First thank you for you taking the time with these great videos and sharing your professional unbias firsthand help! simply priceless help. I wanted to also share for those DIYers that are a little handy seeking prevention since youre in there already. Id rather not repeat this often or ever really since the fridge is not in need of replacement. Once everything was fixed before putting the rear inner panel back i didn't have any 10 or 12awg copper wire i used what i had, some 14awg but i doubled it, and power twisted it with drill to make a copper rope, I fashioned about 5.5" long with shepherds hook on one end. Then finally gently clamp the nice shiny copper rope onto the defrost heater pipe as I carefully fed it down the drain hole to heat up during defrost cycles. Hope this helps those that are willing to make this free copper wire prevention should prevent any water from freezing at the drain hole.
Thanks a lot that was quick and simple just the way you wish you could be. After months of suffering with the leaky freezer I have cleaned the old grommet and defrosted the freezer. Easy breezy. Confident now to get the P-trap and fix it for real Thank you
Thanks SamuraiRepairman for the very thorough overview and repair instructions! I'm going to contact Whirlpool for a replacement PTrap and get this frustrating design deficiency corrected.
Thanks for the quick answer, very helpful.First I will call the owner and ask for a second to complete the job. They had the replacement piece, as I told them to order it, after reading about the recall on the net ! But it was the first time the young tech saw it ! He said that thing was inappropriate ...
Thanks. I was able to get the P-trap for free from WP, though it took some convincing. This works just like a toilet. I thought I would just toss the grommet, but then as I was watching your video, I heard, "warm air back in." This was after I had already put everything back together. On second thought, maybe I should use the P-trap after all, so the freezer works as efficiently as designed. Thanks a lot!! Other videos didn't clearly say why the grommet was necessary.
@@TheJoshLangedon't remember exactly. I may have mentioned that the design of the fridge causes problems, so would this part be considered to be covered under warranty.
To remove the existing drain tube - a suggested practice is to press a small latching tab on the bottom of the drain tube then lift it off the 'D shaped' receptacle holder that is part of the drain pan. This requires 2 hands however it ensure that the drain pan will not be cracked - as apparently can happen if one yanks off the drain pipe.
I had some trouble getting the old tube out. Just yanked at it, carefully, until the gray plastic of the tube broke where the small tab connects it to the condenser tray.
Excellent video. Excuse me if this question was addressed earlier ... I have the same problem with a Samsung ... but the 'guts' are different. The drain ices over repeatedly. The ice forms on the bottom. And then water leaks onto the floor. It takes about four months for the cycle to repeat itself. Every time I pull the inside back panel off, and de-ice it. On the back, the drain tube comes straight down from a nipple into the condensate tray. I'm now trying to determine why the drain in the tray repeatedly freezes over ... could it be the fridge isn't level? Or has it something to do with the tube? What else could it be? Is there a "permanent fix" kit for it, like you show in this video? I'd like to fix it just one more time. Thanks.
where do get this part? is there a part number? I'm just now having this issue with my 3 yr old Maytag bottom freezer and want to fix it one and done...
9yr old french door maytag. I started getting ice and water dripping from the left side of the freezer. I noticed the following: 1. I seem to only have this problem when bottom shelf is full. If I only use top shelf for a few days - no problems at all, but after 3 hours of 8 bags of shrimps on the bottom shelf, half of the floor is covered with ice, then water starts dripping on the floor. Last time it was about 1 drip every couple seconds. 2. When I pull left side of the handle, it seems like left side opens a lot more than the right one. by probably a few inches more. is it adjustable, should I adjust it? What's the best way to see if gaskets are tight? I put a bright LED flash light in the freezer at night, don't see the ice coming through. I tired laser thermometer gun around gaskets, temp is within a couple degrees difference. If I stick my finger between freezer door and the refrigerator, I can see a small difference between top and bottom on the right side What lubricant should be used for the freezer door and how should it be applied? It's not too tight, but it feels like it could use some lubricant. Where do I find the grommet for Maytag MFF2558VEB3 ? It looks like there's new "Maytag Refrigerator Drain Pipe" Last question - I don't use ice maker - is it safe to just remove it? Do I need to shut off the water if I remove it or is it in off position when removed? Thanks
I have done this repair and it worked great until 3 weeks later when the coil was still frosting up (we got rid of the ice build-up in the freezer). Now the fridge is running warm and the freezer is at the right temperature. Also, we noticed that the day before the fridge became warm, the unit would make a gurgling sound every time we closed the freezer; no matter how frequently we did it. Which video should I watch next since there seems to be another problem? Thanx!
How do I force the fridge to defrost "turn heater on" so I can test it? Check voltage to make sure the control board is turning on the heater, to melt the ice? is there a secret code? or a switch?
Does anyone know the part number from Whirlpool and/or the best place to order the part from? I want to make sure I am buying the correct thing. Thanks!
How did you pull that old part out like that with out cracking or breaking the drain pan? Lol. Every unit I got on is so fragile and brittle you have to take a micro screw driver and carefully press the tab and wiggle it off.
I installed the Ptrap about 3 months ago, this morning I found ice on the bottom of the freezer again. I took the freezer apart, t and the drain pan all frozen up. once melted, the water drained thru the Ptrap with no problems. What would the next step be in my troubleshooting?
I believe I have. I leveled my fridge, it was a little low on the right, not much, but since I leveled it, and melted all the ice, the drain has been working (about 1 month so far) Good luck....
Hello... no need to disassemble the freezer to clear the drain tube. A cup with hot tap water and patients... does the trick. A lot easier than taking the freezer apart. Having a wet vac handy for excess water is needed until tube is cleared.
For a DIYer fixing their own fridge on their own schedule, this may be an acceptable way to go. But for professional techs with a tight schedule of service calls to keep, we don't have time to wait around. These freezers tear down really easily and quickly so even with the freezer teardown, this entire repair takes about 1/2 hour for an experienced tech.
SamuraiRepairman I find it to be less headache that way... takes me about 45 minutes. Worth it to me. oh well thought Id put it out there. Enjoy your videos very much! Learned alot from you. Invested in one of those CLC tool backpacks after seeing your video... great investment! Take care and have a great weekend!
What would be the next step if the replacement kit does not solve the problem? I installed a new ptrap over a week ago and came home to a puddle of water in front of the fridge and ice in the bottom of freezer today!
Thanks a lot, I always thought that this was a poor design to begin with, interesting how Whirlpool charges $40.00 for this piece. To their credit they did correct their design flaw although they put the cost on to the consumer, but thank-you for your video.
Hi, I fixed my parent's fridge, Maytag MFI2569YEM0, it has that "duck-bill" valve on it... It is making a lot of frost in the freezer AGAIN, will replecing it for that one fix the problem forever?
SamuraiRepairman its not a $12 part---its $23 plus shipping. I am very frustrated as well that Whirlpool will not take care of this issue. It was clearly a poorly made drain.
Last week a tech sent by Whirlpool came and removed the rubber duckbill, but he did not want to install the P-trap, cause he is sure that it will eventually be blocked. He says that all they do is remove the old thing. Is he right ? What is the consequence of air going in the freezer through that small orifice ? Tx
That tech is an idiot. Or maybe he didn’t have the part with him so he just fed you a line a BS, which would make him a liar. He is, sadly, typical of the quality of warranty servicers who work for Whirlpool. Warranty servicers are independent servicers who sign a contract with Whirlpool to fix their factory eff-ups for slave’s wages. Let me explain to you the problem with what he did… The whole point of the duckbill grommet and the P-trap to to let condensate (water) melted off the evaporator coil during defrost drain out of the refrigerator and into the condensate drain pan buy the compressor WITHOUT letting warm, humid air into the freezer compartment through that same opening. With Dumbo having left an open, gaping hole into your freezer, warm humid air now has a free path to the inside of your freezer and can (will) cause numerous problems: temperature control, excessive condensate formation, blocked return ducts, longer compressor run times, etc. You should call Whirlpool and give them the name of the service company who told you this and did this to your fridge. If more people did this, we would eventually weed out these hacks and dumbasses from the trade.
I wonder why they decided to add a trap. Was hot air or odors from the adjacent compressor making it's way back into the freezer? Or perhaps insects or rodents crawling back up?
Good question, spelunkers. The reason is that the lips of the duckbill grommet used before were sticking together, not letting the condesate through to the drain. The result was that the condensate was backing up and causing ice and water leaks from the freezer. For more on this and to see the modification on the old duckbill grommet that was done to address this problem, see this video: th-cam.com/video/fea75FySAQ0/w-d-xo.html
We got the P-Trap installed about a year ago. Today, we again have a sheet of ice on the bottom and water running all over the floor. What now, oh wise Samurai? Just keep dealing with kitchen floods every year? Buy a new fridge not made by Whirlpool? Is there some way I can fix it with a katana perhaps?
Ted, your P-trap may been installed incorrectly. The tight seal underneath the cabinet is crucial to preventing more plugging. It's also the most difficult part of the installation and one that many servicers don't pay enough attention to. You may want to remove the back panel and take a look.
I want to know who is paying for the floor damage from the leak that the original part caused. Obviously Whirlpool admits the issue due to the fact that they added this part.
the grommet is fine, it's the drain hole that freezes inside the freezer. there's a video showing how to fix it with a copper wire to the defrost element
@@TheMissingtime I added the copper wire to mine shortly after I bought the stupid refrigerator. It solved the problem for several years. Today, fridge leaking again. Now, I will try this fix. So thankful for technicians posting to YT!!!!!
+mdesm2005 Yes, I agree. We were (are) still figuring out this whole video thing. I think we’ve got it dialed in a bit better on our more recent videos. We’re not video production people- we’re appliance repair geeks. So we value constructive feedback from concerned viewers like you. Thank you!
Followed your instructions and it fixed the problem, it's been almost 2 months and no leaking. Thanks
First thank you for you taking the time with these great videos and sharing your professional unbias firsthand help! simply priceless help. I wanted to also share for those DIYers that are a little handy seeking prevention since youre in there already. Id rather not repeat this often or ever really since the fridge is not in need of replacement. Once everything was fixed before putting the rear inner panel back i didn't have any 10 or 12awg copper wire i used what i had, some 14awg but i doubled it, and power twisted it with drill to make a copper rope, I fashioned about 5.5" long with shepherds hook on one end. Then finally gently clamp the nice shiny copper rope onto the defrost heater pipe as I carefully fed it down the drain hole to heat up during defrost cycles. Hope this helps those that are willing to make this free copper wire prevention should prevent any water from freezing at the drain hole.
Thanks a lot that was quick and simple just the way you wish you could be. After months of suffering with the leaky freezer I have cleaned the old grommet and defrosted the freezer. Easy breezy. Confident now to get the P-trap and fix it for real Thank you
John James Thanks for watching, John!
Thanks SamuraiRepairman for the very thorough overview and repair instructions! I'm going to contact Whirlpool for a replacement PTrap and get this frustrating design deficiency corrected.
I have to say THANK YOU. Your video was concise and helpful. It avoided a hefty service bill. $25 later and my freezer is fixed. Great instructions
Thanks for the quick answer, very helpful.First I will call the owner and ask for a second to complete the job. They had the replacement piece, as I told them to order it, after reading about the recall on the net ! But it was the first time the young tech saw it ! He said that thing was inappropriate ...
Thanks. I was able to get the P-trap for free from WP, though it took some convincing. This works just like a toilet. I thought I would just toss the grommet, but then as I was watching your video, I heard, "warm air back in." This was after I had already put everything back together. On second thought, maybe I should use the P-trap after all, so the freezer works as efficiently as designed. Thanks a lot!! Other videos didn't clearly say why the grommet was necessary.
How did you convince them? Any tips?
@@TheJoshLangedon't remember exactly. I may have mentioned that the design of the fridge causes problems, so would this part be considered to be covered under warranty.
Exactly the video and fix I needed. Thanks!
To remove the existing drain tube - a suggested practice is to press a small latching tab on the bottom of the drain tube then lift it off the 'D shaped' receptacle holder that is part of the drain pan. This requires 2 hands however it ensure that the drain pan will not be cracked - as apparently can happen if one yanks off the drain pipe.
This is an excellent point, careh1! Yes, those condensate pans are vulnerable to cracking. Thanks for adding that valuable comment!
Thanks for this video. Helped alot me out alot!
As usual, nice video Samurai!!! Thanks for sharing!
Domo, Brad!
Would you recommend the P-trap over cutting a notch in the grommet as recommended in your previous video?
I had some trouble getting the old tube out. Just yanked at it, carefully, until the gray plastic of the tube broke where the small tab connects it to the condenser tray.
Excellent video.
Excuse me if this question was addressed earlier ...
I have the same problem with a Samsung ... but the 'guts' are different.
The drain ices over repeatedly. The ice forms on the bottom. And then water leaks onto the floor. It takes about four months for the cycle to repeat itself.
Every time I pull the inside back panel off, and de-ice it. On the back, the drain tube comes straight down from a nipple into the condensate tray.
I'm now trying to determine why the drain in the tray repeatedly freezes over ... could it be the fridge isn't level? Or has it something to do with the tube? What else could it be? Is there a "permanent fix" kit for it, like you show in this video? I'd like to fix it just one more time.
Thanks.
where do get this part? is there a part number? I'm just now having this issue with my 3 yr old Maytag bottom freezer and want to fix it one and done...
9yr old french door maytag. I started getting ice and water dripping from the left side of the freezer.
I noticed the following:
1. I seem to only have this problem when bottom shelf is full. If I only use top shelf for a few days - no problems at all, but after 3 hours of 8 bags of shrimps on the bottom shelf, half of the floor is covered with ice, then water starts dripping on the floor. Last time it was about 1 drip every couple seconds.
2. When I pull left side of the handle, it seems like left side opens a lot more than the right one. by probably a few inches more.
is it adjustable, should I adjust it?
What's the best way to see if gaskets are tight?
I put a bright LED flash light in the freezer at night, don't see the ice coming through.
I tired laser thermometer gun around gaskets, temp is within a couple degrees difference.
If I stick my finger between freezer door and the refrigerator, I can see a small difference between top and bottom on the right side
What lubricant should be used for the freezer door and how should it be applied? It's not too tight, but it feels like it could use some lubricant.
Where do I find the grommet for Maytag MFF2558VEB3 ? It looks like there's new "Maytag Refrigerator Drain Pipe"
Last question - I don't use ice maker - is it safe to just remove it? Do I need to shut off the water if I remove it or is it in off position when removed?
Thanks
I have done this repair and it worked great until 3 weeks later when the coil was still frosting up (we got rid of the ice build-up in the freezer). Now the fridge is running warm and the freezer is at the right temperature. Also, we noticed that the day before the fridge became warm, the unit would make a gurgling sound every time we closed the freezer; no matter how frequently we did it. Which video should I watch next since there seems to be another problem? Thanx!
The control board that regulates the defrost cycling is likely broken...
How do I force the fridge to defrost "turn heater on" so I can test it? Check voltage to make sure the control board is turning on the heater, to melt the ice? is there a secret code? or a switch?
danielmpr Get the tech sheet from behind the toe grill and follow the procedure for putting the control into forced defrost mode.
SamuraiRepairman Hi, checked that just now, nothing there!, It's a Maytag MF12569YEM
Does anyone know the part number from Whirlpool and/or the best place to order the part from? I want to make sure I am buying the correct thing. Thanks!
How did you pull that old part out like that with out cracking or breaking the drain pan? Lol. Every unit I got on is so fragile and brittle you have to take a micro screw driver and carefully press the tab and wiggle it off.
I installed the Ptrap about 3 months ago, this morning I found ice on the bottom of the freezer again. I took the freezer apart, t and the drain pan all frozen up. once melted, the water drained thru the Ptrap with no problems.
What would the next step be in my troubleshooting?
Min is doing this also after replacing. Did you figure it out?
I believe I have. I leveled my fridge, it was a little low on the right, not much, but since I leveled it, and melted all the ice, the drain has been working (about 1 month so far) Good luck....
Hello... no need to disassemble the freezer to clear the drain tube. A cup with hot tap water and patients... does the trick. A lot easier than taking the freezer apart. Having a wet vac handy for excess water is needed until tube is cleared.
For a DIYer fixing their own fridge on their own schedule, this may be an acceptable way to go. But for professional techs with a tight schedule of service calls to keep, we don't have time to wait around. These freezers tear down really easily and quickly so even with the freezer teardown, this entire repair takes about 1/2 hour for an experienced tech.
SamuraiRepairman I find it to be less headache that way... takes me about 45 minutes. Worth it to me. oh well thought Id put it out there. Enjoy your videos very much! Learned alot from you. Invested in one of those CLC tool backpacks after seeing your video... great investment! Take care and have a great weekend!
tea642007 Thanks for watching, tea. Happy 4th to you!
do what?
What would be the next step if the replacement kit does not solve the problem? I installed a new ptrap over a week ago and came home to a puddle of water in front of the fridge and ice in the bottom of freezer today!
Damn. Did you figure out a back up option?
Do you personally watch the video you make?
Thank you!
Thanks a lot, I always thought that this was a poor design to begin with, interesting how Whirlpool charges $40.00 for this piece. To their credit they did correct their design flaw although they put the cost on to the consumer, but thank-you for your video.
How do i disassemble the drain hose on a lg ltc22350ss refrigerator
Amazon has the exact part and is charging about $10.
Hi, I fixed my parent's fridge, Maytag MFI2569YEM0, it has that "duck-bill" valve on it... It is making a lot of frost in the freezer AGAIN, will replecing it for that one fix the problem forever?
danielmpr Yes, installing the P-trap will fix the problem permanently.
when the water drains when does it dry
Do you know if Whirlpool warrants this as a recall replacement? Or do they force the owner to upgrade their fix out of pocket?
xIntoThePitx They will graciously pay for the $12 part but the owner must pay for the repair. It SHOULD be a recall.
SamuraiRepairman its not a $12 part---its $23 plus shipping. I am very frustrated as well that Whirlpool will not take care of this issue. It was clearly a poorly made drain.
$12... $25... the point is that the part cost is an insignificant cost of the total repair cost if you had to hire someone to do this for you.
I agree. Which is why I thanked you for the video in a previous post. Still doesn't excuse Whirlpools shitty response to a production issue.
Last week a tech sent by Whirlpool came and removed the rubber duckbill, but he did not want to install the P-trap, cause he is sure that it will eventually be blocked. He says that all they do is remove the old thing. Is he right ? What is the consequence of air going in the freezer through that small orifice ? Tx
That tech is an idiot. Or maybe he didn’t have the part with him so he just fed you a line a BS, which would make him a liar. He is, sadly, typical of the quality of warranty servicers who work for Whirlpool. Warranty servicers are independent servicers who sign a contract with Whirlpool to fix their factory eff-ups for slave’s wages. Let me explain to you the problem with what he did…
The whole point of the duckbill grommet and the P-trap to to let condensate (water) melted off the evaporator coil during defrost drain out of the refrigerator and into the condensate drain pan buy the compressor WITHOUT letting warm, humid air into the freezer compartment through that same opening. With Dumbo having left an open, gaping hole into your freezer, warm humid air now has a free path to the inside of your freezer and can (will) cause numerous problems: temperature control, excessive condensate formation, blocked return ducts, longer compressor run times, etc.
You should call Whirlpool and give them the name of the service company who told you this and did this to your fridge. If more people did this, we would eventually weed out these hacks and dumbasses from the trade.
I wonder why they decided to add a trap. Was hot air or odors from the adjacent compressor making it's way back into the freezer? Or perhaps insects or rodents crawling back up?
Good question, spelunkers. The reason is that the lips of the duckbill grommet used before were sticking together, not letting the condesate through to the drain. The result was that the condensate was backing up and causing ice and water leaks from the freezer. For more on this and to see the modification on the old duckbill grommet that was done to address this problem, see this video: th-cam.com/video/fea75FySAQ0/w-d-xo.html
We got the P-Trap installed about a year ago. Today, we again have a sheet of ice on the bottom and water running all over the floor. What now, oh wise Samurai? Just keep dealing with kitchen floods every year? Buy a new fridge not made by Whirlpool? Is there some way I can fix it with a katana perhaps?
Ted, your P-trap may been installed incorrectly. The tight seal underneath the cabinet is crucial to preventing more plugging. It's also the most difficult part of the installation and one that many servicers don't pay enough attention to. You may want to remove the back panel and take a look.
What's so special about the grommet?? Does it prevent air from getting up into the system? That doesn't seem to be a problem for the original design.
I installed this and my fridge still leaks. Idk what to do now.
I want to know who is paying for the floor damage from the leak that the original part caused. Obviously Whirlpool admits the issue due to the fact that they added this part.
Obviously the servicer gets stuck with the bill because they were the last one to touch it so, by definition, they broke it. ;)
the grommet is fine, it's the drain hole that freezes inside the freezer. there's a video showing how to fix it with a copper wire to the defrost element
@@TheMissingtime I added the copper wire to mine shortly after I bought the stupid refrigerator. It solved the problem for several years. Today, fridge leaking again. Now, I will try this fix. So thankful for technicians posting to YT!!!!!
@@lorip1435 clean the grommet. I threw mine away, don't do that.
@@TheMissingtime I bought the replacement part and installed it. So far, so good.
Your into music is MUCH louder than the rest of the video
+mdesm2005 Yes, I agree. We were (are) still figuring out this whole video thing. I think we’ve got it dialed in a bit better on our more recent videos. We’re not video production people- we’re appliance repair geeks. So we value constructive feedback from concerned viewers like you. Thank you!