PVC tips and Tricks: From those of us who have had to manage this type of problem and everyone interested: Thanks for a very practical and satisfying video!
I've done pool PVC plumbing for a half century and "Fitting Chipping" can sometimes mean the difference between a 30 minute and two hour plus repair due to how tightly a manifold's fittings are stacked. The observations that this is a "silly" repair are valid, but it was an easy and visible way to demonstrate the technique. The other half of my magic bag of tricks is several sizes of "Rambits", a propeller-like reaming tool that removes *just* the pipe from inside a glued fitting., leaving it ready for a new section of pipe to be reglued into the old fitting! My only suggestions are: I have found a single, 45 degree, diagonal slice down to the pipe makes it easier to sneak the chisel under the pointed end of the "collar". I can often get fittings to spin off in one piece by just working the chisel forward, a tap at a time. (Then again, I'm usually working in 1-1/2" or larger.) This has the benefit that you can make this cut first, leaving the connection intact and better supported, then make the through-cut last. Unless I actually need to compensate for shrinkage or expansion of a plastic part that must be reused, I've stayed away from teflon tape for about 40 of those 50 years. I find a joint stick or a PVC compatible thread sealant to be far less prone to leak. Even if properly laid and wrapped and with no evidence of "spinning" by the teflon with the female side, they can still disappoint. If the teflon *does* grab and spin with the female side...always start over. Nice video!
__________Use a small amount of of pipe dope on male (and female) threads, then wrap with a little teflon. I have had to go back on my co-workers "teflon-only" joins, buried 18'' under the ground!!! and fix them. Pain in the arse!! As for chipping... once you've got your 45 degree slice....heat the fitting without making it soft ( take your time) and the slip joint tends to peel off when using your tool.
I live in a very rural area. Roads become impassable in big storms. Sometimes we cannot get out for a week. This is a good idea, I will remember it. As it so happens, my main water pipe (galvanized) had rusted all the way thru and broke off during a huge storm. Couldn't get out, the roads were out. I (single woman farmer) could not get the rusted pipe to unthread. I tried everything, cheater bars, rust spray, etc. So finally what I did was I went and got the Perma-Wrap I always keep on hand. I cut the vertical pipe off just below the rusted thru area. I JB welded a 3/4" PVC cap on. The I used the Perma-Wrap. Perma-Wrap makes two kinds of repair tape. One for pressurized and one for non. This repair is good for up to 300PSI. Life saver kind of stuff for me. Its nice to run across others who think outside the box and are familiar with all the constraints involved with making emergency repairs.
Thank you for your comment! Most comments are from people who didn’t get the point of the video that it’s for emergency repairs not for everyday repairs! I posted it to help people like you and me who have been in these situations.
@@rickhinojosa5455 LOL - I work on everything. I built my own house and all out-buildings, by myself, and maintain them, as well as grow a lot of my own food. Now at 75, still going strong. Life is Grand Indeed! Peace Be Upon you also!
@@Elementaldomain That's wonderful!! And 75!! I hope I'm up and running still when I'm 75. Have twenty years to go to find out😱. That's right around the corner, really. You know how time flies! 🙏
@@rickhinojosa5455 Observing life around me, it seems to be a matter of consciousness that determines whether we always remain productive. It is subtle, but if you look closely you hear people saying all the time, in one way or another...well, they use age as a excuse they can't do something. It is almost as if they were waiting their whole life to use age as an excuse to be lazy. And they reaffirm that when speaking with each other "well, you know I can't expect to do the things I did when I was young"......statements like that, Speaking their Word, creating their own false realities."" I actually feel better now than when I was younger. I had many physical illnesses when I was younger but I just kept going anyway, kept reaffirming that the body is whole and it can not know anything but Perfection. And now, it is. I haven't had so much as a sniffle in 30 years. So, a long reply to your reply but saying don't "hope", make it so. Every time you hear someone making those limiting statements, just reaffirm to yourself that they are not so for you and that you do not accept their false realities. Peace Be Upon you.
Brother thank God for you. You have no idea the headache I went through last week trying to fix my union. Mine broke on the opposite side and I had to repair the entire pvc pipe to put in a new union. Now my other union is breaking on the other side due to sun damage. I wish I saw this video last week. Would have saved me a boat load of money, time, energy and stress. Thank you for this video. I just ordered that part. Godbless you brother
People seem to miss that this is something you can do in an emergency situation where the supply stores are closed and you still need to return the customer's/ tenants water services. Good video thank you.
Yeah ad he still could've used a hose with clamps a Until getting the proper fixtures. You either know what your doing or you dont This internet DIY is making it great for those of us that really know what were doing.. know what were doing
I was plumbing on Midway Island which is in the middle of the Pacific Ocean 5000 miles from Kawaii and I had to make a 3" MIP so we glued a piece of pipe into a coupling so we could insert into the pipe threader and threaded 1 1/2" from end of coupling and then I did what you just showed to get rid of pipe from my new MIP. Dremels and oscillating tools are really nice today for doing this type of work. Thanks for sharing
Got to say a big thank you for posting this method for removing a already glued on PVC fitting. This saved me a bunch of work as I needed to what I thought was replace a leaking section of my pool pump 2" plumbing with a union on it. But it turns out the union has been discontinued so I had to keep and re-use the female part of the union which had a section of pipe on it with a broken slip-PT fitting on the end. I thought there was no way to get that fitting off the end of that pipe. But your method worked like a charm using a dremel tool to cut the grooves in the broken pvc fitting. It came off pretty cleanly with a chisel after that. I sanded the pipe, and re-glued it into a replacement fitting....whallah! Done! Thanks again !!
@@dvdcnly It is more about the time and gas to buy the parts you don't have. If the nearest open store is 45 minutes away this makes a lot of sense. I would definitely recommend never screwing metal threads into a plastic fittings though. They split very easily.
PIPEFITTER since 1981. What you did was especially awesome for someone in the field, short on time and fittings and need this job done. All the customer wants is it done fast and done good and that's exactly what you did! A quick way to make an easy $65 on this service call if you're an independent. Painting PVC exposed to the sun only does it good and extends it's service life, keeps the pipe fresh. Ignore the hater's coming on here, you did good!!
He is using the chisel upside down. Flat side against work piece drives the chisel in further, use the angle side towards the work and you should end up with hardly any gouges....
Thanks for the video! There are lots of videos showing how to remove pipe from fittings (preserving the fitting), but not many showing removing fittings from pipe (preserving the pipe).
I have read a good number of the negative comments about this repair video. I for one, am thankful for any small bit of information I may someday need to use in an emergency. Please, cut this guy some slack, he demonstrated a method that will work if you do not have the proper parts, nothing more nothing less. I am from the US and I think most repair techs in first world countries will agree and understand what I am about to write. I have lived the past 5 1/2 years in the Philippines. I see things in plumbing and electrical work almost daily that will make PRO installers (and code enforcement) cringe. Still, it functions and works for these folks. In my own retirement project home and just one day ago, a shower unit fell from its holder and broke off a deteriorated valve on the wall. The water supply to the home had to be shut off as NOTHING is installed with cleanouts, shutoff valves etc. etc. I had to open a hole with a brick hammer and pointed chisel and dig out some room around the plastic supply line. I was able to cut off the jagged pipe with a mini-hack hacksaw blade holder and a hacksaw blade. A very tight fit in the solid cement wall. My "repair" was made from parts on hand in the middle of the night while I was placing trades in my IRA accounts. A 90-degree elbow, a plastic ball valve and a few small odds and ends restored water service in the CR (comfort Room). I would call my efforts UGLY AS HELL but it is beautiful to my wife and family. NO ONE in my home complained when they woke up for school with water available in all three CRs, "dirty" kitchen and the main kitchen. My wife kissed me and commented how blessed we are to have the home we own, the smarts to repair/ remodel and "even municipal running water." A large number of folks here have no idea what "real" running water is. Chill out guys and appreciate the high standards of life you enjoy.
If you ever do, when you glue it back up, glue it then push it in then pull it back and wait a bit then re-glue the hub and pipe then push it as hard as you can and hold it there until the glue sets up enough that it won't back out, been plumbing for 42 years and know all kinds of tricks.
Absolutely correct Harold. I had one shot to make this repair or it would have been a much longer project to chip out tile and solid mortar from around what little supply line I had access to. Work here in the Phils is NOT done with any forethought to long-term maintenance or repair.
"Plumb an outhouse" now that speaks volumes to the skills of some self-proclaimed experts. Thank you, Harold, you made my night (it is 3:30AM) here in the Phils) with that one.
glyn hodges ya something as simple as running water and sewage systems are just taken for granted. Everyone should be forced to clean out a septic tank or the likes to bring them back down to earth. I wouldn’t go that far but you know what I mean, people are just ignorant.
I have been working with both conduit and water lines for over thirty years, but I still like to see if someone knows a better way to do things. I have had to learn much on my own, but i have also learned better ways to do something and it helped me increase my own skills by looking at how someone else does it. Sometimes I find my way is best, sometimes I find another's way of doing something is best, so I either stick to my way, or adopt another way, but I appreciate it when someone shows their way of doing it, and it helps a new Tech to learn. Thanks for showing this!
You can use a heat gun to heat the coupler you are removing. You only need to cut one slit. Heat it up so it’s slightly soft then use needle nose players to roll up the coupling you are removing. Kind of like the old sardine can. This helps insure from damaging the rest of the piping from the shock of hitting it with the chisel/hammer combo. Older pvc gets brittle and can easily crack where you don’t want it to.
Every workman has their style. I would use a small chisel to get a grip on the edges, then a nose plier to twist off the portions. I've had to do this several times. The pipe is what you have to protect. The fittings are expendable. Good job!!
You are the only person I have seen on TH-cam that wraps the Teflon tape the way I do. I find it easier to feed off the back and hold the starting end by holding like you do. 👍🤙✌️😃
Hey come on guys give this youngman alot way more credit than what you people is giving him he is teaching his way his video to teach people a way of doing this great job well done
I've been a plumber for over 40 years. I've does this on occasion, but IMO its not worth the effort on this particular job. Just cut below the 90 and add a coupling and short piece of pipe. There have been jobs where this procedure was necessary though. Nice video.
As many have noted, he states in the beginning that it's a fix you can do if you're in a jam - not that in this case he was in said jam. It's a demonstration, instructional video.
@@mitchd2040 There are many places in this country … rural for example … where there is not a Home Depot or Lowes or any hardware/plumbing supply "around the corner", and Amazon is going to take at least a day or two, so it's a great tip that can solve a problem.
People read THE TITLE of the video!!!!!!! We all know how to do the job the normal way, He's taking the time to show us what to do if we are in a situation where we can't get a part "Like Right Now" "Great Video".......... ~PVC Tips and Tricks~
Post thought; ...and for you 'pros' out there who thought he was nuts for illustrating this method for 'quick' fixes, try being three hours from your shop, after hours, and having your last hack saw blade break. I wound up using a piece of "string" to cut a 6" pvc pipe off that I was plumbing on. Worked great! Learned it from a missionary who had to do it in South America.
memyself ... Yes. You take a long piece of heavy duty thin string and tie a finger loop at each end. Place it around the pipe and begin rapidly pulling it back and forth in a sawing motion in the same spot. After a few seconds, it begins to cut through the plastic like butter due to the friction and heat.
It’s all good Bill! I did it too try and help someone stuck in a bad situation. I’ve come to enjoy all comments no matter how harsh they are. Have a good day!
I can't believe that worked, but it did! I would do anything to avoid all that work, but like you said, if you don’t have the right parts, can’t get the right parts, and times a-wastin', you do what you gotta do. Amazing.
And you will be coming back again to re-do it, when the new part he glued on the gouged pipe comes off or leaks there. Do it right, so you don't have to do it over. If, for some reason it needed the leak stopped temporarily until it could be done right, take some rubber tape, wrap it around the leaking part, and fasten a hose clamp over it. It will stop the leak well enough for a few days or weeks.
I've made a similar repair and used a flat head screwdriver to pry off the old fitting after cutting channels into it. Less chance of gouging the pipe I'm guessing. Also used Blue Lava PVC cement. Great job!
Don't mind the hate. The same plumbers who criticize you (who clearly don't know what they're talking about) are the "real plumbers" that do shit jobs that force us to hire people to redo. This is why I hate contractors in general & choose to do most jobs myself because a majority of them are garbage. The comments here only confirm it! I enjoyed learning a new technique. Thank you!
Just sharing something that saved my butt a few times until I could do it right! I wouldn't do this if I had the parts and there was nothing urgent waiting for the water!
I have done many plumbing jobs over the last 50 years and did not know you could do this and it seems to work better than I would anticipate BUT unless the joint comes apart where you can reuse it again with no leaks, it is far easier to start again with new pieces as they are not that expensive and plastic is cheap. I have reused copper before but in finishing a job and wanting no leaks after first assembly would be using new parts is the fastest and best way to do. Only if you have a dire problem and are 30 miles away from any Home Depot or others would I attempt this. Also if you are a real do it yourselfer and do home repairs you normally have "spare parts" you did not return and can accommodate your plumbing issue. But this video is well received and another idea to keep in mind because you never know when it could come in handy!
Nice option. Not everyone has a heat gun. However, when using the chisel, use the angled edge against the pipe. It won't gouge the pipe you want to save.
Are you suggesting heating the glued joint will cause it to weaken so it could be removed? That would be much easier and cleaner, I would think ... should have been mentioned as an option.
Ive been an irrigation tech for a long time. The reason you dont do this is because pvc glue on pvc is considered a permanent bond. To reuse a section in this way means it will surly fail again. The pvc glue actually melts a layer of the pvc pipe and thearfore it will break or leak in the future. Dont do this please
@@pvctipsandtricks768 What kind of 'critical' pvc connection would you operate with a compromised bond when you can go get a couple fittings and some more pipe for a few bucks at ANY hardware store in the country? ... You know they make straight in line fittings and clamp things that are literally like a dollar and you can clean cut and glue back to any length you need.
Also, using a chisel like that eventually your going to learn to handle it carefully and never brace work with you hand forward of the chisel right when you impale you hand with it. We all learn the lesson that way.
Really useful video - thanks. This was the only way I could have done the job on a 2 inch PVC pipe where the fitting was flush back to the wall of a sewage tank with no spare pipe without the need for expensive excavation. Saved me a lot of unnecessary cost. Thanks again!
Thank you for your post! You are the exact reason I made the video, knowing someday it would help someone with no other options. I had plenty of options where I made my video but it was just to show how it can be done!
I get the impression that this young lad works for an irrigation company and is not a plumber or even had proper or sufficient training in plumbing materials and methods. I give him credit for holding a job and doing his best.
My pops showed me this trick when i was young. There are many scenarios where this may come handy. Will also give you props for putting that towel to catch the adhesive. Great job, bro.
I have done this in a pinch to get something going, but I look at it as a "temporary fix". There's a couple reasons why this won't achieve the full strength of a proper joint. Ideally, the dry fit is very snug, because the glue does not really hold it together. it is the PVC itself from the pipe and fitting that create a "weld" of PVC and the glue is more like the method of dissolving the PVC. Using this method on a very well made PVC joint, is not so easy because done right, the pipe and the fitting become one part. If it peels off easy, it really wasn't a great joint. Another downside to this repair is that without being able to twist the joint and work the dissolved PVC, you just have glue holding it together. This indeed will hold up, but you technically give up some of the spec strength. Odds are that you aren't going to use it at max pressure or max heat, so you'll probably not notice what spec strength you gave up. I've seen people glue up one piece after another without thinking about really needing the twist part of making a joint. Ideally, when this was assembled, the last glued section should have been the vertical pipe. But I've watched pros do it wrong and not just DIYers. Personally, I don't like using PVC pipe to make something that can't be dissembled. And your idea of putting a union in the vertical, is what should have been done in the first place. Or having a union or other fitting that can be dissembled in the steel pipe. I like to view it as if it were all rigid steel pipe and use the same function fittings but with PVC instead of steel. The one word you used that made me a bit uncomfortable was, "customer". I really hate the idea of a "pro" using these kinds of shortcuts and not doing it right. But plumbing is even worse than electrical in the US where we have "installers" vs, trained and certified plumbers and electricians. More often than not, we have general contractors who may buy a "license" but are not even skilled or certified in the trades they contract. And they employ "self proclaimed plumbers and electricians". In reality, these folks are really just "installers" without the in depth training and certification. Sometime you will find some of these guys who have a lot of experience and also spent their own time to learn technically proper theory and standards. But as a customer, you have no way of knowing this. It is far too common in the residential market while in industry, they tend to use trained and certified tradesmen.
I agree 100% that this is only to be used in a pinch. For instance I did it at midnight when I didn’t have a SCHD 80 reducer fitting that I couldn’t pick up at a store at that hour or any hour of the day in the town I was working in. I did this repair then the next weekend when I had the correct part I redid that section with new parts. I kept a dialysis clinic running all week on that repair while I got the correct parts. I’m not doing this for pay by the hour customers. These are quoted jobs for weekend remodels and if you don’t get it working hundreds of patients have to find new centers that will do their 3 time a week treatment to keep them alive.
@@pvctipsandtricks768 Thank you for that info, I have helped people out similarly doing what it takes to get them through a crisis and coming back to help them make a proper fix. I'm an electrical engineer by career and quite a long one at that. As a young man I used my hand skills a lot but as my career developed, I became less about doing and more abut planning, managing, troubleshooting and teaching. But I have long been a DIYer just to keep doing some work with my own two hands. I was a firm believer that if I learned well enough, no one could do it better than I could. I learned a lot from old time tradesman and books and classes. As I managed multi-million dollar projects and direct the work of dozens on tradesmen and other engineers, I still enjoyed my time in my shop, doing as much of my own work as I could. As I went into semi-retirement, I started teaching. Mostly Electrical but closely involved with other trade crafts through our group and at the community college. I still go some custom classes too for employers trying to improve the skills of their maintenance people. Mostly electrical, but quite a bit of mechanical too as I have a broad range of industrial knowledge and it seem that students love how I teach. Being an engineer at heart, I emphasis doing stuff the right way, but I also teach some little tricks to help get through a crisis, while insisting that the job isn't done until it is fixed correctly. I have some mixed feelings about all the TH-cam videos by people who think they know what they are doing or try to show shortcuts to doing things correctly. I sometimes make comments to try to emphasis the right way and why we do things the right way and according to standards. As you can probably tell, I'm not really happy with how the residential building trades have devolved. Too many places allow substandard work by untrained people. And too many people watch a video or two and think they are electricians or plumbers. Take pride in your work and strive to learn the right way to do things, not just the quickest or the cheapest ways,
Walter Evans exactly. Hey, time is money. I could have did this the normal way and been at the next job! But hey, this might save your ass where you can’t cut and use a coupling. Like a stub sticking out of a basement wall.
@@Cotronixco The problem with that is that you retape and twist the top part back in, with the elbow and a nipple (left from the cur).You have to finish with the nipple DOWN, which means you aren't really feeling the proper tightnesss. I have done it, I just don't like it. Much better to replace everything up from the union.
This worked perfectly to repair and replace my union connection on my pool pump. It was easy like you described, I carefully used a dremel to make the cuts due to lack of space to work. Great video thanks
Wow seems to be a lot of critics on this video. I have used the procedure you have described and 5-10 yrs later it's still water tight. I stock all size fittings and pipe I need but a few times I have found myself without the needed part and this technique will work if you are careful. I use heat to remove pipe from a "need to save" fitting up to 6" and it works great. Maybe if you started off stating that this technique is good for an emergency situation or a non critical repair that won't flood a house or waste huge amounts of water if it does fail then there would have been less critics. The main problem I have would be to use this technique if fresh fittings and pipe are available.
Not how i would have made the repair but for someone with little to no experience, great tip to get them started in repair plumbing. I would have used my torch to heat up the fitting and peal it off the pipe. Just dont burn up the pipe. Threading plastic to metal, I use pipe dope. Teflon tape has caused cross threading on me in the past.
This video is to show that you can in fact undo a glued fitting and keep the same pipe that was glued into the fitting. It is not the easiest way to make a repair and not the best way either. I do most of my work with SCHD 80 PVC inside of medical facilities. These parts are generally not available at most hardware stores, so if you run out on a weekend there is no way to get more. I try to build things with no couplers unless the run extends beyond 10ft. My customers and I will generally see unions as a mess up or a place where a repair was made so we try and avoid them. This form of repair can help keep things looking perfect, but like I say in the video I only use it when I have no other option.
PVC Tips and Tricks This is useful for hot tub repairs too, where a coupler can't be added, and the part it's attached to that you need to save is expensive . My cousin also showed me that heating the bad piece with a torch works too
Recommendation. Before reglueing your pipe. I would sand it with your wet n dry sand paper you use for copper piping. Emery cloth. Maybe even rough up your fitting with a wire brush then do all your priming. You did a very good job in explaining how to do your pvc water repair with piping that has pressure applied when finished. Your technique is also very useful with plastic drain piping. One very good technique you are using is when a plumber has to replace a toilet flange. We have all seen that rotted out toilet flange. Your technique can be used for a street type fittings also. Good job.
How to undo a glued PVC fitting properly: Cut it out and replace it, even if you have to go to the store and buy more parts, in this case a 25 cent coupler (he has the pipe, the elbow, and the threaded adapter fitting.) Simple as that, any other way is doing it WRONG.
You were talking about using unions where you can't unscrew something. I use a "poor mans union" under all my sprinkler valves: Pipe-Female, male-pipe, short piece of pipe, pipe-male, female-pipe. Then when you need to change the valve, cut out the short piece of pipe, unscrew the two male-female joints. Then to replace it, screw in the two m-f's and slide in a short piece of pipe as you shove the valve down on the new short piece of pipe. actually it takes twice the number of parts as I mentioned, because you do the inlet and the outlet at the same time. It doesn't look as bulky as the unions, and I always have these parts on hand, unlike unions.
You taught me a new technique. Wonderful! I’ve never seen this before. There’s a million ways to do anything. This is one of the million of ways that can help someone. Thanks for an excellent video. You did a fantastic job!
Man, I hate it when the plumber is too cheap to include a union. Like no one is ever going to have to maintain the system. I see you have a lot of negative comments but I've worked HVAC maintenance for a large school district running one urgent call after another. Time spent packing up, driving to a vender and back is time you could use repairing other equipment. So, you cut corners but you're a pro and you know what works. I've done some amazing temporary repairs I was proud of to get equipment online and keep the facilities in business. Oh, I think I just had a flashback. Time to destress. 😁
Haha I love that you get where I’m coming from! Most haters have never been in the situations we have been in. I’ll do this kind of fix to keep a company up and running all day to make their money and come back with the right parts later!
PVC trips and tricks: Thanks for the instruction. I have a pressure gage threaded into a PVC 1" Tee between two 90's and only a few inches on either side of the 1" Tee. The PVC is split where the gage threads into the 1" PVC. The 1" Tee needs to be replaced. This idea might work better than cutting, coupling, gluing which will look really bad And as for some of the snotty remarks on this page, Some people just have to be argumentative or obstinate little babies and need to grow up. Thanks again.
I've used this method with a Dremel tool multiple times servicing & repairing pool as well and hot tub & spa equipment. Dremel tool is the key with using the chisel properly.
Pete_ Hine_Of_PA As a plumber for 30 years I can tell this seldom works if the pipe and fittings were cleaned and glued together correctly. He got lucky.
I realize it was kind of a demonstration but there were way better ways to fix that. In fact all that pipe looked flimsy for being outside. I certainly would have cut the pipe and installed a new joint someplace and while it was apart fix that threaded end. I'm not a plumber, I don't like doing it except for necessity. Thanks for your reply. If you don't have fittings on hand, I doubt you'll have fairly fresh glue and glue primer on hand either. Regardless, either keep that stuff on hand, or make a trip to the store. If my glue is more than a month old, I buy fresh glue if the joint is going to be hard to get at or not out in the open. I also ruff up the joints with course steel wool. Thanks for your reply, appreciated.
This particular situation isn't an emergency, and that's a lot of work to repair a drip just to save a few dollars. Be that as it may, you didn't replace a nipple, you replaced a male adapter. Also, when you glue two pieces of plastic together you're supposed to push them together tightly, turn the piece 1/4 turn and hold it for thirty seconds so the fitting is seated correctly and the glue doesn't push the fittings apart. Using unions to install valves in an excellent idea. You should have used a union to replace the male adapter as well, that way the job would have been done easier, faster and properly.
I learned a new technique.i once did a similar 5job.lucky for me i have a heating gun to use.i just heated that part with old glue and the glue had softened so i pulled the fittngs right away .took out the threaded part cleaned added a new teflon tape .then put all back together.THANKS for the VIDEO.
@@viewome It’s not really an open pipe in this case, there’s a ball valve immediately after the connection so not really much concern of pieces being lost forever here.
He could have turned the comment capability on this vid off, but he left it on so the people with valuable info to contribute even though a few had no legitimate info but chose to add it anyway. Great job.
Well, he got the idea across, but to avoid the gouging of the pipe he should have turned the chisel over with the taper against the pipe so the cutting edge would be flat against the pipe he was cleaning. Just a thought!
Since the fittings are usually the expensive parts and the straight pipe sections are cheap/easy to replicate, using a "fitting saver" drill bit is probably going to be a better (and far quicker) option. That would let you re-use the elbow and even the nipple (after you re-tighten it) and simply re-cut a new short 4" piece of straight pipe section. The "fitting saver" drill bits can be a little expensive, but they are a one-time purchase and can be used again for future jobs.
Thank you so much for showing me this way I used to cut the PVC and it didn't take less time adding a coupling it took a lot longer The reason being is cuz I always measured wrong. This way the measurements already there and all I have to do is add it I used a Dremel to cut the little grooves which I think was a lot better if you have one but if you don't of course there is a hacksaw but a Dremel works fantastic
Here's the way I get the pipe off. I cut the slots using a multi too when I can. Then I insert a flat bladed screwdriver into a slot a give it a quarter turn. It usually pops it off cleanly. Good video; well done.
Hi I’am 70 years old learn plumbing in Mexico, my father in law . Good Mexican plumber, did the biggest jobs in my home town, juaritos, he tough Me how to reuse the fittings, like that, when I was 17 .. only quicker.. w/ heat gun is 10 times faster, trough out my career I surprise the hak out my upper,/management, how fast , They can retest water; on a floor where they had failures, I retired from Local 412, industrial plumbing, done it on 6”and8”, thanks to that trick and, more that good plumber though me,I survived Lay offs... only one cutt 2 if is 4”or more, use the heat gun, grab the tip of your cut, w/ channel locks. And it will peel clean,
One viewer suggested adding heat to release the fitting parts. I have found that you can also apply liberal amounts of pvc primer to aid the release of the glue. The primer softens the glue/pipe boundary. My method is to slit the pipe as in the video, then dab on the primer and then the fitting pieces pry off much easier. This would be good if you have no access to power and a torch can't be used due to fire prevention issues. Good video.
A lot of people will probably say say too much time and effect. But, great innovation as I am the same in doing things. I was going to suggest that you add a union but you beat me to it at the end of your video. Wherever there are screw fittings, I like to add unions for possible future repairs and to make it easier for me or another guy in the future.
I’m a plumber and if someone used a primer and also glue for that connection there’s no way this would work that creates a weld also a real plumber would have taped and doped the mip anyways to prevent this leaking in the first place
Also only the male gets glue. When you glue the female side, the male pushes the glue in and clumps. Eventually breaking off and clogging further down the line.
The video subject was helpful as it met his need. And, it takes courage to put your work up for others, especially if you get torn apart by folks who don’t know a gimbal from a spindle. What drives me nuts is that so few presenters actually practice by going through the motions a couple of times. In addition place tools in order and then edit the video. There all sorts of free easy to use editors and add audio to the finished video. Sure it takes a little more time, but hey, this made it to at least 3,800 viewers with over 660 comments.
Ensure you have some brace or support for the pipe you are trying to remove the pieces off or you will end up with more of a problem by breaking that pipe. Always walk with a piece or two of 2x4’s. Removable couplings are always recommended for major areas like the area shown here or pool joints by the filter or pump as well.
Great video, thank you for sharing it. I am replacing an old pipe, I don’t know if the pipe is galvanized or cast iron, Howe, I have question how can I remove the old piece of galvanized from a pvc which is attached to an elbow a plastic elbow I am assuming is PVC. Thank you
You could cut the pvc pipe to allow you to spin the threaded fitting off of the pipe if there is enough room to allow it to spin off. Then repair the pvc pipe with a coupler once you are ready to put it back on.
Alternatively to chiseling would be using a flat blade screwdriver nested in the cut channel, then simply twist while prying up the cut piece. Using the screwdriver to pry up the fitting remnants as gently as possible as the pipe may be very strongly adhered in places around the fitting. I've had to set a hack saw blade next to a protruding piece,flush with the pipe, and saw away the last bits of fitting, then a utility knife cleans the pipe for re-attachment. Tedious but doing what must get did is how we roll.
Nice work buddy. I've had to do that before on a male adapter coming out of a PVB just like you showed in the video. Tideous work and takes patience but it may save you from having to come back the next day to get the system back on. Don't listen to the haters, they don't get it....
this is good for 3 or 4 inch pipe where it would save a lot of time and money ,I have used this method for 30 years ,but in this case just replace the pipe
Good tips, thanks. I am not a plumber, but for the few things I have done I try to plan for the future, so I would have added some unions and work space in the design if possible.
Tom, unions cost more and make the next repair waste less time. Real plumbers charge for a full 10' length of pipe even when all they need is 1". Cut the 1" piece off and put the 9'-11" piece back on the truck.
Regardless of the cost of the fittings, when you don't have them and can't get them for whatever reason; this is a great solution! The naysayers apparently didn't hear him say that.
Handy video! I can understand that there are use cases for this technique. I get the critique that this easily accessible and isolated, non-critical irrigation system is not one of them, but he had to show it somewhere. I may use it where it is desirable to save the PVC stub, like something embedded in a concrete slab or coming out of an expensive valve or other fitting. The thing that made me cringe every time he did it was using the sweated copper assembly as a backup for the chiseling operation! Bang bang bang up against the free-standing pipe and what an invitation to cracked solder joints, metal fatigue, heaven knows what else lurking inside the crawlspace. DIY plumbers: confine torquing, bending, whatever stress you're putting on the pipes to the work you're doing. Otherwise you run the risk of creating a leak in another part of the system. In this case he could have put a Workmate or sawhorse underneath. Even just stuck a 2x4 of appropriate length under it or against the house.
This is for a situation where you need water but don’t have the parts. It can buy you time to get them. For sprinklers this will probably never happen but there are different types of PVC used in different industries where this might be done in a bind to keep water supplied to a system while you hunt down parts they don’t sell at hardware stores
When you was threatening that fitting on, put more tape on the back and less on the front,clean the pipe thread out with a wire brush used for cleaning pipe fitting, just some tips I thought I would share, good Video though ,,
A great video for most part. First, I would use a pair of pliers to remove the fitting over the chisels. To me, it seems to work easier and faster. Second, I would rather use the purple primer and glue over the clear and gray which is also recommended. Also seals much better for water and such. Third, I have noticed that there were four unions that were placed incorrectly. I thought I bring this to your attention just in case you may have missed that part. It happens to the best of people some times.
it's unreal to see how many people think they're so smart in criticizing this guy when all he is trying to do is give another option to deal with a glued fitting IF in a jam. If you think in life you'll never need a plan B you're either delusional or have been breathing too much pvc glue. Thank you for this video. I glued pvc fitting for years and always thought they were fused by the glue into one piece. At least now I have another option IF I'm stuck but of course plan A (new fittings) is always the better option.
The guy put this on here to show someone who is in a bind a way to do a repair. It's pretty simple, if you don't like his method don't use it. But at the same time don't bash him for offering up some information. If you already know so much about that type of repair you shouldn't be looking up how to videos about it in the first place.
@@dansmith221 ok he showed what to do in a "pinch" but for 29 cents at menards or Lowes he could have 15 or 20 minutes of his life back. And, if 20 miles away, you should keep some "stock" on hand ! !
grey glue is used for schedule 80 pipe...the pipe in your demonstration is pr-160 and you might want to use a wrench to tighten the male adapter...hand tight just doesn't insure a good fit...the teflon tape is wrapped from the end of the threads inward and then back to the end of the threads......wrapping the tape five times causes the tape to bunch and does not allow the male thread to fully seat into the female fitting....
Yes pvc is cheap and generally not worth the time to save fittings. I personally have run into a couple of situations where I had to save the fittings though. One was like he mentioned, it was after hours, and had to get the job done, and of all the fittings I did have, I was apparently out of the one I needed. The other was a situation involving somewhat "specialty" fittings. The customer had purchased a retrofit kit to upgrade a pump, and it did not come with all the fittings I would need. They were basically pool style fittings and I dont normally do pool work. The pool shops were closed and didn't have the style of fittings I needed anyway because the repair was being made on a custom built medical machine. The customer did not want to repipe the entire machine and needed it up and running asap. The best option was to re use existing fittings. I've found an easier way to remove them involves a heat gun. Just make one slice into the od of the fitting, being careful not to cut into the actual pipe as mentioned, and heat it up. It will be as soft as butter and usually peel right off. It can then be cleaned, primed, and reglued as normal once it cools down. They also make drill bits that will do all of this in about 5 seconds. They will drill out the old pipe leaving behind the appropriately sized socket to re glue a new piece of pipe. They're good for under sinks when replacing p traps and there's really nothing left to work with. Hope this helps someone.
I like how he is going to "paint it to protect the joints" after banging the hell out of the old pvc and copper joints. You just rattled the whole system. Not worth it. Will lead down a rabbit hole with bigger problems.
Jo Bu painting it is to protect the pipe from UV (sun), it helps with weathering and weakening the pipes over a longer period of time, not to keep the joints secure or anything like that
Oh boy we have a "real plumber" here who doesn't know basic weatherization & aesthetics. It's plumbers like the one in this video that cover up the jobs of terrible ones, earn 5 star reviews & gets tips.
Great video, love all the comments.lol. all chiefs no Indian. There's so many ways to do this job. You use what you have on site cause who wants to drive all the way to home depot for parts.
You can only do this if medium-set clear or gray glue was used originally, correct? Hot glues, like your blues and wet-dry teals, work via solvent weld principles to make a stronger connection. When the fitting has been removed, you'll have lost some of the OD of your pipe, and not have enough left to make a sound connection in a constant pressure pipe. Put some purple primer and glue on a piece of pipe, and wipe it off, you'll see you'll lose PVC. Personally, I'd never use gray glue on an always pressurized fitting, I've repaired too many failed gray and clear glue fittings in my 38 years in irrigation and plumbing. Unions are quite beneficial in manifolds where there is no usable pipe for repairs between fittings; or in iron or brass assemblies to prevent cutting into the pipe to start a repair. With copper they're not always necessary but can be nice to have. PVC is so easy to work with I wouldn't put one in such an easily accessible length of pipe - they're aesthetically unappealing and an extravagance. Just cut the vertical pipe down low and put in a coupler, and maintain the clean visuals up top with your 90 and male adapter, or sch. 80 nipple into a sch. 80 SxT 90. You could sell an beneficial upgrade by running the downstream side in copper all the way into the ground, and replacing the vulnerable above-ground valve manifold with one underground in PVC, with sch. 80 risers going into your anti-siphon valves.
Damn tambourvideo we totally see eye to eye on this. I hate putting couplers in visible places because it screams repair or mess up. I should see if it works on the red hot glue! I honestly haven't tried it on that. Well really I've only done this a few times in the field. Always in the middle of the night when nothing is open, always for some odd ball schd 80 fitting that you can't get anywhere other than a plastic supply store, always for a business that will loose tons of money if the water isn't back on by 4 am! We should hang out man!
That's helpful and I hope I never have to do it. I got these fittings that are called pipe extenders, but they are really space savers (my name for them). One end fits inside a PVC pipe and the other end fits inside a fitting. I got them for 1.5 and 2 inch PVC. I don't know if they are available for smaller diameters, as is the case this guy is demonstrating. They are supposed to add Zero length to the situation, but usually add about 1/8 to 1/4 inch. In this case, you would cut the male adapter where it meets the pipe, slip the 'extender' in, screw in a new male adapter and then glue the extender into the new fitting. I love 'em. But, like I said, I don't know if they come in 1" or 3/4". Thanks for the Video. G
You critics posting on here are completely missing this man's point of presentation! Do everyone else a favor, next time you have a thought, just let it pass!
awesome video! practicality first class. everyone is in a hurry these days, they'll pass over an option to learn, and save enormous time but revert to the standard form a line, gotta stay in line and follow the leader, hahaha, gotta think outside of the box sometimes, i've built good truck motors from 2 i'd found in the desert, one had a piston crown stuck sideways from the wrist pin coming out of the piston. the cylinder on that one had a 1/4 inch gouge in the liner. the other motor had a crank pin that wore past the bearings (the owner of that one must of drove an hour with a pretty good knock. just by luck the motors were the same bore, it was a datsun 1600 pair. did some swapping of good pistons onto the good rods and crankshaft, i used all the old seals, main seals, rings and bearings and gaskets except for the head and exhaust gasket, i bought an oil filter and oil. the cost was 17 dollars, i did it on the garage floor. the motor had slightly low compression but was consistent across the board, good oil pressure and no leaks. i did the same thing to 2 different transmissions by swapping the tail extensions and transmission shafts to fix a cracked case, on the coffee table in the house, it took a couple weeks, the house smelled 90 wt for a month, but i didn't have to hold the stick shiift to keep it from popping out. i put a yamaha IT 250 piston in a honda Odyssey motor just by putting the yamaha ring in the honda cylinder bore, it showed almost no clearance, i filed the ring, the piston was very tight (i used a bit more oil and raised the needle a notch, the differences on the piston intakes were one had a split window and the other was a complete cut out. i didn't even check the exhaust port timing by measuring the pin to the top of the piston, had it been off just a fraction it wouldn't have ran at all, it didn't cost anything, i had the yamaha piston laying around. wait come to think of it i even used the old base gasket that had crack in it, glued it with some shit. compression was a beast, to pull start it, was like thump...thump...and crack it was running, i rode that for a couple years. and sold it. sometimes just winging it works better that all the time worrying about following the rules and directions.
I do have issues with PVC unions developing leaks. I just replaced one with copper. I am thinking a Shark Bite coupler or 90 would work even better because they do allow for the pipe to turn so a threaded fitting could be unscrewed. Haven't tried it yet though.
PVC tips and Tricks: From those of us who have had to manage this type of problem and everyone interested: Thanks for a very practical and satisfying video!
No problem! I posted to help get someone out of a bind to buy them more time to get parts while keeping a system up and running!
I've done pool PVC plumbing for a half century and "Fitting Chipping" can sometimes mean the difference between a 30 minute and two hour plus repair due to how tightly a manifold's fittings are stacked. The observations that this is a "silly" repair are valid, but it was an easy and visible way to demonstrate the technique. The other half of my magic bag of tricks is several sizes of "Rambits", a propeller-like reaming tool that removes *just* the pipe from inside a glued fitting., leaving it ready for a new section of pipe to be reglued into the old fitting!
My only suggestions are:
I have found a single, 45 degree, diagonal slice down to the pipe makes it easier to sneak the chisel under the pointed end of the "collar". I can often get fittings to spin off in one piece by just working the chisel forward, a tap at a time. (Then again, I'm usually working in 1-1/2" or larger.)
This has the benefit that you can make this cut first, leaving the connection intact and better supported, then make the through-cut last.
Unless I actually need to compensate for shrinkage or expansion of a plastic part that must be reused, I've stayed away from teflon tape for about 40 of those 50 years. I find a joint stick or a PVC compatible thread sealant to be far less prone to leak. Even if properly laid and wrapped and with no evidence of "spinning" by the teflon with the female side, they can still disappoint. If the teflon *does* grab and spin with the female side...always start over.
Nice video!
__________Use a small amount of of pipe dope on male (and female) threads, then wrap with a little teflon. I have had to go back on my co-workers "teflon-only" joins, buried 18'' under the ground!!! and fix them. Pain in the arse!! As for chipping... once you've got your 45 degree slice....heat the fitting without making it soft ( take your time) and the slip joint tends to peel off when using your tool.
This technique is especially useful on pool manifolds!
@@JeffMTX _________sometimes it works...sometimes ya gotta head to the supply house
So out there are half a century of pool plumbing that will fail soon (or has already). Please stay away from professional plumbing.
I live in a very rural area. Roads become impassable in big storms. Sometimes we cannot get out for a week. This is a good idea, I will remember it. As it so happens, my main water pipe (galvanized) had rusted all the way thru and broke off during a huge storm. Couldn't get out, the roads were out. I (single woman farmer) could not get the rusted pipe to unthread. I tried everything, cheater bars, rust spray, etc. So finally what I did was I went and got the Perma-Wrap I always keep on hand. I cut the vertical pipe off just below the rusted thru area. I JB welded a 3/4" PVC cap on. The I used the Perma-Wrap. Perma-Wrap makes two kinds of repair tape. One for pressurized and one for non. This repair is good for up to 300PSI. Life saver kind of stuff for me.
Its nice to run across others who think outside the box and are familiar with all the constraints involved with making emergency repairs.
Thank you for your comment! Most comments are from people who didn’t get the point of the video that it’s for emergency repairs not for everyday repairs! I posted it to help people like you and me who have been in these situations.
Elementaldomain You're a single woman farmer that works on plumbing?! You're my dream come true?!!😁 God bless you! 🙏
@@rickhinojosa5455 LOL - I work on everything. I built my own house and all out-buildings, by myself, and maintain them, as well as grow a lot of my own food. Now at 75, still going strong. Life is Grand Indeed! Peace Be Upon you also!
@@Elementaldomain That's wonderful!! And 75!! I hope I'm up and running still when I'm 75. Have twenty years to go to find out😱. That's right around the corner, really. You know how time flies! 🙏
@@rickhinojosa5455 Observing life around me, it seems to be a matter of consciousness that determines whether we always remain productive. It is subtle, but if you look closely you hear people saying all the time, in one way or another...well, they use age as a excuse they can't do something. It is almost as if they were waiting their whole life to use age as an excuse to be lazy. And they reaffirm that when speaking with each other "well, you know I can't expect to do the things I did when I was young"......statements like that, Speaking their Word, creating their own false realities.""
I actually feel better now than when I was younger. I had many physical illnesses when I was younger but I just kept going anyway, kept reaffirming that the body is whole and it can not know anything but Perfection. And now, it is. I haven't had so much as a sniffle in 30 years. So, a long reply to your reply but saying don't "hope", make it so. Every time you hear someone making those limiting statements, just reaffirm to yourself that they are not so for you and that you do not accept their false realities. Peace Be Upon you.
Brother thank God for you. You have no idea the headache I went through last week trying to fix my union. Mine broke on the opposite side and I had to repair the entire pvc pipe to put in a new union. Now my other union is breaking on the other side due to sun damage. I wish I saw this video last week. Would have saved me a boat load of money, time, energy and stress. Thank you for this video. I just ordered that part. Godbless you brother
Good luck Marcus
People seem to miss that this is something you can do in an emergency situation where the supply stores are closed and you still need to return the customer's/ tenants water services. Good video thank you.
Don't have tenants, or customers. He had the new nipple didn't he?
first of all there wasnt a major leak so and where do you live where all of the plumbing stores are closed when it aint an emergency
Yeah ad he still could've used a hose with clamps a
Until getting the proper fixtures. You either know what your doing or you dont
This internet DIY is making it great for those of us that really know what were doing.. know what were doing
I was plumbing on Midway Island which is in the middle of the Pacific Ocean 5000 miles from Kawaii and I had to make a 3" MIP so we glued a piece of pipe into a coupling so we could insert into the pipe threader and threaded 1 1/2" from end of coupling and then I did what you just showed to get rid of pipe from my new MIP.
Dremels and oscillating tools are really nice today for doing this type of work. Thanks for sharing
Thanks Mark!
Got to say a big thank you for posting this method for removing a already glued on PVC fitting. This saved me a bunch of work as I needed to what I thought was replace a leaking section of my pool pump 2" plumbing with a union on it. But it turns out the union has been discontinued so I had to keep and re-use the female part of the union which had a section of pipe on it with a broken slip-PT fitting on the end. I thought there was no way to get that fitting off the end of that pipe. But your method worked like a charm using a dremel tool to cut the grooves in the broken pvc fitting. It came off pretty cleanly with a chisel after that. I sanded the pipe, and re-glued it into a replacement fitting....whallah! Done! Thanks again !!
Thanks for sharing. I made the video to help people in sticky situations I’ve been in as well
next episode he shows you how to replace the bent leaking copper pipe hes banging on.
This video is meant to help the people who have the time and feel like saving some cash!! Thank you uploader , I learned a new trick today!!
a coupling and a 90 cost about a buck. not saving much.
@@dvdcnly It is more about the time and gas to buy the parts you don't have. If the nearest open store is 45 minutes away this makes a lot of sense. I would definitely recommend never screwing metal threads into a plastic fittings though. They split very easily.
PIPEFITTER since 1981. What you did was especially awesome for someone in the field, short on time and fittings and need this job done. All the customer wants is it done fast and done good and that's exactly what you did! A quick way to make an easy $65 on this service call if you're an independent. Painting PVC exposed to the sun only does it good and extends it's service life, keeps the pipe fresh. Ignore the hater's coming on here, you did good!!
He is using the chisel upside down. Flat side against work piece drives the chisel in further, use the angle side towards the work and you should end up with hardly any gouges....
exactly!
true story
I'll third that motion...
Thanks I didn't Know that.
Thanks for the video! There are lots of videos showing how to remove pipe from fittings (preserving the fitting), but not many showing removing fittings from pipe (preserving the pipe).
No problem Cliff thanks for the comment!
I have read a good number of the negative comments about this repair video. I for one, am thankful for any small bit of information I may someday need to use in an emergency. Please, cut this guy some slack, he demonstrated a method that will work if you do not have the proper parts, nothing more nothing less. I am from the US and I think most repair techs in first world countries will agree and understand what I am about to write. I have lived the past 5 1/2 years in the Philippines. I see things in plumbing and electrical work almost daily that will make PRO installers (and code enforcement) cringe. Still, it functions and works for these folks. In my own retirement project home and just one day ago, a shower unit fell from its holder and broke off a deteriorated valve on the wall. The water supply to the home had to be shut off as NOTHING is installed with cleanouts, shutoff valves etc. etc. I had to open a hole with a brick hammer and pointed chisel and dig out some room around the plastic supply line. I was able to cut off the jagged pipe with a mini-hack hacksaw blade holder and a hacksaw blade. A very tight fit in the solid cement wall. My "repair" was made from parts on hand in the middle of the night while I was placing trades in my IRA accounts. A 90-degree elbow, a plastic ball valve and a few small odds and ends restored water service in the CR (comfort Room). I would call my efforts UGLY AS HELL but it is beautiful to my wife and family. NO ONE in my home complained when they woke up for school with water available in all three CRs, "dirty" kitchen and the main kitchen. My wife kissed me and commented how blessed we are to have the home we own, the smarts to repair/ remodel and "even municipal running water." A large number of folks here have no idea what "real" running water is. Chill out guys and appreciate the high standards of life you enjoy.
If you ever do, when you glue it back up, glue it then push it in then pull it back and wait a bit then re-glue the hub and pipe then push it as hard as you can and hold it there until the glue sets up enough that it won't back out, been plumbing for 42 years and know all kinds of tricks.
Absolutely correct Harold. I had one shot to make this repair or it would have been a much longer project to chip out tile and solid mortar from around what little supply line I had access to. Work here in the Phils is NOT done with any forethought to long-term maintenance or repair.
I have the same problem up here in Alaska, to many guys that claim to be plumbers and I wouldn't trust them to plumb a outhouse.
"Plumb an outhouse" now that speaks volumes to the skills of some self-proclaimed experts. Thank you, Harold, you made my night (it is 3:30AM) here in the Phils) with that one.
glyn hodges ya something as simple as running water and sewage systems are just taken for granted. Everyone should be forced to clean out a septic tank or the likes to bring them back down to earth. I wouldn’t go that far but you know what I mean, people are just ignorant.
I have been working with both conduit and water lines for over thirty years, but I still like to see if someone knows a better way to do things. I have had to learn much on my own, but i have also learned better ways to do something and it helped me increase my own skills by looking at how someone else does it. Sometimes I find my way is best, sometimes I find another's way of doing something is best, so I either stick to my way, or adopt another way, but I appreciate it when someone shows their way of doing it, and it helps a new Tech to learn. Thanks for showing this!
You can use a heat gun to heat the coupler you are removing. You only need to cut one slit. Heat it up so it’s slightly soft then use needle nose players to roll up the coupling you are removing. Kind of like the old sardine can. This helps insure from damaging the rest of the piping from the shock of hitting it with the chisel/hammer combo. Older pvc gets brittle and can easily crack where you don’t want it to.
Great ides thanks
Every workman has their style. I would use a small chisel to get a grip on the edges, then a nose plier to twist off the portions. I've had to do this several times. The pipe is what you have to protect. The fittings are expendable. Good job!!
Very good job son. There are those of us out here that understand what you are talking about .Thank you for this video .
Good job
You are the only person I have seen on TH-cam that wraps the Teflon tape the way I do. I find it easier to feed off the back and hold the starting end by holding like you do. 👍🤙✌️😃
Nice video. I've used a heat gun and been able to get fittings apart. Just take your time and it will work great.
Hey come on guys give this youngman alot way more credit than what you people is giving him he is teaching his way his video to teach people a way of doing this great job well done
I've been a plumber for over 40 years. I've does this on occasion, but IMO its not worth the effort on this particular job. Just cut below the 90 and add a coupling and short piece of pipe. There have been jobs where this procedure was necessary though. Nice video.
As many have noted, he states in the beginning that it's a fix you can do if you're in a jam - not that in this case he was in said jam. It's a demonstration, instructional video.
As if....you dont listen well Tom.
@@jimdavis9836 Jam or not, there's a Home Depot around every corner, or Amazon.
@@mitchd2040 There are many places in this country … rural for example … where there is not a Home Depot or Lowes or any hardware/plumbing supply "around the corner", and Amazon is going to take at least a day or two, so it's a great tip that can solve a problem.
Listen first before comment
People read THE TITLE of the video!!!!!!! We all know how to do the job the normal way, He's taking the time to show us what to do if we are in a situation where we can't get a part "Like Right Now" "Great Video".......... ~PVC Tips and Tricks~
I was waiting for one of those copper joints to fail with all that movement.
Post thought; ...and for you 'pros' out there who thought he was nuts for illustrating this method for 'quick' fixes, try being three hours from your shop, after hours, and having your last hack saw blade break.
I wound up using a piece of "string" to cut a 6" pvc pipe off that I was plumbing on.
Worked great!
Learned it from a missionary who had to do it in South America.
memyself ... Yes.
You take a long piece of heavy duty thin string and tie a finger loop at each end.
Place it around the pipe and begin rapidly pulling it back and forth in a sawing motion in the same spot.
After a few seconds, it begins to cut through the plastic like butter due to the friction and heat.
@@dailf.melton4502 I've actually used this tip to cut pipe where a blade wouldn't fit. I've only done it once but it came in handy.
Love how you post a video to help people and they all suddenly become experts. Nice job👍
It’s all good Bill! I did it too try and help someone stuck in a bad situation. I’ve come to enjoy all comments no matter how harsh they are. Have a good day!
Thanks for this. I can't tell you how many times I've been faced with the same problem and I just cut off the whole pipe and reconfigured it.
Glad it helped, but I would only use it in an emergency!
I did it same as you today, this is my first time do plumbing , but I fixed it
I can't believe that worked, but it did! I would do anything to avoid all that work, but like you said, if you don’t have the right parts, can’t get the right parts, and times a-wastin', you do what you gotta do. Amazing.
And you will be coming back again to re-do it, when the new part he glued on the gouged pipe comes off or leaks there. Do it right, so you don't have to do it over. If, for some reason it needed the leak stopped temporarily until it could be done right, take some rubber tape, wrap it around the leaking part, and fasten a hose clamp over it. It will stop the leak well enough for a few days or weeks.
I've made a similar repair and used a flat head screwdriver to pry off the old fitting after cutting channels into it. Less chance of gouging the pipe I'm guessing. Also used Blue Lava PVC cement. Great job!
I use the flathead screwdriver also
Don't mind the hate. The same plumbers who criticize you (who clearly don't know what they're talking about) are the "real plumbers" that do shit jobs that force us to hire people to redo. This is why I hate contractors in general & choose to do most jobs myself because a majority of them are garbage. The comments here only confirm it! I enjoyed learning a new technique. Thank you!
You got it! You want something done right. Gotta do it yourself. Within reason. Lol
Agree with Kimbo...
Just sharing something that saved my butt a few times until I could do it right! I wouldn't do this if I had the parts and there was nothing urgent waiting for the water!
I have done many plumbing jobs over the last 50 years and did not know you could do this and it seems to work better than I would anticipate BUT unless the joint comes apart where you can reuse it again with no leaks, it is far easier to start again with new pieces as they are not that expensive and plastic is cheap. I have reused copper before but in finishing a job and wanting no leaks after first assembly would be using new parts is the fastest and best way to do. Only if you have a dire problem and are 30 miles away from any Home Depot or others would I attempt this. Also if you are a real do it yourselfer and do home repairs you normally have "spare parts" you did not return and can accommodate your plumbing issue. But this video is well received and another idea to keep in mind because you never know when it could come in handy!
Nice option. Not everyone has a heat gun. However, when using the chisel, use the angled edge against the pipe. It won't gouge the pipe you want to save.
One can also use the side of the chisel as a scraper. I was cringing when he had the taper up; waiting for the gouge.
Are you suggesting heating the glued joint will cause it to weaken so it could be removed? That would be much easier and cleaner, I would think ... should have been mentioned as an option.
Ive been an irrigation tech for a long time. The reason you dont do this is because pvc glue on pvc is considered a permanent bond. To reuse a section in this way means it will surly fail again. The pvc glue actually melts a layer of the pvc pipe and thearfore it will break or leak in the future. Dont do this please
I would only do it to keep critical things running while you get the parts for a real fix
@@pvctipsandtricks768 What kind of 'critical' pvc connection would you operate with a compromised bond when you can go get a couple fittings and some more pipe for a few bucks at ANY hardware store in the country? ... You know they make straight in line fittings and clamp things that are literally like a dollar and you can clean cut and glue back to any length you need.
Also, using a chisel like that eventually your going to learn to handle it carefully and never brace work with you hand forward of the chisel right when you impale you hand with it. We all learn the lesson that way.
Really useful video - thanks. This was the only way I could have done the job on a 2 inch PVC pipe where the fitting was flush back to the wall of a sewage tank with no spare pipe without the need for expensive excavation. Saved me a lot of unnecessary cost. Thanks again!
Thank you for your post! You are the exact reason I made the video, knowing someday it would help someone with no other options. I had plenty of options where I made my video but it was just to show how it can be done!
I get the impression that this young lad works for an irrigation company and is not a plumber or even had proper or sufficient training in plumbing materials and methods. I give him credit for holding a job and doing his best.
They let me go and its been rough ever since. I still love sprinkler though, I can't help but run through them even if I'm on the clock!
My pops showed me this trick when i was young. There are many scenarios where this may come handy. Will also give you props for putting that towel to catch the adhesive. Great job, bro.
ChikyBoy Yup same here, learned this hack in 1976,Lol.
I have done this in a pinch to get something going, but I look at it as a "temporary fix". There's a couple reasons why this won't achieve the full strength of a proper joint. Ideally, the dry fit is very snug, because the glue does not really hold it together. it is the PVC itself from the pipe and fitting that create a "weld" of PVC and the glue is more like the method of dissolving the PVC. Using this method on a very well made PVC joint, is not so easy because done right, the pipe and the fitting become one part. If it peels off easy, it really wasn't a great joint.
Another downside to this repair is that without being able to twist the joint and work the dissolved PVC, you just have glue holding it together. This indeed will hold up, but you technically give up some of the spec strength. Odds are that you aren't going to use it at max pressure or max heat, so you'll probably not notice what spec strength you gave up.
I've seen people glue up one piece after another without thinking about really needing the twist part of making a joint. Ideally, when this was assembled, the last glued section should have been the vertical pipe. But I've watched pros do it wrong and not just DIYers.
Personally, I don't like using PVC pipe to make something that can't be dissembled. And your idea of putting a union in the vertical, is what should have been done in the first place. Or having a union or other fitting that can be dissembled in the steel pipe. I like to view it as if it were all rigid steel pipe and use the same function fittings but with PVC instead of steel.
The one word you used that made me a bit uncomfortable was, "customer". I really hate the idea of a "pro" using these kinds of shortcuts and not doing it right. But plumbing is even worse than electrical in the US where we have "installers" vs, trained and certified plumbers and electricians. More often than not, we have general contractors who may buy a "license" but are not even skilled or certified in the trades they contract. And they employ "self proclaimed plumbers and electricians". In reality, these folks are really just "installers" without the in depth training and certification. Sometime you will find some of these guys who have a lot of experience and also spent their own time to learn technically proper theory and standards. But as a customer, you have no way of knowing this. It is far too common in the residential market while in industry, they tend to use trained and certified tradesmen.
I agree 100% that this is only to be used in a pinch. For instance I did it at midnight when I didn’t have a SCHD 80 reducer fitting that I couldn’t pick up at a store at that hour or any hour of the day in the town I was working in. I did this repair then the next weekend when I had the correct part I redid that section with new parts. I kept a dialysis clinic running all week on that repair while I got the correct parts. I’m not doing this for pay by the hour customers. These are quoted jobs for weekend remodels and if you don’t get it working hundreds of patients have to find new centers that will do their 3 time a week treatment to keep them alive.
@@pvctipsandtricks768 Thank you for that info, I have helped people out similarly doing what it takes to get them through a crisis and coming back to help them make a proper fix. I'm an electrical engineer by career and quite a long one at that. As a young man I used my hand skills a lot but as my career developed, I became less about doing and more abut planning, managing, troubleshooting and teaching. But I have long been a DIYer just to keep doing some work with my own two hands. I was a firm believer that if I learned well enough, no one could do it better than I could.
I learned a lot from old time tradesman and books and classes. As I managed multi-million dollar projects and direct the work of dozens on tradesmen and other engineers, I still enjoyed my time in my shop, doing as much of my own work as I could. As I went into semi-retirement, I started teaching. Mostly Electrical but closely involved with other trade crafts through our group and at the community college. I still go some custom classes too for employers trying to improve the skills of their maintenance people. Mostly electrical, but quite a bit of mechanical too as I have a broad range of industrial knowledge and it seem that students love how I teach.
Being an engineer at heart, I emphasis doing stuff the right way, but I also teach some little tricks to help get through a crisis, while insisting that the job isn't done until it is fixed correctly.
I have some mixed feelings about all the TH-cam videos by people who think they know what they are doing or try to show shortcuts to doing things correctly. I sometimes make comments to try to emphasis the right way and why we do things the right way and according to standards. As you can probably tell, I'm not really happy with how the residential building trades have devolved. Too many places allow substandard work by untrained people. And too many people watch a video or two and think they are electricians or plumbers.
Take pride in your work and strive to learn the right way to do things, not just the quickest or the cheapest ways,
Takes less time & effort to just cut the pvc, add a coupling, elbow and new male adapter
Or just a coupler.
yea you already have to go get a new ma so get a coupling too
Walter Evans exactly. Hey, time is money. I could have did this the normal way and been at the next job! But hey, this might save your ass where you can’t cut and use a coupling. Like a stub sticking out of a basement wall.
I have to agree, that is a lot of work to save a coupling.
@@Cotronixco The problem with that is that you retape and twist the top part back in, with the elbow and a nipple (left from the cur).You have to finish with the nipple DOWN, which means you aren't really feeling the proper tightnesss. I have done it, I just don't like it. Much better to replace everything up from the union.
This worked perfectly to repair and replace my union connection on my pool pump. It was easy like you described, I carefully used a dremel to make the cuts due to lack of space to work. Great video thanks
Glad to hear it worked for you! Thanks for letting me know.
Wow seems to be a lot of critics on this video. I have used the procedure you have described and 5-10 yrs later it's still water tight. I stock all size fittings and pipe I need but a few times I have found myself without the needed part and this technique will work if you are careful. I use heat to remove pipe from a "need to save" fitting up to 6" and it works great. Maybe if you started off stating that this technique is good for an emergency situation or a non critical repair that won't flood a house or waste huge amounts of water if it does fail then there would have been less critics. The main problem I have would be to use this technique if fresh fittings and pipe are available.
I'll make sure to stay away from your work. lol
Not how i would have made the repair but for someone with little to no experience, great tip to get them started in repair plumbing. I would have used my torch to heat up the fitting and peal it off the pipe. Just dont burn up the pipe. Threading plastic to metal, I use pipe dope. Teflon tape has caused cross threading on me in the past.
This video is to show that you can in fact undo a glued fitting and keep the same pipe that was glued into the fitting. It is not the easiest way to make a repair and not the best way either. I do most of my work with SCHD 80 PVC inside of medical facilities. These parts are generally not available at most hardware stores, so if you run out on a weekend there is no way to get more. I try to build things with no couplers unless the run extends beyond 10ft. My customers and I will generally see unions as a mess up or a place where a repair was made so we try and avoid them. This form of repair can help keep things looking perfect, but like I say in the video I only use it when I have no other option.
PVC Tips and Tricks This is useful for hot tub repairs too, where a coupler can't be added, and the part it's attached to that you need to save is expensive . My cousin also showed me that heating the bad piece with a torch works too
well said
PVC Tips and Tricks l
PVC Tips and Tricks Faazzzzxzf
PVC Tips and Tricks do it right, or dont do it all... Otherwise. Teach a prepper
Recommendation. Before reglueing your pipe. I would sand it with your wet n dry sand paper you use for copper piping. Emery cloth. Maybe even rough up your fitting with a wire brush then do all your priming. You did a very good job in explaining how to do your pvc water repair with piping that has pressure applied when finished. Your technique is also very useful with plastic drain piping. One very good technique you are using is when a plumber has to replace a toilet flange. We have all seen that rotted out toilet flange. Your technique can be used for a street type fittings also. Good job.
for people with negative comments remember the title "How to undo a glued PVC fitting" not try to save $1.50 or time. Good vid thx
How to undo a glued PVC fitting properly: Cut it out and replace it, even if you have to go to the store and buy more parts, in this case a 25 cent coupler (he has the pipe, the elbow, and the threaded adapter fitting.) Simple as that, any other way is doing it WRONG.
You were talking about using unions where you can't unscrew something. I use a "poor mans union" under all my sprinkler valves: Pipe-Female, male-pipe, short piece of pipe, pipe-male, female-pipe. Then when you need to change the valve, cut out the short piece of pipe, unscrew the two male-female joints. Then to replace it, screw in the two m-f's and slide in a short piece of pipe as you shove the valve down on the new short piece of pipe. actually it takes twice the number of parts as I mentioned, because you do the inlet and the outlet at the same time. It doesn't look as bulky as the unions, and I always have these parts on hand, unlike unions.
Thanks for sharing
You taught me a new technique. Wonderful! I’ve never seen this before. There’s a million ways to do anything. This is one of the million of ways that can help someone. Thanks for an excellent video. You did a fantastic job!
Man, I hate it when the plumber is too cheap to include a union. Like no one is ever going to have to maintain the system. I see you have a lot of negative comments but I've worked HVAC maintenance for a large school district running one urgent call after another. Time spent packing up, driving to a vender and back is time you could use repairing other equipment. So, you cut corners but you're a pro and you know what works. I've done some amazing temporary repairs I was proud of to get equipment online and keep the facilities in business. Oh, I think I just had a flashback. Time to destress. 😁
Haha I love that you get where I’m coming from! Most haters have never been in the situations we have been in. I’ll do this kind of fix to keep a company up and running all day to make their money and come back with the right parts later!
I like the idea of union couplings, but most valves can be rebuilt on site without having to replace the entire unit.
PVC trips and tricks: Thanks for the instruction. I have a pressure gage threaded into a PVC 1" Tee between two 90's and only a few inches on either side of the 1" Tee. The PVC is split where the gage threads into the 1" PVC. The 1" Tee needs to be replaced. This idea might work better than cutting, coupling, gluing which will look really bad
And as for some of the snotty remarks on this page, Some people just have to be argumentative or obstinate little babies and need to grow up. Thanks again.
A lot of city people here.....Home Depot less than 5 miles away. Pavement all the way.
Thanks for this good video ... If available, it seems a Dremel tool would make the cutting of the notches easier.
I've used this method with a Dremel tool multiple times servicing & repairing pool as well and hot tub & spa equipment. Dremel tool is the key with using the chisel properly.
I'm 65 years old and never saw that done. This video was a great learning experience even at my age.
Pete_ Hine_Of_PA
As a plumber for 30 years I can tell this seldom works if the pipe and fittings were cleaned and glued together correctly. He got lucky.
I realize it was kind of a demonstration but there were way better ways to fix that. In fact all that pipe looked flimsy for being outside. I certainly would have cut the pipe and installed a new joint someplace and while it was apart fix that threaded end. I'm not a plumber, I don't like doing it except for necessity. Thanks for your reply. If you don't have fittings on hand, I doubt you'll have fairly fresh glue and glue primer on hand either. Regardless, either keep that stuff on hand, or make a trip to the store. If my glue is more than a month old, I buy fresh glue if the joint is going to be hard to get at or not out in the open. I also ruff up the joints with course steel wool. Thanks for your reply, appreciated.
Pete_ Hine_Of_PA
👍
I agree! I learned something. And it wasn't long and drawn out. Good video.
Richard G farmer
This particular situation isn't an emergency, and that's a lot of work to repair a drip just to save a few dollars. Be that as it may, you didn't replace a nipple, you replaced a male adapter. Also, when you glue two pieces of plastic together you're supposed to push them together tightly, turn the piece 1/4 turn and hold it for thirty seconds so the fitting is seated correctly and the glue doesn't push the fittings apart. Using unions to install valves in an excellent idea. You should have used a union to replace the male adapter as well, that way the job would have been done easier, faster and properly.
I learned a new technique.i once did a similar 5job.lucky for me i have a heating gun to use.i just heated that part with old glue and the glue had softened so i pulled the fittngs right away .took out the threaded part cleaned added a new teflon tape .then put all back together.THANKS for the VIDEO.
You made it harder then it had to be.Leave the pipe connected cut the slots then cut the connction so you have a hold point.
Also this method prevents pieces of pipe from going down the open pipe.
exactly
@@viewome It’s not really an open pipe in this case, there’s a ball valve immediately after the connection so not really much concern of pieces being lost forever here.
He could have turned the comment capability on this vid off, but he left it on so the people with valuable info to contribute even though a few had no legitimate info but chose to add it anyway. Great job.
Well, he got the idea across, but to avoid the gouging of the pipe he should have turned the chisel over with the taper against the pipe so the cutting edge would be flat against the pipe he was cleaning. Just a thought!
I knew you were legit when I seen you holding the roll of T Tape the correct way. Nice video bro.
Haha thanks
Since the fittings are usually the expensive parts and the straight pipe sections are cheap/easy to replicate, using a "fitting saver" drill bit is probably going to be a better (and far quicker) option. That would let you re-use the elbow and even the nipple (after you re-tighten it) and simply re-cut a new short 4" piece of straight pipe section. The "fitting saver" drill bits can be a little expensive, but they are a one-time purchase and can be used again for future jobs.
Thank you so much for showing me this way I used to cut the PVC and it didn't take less time adding a coupling it took a lot longer The reason being is cuz I always measured wrong. This way the measurements already there and all I have to do is add it I used a Dremel to cut the little grooves which I think was a lot better if you have one but if you don't of course there is a hacksaw but a Dremel works fantastic
Awesome
thanks for the video. Nice tips. Of course everyone has an opinion. Remember the title is "How to undo a glued PVC fitting"
Here's the way I get the pipe off. I cut the slots using a multi too when I can. Then I insert a flat bladed screwdriver into a slot a give it a quarter turn. It usually pops it off cleanly. Good video; well done.
Thanks GK!
Hi I’am 70 years old learn plumbing in Mexico, my father in law . Good Mexican plumber, did the biggest jobs in my home town, juaritos, he tough Me how to reuse the fittings, like that, when I was 17 .. only quicker.. w/ heat gun is 10 times faster, trough out my career I surprise the hak out my upper,/management, how fast , They can retest water; on a floor where they had failures, I retired from Local 412, industrial plumbing, done it on 6”and8”, thanks to that trick and, more that good plumber though me,I survived Lay offs... only one cutt 2 if is 4”or more, use the heat gun, grab the tip of your cut, w/ channel locks. And it will peel clean,
i thought i was the only one that used a heat gun dammit
@@daryljones9946 Damn i hate to rain on your parade, but i have used this method as well! lol
Any consolation, i thought i was the one myself! lol
I always carry enough product in my van. It's a rolling supply house. I always have 20 or so extra fitting in my van.
One viewer suggested adding heat to release the fitting parts. I have found that you can also apply liberal amounts of pvc primer to aid the release of the glue. The primer softens the glue/pipe boundary. My method is to slit the pipe as in the video, then dab on the primer and then the fitting pieces pry off much easier. This would be good if you have no access to power and a torch can't be used due to fire prevention issues. Good video.
Good video, can I suggest you turn the chisel other way so that the bevel edge is face to plastic, less likely to mark plastic.
Absolutely! That way it "skims" the pipe surface.
glad I'm not the only one this annoyed.. no experience with a chisel IMO TURN IT THE OTHER WAY!!
Yep, that is what I was about to say. That's how it's done when using wood. Also, need to use a mallet as opposed to a steel hammer.
A lot of people will probably say say too much time and effect. But, great innovation as I am the same in doing things. I was going to suggest that you add a union but you beat me to it at the end of your video. Wherever there are screw fittings, I like to add unions for possible future repairs and to make it easier for me or another guy in the future.
I’m a plumber and if someone used a primer and also glue for that connection there’s no way this would work that creates a weld also a real plumber would have taped and doped the mip anyways to prevent this leaking in the first place
Also only the male gets glue. When you glue the female side, the male pushes the glue in and clumps. Eventually breaking off and clogging further down the line.
@@rodneydavis7958 thats a myth
The video subject was helpful as it met his need. And, it takes courage to put your work up for others, especially if you get torn apart by folks who don’t know a gimbal from a spindle. What drives me nuts is that so few presenters actually practice by going through the motions a couple of times. In addition place tools in order and then edit the video. There all sorts of free easy to use editors and add audio to the finished video. Sure it takes a little more time, but hey, this made it to at least 3,800 viewers with over 660 comments.
Ensure you have some brace or support for the pipe you are trying to remove the pieces off or you will end up with more of a problem by breaking that pipe. Always walk with a piece or two of 2x4’s.
Removable couplings are always recommended for major areas like the area shown here or pool joints by the filter or pump as well.
Thanks
Great video, thank you for sharing it. I am replacing an old pipe, I don’t know if the pipe is galvanized or cast iron, Howe, I have question how can I remove the old piece of galvanized from a pvc which is attached to an elbow a plastic elbow I am assuming is PVC. Thank you
You could cut the pvc pipe to allow you to spin the threaded fitting off of the pipe if there is enough room to allow it to spin off. Then repair the pvc pipe with a coupler once you are ready to put it back on.
I had a similar situation..I heated the outer fitting and took my time. Peeled the outer fitting off the stem...re glued a new fitting.
That's what I would do to!
If this helps anyone then it was well worth it. I always use a pipe cutter. I'd use a hack saw if I didn't have a cutter for a smoother cut. Good Job!
Alternatively to chiseling would be using a flat blade screwdriver nested in the cut channel, then simply twist while prying up the cut piece. Using the screwdriver to pry up the fitting remnants as gently as possible as the pipe may be very strongly adhered in places around the fitting. I've had to set a hack saw blade next to a protruding piece,flush with the pipe, and saw away the last bits of fitting, then a utility knife cleans the pipe for re-attachment. Tedious but doing what must get did is how we roll.
Nice work buddy. I've had to do that before on a male adapter coming out of a PVB just like you showed in the video. Tideous work and takes patience but it may save you from having to come back the next day to get the system back on. Don't listen to the haters, they don't get it....
Repipe with a union on the vertical run so next time you need to fix a leak or replace the valve it's a fifteen minute job.
He did say that at the end.
Ive used a dremil grinder before and they work too.not critical of your methods just telling whats worked for me .thanks for video
this is good for 3 or 4 inch pipe where it would save a lot of time and money ,I have used this method for 30 years ,but in this case just replace the pipe
Good tips, thanks. I am not a plumber, but for the few things I have done I try to plan for the future, so I would have added some unions and work space in the design if possible.
Tom, unions cost more and make the next repair waste less time.
Real plumbers charge for a full 10' length of pipe even when all they need is 1". Cut the 1" piece off and put the 9'-11" piece back on the truck.
Gluing you should quarter turn the threaded pipe and push at same time.
Regardless of the cost of the fittings, when you don't have them and can't get them for whatever reason; this is a great solution! The naysayers apparently didn't hear him say that.
OR, a quick fix is wrap the leak with rubber tape, and put a hose clamp over it. Probably will hold LONGER than this fix.
Handy video! I can understand that there are use cases for this technique. I get the critique that this easily accessible and isolated, non-critical irrigation system is not one of them, but he had to show it somewhere. I may use it where it is desirable to save the PVC stub, like something embedded in a concrete slab or coming out of an expensive valve or other fitting. The thing that made me cringe every time he did it was using the sweated copper assembly as a backup for the chiseling operation! Bang bang bang up against the free-standing pipe and what an invitation to cracked solder joints, metal fatigue, heaven knows what else lurking inside the crawlspace. DIY plumbers: confine torquing, bending, whatever stress you're putting on the pipes to the work you're doing. Otherwise you run the risk of creating a leak in another part of the system. In this case he could have put a Workmate or sawhorse underneath. Even just stuck a 2x4 of appropriate length under it or against the house.
I appreciate your inventiveness but is the time and effort worth the cost of a few fittings and a small length of pipe?
This is for a situation where you need water but don’t have the parts. It can buy you time to get them. For sprinklers this will probably never happen but there are different types of PVC used in different industries where this might be done in a bind to keep water supplied to a system while you hunt down parts they don’t sell at hardware stores
When you was threatening that fitting on, put more tape on the back and less on the front,clean the pipe thread out with a wire brush used for cleaning pipe fitting, just some tips I thought I would share, good Video though ,,
Thanks Art
Great idea!! So much neater than cutting the pipe, adding a coupler and elbow.
Oh man Doug only do it when you are in a bind to buy you time to get the parts to do it right!
@@pvctipsandtricks768 so true, but still a great tip. Thanks for sharing
Have a good day Doug and thanks!
A great video for most part. First, I would use a pair of pliers to remove the fitting over the chisels. To me, it seems to work easier and faster. Second, I would rather use the purple primer and glue over the clear and gray which is also recommended. Also seals much better for water and such. Third, I have noticed that there were four unions that were placed incorrectly. I thought I bring this to your attention just in case you may have missed that part. It happens to the best of people some times.
A what video? ? Title should be: How to charge/rip off your customer $50 MORE by WASTING TIME instead of cutting it off and adding $2 in fittings...
it's unreal to see how many people think they're so smart in criticizing this guy when all he is trying to do is give another option to deal with a glued fitting IF in a jam. If you think in life you'll never need a plan B you're either delusional or have been breathing too much pvc glue.
Thank you for this video. I glued pvc fitting for years and always thought they were fused by the glue into one piece. At least now I have another option IF I'm stuck but of course plan A (new fittings) is always the better option.
The guy put this on here to show someone who is in a bind a way to do a repair. It's pretty simple, if you don't like his method don't use it. But at the same time don't bash him for offering up some information. If you already know so much about that type of repair you shouldn't be looking up how to videos about it in the first place.
Power washer repair
Yes...they should show some respect. He may have used all fittings on last job and is 20 miles from supplies
We have to have some one to mock, don't we?
@@dansmith221 that's called not being prepared for your jobs.
AKA : Handyman
I must have atleast 20 of each fitting in my van. From 3/4 to 1-1/4
@@dansmith221 ok he showed what to do in a "pinch" but for 29 cents at menards or Lowes he could have 15 or 20 minutes of his life back. And, if 20 miles away, you should keep some "stock" on hand ! !
grey glue is used for schedule 80 pipe...the pipe in your demonstration is pr-160 and you might want to use a wrench to tighten the male adapter...hand tight just doesn't insure a good fit...the teflon tape is wrapped from the end of the threads inward and then back to the end of the threads......wrapping the tape five times causes the tape to bunch and does not allow the male thread to fully seat into the female fitting....
Thanks for sharing the knowledge John!
Appreciate the sharing but the cost of time and labor exceed the cost of PVC. Cut it off and put on new pipe.
And put in a union while you’re at it. That way removal is easy the next time.
Yes pvc is cheap and generally not worth the time to save fittings. I personally have run into a couple of situations where I had to save the fittings though. One was like he mentioned, it was after hours, and had to get the job done, and of all the fittings I did have, I was apparently out of the one I needed. The other was a situation involving somewhat "specialty" fittings. The customer had purchased a retrofit kit to upgrade a pump, and it did not come with all the fittings I would need. They were basically pool style fittings and I dont normally do pool work. The pool shops were closed and didn't have the style of fittings I needed anyway because the repair was being made on a custom built medical machine. The customer did not want to repipe the entire machine and needed it up and running asap. The best option was to re use existing fittings. I've found an easier way to remove them involves a heat gun. Just make one slice into the od of the fitting, being careful not to cut into the actual pipe as mentioned, and heat it up. It will be as soft as butter and usually peel right off. It can then be cleaned, primed, and reglued as normal once it cools down. They also make drill bits that will do all of this in about 5 seconds. They will drill out the old pipe leaving behind the appropriately sized socket to re glue a new piece of pipe. They're good for under sinks when replacing p traps and there's really nothing left to work with. Hope this helps someone.
This is absolutely nuts. Third world for sure!
For emergencies only definitely not for a repair where you have everything you need
I like how he is going to "paint it to protect the joints" after banging the hell out of the old pvc and copper joints. You just rattled the whole system. Not worth it. Will lead down a rabbit hole with bigger problems.
Jo Bu painting it is to protect the pipe from UV (sun), it helps with weathering and weakening the pipes over a longer period of time, not to keep the joints secure or anything like that
Oh boy we have a "real plumber" here who doesn't know basic weatherization & aesthetics. It's plumbers like the one in this video that cover up the jobs of terrible ones, earn 5 star reviews & gets tips.
I really liked this, there are times when you only have a few fitting around the house and don't want to waste half a day going to the store.
half a day going to the store--where do you live? Siberia?
Great video, love all the comments.lol. all chiefs no Indian. There's so many ways to do this job. You use what you have on site cause who wants to drive all the way to home depot for parts.
You can only do this if medium-set clear or gray glue was used originally, correct? Hot glues, like your blues and wet-dry teals, work via solvent weld principles to make a stronger connection. When the fitting has been removed, you'll have lost some of the OD of your pipe, and not have enough left to make a sound connection in a constant pressure pipe.
Put some purple primer and glue on a piece of pipe, and wipe it off, you'll see you'll lose PVC.
Personally, I'd never use gray glue on an always pressurized fitting, I've repaired too many failed gray and clear glue fittings in my 38 years in irrigation and plumbing.
Unions are quite beneficial in manifolds where there is no usable pipe for repairs between fittings; or in iron or brass assemblies to prevent cutting into the pipe to start a repair. With copper they're not always necessary but can be nice to have.
PVC is so easy to work with I wouldn't put one in such an easily accessible length of pipe - they're aesthetically unappealing and an extravagance. Just cut the vertical pipe down low and put in a coupler, and maintain the clean visuals up top with your 90 and male adapter, or sch. 80 nipple into a sch. 80 SxT 90.
You could sell an beneficial upgrade by running the downstream side in copper all the way into the ground, and replacing the vulnerable above-ground valve manifold with one underground in PVC, with sch. 80 risers going into your anti-siphon valves.
Damn tambourvideo we totally see eye to eye on this. I hate putting couplers in visible places because it screams repair or mess up. I should see if it works on the red hot glue! I honestly haven't tried it on that. Well really I've only done this a few times in the field. Always in the middle of the night when nothing is open, always for some odd ball schd 80 fitting that you can't get anywhere other than a plastic supply store, always for a business that will loose tons of money if the water isn't back on by 4 am! We should hang out man!
That was awesome you saved at least $2
That's helpful and I hope I never have to do it. I got these fittings that are called pipe extenders, but they are really space savers (my name for them). One end fits inside a PVC pipe and the other end fits inside a fitting. I got them for 1.5 and 2 inch PVC. I don't know if they are available for smaller diameters, as is the case this guy is demonstrating. They are supposed to add Zero length to the situation, but usually add about 1/8 to 1/4 inch. In this case, you would cut the male adapter where it meets the pipe, slip the 'extender' in, screw in a new male adapter and then glue the extender into the new fitting. I love 'em. But, like I said, I don't know if they come in 1" or 3/4". Thanks for the Video. G
You critics posting on here are completely missing this man's point of presentation!
Do everyone else a favor, next time you have a thought, just let it pass!
Most plumbers know this trick. It is a waste of time. So you shut up mr. Man
@@nathanleathers4793 most plumbers wouldn't be looking up how to do this. This is for the home repair diy'er.
awesome video! practicality first class. everyone is in a hurry these days, they'll pass over an option to learn, and save enormous time but revert to the standard form a line, gotta stay in line and follow the leader, hahaha, gotta think outside of the box sometimes, i've built good truck motors from 2 i'd found in the desert, one had a piston crown stuck sideways from the wrist pin coming out of the piston. the cylinder on that one had a 1/4 inch gouge in the liner. the other motor had a crank pin that wore past the bearings (the owner of that one must of drove an hour with a pretty good knock. just by luck the motors were the same bore, it was a datsun 1600 pair. did some swapping of good pistons onto the good rods and crankshaft, i used all the old seals, main seals, rings and bearings and gaskets except for the head and exhaust gasket, i bought an oil filter and oil. the cost was 17 dollars, i did it on the garage floor. the motor had slightly low compression but was consistent across the board, good oil pressure and no leaks. i did the same thing to 2 different transmissions by swapping the tail extensions and transmission shafts to fix a cracked case, on the coffee table in the house, it took a couple weeks, the house smelled 90 wt for a month, but i didn't have to hold the stick shiift to keep it from popping out. i put a yamaha IT 250 piston in a honda Odyssey motor just by putting the yamaha ring in the honda cylinder bore, it showed almost no clearance, i filed the ring, the piston was very tight (i used a bit more oil and raised the needle a notch, the differences on the piston intakes were one had a split window and the other was a complete cut out. i didn't even check the exhaust port timing by measuring the pin to the top of the piston, had it been off just a fraction it wouldn't have ran at all, it didn't cost anything, i had the yamaha piston laying around. wait come to think of it i even used the old base gasket that had crack in it, glued it with some shit. compression was a beast, to pull start it, was like thump...thump...and crack it was running, i rode that for a couple years. and sold it. sometimes just winging it works better that all the time worrying about following the rules and directions.
Good video and one more reason to own a Dremel tool .
Just come back later with the part of keep a generous supply on-hand.
i use my 3" diamond blade instead of hand saw. also anyone who has done a lot of pvc will inevitably need to use this technique.
Couldn't do without my Dremel and the Flexi shaft.
Excellent video...I really appreiate your very clear explanations. As a homeowner, I will use your technique a lot. Thanks!!!
Do this as a last resort! Use new parts whenever possible!
Is it really wise to pound on that (old) metal water piping like that? (Otherwise, great idea. Thanks.)
pound?? isnt that a weight?
No, it's money!
+gwyzagain - 100% Hahahahahahaha, right! Protect that " Hard " Pipe with your life!
+bill45colt - No..... Pound - (Verb) - to have vigorous sexual intercourse, on the giving end. Or you can " pound " your meat! LMFAO !!!
No
I do have issues with PVC unions developing leaks. I just replaced one with copper. I am thinking a Shark Bite coupler or 90 would work even better because they do allow for the pipe to turn so a threaded fitting could be unscrewed. Haven't tried it yet though.
Great idea