Hi man nice video. A question thought. The little hole on the oil pan that connect via a tube to the water pump, what uses it has? i mean i didn't see that you used it for drain or something, so what it does? I mean the one at 31:00 Thanks.
That's a good question. Because the oil pump and water pump are an "assembly" and are submerged in oil. The engineers put a "drain tube" in, so that if the bearing in the water pump side starts to fail, it will allow for the coolant to leak out directly to the ground instead of mixing with the engine oil, causing catastrophic failure. This also serves as a way to know if you have a bad water pump or not. Car manufacturers do this too. They call them water pump weep holes, they just don't submerge their water pumps in oil so they don't need the tube portion of it, Hope that explanation helps.
These videos are so helpful! Great job all around. I do have a question. What part number did you use for the water pump/oil pump? Just bought a 2006 with only 2500 miles, but it’s been sitting for years and everything the coolant touched is massively rusted so I’m changing out anything metal the coolant sat in. The diagrams I’ve found don’t give a part number for the whole pump. Thank you!
Nice find! This is the part number I used for the whole assembly: WATER PUMP ASSY: 4C8-12420-21-00 That is directly off the Partzilla website, I like to use their parts diagrams, and the prices aren't the worst either. I also appreciate the kind words sir. Thank you!
Think imma go back and find precious vids before finishing this …. I didn’t get notification about this project for quite a bit ,so seems I skipped somehow .
oh no! Any way you can fish it out? I don't think its possible without pulling the exhaust, but if it is I feel it will be more difficult than just removing it.
A bit disappointed in Yamaha for NOT UPDATING THE DESIGN on it, despite using the 04-06 20 Valve R1 Engine, on the FZ1 FROM 2006 TO 2015! Even having a 2015 still has the issue!! Fortunately, and apparently but yet unverified by me, the poor Rotor magnet design was ONLY updated in the 2015 FZ1, despite the design shortcoming being know from 04.... Best bikes best design best engineers most reliable, but this was a complete GOOF YAMAHA!
Yeah its pretty odd they waited till the last year of the model run to change it. I've heard not even all of the 2015 models got the updated part. Which is crazy. Yamaha or RM stator have made a killing off selling those rotors assemblies aftermarket. But I'd personally stay away from RM Stator brand.
yeah I see the hole where it used to go. The exhaust also has a spot for a stopper it looks too. Where you able to get your rotor flywheel assembly replaced?
@grimsmotovlogs369 i bought an rm stator because my local dealer sells them at 150, but it shipped in box and spindle busted through box on both ends and spindle had dent, so i returned it and bought oem for 400 from Powersports authority, looks much better. Haven't put it in yet.
Wow the dealer sells them?? Like off the shelf or they drop ship it? Yeah the OEM one is by far superior quality. I went back to try and find the footage of my install of my rotor, unfortunately I could only find the video of me installing the new oem one when it came in and it wasn't disassembly just the installation process. So I don't think Ill have a video out for it..
@grimsmotovlogs369 leaders marine is a dealer our Powersports dealer kalamazoo Michigan, they have them listed on their site to buy and are an authorized dealer and then rm stator drops ships them. Yes, oem was noticeably better quality. They took the return no issues and paid for shipping. Was a deal at 150$ but not worth the risk. Bought oem gaslet too, 12$ oem vs. $20 for rm stator gasket.
Way too much thread lock used ... centre stand is hitting suspension linkage, bump rubber is missing from exhaust bracket on silencer ... sump oil drain bolt torque spec is way too high, 20NM is plenty tight, as it uses a single use only crush washer, same apples to brake hose banjo bolts ... manual shows wrong info ... good on ya for taking time to film this Vlog.
I was definitely overzealous on the loctite lol. And thanks! It definitely took time to record... a lot of time haha. I definitely agree with everything you said. I found the service manual to be wrong in several instances.
Lastly, and honestly, it's a pretty involved job. Will be fucking annoying, can feel it already. But its another project and more experience working on the bike, and the bike needs it smh. Leaking through the weep hole, lots.
Replacing the water pump is definitely a time consuming job. Some say you can do it without removing the clutch basket, but I feel it would just make it harder to get the pump and chain back on. If you do attempt the job, just make sure you have a good torque wrench, and make sure to buy all the associated o rings and gaskets. Take you time completing it!
Came back just to confirm I did all the job right, which I did. Cheers bro!
Nice Job! Cheers!
Hi man nice video.
A question thought.
The little hole on the oil pan that connect via a tube to the water pump, what uses it has? i mean i didn't see that you used it for drain or something, so what it does?
I mean the one at 31:00
Thanks.
That's a good question. Because the oil pump and water pump are an "assembly" and are submerged in oil. The engineers put a "drain tube" in, so that if the bearing in the water pump side starts to fail, it will allow for the coolant to leak out directly to the ground instead of mixing with the engine oil, causing catastrophic failure. This also serves as a way to know if you have a bad water pump or not. Car manufacturers do this too. They call them water pump weep holes, they just don't submerge their water pumps in oil so they don't need the tube portion of it, Hope that explanation helps.
These videos are so helpful! Great job all around. I do have a question. What part number did you use for the water pump/oil pump? Just bought a 2006 with only 2500 miles, but it’s been sitting for years and everything the coolant touched is massively rusted so I’m changing out anything metal the coolant sat in. The diagrams I’ve found don’t give a part number for the whole pump. Thank you!
Nice find! This is the part number I used for the whole assembly: WATER PUMP ASSY: 4C8-12420-21-00
That is directly off the Partzilla website, I like to use their parts diagrams, and the prices aren't the worst either. I also appreciate the kind words sir. Thank you!
spectacular ocean until you're officially captivate me...awesome
Thank you! Cheers!
Smart numbering the actual part with exploded view part #…..I should’ve thought of this 😜👍🏼✌️
Harbor freight pick set baby 😂
Think imma go back and find precious vids before finishing this …. I didn’t get notification about this project for quite a bit ,so seems I skipped somehow .
@@vicpnut1 can’t go wrong with the good ole harbor freight tools!
Saludos desde Panamá 2025 gracias por tú ayuda
Hi, I have just dropped starter clutch damper into the engine :( Do you think it is possible to remove oil pan without removing exhaust manifold?
oh no! Any way you can fish it out? I don't think its possible without pulling the exhaust, but if it is I feel it will be more difficult than just removing it.
Hi. Why did you change the water pump?
thought my whine noise was coming from the water pump bearing, since my bearing was starting to go bad in. unfortunately its something else.
Also, and haha, we have the same carbon fiber exhaust haha. Two Brothers Black Series I think the exhaust is,
it sounds so good! I've had it on my 06 ninja 636 too.
Thank you for the Details! Great Video!!
A bit disappointed in Yamaha for NOT UPDATING THE DESIGN on it, despite using the 04-06 20 Valve R1 Engine, on the FZ1 FROM 2006 TO 2015! Even having a 2015 still has the issue!! Fortunately, and apparently but yet unverified by me, the poor Rotor magnet design was ONLY updated in the 2015
FZ1, despite the design shortcoming being know from 04.... Best bikes best design best engineers most reliable, but this was a complete GOOF YAMAHA!
Yeah its pretty odd they waited till the last year of the model run to change it. I've heard not even all of the 2015 models got the updated part. Which is crazy. Yamaha or RM stator have made a killing off selling those rotors assemblies aftermarket. But I'd personally stay away from RM Stator brand.
Center stand has a rubber contact grommet, it probably fell off
yeah I see the hole where it used to go. The exhaust also has a spot for a stopper it looks too. Where you able to get your rotor flywheel assembly replaced?
@grimsmotovlogs369 i bought an rm stator because my local dealer sells them at 150, but it shipped in box and spindle busted through box on both ends and spindle had dent, so i returned it and bought oem for 400 from Powersports authority, looks much better. Haven't put it in yet.
@grimsmotovlogs369 yes, and they aren't exactly the same size, so i wouldn't trust the rm stator, small differences in size.
Wow the dealer sells them?? Like off the shelf or they drop ship it? Yeah the OEM one is by far superior quality. I went back to try and find the footage of my install of my rotor, unfortunately I could only find the video of me installing the new oem one when it came in and it wasn't disassembly just the installation process. So I don't think Ill have a video out for it..
@grimsmotovlogs369 leaders marine is a dealer our Powersports dealer kalamazoo Michigan, they have them listed on their site to buy and are an authorized dealer and then rm stator drops ships them. Yes, oem was noticeably better quality. They took the return no issues and paid for shipping. Was a deal at 150$ but not worth the risk. Bought oem gaslet too, 12$ oem vs. $20 for rm stator gasket.
All fz1 sounds like this
You can search videos of Yamaha fz1 mivv slipon sounds same all of them 👌
Way too much thread lock used ... centre stand is hitting suspension linkage, bump rubber is missing from exhaust bracket on silencer ... sump oil drain bolt torque spec is way too high, 20NM is plenty tight, as it uses a single use only crush washer, same apples to brake hose banjo bolts ... manual shows wrong info ...
good on ya for taking time to film this Vlog.
I was definitely overzealous on the loctite lol. And thanks! It definitely took time to record... a lot of time haha. I definitely agree with everything you said. I found the service manual to be wrong in several instances.
Lastly, and honestly, it's a pretty involved job. Will be fucking annoying, can feel it already. But its another project and more experience working on the bike, and the bike needs it smh. Leaking through the weep hole, lots.
Replacing the water pump is definitely a time consuming job. Some say you can do it without removing the clutch basket, but I feel it would just make it harder to get the pump and chain back on. If you do attempt the job, just make sure you have a good torque wrench, and make sure to buy all the associated o rings and gaskets. Take you time completing it!