Torque Specs: Rearward control arm bushing bolt: 103 ft-lbs Both front facing control arm bolts: 148 ft-lbs Right side engine mount bracket (the 3 bolts): 40 ft-lbs Engine mount nut (either side): 73 ft-lbs That may help someone. God bless.
Probably so but torque specs are very important. Once you see the damage that's caused by a bolt coming loose because it wasn't torqued properly, you will understand why things are tightened usine a certain number of ft-lbs and not "ugga duggas". @@nme5238
I just went for an oil change and the mechanic diagnosed a bad control arm on my sienna. Quoted me $2150 for a replacement on the passenger side. The part itself cost $75 online and it can be done by an amateur mechanic wannabe like me in about 2-3 hours MAX. I suggest everyone out there start to learn how to turn some wrenches and stop getting RIPPED OFF
The issue with taking to a shop is they are going to charge you the job rate. Technically Toyota recommends to remove the front subframe to do this job and the job rate for hours reflects that and that's what a shop is going to charge. From videos on TH-cam..there ways around that like what I did. Like you said, just need the right tools and some decent mechanical common sense and you can do this job. Glad you found this video and hope it helps.
$2150!? Just last week (August, 2024) I got a $875 ($475 for labor and $400 for parts) bid to replace both LCA in my Sienna and it was expensive enough for me so I decided to start my diy plan. But yeah, do they have to rip people off, convenience is a very expensive luxury. Plus, they have a ton of spending to keep their shop open and staffed.
Not sure if Anyone will read this but you can double nut the transmission mount upper stud and remove it completely, so you won't have to pry the mount out at all.
I did this job last month. When raising the engine, the air intake duct came off the throttle body without me noticing. This causes the car to start and immediately die because the mass flow meter won't be able to measure airflow. The car didn't throw any DTCs. Just a heads up. Thanks for your video. It helped.
@@WeTubesYou Thanks for the comment and thanks for giving your tip a out the intake. I didn't have that issue but I can definitely see that happening if you lifted the motor higher than I did. I am happy this video helped you out. 😎👍
That impact driver tool is powerful! I thought it was pneumatic until it was shown complete in the video, I need one of those. Good video, will look for more in your channel.
I did this once on an awd. The transfer case makes it harder to get to if you're a diy'er. But ultimately, this video got me through the toyotas with the 3.6
Great video! Helped tremendously. Additional thoughts - a ball joint separator is handy (available for loan from many car parts stores - I found one that worked at AutoZone). Also, don't overlook the "control arm stoppers" that are on the tabs (? The pair of inner bolts under the mounts) - move them from your old LCAs to the new. One per side. I missed that.
Couple hacks to add to the video. 1 When putting the mount back in, use clamps to compress last little bit. 2 I used a cut off saw to take an 1/8 " off of the top bolt. Once i did that it popped back together fairly easily.
I heard it hit at highway speeds when i let off the gas to slow down, also vibration at highway speeds, tires balenced many times. Play in the steering wheel while parked. Tie rod ends original i think and very squeky. Ball joints new but they did not change the arms. As you said below they remove the subframe at the stealership, if they did i trust they tightened it properly. I am buying oem parts this time, but not from that stealership but a different one much cheaper. I also bought new bolts and nuts as the bolts might be shot. I did hit a pothole at 55 mph on the left side a few years ago. The cover on the strut blew off to the side of the road (replaced and strut and bearing). The left front blew out a bubble one hour after the incident. Made it home two rims were shot, Replaced all 4 tires they has 5/32" left. road force balence and still have the shake. Much less now but its still there. let me know what you think.
Thanks for this. Like others, I was quoted 13 hours from Wheel Works for this job (both sides). It seems very excessive. Then they want to charge $100 per hour as well. I imagine an experienced mechanic would finish this in a few hours, maybe 4 or 5 max.
Depending if you have the right tools and are mechanically inclined, you can knock out this job in 2 hours. Other factors like if the vehicle has rust or like the ball joints are stubborn to get loose, maybe a little longer. I did both sides removed and replaced in an hour 1/2. 13 hours is the going rate for this job by certified mechanics in the industry. Most will get this job done much sooner and the rest of the "labor hours" is easy money for them. Not saying all mechanics are crooks, I understand they need to put food on their plate, but you also too.
That’s because the factory manual says to R&R the eng/trans to do the job. A good mechanic can do it in less than an hour after getting the vehicle off the ground.
You have to remember mechanics don’t actually make good money. The shop takes in a lot of the profit. I don’t think most mechanics even make 100k a year. For the the schooling and tools they are getting ripped off
@@jamminsavan1440 When the bushings fail it will throw off the toe settings and can cause that wear. I hope you replacing the LCAs resolves your issues.
@@davidperry6886 I'm about to do both front LCA's on my sienna and I googled the mounts for the sienna and the studs are indeed removable. You just need to double nut on to the stud and just back it out. It's just one really long piece. I confirmed it with some old forums posts for 3rd gen siennas.
@@stevepham8443 Well, I did both recently after watching a few videos. I can affirm that the passenger side doesn't require extreme jacking of the engine; just hold it in place as that mount is bolted to the side of the engine (I have a 2013). The driver side, I just bit the bullet and kept jacking the trans until I wasn't comfortable any more against the firewall. At that point it really did just take a small amount of effort with a crow to barely lift the trans off the mount. No issues, and the actual drivers LCA was a piece of cake. Getting the passenger side one out was a bear; it took me a full day to get the ball joint separated...
Define 'fedangle'. I just did my passenger side (actually I am fighting a frozen castle nut that I am having to cut off, but I separated the ball joint and the control arm and already pulled the control arm, so its just a matter of getting the ball joint out at this point.) Next is driver's side, 220K.
The hardest part is getting enough room to lift that transmission mount bracket from that mount stud. Like what I did in the video...slightly lifting the transmission gives you just enough room with help from a crowbar to lift it off the mount stud. The reason this job is expensive from Toyota is because Toyota FSM technique is to drop the whole front subframe to replace the lower control arms.
Took my car to Toyota dealership today for a simple oil change and was told my whole front suspension was shot. Quoted me almost $4,000. I am PISSED TO HIGH HEAVEN!!! My friend and I are going yo buy all OEM parts and do it ourselves. Screw this!!!
@@ricardoyoung2008 Unfortunately the dealer or most repair shops will charge about the same. The FSM has the whole front subframe to be dropped to repair the LCAs. The majority of the cost is the labor rate rather than the actual parts.
Unfortunately that sounds about right. They are quoting that price because Toyotas method of replacing the lower control arms is removing the whole front crossmember.
@@Crashd2600 If they need replacement...Yes. my sway bar links, tie rods and lower ball joints were replaced 10k miles prior to when I replaced the LCA's, so they were still in great shape
Will this technique work with an AWD Sienna. I have a 2011, want to make sure the drive shaft to the rear whels doesn't interfere with lifting the engine/transmission. Thanks for the great video!
I would like to say yes...the only difference is the AWD Siennas have a transfer case but that doesn't affect how the suspension is mounted. Like I said in the video it will take some effort but you can lift enough to get that motor mount out. Thank you for watching and commenting and hope you're able to get it done. 👍
I am assuming you replace the whole lower control arm, not just the bushings. Also should I replace the motor mount and tranny mount why I’m doing this job.
Yes..I replaced the whole lower control arm. I used Moog Problem solver series as they are supposedly better quality. So far no issues and they fit like OEM. Inspect your mounts if they need to be replaced. Mine were fine as they showed no signs of failure or about to fail.
thank you for the video. I replaced both lower control arms without the ball joints. wheel rim is scrapping the lower control frame when turning wheel all the way on both sides. what to do?
@@HectorDiaz-og5cj I am not sure why your wheels would be running after installing the new arms unless something wasn't installed right or the LCAs are wrong.
You're welcome..glad it helped😎. The Sienna drove straight afterwards but I still did an alignment. Fortunately it was still within factory specs so I didn't get charged. It's recommended to get an alignment, there are multiple factors that can throw an individual vehicle's alignment off.
When you do the passenger side you will have to support the motor when you remove that engine mount. For the driver's side like in this video I supported the transmission on the body since the pan of the trans mount is smaller.
TBH...the Toyota LCA failed around 100k which I would expect an aftermarket part to fail, and IMO that's pretty pathetic. I installed MOOG aftermarket LCAs and they are holding up just fine and alot cheaper than OEM.
@@itsaboutfam Yes, OEM parts are super expensive. I keep going back and forth (in my head) about oem or after market for these two pieces. The dealership stated on the paper that these two parts are critical to be replaced. And I have 183k miles on my van. I don't want to buy a new vehicle at this time so I keep wondering about the cost and the van's lifetime....
I stripped the 2 bolts that 1 of them goes under the mount. That nut is not coming off it’s inside the frame. Is there a way to just make a new threat on the old nut and buy new bolt?
Is the stud for the mount stripped or is it spinning along with the nut? If it's stripped you can either rethread it with a tap and die set with a new nut or replace the whole mount. If it's spinning along with the nut then the stud on the mount got loose or broke which I am pretty surprised it would. That I couldn't help you with and you will have to figure out a way to keep that stuff from moving.
In the video I mentioned to lift the transmission on the case body of it, NOT the transmission pan. You can see where I placed the jack on the transmission.
What brand you replace the lower control with? I think we may need to do our as well. Aftermarket or OEM. You think Moog is a good brand. You mentioned you replace the ball joint and it was the OEM. But i am limited on money and i think Moog are decent enough.
Well the fact that it's common that the OEM bushings fail at such low miles doesn't give me confidence they are worth their price. Moog QC has been 50/50 since now they have multiple distribution centers all over the world and their QC has suffered. I went ahead and gave them a shot and so far no issues. As far as the ball joints...IF you can go OEM though I would, but again it's a 50/50 chance the Moog will be quality.
I was quoted $2600 to replace both driver and passenger side control arms in my 2014 Sienna. $600 for parts and $2000 for labor. That labor cost sounds insane to me. Are they scamming me?
The parts prices are about right if it's original Toyota equipment. If they're aftermarket, that price is too high. For the labor rate it is high but it's not far-fetched It's near the ballpark range. I went shop around to get a better price. Now if you have some time and some mechanical knowledge and some tools you can do the job for me. It took me about an hour and a half to do both sides on my van.
The way the manual reads you take the engine out. Reason for crazy price and labor. But as we all see that’s not necessary. Just wanted to clarify why the quotes are so huge. Also if you unbolt the front mount you can get that extra lift ya need. 🤙🏼
Unfortunately I don't have those numbers. I should invest in a Sienna FSM in the future. I have been working on vehicles for awhile so I have developed an instinct of when it's "right enough" 😎.
@@SuperNoelhernandez If you're using hand tool...usually once you tighten to where you can't tighten with normal force. A good 1/4 or 1/2 turn with more force will be tight enough. With power tools, same general concept but you will have to make sure not to overtighten or you can break the bolt.
That seems to be around the ball park price unfortunately. I am not sure how many hours it calls for them to change the lower arm, but usually it's $120+ per hour labor. I believe when I was researching how to replace it, Toyota supposedly drops the whole front subframe down to replace the arms. It makes sense BUT not really necessary as I didn't have to do that.
@@itsaboutfam Yes, that's what I wanted to confirm. My Sienna has 225k miles, and the control arm bushings are shot. There are eBay control arm sets selling for under $70 shipped, but I doubt if the ball joints are any better than the ones already in my car.
@@itsaboutfam Thank you. I just got a set of eBay motor mounts and Rock Auto control arm: Delphi p/n TC6012 & TC5900 with lifetime warranty. I'm going to cross my fingers the ball joints and mounts are no worse than the ones on the car.
Ay boss, I’m trying to the exact same procedure as you but I can’t get the old transmission Mount out, the transmission simply won’t go any further up, any idea what I could be missing ? Btw it’s the awd version sienna
You tried to lift the transmission from it's casing as high as you can? You might be able to lift it a bit more by disconnecting the upper "dog bone" motor mount. It does take some effort to get it out but it should eventually come out.
You could but earlier in the video I mentioned that I reply the ball joints prior and they didn't have to be replaced. It was easier to just leave it on and undo the 3 bolts rather than remove the castle nut from the top. If you have to replace the lower ball joint, then yes you would have to remove the castle nut.
Replaced both lower control arms and both transmission and motor mount on my 2011 sienna,everything went smooth but when i started the car it started vibrating now and when i press the gas pedal engine makes a loud noise like growling,has anyone had this issue before?
@@itsaboutfam air intake hose had become undone/came off of throttle body but i put it back together but the growling still remains when i accelerate,engine work just fine on idle but as soon i as press on gas pedal growling and vibrating on the steering wheel continues! Checked the sensor,hose everything looks good,just cant figure out what is going on,even took it to a auto mechanic they said everything looks ok!
Depending on your mechanical ability and having the tools...it can be done I much less time. I did both sides in about an hour 1/2. Mind you I have experience with replacing suspension components and also I didn't have to deal with other factors like rust or previous poor quality work another person did.
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Torque Specs:
Rearward control arm bushing bolt:
103 ft-lbs
Both front facing control arm bolts:
148 ft-lbs
Right side engine mount bracket (the 3 bolts):
40 ft-lbs
Engine mount nut (either side):
73 ft-lbs
That may help someone. God bless.
2 ugga duggas with impact and u should be fine 😅
Probably so but torque specs are very important. Once you see the damage that's caused by a bolt coming loose because it wasn't torqued properly, you will understand why things are tightened usine a certain number of ft-lbs and not "ugga duggas". @@nme5238
Awesome! I'm going to try this tomorrow and your info arrived just in time!
I just went for an oil change and the mechanic diagnosed a bad control arm on my sienna. Quoted me $2150 for a replacement on the passenger side. The part itself cost $75 online and it can be done by an amateur mechanic wannabe like me in about 2-3 hours MAX. I suggest everyone out there start to learn how to turn some wrenches and stop getting RIPPED OFF
The issue with taking to a shop is they are going to charge you the job rate. Technically Toyota recommends to remove the front subframe to do this job and the job rate for hours reflects that and that's what a shop is going to charge.
From videos on TH-cam..there ways around that like what I did. Like you said, just need the right tools and some decent mechanical common sense and you can do this job.
Glad you found this video and hope it helps.
Search youtube , another guy took out the passenger side lower control arm in 5 minutes.
$2150!? Just last week (August, 2024) I got a $875 ($475 for labor and $400 for parts) bid to replace both LCA in my Sienna and it was expensive enough for me so I decided to start my diy plan. But yeah, do they have to rip people off, convenience is a very expensive luxury. Plus, they have a ton of spending to keep their shop open and staffed.
Not sure if Anyone will read this but you can double nut the transmission mount upper stud and remove it completely, so you won't have to pry the mount out at all.
do you know the size/thread on that nut? assuming you still need to support the transmission?
Helped me out! Thanks
Can you explain this like im an idiot?
@@Crashd2600 th-cam.com/video/y5d5rnKZN4A/w-d-xo.htmlsi=AmaUFW05fycOxHSw
Watch how he does double nut in this video
I did this job last month. When raising the engine, the air intake duct came off the throttle body without me noticing. This causes the car to start and immediately die because the mass flow meter won't be able to measure airflow. The car didn't throw any DTCs. Just a heads up.
Thanks for your video. It helped.
@@WeTubesYou Thanks for the comment and thanks for giving your tip a out the intake. I didn't have that issue but I can definitely see that happening if you lifted the motor higher than I did. I am happy this video helped you out. 😎👍
I have to do the same thing this weekend on my Highlander and as I can see it's almost identical. I will save a lot of time thanks to you!
You're welcome...happy the video helps you out. Good luck!
That impact driver tool is powerful! I thought it was pneumatic until it was shown complete in the video, I need one of those. Good video, will look for more in your channel.
Thank you for commenting. The impact gun is pretty good considering it's an older model from Ryobi. They have even stronger models that are brushless.
Thanks man!!,this video made my life a lot easier, replacing those parts on wife's Sienna
You're welcome ..glad this video helped you😎
I did this once on an awd. The transfer case makes it harder to get to if you're a diy'er. But ultimately, this video got me through the toyotas with the 3.6
😎👍
Great video! Helped tremendously. Additional thoughts - a ball joint separator is handy (available for loan from many car parts stores - I found one that worked at AutoZone). Also, don't overlook the "control arm stoppers" that are on the tabs (? The pair of inner bolts under the mounts) - move them from your old LCAs to the new. One per side. I missed that.
I am happy the video helped you out😎👍. Great additional input, hopefully others see it.
Couple hacks to add to the video. 1 When putting the mount back in, use clamps to compress last little bit. 2 I used a cut off saw to take an 1/8 " off of the top bolt. Once i did that it popped back together fairly easily.
Thank you for the hack idea.... hopefully someone that watches the video and sees this helps them.
That really helped!
I heard it hit at highway speeds when i let off the gas to slow down, also vibration at highway speeds, tires balenced many times. Play in the steering wheel while parked. Tie rod ends original i think and very squeky. Ball joints new but they did not change the arms. As you said below they remove the subframe at the stealership, if they did i trust they tightened it properly. I am buying oem parts this time, but not from that stealership but a different one much cheaper. I also bought new bolts and nuts as the bolts might be shot.
I did hit a pothole at 55 mph on the left side a few years ago. The cover on the strut blew off to the side of the road (replaced and strut and bearing). The left front blew out a bubble one hour after the incident. Made it home two rims were shot, Replaced all 4 tires they has 5/32" left. road force balence and still have the shake. Much less now but its still there.
let me know what you think.
Thanks for this. Like others, I was quoted 13 hours from Wheel Works for this job (both sides). It seems very excessive. Then they want to charge $100 per hour as well. I imagine an experienced mechanic would finish this in a few hours, maybe 4 or 5 max.
Depending if you have the right tools and are mechanically inclined, you can knock out this job in 2 hours. Other factors like if the vehicle has rust or like the ball joints are stubborn to get loose, maybe a little longer. I did both sides removed and replaced in an hour 1/2. 13 hours is the going rate for this job by certified mechanics in the industry. Most will get this job done much sooner and the rest of the "labor hours" is easy money for them. Not saying all mechanics are crooks, I understand they need to put food on their plate, but you also too.
That’s because the factory manual says to R&R the eng/trans to do the job. A good mechanic can do it in less than an hour after getting the vehicle off the ground.
You have to remember mechanics don’t actually make good money. The shop takes in a lot of the profit. I don’t think most mechanics even make 100k a year. For the the schooling and tools they are getting ripped off
Great video..at toyota dealership 1,250 for both sides toyota sienna 2017. Stated about 2 hrs to replace.
I am glad the video helped you out. You can save a good amount of money.
Bro, I was just quoted by a Toyota dealership for $4 grand for both sides. Yes $4 grand. Yikes!
The bushings were also included with that quote.
Thanks. You know what the book time for this is? 8.8 hours. The manual says to drop the frame. Thanks
Book time for it at Toyota Canada is 7.4. How tf is your book time higher when we have wayy more rust to deal with.
AllData (NoData lmao) told me 10.7 hours. No way in hell am I telling a customer the entire drivetrain has to be removed to replace a control arm 😂
My tires are wearing on the outside so it's either my lower ball joint or LCA bushing going bad..replacing both today!
@@jamminsavan1440 When the bushings fail it will throw off the toe settings and can cause that wear. I hope you replacing the LCAs resolves your issues.
@@itsaboutfam do u normally get an alignment after replacing the lca?
@@jamminsavan1440 I would highly recommend getting an alignment after doing this job.
Great video and very details explaining. Thank you for sharing
You're welcome
the transmission mount upper bolt part unscrews, very easy to remove - no need to pry bar it out
what do you mean it unscrews? You can unscrew the top bolt out of the mount with no issues?
@@davidperry6886 I'm about to do both front LCA's on my sienna and I googled the mounts for the sienna and the studs are indeed removable. You just need to double nut on to the stud and just back it out. It's just one really long piece. I confirmed it with some old forums posts for 3rd gen siennas.
@@stevepham8443 Well, I did both recently after watching a few videos. I can affirm that the passenger side doesn't require extreme jacking of the engine; just hold it in place as that mount is bolted to the side of the engine (I have a 2013). The driver side, I just bit the bullet and kept jacking the trans until I wasn't comfortable any more against the firewall. At that point it really did just take a small amount of effort with a crow to barely lift the trans off the mount. No issues, and the actual drivers LCA was a piece of cake. Getting the passenger side one out was a bear; it took me a full day to get the ball joint separated...
Define 'fedangle'. I just did my passenger side (actually I am fighting a frozen castle nut that I am having to cut off, but I separated the ball joint and the control arm and already pulled the control arm, so its just a matter of getting the ball joint out at this point.) Next is driver's side, 220K.
The hardest part is getting enough room to lift that transmission mount bracket from that mount stud. Like what I did in the video...slightly lifting the transmission gives you just enough room with help from a crowbar to lift it off the mount stud.
The reason this job is expensive from Toyota is because Toyota FSM technique is to drop the whole front subframe to replace the lower control arms.
Thanks a world bro.
I work for Toyota and they said $800 for parts and $1000 for labor based on $65 an hour employee discount
Took my car to Toyota dealership today for a simple oil change and was told my whole front suspension was shot. Quoted me almost $4,000. I am PISSED TO HIGH HEAVEN!!! My friend and I are going yo buy all OEM parts and do it ourselves. Screw this!!!
@@ricardoyoung2008 Unfortunately the dealer or most repair shops will charge about the same. The FSM has the whole front subframe to be dropped to repair the LCAs.
The majority of the cost is the labor rate rather than the actual parts.
Lady friend just took her Sienna to Toyota for an oil change. Told her she needed lower control arms and was quoted 3700.
Unfortunately that sounds about right. They are quoting that price because Toyotas method of replacing the lower control arms is removing the whole front crossmember.
Great video! I am about to do this same job
Thank you. I am glad this video is able to help you out to repair your Sienna.
Good video and well explained, what impact did you use of how many lbs to remove the nuts from the arm?
I used an older Ryobi 1/2 inch impact gun. I don't know how much force used to remove the bolts but it didn't have an issue removing them.
if you replace the control arm should you also replace the sway bar links and tie rods?
@@Crashd2600 If they need replacement...Yes. my sway bar links, tie rods and lower ball joints were replaced 10k miles prior to when I replaced the LCA's, so they were still in great shape
Will this technique work with an AWD Sienna. I have a 2011, want to make sure the drive shaft to the rear whels doesn't interfere with lifting the engine/transmission. Thanks for the great video!
I would like to say yes...the only difference is the AWD Siennas have a transfer case but that doesn't affect how the suspension is mounted. Like I said in the video it will take some effort but you can lift enough to get that motor mount out.
Thank you for watching and commenting and hope you're able to get it done. 👍
I am assuming you replace the whole lower control arm, not just the bushings. Also should I replace the motor mount and tranny mount why I’m doing this job.
Yes..I replaced the whole lower control arm. I used Moog Problem solver series as they are supposedly better quality. So far no issues and they fit like OEM. Inspect your mounts if they need to be replaced. Mine were fine as they showed no signs of failure or about to fail.
thank you for the video. I replaced both lower control arms without the ball joints. wheel rim is scrapping the lower control frame when turning wheel all the way on both sides. what to do?
I am trying to understand what you meant you installed new lower control arms without ball joints?
yes, the old ball joints were still good
@@HectorDiaz-og5cj I am not sure why your wheels would be running after installing the new arms unless something wasn't installed right or the LCAs are wrong.
Very good tutorial. Thank you!
Thank you 👍
There's another video here somewhere on youtube shown a shop that removed in less than 10 minutes.
If you can remove the LCA in less than 10 mins...more power to you.
Thanks for posting. Did you need an alignment after this? or was everything still good?
You're welcome..glad it helped😎. The Sienna drove straight afterwards but I still did an alignment. Fortunately it was still within factory specs so I didn't get charged.
It's recommended to get an alignment, there are multiple factors that can throw an individual vehicle's alignment off.
you dont neeed anything under the oil pan to support the engine while taking the engine mount out?
When you do the passenger side you will have to support the motor when you remove that engine mount.
For the driver's side like in this video I supported the transmission on the body since the pan of the trans mount is smaller.
Is it worth it to get toyota parts or generic brands would suffice? Thanks
TBH...the Toyota LCA failed around 100k which I would expect an aftermarket part to fail, and IMO that's pretty pathetic. I installed MOOG aftermarket LCAs and they are holding up just fine and alot cheaper than OEM.
@@itsaboutfam Yes, OEM parts are super expensive. I keep going back and forth (in my head) about oem or after market for these two pieces. The dealership stated on the paper that these two parts are critical to be replaced. And I have 183k miles on my van. I don't want to buy a new vehicle at this time so I keep wondering about the cost and the van's lifetime....
I stripped the 2 bolts that 1 of them goes under the mount. That nut is not coming off it’s inside the frame. Is there a way to just make a new threat on the old nut and buy new bolt?
Is the stud for the mount stripped or is it spinning along with the nut? If it's stripped you can either rethread it with a tap and die set with a new nut or replace the whole mount.
If it's spinning along with the nut then the stud on the mount got loose or broke which I am pretty surprised it would. That I couldn't help you with and you will have to figure out a way to keep that stuff from moving.
How long did your aftermarket control arms last for?
They are still holding up fine. I am using Moog lower control arms. I last inspected them a couple months ago...the bushings still look good.
Would it damage the transmission if lifted up with a jack?
In the video I mentioned to lift the transmission on the case body of it, NOT the transmission pan. You can see where I placed the jack on the transmission.
What brand you replace the lower control with? I think we may need to do our as well. Aftermarket or OEM. You think Moog is a good brand. You mentioned you replace the ball joint and it was the OEM. But i am limited on money and i think Moog are decent enough.
Well the fact that it's common that the OEM bushings fail at such low miles doesn't give me confidence they are worth their price. Moog QC has been 50/50 since now they have multiple distribution centers all over the world and their QC has suffered. I went ahead and gave them a shot and so far no issues. As far as the ball joints...IF you can go OEM though I would, but again it's a 50/50 chance the Moog will be quality.
@@itsaboutfam hmm. Man you making it tough on me on deciding the best LCA. Might go check RockAuto out for other brand.
@@DSPNWtoCali Dorman is a brand I would probably trust..their stuff is pretty decent. Rockauto sells them, I believe they are $20-30 more than Moog.
I was quoted $2600 to replace both driver and passenger side control arms in my 2014 Sienna. $600 for parts and $2000 for labor. That labor cost sounds insane to me. Are they scamming me?
The parts prices are about right if it's original Toyota equipment. If they're aftermarket, that price is too high. For the labor rate it is high but it's not far-fetched It's near the ballpark range. I went shop around to get a better price. Now if you have some time and some mechanical knowledge and some tools you can do the job for me. It took me about an hour and a half to do both sides on my van.
It pays 10.4 hours to replace both control arms
The way the manual reads you take the engine out. Reason for crazy price and labor. But as we all see that’s not necessary. Just wanted to clarify why the quotes are so huge. Also if you unbolt the front mount you can get that extra lift ya need. 🤙🏼
Do you think you can just do the passenger side by jacking it up like you did with the drivers side or do you still need to remove the mount bracket?
No because the mount on the driver's side is completely different.
@@itsaboutfam so the mount also has to be removed ?
Thanks for the great video, I have a question do you know the torque specs?
Unfortunately I don't have those numbers. I should invest in a Sienna FSM in the future. I have been working on vehicles for awhile so I have developed an instinct of when it's "right enough" 😎.
@@itsaboutfam thanks a lot I appreciate the information
@@SuperNoelhernandez If you're using hand tool...usually once you tighten to where you can't tighten with normal force. A good 1/4 or 1/2 turn with more force will be tight enough.
With power tools, same general concept but you will have to make sure not to overtighten or you can break the bolt.
@@itsaboutfam thanks so much
Good job 👍👍👍
Thanks.
Toyota quoted me $2700 for a front lower arm replacement. Is that too much?
That seems to be around the ball park price unfortunately. I am not sure how many hours it calls for them to change the lower arm, but usually it's $120+ per hour labor. I believe when I was researching how to replace it, Toyota supposedly drops the whole front subframe down to replace the arms. It makes sense BUT not really necessary as I didn't have to do that.
Do you have to torque any nut or bolts after replacing rca?
If you look in the comments...Someone provided the torque specs of various bolts when doing the job.
My 2016 went bad on 65k miles
Where did you buy the front Lip?
@@orlandooropeza2305 eBay
THANK YOU!!!👍
You're welcome...glad it helped you out.
*_FYI PENSKY TOYOTA OF DOWNEY QUOTED ME ABOUT $7,200 TO REPLACE BOTH L.C.A ON MY 2013 SIENNA!! THIEFS!!_* 🤬🤬
$7200?!? I don't even know if they really expected a customer to pay for something like that for replacing control arms.
Why did you remove the Moog ball joints? are the Toyota ones better?
OEM Toyota ball joints are superior and in the video I mentioned I replaced them several months prior as they were still good.
@@itsaboutfam Yes, that's what I wanted to confirm. My Sienna has 225k miles, and the control arm bushings are shot. There are eBay control arm sets selling for under $70 shipped, but I doubt if the ball joints are any better than the ones already in my car.
What do you think about replacing the motor and tranny mounts with eBay parts at the same time?
@@RxRau-kg9ot with that mileage, it wouldn't hurt especially if they shows signs of wear.
@@itsaboutfam Thank you. I just got a set of eBay motor mounts and Rock Auto control arm: Delphi p/n TC6012 & TC5900 with lifetime warranty. I'm going to cross my fingers the ball joints and mounts are no worse than the ones on the car.
Nice montero
Thanks 😅
Tyvm
You're welcome 😎👍
Ay boss, I’m trying to the exact same procedure as you but I can’t get the old transmission Mount out, the transmission simply won’t go any further up, any idea what I could be missing ? Btw it’s the awd version sienna
You tried to lift the transmission from it's casing as high as you can? You might be able to lift it a bit more by disconnecting the upper "dog bone" motor mount. It does take some effort to get it out but it should eventually come out.
Why wouldn't you just separate the arm from the ball joint
You could but earlier in the video I mentioned that I reply the ball joints prior and they didn't have to be replaced. It was easier to just leave it on and undo the 3 bolts rather than remove the castle nut from the top. If you have to replace the lower ball joint, then yes you would have to remove the castle nut.
Replaced both lower control arms and both transmission and motor mount on my 2011 sienna,everything went smooth but when i started the car it started vibrating now and when i press the gas pedal engine makes a loud noise like growling,has anyone had this issue before?
Have you checked maybe you got something loose? Maybe you accidentally knocked a connector plug off to something?
@@itsaboutfam air intake hose had become undone/came off of throttle body but i put it back together but the growling still remains when i accelerate,engine work just fine on idle but as soon i as press on gas pedal growling and vibrating on the steering wheel continues! Checked the sensor,hose everything looks good,just cant figure out what is going on,even took it to a auto mechanic they said everything looks ok!
What tool sizes did you use if you can please put it In chat thank you
In the video I mention each size for each bolt as I remove the driver's side LCA.
i was quoted based on 10 hours for both lca is that correct ?
Depending on your mechanical ability and having the tools...it can be done I much less time. I did both sides in about an hour 1/2. Mind you I have experience with replacing suspension components and also I didn't have to deal with other factors like rust or previous poor quality work another person did.
It took me 10 hours just to change one side using basic hand tools. I need to remove a lot of screws. It's a big job.
Where so you buy lower control arm 🤔
I bought them from Rockauto.com
Is not help for me too many cut and missed 😢
Anyone know why I'm hearing metal on metal after doing this?
Because you messed up
If you installed everything correctly you shouldn't have any issues. I would check if the bolts are tightened correctly.
You could have bent the dust cover on the back side of the disk brake
Your skipped the whole part you "fandanfled" idk how to fandangle
Fandangle meant I had to pry with the crow bar in different angles to get the bracket over the transmission mount stud.