Arc'teryx 395A Harness Break Test! How strong is this expensive lightweight harness?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- Lorenzo DeMuro donated his 3.5 year old Arc'teryx 395a climbing harness to SlackSnap and we tested the belay loop, waist belt and leg loops. Arc'teryx did NOT sponsor this video.
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Great video. The gear loop is stronger than I expect. The CE standard for belay loop is 15 KN. So 19 kn in this test is pass the standard.
if im not mistaken most belay loops are made to withstand 22kN which is kinda overkill :)
I wonder how strong my cheap camp energy nova climbing harness's belay loop is. It looks kinda flimsy compared to some of the expensive harnesses
Watching that makes me wonder what the break point of a human waist would be! Not volunteering to get in the machine but 13 kN is a lot of force on hip bones or a spine.
They need to break test a climber
The parachute model is 12kN for severe body damage (broken bones etc).
books.google.com/books?id=dnwCEgahJmUC&pg=PA236&lpg=PA236&dq=12kN+parachute+standard&source=bl&ots=35E73rTfJO&sig=ACfU3U230-IjlCA4GjZyv_dpnf0YWdGGYQ&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjOlJjzvqzxAhXStp4KHUW6DKYQ6AEwEXoECBIQAw#v=onepage&q=12kN%20parachute%20standard&f=false
@@pentachronic Still better than death, though.
Would love to see a petzl sitta break test :D
Oh man, it is brutal to be breaking $200 harnesses haha. Want to sponsor it??? :) We have other (normal) harness break tests done that are coming soon.
Now si 130€
i have a big gun blackdiamond harness and i love it extremely comfortable
Greate Video. I would like to ask you to test a PAS on belay loop or tie in point.
Did you try sample "420" before recording? ^^
i have a 10 year old harness that i mainly used for indoor climbing on toprope. Got into lead and outdoor climbing last year. Do you have any videos that tests harness that old? It is way past expiry date, but I'd rather not replace it if I can, because most of these things last longer than the manufactures stated claims
I'd like to know what kind Ryan uses. Might get a Waldo or long haul
Nice! Good test. Thank you)
nice job Ryan
Hay Ryan wear do I buy some of your gear T shirts stuff to help out the channel I love watching you blow shit up thanks for all the info you provide us on the gear we all use
Do slack liners only tie into the belay loop and not the two hard points? Y'all fucked up this test for that reason and that the friction of the soft shackell on the loop is enough to pinch and cut due to the high friction due to force. The climbing harness belay loop is factoring in the stretch of the rope while belaying, this is why we use dynamic rope...
People have died by girthing to their belay loop on their PAS and rubbing a weak spot, a bad enough weak spot that snaps when rappelling.
To sum it up. Tell people to tie into two hard points (Belt and leg loop points, where the belay loop goes through), not just the belay loop. That belay loop is for belaying and rappelling only, 15kn is enough to catch a fall with a dynamic rope and much more than enough to catch a whip off of a slack line with the dynamic nature of the line itself; however, it is not redundant.
You know about redundancy, and mention it in other videos, tell folks to tie in properly. Check your knots.
Can you please explain why every week I place my life in the trust of one little material loop?
I feel like I want some redundancy.
Is it really that reliable?
if its 19 why tie into the leg loops and the belt. Both of those together is less than the belay loop.
For stability reasons I think.
Can you test a repelling harness??
Is it safe to use a 8 year old harness that was only use 3 times and than place in a storage
Probably
Probably assuming it hasn't come into contact with petrochemical fumes and hasn't been chewed on by mice/rodents/insects.
But then again is it worth the risk considering you can get a harness for starting at $60 or so ??
because you asked the question, the answer is no. Because you don't know.
The only way to actually know is to do a test like this video.
I suggest throwing it out. Not ever worth it.
Doesn't most climbing equipment have a 10 year life time?
Excuse me how do you stretch the rope between the two mountains when you do slackline?
we get a tag line across the gap 1 way or another, pull our webbing over, fix it to one side, then use a webbing clamp and pull it with pullies and that gets inserted into what we call a weblock to hold that webbing in place. We use two webbings for redundancies and two rings that we tie into that slide across the webbing so we are able to do it safely. Check out our videos as we dive really deep on how to rig them up. Rigging examples are some of the best start to finish episodes
Look up Tyrolean traverse and read all about it.
Why dont they just put a soft shackle as a belay loop then
They can be undone, and the loop used to be stronger anyways
Hey yo!, attached it the next vid to a carabiner not to the amsteell ‘ish whatever,thats makes frinction and lose proper cut to the strenght*. Cheer broda
carabiners are not strong enough. I didn't think the loop would break less than a carabiner but if i did that the carabiner would be compromised and I couldn't use it again anyways. The soft shackle did not compromise the belay loop, a carabiner would have been narrower pinching the belay loop more and reducing the strength more. Many people girth hitch personal anchors to their belay loop, same idea. Soft on soft isn't bad if it isn't moving.
@@HowNOT2 you may be suprised if you chose to use an industrial carabiner (with higher strength than the soft shackle). I think he is right about their being innate heat buildup when pulling. Even the slightest movement under high force will cause heat, not to mention the forces are far less evenly distributed soft on soft.
The point is that a hefty enough carabiner would rule out any of that. (18KN carabiners are readily available)
How do I get into this stuff without looking like a dirtball carny?
Get a haircut :)