It's nearly the perfect sharpener and I've had quite a few including earlier models from Worksharp. The problem is you can't set a new edge very quickly with a 220 grit plate. You really need to put out an 80 or 100 grit plate. And it's been a while so I'm wondering when these will become available?
@@Pahrump "Can you please" not be a grammar monitor. "Would you mind" if we just took this person's (no gender assumed 😉 ) ideas at face value. English may not even be their main language. "Thank you" for your time in this matter.
Hi there! I’ve found that sharpening my SAK, with the blades being made the way they are, if I keep the 20° angle, one side ends up with a really pronounced edge whilst the other side seems normal. Sorry had to edit, as I noticed I wasn’t asking a question! My question is, what exactly to do about it, do I try to find the angle for the opposite side so both sides to the edge are symmetrical? Thanks!!!
No just be sure to raise a burr along the entire edge on that first pass on both sides. Some knives, depending on blade steel/size will take longer. Be patient and establish that burr! After that, you can spend less time on each stone and refine the edge as you like.
Double edge with a raised centre I found is tough for the clamp to hold tight, other than that this sharpener is great, maybe some tips on double edge knives would be welcomed. Thank you
Wow, impressed. I have, somewhere an old lansky sharpener. I fought with that thing to get it to hold certain knives (actually build a support with wood and a tiny vice)... it was ridiculous. Granted, the price difference it pretty big but I just may have to give this one a shot. Your new to me roller sharpener also looks great for my kitchen knives to be easily brought up to task.
Any thoughts on a better clamp for the Professional Precision Adjust sharpener. I always need just about another ¼ turn to keep the blade locked into place. The clamp might be fine, but we need more torque perhaps. Stickier or firmer pad on the clamp?
Lets make sure your clamp is working properly! Send an email to info@worksharptools.com and if there are any issues with it, we will send a replacement.
Am surprised that you have not incorporated the findings from Work Sharp's vid of 3 yrs ago that clearly illustrated that sweeping motion of stone against blade was LEAST effective manner in which to achieve smooth edge.
I have a double edged microtech ultratech and I was wondering if you sharpen it the same way as a normal pocket knife except you just treat it like it has two different blades?
Double edge knives won't clamp evenly unfortunately. We recommend sharpening DE knives on a free hand system like the Benchstone or the Blade Grinding Attachment for the Ken Onion edition KTS.
Some really good advices here. Thanks! One question: Does the angle setting refer to the angle on the knives edge or the angle on each side of the edge? If I like to grind my knife edge in 30 degrees, short I adjust to 30 or 15 degrees on the scale, for example?
Don’t forget to strop with compound. That is vital because the stones still leave a micro serration on the edge. Stropping with compound takes it beyond “razor” sharp. If you’re going to do it, do it right.
True, but there is an argument to be made for that micro serration being beneficial for some knives. If razor sharp is the goal, then yes, strop away. If you have a camp knife that is going to see hard use, those micro serrations can work for you, on material like rope.
I cannot argue with that. It would depend on the use for the particular knife. I was simply adding the strop for that keen edge some seek like say a wood carver. I guess I should’ve been more clear. Thanks for checking me.
I am setting the angle with the rod perpendicular to the blade. That angle changes as I move up and down the blade, correct? How to compensate (if necessary)?
I have a Work Sharp Professional. When I am sharpening large knives I set the angle at the center of the blade but as I move to the tip or the heel, due to the radial movement of the rod, the angle changes by a couple of degrees. Is there a way to keep a constant angle with this system? I have never seen anyone commenting on this on the reviews I watched. Thx.
Sure, it is called freehand sharpening, all these systems are made for a BFU who do not want to learn or just dont care. No matter if you choose a diamond or whatewer stone or a belt grinder, if you master that, everything is better than this BFU thing.
Suggestion - Sharpen a meat cleaver? No luck due to flex... Let me explain the CLAMP allows the knife to pitch up and down., no matter how hard I clamp it, the blade tilts when applying the abrassive to blade and sharpening... :( the flex is about 2 degrees...(Pitchi). if I use the abrasive in a PULLING method the blade pitches down, and I use a PUSHING method the blade pushes up... Any advice?
Looking to order this knife sharpener nice video. question is can this sharpener sharpen kitchen cleaver knives have 3 of these knives and will your clamp with the support block hold a larger cleaver. . like to go this way over your belt sharpener which i have used. Thank You
did you guys not tighten the clamp enough? the flex on the kitchen knives look pretty obvious. Also, wish you guys cover microbeveling with these- this is a much easier way to remove burr and get great apex at the same time. Synergizes pretty well with the ken onion edition angle set sharpener you make too.
@ianbaker4295 how so? The WS is incapable of producing a convex apex. Only a TSProf or KME are the only two clamp systems that have a convexing attachment available.
@@isaiah_b_3798 I meant work sharp as a company likes convex grinds. Not the precision adjust likes convex grinds. I didn’t mean to cause any confusion! Worksharp activity promotes convex grinds because of their belt sharpeners, stating things like their durability, etc
Nope, the PRO PA is not the best choice for any double edged knives due to the clamp, it needs a spine to properly hold the knife. For double edge knives we recommend a stone like the Benchstone or the best option would probably be the Ken Onion Elite Mk2.
I was about ready to press the buy button for this machine mainly because it clamps the knife then...I got to thinking. Most of my heavy use knifes are various long, narrow and flexible fillet knives. Are they too long and too flexible for this systems?? I don't think the clamp system would work for these or am I missing something??
Question… after sharpening my chefs knife I get a bess score of 110. If I then use a sharpening steel it immediately drops to around 250. Do sharpening steels actually dull the blade and should I avoid them? Would you do an episode studying the effects of sharpening steels quantitatively?
That would be fun to look at. 110 is razor blade territory when it comes to sharp and 250 is still way sharpener than factory, so your knife is sharp, just not insanely sharp, lol. When you get a knife that sharp, it does not take much use to get it down in the 250 range. There a lots of factors to consider here (angle held on steel vs in PRO PA, the type of knife and material type, etc.) Should make for a fun follow up! Stay tuned.
Well, you're freehanding(inconsistent angle/pressure) on extremely narrow contact surface(high pressure), and sharpening steel(rod)s are generally not that fine, either. And you'll be left with burr. In general, sharpening steel(rod)s are to get a knife from 400~500 range(inconvenient) to 200~300 range(slicing meat) fast, not for shaving edge.
@@SubjeckMark23 ok so it sounds like something i should just avoid if i'm expecting to always have my kitchen knives perform like a straight razor ;) Maybe a quick leather strop on wood with some compound is better for touch-ups and just go back to the stones when that doesn't work?
@@darylfortney8081 In that case, strops will suit you better than rods, if you're willing to accept some inconvenience(such as cleaning your blade before and after stropping).
As mentioned in the video, curved blades are where this sharpener has its limitations. We are working on a solution for this but in the meantime you can use the ceramic on the handle for touch ups. For a full resharpening you would want to use a different approach like our Knife and Tools Sharpener (KTS) that uses flexible belts that can follow the curvature of the blade and maintain that factory profile.
@@WorkSharpOutdoorplease tell me there is a solution for hawkbill and karambits coming soon. To actually sharpen them not just hone them with ceramics. That’s the only thing keeping me from buying this system. And trust me, I have a lot of your products. Lol.
I want that work mat to go with my 2 Professional Precision Adjust Knife Sharpeners. I am a little disappointed that neither of my Professional Precision Adjust Knife Sharpener came with a work mat.
The time required depends on factors such as the type of steel and the current sharpening angle. In this guide, our aim is to maintain the existing angle on each knife to minimize material removal. Changing the angle to a steeper one will necessitate more time for sharpening. In terms of steel type, harder steels will take longer to develop a burr. While 3-5 passes on a soft steel may create a burr, it could take 10-20 passes on a harder steel. The key is to exercise patience during the initial pass, ensuring the establishment of a burr along the entire edge before proceeding to repeat the process on the opposite side.
The small knife table might be a good option. Check out how we approached the fillet knife. th-cam.com/video/j28VVhaffik/w-d-xo.htmlsi=fGjWANcqqBqdMiMH&t=553
You need to make a new clamp, large kitchen knives bend too much. I use a graphics card holder to avoid this. the knife doesn't get deep enough into the clamp, also 2 clamps in parallel would support the knife much better than just one.
Hey work Sharp replace the cheap plastic and nylon parts with proper steel or bronze and take the slop out of the system. You went cheap on critical elements that make getting a consistent edge very difficult..... Why?? It's mostly plastic, you did half a job with improvements for the 'Professional' model by cheaping out....no longer a buyer until you correct the problems..
It's nearly the perfect sharpener and I've had quite a few including earlier models from Worksharp. The problem is you can't set a new edge very quickly with a 220 grit plate. You really need to put out an 80 or 100 grit plate. And it's been a while so I'm wondering when these will become available?
You should do a video of common mistakes 1st timers make (eg accidentally rolling/rounding knive points)
Great suggestion!
@DrLobotomy "ask for" instead of "tell". Like "can you please" instead of "you should do".
@@Pahrump "Can you please" not be a grammar monitor. "Would you mind" if we just took this person's (no gender assumed 😉 ) ideas at face value. English may not even be their main language. "Thank you" for your time in this matter.
I love mine. Gets a shaving sharp edge with ease. I make knives and use the elite to put an edge on all my knives.
I first saw the sharpener in a recent Montana Knife Company email ad. After seeing it used here, I had to have one.
Heck yeah! We love working with MKC
I bought the pro. Got it in the mail yesterday. Amazing. I sharpened a couple of my benchmades and one Spydercos. Can’t beat it.
Great video!
I would love a 1000 plate. 😊
Stay tuned...
Good teacher.
Hi there! I’ve found that sharpening my SAK, with the blades being made the way they are, if I keep the 20° angle, one side ends up with a really pronounced edge whilst the other side seems normal. Sorry had to edit, as I noticed I wasn’t asking a question! My question is, what exactly to do about it, do I try to find the angle for the opposite side so both sides to the edge are symmetrical? Thanks!!!
Cool tool, question when progressing through the stones are you supposed to get a burr with each stone?
No just be sure to raise a burr along the entire edge on that first pass on both sides. Some knives, depending on blade steel/size will take longer. Be patient and establish that burr! After that, you can spend less time on each stone and refine the edge as you like.
@@WorkSharpOutdoordo you guys sell the work sharp mat by chance?
Double edge with a raised centre I found is tough for the clamp to hold tight, other than that this sharpener is great, maybe some tips on double edge knives would be welcomed. Thank you
Agreed. It is missing from the instructional video.
Where do you get that Worksharp nonslip mat the tool is sitting on?
I was thinking the same thing
Wow, impressed. I have, somewhere an old lansky sharpener. I fought with that thing to get it to hold certain knives (actually build a support with wood and a tiny vice)... it was ridiculous. Granted, the price difference it pretty big but I just may have to give this one a shot. Your new to me roller sharpener also looks great for my kitchen knives to be easily brought up to task.
Any plans to sell a 1200 grit diamond stone for this kit?
Any thoughts on a better clamp for the Professional Precision Adjust sharpener. I always need just about another ¼ turn to keep the blade locked into place. The clamp might be fine, but we need more torque perhaps. Stickier or firmer pad on the clamp?
Lets make sure your clamp is working properly! Send an email to info@worksharptools.com and if there are any issues with it, we will send a replacement.
Am surprised that you have not incorporated the findings from Work Sharp's vid of 3 yrs ago that clearly illustrated that sweeping motion of stone against blade was LEAST effective manner in which to achieve smooth edge.
When switching stones can you continue back up on that side of knife first then rotate?
I have a double edged microtech ultratech and I was wondering if you sharpen it the same way as a normal pocket knife except you just treat it like it has two different blades?
Double edge knives won't clamp evenly unfortunately. We recommend sharpening DE knives on a free hand system like the Benchstone or the Blade Grinding Attachment for the Ken Onion edition KTS.
Some really good advices here. Thanks! One question: Does the angle setting refer to the angle on the knives edge or the angle on each side of the edge? If I like to grind my knife edge in 30 degrees, short I adjust to 30 or 15 degrees on the scale, for example?
Don’t forget to strop with compound. That is vital because the stones still leave a micro serration on the edge. Stropping with compound takes it beyond “razor” sharp. If you’re going to do it, do it right.
True, but there is an argument to be made for that micro serration being beneficial for some knives. If razor sharp is the goal, then yes, strop away. If you have a camp knife that is going to see hard use, those micro serrations can work for you, on material like rope.
I cannot argue with that. It would depend on the use for the particular knife. I was simply adding the strop for that keen edge some seek like say a wood carver. I guess I should’ve been more clear. Thanks for checking me.
I am setting the angle with the rod perpendicular to the blade. That angle changes as I move up and down the blade, correct? How to compensate (if necessary)?
hello, is this going to clamp the extrema ratio KH which is a kukri weighs 650 grams with no problem? thanks
what sharpener do you recommend for mainly sharpening kitchen knives?
I have a Work Sharp Professional. When I am sharpening large knives I set the angle at the center of the blade but as I move to the tip or the heel, due to the radial movement of the rod, the angle changes by a couple of degrees. Is there a way to keep a constant angle with this system? I have never seen anyone commenting on this on the reviews I watched. Thx.
Sure, it is called freehand sharpening, all these systems are made for a BFU who do not want to learn or just dont care. No matter if you choose a diamond or whatewer stone or a belt grinder, if you master that, everything is better than this BFU thing.
@@michaltaranza365Naniwa Chosera for the win.
I was wondering the same thing and why nobody mentioned it or measured it. Is it big? Or not big enough to be important?
Is there a storage case for the Work Sharp Professional Precision Adjust Knife Sharpener?
Not right now but stay tuned...
Suggestion - Sharpen a meat cleaver? No luck due to flex... Let me explain the CLAMP allows the knife to pitch up and down., no matter how hard I clamp it, the blade tilts when applying the abrassive to blade and sharpening... :( the flex is about 2 degrees...(Pitchi). if I use the abrasive in a PULLING method the blade pitches down, and I use a PUSHING method the blade pushes up... Any advice?
Can you tell me where I can but the black pad the sharpener in the video is on ?
That was included in a limited run we did for the first 500 Professional Precision Adjusts sold. Should we bring it back?
Yes! @@WorkSharpOutdoor
Yes please do I’d like to order one
Looking to order this knife sharpener nice video. question is can this sharpener sharpen kitchen cleaver knives have 3 of these knives and will your clamp with the support block hold a larger cleaver. . like to go this way over your belt sharpener which i have used. Thank You
Smaller cleaver's (spine to edge) wont be an issue. Larger cleavers won't be possible because of the limited length of the rod the abrasive rides on.
did you guys not tighten the clamp enough? the flex on the kitchen knives look pretty obvious.
Also, wish you guys cover microbeveling with these- this is a much easier way to remove burr and get great apex at the same time. Synergizes pretty well with the ken onion edition angle set sharpener you make too.
How sharp should a tactical knife for defense be? Scalpel sharp?
Great video but what about sharping a Benchmade dagger? Thanks
@WorkSharpOutdoor You forgot one typical grind: The convex grind....such as the Fallkniven F1
I mean, you’re not wrong. The funny thing is that work sharp overall loves convex grinds
@ianbaker4295 how so? The WS is incapable of producing a convex apex. Only a TSProf or KME are the only two clamp systems that have a convexing attachment available.
@@isaiah_b_3798 I meant work sharp as a company likes convex grinds. Not the precision adjust likes convex grinds. I didn’t mean to cause any confusion! Worksharp activity promotes convex grinds because of their belt sharpeners, stating things like their durability, etc
Put a zip tie around the choil if you’re worried about scratching it. It’ll protect the choil, giving it a stop point. 👍
Can you sharpen a Shivworks Clinch Pick 2.0 double edge on this?
Nope, the PRO PA is not the best choice for any double edged knives due to the clamp, it needs a spine to properly hold the knife. For double edge knives we recommend a stone like the Benchstone or the best option would probably be the Ken Onion Elite Mk2.
What's the difference between WSBCHPAJ-ELT-I and 09DX066? Is the latter an old name for the same product?
How do you determine the angle you wanna sharpen
I am looking to sharpen whittling knives can this one do ?
It really depends on the knife. There are a lot of shapes and sizes when it comes to whittling knives and this system could handle some but not all.
I was about ready to press the buy button for this machine mainly because it clamps the knife then...I got to thinking. Most of my heavy use knifes are various long, narrow and flexible fillet knives. Are they too long and too flexible for this systems?? I don't think the clamp system would work for these or am I missing something??
You obviously didn't watch the entire video
Question… after sharpening my chefs knife I get a bess score of 110. If I then use a sharpening steel it immediately drops to around 250. Do sharpening steels actually dull the blade and should I avoid them? Would you do an episode studying the effects of sharpening steels quantitatively?
That would be fun to look at. 110 is razor blade territory when it comes to sharp and 250 is still way sharpener than factory, so your knife is sharp, just not insanely sharp, lol. When you get a knife that sharp, it does not take much use to get it down in the 250 range. There a lots of factors to consider here (angle held on steel vs in PRO PA, the type of knife and material type, etc.) Should make for a fun follow up! Stay tuned.
Well, you're freehanding(inconsistent angle/pressure) on extremely narrow contact surface(high pressure), and sharpening steel(rod)s are generally not that fine, either. And you'll be left with burr.
In general, sharpening steel(rod)s are to get a knife from 400~500 range(inconvenient) to 200~300 range(slicing meat) fast, not for shaving edge.
@@SubjeckMark23 ok so it sounds like something i should just avoid if i'm expecting to always have my kitchen knives perform like a straight razor ;) Maybe a quick leather strop on wood with some compound is better for touch-ups and just go back to the stones when that doesn't work?
@@darylfortney8081 In that case, strops will suit you better than rods, if you're willing to accept some inconvenience(such as cleaning your blade before and after stropping).
8:07 what's that black thing that fell when you lifted the arm?
Can anyone name any if the knives shiwn here, like that hawkbill one please, thanks 🤘🏼
How come you don’t use the 800 grit at all?
How did you get my Bugout with the Copper Crossfade Flytanium Scales for your thumbnail?
Sadly I only have the Precision Adjust and not the Pro.
Those scales take it to the next level for sure! Lots of knife nerds here at Work Sharp and the owner of that particular Bugout is no exception.
What about the Convex?
What model knife is on the movie cover? Yellow handle…
That is a Benchmade Bugout with aftermarket brass scales from Flytainium
@@WorkSharpOutdoor thank u 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
I have a damascus haukbill i cant get sharp what can I do?
As mentioned in the video, curved blades are where this sharpener has its limitations. We are working on a solution for this but in the meantime you can use the ceramic on the handle for touch ups. For a full resharpening you would want to use a different approach like our Knife and Tools Sharpener (KTS) that uses flexible belts that can follow the curvature of the blade and maintain that factory profile.
@@WorkSharpOutdoorplease tell me there is a solution for hawkbill and karambits coming soon. To actually sharpen them not just hone them with ceramics. That’s the only thing keeping me from buying this system. And trust me, I have a lot of your products. Lol.
I want that work mat to go with my 2 Professional Precision Adjust Knife Sharpeners. I am a little disappointed that neither of my Professional Precision Adjust Knife Sharpener came with a work mat.
Would you be able to sharpen Japanese knives with this?
Yep! The second knife we sharpened was a Japanese style knife.
What about 10-15° angle for wood carving knives (1.5-2”).
The small knife table would be the best bet for that type of tool at that steep of an angle. Stay tuned, this could be a good one to revisit.
@@WorkSharpOutdoor I'm looking forward to it, and thank you for replying. Im anxious to see WorkSharp address wood carving knives.
@@Iskazz13 And Japanese knives, even Wusthof has a 14 degree angle.
I am not dissing the peoduct. I purchased the product. But 3-5 stropes and you get a bur? It takes me aloy more than that
how many passes do I nee to make on each side
The time required depends on factors such as the type of steel and the current sharpening angle. In this guide, our aim is to maintain the existing angle on each knife to minimize material removal. Changing the angle to a steeper one will necessitate more time for sharpening. In terms of steel type, harder steels will take longer to develop a burr. While 3-5 passes on a soft steel may create a burr, it could take 10-20 passes on a harder steel. The key is to exercise patience during the initial pass, ensuring the establishment of a burr along the entire edge before proceeding to repeat the process on the opposite side.
How about an 8" chef's knife that flexes like a filleting knife. Do it in sections???
The small knife table might be a good option. Check out how we approached the fillet knife. th-cam.com/video/j28VVhaffik/w-d-xo.htmlsi=fGjWANcqqBqdMiMH&t=553
DO YOU SHIP TO MÉXICO?
We do not. Here is a link where you can look for a store in your area. www.worksharptools.com/international-distributors/
I wanna see you sharpen a dual edge spearpoint nobody has ever shown that
Can you show the sharpening of a boning knife ?
You need to make a new clamp, large kitchen knives bend too much.
I use a graphics card holder to avoid this. the knife doesn't get deep enough into the clamp,
also 2 clamps in parallel would support the knife much better than just one.
TSPROF лучше?
Serated blede u forgot.
Deaths by dogs per year 25000
Deaths by lightningper year 4000
Well it sharpened the Benchmade infidel
Well I saw a different video exposing the failed parts of this device. Perhaps you haven’t sharpened enough knives to know about this.
steak knifes
Hey work Sharp replace the cheap plastic and nylon parts with proper steel or bronze and take the slop out of the system. You went cheap on critical elements that make getting a consistent edge very difficult.....
Why?? It's mostly plastic, you did half a job with improvements for the 'Professional' model by cheaping out....no longer a buyer until you correct the problems..
Ok I don't need a $10,000 machine to sharpen knives, Stones, paper, oil n water work wonders!!
Bruhh its 75 dollars xD
@lskazz13 I saw an option for 10 and 15 degree on the unit.
What do i do if my knives edge isnt one of these degrees