Very rough calculations say that if you are experiencing 22kN, you are probably decelerating at around 28Gs. For reference, fighter pilots pull around 9Gs maxed out.
Please please please test the 'Beal Escaper', love the channel, love your work, love the slowmo rewind on those snaps guys, Thank you for keeping this up Ryan, Bobby, and the team, you guys ROCK (subscribed aaaaages ago, will bring more subscribers once the climbing groups and centres re open here in the UK) 'Beal Escaper' please test it out and break test it, keep up the great work :D
@@HowNOT2 You've just made me realise that even though I spent a decade working on concerts with and for all the big names, it wasn't that I'm immune to fanboying, it's that I only seem to fanboy over people I respect and admire. That's you guys lol (and Lemmy of course 🤘)
We can actually use a good sliding X on 2 anchor points now, without tying knots and get the full width that a sliding X gives you..I picked up a few myself
Why wouldn't you be able to do that with a sling? Besides if you make a double sliding x and make knots closer to the bolts you still have a very big auto balancing area for the rope point while also getting the safety of the knots if a strand were to break for some reason. Double sliding x with knots still give around 50kn which is SUPER GOOD ENOUGH xD
There's an interesting TH-cam video out there that tests mechanicals vs prusiks between trees with much mechanical advantage. (Pulling truck involved) Result: Mechanical failed by shredding rope, prusik failed by SLIPPING ALONG ROPE with no APPARENT damage to rope.(!?)
Love the beal dynaloops. Metolius also makes dynamic pas, if you feel like testing. Surprised you didn't mention the dynaloops / dynamic slings - pas are rated to take multiple ff2 falls while reducing the impact on the climber?
I've been reading about cams with extendable slings (specifically the Wild Country New Friends and the Aliens) and what loads cause the thumb loops to start to kink. Black Diamond has a QC lab article saying they saw their thumb loops get majorly kinked at only 3-4kN but other cams claim to fair better than that. I've taken a couple small falls on WC #1 friends with the thinner dyneema slings (can't remember if they were extended, but probably were) and the thumbloop shape got stretched slightly but I'd hardly call it kinked.
I watch your videos all the time, for several years now, and thought that I was subscribed - because TH-cam pushes them to me. Although I thought I had subscribed before - I am now either for the first time, or again?
I dont climb yet but i still like this channel, probably for the same reason I like the hydrolic press channel, there is something satisfying watching stuff break. Good job making this interesting.
I have one of these. instead of 120cm sling, you need 150cm dynaloop to tie an anchor, because the knot is so bulky ! Heavy, impractical, but I still love it. Have been keeping it in my pack to tie off trees, but it was on my harness when I started multipitch for that extra safety feeling 😂
Intersting. The bigger bend radius of the doubled up might play a big part in equalizing the forces by reducing friction with the shackles. Also the dyneema slings are slippery enough to not be affected by unequal forces.
80% viewers not subs?!?! I have yet to ascend my first line and yet I found the energy to sub after my first view of the channel. Love to Lodi from Texas🤘🏼🤘🏼
How about a reverso break test? im curious about how pulling a person that lost the strength while climbing actually affects the reverso, specially when you belay 2 people and the load on each rope is different. thanks for the good content!
@@MattCooperKay if you've got a device that supports it, it's well worth getting used to it, esp. for multipitch. That being said, learn and practice the lowering methods before you get in a situation where you have to lower a second :) learnt that the hard way
I believe it breaks the rope before the device so belay devices don't really break... just brake haha. But i can test that to see how much it reduces the rope's strength
Great results. Drop test will be sweet on this stuff. Are you going to be building the drop tower with testing over an edge? Or are you considering a roller, anchor system, something else?
It might be interesting to see if a dynaloop tested with the stitching isolated from the system would be stronger, since the stitching seemed to consistently be the point of failure.
Hi Ryan and Bobby, as you have started on the Beal what about doing the other (Petzl) personal anchors CONNECT Adjust and EVOLV Adjust. Although Petzl says the EVOLV is a positioning system not a PAS - what do you say?
Great video like every time thanks guys. Can you test what old cakes that have been rusted can still withstand? Old normal hooks, etc. Can I still trust them? Many thanks for your help.
So your channel has made me curious ... I often place a draw biner in my master point knot or a figure 8 knot that I am rope soloing or jugging on to make removing the knot easier. Does this affect the knot strength? And if knot(not)does it matter where in the knot i place the biner?
Nice test! I have a friend that for anchor he do 2x clover hitches and atach to two carabiners, and one is just for backup so if means that if he falls it will be a fall in just one single part of this loop (half strength). what do you think about it? I think this is the most common scenario for sport roupes because you will be attached to two points of failure;
Interesting that the 4x sliding X failed 'low' (or lower than expected...) I use the same sliding X setup on multipitch sport belays with a Kevlar sling threaded through the rap rings (super fast and convenient to set up and take down). I wonder if one of these Dyna things would be a better option than a Kevlar sling for the stretchiness.
Hi, I wolud love to know much kn stress does hte Beal Dynaloop reduce in the anchor compared with an static system such as a dineema quad. I mean... Lets take the firts example of your video (th-cam.com/video/fZIj5HAV8xA/w-d-xo.html) and say with a dineema the anchor is 3.21 KN the belayer 1.08 KN and the climber 1.92 KN. Are the forces recuded by a lot or is it like nothing? Congrats for your amazing videos!
Hi, I wolud love to know much kn stress does it reduce in the anchor compared with an static system such as a dineema quad. I mean... Lets take the firts example of your video (th-cam.com/video/fZIj5HAV8xA/w-d-xo.html) and say with a dineema the anchor is 3.21 KN the belayer 1.08 KN and the climber 1.92 KN. Are the forces recuded by a lot or is it like nothing? Congrats for your amazing videos!
From watching a few of your videos, my impression is that while climbing you will never get more than 2 kn anywhere. These high kn values seems very overkill, could you maybe make a video about what situations you would need different kn ratings, and then compare it to the gear that best fit these requirement? Using the official ratings, and numbers you've gathered throughout all your testing.
you can easily get more than 6-7 kn on an anchor during a lead fall(i dont know where you got the 2kn number from, the beleyer will allmost never see more than 2kn but its still posible to get 3kn while beleying) and a knot in a sling can reduce the strenght by up to 60% or a sharp bend radius on rope can reduce the strenght of a dynamic rope by 50%. the age of slings or rope can also reduse the strenght down to 16 kn or even more if the rope is dirty. so you combine all of that you can experiance a 7kn lead fall on a sling with a knot that is 5+ years old (so 40% of 16 kn is 6.4kn) so you die. this is an extreme example but all the numbers are not made up but are sorced from youtube videos, scientfic articles and profesional literature(im a firefighter so there are a couple of really quality books available) edit: and its allways beter to have a safety ratio of at least 2/1 but 5/1 or even 10/1 if preferd
@@16m49x3 im sorry if i sounded condesending that apsolutly wasent my intention, i just wanted to point out that a 22kn rating isnt allways safe and if you bellive that you can never generate more than 2kn you could put yourself in some very dangerous situations. stay safe and knowledge is power where my two points to make. p.s. if you could point out what sounds condesending i would apreciate it and i could try and improve for the nex time
@@termivan I'm well aware of safety margins, and I'm well aware that things get worn out... Just not relevant to the topic. This video showed things breaking at 40kN If you want to know where I get 2kN from th-cam.com/video/m8z6adEqaOs/w-d-xo.html it's videos like these.
depends. i try to do the most requested stuff to break test instead of the most convenient or free-ist gear. email me what you got and we'll see if it is a popular request ryan@slackline.com
I enjoy the content of your videos but with your ‘overly-enthusiastic online presenter personality’ I sometimes struggle to understand if you’re being sarcastic or not. For example, do people actually do factor 2 falls onto their anchors all the time?
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Loved the "You've got bigger problems when you get to 22kN than your gear breaking". I always have so much fun watching you guys! Keep it up!
It always feels good knowing we spent all day testing stuff that doesn't matter haha. Stay connected anyway you want and you'll be fine haha
Very rough calculations say that if you are experiencing 22kN, you are probably decelerating at around 28Gs. For reference, fighter pilots pull around 9Gs maxed out.
Please please please test the 'Beal Escaper', love the channel, love your work, love the slowmo rewind on those snaps guys, Thank you for keeping this up Ryan, Bobby, and the team, you guys ROCK (subscribed aaaaages ago, will bring more subscribers once the climbing groups and centres re open here in the UK) 'Beal Escaper' please test it out and break test it, keep up the great work :D
Ok! You got it
@@HowNOT2 You've just made me realise that even though I spent a decade working on concerts with and for all the big names, it wasn't that I'm immune to fanboying, it's that I only seem to fanboy over people I respect and admire. That's you guys lol (and Lemmy of course 🤘)
We can actually use a good sliding X on 2 anchor points now, without tying knots and get the full width that a sliding X gives you..I picked up a few myself
Try normal 6, 8 or 9mm cord (6 only for 3 point pro) you can whip up almost any anchor easy as. The webalette is another thing in the same vein.
Why wouldn't you be able to do that with a sling?
Besides if you make a double sliding x and make knots closer to the bolts you still have a very big auto balancing area for the rope point while also getting the safety of the knots if a strand were to break for some reason.
Double sliding x with knots still give around 50kn which is SUPER GOOD ENOUGH xD
Can you test different grabbing knots (prusik, etc). What kind of load do they hold before slipping?
That's a good easy one we can do during the next batch of tests
Would enjoy this one. Please test the standard 3 wrap prussik, vs 4 and 5 wrap klemhist
Nice one! Would like to see this too
I would add Blake's and Gripping sailor's hitch. While not usual climbing knots they do have uses as end of the line gripping knots.
There's an interesting TH-cam video out there that tests mechanicals vs prusiks between trees with much mechanical advantage. (Pulling truck involved) Result: Mechanical failed by shredding rope, prusik failed by SLIPPING ALONG ROPE with no APPARENT damage to rope.(!?)
Thank you for everything you're doing; saving lives through good information.
Love the beal dynaloops. Metolius also makes dynamic pas, if you feel like testing. Surprised you didn't mention the dynaloops / dynamic slings - pas are rated to take multiple ff2 falls while reducing the impact on the climber?
wait.... you can install bolts on a TREE?? time to start setting routes at the park!
"half the price per gram". 😁
I thought about that on the fly. I'm very proud of that joke haha
I really fucking like where this channel is going.
Love to see more tests of dynamic personal anchors.
I've been reading about cams with extendable slings (specifically the Wild Country New Friends and the Aliens) and what loads cause the thumb loops to start to kink. Black Diamond has a QC lab article saying they saw their thumb loops get majorly kinked at only 3-4kN but other cams claim to fair better than that. I've taken a couple small falls on WC #1 friends with the thinner dyneema slings (can't remember if they were extended, but probably were) and the thumbloop shape got stretched slightly but I'd hardly call it kinked.
I watch your videos all the time, for several years now, and thought that I was subscribed - because TH-cam pushes them to me. Although I thought I had subscribed before - I am now either for the first time, or again?
Honestly I don’t believe that I haven’t been subbed. I feel like I’ve subbed to this channel multiple times.
I dont climb yet but i still like this channel, probably for the same reason I like the hydrolic press channel, there is something satisfying watching stuff break. Good job making this interesting.
I have one of these. instead of 120cm sling, you need 150cm dynaloop to tie an anchor, because the knot is so bulky ! Heavy, impractical, but I still love it. Have been keeping it in my pack to tie off trees, but it was on my harness when I started multipitch for that extra safety feeling 😂
Intersting. The bigger bend radius of the doubled up might play a big part in equalizing the forces by reducing friction with the shackles. Also the dyneema slings are slippery enough to not be affected by unequal forces.
80% viewers not subs?!?!
I have yet to ascend my first line and yet I found the energy to sub after my first view of the channel.
Love to Lodi from Texas🤘🏼🤘🏼
I like Bobby's advice.
Would love to see how this goes in a drop tower with repeated factor 2 falls
Bag full of rocks of a human being?
How about a reverso break test? im curious about how pulling a person that lost the strength while climbing actually affects the reverso, specially when you belay 2 people and the load on each rope is different. thanks for the good content!
Similarly I'd be interested in how strong the DMM pivot's guide mode ring is.
@@joshuacilliers2723 Definitely interested in that. Guide mode has always unnerved me - though I know that's illogical given the forces involved.
@@MattCooperKay if you've got a device that supports it, it's well worth getting used to it, esp. for multipitch. That being said, learn and practice the lowering methods before you get in a situation where you have to lower a second :) learnt that the hard way
I believe it breaks the rope before the device so belay devices don't really break... just brake haha. But i can test that to see how much it reduces the rope's strength
@@HowNOT2 in terms of the DMM one, I was more curious about the actual pivot attachment.
I think yall are truly awesome.
Great results. Drop test will be sweet on this stuff.
Are you going to be building the drop tower with testing over an edge? Or are you considering a roller, anchor system, something else?
it can be interesting to have a "donation" of a crush dummy (from some car crash tester company) for the fall tower , llike mythbusters
Mythbusters be like how do we make tv shows. Hownot..makes actual scientific data that people rely on.
Every time I go back to long hair Bobby all I can think is "oh, you sweet summer child." I'm so glad you're okay.
It might be interesting to see if a dynaloop tested with the stitching isolated from the system would be stronger, since the stitching seemed to consistently be the point of failure.
Thanks, looking forward to the drop tower.
Yea, I can't wait. It's just a waiting game now with Mr Welder. Nice last name ;)
Have you guys pull tested tricams in the wild yet? If not- whyyyyyyyy! Also, a test on some screamers would be great when you get that drop-tower.
Brilliant vid guys 👍
Strength of dyneema/ kevlar cords (5mm).
For example when used to ascend a rope in emergencies using prusiks
Very nice!!! Thanks folks!
Companies be like after ten years dude youve not replace our expencive harness. Your ass is likely to fall to its death.
Try to break rope/sling/binners with larger temperature difference, - 20 C to +30 C :)
Some parts of Aus Stralia gets into the 40 - 50 oC. Not sure what the syptic tanks call that in 0F.
Thanks for your sharing
Hi Ryan and Bobby, as you have started on the Beal what about doing the other (Petzl) personal anchors CONNECT Adjust and EVOLV Adjust. Although Petzl says the EVOLV is a positioning system not a PAS - what do you say?
Great video like every time thanks guys. Can you test what old cakes that have been rusted can still withstand? Old normal hooks, etc. Can I still trust them? Many thanks for your help.
So your channel has made me curious ... I often place a draw biner in my master point knot or a figure 8 knot that I am rope soloing or jugging on to make removing the knot easier. Does this affect the knot strength? And if knot(not)does it matter where in the knot i place the biner?
huh, that's something I'd like to see as well...
Well kids, this is how a rope guts looks like. Always love the content on this channel jajaja.
Nice test! I have a friend that for anchor he do 2x clover hitches and atach to two carabiners, and one is just for backup so if means that if he falls it will be a fall in just one single part of this loop (half strength). what do you think about it? I think this is the most common scenario for sport roupes because you will be attached to two points of failure;
Can you test the different tie in knots to the harness? What is the strongest, Bowline, double bowline or the figure 8?
Interesting that the 4x sliding X failed 'low' (or lower than expected...) I use the same sliding X setup on multipitch sport belays with a Kevlar sling threaded through the rap rings (super fast and convenient to set up and take down). I wonder if one of these Dyna things would be a better option than a Kevlar sling for the stretchiness.
Could you do a water knot vs a beer knot in a loop of 2" webbing breaking test ?
Where are you guys located ?
Would you break some stuff for me if I sent it to you ?
I'd be super keen to see Purcel Prussiks tested with 6 or 7 mm polyamid cords!
ME TOO!
Not a bad idea for a product, but I'll probably never use one.
Yup. Diddo
Any news on GGBY for 2021?
Probably happening. Check into their website around July August
@@HowNOT2 Awesome, thank you!
Why do people not subscribe? I think u guys are great. 😜
Just good stuff
Lol I thought for sure the harness would break higher 😅 😵💫
Did you ever tested wet ropes!?
Hi, I wolud love to know much kn stress does hte Beal Dynaloop reduce in the anchor compared with an static system such as a dineema quad. I mean... Lets take the firts example of your video (th-cam.com/video/fZIj5HAV8xA/w-d-xo.html) and say with a dineema the anchor is 3.21 KN the belayer 1.08 KN and the climber 1.92 KN. Are the forces recuded by a lot or is it like nothing? Congrats for your amazing videos!
Fine. I'll subscribe.
Hi, I wolud love to know much kn stress does it reduce in the anchor compared with an static system such as a dineema quad. I mean... Lets take the firts example of your video (th-cam.com/video/fZIj5HAV8xA/w-d-xo.html) and say with a dineema the anchor is 3.21 KN the belayer 1.08 KN and the climber 1.92 KN. Are the forces recuded by a lot or is it like nothing? Congrats for your amazing videos!
If you put 22kN on a harness with a person in it their pelvis would be destroyed.
Goes to show. Ignore the manfacturers expiry dates!! "If it aint worn, dont replace it", rr sumpthin.
Go bobby
Please send me your twist leg bolts. Kthx! :P
I’d like to second for a video on Purcell Prussics.
at least wen yt doesn't cut it you have all that rope..jokes aside huggs
From watching a few of your videos, my impression is that while climbing you will never get more than 2 kn anywhere.
These high kn values seems very overkill, could you maybe make a video about what situations you would need different kn ratings, and then compare it to the gear that best fit these requirement?
Using the official ratings, and numbers you've gathered throughout all your testing.
you can easily get more than 6-7 kn on an anchor during a lead fall(i dont know where you got the 2kn number from, the beleyer will allmost never see more than 2kn but its still posible to get 3kn while beleying) and a knot in a sling can reduce the strenght by up to 60% or a sharp bend radius on rope can reduce the strenght of a dynamic rope by 50%. the age of slings or rope can also reduse the strenght down to 16 kn or even more if the rope is dirty. so you combine all of that you can experiance a 7kn lead fall on a sling with a knot that is 5+ years old (so 40% of 16 kn is 6.4kn) so you die. this is an extreme example but all the numbers are not made up but are sorced from youtube videos, scientfic articles and profesional literature(im a firefighter so there are a couple of really quality books available)
edit: and its allways beter to have a safety ratio of at least 2/1 but 5/1 or even 10/1 if preferd
@@16m49x3 im sorry if i sounded condesending that apsolutly wasent my intention, i just wanted to point out that a 22kn rating isnt allways safe and if you bellive that you can never generate more than 2kn you could put yourself in some very dangerous situations. stay safe and knowledge is power where my two points to make.
p.s. if you could point out what sounds condesending i would apreciate it and i could try and improve for the nex time
@@termivan
I'm well aware of safety margins, and I'm well aware that things get worn out...
Just not relevant to the topic.
This video showed things breaking at 40kN
If you want to know where I get 2kN from
th-cam.com/video/m8z6adEqaOs/w-d-xo.html
it's videos like these.
@@termivan While you can see 7 on a lead fall I’m not sure I’d call it easily. Thats quite a spectacular fall with a harsh catch.
Yeah, don’t think I’d be feeling happy when I experience 22Kn 😅
Depends on if 22kn sees you a Quadriplegic.
Joshua McElderly bahahahahahaha!
Lol do you guys take donations for crappy old gear to break for fun😂
depends. i try to do the most requested stuff to break test instead of the most convenient or free-ist gear. email me what you got and we'll see if it is a popular request ryan@slackline.com
@@HowNOT2 oh wow, didn't expect you to respond😂
I enjoy the content of your videos but with your ‘overly-enthusiastic online presenter personality’ I sometimes struggle to understand if you’re being sarcastic or not. For example, do people actually do factor 2 falls onto their anchors all the time?
im certified by miller honeywell in fall protection safety inspection and yeah you guys are sub par of that
You are spoiled we use to tie our slings our od 1 inch tubular webbing.
Dude don't place hardware in trees to do pull test😬 yikes