The unit i fixed has a burnout, asked the maintenance about the history of work and said after the 1st burnout repair, the previous hvac tech never came back to replace or do pressure check on the suction line filter dryer, both compressors failed in just 7 years! Chillers are only run during summer months May to September,Both compressor suffered from electrical winding shorts in a 2 week span of each other.
On the suction line is a suction line accumulator that prevents liquid slugged to the compressor. SL accumulator should be replaced with a burn out. worse case scenario put a suction dryer between the accumulator and the compressor. On the Liquid line there is drawn a liquid line receiver that is covered here th-cam.com/video/vjhoiwWZ0wM/w-d-xo.html It doesn't prevent anything, just allows a place for refrigerant to go during pump down.
Ty Thank you for the wonderful videos I'm be coming a way better tech. I all so gave tips to other students on your behalf. Question, I was studying the heap pump circulation, so when running in heat mode- the hot gases travel to the evaporator- when it passes the txv bulb wouldn't that put a strain & open the txv fully- each time there's call for heat? I would love hear what you think. Thanks again.
Yes it would but more importantly the check valve inside the TXV open and let's refrigerant bypass inside. I just cut one open today and will be recording it soon.
I'm going to be changing the compressor on a split system that's been open to the atmosphere for over a year. I'm going to flush the line set with some rx11. But I'm also thinking about installing a suction line dryer because I don't know if there could be acid in the system
Was the system an R22 or 410A? If 420a the POE will have absorbed the moisture (hygroscopic) and converted back to an acid that has lilly already been eating away inside the system. For lineset I prefer using a pig like the hilmor lineset cleaner or supco pipe wiper to clean them. I'm this case your talking a lot of potential contamination. I would use the largest liquid line drier you can possibly get and also the largest suction line drier you can get. over size then! Typically I like my liquid line drier inside. But in their case put both outside. Get a refregerants ball valve for the suction and liquid line. Have the driers installed between the new ball valve and the factory service valve. Come back after 72 Houers and check the pressure drop across the suction drier. If it's out of speck (listed on drier) the close all 4 valves, (recover) refrigerant just at the suction drier and liquid drier and replace them. Pull a vacuum in just that section, open the valves and run it. Keep doing this every on longer than every 72 Houers. Once you no longer have a suction pressure drop take the suction drier out and straight pipe it. Replace the liquid line drier one last time and you should be good. Good luck!
That's good news! Less worry about acid 😁 The best thing would do the driers like I mentioned but you the suction drier doesn't have to be removed. The new compressor should come with POE oil already, just confirm that. If it has mineral oil, drain it and refill with POE before you install it. 407c needs POE but can handle 5% up to 10% mineral oil, so the residuals oil in the lines will not be an issue. Take your time pulling a good deep vacuum and also do your decay test. To ensure its boiling out of the oil. You will likely have to change the vacuum pump oil a few times during the process. Oh forgot to mention, take the liquid line loose at the metering device and back flush it several times. Check the screen before the metering device. If your not intending on returning to change or check the driers put the liquid line drier before the metering device to protect it.
@@love2hvac either I'm going to replace it with a 407c condensing unit or I may just put in BluonsTDX 20. I just bought me a jug of it so I'm anxious to try it
What do I do with a heat pump case? The liquid line I was told to install a bi directional filter, what about the suction line? All suction line filters seem to be one direction only, how do I go about it, with heat pump case? The heat pump is house ac/heat
Suction line filter driers should not be left more than 72 hours per Carrier and Copland. If you have to use one for longer on a heat pump it must be placed in the true suction line after the reversing valve (after the accumulator I'd there is one) and right before the compressor inlet.
low suction pressures high superheat at the compressor. Low head pressure. Since suction line restrictions starve the compressor of refrigerant, the entire mass flow rate of refrigerant will decrease through the system. Evaporator delta T will drop, evaporator TD and Evaporator superheat will be unknown because we don't know true saturation in the evap coil. Condenser TD will be low, probably low subcooling also
So suction filter drier is only necessary when there is a compressor burn out? But i have seen new outdoor condensing unit that comes with suction filter drier included.
The only unit I have seen from factory with a suction line filter drier is Lennox specifically with a rotary compressor because it can't handle any debris whatsoever.
@@harkamagar201 can you provide the model number somi can look into it? Rheem and Ruud are known to use a charge compensator that sometimes gets confused for a suction drier.
They are viable if the flare is done correctly. Bennifits: no oxidation, faster changing, no but paint, and if it's done right no leaks, fewer tools, and no fire hazard which in some places require more permits. I prefer to braze while flowing nitrogen. With nitrogen, also no oxidation, pull the base deep in the joint, and also nice bead around the end I know it will never leak. I've done both. 3rd option is soft solder. Some people swear by it. I despise soft solder because I've had the most leaks I have ever fixed in my entire career were soft solder joints. Fixing solf solder joint is the biggest pain. Soft solder requires flux wich is an acid. I have seen many times acid issues with soft soldered equipment. The installer let the flux get too deep and it traveled in the oil. However, IF it is done correctly it will also hold and no oxidation issues.
TY, How do you flush the evaporator and condenser coils? I was always under the assumption that you can't flush something like rx11 through coils cuz it won't flush it all the way through and will get stuck in the coil. Trying to do a nitrogen flush will just spread the oil to the interior walls of the copper pipe and won't really blow it all out.
You can get a lot out with nitrogen but yes some will be spread on the walls of the of the tubing. you can use RX11 IF it's done the right way. Use nitrogen flush first then the RX11 flush. Then several nitrogen flushes. I personally pull a vacuum on that individual component (evaporator or condenser) to make sure I boil out off of the flush. The big issue with the flush is not getting it back out.
We just left them in if there wasn't any pressure drop or TD. You can't see it from my house was the famous saying around the shop!😅🤣🤣😅 Physchometric tutorial?🤔☕ 🥃🥃🍺🍺🍺🍇🏌🏻♀️ Stay safe. Retired (werk'n) keyboard super tech. Wear your safety glasses.
With the R22 we would leave them and the large commercial canister would always stay. What bothers me is I don't know the why behind 72hrs. Seems like a specific number. There has to be more to this story. I can only chase so many rabbit holes at a time. psychrometrics!! Ohhhhh yes I will be getting there! I'm going to finish out refrigeration cycle fundamentals then will be electrical or phsycrometrics. I haven't decided yet.
I was checking the comments to make sure this was mentioned. 3 angstrom is usually used for removing water from air/coolant/solvent. They might be ones with larger pores to adsorb more quickly.
Thanks!
Thank you Steve, I really Appreciate that!!!!!!!!!!
The unit i fixed has a burnout, asked the maintenance about the history of work and said after the 1st burnout repair, the previous hvac tech never came back to replace or do pressure check on the suction line filter dryer, both compressors failed in just 7 years! Chillers are only run during summer months May to September,Both compressor suffered from electrical winding shorts in a 2 week span of each other.
Hi Ty!
If the compressor burned I think it’s hard to clean inside the coils because the fins are too small to push out the debris.Thank you.🌷
Hello, around minute 11:06 is there a liquid line accumulator? What is trying to prevent?
On the suction line is a suction line accumulator that prevents liquid slugged to the compressor. SL accumulator should be replaced with a burn out. worse case scenario put a suction dryer between the accumulator and the compressor.
On the Liquid line there is drawn a liquid line receiver that is covered here th-cam.com/video/vjhoiwWZ0wM/w-d-xo.html
It doesn't prevent anything, just allows a place for refrigerant to go during pump down.
Ty
Thank you for the wonderful videos
I'm be coming a way better tech. I all so
gave tips to other students on your behalf. Question, I was studying the heap pump circulation, so when running in heat mode- the hot gases travel to the
evaporator- when it passes the txv bulb
wouldn't that put a strain & open the txv
fully- each time there's call for heat?
I would love hear what you think.
Thanks again.
Yes it would but more importantly the check valve inside the TXV open and let's refrigerant bypass inside.
I just cut one open today and will be recording it soon.
PERFECTION UNDERSTANDING.... LEADER.... THANK YOU.... 👍👍👍👍👍
I'm going to be changing the compressor on a split system that's been open to the atmosphere for over a year. I'm going to flush the line set with some rx11. But I'm also thinking about installing a suction line dryer because I don't know if there could be acid in the system
Was the system an R22 or 410A?
If 420a the POE will have absorbed the moisture (hygroscopic) and converted back to an acid that has lilly already been eating away inside the system.
For lineset I prefer using a pig like the hilmor lineset cleaner or supco pipe wiper to clean them.
I'm this case your talking a lot of potential contamination.
I would use the largest liquid line drier you can possibly get and also the largest suction line drier you can get. over size then!
Typically I like my liquid line drier inside. But in their case put both outside. Get a refregerants ball valve for the suction and liquid line.
Have the driers installed between the new ball valve and the factory service valve.
Come back after 72 Houers and check the pressure drop across the suction drier. If it's out of speck (listed on drier) the close all 4 valves, (recover) refrigerant just at the suction drier and liquid drier and replace them. Pull a vacuum in just that section, open the valves and run it.
Keep doing this every on longer than every 72 Houers. Once you no longer have a suction pressure drop take the suction drier out and straight pipe it. Replace the liquid line drier one last time and you should be good.
Good luck!
@@love2hvac it's an r22 system. I'm converting to 407c
That's good news! Less worry about acid 😁
The best thing would do the driers like I mentioned but you the suction drier doesn't have to be removed.
The new compressor should come with POE oil already, just confirm that. If it has mineral oil, drain it and refill with POE before you install it. 407c needs POE but can handle 5% up to 10% mineral oil, so the residuals oil in the lines will not be an issue.
Take your time pulling a good deep vacuum and also do your decay test.
To ensure its boiling out of the oil.
You will likely have to change the vacuum pump oil a few times during the process.
Oh forgot to mention, take the liquid line loose at the metering device and back flush it several times. Check the screen before the metering device.
If your not intending on returning to change or check the driers put the liquid line drier before the metering device to protect it.
@@love2hvac either I'm going to replace it with a 407c condensing unit or I may just put in BluonsTDX 20. I just bought me a jug of it so I'm anxious to try it
I have heard good things about Bluon but I have not tried it myself.
If I had the cash I would do a before and after conversion test.
great job as always Ty thanks!
thanks for educating man 🙌🏽 your a good teacher
Best
What do I do with a heat pump case? The liquid line I was told to install a bi directional filter, what about the suction line?
All suction line filters seem to be one direction only, how do I go about it, with heat pump case?
The heat pump is house ac/heat
Suction line filter driers should not be left more than 72 hours per Carrier and Copland.
If you have to use one for longer on a heat pump it must be placed in the true suction line after the reversing valve (after the accumulator I'd there is one) and right before the compressor inlet.
What are the symptoms of a suction line restriction; on the entire system?
low suction pressures high superheat at the compressor.
Low head pressure. Since suction line restrictions starve the compressor of refrigerant, the entire mass flow rate of refrigerant will decrease through the system.
Evaporator delta T will drop, evaporator TD and
Evaporator superheat will be unknown because we don't know true saturation in the evap coil.
Condenser TD will be low, probably low subcooling also
So suction filter drier is only necessary when there is a compressor burn out? But i have seen new outdoor condensing unit that comes with suction filter drier included.
The only unit I have seen from factory with a suction line filter drier is Lennox specifically with a rotary compressor because it can't handle any debris whatsoever.
I saw in rheem split heat pump system too.@@love2hvac
@@harkamagar201 can you provide the model number somi can look into it?
Rheem and Ruud are known to use a charge compensator that sometimes gets confused for a suction drier.
Are flare type filters viable or prone to leaking?
They are viable if the flare is done correctly.
Bennifits: no oxidation, faster changing, no but paint, and if it's done right no leaks, fewer tools, and no fire hazard which in some places require more permits.
I prefer to braze while flowing nitrogen.
With nitrogen, also no oxidation, pull the base deep in the joint, and also nice bead around the end I know it will never leak.
I've done both.
3rd option is soft solder. Some people swear by it. I despise soft solder because I've had the most leaks I have ever fixed in my entire career were soft solder joints. Fixing solf solder joint is the biggest pain. Soft solder requires flux wich is an acid. I have seen many times acid issues with soft soldered equipment. The installer let the flux get too deep and it traveled in the oil.
However, IF it is done correctly it will also hold and no oxidation issues.
TY,
How do you flush the evaporator and condenser coils? I was always under the assumption that you can't flush something like rx11 through coils cuz it won't flush it all the way through and will get stuck in the coil. Trying to do a nitrogen flush will just spread the oil to the interior walls of the copper pipe and won't really blow it all out.
You can get a lot out with nitrogen but yes some will be spread on the walls of the of the tubing.
you can use RX11 IF it's done the right way. Use nitrogen flush first then the RX11 flush. Then several nitrogen flushes. I personally pull a vacuum on that individual component (evaporator or condenser) to make sure I boil out off of the flush.
The big issue with the flush is not getting it back out.
@@love2hvac thanks man I appreciate it. I love all your videos.
Thank you ❤️
We just left them in if there wasn't any pressure drop or TD.
You can't see it from my house was the famous saying around the shop!😅🤣🤣😅
Physchometric tutorial?🤔☕
🥃🥃🍺🍺🍺🍇🏌🏻♀️
Stay safe.
Retired (werk'n) keyboard super tech. Wear your safety glasses.
With the R22 we would leave them and the large commercial canister would always stay.
What bothers me is I don't know the why behind 72hrs. Seems like a specific number. There has to be more to this story. I can only chase so many rabbit holes at a time.
psychrometrics!! Ohhhhh yes I will be getting there! I'm going to finish out refrigeration cycle fundamentals then will be electrical or phsycrometrics. I haven't decided yet.
@@love2hvac 🥃🍺☕
Molecular sieve , what is the word you were looking for the desiccant BBs
Thank you!
I've heard molecular sieve but I never realized it was the loose bbs. That makes so much sense!
I was checking the comments to make sure this was mentioned. 3 angstrom is usually used for removing water from air/coolant/solvent. They might be ones with larger pores to adsorb more quickly.