I agree with you on the term "slop".Since it is basically a nick name for "play" and wear in the mechanism.But I think it is important to note that Lost motion is the unwanted play between key combinations. And that end and lateral play ,(which is what you are describing),is totally different.Its obvious that you know what you are doing,but its just important for people to get there terms all straight so there is no confusion.Great method by the way.Have to try this on those pilot pivot screws
I might not play clarinet, but my girlfriend does, and we love your videos. She just showed me this and it cracked me up. In short, thanks for being the man.
If he knew what he was talking about he would be grateful for such a terrific method of silencing pivot screws that will save him an enormous amount of bench time, makes the clarinets, saxophones and bassoons he works on much quieter for six or seven times longer and can easily and quickly be repeated when needed. In other words, it would make his work easier, quicker and better---Alas, no good deed goes unpunished.
I can't wait to be enlightened. I'm sure it'll be great, since it's from someone who takes themselves so seriously. I'm glad you do, since no one else does.
Thank you Tom for sharing us all those tips. I can use them all. I have you book (Educators guide to the clarinet) and it's fantastic. Keep it doing that way! Best from Slovenia. Robert
Ok I did this with the second finger key on the top joint and it worked great. As soon as I find my .05mm hex wrench I'm going to do the bottom joint on my Leblanc. I once had a very expensive repair where the screw holes were drilled out and filled with teflon, this was faster, WAY cheaper and better. I wish I had done this before a recording session last month! Once again the online "Claretic" speaks the truth! The dolls were borderline creepy though. Please no clowns, I'm afraid of clowns
"You're going to take pointy thing, and you put it right in the hole... and you pack it right in there." Sounds like you're giving some very useful dating advice right there! :D
Thanks, Billyboy!!! You saved my marriage, my children respect me now, and even the cats like me better!!! Seriously, though, this is a great idea. It's less intrusive than other options available, and if your correct, it'll probably last until the cows come home!
This method is simple and effective. I've used it many times with great results. It's truly a shame that so many technicians cling on to medieval techniques from sixty years ago when there are much better solutions. It would be insane to suggest repairing a hairline crack with pins and bands instead of modern super glue, why should this issue be any different? Thanks for the tips, Tom. Please keep them coming.
Also, I have friends who are techs I have shared this method with. They have used it with great results--even adding heavier gauge teflon tape to bassoon and saxophone pivots and made them quiet and tight. Don't pay attention to the bullshit criticism you hear from many techs. They're either looking out for their bottom line or they simply don't know what they're talking about.
I wasn't aware there was a formal lexicon for repair terminology. Wonderful. Where is this authoritative source from which you pontificate? Personally, I've always been fond of the term "slop". It covers it all. All that aside, a rose by any other name is a rose, and this method is superior; quick, permanent and easy. Too bad the lexicon makers didn't think of it before me. I'd rather know this method than quibble over syntax. But after your enlightening comments I now know both.
I'd like to add this too Tom and anyone that want's it done correctly. Teflon won't last. A good repairman wouldn't be cheap about pivot screws, especially on a good clarinet! A good repairmen would have metal meet metal for a sure fix! You have to swedge it and have the right tools. I just don't think you have the right tools to show anyone this method that we use. Maybe I should tie your shoes, dress and fix your lunch too!
Teflon will only work on pivot screws, not on straight screws. Straight screws are found on other model clarinets and there are plenty! Naturally, this will work on pivot screws but try this on a screw that has a straight smooth barrel shaft at the beginning with the thread near the end. NO ROOM MY FRIEND!
Actually...The movement betweent the end of the hinge tube and the post is called "play".There are two basic types of "play".The most common is "End Play".This is when the gap between the hinge tube and the post is too big causing a left to right movement.The second is "Lateral Play". This is when the hinge rod(or in this case, the pivot screw) does bot fit tightly in hinge tubing of the key key,Causing a side to side (for lack of a better word) "wobble" in the mechanism.
That teflon trick is brilliant. How did you come up with it? I once played on an Alto saxophone that had a very loud noise coming from one of the posts. My local tech couldn't fix it, said that the screw was the wrong size for the thread (it was a Taiwanese instrument but it was pretty good regardless). I gave up and sent it back to the person from which I bought it. It was a big hassle and some less than positive air. If that technician had known about it, he could have probably fix it, in less than the duration of this video and even have some time to spare to play with barbie dolls... thanks for putting this video up.
Just FYI: Repair techs hate this method. Why? It takes money out of their pockets and puts the control in the hands of the player. This method is the best way for silencing pivots and removing motion. Other methods leave metal on metal and the clarinet is noisy again in a few months. I've seen clarinets I've used this method on after two years of playing with no noticeable wear. I'm a tech myself. I've done artist clarinet repair for 30 years for some of the best players in the world.
I am a clariNUT that finds himself in Africa at the moment. There are no repairmen to speak of. Could you give me a quick tip on changing joint corks and some pads. Did I mention I have no pads? No I don't! Thanks for your help!
Hello Mr. Ridenour, I have a very old LeBlanc Noblet wooden clarinet that I played 40 years ago. I need to take it apart, clean, replace pads, corks, and springs for my granddaughter. I'm fairly certain I can do that, but I'm not sure what to use to clean/oil/refinish the wood. Any direction would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
I've always thought that slop was slop, in all its forms: up,down, side to side, end to end. Actually, what I'm describing it both types of "slop", I just used a term as a blanket term that doesn't precisely cover it all. I hope no one is psychologically or emotionally damaged from hearing itat least not permanently.
Use traditional methods perfectly and the clarinet sounds like a rattle trap again in only a short while. In contrast, I've seen teflon filled pivot recesses after a year & even two of hard use and the mechanism has NO play and is quiet as a mouse. If it wears, replace it with fresh teflon in minutes and go for another two years +, all the while metal against metal rattles away. Try it before you criticize. I fix my own lunch,, thanks!
That's where you have to be a little creative, but it's very complicated. You may not be up to it. You have to, take a file and round the edges of the end of the straight screw. Then put in the teflon, adjust the screw and go on living as normal, or as normal as you can---MY FRIEND! Try this. If you can make it work, get back to me and I'll tell you how to tie your shoes.
I will post my own repair videos and educate you and others. I always do things harder than you. You think I'm a half wit? I've been taught by my father who will turn 89 in Dec. (quite a bit older and wiser). He has worked in various repair facilities in the 50's including Selmer in Indiana. I'm just tired of people like yourself ridiculing things like the old cleaning swab that you think is "dumb". Be prepared to watch soon!
If you know so freaking much make your own videos to help and enlighten others. Lot's of critics not many doers....There's a reason: doing something is harder, and you always risk being harassed by half-wits whose comments only expose their lack of knowledge, inexperience and rudeness.
Well, he actually has no points. His objections are not thought out and he doesn't see the simple solutions to the points he brings up---and I don't think he's really tried this procedure and seen the long term benefits of it. This procedure does not work on straight pivots but 1. they can be easily and quickly altered and 2. most players who see this vid have tapered screws. My sense is he's afraid such a great solution done by the player will cause him to lose business. But I could be wrong.
I just glanced at the comments hear and literally could not believe the nonsense that was spouted.......and the personal criticisms of Tom's expertise are just hysterical. When you've written a complete pedagogy on the clarinet and gone to Paris to design a line of clarinets for one of the French makers come talk to us. Outrageous. I'm glad the vast majority of players appreciate the advice being given. clarivid 91 clarinet repair and maintenance ridenourclarinetproducts.com/r%26mdvdcontent.html Theirs two links to the repair and maintenance DVD's that Tom recently completed. These DVD's will save you an enormous amount of money in that you will be freed from having to go to the repair tech over every little issue and as you can see from the 2nd link......it's not just small repair jobs that are addressed but also larger issues you may encounter. We've had people buy the DVD's and tell us that they've started to develop, or at least are on their way, marketable skills based on the content in the DVD's. Ted Ridenour
I agree with you on the term "slop".Since it is basically a nick name for "play" and wear in the mechanism.But I think it is important to note that Lost motion is the unwanted play between key combinations.
And that end and lateral play ,(which is what you are describing),is totally different.Its obvious that you know what you are doing,but its just important for people to get there terms all straight so there is no confusion.Great method by the way.Have to try this on those pilot pivot screws
I might not play clarinet, but my girlfriend does, and we love your videos. She just showed me this and it cracked me up. In short, thanks for being the man.
I was reveling in the joy of a nice slice of bread and- then came you!! This is the greatest tip ever,I have 4 Saxes to get to!!!
If he knew what he was talking about he would be grateful for such a terrific method of silencing pivot screws that will save him an enormous amount of bench time, makes the clarinets, saxophones and bassoons he works on much quieter for six or seven times longer and can easily and quickly be repeated when needed. In other words, it would make his work easier, quicker and better---Alas, no good deed goes unpunished.
I can't wait to be enlightened. I'm sure it'll be great, since it's from someone who takes themselves so seriously. I'm glad you do, since no one else does.
Thank you Tom for sharing us all those tips. I can use them all. I have you book (Educators guide to the clarinet) and it's fantastic. Keep it doing that way!
Best from Slovenia.
Robert
Ok I did this with the second finger key on the top joint and it worked great. As soon as I find my .05mm hex wrench I'm going to do the bottom joint on my Leblanc. I once had a very expensive repair where the screw holes were drilled out and filled with teflon, this was faster, WAY cheaper and better. I wish I had done this before a recording session last month! Once again the online "Claretic" speaks the truth! The dolls were borderline creepy though. Please no clowns, I'm afraid of clowns
"You're going to take pointy thing, and you put it right in the hole... and you pack it right in there." Sounds like you're giving some very useful dating advice right there! :D
Thanks, Billyboy!!! You saved my marriage, my children respect me now, and even the cats like me better!!! Seriously, though, this is a great idea. It's less intrusive than other options available, and if your correct, it'll probably last until the cows come home!
This method is simple and effective. I've used it many times with great results. It's truly a shame that so many technicians cling on to medieval techniques from sixty years ago when there are much better solutions. It would be insane to suggest repairing a hairline crack with pins and bands instead of modern super glue, why should this issue be any different? Thanks for the tips, Tom. Please keep them coming.
Also, I have friends who are techs I have shared this method with. They have used it with great results--even adding heavier gauge teflon tape to bassoon and saxophone pivots and made them quiet and tight. Don't pay attention to the bullshit criticism you hear from many techs. They're either looking out for their bottom line or they simply don't know what they're talking about.
Very interesting.
Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for the tip William, I will try it.
I wasn't aware there was a formal lexicon for repair terminology. Wonderful. Where is this authoritative source from which you pontificate? Personally, I've always been fond of the term "slop". It covers it all.
All that aside, a rose by any other name is a rose, and this method is superior; quick, permanent and easy. Too bad the lexicon makers didn't think of it before me. I'd rather know this method than quibble over syntax. But after your enlightening comments I now know both.
I'd like to add this too Tom and anyone that want's it done correctly. Teflon won't last. A good repairman wouldn't be cheap about pivot screws, especially on a good clarinet! A good repairmen would have metal meet metal for a sure fix! You have to swedge it and have the right tools. I just don't think you have the right tools to show anyone this method that we use. Maybe I should tie your shoes, dress and fix your lunch too!
Teflon will only work on pivot screws, not on straight screws. Straight screws are found on other model clarinets and there are plenty! Naturally, this will work on pivot screws but try this on a screw that has a straight smooth barrel shaft at the beginning with the thread near the end. NO ROOM MY FRIEND!
Actually...The movement betweent the end of the hinge tube and the post is called "play".There are two basic types of "play".The most common is "End Play".This is when the gap between the hinge tube and the post is too big causing a left to right movement.The second is "Lateral Play". This is when the hinge rod(or in this case, the pivot screw) does bot fit tightly in hinge tubing of the key key,Causing a side to side (for lack of a better word) "wobble" in the mechanism.
Really funny and I don't even play the clarinet (well, just Stranger on the Shore).
That teflon trick is brilliant. How did you come up with it?
I once played on an Alto saxophone that had a very loud noise coming from one of the posts. My local tech couldn't fix it, said that the screw was the wrong size for the thread (it was a Taiwanese instrument but it was pretty good regardless). I gave up and sent it back to the person from which I bought it. It was a big hassle and some less than positive air.
If that technician had known about it, he could have probably fix it, in less than the duration of this video and even have some time to spare to play with barbie dolls...
thanks for putting this video up.
thank you soooooo much.
that problem was a nightmare form me with my clarinet .
but how about the noise with the long screw? can you give us a hint?
Just FYI: Repair techs hate this method. Why? It takes money out of their pockets and puts the control in the hands of the player. This method is the best way for silencing pivots and removing motion. Other methods leave metal on metal and the clarinet is noisy again in a few months. I've seen clarinets I've used this method on after two years of playing with no noticeable wear. I'm a tech myself. I've done artist clarinet repair for 30 years for some of the best players in the world.
I am a clariNUT that finds himself in Africa at the moment. There are no repairmen to speak of. Could you give me a quick tip on changing joint corks and some pads.
Did I mention I have no pads? No I don't!
Thanks for your help!
Sorry for the basic question, whtas is the bet way to clean the metal of a clarinete?
a screw of the lower pads seems to be defective.i can barely force it to press down hard enough to close it to change notes
Hello Mr. Ridenour, I have a very old LeBlanc Noblet wooden clarinet that I played 40 years ago. I need to take it apart, clean, replace pads, corks, and springs for my granddaughter. I'm fairly certain I can do that, but I'm not sure what to use to clean/oil/refinish the wood. Any direction would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
Try the Doctors Products in GA USA
When a man is desperate he'll try about anything. Okay, maybe the dating thing won't work. But the key silencing does. And one out of two ain't bad.
I've always thought that slop was slop, in all its forms: up,down, side to side, end to end. Actually, what I'm describing it both types of "slop", I just used a term as a blanket term that doesn't precisely cover it all. I hope no one is psychologically or emotionally damaged from hearing itat least not permanently.
my clarinet keeps playing my top notes on a high octave,could it be because i got a cork fixed on it?
Very helpful
Use traditional methods perfectly and the clarinet sounds like a rattle trap again in only a short while. In contrast, I've seen teflon filled pivot recesses after a year & even two of hard use and the mechanism has NO play and is quiet as a mouse. If it wears, replace it with fresh teflon in minutes and go for another two years +, all the while metal against metal rattles away. Try it before you criticize. I fix my own lunch,, thanks!
Funny! thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it
Lost motion is totally different than Play in the mechanism.
hahaha this is the best repair/tip video!!! hahaha
what i will do if my clarinet tune is incorrect? my sol tune becomes lower
go from high c downwards to your g, and practice. you may be using the wrong partial from the fundamental tone
That's where you have to be a little creative, but it's very complicated. You may not be up to it. You have to, take a file and round the edges of the end of the straight screw. Then
put in the teflon, adjust the screw and go on living as normal, or as normal as you can---MY FRIEND! Try this. If you can make it work, get back to me and I'll tell you how to tie your shoes.
I will post my own repair videos and educate you and others. I always do things harder than you. You think I'm a half wit? I've been taught by my father who will turn 89 in Dec. (quite a bit older and wiser). He has worked in various repair facilities in the 50's including Selmer in Indiana. I'm just tired of people like yourself ridiculing things like the old cleaning swab that you think is "dumb". Be prepared to watch soon!
If you know so freaking much make your own videos to help and enlighten others. Lot's of critics not many doers....There's a reason: doing something is harder, and you always risk being harassed by half-wits whose comments only expose their lack of knowledge, inexperience and rudeness.
Yea, I had to pay a rental fee to my daughter...steep.
rofl the barbie dolls
lolz tom....
lol
you have issues you probaly haven't had a date in 175 years
Well, he actually has no points. His objections are not thought out and he doesn't see the simple solutions to the points he brings up---and I don't think he's really tried this procedure and seen the long term benefits of it. This procedure does not work on straight pivots but 1. they can be easily and quickly altered and 2. most players who see this vid have tapered screws. My sense is he's afraid such a great solution done by the player will cause him to lose business. But I could be wrong.
no good.....it's not a technical solution
I just glanced at the comments hear and literally could not believe the nonsense that was spouted.......and the personal criticisms of Tom's expertise are just hysterical. When you've written a complete pedagogy on the clarinet and gone to Paris to design a line of clarinets for one of the French makers come talk to us.
Outrageous. I'm glad the vast majority of players appreciate the advice being given.
clarivid 91 clarinet repair and maintenance
ridenourclarinetproducts.com/r%26mdvdcontent.html
Theirs two links to the repair and maintenance DVD's that Tom recently completed. These DVD's will save you an enormous amount of money in that you will be freed from having to go to the repair tech over every little issue and as you can see from the 2nd link......it's not just small repair jobs that are addressed but also larger issues you may encounter. We've had people buy the DVD's and tell us that they've started to develop, or at least are on their way, marketable skills based on the content in the DVD's.
Ted Ridenour