Porsche 911 Turbo (996) Oil Change DIY
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.พ. 2025
- Tools Needed:
Oil Tank Sump drain plug: 19mm socket and 27mm wrench
Crankcase drain plug: 15mm socket
Turbo drain plug (1 each side): 8mm hex
Torque Wrench
Medicine Dropper
Funnel
Oil Filter Removal Tool: 76mm, 14 flute
Parts Needed:
Oil Filter and new O-ring (oil filter will come with large ring) I used MAHLE Original OX 128/1D Oil Filter
Aluminum Sealing Ring (crankcase) 900 123 118 30
Aluminum Sealing Rings (turbos x2) 900 123 140 30
Copper Sealing Ring (oil tank) 900 123 010 20
8 quarts of oil (I used 5W-40 Motul 8100)
Torque Specs:
Oil Tank Sump Drain Plug: 44 ft-lbs.
Crankcase Drain Plug: 52 ft-lbs.
Turbo Housing Drain Plugs: 22 ft-lbs.
Oil Filter Housing: 19 ft-lbs
I currently have a C4S and one day want to step up to a Turbo. Thanks, this was very informative.
Bernard Barbour Happy to help; good luck with your hunt and thanks for watching!
Nice and straight to the point video. My only suggestion is to set all your plugs on the side until you are ready to torque them. Putting them finger tight and proceed doing something else can be a bad idea for a forgetful person.
Top Notch! Quick, to the point, and great technical detail! THANKS for making it easy for me to get the same results! :-)
Thanks very much for the kind words! Happy Motoring!
I like that you conveniently omitted the part where you drained the oil tank... by far the most "fun" part of the process.. LOL
Nice! Your videos made me pull the trigger on my car :) I have a Manual 2003 X50. Keep the vids coming and I'll rig up my go-pro later this summer too :)
Congratulations! Glad my videos could help. I will have some additional content coming in the next few weeks. Looking forward to seeing your car.
Just performed this on my 01 turbo. Kinda made a mess when I drained the oil tank, I found out you need an open drain pan instead of a funnel type. Thanks for the video!
I think the washers may not have seated properly in the turbo oil supply tanks. That is why the drain plugs protruded .
also it looks like you dropped the filter down into the housing first, I believe it should be installed on the post on the inside of the filter housing lid itself. ECS Tuning makes a nice billet replacement for this (since its plastic and gets chewed up by filter wrenches) which is metal and has a nut to spin it off.
Great clear video. Thanks for posting. How about changing those spark plugs? I'd like to see that video. I appreciate you posting this.
You are quite welcome! I have changed the plugs and coil packs myself, but did not film that one. I have also done the exhaust, but again no filming. Both of them are pretty straightforward though (unless your exhaust bolts were frozen on as mine were...ugh). Thanks again for watching, and feel free to subscribe!
Can you explain the logic of removing the fuel pump fuse? This seems entirely unnecessary.
The reason is to turn the engine over a few times without actually firing it up in order to get some oil circulated, but I agree that this is an optional and most likely unnecessary step. My past two oil changes, I have skipped this step personally. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for post and listing out part #'s and specs. It probably would not hurt unless you severely overfilled but why did you check the oil level after driving it for 30 miles?
I forgot to record the part of the video where I checked the oil level at the time of the change. I recorded the oil level measurement the next time I drove the car. But you are correct that it should be checked right after the change, which I did, but did not record it. Thanks for watching!
Why did you have to discharge fuel line?
nice video , but why do you pull the fuel pump fuse?
never use a torque wrench backwards or to break bolts
poor porsche undercarriage
Could you tell what torque specs should tight for Horizontal Oil Pressure Relief Valve/Piston? Thanks in advance!
Pourquoi il faut enlevé le fusible ?
Hmmm... I wonder (from experience) why you didn't show the oil tank plug removal and drain. :)
Comes out like a 2 inch line doesn't it? :)
No doubt! Comes out like a geyser. My Carrera 3.2 was even worse as it took 10.5 quarts and 9 of those would come out of the sump in about 10 seconds haha.
Perche si toglie il fusibile?
thank you for the video. you mentioned "replace" the fuse...do you mean reconnect the old fuse? thanks
dee youcee You are correct. Just put the original fuse that you took out back in the car. There is no need for a new fuse. Thanks for watching.
I'm NOT a Porsche mechanic but cranking over and engine after draining the oil like that seems like a BAD idea!!!! Does Porsche actually suggest this procedure??? I'm about to purchase a 996TT and would love to know prior. Thank you.
Sorry for the confusion. I cranked the engine without any fuel being supplied BEFORE the oil was drained and AFTER the oil had been replaced. So there was plenty of oil in the car when I did these two things. It is just a matter of moving the oil around a bit before firing the car up, so you don't get an oil light. The last two changes I have done, I completely skipped this part of the procedure. I just drained and replaced the oil and oil filter. The procedure in this video is the most thorough, but the fuel pump relay and turning it over to move oil around prior to firing it up are pretty unnecessary. Thanks for watching and good luck with your purchase!
Adam, Isn't C4 fuse supposed to be 25 amps. You mentioned 30 amp fuse. Check the fuse map that came with the car and it states only 25 amp. I also have a 30 amp in that location and was wondering if the fuse map is wrong of the initial install was wrong. Any comments. Also, have you ever changed the plugs on this car yourself?
I looked at it last night and you are correct, the fuse map only says 25A, but I have a 30A fuse in that slot like you do. Maybe it is a typo or a carryover from the standard Carrera (smaller fuel pump)?
Also, yes I have changed spark plugs and coil packs on my car. It is time consuming, but not that difficult. Doing it yourself will save you about $1,000 in labor.
Why are you using a torque wrench to break the plugs loose?
+MrRangerZr1 Because I could not find my breaker bar at the time, and it is an old torque wrench that I don't use anymore for actually torqueing items correctly.
+Adam Coats oh okay. As long as you don't use that on the drain plugs you're okay :)
my turbo drain plug is stuck, no way i can get it loose any ideas? so i stopped worrying about it.
Who performed the last oil change? They may have used an impact wrench and overtorqued the bolt. I would take it back to them and have them remove it as they move have cross-threaded the bolt in the oil pan or sump.
bought the car with 38k. I dont think ever was removed. I do all the work myself.
+theMadWhip So are you saying that the oil pan drain plug has never been removed by just you, or by any of the previous owners as well? It must have been removed for an oil change at some point, and if it is stuck now, it was most likely put back in and overtightened during an oil change prior to you buying it. If you think it is just tight, but not damaged, I would use a breaker bar or impact gun to try to break it loose, but be careful and for sure only use a torque wrench to reinstall if you happen to get it off. If you suspect it is damaged and cross-threaded, then you will either need a new oil pan, or have to use the suction method to remove oil from the system by purchasing one of the vacuum systems that is available. I don't know how much I trust that method to completely flush the oil however. Good luck!
+Adam Coats I never removed oil drain plug from turbos, I tried. each time when I changed the oil. I also don't want to use too much force, ive been thinking to maybe heatup a little and try breaker bar. I have to remove this at some point because when i go with different Turbos i have to get that plug out to be able to replace the turbos - thanks
Oh I see, you are talking about the drain plugs below the turbo housings. Yeah, I am sure that is pretty common for them to never be removed by most people during an oil change. They just have years of road grime on them, especially if it is a northern car exposed to winter weather and road salt. I would hit them with a good penetrating oil like Kano Kroil, PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench. Let them soak overnight. Then use a breaker bar with a hex head socket, but be very gentle and gradually apply force. Hope this helps!
Why did you use Motul? Why not Amsoil 0w40?
They are both high-quality oils and I imagine they would do the job equally well. I am sure you are impartial in your opinion haha.
@@adamcoats1566 Ive owned nothing but BMWs and Porsches never had any problems with either even after heavy track use. I'd trust Motul or liqui moly even Castrol over Amsoil. Amsoil are so overrated then you have their snake salesmen on every video pushing their products..
Do not try this at home kids.