer (which it told you not to do) during input shaping calibration defeats the point. Input shaping is about software compensation for the resonances of the machine. For that it needs accurate calibration, i.e. no touchy!
I guess using such enormous amounts of 'environmentally friendly' foam for one-time use is not worth considering among manufacturers of products that print plastic? -
I don't understand how you can think something like that is great when so many manufacturers are already taking much better approaches to packaging.
Go sit on a busy road.
The point of packjaging is to protect the product, in that case it's indeed "great". And it's not like they sell these in the millions. Point to another unboxing video that shows a better way to do it.
Love it @@Okurka.
@@EEVblog2 Most of the foam was inside and the particularly vulnerable vertical edges had no protection whatsoever.
Don't get me wrong, of course I also have a plastic keyboard and I don't get any conditions with PTFE (microplastic) in my chain wax on the MTB. ;)
Is easy-to-recycle packaging not a thing in Australia? Here in Europe, packaging made largely from folded cardboard with only a thin protective film is common.
Here is an example of a small th-cam.com/video/seaHHVgoovU/w-d-xo.html and large th-cam.com/video/LMYfDf77VFc/w-d-xo.html product. Packaging also needs to be well thought out and designed.
Do you also have the chicken eggs in a box or in foam? ;-)
Just imagine having to store every product packaging on the property yourself. The plants grow in the card boxes and they turn into humus and the mountain of foam outlives your children's children ...
ps: btw: creality is thin like a coke can and very shaky. Have you taken a look at QiDI or Bambu? If you don't have to worry about the last dollar and want a good ready-to-use product, these would be your first choice.
Should the qr cloud code be blurred?
It's not blurred, just cloudy!
@@zebo-the-fat 🤣🤣
8:27 from Spatula City? :)
The real question on everyone's mind: Does it accept DaveCAD? :D
very nice
"Alloy" is such an ambiguous term.
They told you not to touch the printer , seriously
this as just gone on sale here for £580 steal
It worries me that they include a glue stick. On a high quality 3D printer that shouldn't be needed...
The glue stick is used to prevent certain filament types from permanently bonding to the build plate. I'd be suspicious of a printer that didn't include one.
that might be true for some filaments, but for your basic pla/abs it shouldn't be needed :)
Creality as usual ignore GPL? No, thanks, no more money from me.
How is it ignored?
How so?
@@rasimbot No source code for ender 7 so build in touch lcd is useless with custom build marlin fw. In this k1 is creality use klipper (community can crack root access). So another GPL violation.
@@Flextro While what you say is true, Creality has commited to open sourcing the firmware since. I had a K1 for about a month, and it was nice. Replaced it with a BambuLab P1S though.
@@EEVblog2 both Marlin and Klipper machine firmware are GPL. So if Creality are using one of those (I haven't checked myself, I assume if people are complaining then they are) they are obligated to distribute the code they use to run the machine to anyone they sell it to.
its not a bad printer but it does not stack up against the bambu x1c it tries to clone. the cloned features are not even close
Almost AU$1000 more and less build volume though.
Creality throw new printer and immediately forget about fix her own old 'sheet'
@@EEVblog yep, the creality is good value. its just that they copied all the buzzword features from bambu but none of them actually work well. it pretends to be a next gen printer.
@@drkastenbrotstill streets ahead of my old makerbot!
I'll take open source with some rough edges over closed source, required cloud connectivity and the ability to remotely order my printer to destroy itself. But that's just me.
The *AI* (wank wank) did not detect that the first layer wasn't going down. Oh well. Nice printer anyway.
Yeah, bit disappointed in that, but it was obvious visually nothing was coming out.
I think the 3D printer was shaking because of your bench.
Hard to tell.
metal ahh case
Loads of peel porn. I just can't deal with it.
facepalm
We get it, you hate america.
this video was instrumental in helping me pack up my K1 Max to ship back to creality. Just had to watch in reverse lol
My frame was so twisted, it had to have been dropped hard. Kind of bummed, but going to give them one more chance to make it right
I think mine is the same… By chance, was your first clue about the twisted frame that the top glass wouldn’t fit in the frame?
I had the same issue, just a week ago. New one is coming tomorrow. Hope I win the Creality lottery this time!
How is your printer now 2 months later?
@@mikestewart4752exactly! There was no right angle anywhere! Are you happy with your replacement now?
@@mikestewart4752
yep! Get that return process started. They will send it very fast BTW. mine came 3 days after they received the damaged one back.
new one is printing like a dream, perfect frame. FedEx must have dropped the box hard or something.
@@Raddekopp I gave up on Creality and re-jiggered it myself. Runs great now
I just don't see the market for these things, maybe schools or something but thats about it.
For hobby use its to expensive for what it is and for professional use there are better printers available.
All kinds of "AI" stuff built in and they use smooth pulleys where you need a toothed pulley to prevent artifacting.😐
The exterior is nice tho and so is the packaging.
You don't need glue Dave the "engineer"?... Hmm! A lot of shit you do is very questionable IMO being a tech 40+yrs.
I never used glue on my original Makerbot.
It's easy to criticize, but where are all the videos on your TH-cam channel?
@@mikebarushok5361 I don't have time to make videos I run a business!