I waned to Thank Mike & L&M engines for all support & knowledge and allowing me to film everything for everyone! Good luck to those who entered for Bronco ends in 5 days! If you haven’t entered hurry & enter now at stangmode.com
Goes to show you that most people out there selling aftermarket mods for performance cars, especially new platforms don't have a clue and are just trying to take your money like Mike said. Until the car has been out for a few years and people have tested parts/tunes/etc thoroughly, it's. anyone's best guess as to what they will take without burning down. Props for being a pioneer for the GT500 and letting us all watch you blow it up. It's very entertaining, but I am sure it is getting expensive, lol.
You would think that the specs would include the ring specs for proper size. EGT didn’t do that it was detonation. Pure and simple. The ECU increased fuel for heat, I would love to see the last hours of data I bet the fuel was damn near in free spray and timing was backed off.
Mike's knowledge about the cause to help diagnose the real issue why this helped is pretty unreal. But I guess when you do it as long as he has, he's seen a lot. That's a great resource to have.
It doesn’t take a rocket scientist to look at a burnt piston to tell anyone it wasn’t our fault burnt you could even tell by looking at it. In reality I can’t think of any engine builder - not even my company that would warranty a engine built for racing. Not even the parts manufacturers will warranty their own parts wether pistons rods or bearings nothing internal at all. We had some defective rods from a very well known manufacturer that we used in three engine builds. We ate those three engines to keep our reputation because that’s all an engine builder has if they want to stay in business. Thanks
@@keepyourdayjob5658 my response had zero to do with saying someone is at fault. I have blown up enough engines racing that I'm fully aware of it being at your own risk as well. I was just saying that it's pretty impressive to hear Mike point out why something is a problem and what to check to validate what you're actually getting with your supporting systems. The engine builder did a great job building a strong engine. But anytime something is pushed beyond its intent or not protected properly this is a possible outcome. That's the nature of racing. If I lived in the northeast, I would have zero doubt with bringing my build to LMC to get it done. They're much smarter than me with what they do by a long shot.
@@MrCollective wow do you work at lm ? I can say whatever I want that will make it not my fault . Now give me 15k and I’ll build another one that will blow up and not be my fault and I will tell you why again . Never mind that this engine had an issue from day one .
In my opinion the tune killed that engine. The IAT 2 sensor showing that high of Temps should have put that car in limp mode and dumped all the timing. Not just some of it. Hot lapping the car shouldn't be a issue whatsoever.
@@joeyg1170 What happened to Stang Modes engine makes me want to dump my PBD tune and go with Lund but I like my N gauge. If and/or when I go FI I will probably do it anyway.
I love Mikes attitude and honesty…he clearly knows his shit and doesn’t sugarcoat at all. Total transparency on issues like this is priceless…he tells you exactly what needs to be addressed so this doesn’t happen again, that’s rare in this world
This is what I said in the video the engine messed up. L&M owner is correct there is something else going on here. Cause no matter hot lap or anything that car the way it's built the engine should handle the power no problems! At all! The way the temp rises in that little time of WOT there is something else going on making that engine get that hot in 10 second pull. But all the internet mechanics think they know it all with no hp to back it up.
L&M built me a monster for my 14 GT500 and it was tuned by LUND! Lund's tune was all remote and a GM gold key tuner was very impressed with his tune too.
GT500 is a boosted engine. Piston was torched due to it leaning out under boost. I'd check your fueling in the tune. If IAT was high as well, that's also an indicator. That's why stock tunes have overfueling, to protect the cats and keep the pistons from melting down. This is also true of the modern EGR system. Also, why didn't the ECU go into limp mode when it detected sky high IAT's? I'd definitely look at the tune, because I've seen bad tunes roach an engine quick. A friend of mine has an Audi RS3 engine at his shop right now with inspection holes in the block and adjustable connecting rods because of a bad tune. Side note, from this tear down it appears as though cylinder 6 totally melted down and cylinder 1 was on its way. That looks a lot like fuel distribution issues to me. If it was cooling, then all the cylinders would look similar. If the tune checks out, I'd start looking at injectors, and the rest of the fuel system.
The little specks on top of the piston and acetylene hole in number 6 is detonation. Melted pistons are lean condition. put in bigger injectors or bring the boost down.
Mike was dead on also I'd still be talking to the tuner there should of been a safe guard against a temperature rise especially as drastic as Mike pointed out
No tune can compensate for that kind of spike in temperature that fast. That would be like asking a tuner to put a safeguard in place just in case detonation starts occurring. By the time the fail safes would detect the problem and initiate safeguards it's already too late.
The tuner has nothing to do . If it was the tuner all the engine would of exploded . The knock sensors pulled all the timing they needed to save the engine cylinder 6 didn’t handle it happens
@@smurfeco2.358 especially with nitrous. If you race, it's not a matter of if you blow it up but when. He finally had a properly built engine so instead of destroying the block, it only took one Cylinder.
@@f3nixfire You're right.....but 1 of the modern PCM control safeguards to prevent cyl overheating is functional EGR (exhaust gas recirculation). This is used primarily to reduce NOx emissions but it works by maintaining cyl temps at\below 2,500*F to prevent NOx formation but it will also help to prevent what you just saw. Most chasing max power w\ modern control packages usually have to either limit\disable EGR....especially Fords since 05 which use VCT\Tri-VCT to perform this function by retarding cam timing to promote exhaust gas backflow into cylinders during valve overlap during beginning of intake stroke based on the exhaust temp output readings from the front 2 O2\AFR sensors to cool the combustion chambers which will reduce overall max power output (which most don't like) but help to prevent cyl overheating (which most don't understand)....when you do that you are intentionally DEFEATING 1 of the modern PCM control safeguards against potential cyl overheating Fords use so you will HAVE to make up for that by IMPROVING the vehicle's cooling system to remove the excess engine temp generated from the engine cylinder walls\cylinder heads as well as the SC intercooler system to maintain the IAT going into the cylinder chambers as low as feasible then ensure that you NEVER allow the engine HP\TQ output to EXCEED the vehicle's entire system cooling capacity to effectively control the cyl overheat (why exhaust gas temp monitoring systems using probes at the exhaust ports in cylinder heads is important). The engine builder built the engine (including the amount of piston ring gap necessary) according to the customer's HP\TQ desires but the engine builder or even the tuner to a certain extent isn't responsible for ensuring the vehicle's SUPPORTING SYSTEMS are up to par to PROTECT the now non-OEM built engine the vehicle's OEM systems weren't designed for....the OWNER of the vehicle the engine went in is. Obviously the owner didn't ask\inquire either the engine builder or tuner about all this prior to operating the built engine.....the results bear this out & is what the engine builder is having to explain to the owner what & how to do NOW after the DAMAGE has already been done (the tuner also needs to do the same). This is the price of what assuming instead of verifying will cost you in this business when blindly chasing HP\TQ......always test, don't guess! Yeah a lot of folks don't want to hear\accept what I just typed but that's on them....it's still true regardless. No different than testing pump E85 to ensure the alcohol content is proper prior using......
@@dalelockett2619 Abit of a run on comment lol, but still well thought out, nonetheless. I am definitely aware of this. I had an EGR delete on my 2003 Mach 1 that was a built stroker with an Eaton swap (and later a whipple). I learned about the EGR system back then when I asked why we were deleting it. However, we also compensated for the EGR delete by beefing up the cooling system like you said. I did the evenflow cooling mod, something that was needed on the 4.6 4 valves, and I also installed a bigger water pump, intercooler pump and heat exchanger. I chose stuff well over what was needed for the power I was making at the time because I wanted room to grow (even more than was needed for the whipple). Even with the whipple I was able to hot lap the car all day on the strip and IATs were always super happy and I didnt even have an ice tank. Now the question is, did stangmode delete his EGR? I dont know. One thing I can almost be certain of, is that the cooling system was either: 1. Not sufficient for the power he was making. 2. It was, but something failed causing the thermal meltdown. 3. Something failed AND it wasnt sufficient. However, I agree, ive always been a firm believer in overbuilding everything, including the support systems. It's more expensive upfront, but far more economical in the long run.
Good luck with build, need some sweet wins over that bowtie... L&M is providing some education lessons!! Please verify: 1) NITROUS tune (installed after tune) 2) Remote Pump - cavitation (air trapped) 3) Remote Pump - Flow rate 4) Verify Fuel - Ethanol % 5) PBD - Add one or more safeties, if factory ECU is not capable *USE safer tune on street, HERO tune Only on dyno*
I don't watch this channel so maybe someone could explain it for me. Seems the diagnosis was high IAT? How does that happen when you're spraying N2O? I have a 13 GT500 and a Lightning engine BTW. To me, anyways, I would suspect the nitrous systems doesn't have its own fuel supply and they are tapping the main fuel line to supply the nitrous system...and probably just off one side of the fuel rail to do it. They probably have their wideband on the driver side and are tapping the nitrous fuel supply from the passenger side fuel rail...just my guess.
Just like many thought, there was a problem with the inter cooling setup. PBD needs to add some safe guards in the tune should the temps rise rapidly again.
It was down to single digit timing in the log. PBD has plenty of fast as shit stock motor gt500s still running just fine...mine included. Nitrous being sprayed thru a fogger into a blower is a horrible idea...period.
I would be curious to know why other cylinder sleeves have scouring on such a young engine build. I’m thinking the rings and the piston grooves need to be looked at.
You know the man knows his shit when he’s got a well used coffee cup in one hand and a cigarette in the other old school cool spitting out facts and knowing his shit bad ass
On a back to back pass all the ice was gone for sure. I have a hard time keeping ice in it and I ice down the system. Plus the line has a filter. It’s another issue.
@@OnlyFastFords can you use a some kind of screen instead of a filter and use a big lines or use a frozen water bottle or something that will fit in the tank so there is nothing that can get in the filter or in the line and check the pump for load and pressure
Love how he spits the FAX about advertisement about parts and the bullshit numbers companies claim. This is why you cant blaim companies that do this all day everyday and are reputable. Slamming them in comments is rediculous when they know what they know before ppl write stuff. Another thing i always say is the engine is a variant of a coyote but the platform/gt500 is all new and stangmode spends out of pocket to do R&D that usually shops do 1 at a time just to bring awesome content and also let people know what isnt working. He has hid very little from us on this build if any. a lot of people bake the cake and only show you the shit with the frosting on as its being eaten lol knowing that cake taste like shit and had to be redone 10x
I'm blown away at this man's knowledge! I'm running a n Guage only punched it once and it hits hard had to back out I'm thinking I need a longer track or a parachute!
THANKS !!!, I SAID THE SAME THING 1 HOT LAP WITH ALL THOSE SUPPORTING MODS WOULD NOT DO THIS SOMETHING FAILED....OR SOMEONE FAILED ...THIS GUY IS A GENIUS KEEP HIM CLOSE CUZ HES TELLING YOU LIKE IT IS ...
Pump head pressure and flow rate are always tested without restriction for all industries. They cannot give specs for each application due to varying bends, tube size and all other factors that cause flow restriction. When selecting a pump for anything the system's inherent restriction must be accounted for, the pump specs are the staring to point to calculate from.
Did it have any busted coolant lines? All that black on the block I thought man that’s a lot of belt slip but then I got to thinking maybe a coolant line got on a belt blew a line and at wide open it wouldn’t take long to pump out all fluid and over heat.. just a thought
Yeah definitely. No way that motor especially a built one should have blown on one hot lap. If anything it should have either just ran a bit slower or pulled some timing. There are GT500s making the same power as this one on a sbe. I would also get rid of the nitrous and go boost only but also think about getting a different tuner since the motor has already blown twice when you should really still be on sbe. I wish you good luck on the comeback and hope everything goes smooth this time.
SM proves over and over he has no idea what he’s doing and just spits out money to provide content. Well guess what now he’s out of money and he’s bitching at us for not spending money on his crap. This channel is like watching a car wreck happen while the car sits in the driveway.
I always tell my engine builder im broke right before they start an expensive rebuild so they always wonder if i can pay my bill and cut lots of corners
Lol like the French fry basket for all the small parts 🤣. Didn’t Zander mention a couple weeks ago about an intermittent ice tank pump could be the culprit?
And how many channels are running such high hp over the stock motor? C’mon now we know he’s pushing the limits of this motor every time he runs it down the track.
@@6ft3soldier “must don’t”? Lmao. Not only can you not write a proper sentence but you can’t read either. I said “over the stock motor”….meaning not stock. Sad I have to explain my comment to you.
Been saying from beginning the intercooler pump either died or had a problem. Other than that the tune should have been pulling timing agressivly after 150 degrees. It may have been pulling timing but it didn't pull enough fast enough. 200-230 degrees honestly isn't even that hot for e85 with proper timing. All that is compounded with nitrous. I would have a long talk with my tuner.
Hey StangMode. Mike is absolutely right on the cooling issue. Listen to the man! On to the nitrous. Use the direct port plate system instead. It is installed under the intake manifold's runners, sandwiched between the head and intake runners. It's advantage is spot on equal nitrous distribution to all cylinders which is crucial for safety especially on a PD blower engine. And finally the tuner. It's not the tuner's fault. Your tuners are the best in the business. I do recrecommend you looking into employing multiple safeguards . SAFETY FIRST!!!! Please, take my advice. SAFETY FIRST!!!!
With that high coolant/intake temp the car should go to limp mode to prevent engine from blowing. It looks like tuner has remowed safety parameters which is bad and caused the engine blowing again. Good tuner should never get rid of safety parameters from the map. I would change the tuner asap. How come well known tuner can fucked up the mapping like this? Unbelievable...
Not too bad. Double and triple check your ice tank flow maybe a restriction caused this, not enough flow. It never ends! One more thing make sure the old man ashes his cigarette in your engine! I don't think he did that is why this happened! LOL
Bad Things happen in Milliseconds @ 8000 when a sudden lean out occurs. Not much any redundent saftey system could do to save the day. Block looks saveable with a full set of Darton Sleeves. Always a good idea on any highly boosted Coyote. Would be nice if FoMoCo released a stronger 'race' block for the 30-60 psi boost racers.
Bro I love this Channel , and I own two Mopars , that should tell you how good your is.. Enough is enough with the Hulk, put it back to stock I have more interest in that then putting some built engine in it, thats probably gonna blow up again. I would like to see the car put back to stock and make some road trips content.
Department of boost has alot of fantastic info on flow rates , pumps and line sizes. You should definitely take a look. The owner roadraces a blower car and keeps it cool.
Cooling rate sounds like what we run with HVOF, high velocity oxy fuel, 12 gpm with water. I'm kinda shocked cars run close to that with intercoolers, but ive never messed with anything that deep in automotive. Pretty cool stuff.
Like I was thinking before, I knew there was no way it was due to the hot lap. These cars are supposed to be able to run lap after lap going balls out. The ZR1 hot lapped too and is fine. Mike beats the hell out of that car all the time. So the cooling system being the issue makes sense here. It could be some tune related as well, perhaps it wasn't doing what it should have done when the temps started to rise so fast. Someone in past videos said something about that in more detail which I can't recall. Basically the tune allowed the surging temps to cause this to go to failure, despite the fact the cooling system may have issues. The tune should have did something to put an end to it.
Detonation is hard on them I believe he nailed the cause with intake air temps Ive also seen running lean or to much timing cause same result. Awesome video not a lot people share the good and the bad !!
Be an old ex 2 stroke mechanic, I would etch the aluminum off the sleeve with muriatic acid and do some careful measuring before assuming the sleeve is junk.
Great Video! Listen to Mike. Make sure your Tune has all fail safes turned on this time. That motor should have went into limp mode. Just Saying. But hind sight is always 20/20. LOL. Good Luck with this build. Sucks you gotta do it twice.
I know you’ve had a couple rebuilds, this motor with that piston gone bad was on a built motor correct? Was it your first built motor or your second motor?
Said it before and I’ll say it again. Mike is like a wizard with these engines! I’ve had a few conversations with him and I just listen. He spits knowledge! When will you go to Shaun at AED for some tuning and finally get it right?
That is classic detonation evidence on that piston and cylinder wall. Detonation temps are way hotter than normal combustion temps, hence the melted very sad piston and rings, plus very hurt cylinder wall.
I waned to Thank Mike & L&M engines for all support & knowledge and allowing me to film everything for everyone! Good luck to those who entered for Bronco ends in 5 days! If you haven’t entered hurry & enter now at stangmode.com
it broke a ring land not enough ring gap
Goes to show you that most people out there selling aftermarket mods for performance cars, especially new platforms don't have a clue and are just trying to take your money like Mike said. Until the car has been out for a few years and people have tested parts/tunes/etc thoroughly, it's. anyone's best guess as to what they will take without burning down. Props for being a pioneer for the GT500 and letting us all watch you blow it up. It's very entertaining, but I am sure it is getting expensive, lol.
Why not run a methanol kit to bring the egt down when its fully re-build for safety
Awesome video!!
You would think that the specs would include the ring specs for proper size. EGT didn’t do that it was detonation. Pure and simple. The ECU increased fuel for heat, I would love to see the last hours of data I bet the fuel was damn near in free spray and timing was backed off.
Mike's knowledge about the cause to help diagnose the real issue why this helped is pretty unreal. But I guess when you do it as long as he has, he's seen a lot. That's a great resource to have.
It doesn’t take a rocket scientist to look at a burnt piston to tell anyone it wasn’t our fault burnt you could even tell by looking at it. In reality I can’t think of any engine builder - not even my company that would warranty a engine built for racing. Not even the parts manufacturers will warranty their own parts wether pistons rods or bearings nothing internal at all. We had some defective rods from a very well known manufacturer that we used in three engine builds. We ate those three engines to keep our reputation because that’s all an engine builder has if they want to stay in business. Thanks
@@keepyourdayjob5658 That's not a burnt piston that's a broken broken ring land not a enough ring gap
@@keepyourdayjob5658 my response had zero to do with saying someone is at fault. I have blown up enough engines racing that I'm fully aware of it being at your own risk as well. I was just saying that it's pretty impressive to hear Mike point out why something is a problem and what to check to validate what you're actually getting with your supporting systems. The engine builder did a great job building a strong engine. But anytime something is pushed beyond its intent or not protected properly this is a possible outcome. That's the nature of racing. If I lived in the northeast, I would have zero doubt with bringing my build to LMC to get it done. They're much smarter than me with what they do by a long shot.
@@MrCollective wow do you work at lm ? I can say whatever I want that will make it not my fault . Now give me 15k and I’ll build another one that will blow up and not be my fault and I will tell you why again . Never mind that this engine had an issue from day one .
@@mauricecooper176 Wrong, that is a detonation melted piston.
Those guys at L+M are genuine masters of the mod motors …good luck with the rebuild !!!
In my opinion the tune killed that engine. The IAT 2 sensor showing that high of Temps should have put that car in limp mode and dumped all the timing. Not just some of it. Hot lapping the car shouldn't be a issue whatsoever.
PBD baby 😆 🤣 😂 😹
Agreed. He should go with LUND.
I agree 💯
@@joeyg1170 What happened to Stang Modes engine makes me want to dump my PBD tune and go with Lund but I like my N gauge. If and/or when I go FI I will probably do it anyway.
Lund knows their s*** they tuned my boosted Gen2 I have had no problems just Wins!
I love Mikes attitude and honesty…he clearly knows his shit and doesn’t sugarcoat at all. Total transparency on issues like this is priceless…he tells you exactly what needs to be addressed so this doesn’t happen again, that’s rare in this world
Cant replace the experience and analysis of a long experienced veteran builder.
Pure gold knowledge....
Michael at L&M is a true professional. People like him are few and far between and they aren't cheap.
Yep!! Thats an OLD SCHOOL dude right there!! Down to the all day coffee with a smoke!!! They don't make em like that anymore 💪
This is what I said in the video the engine messed up. L&M owner is correct there is something else going on here. Cause no matter hot lap or anything that car the way it's built the engine should handle the power no problems! At all! The way the temp rises in that little time of WOT there is something else going on making that engine get that hot in 10 second pull.
But all the internet mechanics think they know it all with no hp to back it up.
Stangmode is the problem, 2 engines? In a row? When IAT's get high you don't stay in the run.
L&M built me a monster for my 14 GT500 and it was tuned by LUND! Lund's tune was all remote and a GM gold key tuner was very impressed with his tune too.
GT500 is a boosted engine. Piston was torched due to it leaning out under boost. I'd check your fueling in the tune. If IAT was high as well, that's also an indicator. That's why stock tunes have overfueling, to protect the cats and keep the pistons from melting down. This is also true of the modern EGR system. Also, why didn't the ECU go into limp mode when it detected sky high IAT's? I'd definitely look at the tune, because I've seen bad tunes roach an engine quick. A friend of mine has an Audi RS3 engine at his shop right now with inspection holes in the block and adjustable connecting rods because of a bad tune. Side note, from this tear down it appears as though cylinder 6 totally melted down and cylinder 1 was on its way. That looks a lot like fuel distribution issues to me. If it was cooling, then all the cylinders would look similar. If the tune checks out, I'd start looking at injectors, and the rest of the fuel system.
The little specks on top of the piston and acetylene hole in number 6 is detonation. Melted pistons are lean condition. put in bigger injectors or bring the boost down.
Yup, fuel distribution issues for sure.
I wonder what the plugs look like? Power adder without fuel? Did it lean out?
Mike was dead on also I'd still be talking to the tuner there should of been a safe guard against a temperature rise especially as drastic as Mike pointed out
No tune can compensate for that kind of spike in temperature that fast. That would be like asking a tuner to put a safeguard in place just in case detonation starts occurring. By the time the fail safes would detect the problem and initiate safeguards it's already too late.
The tuner has nothing to do . If it was the tuner all the engine would of exploded . The knock sensors pulled all the timing they needed to save the engine cylinder 6 didn’t handle it happens
@@smurfeco2.358 especially with nitrous. If you race, it's not a matter of if you blow it up but when. He finally had a properly built engine so instead of destroying the block, it only took one Cylinder.
@@f3nixfire You're right.....but 1 of the modern PCM control safeguards to prevent cyl overheating is functional EGR (exhaust gas recirculation). This is used primarily to reduce NOx emissions but it works by maintaining cyl temps at\below 2,500*F to prevent NOx formation but it will also help to prevent what you just saw. Most chasing max power w\ modern control packages usually have to either limit\disable EGR....especially Fords since 05 which use VCT\Tri-VCT to perform this function by retarding cam timing to promote exhaust gas backflow into cylinders during valve overlap during beginning of intake stroke based on the exhaust temp output readings from the front 2 O2\AFR sensors to cool the combustion chambers which will reduce overall max power output (which most don't like) but help to prevent cyl overheating (which most don't understand)....when you do that you are intentionally DEFEATING 1 of the modern PCM control safeguards against potential cyl overheating Fords use so you will HAVE to make up for that by IMPROVING the vehicle's cooling system to remove the excess engine temp generated from the engine cylinder walls\cylinder heads as well as the SC intercooler system to maintain the IAT going into the cylinder chambers as low as feasible then ensure that you NEVER allow the engine HP\TQ output to EXCEED the vehicle's entire system cooling capacity to effectively control the cyl overheat (why exhaust gas temp monitoring systems using probes at the exhaust ports in cylinder heads is important). The engine builder built the engine (including the amount of piston ring gap necessary) according to the customer's HP\TQ desires but the engine builder or even the tuner to a certain extent isn't responsible for ensuring the vehicle's SUPPORTING SYSTEMS are up to par to PROTECT the now non-OEM built engine the vehicle's OEM systems weren't designed for....the OWNER of the vehicle the engine went in is. Obviously the owner didn't ask\inquire either the engine builder or tuner about all this prior to operating the built engine.....the results bear this out & is what the engine builder is having to explain to the owner what & how to do NOW after the DAMAGE has already been done (the tuner also needs to do the same). This is the price of what assuming instead of verifying will cost you in this business when blindly chasing HP\TQ......always test, don't guess! Yeah a lot of folks don't want to hear\accept what I just typed but that's on them....it's still true regardless. No different than testing pump E85 to ensure the alcohol content is proper prior using......
@@dalelockett2619 Abit of a run on comment lol, but still well thought out, nonetheless. I am definitely aware of this. I had an EGR delete on my 2003 Mach 1 that was a built stroker with an Eaton swap (and later a whipple). I learned about the EGR system back then when I asked why we were deleting it. However, we also compensated for the EGR delete by beefing up the cooling system like you said. I did the evenflow cooling mod, something that was needed on the 4.6 4 valves, and I also installed a bigger water pump, intercooler pump and heat exchanger. I chose stuff well over what was needed for the power I was making at the time because I wanted room to grow (even more than was needed for the whipple). Even with the whipple I was able to hot lap the car all day on the strip and IATs were always super happy and I didnt even have an ice tank.
Now the question is, did stangmode delete his EGR? I dont know. One thing I can almost be certain of, is that the cooling system was either:
1. Not sufficient for the power he was making.
2. It was, but something failed causing the thermal meltdown.
3. Something failed AND it wasnt sufficient.
However, I agree, ive always been a firm believer in overbuilding everything, including the support systems. It's more expensive upfront, but far more economical in the long run.
Good luck with build, need some sweet wins over that bowtie... L&M is providing some education lessons!! Please verify:
1) NITROUS tune (installed after tune)
2) Remote Pump - cavitation (air trapped)
3) Remote Pump - Flow rate
4) Verify Fuel - Ethanol %
5) PBD - Add one or more safeties, if factory ECU is not capable
*USE safer tune on street, HERO tune Only on dyno*
I don't watch this channel so maybe someone could explain it for me. Seems the diagnosis was high IAT? How does that happen when you're spraying N2O? I have a 13 GT500 and a Lightning engine BTW.
To me, anyways, I would suspect the nitrous systems doesn't have its own fuel supply and they are tapping the main fuel line to supply the nitrous system...and probably just off one side of the fuel rail to do it. They probably have their wideband on the driver side and are tapping the nitrous fuel supply from the passenger side fuel rail...just my guess.
My guess is air in the ice tank line, caused no flow and boom.
Just like many thought, there was a problem with the inter cooling setup.
PBD needs to add some safe guards in the tune should the temps rise rapidly again.
It should have been pulling timing like crazy at those temps. Definitely some intercooler and tune issues.
It was down to single digit timing in the log. PBD has plenty of fast as shit stock motor gt500s still running just fine...mine included. Nitrous being sprayed thru a fogger into a blower is a horrible idea...period.
Wealth of knowledge right there. That’s a man who has real experience
Check those injectors also. #6 looked pretty lean??
Man it was so satisfying hearing old man Mike giving you some truth about that intercooler system. Do not disregard his words!
I would be curious to know why other cylinder sleeves have scouring on such a young engine build. I’m thinking the rings and the piston grooves need to be looked at.
Where did the chunk of piston end up? Bottom of the oil pan hopefully and not bits and pieces swallowed by the oil pump or through the oil passages.
You know the man knows his shit when he’s got a well used coffee cup in one hand and a cigarette in the other old school cool spitting out facts and knowing his shit bad ass
yuuup
I bet that coffee cup could tell a few stories...
My thoughts exactly.
Ha! he hasn't told us the actual reason why the engine self destructed. Lets have less cool dude stuff and more explanation, based on science.
Has the ice melts is it possible it gets trap in the line or pump to restrict water flow
I've always wondered that myself.
On a back to back pass all the ice was gone for sure. I have a hard time keeping ice in it and I ice down the system. Plus the line has a filter. It’s another issue.
@@OnlyFastFords can you use a some kind of screen instead of a filter and use a big lines or use a frozen water bottle or something that will fit in the tank so there is nothing that can get in the filter or in the line and check the pump for load and pressure
@@gregoryjowers3629 it is more like a screen not a filter . It was a hot lap so the Ice was melted for sure.
It looked like there were some valve marks on the #6 piston.
What did the spark plugs look like? How is the timing controlled?what is the ring gap?
Love how he spits the FAX about advertisement about parts and the bullshit numbers companies claim. This is why you cant blaim companies that do this all day everyday and are reputable. Slamming them in comments is rediculous when they know what they know before ppl write stuff. Another thing i always say is the engine is a variant of a coyote but the platform/gt500 is all new and stangmode spends out of pocket to do R&D that usually shops do 1 at a time just to bring awesome content and also let people know what isnt working. He has hid very little from us on this build if any. a lot of people bake the cake and only show you the shit with the frosting on as its being eaten lol knowing that cake taste like shit and had to be redone 10x
@Stangmaster 2 bro that was mean and hysterical at the same time 😂😂💯
Did you just throw up on your keyboard?
FAX lol
I'm blown away at this man's knowledge! I'm running a n Guage only punched it once and it hits hard had to back out I'm thinking I need a longer track or a parachute!
What's the bearings and crank ,oil pump look like metal in oil galleys..
THANKS !!!, I SAID THE SAME THING 1 HOT LAP WITH ALL THOSE SUPPORTING MODS WOULD NOT DO THIS SOMETHING FAILED....OR SOMEONE FAILED ...THIS GUY IS A GENIUS KEEP HIM CLOSE CUZ HES TELLING YOU LIKE IT IS ...
Best Mustang channel on TH-cam. Glad to see you back on the attack brother. Let's go!
Pump head pressure and flow rate are always tested without restriction for all industries. They cannot give specs for each application due to varying bends, tube size and all other factors that cause flow restriction. When selecting a pump for anything the system's inherent restriction must be accounted for, the pump specs are the staring to point to calculate from.
Did it have any busted coolant lines? All that black on the block I thought man that’s a lot of belt slip but then I got to thinking maybe a coolant line got on a belt blew a line and at wide open it wouldn’t take long to pump out all fluid and over heat.. just a thought
So high temperature made the defect in the piston? Or was there a defect in the piston befort it was installed?
So , what failed!? The inner cooler pump?
Mike comes in and tosses out decades of knowledge on what should have been done. Yeah listen to the man and switch tuners for gawdsake.
Yeah definitely. No way that motor especially a built one should have blown on one hot lap. If anything it should have either just ran a bit slower or pulled some timing. There are GT500s making the same power as this one on a sbe. I would also get rid of the nitrous and go boost only but also think about getting a different tuner since the motor has already blown twice when you should really still be on sbe. I wish you good luck on the comeback and hope everything goes smooth this time.
@@itshiho agree 100%
Agreed.
SM proves over and over he has no idea what he’s doing and just spits out money to provide content. Well guess what now he’s out of money and he’s bitching at us for not spending money on his crap. This channel is like watching a car wreck happen while the car sits in the driveway.
@@itshiho do you know who is he currently tuned by?
Why are parts laying on the floor and on crates ?
You can tell the guy working on your car is really good! Hulk will be back stronger than ever!
Not sure what your ice tank setup is, but if you're looking for a high flow pump, check out EMP pumps.
StangMode Great Video I'm glad Hulks Engine isn't badly damaged and I can't wait to see her up and running in a few Weeks
I always tell my engine builder im broke right before they start an expensive rebuild so they always wonder if i can pay my bill and cut lots of corners
They built my 04 Cobra motor L&M all the way . The coffee cup
Lol like the French fry basket for all the small parts 🤣. Didn’t Zander mention a couple weeks ago about an intermittent ice tank pump could be the culprit?
It’s for ultrasonic cleaning... it’s a basket for that. Very common for engine parts.
I'm sorry but you have the fiat of the mustangs 😂😭 I've never seen a mustang go through so many engines! Keep up the videos bro 😎
Fix it again tony
Guess u don't watch itsjusta6 lol
And how many channels are running such high hp over the stock motor? C’mon now we know he’s pushing the limits of this motor every time he runs it down the track.
@@corey1788 you must don't watch his channel, his motor was no where near STOCK!
@@6ft3soldier “must don’t”? Lmao. Not only can you not write a proper sentence but you can’t read either. I said “over the stock motor”….meaning not stock. Sad I have to explain my comment to you.
The comment section on your vids have HIGH entertainment value man 🤣. So many clue less experts commenting its hilarious.
Back in the road in no time, better faster stronger 👍💪
Check those intercooler lines for the ice tank near the headers
Been saying from beginning the intercooler pump either died or had a problem. Other than that the tune should have been pulling timing agressivly after 150 degrees. It may have been pulling timing but it didn't pull enough fast enough. 200-230 degrees honestly isn't even that hot for e85 with proper timing. All that is compounded with nitrous. I would have a long talk with my tuner.
Gotta love Mike, so old school.
Normal coffee cup, cigarette, and shirt tucked in.
Hey StangMode. Mike is absolutely right on the cooling issue. Listen to the man! On to the nitrous. Use the direct port plate system instead. It is installed under the intake manifold's runners, sandwiched between the head and intake runners. It's advantage is spot on equal nitrous distribution to all cylinders which is crucial for safety especially on a PD blower engine. And finally the tuner. It's not the tuner's fault. Your tuners are the best in the business. I do recrecommend you looking into employing multiple safeguards . SAFETY FIRST!!!! Please, take my advice. SAFETY FIRST!!!!
Hey ask l&m to put bigger exhaust and intake valves in the heads while it’s apart
Looks like cylinder temp went way up ,ring end gap came together ,causing melt down.
With that high coolant/intake temp the car should go to limp mode to prevent engine from blowing. It looks like tuner has remowed safety parameters which is bad and caused the engine blowing again. Good tuner should never get rid of safety parameters from the map. I would change the tuner asap. How come well known tuner can fucked up the mapping like this? Unbelievable...
Not too bad. Double and triple check your ice tank flow maybe a restriction caused this, not enough flow. It never ends! One more thing make sure the old man ashes his cigarette in your engine! I don't think he did that is why this happened! LOL
🤣🤣
Those ashes would probably make it faster.
Wow, wow, wow! So sorry for the results , but glad to hear your getting it fixed.
I believe that it's the NOS and pump on your ice box that cause the motor on your GT500 to blown.
Bad Things happen in Milliseconds @ 8000 when a sudden lean out occurs. Not much any redundent saftey system could do to save the day. Block looks saveable with a full set of Darton Sleeves. Always a good idea on any highly boosted Coyote. Would be nice if FoMoCo released a stronger 'race' block for the 30-60 psi boost racers.
L&M is a real engine builder!
Bro I love this Channel , and I own two Mopars , that should tell you how good your is.. Enough is enough with the Hulk, put it back to stock I have more interest in that then putting some built engine in it, thats probably gonna blow up again. I would like to see the car put back to stock and make some road trips content.
Hell yeah can't wait for that beast to be back and running right
Good luck with rebuild. If there was a heat issue , wouldn’t that be in the tune ? And I ask because I have absolutely no idea.
Looking forward to understanding if there were also any misses in the tune and if you go with another Tuner
Is it true that ford has a three launch limit which voids the warranty for these mustangs?
Department of boost has alot of fantastic info on flow rates , pumps and line sizes. You should definitely take a look. The owner roadraces a blower car and keeps it cool.
Thanks for the video! Awesome explanation of the CAC, Fuel flow, and all the Cooling Radiator systems.
Put cams back in just make sure cooling issues are 100 percent and doing what there supposed 2
Cooling rate sounds like what we run with HVOF, high velocity oxy fuel, 12 gpm with water. I'm kinda shocked cars run close to that with intercoolers, but ive never messed with anything that deep in automotive. Pretty cool stuff.
RIP Hulk, you killed Hulk in less than a year, two blow outs. You should sell it.
On a diesel when it has a hole melted in the piston it's because of stuck injector dumping fuel and that engine is direct injected like a diesel
I was also wondering if an injector might have got stuck or something does he have individual egts on this car. But it could have been way worse.
So glad to see you up and working hulk is my dream car I probably will not be able to build my dream so seeing something like it makes me happy
9:30 When the man is in the house all the bullcrap stops
Like I was thinking before, I knew there was no way it was due to the hot lap. These cars are supposed to be able to run lap after lap going balls out. The ZR1 hot lapped too and is fine. Mike beats the hell out of that car all the time. So the cooling system being the issue makes sense here. It could be some tune related as well, perhaps it wasn't doing what it should have done when the temps started to rise so fast. Someone in past videos said something about that in more detail which I can't recall. Basically the tune allowed the surging temps to cause this to go to failure, despite the fact the cooling system may have issues. The tune should have did something to put an end to it.
Put Head studs in it and put the 3.8l whipple and call it good
It is air locking like others have said.. crazy how dependant these cars are on the ice system working
It looks to me like the water pump was smacking the cylinder block with the propeller
Glad you got it fixed -even better than before
Love you guys!! Watch every day!!
Detonation is hard on them I believe he nailed the cause with intake air temps Ive also seen running lean or to much timing cause same result. Awesome video not a lot people share the good and the bad !!
Thanks to you. I learned that no engine can be built bulletproof
What does that cost to repair?
Be an old ex 2 stroke mechanic, I would etch the aluminum off the sleeve with muriatic acid and do some careful measuring before assuming the sleeve is junk.
Was enough heat to melt a huge gap through the piston and the rings. That sleeve is junk..
If I do recall, I thought that built engine was unbreakable and yet here we are lol
Like the titanic
No engine is unbreakable.
Why didn’t they do headstuds over head bolts. Head studs are reusable and can handle more power.
No more nitrous! Get the 3.8L Whipple then see how the L&M cams work with the 3.8 and ported heads, massive air flow!!!!!!
That’s why you don’t turn off engine protection Good Luck your going to need it.
Great Video! Listen to Mike. Make sure your Tune has all fail safes turned on this time. That motor should have went into limp mode. Just Saying. But hind sight is always 20/20. LOL. Good Luck with this build. Sucks you gotta do it twice.
I’m curious are those ARP head bolts?
Does anybody know how many times this car has blown up ?
lost count
Nice, Stangmode it was tweaked
but not as bad as it could have been!!
I can't believe how close the cylinder sleeves are, there's no block between them!
I know you’ve had a couple rebuilds, this motor with that piston gone bad was on a built motor correct? Was it your first built motor or your second motor?
Now you see why and how the manufacturer tests things like cooling sydtems.
Said it before and I’ll say it again. Mike is like a wizard with these engines! I’ve had a few conversations with him and I just listen. He spits knowledge!
When will you go to Shaun at AED for some tuning and finally get it right?
That is classic detonation evidence on that piston and cylinder wall. Detonation temps are way hotter than normal combustion temps, hence the melted very sad piston and rings, plus very hurt cylinder wall.
I seriously learn so much from this channel.
Was the timing covered covered from belt material from a slipping belt? Sorry for your loss man! New sub here!
How do you get that much temp on just one cylinder?
Hmm what keeps happening to you engine bro? I wanted to use them to get pistons but seems like issues with the pistons
I called it. A piston went 💥
So awesome that they really help you out, stangmode is awesome