Your comment about switching to brush painting for the camouflage points up something that many people don't think about when working with a scale model -- the camouflage on the real vehicle painted with spray guns may have inch-wide feathering at the edges of the colors, but on a 1:285 tabletop tank, that feathering is going to be less than 0.09mm wide; there's no way you're going to get that amount of precision with an airbrush, and even the 0.7mm for 1:35 models can be pushing it; brush painting will produce hard-edged patches, but that's what you're going to see from a distance to make a real vehicle the same perceived size as a tabletop miniature.
Another great video. Most of the Vallejo range of paints have been lightened for 1/35th scale, which means they are too dark for 1/100th scale. An easy way to compensate for this is to add 1 drop of ivory to 4 drops of your main colour. In this case, it would be 4 drops of NATO green and 1 drop of ivory. When I have a number of 15mm models to paint up, I don't use filters or glasses. In this case , to tonally balance the camouflage colours, I add a tiny amount of NATO green to the NATO brown and black for a similar effect. I totally agree that when working with 15mm models, the contrast needs to be pushed.
![[GUIDE TO ACRYLIC LAYER PAINTING]- Most Important Skill For Miniatures, Models, Dioramas & Wargames](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/qBSPTGdBYA8/mqdefault.jpg)
![[GUIDE TO ACRYLIC LAYER PAINTING]- Most Important Skill For Miniatures, Models, Dioramas & Wargames](/img/tr.png)
Just pre-ordered the new Team Yankee US starter set. Super excited to get to painting them!
Awesome. It looks like a great set! American mech Bradley infantry is probably the formation I play most in TY.
Your comment about switching to brush painting for the camouflage points up something that many people don't think about when working with a scale model -- the camouflage on the real vehicle painted with spray guns may have inch-wide feathering at the edges of the colors, but on a 1:285 tabletop tank, that feathering is going to be less than 0.09mm wide; there's no way you're going to get that amount of precision with an airbrush, and even the 0.7mm for 1:35 models can be pushing it; brush painting will produce hard-edged patches, but that's what you're going to see from a distance to make a real vehicle the same perceived size as a tabletop miniature.
Thanks! And nicely summarized. I lot of people do not contemplate the theory behind what we do as painters.
Very nice!
Thank you! Cheers!
Another great video. Most of the Vallejo range of paints have been lightened for 1/35th scale, which means they are too dark for 1/100th scale. An easy way to compensate for this is to add 1 drop of ivory to 4 drops of your main colour. In this case, it would be 4 drops of NATO green and 1 drop of ivory. When I have a number of 15mm models to paint up, I don't use filters or glasses. In this case , to tonally balance the camouflage colours, I add a tiny amount of NATO green to the NATO brown and black for a similar effect. I totally agree that when working with 15mm models, the contrast needs to be pushed.
Interesting! Thanks for sharing this!
Can you use the same layer technique using with an airbrush with dry brushing?
Technically yes. The result will not be as smooth or consistent...but if you are going for the rough cast look it would probably work well.