2004 Toyota Sienna (Lower Control Arms and Linkage replacement)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.ย. 2024
- Looseness in front end, sloppy steering, poor alignment, and undesirable tire wear. Van is an XLE Limited with FWD / 2WD.
Channel merchandise and more:
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Parts:
1. Control Arms and Linkage Set (amzn.to/3d029XP)
Tools:
1. Safety glasses (amzn.to/3cNn3co)
2. Impact Wrench ½” Drive Electric (amzn.to/3iiSX1p)
3. ½” Drive Impact Socket Set (amzn.to/2GuDBtr)
4. Jack Stands (amzn.to/3jxX1fC)
5. Car Jack (amzn.to/3cSjl15)
6. Heavy Duty Wheel Chock, (Pack of 2) (amzn.to/3jmyeeH)
7. Socket Set, 3/8-Inch Drive, SAE/Metric, 34-Piece (amzn.to/2HIvZ7j)
This video is intended for entertainment purposes and personal documentation. My goal is help guide others when it comes to basic car services outlining my experiences. If you are not familiar with basic tools and usage techniques, or you are unsure if you can safely prepare a vehicle for service, I encourage you to review your car's owners manual and/or recruit the help of a friend or neighbor who can effectively fill the gap.
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#DrivewayCarRepair #Sienna - บันเทิง
Thank you much for the video, I would not have done the job without it. Here are some comments that might be helpful for other people:
1. You do NOT need to disconnect the sway bar links. If you put the car on jack stands on BOTH sides the sway bar is not in the way. It is however if you jack up one side so the car is tilted.
2. It is easier to put the new arm in if you lower the engine back down after removing the mount.
3. The stud of the mount on the driver side on my car was way too long. Check yours, if it is then you may want to cut it off a little so that you do not need to lift up the engine / transmission too high. If you do lift it up too high then you may damage components on the top. For example, my air intake hose was pulled off of the air filter housing.
4. On the passenger side I had to put the front 22 mm bolt first and then the rear. On the diver side - the other way around. There is no rule here, depends on how well the replacement parts fit. Mine by Detroit Axle were not too good, I had to use pry bars to get them in. It was a tough job and time consuming. I should have had parts that fit better, maybe buy from the dealer or go with a different aftermarket brand.
Excellent feedback. Thank you.
I watched another guy do the same thing you were doing on a different video, and it seems you were doing things that weren't necessary to accomplish the same job. I will be doing this to my vehicle, so I'm watching several videos so I can cut it down to only essential removals to replace the lower control arm. Thanks for helping me with showing me things I won't have to do!
Anytime. Good luck
The end piece on the lower control arm is called a ball joint.
Thank you for making this video tips. I have a 2009 Venza V6 AWD w 177K mileage that needs new control arms. It seems that both the Sienna and Venza have the same control arms and same mounting. After seeing this video I feel confident that I can replace the control arms as well since I'm about to replace both lower ball joints.
Glad it helped
This is exactly how to do it. Worked for me
Do you remember what socket sizes we'll need? We are going to borrow an impact gun from a coworker, but we only have regular sockets and not the black impact kind (only two impact ones that we use with our breaker bar for lug nuts). He needs to know what sockets we need.
Gosh. I believe the largest size was 22mm and it was used in multiple places. For this job, I just used a breaker bar and not my impact. Regardless, you could probably get away with not having to purchase the black sockets as long as you are using 8 point sockets. Sorry for lack of details. I almost did not post this video as I had poor coverage on most steps.
@@projectfixit I finally found a video where the guy states the socket sizes. 10mm, 14, 17, 19, 22. Your van looks fantastic. Barely any rust. You still have paint on your control arm! Lol all I have is rust. Every inch of every piece of metal under my van is covered in rust. So whenever we go to get any bolts off, it's a fight to the death. The plan is to use the impact wrench at a low setting and patiently work the bolts off. This evening, when we got the van back after having someone patch a hole in the rocker panel, I jacked it up and put it on stands, took the wheels off, and sprayed with Zep 45 every bolt we plan on taking off. Gonna let it soak for several days until we work on it on Saturday. Maybe I'll give it another spray tomorrow.
@@SarahPoulin Yep. I live in a part of the country with two seasons (Fall and Summer). No salt to corrode my vehicle up. Good luck.
Nice work. This looks the same as my old es330 which I'm about to do the same job.
Thanks! Good luck on the repairs.
Ok video lower control arm disscription of how too, I would mark all the bolts afterwards if working on someone else's vehicle, and also sometimes you can buy a brand-new vehicle right off the lot with thoughts bushings shot, so look out for this on dealership vehicles too✨🏁☕🔧😷🔧🛸🏜️
pro trick: you can watch movies at kaldrostream. Been using it for watching loads of movies these days.
@Patrick Collin Yup, I have been watching on kaldrostream for since november myself =)
No way you had to cut the ball joint 🤣🤣
Great video
Thanks!
Can anyone tell me if the 2005 Sienna requires the motor mount to be removed in order to get the control arms out?
I have a 2008 scienna and the motor mounts is just like in the video. I found a mechanic to do mine. It's too much for me. I usually do brakes rotors and cv axles,belts, alternators and things like that but not control arms or struts or rack and pinion, I pay to get those done. I hope this helps.
@@BenjimenAnderson we ended up paying to get it done as well. Too much rust and bolts seized on.
Thank you for the great video. How many miles were on your van at time of replacement. Do you think it's a good idea to replace the motor mounts too while you're in there? Shocks too for that matter. I have an AWD 04 and that will also need a steering rack.
I replaced the lower control arms somewhere around 140k miles. I am sure I have it logged somewhere, but this is just from memory. I haven't seen any issues with my motor mounts and they are pretty easy to get to. So, I would't change them unless they need replacing. I just replaced the struts on mine and have a video on that. If you were going to replace the struts, it is an ideal time to do it. The steering rack was a pain to replace on this vehicle comparing it to a pathfinder / QX4. You have to fish it out the driver's side wheel well. Now would be an ideal time for that, too. With all of that at once, you are pretty much tearing apart the whole front end. Take your time and be sure to properly tighten all hardware and double, triple, quadrupedal check everything.
GOLD advice @@projectfixit
I assume what is shown in this video is AWD Sienna. There is a slight difference compared to FWD models, at least in some part numbers and specs.
This particular vehicle is 2WD.
sorry 2WD/FWD
@@projectfixit I watched the video for a seoncd time, yes it looks FWD/2WD.
What made me though it's AWD is your wheels. I think your van is XLE or higher trim that shares the same style rims/ run-flat tires with AWD models.
Thanks for the video.
0:30 Is that a broken engine mount?
Thanks for the great video. I am actually stuck in putting the right lower control arm back in. I put left bolt and the right two bolts loosely in. Now I can't align the three bolts on the piece attached to the ball joint to the holes on the control arm. they are about half inch out from the holes. What should I do? Thanks!
Actually I got my answer from someone on the internet. I inadvertently had pulled the axle out a bit. I just turn the wheel straight and pushed the axle in.
Here is a video where I replace just the ball joint on the same vehicle. you can see at 4-minute mark in this vide where I am aligning the ball joint studs into the control arm. th-cam.com/video/VoWyhjoav6M/w-d-xo.html
good day sir.may i ask, what symptoms showed up leading to your replacing the control arm?thanks
Looseness in the front end and visually I could see the rubber bushings were destroyed.
Great video I need to replace mind. How are those Bodeman control arms holding up?
I don't drive the car much these days, but I was driving it around today running some errands and was thinking of how good of a ride it is. They seem to be holding up fine. I haven't inspected them in a while, but the steering system is solid. Front tire tread looks to be wearing evenly. I have also replaced the front struts, too. I have a video on that as well. Thank you for watching!
My wife’s siennas lower control arm bushings are also cracked like that and the steering is very loose and sloppy. I also noticed the rack and pinion shifts a little when we turn the wheel. Do you think the sloppy steering is due to the lca or more from the rack and pinion?
My feeling is the the lower control arms and related ball joints will create the most looseness in your steering. I believe the rack gear bushings may be replaced without having to replace the whole rack gear.
@@projectfixit I ordered the lca and hopefully it’ll fix the loose steering. From your video I think I can do it myself but if it’s the rack and pinion I’m just going to pay a shop to do it since it looks like it requires way more work. Thanks for the reply.
The steering rack should not shift when you turn the wheel. On my 2006 the bushings on the rack were shot at 180,000 miles and had lots of sterring slop and would have activation on VSC with cornering. Rather than replacing the entire rack, I replaced the bushings with Polyurethane ones I got off ebay. Toyota only sells the entire rack rather than just bushings. Took some time to get the rack off and repalce the old bushings, but was only $39 for the parts. Van now has 209,000 on it and no problems. I followed Fix it Angels video replacing the rack. Make sure you torque to all the proper specs. and get a alignment done afterward.
@@D52318 yup those are the same symptoms my wife gets when she takes a corner. Did you had to use press or a BFH would work?
did you have to remove the dog bone rubber mount on top right side of engine?
I didn't, but I probably should have. It's not too hard to remove.
I notice both of my front lower control arms are shot as well. I also have been plague with the excessive outer tire wear on both front wheels. I literally have to replace them with less than 15k miles. Did this repair helped with tire wear?
I am at 185k today which means I have put right around 21k on the car since the repairs. At some time near this repair, I had installed new tires. So far, it appears the tires are wearing evenly. We will see after another 21k or so. At that time, the tires should be close to needing replaced.
@@projectfixit Our Sienna has 193k miles on it. What PSI did you inflate your tires to? We inflate them to 43psi and it does help a little bit.
@@CJ-fh5xq I have mine inflated to 35PSI as it states on the inner door panel.
Yes it will fix the tire wear issue.
Can this be done without raising the entire front of the car at once (like only raising one side at a time
Yes. You can do one side at a time. I am not sure why I jacked the complete car up. I was probably trying to be more efficient since I knew I was going to do both sides anyway.
Thank you so much! I was worried that if I did one side at a time it would throw everything off and I'd have trouble getting parts out or back in.
Most of my driveway is on a slight incline only the 6 ft. or so from the garage door is flat. It would make me a bit nervous having half the car in the air. Doing this job next weekend. Struts, control arms, ball joints, stabilizer end links/bushings and new pads and rotors. Front end is a mess lol
Could you do it without loosening the tie rod?
I did not have to touch my tie rods as removing the nuts from the ball joint (bottom side) separates the control arm from the hub. My tie rod ends were good as they had been replaced when I replaced the rack & pinion a while back. Thanks for watching!
@@projectfixit thanks. Just did mine. What a nightmare. The motormount right side was super stuck. It just wouldn't come of the motor. Took me a couple hours just dealing with that. I had the hole front of the van hanging on the unbolted but rusted in stud on top of the motormount! Besides that on both motormounts some of the the lower studs came loose while trying to get the nuts of. They are just pressed in and have a round head so if you have a rusty nut and need lots of torque and your stud becomes loose you are in for a treat. Thanks god I bought my first welder yesterday. I could spotweld the studs so I can take the nuts of. I don't know how a person could deal with it without a welder, since there is no space to grab the top of it ROUND head. Also the balljoints wouldn't come loose. I had to cut both of with a sawsal with carbide teeth blade, and then with hammering, jacking up and a crowbar they finally gave up. I think my next tool is going to be a ball joint seporator fork. I also had to take the driverside arm in and out a couple times because the two bolts for the front bushing wouldn't get in right. I think the mount in the bushing was slightly twisted and guided the bolts in an angle and they couldn't grap the thread. All over all I have to say it is is a horrible design and it was no fun dealing with this.
I feel your pain about the ball joint. The design is horrible as I had to cut mine off, too. Sorry to hear about the corrosion causing you issues. I am fortunate to live in an area where salt is not present in the air or roads. I appreciate you watching my video.
Jezz man I’m looking at videos on this cause i need to do mine...but wow what a job! Thinking of taking it to the shop. Did you get pricing on this job? Don’t think I want to take it on!
Well, I am a cheapskate and figured I would tackle it. It wasn't too bad. The nut for the knuckle was seized on mine. I probably did not need to change the knuckles since the ball joint and boot were still in good condition. Otherwise, the control arm replacement does require the removal of the motor mount. If you are confident in your abilities to use tools, tackle it yourself. You will need 3-4 hours if you are taking it slow and steady. If you get it quoted, I would be interested to hear what a repair shop will charge you.
@@projectfixit I have to do this and the quote is $700 for a side from one shop. $500 for a side from another shop.
@@19jc80 Mine quote was $288 x 2 parts and $850 labor (USD), Wheel Works. It took me about 4 hours each side, I am not a professional, but I had all the tools that were needed: an impact gun to get the 22 bolts out, could not get them with hand tools, impact sockets, pry bars, break bar, (impact) sockets and wrenches (10, 14, 17, 18, 19, 22), extensions, W40.
@@DT-cd9rj thanks for the details about the socket sizes. 👍
@@projectfixit do to both sides of our 2004 Sienna we got a quote for parts and labor for $856. The castle nut is also stuck on mine.
Did you cut through your ball joint bolt through the boot a few inches under the castle nut? I'm trying to decide if I should take out the CV shaft to get at the castle nut from above with a socket/breaker bar or hack away at it.
Please place the tire under the van before do anything
This guy sounds so confused...that I got confused as well. I only watched 4 minutes of his video.
And walked away...!! No thanks but I passed..!
quite an ignorant design on toyotas part and not very user friendly for the home mechanic when it comes to the bolts under the motor mounts
I agree. The ball joint castle nut isn't positioned any better. Thank you for watching!