Prius HV Battery Module Load Testing - Gen 2-3 ll lll
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ค. 2024
- Diy high voltage prius battery repair fix.
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Awesome and Informative.💯
Ever so often my check lights kept coming on, I did various scans which gave the P0A80 code, the bus bars, nuts and connections were all cleaned but after some time the lights were on again.
I’ve watched this video and because of this, i found four faulty cells(modules).
I replaced them and the car works perfectly. The problem only occurred under heavy loads and when the battery was really low. Some scanning tools wont pick this up. This method is definitely the way to test the integrity of the individual cells. Thanks alot for saving me some money and keep up the good work. 🇹🇹
Thank you for your wonderful lesson. I fixed my Prius C HV batteries using your method. POA80 popped up several times despite replacing all the bus-bars. Cell 9 was the culprit.
did p0a80 go away?
Thank you, I followed this exact process and it made huge difference in rebuild prius battery. I had to use 6 halogen headlight bulbs to create large load. After tested all modules I replaced 13 weak ones and now works excellent.
Which charger you use
Haha perfect, this is the answer I was looking for, I've been using 2 55w halogen bulbs and the voltage doesn't even drop less that 7.5v in any of the cells, even if I've discharged them and charged them at 3900mah which is really low, and it won't drop less than 7.5v even after 10 minutes.
How’s it been??
I don't know if someone mentioned this, but a stop watch with a lap function will record your time between volt levels and you won't have to start/stop/unplug repeat.
Can you explain all that? Not sure I understand how to do that. And I definitely don't know all the start/stop stuff. What's that about?
@@alext8828 your stop watch on the phone has a function called lap, its icon looks like a analogue clock
@@alext8828 I think what he means is that just let the battery drain continuously and record the time taken to reach the desire voltages.
@@agentvip93 Ah, yes. Thanks.
@@Gemuk-man637 Oh, I see. See how long it takes for them to discharge to a minimum. Very good. Excellent explanation. Thank you.
Great video bro... The graft is a fantastic way of seeing the discharge rate...
This is the best video ever i have seen about the hybrid cell especially who has only basic tools on to work with well explained mate thanks a lot
Great video. Just subbed. Almost 100,000 Congratulations!!!!
Highly appreciative video. Thanks.
May 2021: Still great info. Yes, these batteries are generally worthless below 6 volts. Only one bad of 28 cells disabled my gen2. The bad cell had a noticeable blister on the side of the pack.
Nice and informative - was looking for this for my Aqua’s battery pack cell replacement
Thank You! Your video is very helpful. The video quality is superb!!!!
Thank you my friend your video helped me a lot.
instead of hitting stop, just note the time and let it keep going til you hit the next mark, note the time again and let it continue on. This will save an abundance of time !!
Great video, I always wondered how the “reconditioning” places checked their cells as well.
Pack rebuilders would never do something this primitive. They have real Toyota test equipment and a computer display tells the tech what every cell is doing. Though this video does tell you a basic loaded cell state. I do something like this to my Honda Hybrids Gen1. I use a Imax B6 for charging and a Sun battery load tester for discharging. Pretty good video for a DIYer! Great work, Thanks.
your video and explanation is the best. other videos are trash. trust me, ask anyone. 👍
I agree
That’s the proper way to test the NiMh batteries. There are numerous videos where they just measure the open voltage of Prius battery packs. This is measure where ANALOG multimeter is the best as you fast learn to see, if the pack is good or not.
A analog multimeter works better for a quick "load" test of a cell since it has more internal resistance than a digital meter does. But a voltmeter alone is not a good way of checking cells. You need at least a few ohms of resistance too. The resistor will get hot too. That is probably why a lot of people dont like doing a cell check the right way.
hay thank you. could tell me how to charge the battery cell outside of the pack so I can load test them. I know it may be obvious for some but I don't now. how much voltage should I use to charge each battery? and I take it the positive of the charger is connected to the positive of the battery? how long do I charge them for or do I monitor it while charging with a voltmeter in series?
In making this instructional video, you did a bunch of starting and stopping. For all the rest of us, why not just set up a camera to record both the timer and the voltmeter, and then use the video to determine the voltage and time points. You wouldn't need to attempt to connect the load and start the timer simultaneously, or even attempt to coordinate connecting the load at a particular moment in time. Just start and stop the video after you've gone through all the cells you are testing and write down the voltage and time points. Starting and stopping introduces the time between reloading, which brings cell recovery into play. In other words, a longer rest period between loading allows a cell to recover more.
Thanks for this information, I’ll be using it during my test!
Buy battery modules here: amzn.to/2GPzaJq
Helps me out: www.amazon.com/shop/justvlad
Many thanks for your video.
Hi, don't you think its better to do the test at one go? Rather to skip between switching and clipping? I was about to perform such a test just taking readings at certain times.
How long did you charge it, at what rate of amp
Is there a Toyota chart that shows what a new battery's voltage drop should be cross the range?
Thanks for the information.
Are those bad cell good after reconditioning?
Thanks for the video, cheers.
What is the Transformer you used? any specs that will do the job? How to select the correct transformer for this job? Could help to share?
@JV I think going through the cycle of reconditioning battery cells using Hobby charger such as EV Peak will give you idea how good or bad cells are
Thanks for this video
I've got a question; can I directly
refurbish a prius 2G/3G battery with the lithium modules from a prius V (prius + here in Europe with lithium batt)?
Great video! Can you please give a little more details regarding why you used three leads and what other components might serve as a good amp draw?
The reason he is using 3 leads is because of the amount of current going through just one undersized lead would cause it to burn up.. you can use one lead if the wire size is large enough
Thank you for taking the time to explain things this clearly. I am wondering what method you used to charge the battery for testing?
I have a regulated power supply but you can use anything you have to charge them as long as you can monitor the charge.
Make sure whatever charger you use to charge that it is made for NiMh cells! Just "winging it" with any old charger can damage those cells unless you are babysitting them while they are charging! Overcharging can make cells VERY hot!
If you can afford a prolong charger I'd recommend the investment. You can charge the whole pack that way, it includes a light bulb discharger kit for reconditioning and that can be retrofitted to be a single battery cell load tester. I believe pack can be charged out of the car.
@@bigboydrz I just recently spent over $700 for the deluxe Prolong charger and discharger with failed results. As for customer service, forget it. Nine and a half times out of 10 there is no one answering the phone if you are seeking customer support. And their email support on their website always comes up with an error when trying to send once you fill out their form. Word of advice, save your money and go else where.
what's the simplest way to DISCHARGE a module? I put two new modules in my battery pack but they are .2v - .3v higher than the old ones. is that ok? or should I discharge before putting the battery back in the car?
I put little alligator clips on the modules and then onto a light bulb and it smoked the cables!!!
What kind of cables / light bulb or anything do I need for this?
Everyones asking the same question, so I will too.. What are you using to charge the batteries? Any recommendations?
Great Video! Thanks! Big Help!
This is a great video. Can you please give me an Amazon link for that transformer?
Which charger do you use?
which type of transformer do you used
How do you charge them?
What did you use for charging please?
You should measure the time without stopping between measurements. I like the idea with using the transformer as the load instead of a bulb though
Excellent video!
Hi if u work out until 6.5 then that battry no good coz hybride car if the battry go below 6.7 or 6.8 the light comes on nd says check ur hy bride battry pack or system basicly when u take the bettry frm the car same thine u can check all modul nd write down then let the battry cool down 3 hours then after check re reading nd find out which cell reading down that cell bad simple good battry is good battry no matter how many time u cgarge or not nd bad is bad how many time u charge they discharge self that mean that bad battry or bad modul !! Im a write ??
excellent thank you very much, big thumbs up
How do you charge to 8v
Hi, thank you for the video. Ive recently replace my HV battery pack on 3rd gen prius. But im getting 14 km/l on new battery where as i was getting 20 km/l on my old faulty battery. Ive checked all cells on my new battery they all are fine. Any help or advice would be really helpful thanks.. 👍🏼
I would suggest you first check the more mundane automotive items such as tire pressures, brake calipers, and anything else that places a drag on the drivetrain.
Hey I have a 2007 Camry Hybrid and I might need a couple of cells, is there a particular seller you would recommend? One that does load tests not just voltage tests on the cells they sell?
I have the same car any luck?
Can you use a load tester for a 12-volt battery? I have one that does 6v and 12v. I'm thinking the voltages are pretty close, but I don't know what the amperage would do to one of these modules. I wonder if anyone out there knows about this.
Could use it to Ebike battery?
Of they sell online how can I test it
Thanks very much for your time. Can I buy a device for charging and discharging the whole package together? I need your advice please.
I'm looking also. Was tokd today a New Zealand company has a killer charger discharger
That’s what the vehicle does..? If you have the red triangle of death (hybrid battery problem in Toyota) you really do need to identify the individual modules likely causing the problem. It’s rarely the whole pack (34 modules in the Camry) but a few bad modules causing the issue. At the module level you are looking at a nominal 7.2 volts, and a max capacity of 6500 mah (milliamperes hours). As NiMh batteries they respond differently than lead acid or NiCad or Lithium cells. Lots use chargers from the Radio Control hobby as they cater to this type and capacity of battery.
Where can I copy your set up. Awesome info
I have my torque pro app . got a POA80 code on my prius 2012. when driving , all my modules show 15.5 and all go up to 17.8 V. during active driving. is there a way to check and detect a bad cells with torque pro app , not taking out whole battery and load testing it ? when the engine stops ,and AC is on , how fast must the voltage drop ? till what number ? 13 V or lower ? what is the normal drop rate in this case, when AC is on , on neutral with engine off ?
Yes, go to settings then manage extra PIDs/Sensors. Look that up on youtube.
thank you for the knowledge
Good information. So, my Prius C ran out of gas and it's showing me the message " Failed Hybrid System ". So, whenever I see this message I disconnect my 12v battery for a minute and drive until I see the message. So, does this message mean I might have a bad module or is it just a simple error code that can be erased or reset ? Thank you, I subscribed.
Nice! thanks for the info! I'm wondering why no one has started making aftermarket brand new batteries for hybrids and electric cars by now. its been over 20yrs for the hybrid. and 10 for the electric car. why is no one capturing this market!?
Lakario, I'm pretty sure I read that Toyota had an exclusive contract with Panasonic not to sell individual new modules or complete batteries to anyone but Toyota - and Panasonic holds the patent. However, that may change at the 20 year mark.
@@legallyinsane7151 How do places like this then sell a battery module for $60? They don't say if it's new or used. But $60 a cell seems very steep. www.electronautomotive.com/product/toyota-prius-2004-2009-battery-module-2
@@thomastommy9864 It doesn't say if it's Panasonic either.... and people buy them.. I don;t know who..LOL
Thank you so much for this information! I have a question. Can you put Gen 2 batterie module in a 3rd Gen Pack?
Oscar Velazquez yes you can
Yes you can , I actually recharge my sell with a regular, 12 volt car battery! And then load tests it
Mecánico Mobile5 can u tell me more details? that sound like an awesome idea but I need to know how.
Hello Just,
I like where you are going with this: interval load testing. However, I have one suggestion that will save you time and improve the accuracy of the data gathered from your modules. I strongly recommend you use the lap function on your smartphone or invest in an actual stopwatch, one that has a lap/split function. You could take a split as each target voltage is hit, stopping the watch when the last target is hit and disconnecting the load. Then you can use the recall function to review each split later, recording them down on paper, doing away with this disconnect-reconnect nonsense which is a waste of your valuable time. By lowering the labor cost involved in taking the readings, you could actually take more readings, creating a smoother curve. As it is, you are spoiling your data gathering each time you pause to take a reading, giving the modules time to recover between readings. Watching another Prius battery rehab video, "Hybrid Battery Ultimate Guide (Toyota Prius 2nd GEN 2004-2009) DIY," the commentator took a single 1-minute time-based load test, not nearly as revealing as your voltage-based load test. That being stated, he did some discharge capacity testing that you are not. Of course, the proof will be how long your new refurbished packs last. Anyway, if you decide on an actual stopwatch, I can recommend the ULTRAK 495, a stopwatch I have owned for the past eight years.
Finally, please keep us informed of the change in longevity of your Prius battery packs constructed with your improved method. Accordingly, do you have an update? Thanks.
thanks
It is normal that close to 6V the cell will have longer time when the voltage drops. One cell is indeed a set of 6 cells 1.2V and more power it gives when you are close to nominal voltage of the cell so 6...7V.
does anyone know the max amperage rating of these particular cells(modules) as a pack?
6.5A = 6500mA
If I am not mistaken what you are trying to show is you can have good voltage battery but weak under load which is still need to be replaced. Is it right? My next question is if it's necessary to balance battery pack after replacing weak modules? If yes how and what kind of device needed? Thanks
That is correct, the voltage does not indicate true capacity, only load testing will reveal its condition. These batteries do not need balancing. But when putting a new module in make sure it's charged good cause it might throw a tringal if it's initially weak and will take multiple cycles to catch up with the pack. Hope this helps
The Toyota computer has a built in balancing circuit for the pack. Though it is not perfect, it is the best anyone made at the time to keep the cells balanced. Far better than Honda hybrids did, by far! But it is still very good practice to get all the cells in a similar SOC (state of charge) before installing the pack again.
These things need a hard kick in the butt once in a while. I tried being gentle with these cells, 1A C/D. It did help me isolate cells under 4aHr but still had poor performance until I forced them hard. Dr.prius app (not affiliated) has a battery life test function that will hard charge the pack in about a minute and then do a discharge test(AC,lights, heaters etc) over a 15 minute period. At the end it will give you a life capacity percentage. good luck......
Correct me if I’m wrong but Doesn’t the longer time you wrote down (1.22 and 4.40) at 7.0v and 6.5v indicate a battery with high resistance rather than low resistance due to the increased time? I would think a shorter time would indicate a battery with less resistance like battery #1 with .21 seconds.
So in other words, longer time to get to 6.5v means the battery has higher resistance and therefore is a bad battery.
hi bro first of all thank you so much for your videos I've learnt so much from them. I had a question for you how do you charge the cells.
have you bought a charger if you have what type.
I am really interested in it I've started working on hybrid cars a lot after watching your videos
If you don't have charger or a power supply and a load, you can buy an off the shelf solution that does all 3 for you. Something like the SkyRC iMAX B6 (for example) or similar charger/discharger will allow you to charge and discharge the cell. It also allows you to set the upper charge limits (you don't want to overcharge the battery)
Those chargers can chart out the discharge curve via software and have a lot of capability to test the cells, do cell balancing etc.
If you have a cell that appears to suffer from sudden voltage drop off like the Vlad demonstrated in the video (bad cells) those can be caused by voltage depression or memory effect. You can try use something similar to the SkyRc above or equivalent equipment to deep cycle it and see if you recover some capacity and possible make the cell usable again.
This is done by fully charging the cell, discharging it to 0.9V, fully charging it again, discharging it to 0.5V, fully charging it again, discharging it to 0.1V and then fully charging it up again and letting it rest for about 30 minutes.
Hope it helps.
Kartik Sharma v
Why not use the lap counter on your windows 10 computer
In normal operation the prius doesn't let the module voltage drop below about 7.5 so I don't think the time it takes to drop to 6.5 would be relevant. The only time I see them drop really low is when there's a bad module.
How can I charge each cell
I have a Prius 2007 . I have been told by dealer that 2 of my 28 modules are faulty. Can you please let me know what battery module I need to buy? I look at Amazon but I can not see any battery module specific for Prius 2007 (XW20)
you have a gen 2 prius (2004-2009) and it uses this battery: rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dp2380057.m570.l1313.TR9.TRC1.A0.H0.Xgen%2B2%2Bprius%2Bbattery.TRS2%26_nkw%3Dgen%2B2%2Bprius%2Bbattery%26_sacat%3D0&campid=5338271021&toolid=20008
Don't waist your money on that it takes way more to refurbished a hybrid by now is pretty cheap to find a rebuild one for under 800.00 bucks i suggest look one with hight capacity cells pack ready to install.
@@LUIS88123 you didnt give no solution only complaining how about you point people in the right direction instead of complaining
And what happens if i leave the cells for 3-4 weeks after load testing without charging them up again?
Probably a dead cell!
Interesting, I think I will stick with the non-hybrid cars. All that work on the Prius batteries and THEN what if you have a problem with the gas engine?
Jerry Schneider this guy doesn't know what he is doing
Can i give you a pointer? The right way is to check for internal resistance any hight resistance cell is bad after that you need to reconditione back to full capacity each cell and then parallel every cell to bottom balance or top balance wich ever you prefer and thats it, built back and boala. And of course at the beginning at all this any cell with very low voltage under 6.5 is of course is a bad cell no need to mess with it.
Not true. Load testing is the correct way.
No, Its a myth that "top balancing" does any good. As soon as you put the batteries back in series, their own internal resistance and internal balance will determine their capacity. Individual module balancing by a very low rate over-charge is a good thing.. known as equalizing.
Thank you for Share! !!
Could you tell me where can i buy a good cell? ??
My badenes cell is the number 7 do i have to order same OR any cell can be install in the same place.???
Best Regards.
Cells are universal so any cell will work in any order. I had decent luck buying on ebay, amazon also sells them. You never know what you'll get so load test them before installing.
Just Vlad
Thank you !!!
best way change all battery with new one in one time. Replacement bed battery with new partly fix car for very short period of time
Please let us know about the Honda Fit 2014 battery
Your 2014 Fit doesn't come w batteries. They come w lunar roof panels, so they recharge at night!!!
Just Vlad, can I use a 12v LED light bulb to discharge the module?
thanks you very much for the video man. Best regards.
No, unless you like waiting until Doomsdays for the discharge to finish. LoL
Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs) are not a good choice when you're looking to generate a large current flow (high amperage). LEDs are specifically designed to NOT require much current, thereby saving the user from higher electricity bills, etc.
I used a halogen headlight bulb wired so that both the low-beam & high-beam were illuminated simultaneously. This system created around a 2.50A load from the module being tested. It's about half the amperage required by the step-down transformer that used by the creator of this video.
At 2.50A current draw, the average discharge times to target voltages on my HV battery modules were:
8.00V to 7.75V: 1m 24s
7.75V to 7.50V: 3m 47s
7.50V to 7.20V: 9m 16s
7.20V to 7.00V: 47m 17s
7.00V to 6.75V: Testing in progress but expect lengthy interval
6.75V to 6.50V: Testing in progress but expect lengthy interval
Note that one module, #20, started out with a no-load voltage of 6.82V while all the others were around 8.00V, so I immediately suspected module 20 was the culprit causing the DTCs on the instrument panel. When tested, module 20 went from 6.82V to 6.75V in 10s and from 6.75V to 6.50V in 22s. Module 20 is most definitely bad.
So in summary, for your tests you want to look for a DC current draw (amperage) that is fairly high in order to speed up your testing process, otherwise you'll find yourself having to shave a couple week's worth of beard growth waiting for your module voltages to reach their discharge targets. :)
THANK YOU FOR YOUR VIDEO
IS WHAT CAN YOU TELL ME BLOCK 9, BEGINNING TO COUNT FROM ECU (COMPUTER OR DRIVER SIDE TO PASSENGER OR THE CONTRARY, IT OR THE POSITION OF BLOCK 9?
THANK YOU
I TRIED THE TRANSFORMER NOTHING HAPPENED WHAT'S MISSING HERE?
Where can i get a charger to charge each cell?
Hobby RC store. A battery charger/discharger/ balancer
Great video! I have a question, I am going to fix my battery soon and should I do the load test to all the battery modules as well?
That would take forever. Just fix what's bad and be done with it. 99% of the time that's all you need to do.
do you cycle (charge/discharge) the battery pack after?
I had to cycle (charge/discharge) a 6.67 volt module 3 times to get it to hold a ~8 volt charge. I did a load test (lightbulb in parallel with volt meter) for 2 minutes, it only went down to 7.3 v after the third cycle, and returned to 8.08 v (with no load). Thanks Vlad: you da man! :)
@@coolramone how do you discharge and recharge a module
@@nonenone4078 Discharge the module with a flashlight bulb and a wire to reach other side of module, but don't go to zero volts; go down to 5 or 6 volts then recharge to 8 volts. I used a hand sized B&D battery charger 8 - 20v dc connected to module with wires.
Why just one time from 8.2 to 6.5?
if you charge them out side the pack they can swell and you cant reuse them, they will not fit in the pack
If the cells distort they were no good to start with. Too much internal resistance.
Thank you for the video I already subscribed to your chanel and ring that bell 🔔 too
dope! thanks
Has anyone replaced the nickel batteries with lithium?
NOPE AND THERE ISN'T THAT OPTION FOR THIS GEN
I have a battery charger tester, it will discharge at 5amps, and charge at up to 30 amps,
what product??
Actually u could have pressed the mark button on ut timer and not stop the discharging process... because continuous discharge is more acurate and real than giving the module long or shorter breathers
Now buy a charger discharger charge battery with 1.5 amp to full then repeak charge at 0.4 amp until you have full voltage back. Then discharge and recharge. Now load test them.
If they test bad after that let trash eat them. Otherwise save them for next time you take out the battery. Do this with any modules you buy. I am preemptively doing this.
Hi any one tel me why this guy put so many leed on one modul if u can see on ur rite side 2 yellow one red nd plus white , nd left side 1 , black1 green , 1 white , nd bothe nd maltimeter cable why can u explanplzu canuse one cable attch with malti meter !
To handle the current draw for his load. Use one large wire or many small wires. The meter checking voltage pulls very little current.
Your make-shift lashup is interesting and creative, however I use a Carbon Pile battery load tester for discharging modules at 40 A for 4 minutes to see if they are up to snuff. Use a stopwatch to track time accurately. No need to write down much of anything. Just note the resulting time on the module itself for future reference. You really want to test those modules at something like what the car is going to do to the cells. Hybrids in general shove something like 50 to 80 amps at times. Testing at 40 is not a problem for those cells if they are any good to use at all. Also if one should burn up during testing it was not a good cell for the car to have anyway, so no great loss. I cook off at least one in every car I work on these days, especially with the older models. Generally I find something like a 20-30% failure rate anymore for high mileage cars. Also always load test any replacement modules. Quality varies greatly! Put the better modules in the center of the pack since they will degrade faster there, this will help keep the pack balanced longer. A Carbon Pile tester is common to find for about 79 bucks online. Dont be afraid of high Amp draw. Just make sure you are using a decent setup. Your little wires may deal with a few amps but they are far too light for decent reconditioning and load testing.
Mike, how do you recondition the cells? Testing seems straight forward, and I've seen methods for lead-acid cells, but not for these. How do you recondition them?
@@cvmetalworks4594 The method you are looking for is commonly called "deep cycling". Get yourself a charger that can work NiMh cells. Automotive car chargers are not what you need. NiMh only. Then you charge up each module to full (usually a good charger shut off when a NiMh cell is full but sometimes not too) you can tell when a NiMh to totally charged when the surface temp is slightly above room temp. If your charger did not shut off before that then the peak sensitivity is set wrong or the charger is defective.
Once the cells are charged you then discharge them to almost dead. Most good NiMh reconditioning chargers can do this part too, however the D rate is rather slow being limited to 1 amp more or less for most model charger.
An alternative to the NiMh charger/reconditioner is to use a carbon pile battery load tester for discharging. Most shops have one of these to test 12v car batteries. Use it to D each NiMh module steadily at about 20 to 30 amps until the modules show less than 6V under load. What I personally do is look for the modules that can D for 4 or more minutes are 40 amps and stay above 6V. If a module drops quickly below 6v under that 40 amp load it is probably not good enough to use in the car too.
Deep cycling each module a couple times will do some restoring to the capacity but these cells do wear out over time too. oxidation builds up inside on the plates and electrical resistance goes up/ capacity goes down. What I normally see is up to half of the modules in a hybrid car could be worn out and not worth using again in the car. Depends on how the car was driven. Carbon pile load testing will quickly show you which modules are worth keeping.
Do you charge every cell at 9.2 volt?
Emmanuel Egel it does not really matter what you charge it to. I would charge to around 8v and then discharge from there, under 6.5v is where you will know if your modual is good or not.
thanks so much for the video!
what do you measn know under 6.5v is bad? I am discharging to 6.3 is that a bad idea?
When you do the deep discharging for testing make sure you charge them back to 8v pretty quickly after that to avoid long term damage.
I have a 2004 prius im balancing. Some of the batteries are 5000mah, some 6000k but some n the 3kmah range. For the age of this battery pack will the 3500mah ones do okay?
1 have been doing some research, it seems like you can use gen 3 cells in gen 2. But can you use gen 2 cells on gen 3. Mine is a gen 3 from
2010. Most of my cells are above 7v I have 4 that are in bad shape in the low 4v those I am going to replace for sure. However would you recommend to change anything below 7v? I have 4 other cells in 6.6. Please help :) and thank you for your video
Smart but less Repeating plz 😁
I took one out of my prius was at 6.56 when all others are at 7.70 average
How did it go? Car still functioning?
Yep, all is good. The car is being used daily with no issues so far.
@@JustVlads what did you use to charge the battery cell? Regular car battery charger?
Great
Get a Quad CQ3 charger !!! For $150 you could save enough time to go find some lunch!!
It will track all that crap, 4 cells at a time!!!
You have a lot
ha....I skipped forward and then have to rewind as I saw 8.2 first and second reading was 2.05, ....it is the units difference!!.. 8.2 seconds and 2 mins 05 seconds. ...oops!!..got it
wait so did he write the units wrong? 8.2 is 8 seconds but 2.05 is two mins? decimal places matter
You're shorting the battery across the transformer :D HAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHA
It's a 7.2v battery everything over 7.2 volt anything over that is over charge. This is why it doesn't matter.
My average battery is 7.6. where does the 7.2 come in?
I desire I could watched this video before, I just finished load testing a 3gen cell with a H4 (90w) halogen lightbulb and I think I damaged it because I drop the voltage down to 3.5 v after 20 minutes and now is alittle bit inflated.
Wow 🤩 that low wait for how long you had it hooked up heheh did you fully charged each cell?
There’s many ways to do test loads but yeah 12v at 50w load will probably eat all that juice on that 8.2v battery , do you happen to know the Capacity of each individual cell on this battery ?