That was an awesome fix. It is so easy to get demoralized when you think you've fixed a problem and there's yet another problem. Logical troubleshooting and experience wins the day. And, it's so much fun to watch.
Brilliant! Thank you so much, I've just fixed my Sony DB930 after watching this. It had many dry solder joints causing the relays/sound to click in and out. In the process of soldering those I must have taken out resistor R592 as once the relays were fixed I had no +ve voltage to that area. Traced it back and replaced the 1ohm resistor and it's all working - no more bashing it on the top when the sound cuts out!
Thanks for giving me the courage to repair a "popping audio" issue with my Sony STR-DA4ES! Turned out to be poor solder joints on those big NEC chips on the A-Class board. I also reflowed the joints on the main audio board's NEC chips. Problem solved! I posted a video on my TH-cam channel and gave you a well-deserved shout-out. Keep up the great work!
We talk about 'dry 'joints here in the UK, I'm glad to hear you pronounce the word 'solder' as it's spelled, some Americans I've notice say 'sodder' and they're not even swearing! Interesting work, thanks for providing such interesting stuff to watch.
Same here.However,in my day(the '60s),all I had was an old copy of "Everybody's Radio Manual" from 1954 which was a reprint of the one put out twenty years earlier.It served me well being an guitar player who still prefers tube amps.All we learned in high school was basic electricity;no electronics.
Very good and learning video. Step by step how to tackle the problem. Fix loose joint soldering, check the ribbon cables. Then check ic. Where the 55vlt are dropping. Finally the was a bad resistor. That's fix the problems. 👍❤️ Good.
Great Fix - I used to work for Sony and there was never a shortage of information. Tip - When you print, don’t use the Print All option, but print 1 of 5 for example, or the page the main data is on. If it’s only 1 page press the Print Screen button on the keyboard top right
Its one thing to do a teardown and talk about it as if you know something but its another thing to actually troubleshoot and know your shit. You are definitely an expert in the latter and probably why you are in the top 3 of my favorite youtubers (I'm subscribed to almost 100). Thank you again for the great video!
You are in your garage on a work bench covered with a rug using minimal and cheap test equipment. Couple that with Jays comments. You are quite the skilled craftsmen. I also agree with Jay that you are one my top favorite youtubers to watch. Thank you for what you do.
I have a Sony DA5ES similar to the one in this video. I’ve recently experienced scary loud popping and crackling sounds after powering up, and sometimes it would go into protection. I was ready to take it to a local repair shop, but then saw the video. I have the same IC’s, but three of them. Sure enough, the solder connections were cracked exactly as you said. I resoldered them and the issue is fixed. I can’t thank you enough. Your experience shows. Thanks again!
@calee4nyaboy No need to wick up solder. Lead free is 97% tin 3% copper. Leaded solder 60% tin 40% lead. So what happens when you reflow with leaded? You end you end up with mostly lean and tin and a very small amount of copper which is fine because the copper will bond with the board and wire.
Extremely detailed, well narrated video. Thanks for sharing your expert skills to us up and comers. You ever been faced with an STR DA-3000 ES? It is mine and it's just an awesome sounding reciever/amp. Sonys ES line is premium equipment for the consumer in my eyes. Built with serviceability in mind which is why I want to keep this thing as long as possible. Thanks for your time again.
That is very interesting. It reminds me of the "secret sauce" some gourmet chefs use to disguise the horse meat in their dishes. I guess it is a subtle way to distinguish a product feature no doubt but does it really make a difference? Did they patent it? Nonetheless, a very interesting aside. Thank you for that new knowledge.
I thoroughly enjoy all your vids when you are troubleshooting to repair these obscure issues. Oh, and don't listen to critics about too much solder. Too much would look like a giant ball. Yours are totally fine. 5 Stars
When I took the National Radio Institute course on TV Audio Video electronics repair course, I don't remember them putting a lot of emphasis on bad electrolytic caps. causing so many problems. Frank Frank Reiser Video/Audio Service
Interesting repair, reminds me of when i worked on a STR-DE445 i think it was which was years ago. I think it had about the same IPM type of modues, found a heap of bad solder joints fixed them another free 5.1ch reciever :)
+Hagis2k These IPM and IPOM (integrated power module, and integrated power output module respectively) have been a source of headache for many years. Even on the projection TV of years gone by. They would use 3 stereo IPOM to drive the horizontal and vertical convergence yokes on each of the 3 tubes. Then Sony decided that was 1 too many module, so they created a 3 channel and would put the red H+V on one plus the green H correction. The other module would handle the Blue H+V and the green V correction. These modules would sell for 100 each. Other companies that used the standard stereo modules, they would only be like 20. Sure there was 3 of them, but you could buy all 3 for 60, whereas the 2 Sony custom ones would run 200. They all failed the same way. Not enough solder on the pins that get hot and then they fracture.
Looks like the early 90s onkyo stereo and pro logic receivers insite VERY good stuff! Big Black Heavy, good clean power. Better than many "botique" audiophile amps like "Carat" (poor control when bass guits busy)
32:00 In the print menu, you can select a range of pages to be print out. Some web browsers don't support that, so printing the page to PDF file first can be a solution.
These are great Video's I have this Exact Amp only Mine Is In the Loft In It's Box now. I have upgraded to a Atmos one. The Printing Problem. You should Go up To FILE then PRINT PREVIEW, Here You can select how Many Pages You Want to Print. Hope This Helps.
That Sony ES stuff was nice equipment. My family had a 1992? Sony Trinitron XBR TV that we got an ES receiver with it back in the 90's. I think it was a Dolby Surround receiver (before pro-logic.) I always laughed because the volume knob was labeled "Attenuator"
_"I always laughed because the volume knob was labeled 'Attenuator'"_ It did accurately describe what it does, though. Lower volume = greater attenuation of the signal's level going to the power amplifier.
+Robert Mattison Thanks.Viewers that find these videos helpful should consider a small donation though the donate tab on the home youtube page.For clarification, I do receive a very small monthly payment from youtube when people watch full ads and click on banners. I don't when they skip ads, use ad blockers or watch from mobile platforms.
In an Aiwa (made by Sony) amplifier I repaired there was the same problem, bad solder joints on those driver ICs. But in my amp, the bad connections had caused the output transistors to short. By the way Aiwa did not get Sony's nice design, I had to take that amplifier completely apart to gain access to the underside of the circuit board.
+DrCassette Aiwa was not Sony. They were founded as AIKO Denki Sangyo Co., Ltd and made microphones.Sony started slowly acquiring Aiwa shares in the late 60's.Sony by 1969 quietly was Aiwa's majority shareholder effectively allowing Sony by 1979 when Walkman was released to have pre-planed products and marketing of Aiwa to not directly compete in many model areas. This gave Sony a double edged sword allowing fast dominance of large market share right from start in Walkman markets worldwide.Where Sony made many of their products in Japan, the Aiwa branded products were made in China, or Indonesia. Great marketing though, as salesmen took the baton, and ran with it. Everyone out there thought that Aiwa was a less expensive Sony. Not true. Aiwa might have been owned by Sony, but they were not competing with themselves. That is why you see a huge build quality difference. They are made in different factories, to different standards.Anyway, back to the solder joint issue, that is exactly why I did not power it up until I checked it. I didn't want to blow something up. It is a good rule of thumb. If something is going intermittent, look at the fault BEFORE it becomes a bigger more expensive fault. Same rule applies to cars. When you hear a squeak when you apply the brakes, act now, not when it starts grinding, that is unless you want to part with a bigger wad of cash.
hahaha let me find out you had a sears coldspot dehumidifier running in the background! I remember that noisy thing like it was just yesterday. It had a silvere strip along the top I payed like $15 for the thing at the thrift store and it lasted me for years untill one day do to me not ever oiling the poor thing I came home from college and found it all seized up and just the compressor humming. It had a plastic bucket u had to empty or you could also have it drain off. The fan blades were metal. The noise in the background sounded exactly like it. I am surprised how I completely forgot how the thing sounded untill I watched this video.
Sony definately did have some good product with the ES line. It was originally called the Esprit line, and those pieces with the Esprit badge on them are even rarer. For those unfamiliar with the Sony Esprit line, I don't blame you. They were very high end, very expensive and all 100% hand built. Not a huge suscess, they were the pre-runner to the ES line. Of course there was the pre Esprit equipment that was out a couple of years prior to the esprit era. Esprit ran 78-80 if memory serves me correct. I remember drooling over the stuff at the hifi shop, but I could never afford it.
That's why I like to print to PDF; then you not only have a copy for off-line use, you can then print ranges of pages as well. For Win/Linux, you'll have to buy a program for this I believe, MacOS X has it built-in. Don't know about Android.
lots of good stuff thank you trying to find the problem on a sony da80es right channel fuzzy it is in the pre amp somewhere I am trying to pin point it down aby tips thank you for your videos
My 7ES, exact same problems, with an electrolytic cap on the A board loose as well. Odd that Sony would let something like this pass, or is it just an inherent problem. Regardless, thanks much for the very informative video, and for sharing your expertise. Aloha from Maui.
Not sure if it was mentioned yet but - You can highlight ONLY the section you want to print and then hit CTRL-P and in the lower left corner of that box that pops up tic the Selection radio button under the Print Range section. That should only print the highlighted section and nothing else. This is for windows only. YMMV with other OSs.
Excellent video 12VV, you give us confidence for professional techs, thanks. btw, I'd like to see some military repairs. If you might get a hold of some military surplus for a look inside. Perhaps a transceiver from a ship or aircraft. Don
That's because it is built NOT to fail. Same with spacecraft such as satellites. There is no way to service them, so they are designed to be exceptionally reliable, and that design / build comes at an extreme cost. Manufactures could build gear that doesn't fail, and can be abused. They don't want to. They want to build for the least cost, so they can build and sell lots. As long as it is good enough to last past the warranty is all that matters now.
I know these are older videos, however the information contained within these videos is timeless and can be applied to many different situations, or lets say, other amplifiers with similar but different problems, trouble shooting, and tracing out the path and identifying and solving the problem. My case in point, a STR DE998 which is a 7.1 120watt/channel that has two channels that are not outputting any sound. I believe at one point there was sound but sometimes it would cackle and cut out and just eventually stopped working. Going to tear it apart and start chasing down those IC's and check solder connections first, then do voltage tests to see if I get the 55V on the IC's outputs. I would not have known to look for an open resistor and how to check it, but you found it 18k Ohm, where did you find the data sheets on the amps you are servicing from Sony? Thanks for sharing.
Awesome video, thank you. The 10 Ohm resistor you replaced goes into the center pin of a three-pin transistor-looking component, then a side pin of that goes to the UPC2581's. If working, all three pins on this mystery component should be at +40 or -40 volts (each voltage has one). Do you know if this is a regulator or switch? I was not getting this on the +40V side, so as a last-ditch effort, I bypassed the component, and that got my unit to work. I need to pull it to see what it is, and then replace it. By the way, I found that the UPC2581's drain the p/s capacitors when the unit is off, so be careful if they're not getting these voltages, as the power supply will continue to hold +40 or -40 volts for hours or even a day! Thanks for the fix!
Fusible resistors protecting the amps voltage rails commonly go open on Sony AV kit, the old N9000ES very commonly failed due to the two 1 ohm fusible resistors. My father has a VA555ES (DA5ES in the states I think) and the display is very dark indeed. I'd like to go through it sometime and get it back to full brightness, due these vacuum style displays sometimes just dim quickly with age? I've seen many much older and used more frequently so I would be surprised if they did but you may well have much more experience than me so I thought I'd ask first. Good job fixing this lovely amp!
+Ben Smith VFD displays last a very long time. I have a clock that has been running continually since 1979, so 37 years and it is still bright as anything. I have a microwave from 1989 still bright, and I have a 10 year old Panasonic DVD recorder that it is getting dim. It is usually the voltage is getting low on one of the supplies, usually caused by a capacitor in the power supply. VFD tubes require both a + and - voltage for DC driven tubes. Most use AC on the filiments, but some use DC with a slight negative bias on it.Its all about voltage difference between the anode and the cathode. Then there is the screen that bias the anodes OFF unless there is a higher potential + voltage on the anode.How they operate is the screen is normally negative biased to repel the electrons spewing off the heated cathode (wires in the front) and when the segment is lit, a high + voltage is applied to the anode (segment). The positive voltage is quite high, 40-60 volts on most tubes. If that voltage is low, then the segment is dim. If the screen bias is too high the display is dim. If the screen is too low then all the segments will glow all the time. Of course the filament (cathode) could wear out, it is an electron tube so they can loose emission over time especially of the heater is heated too hot, but usually it is not the display tube it is the driver circuit.
+12voltvids It's fed by 32v DC and 5v DC so I'll try caps C102 and C104 (C103 is a 100n ceramic SMT cap, I'll replace it anyway). C102 sits on +32v so that looks to be the main candidate for replacement. I'll post findings here if that's ok for others to follow and thankyou very much for your kind input, sorry I don't know your name, kind regards, Ben. :)
Back in the 70’s, I was trained to solder in the NASA way. That training is setup to minimize solder on a board. People tend to have passed this down as gospel. This is for weight purposes. Using more solder on a joint in a piece of sound equipment is a good idea. More solder better the joint, weight is not an issue.
Just a suggestion, bend the legs of the ic's flat to the board before soldering, even scrape off some solder resist first. This will massively increase the contact area and hence joint reliability long term.
Thats when Sony made some of the finest AV receivers on the market. You had Sonys regular range of Hi-fi equipment budget made then..... Sony made QS Range stood for Quality Standard & ES Range meant Extended Standard basicly their flagship range series. Sony sadly stopped around 2006 making both their famous QS & ES ranges to me that's when Sony stopped making absolutely quality Stereo Hi-fi audiophile grade components. Very sad day that was. I personally owned sevral QS and 1 ES Range models during the late 90's to early 00"s before moving into Denon & Marantz. Sonys QS ES ranges were built like tanks the build quality was outstanding!. Peace ✌️ out from London UK 🇬🇧 🇬🇧 🇬🇧
+alphabeets Trace fractures don't happen that often, usually result from severe overheating, or arcing. I'm surprized that someone hasn't picked up on the big sign wave on the heat syncs!
+12voltvids I wonder if you mean the S-Fin design of the power amp heatsinks? The idea behind it is that each fin on the heatsink will have a different resonant frequency, which is supposed to cut down on harmonic distortion. I own the same model receiver. It's very good and I like that the design does not rely on a cooling fan. And, despite this, there are still people badmouthing all Sony audio equipment... Don't get me wrong, they did have some turkeys, but this isn't one of them (and that seems fairly typical of many ES series equipment; they are much better than many would assume just because they're Sony).
On new generation receivers HDMI boards are filing mostly. I guess will be useful to see repair on that units; But how reliable can be HDMI board repair-reflow? Will it last?
Are these type of failures do to ROHS compliant manufacturing? I'm wondering if the same problem would happen as frequently if the boards were assembled with good ole 60/40? Thanks for your instructive videos!
Correct, leaded solder is less brittle and handles the stress of heating and cooling of components much better. The problem with lead is not so much washing your hands after handling it, but when people throw things out that have leaded solder. If it goes to a land fill the lead can leach into ground water (not that ground water doesn't already have lead in it due to lead being in the ground naturally. Until the 70's many homes were built with lead water pipes. So the government is banning things that are bad for us. Can't figure out why that can't do the same thing about smoking. That's bad for the smokers, and everyone around them.
In Canada Smoking has been banned in all public enclosed spaces for years. No smoking in the work place, no smoking in pubs or restaurants. It is also banned in private cars if there are children under the age of 16 in the vehicle, and in public parks and beaches. You also can not smoke outside within 3 metres (10 feet) of a doorway, window, or air intake to a public building such as a restaurant.I'm all for the ban. Now I can go out to a restaurant and actually enjoy my dinner.
I have a STR-DG500 model that I bought in 2006 from the now closed Circuit City Store. If any of these problems happen I will just replace the unit with a new one. I think it would be cheaper to buy a new unit then to have the old one repaired.
You get what you pay for. The older stuff has held it's value because it was built from better quality components. Modern stuff is very cheap and very light weight by comparison. Sure these old units had faults, but many faults were easy to rectify, unlike the new ones which bury everything into single LSI chips and DSP chips. I walked away from the service business in 2003 as I could see where it was headed, and I got out as soon as I had the opportunity. I don't repair much these days, except for older vintage equipment. The fault on this unit was a very common problem, easily repaired.
I have an older Sony amplifier that I am going to attempt a repair. Don't worry I am not new to working with electricity, Respect the power. Anyway I have a lot of things wrong with it including dead power transistors. Bad capacitors. Tons of bad joints, it's going to take a while.
good soldering job...seems like the way it comes from the factory there isn't enough solder on the connections. I think it's good to add a little more when you re-solder them.
+Bri G. I'm waiting for that shit disturber to kick the crap out of my soldering like he normally does. That's OK. I just overhauled my 33 year old Betamax, and god forbid I substituted a part. I am just waiting for the "engineers" out there to lecture me about that. Stay tuned, it is being edited, and it should be a long boring video with lots of commercials to piss people off! BUT, I did have to trouble shoot, with test equipment on multiple boards to find a single bad component. Not bad for someone that knows nothing about electronics (grin)
I have no complaints except maybe I use smaller solder because I was often leaving solder bridges on stuff and this drove the owner of the shop crazy. I find it's better for me to use the smaller stuff. Anyway nice to see watch someone who takes pride in their work and wants to repair things instead of tossing them to the curb.
+Bri G. I haven't bought solder in 20 or more years. I do have a roll of the thin stuff around here somewhere. The stuff I am currently using I found in the recycle bin at work. Someone cleaning up old stuff at work tossed it, because they don't solder wires anymore in my field. It is all fiber optic now, so copper is not being installed. Its great old 60/40 USA made solder, which is superior to the cheap crap that comes out from countries with lower manufacturing standards.When it is gone I will have to break down and buy some more, but until then I will just keep using the free stuff. I don't have many issues with bridging.
At&T came out with the modular spice in 1976. Back in the old days the splicers hand twisted each pair together by hand and then soldered them.Then they poured hot wax into the splice case to seal it. I never did splicing but often assisted the cable guys in testing pairs & locating trouble.
+Bri G. That would predate the amp connector which was replaced by the 25 Pair modular. The frames used to be all soldered. Some of our old frames still have soldered terminal. They were replaced with wire wrap, and now punch down blocks. I worked as a splicer for a while leading up to the Olympic games.
Well done sir :-D, pesky solder diaphragms, never enough solder on pcbs ;-( Nothing wrong with your soldering, they wont break again :-). I found the grey line of death many times, a frend of mine had a problem with a crt based computer monitor, flickering colour. I said "check the pcb on the crt plug"..... he said there was no bad joints, i said bring the pcb to me, i could see the grey rings of death a mile away!!, all around the i.c's and transistors. After a resolder i sent it back, he said it works perfect, some people are blind.
+zx8401ztv Yes or ignorant, like the professional engineers in here that criticize my solder work. You know what, in the 40+ years I have been soldering (yes I started very young, when I was only about 10) I have yet to have to go back and rework any that I did. I have had equipment break down again, with bad connections, but never one that I had repaired before.
+12voltvids You wont find me having a go at your soldering, ive been a repairer since i was around 18, im 49 now so thats a good few years, but not as long as you. I enjoy talking to other repairers but some are just too big headed and think they are above everyone else. Ive learnt "There is allways someone better than me around the corner". Keeps me grounded :-)
+zx8401ztv I only have a few years on you. I started tinkering with electronics at about 10, in high school I was taken into a shop on an apprentiship at 16. When I was in high school they offered electronics courses, and by the time I was in grade 11, I completed the grade 12 electronics course, and my instructor set me up on first year college electronics curriculum. My project for that was building a b/w TV camera from scratch. That meant designing the oscillator's a free running horizontal oscillator and vertical locked to line frequency, winding the yoke coils, and magnetic focus coil by hand using toilet paper rolls for forums to mount the windings on, designing the board. I was so happy with it, and it actually worked. I was proud of my accomplishment. I wish I still had it as that really meant something to me, but I had placed it outside at my parents house where I still lived at the time, so I could see the front yard from the back of the house. One morning I awoke and had a blank monitor.I ran out side, and found that someone had used a few milk crates to get up and steal the camera. I was most upset, and even though insurance did buy me a much better camera to replace it (the ikegami that I fixed in an earlier video) it still wasn't the same as that fuzzy, low contrast picture from my personal design, and hand made camera I made taking a 1st year electrical engineering course while still in high school. Funny thing is I didn't want to get into electronics. I wanted to get into broadcast, and after high school that is what I took at college. That didn't pan out, as there was no work for us graduates, so I by chance fired off an application to the Sony corp, and was hired. It was only a temp position to fix all the Betamax machines that needed capacitor and idler tire upgrades but it set the wheels in motion for the next 20 years at a very busy warranty depot that I rose from grunt, to master tech, and then service manager. I don't pretend to know everything. I only know what I know, and am always learning. Take Plasma and LCD Tvs. I never fixed a single unit during my career as a professional tech, they came along after I left, but over the past few years I have fixed several of them.
+12voltvids Wow you were really advanced to be able to make something as difficult as a scanning video camera at that age :-D. You make me feel like a complete idiot, but as ive been telling my frends for years "Im just an idiot, i only know the basics and i can guess the rest" i dont mind at all LOL :-D. . I got nothing from school, no electronics, they didnt care about the needs of odd people like me, i learnt by taking things apart and learning the basic blocks, and as time went on i built up some mental basics, and reading diagrams, no training or nightschool, just a mind that could not understand textbooks on electronics so i learnt another way. . How ive got away with repairing everything over 30 years with success i just dont know ha ha :-D. . Apart from repairing about all the c.b radios in the uk (seemed like it), ive repaired ham radios for hams (allways made me laugh), power supplys, tv/dvd/vcr's and all sorts of odd stuff. . They allways expect me to know everything, even modern technology, but most of the time ive noticed its an improved version of something i allready know about, mad aint it lol. I was the electronic repair section of a factory once, but after 5 years i just became so stressed out i became mentally ill, never mind. Sorry about the long waffle :-(
The camera was the toughest project I tackled when I was 18. I did have a working schematic from a Hitachi vidicon camera to work from. So I basically copied that design for the layout. I still had to calculate the deflection yoke design myself. I had wanted to build a color TV, as Heathkit had one, but my parents were not about to fork out 2000 for this kit, with no guarantee that it would ever work, and it was a tube set, so the school was leery of having me work on something that generated that high of voltage, from a liability side. So the camera, which still ended up being about 300 in parts, the tube being the most expensive part.When I finished high school, with my first year college engineering under my belt I abandoned electronics, because my math grades were not good enough to get into a full engineering course. I blame my high school councillor for that. He said that trades math is what I needed, and I actually need calculus and advanced algebra. So no post secondary in electronics for me. Countless factory sponsored training courses got me the knowledge I required to work on the equipment I dealt with. I wrote the red seal challenge exam and passed with flying colors when I was 20.It was an interesting career, but looking back, I should have gone to the phone company way back then. I could be like some of my co-workers. Retired with full pension by age 53.
Hey, i have a str-da3es and the right channels cut out but when i fastory reset the receiver the right channels start working but when you turn it up it turns off and wont work till you reset it again but everything still works with the digital inputs what do you think it is?
Hello I have a sony str-da50 es amplifier which does not light up any more signs of life, I cleaned it, redone all the welds I tested the power board all the voltages are present on the connector ( cnp910) except on the pin (stop) there is no voltage I change the IC901 integrated circuit (NJM2103D) that does not solve the problem, I would like to have your advice, thanks.
+12voltvids - Is your iron one of the Chinese clones of the Hakko 936? I've just bought a new one from Circuit Specialists which I reckon is a Hakko clone, with a few frills added. Not had a chance to use it yet, but it looks OK. I assume that yours performs for you?
I did a review of it in another video. I'm on the second iron. The first one broke in a week. Store gave me a new iron. Tip didn't last long. Have a original hakko tip on it now. Gets the job done. Was cheap. Yes Chinese clone.
One more thing - If you have a computer in you work shop, you may want to check out the totally free software called Open Broadcast. You can set a camera on the meter alone and on the work while superimposing all video simultaneously in to one video file in real time.
outstanding work wish we could find people with this kind of knowledge in cincinnati ohio.they tell you to just throw this newer sony es in the trash.i disagree.they wont even change the leds or bulbs in the 1970 units.takes to much time.
+robert west I know all about it. That is why so many old tech like me are keeping busy working out of our garage. There are a few vintage audio shops around, one guy offered me a job working for him, but I really don't want to get back into this business. I work now in a different field, for a large corporation with pension and benefits, so I made the right choice to get out of the consumer repair field when I did and now it is just a hobby. I actually enjoy it more now as I am not under pressure. This amp I spent about 3 hours on. Had I been in the shop environment I would have been under pressure to get it done within 30-45 minutes, and the repair would have easily cost the customer 150. The shop would have charged that .10 resistor out at probably 15.00 and called it a special fusible resistor, or some special word to throw the customer off base. It was all about making as much profit in least amount of time.
thats great just makes it hard on collectors.when we cant get these nice items repaired.or they end up at goodwill or in a landfill.like your sony that wasnt a 99.00 dollar item new i would guess over 1000 dollars.that is there top of the line model line up.some even had the copper chassis.shame to have to throw them away thats what i am saying because the stuff today is throw away.take my pioneer sx-950 what would the cost be to build that today.or my rotel 990bx amp.just nice to see someone who can work on these things.it is becoming a lost art.
+robert west I have a nice old Sansui 9900 receiver in my storage lockup. It works, but needs some attention, switches and controls gummed up. Have had many offers, but declined them all. Those units are now selling on the used market for over 1K! I also have a McIntosh 1600 Tube FM receiver (no AM) that I also won't be parting with, as it's value is increasing every year. Many of the tubes in it are original McIntosh tubes, so no I don't use it regularly because I don't want to wear out the now very difficult to find parts.
As always nice video, thanks :-) One question though: Replacing that one resistor with 2 in series, is that not a bad idea ? i mean the ohms value i have no problem with, it is close enough, but if it is suposed to be a safety feature (open if overloadet), you have effectively made the fusing current double, same as replacing a fuse with one twice the size, does that not worry you ? Greatings from Denmark.
+Morten Rolsing No the current limiting is the same. They are both 1/4 watt resistors. They are in series. Had I put them in parallel then you are correct, it would have doubled the current handling capability to 1/2 watt before going open. If I had put 2 -20 ohm in parallel to make a 10 ohm, then I would have had to go down to 1/8 watt to get the same max current.I did have some 10 ohm, in 1/2 watt and 1 watt size but that is why I chose to put 2 in series so I have the same power rating.
+12voltvids I agree, if you use 2 x 20 ohm parallel (1/4w) you end up with the equivalent of 1 x 10ohm (1/2W) resistor. But if you use 2 x 4,7ohm (1/4W) in series, you get 9,4 ohm, let´s say 10 ohms (1/2w) since the voltage drop is shred between the resistors. Therefore each resistor only needs to dissipate half the energy. 1 x 10 ohm (1/4w) resistor with 160mA running through it, has a voltage drop of 1,6V over it. 1,6V =10ohm*0,16A The power dissipation is P=U*I 0,256W = 1,6V * 0,16A The maximum Amperage a 10ohm (1/4w) resistor is able to provide is therefore approximately 160mA before burning 2 x 5 ohm (each 1/4w) in series resistors, with 160mA running through them, has a voltage drop of 1,6V over them combined. 1,6V = 10ohm*0,16A Thus 0,8v over each since they share the current and they share the total voltage drop when they are in series. The power dissipation in each resistor: P=U*I 0,128W = 0,8V * 0,16A. Therefore 2 x 5 ohms resistors (each 1/4w) in series are able to provide 320mA before burning, or am I doing something wrong in my calculations. When resistors are in series they share the load.
@@mortenrolsing7137 , no 12voltvids did it correctly. Two parallel 4.7 ohm, 1/4 watt resistors makes only a 2.35 ohm resistor with double the power rating (1/2 watt). So he is using two 4.7 ohm resistors in series, which will add up to 9.4 ohms, and have the same 1/4 watt power rating (close enough to the original 10 ohm, 1/4 watt resistor he removed).
Hi Johnny I still dont agree, you are right that 2x 4,7 ohm paralel resistors equals 1 x 2,35ohm 1/2 watt, because they share the current. 2x4,7 ohm (1/4w) resistors In series makes 9,4 ohm (1/2w), because the resistors in this case share the voltage drop, half over each, that’s why the power dissipation is also shared equal over the two resistors, that means that each of the two resistors only get half as hot as one ~10ohm (1/4w), and will only open up when double the power is dissipated as i the single 10ohm (1/4w) resistor.
@@mortenrolsing7137 , truth be told, I have almost no knowledge of electronics. I watch these videos trying to learn. I derived my previous response from here electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/172855/when-to-use-a-1-4-watt-resistor-vs-1-2-watt-resistor
another great video hey I know its a long shot but I thought with your years of knowledge you might be able to narrow down an issue I'm having with my sony receiver, I have a sony str-km7000 it has hdmi switching three inputs and one of them has been dead since I got it, I got it used but never bothered to try and fix it as I only ever had 2 hdmi devices but recently another commonly used hdmi in put has failed in the same way as the other port, i.e when connected to a pc it is detected by the pc and all devices show up but you don't get any audio or video and the receiver shows no sign of an input being plugged in, I was considering just trying to find a junked one and getting the hdmi board from that but I'm not so sure that would fix this as its still showing as a device to the pc so its not dead as such any advice would be great thanks Luke.
+MrLatte27 Its a shot in the dark.Either solder has cracked on one of the HDMI sockets, due to the weight of HDMI cables, or the chip that does the switching, which is probably a BGA device has suffered a broken connection between the chip and the board. BGA is such a shitty way to mount parts.
+12voltvids im going to agree with you on that the chip that does the switching has a broken joint or something as the hdmi connector has not been moved for months at all and the hdmi cables i use are thin and have little to no stress on the connection and it just randomly stopped working when i went to turn it on i might hit with my heat gun and see what i get.
Q1609 (upside down) @ 19:27...is that cracked? You seemed to have paused on that for a few seconds. Love your wit and expertise on these repairs, motivated me to start investigating problems instead of trashing products. Gonna reflow an Onkyo DTS chip today!
![[UNCUT] ลูกหมี-ลิลลี่ เหงียน เปิดใจฟาด ปู มัณฑนา I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 15 ก.ค.67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/FKQ60Y7bJ6s/mqdefault.jpg)
Finally, someone on TH-cam that does tech and actually knows what he's doing! :-) I really learn a lot from your videos sir! :-)
That was an awesome fix. It is so easy to get demoralized when you think you've fixed a problem and there's yet another problem. Logical troubleshooting and experience wins the day. And, it's so much fun to watch.
you are amazing you make it look so easy .the best electronics investigator on youtube
Brilliant! Thank you so much, I've just fixed my Sony DB930 after watching this. It had many dry solder joints causing the relays/sound to click in and out. In the process of soldering those I must have taken out resistor R592 as once the relays were fixed I had no +ve voltage to that area. Traced it back and replaced the 1ohm resistor and it's all working - no more bashing it on the top when the sound cuts out!
Fantastic job, and good instructions. I like your method of test and tracking faults. Thanks for posting.
Thanks for giving me the courage to repair a "popping audio" issue with my Sony STR-DA4ES! Turned out to be poor solder joints on those big NEC chips on the A-Class board. I also reflowed the joints on the main audio board's NEC chips. Problem solved! I posted a video on my TH-cam channel and gave you a well-deserved shout-out. Keep up the great work!
We talk about 'dry 'joints here in the UK, I'm glad to hear you pronounce the word 'solder' as it's spelled, some Americans I've notice say 'sodder' and they're not even swearing! Interesting work, thanks for providing such interesting stuff to watch.
I love your videos. Why wasn't someone like you around to teach this stuff when I was at school !!
Same here.However,in my day(the '60s),all I had was an old copy of "Everybody's Radio Manual" from 1954 which was a reprint of the one put out twenty years earlier.It served me well being an guitar player who still prefers tube amps.All we learned in high school was basic electricity;no electronics.
Good job, feels good when you nail those faults!
Very good and learning video.
Step by step how to tackle the problem.
Fix loose joint soldering, check the ribbon cables. Then check ic. Where the 55vlt are dropping.
Finally the was a bad resistor.
That's fix the problems.
👍❤️ Good.
Great repair and excellent video as always.I learn language and electronics fixing,thanks a lot !.
Outstanding repair, most educational thanks
Great Fix - I used to work for Sony and there was never a shortage of information.
Tip - When you print, don’t use the Print All option, but print 1 of 5 for example, or the page the main data is on.
If it’s only 1 page press the Print Screen button on the keyboard top right
Its one thing to do a teardown and talk about it as if you know something but its another thing to actually troubleshoot and know your shit. You are definitely an expert in the latter and probably why you are in the top 3 of my favorite youtubers (I'm subscribed to almost 100). Thank you again for the great video!
+Jay Walt Thanks, I appreciate comments like this.
Lets see if I fare as well in my next project. Constructing a tube amp, and the instructions are all in Japanese.
You are in your garage on a work bench covered with a rug using minimal and cheap test equipment. Couple that with Jays comments. You are quite the skilled craftsmen. I also agree with Jay that you are one my top favorite youtubers to watch. Thank you for what you do.
Roy Mercer Theres a few other good ones that I think are on par with him. No worries though, there never enough content to watch!
I have a Sony DA5ES similar to the one in this video. I’ve recently experienced scary loud popping and crackling sounds after powering up, and sometimes it would go into protection. I was ready to take it to a local repair shop, but then saw the video. I have the same IC’s, but three of them. Sure enough, the solder connections were cracked exactly as you said. I resoldered them and the issue is fixed. I can’t thank you enough. Your experience shows. Thanks again!
Very common fault on all those units that use those type of voltage amp ic's to drive the outputs.
@calee4nyaboy
Well, don't use lead free shit solder for starters. That is the main factor to these problems.
@calee4nyaboy
No need to wick up solder. Lead free is 97% tin 3% copper. Leaded solder 60% tin 40% lead. So what happens when you reflow with leaded? You end you end up with mostly lean and tin and a very small amount of copper which is fine because the copper will bond with the board and wire.
Extremely detailed, well narrated video. Thanks for sharing your expert skills to us up and comers. You ever been faced with an STR DA-3000 ES? It is mine and it's just an awesome sounding reciever/amp. Sonys ES line is premium equipment for the consumer in my eyes. Built with serviceability in mind which is why I want to keep this thing as long as possible. Thanks for your time again.
Love my STR GX 800 ES audio only bought in '92
Very good, quite instructive.
The designer of the massive heatsinks had a sense of humor when he incorporated that sine wave dot design on them.
Great video. Thoroughly enjoyed it.
That is very interesting. It reminds me of the "secret sauce" some gourmet chefs use to disguise the horse meat in their dishes.
I guess it is a subtle way to distinguish a product feature no doubt but does it really make a difference? Did they patent it? Nonetheless, a very interesting aside. Thank you for that new knowledge.
Another interesting repair, thanks =D
That was a nice amp i always liked the sony es models i have the 300 disc es player from that time fixed all the belts and replaced the optical
I would be happy with a quarter of the knowledge you have,....... liked, subscribed, and donated and happy to do so......
Ray H. From the U.K.
Amazing thank you this video was the reason I could repair my 4es!
Nice fix (fixes) and good technique...
Perfect 👌 I like what you are doing and you know your story
Can you please help me I have a Sony str km3000 with a buzzing sound I can't even reduce volume and if I check on the IC I can't find my -37v pin 15
I thoroughly enjoy all your vids when you are troubleshooting to repair these obscure issues. Oh, and don't listen to critics about too much solder. Too much would look like a giant ball. Yours are totally fine. 5 Stars
Thank you for the video
very interesting !!
Thankful that solder is so easy to fix!!!
Awesome videos! You're a genius!
Thanks for the tutorial so I was able to fix my receiver Sony STR- DE-445
I have same STR DE-445. No sound on right channel. What was problem and what did you do to fix yours? Just re-solder joints?
@@jimle22
Start simple and look at solder joints/ Connections first. It could be a bad component on your preamp or you your finals for that channel.
Very nice video! Thanks!
When I took the National Radio Institute course on TV Audio Video electronics repair course, I don't remember them putting a lot of emphasis on bad electrolytic caps. causing so many problems.
Frank
Frank Reiser Video/Audio Service
thanks for you i learn a lot from your video
Interesting repair, reminds me of when i worked on a STR-DE445 i think it was which was years ago. I think it had about the same IPM type of modues, found a heap of bad solder joints fixed them another free 5.1ch reciever :)
+Hagis2k These IPM and IPOM (integrated power module, and integrated power output module respectively) have been a source of headache for many years. Even on the projection TV of years gone by. They would use 3 stereo IPOM to drive the horizontal and vertical convergence yokes on each of the 3 tubes. Then Sony decided that was 1 too many module, so they created a 3 channel and would put the red H+V on one plus the green H correction. The other module would handle the Blue H+V and the green V correction. These modules would sell for 100 each. Other companies that used the standard stereo modules, they would only be like 20. Sure there was 3 of them, but you could buy all 3 for 60, whereas the 2 Sony custom ones would run 200. They all failed the same way. Not enough solder on the pins that get hot and then they fracture.
Looks like the early 90s onkyo stereo and pro logic receivers insite VERY good stuff! Big Black Heavy, good clean power. Better than many "botique" audiophile amps like "Carat" (poor control when bass guits busy)
32:00 In the print menu, you can select a range of pages to be print out.
Some web browsers don't support that, so printing the page to PDF file first can be a solution.
I love your work! You use compressed air to uncover a myriad of faults! Keep the videos coming! Andrew from Australia!
Thank you! Great video!
These are great Video's I have this Exact Amp only Mine Is In the Loft In It's Box now. I have upgraded to a Atmos one. The Printing Problem. You should Go up To FILE then PRINT PREVIEW, Here You can select how Many Pages You Want to Print. Hope This Helps.
new iron works great!
Awesome receiver ! They don't make them like this anymore ! Just cheap plastic these days with atmos and hdmi ..Nice repair !
That Sony ES stuff was nice equipment. My family had a 1992? Sony Trinitron XBR TV that we got an ES receiver with it back in the 90's. I think it was a Dolby Surround receiver (before pro-logic.) I always laughed because the volume knob was labeled "Attenuator"
_"I always laughed because the volume knob was labeled 'Attenuator'"_
It did accurately describe what it does, though.
Lower volume = greater attenuation of the signal's level going to the power amplifier.
nice job mate.
great , as always ...
Colored magic markers help out a lot
What can I say, thanks for making videos
+Robert Mattison Thanks.Viewers that find these videos helpful should consider a small donation though the donate tab on the home youtube page.For clarification, I do receive a very small monthly payment from youtube when people watch full ads and click on banners. I don't when they skip ads, use ad blockers or watch from mobile platforms.
Nice repair......:)
nice again video sir.
Very useful video
In an Aiwa (made by Sony) amplifier I repaired there was the same problem, bad solder joints on those driver ICs. But in my amp, the bad connections had caused the output transistors to short. By the way Aiwa did not get Sony's nice design, I had to take that amplifier completely apart to gain access to the underside of the circuit board.
+DrCassette Aiwa was not Sony. They were founded as AIKO Denki Sangyo Co., Ltd and made microphones.Sony started slowly acquiring Aiwa shares in the late 60's.Sony by 1969 quietly was Aiwa's majority shareholder effectively allowing Sony by 1979 when Walkman was released to have pre-planed products and marketing of Aiwa to not directly compete in many model areas. This gave Sony a double edged sword allowing fast dominance of large market share right from start in Walkman markets worldwide.Where Sony made many of their products in Japan, the Aiwa branded products were made in China, or Indonesia. Great marketing though, as salesmen took the baton, and ran with it. Everyone out there thought that Aiwa was a less expensive Sony. Not true. Aiwa might have been owned by Sony, but they were not competing with themselves. That is why you see a huge build quality difference. They are made in different factories, to different standards.Anyway, back to the solder joint issue, that is exactly why I did not power it up until I checked it. I didn't want to blow something up. It is a good rule of thumb. If something is going intermittent, look at the fault BEFORE it becomes a bigger more expensive fault. Same rule applies to cars. When you hear a squeak when you apply the brakes, act now, not when it starts grinding, that is unless you want to part with a bigger wad of cash.
+12voltvids
Right on.
Sony owned Aiwa, but aside from that, there's not very much in common between the two.
Yes, I know, saying "Aiwa (Made by Sony)" was simplifying things a little too much. It's more like Aiwa (made with Sony's approval).
hahaha let me find out you had a sears coldspot dehumidifier running in the background! I remember that noisy thing like it was just yesterday. It had a silvere strip along the top I payed like $15 for the thing at the thrift store and it lasted me for years untill one day do to me not ever oiling the poor thing I came home from college and found it all seized up and just the compressor humming. It had a plastic bucket u had to empty or you could also have it drain off. The fan blades were metal. The noise in the background sounded exactly like it. I am surprised how I completely forgot how the thing sounded untill I watched this video.
Actually it is a carrier central heat pump.
I use to own the ES line. Expensive product by Sony but great quality.
Sony definately did have some good product with the ES line. It was originally called the Esprit line, and those pieces with the Esprit badge on them are even rarer. For those unfamiliar with the Sony Esprit line, I don't blame you. They were very high end, very expensive and all 100% hand built. Not a huge suscess, they were the pre-runner to the ES line. Of course there was the pre Esprit equipment that was out a couple of years prior to the esprit era. Esprit ran 78-80 if memory serves me correct. I remember drooling over the stuff at the hifi shop, but I could never afford it.
When I print out data sheets I use the pdf portion , then pick only the page you want. wasted lots of toner before I learned that one.
That's why I like to print to PDF; then you not only have a copy for off-line use, you can then print ranges of pages as well. For Win/Linux, you'll have to buy a program for this I believe, MacOS X has it built-in. Don't know about Android.
lots of good stuff thank you trying to find the problem on a sony da80es right channel fuzzy it is in the pre amp somewhere I am trying to pin point it down aby tips thank you for your videos
Those voltage amp ICS do fail in a distortion failure mode. Unfortunately they are not available.
@@12voltvids do you work on these ? or can I send it to you thank you
thank 12voltvids i learned a lot from u.. i want to like u..
That was funny! 29 minutes later trying to get that connector in.lol
I think fractured solder connection is a better term. Cold normally would be at time of manufacture.
My 7ES, exact same problems, with an electrolytic cap on the A board loose as well. Odd that Sony would let something like this pass, or is it just an inherent problem. Regardless, thanks much for the very informative video, and for sharing your expertise. Aloha from Maui.
Not sure if it was mentioned yet but - You can highlight ONLY the section you want to print and then hit CTRL-P and in the lower left corner of that box that pops up tic the Selection radio button under the Print Range section. That should only print the highlighted section and nothing else. This is for windows only. YMMV with other OSs.
Also is the same on Linux. And Linux and Mac share jointly developed print drivers, so it's identical.
Thank you
Excellent video 12VV, you give us confidence for professional techs, thanks. btw, I'd like to see some military repairs. If you might get a hold of some military surplus for a look inside. Perhaps a transceiver from a ship or aircraft. Don
That's because it is built NOT to fail. Same with spacecraft such as satellites. There is no way to service them, so they are designed to be exceptionally reliable, and that design / build comes at an extreme cost. Manufactures could build gear that doesn't fail, and can be abused. They don't want to. They want to build for the least cost, so they can build and sell lots. As long as it is good enough to last past the warranty is all that matters now.
I know these are older videos, however the information contained within these videos is timeless and can be applied to many different situations, or lets say, other amplifiers with similar but different problems, trouble shooting, and tracing out the path and identifying and solving the problem. My case in point, a STR DE998 which is a 7.1 120watt/channel that has two channels that are not outputting any sound. I believe at one point there was sound but sometimes it would cackle and cut out and just eventually stopped working. Going to tear it apart and start chasing down those IC's and check solder connections first, then do voltage tests to see if I get the 55V on the IC's outputs. I would not have known to look for an open resistor and how to check it, but you found it 18k Ohm, where did you find the data sheets on the amps you are servicing from Sony?
Thanks for sharing.
it's somewhat too bad no one likes these older pre-HDMI receivers, this thing was a beast back in it's day.
Very good....
Lead free solder is a pain in the ass for this, but yea these are really nice amps
Awesome video, thank you. The 10 Ohm resistor you replaced goes into the center pin of a three-pin transistor-looking component, then a side pin of that goes to the UPC2581's. If working, all three pins on this mystery component should be at +40 or -40 volts (each voltage has one). Do you know if this is a regulator or switch? I was not getting this on the +40V side, so as a last-ditch effort, I bypassed the component, and that got my unit to work. I need to pull it to see what it is, and then replace it. By the way, I found that the UPC2581's drain the p/s capacitors when the unit is off, so be careful if they're not getting these voltages, as the power supply will continue to hold +40 or -40 volts for hours or even a day! Thanks for the fix!
Fusible resistors protecting the amps voltage rails commonly go open on Sony AV kit, the old N9000ES very commonly failed due to the two 1 ohm fusible resistors. My father has a VA555ES (DA5ES in the states I think) and the display is very dark indeed. I'd like to go through it sometime and get it back to full brightness, due these vacuum style displays sometimes just dim quickly with age? I've seen many much older and used more frequently so I would be surprised if they did but you may well have much more experience than me so I thought I'd ask first. Good job fixing this lovely amp!
+Ben Smith VFD displays last a very long time. I have a clock that has been running continually since 1979, so 37 years and it is still bright as anything. I have a microwave from 1989 still bright, and I have a 10 year old Panasonic DVD recorder that it is getting dim. It is usually the voltage is getting low on one of the supplies, usually caused by a capacitor in the power supply. VFD tubes require both a + and - voltage for DC driven tubes. Most use AC on the filiments, but some use DC with a slight negative bias on it.Its all about voltage difference between the anode and the cathode. Then there is the screen that bias the anodes OFF unless there is a higher potential + voltage on the anode.How they operate is the screen is normally negative biased to repel the electrons spewing off the heated cathode (wires in the front) and when the segment is lit, a high + voltage is applied to the anode (segment). The positive voltage is quite high, 40-60 volts on most tubes. If that voltage is low, then the segment is dim. If the screen bias is too high the display is dim. If the screen is too low then all the segments will glow all the time. Of course the filament (cathode) could wear out, it is an electron tube so they can loose emission over time especially of the heater is heated too hot, but usually it is not the display tube it is the driver circuit.
+12voltvids It's fed by 32v DC and 5v DC so I'll try caps C102 and C104 (C103 is a 100n ceramic SMT cap, I'll replace it anyway). C102 sits on +32v so that looks to be the main candidate for replacement. I'll post findings here if that's ok for others to follow and thankyou very much for your kind input, sorry I don't know your name, kind regards, Ben. :)
When you print, hit “options” , then “ current page” versus “all”
Back in the 70’s, I was trained to solder in the NASA way. That training is setup to minimize solder on a board. People tend to have passed this down as gospel. This is for weight purposes. Using more solder on a joint in a piece of sound equipment is a good idea. More solder better the joint, weight is not an issue.
Especially in high power connections where heat is involved. The thermal stresses will fracture the joint. Need lots of solder to reduce the chance.
@@12voltvids - agreed.
Just a suggestion, bend the legs of the ic's flat to the board before soldering, even scrape off some solder resist first. This will massively increase the contact area and hence joint reliability long term.
Why would I want to do that? I do want repeat business down the road when they break again! LOL
@@12voltvids :-)
Thats when Sony made some of the finest AV receivers on the market.
You had Sonys regular range of Hi-fi equipment budget made then.....
Sony made QS Range stood for Quality Standard &
ES Range meant Extended Standard basicly their flagship range series.
Sony sadly stopped around 2006 making both their famous QS & ES ranges to me that's when Sony stopped making absolutely quality Stereo Hi-fi audiophile grade components. Very sad day that was.
I personally owned sevral QS and 1 ES Range models during the late 90's to early 00"s before moving into Denon & Marantz. Sonys QS ES ranges were built like tanks the build quality was outstanding!. Peace ✌️ out from London UK 🇬🇧 🇬🇧 🇬🇧
ES = Elevated Standard
Now that was a LOT of solder pad fractures! Lucky none of the traces cracked.
+alphabeets Trace fractures don't happen that often, usually result from severe overheating, or arcing. I'm surprized that someone hasn't picked up on the big sign wave on the heat syncs!
+12voltvids
I wonder if you mean the S-Fin design of the power amp heatsinks?
The idea behind it is that each fin on the heatsink will have a different resonant frequency, which is supposed to cut down on harmonic distortion.
I own the same model receiver. It's very good and I like that the design does not rely on a cooling fan.
And, despite this, there are still people badmouthing all Sony audio equipment...
Don't get me wrong, they did have some turkeys, but this isn't one of them (and that seems fairly typical of many ES series equipment; they are much better than many would assume just because they're Sony).
On new generation receivers HDMI boards are filing mostly. I guess will be useful to see repair on that units;
But how reliable can be HDMI board repair-reflow? Will it last?
Are these type of failures do to ROHS compliant manufacturing? I'm wondering if the same problem would happen as frequently if the boards were assembled with good ole 60/40? Thanks for your instructive videos!
Correct, leaded solder is less brittle and handles the stress of heating and cooling of components much better. The problem with lead is not so much washing your hands after handling it, but when people throw things out that have leaded solder. If it goes to a land fill the lead can leach into ground water (not that ground water doesn't already have lead in it due to lead being in the ground naturally. Until the 70's many homes were built with lead water pipes. So the government is banning things that are bad for us. Can't figure out why that can't do the same thing about smoking. That's bad for the smokers, and everyone around them.
In Canada Smoking has been banned in all public enclosed spaces for years. No smoking in the work place, no smoking in pubs or restaurants. It is also banned in private cars if there are children under the age of 16 in the vehicle, and in public parks and beaches. You also can not smoke outside within 3 metres (10 feet) of a doorway, window, or air intake to a public building such as a restaurant.I'm all for the ban. Now I can go out to a restaurant and actually enjoy my dinner.
Nichicon Fine Gold caps :)
I have a STR-DG500 model that I bought in 2006 from the now closed Circuit City Store. If any of these problems happen I will just replace the unit with a new one. I think it would be cheaper to buy a new unit then to have the old one repaired.
You get what you pay for. The older stuff has held it's value because it was built from better quality components. Modern stuff is very cheap and very light weight by comparison. Sure these old units had faults, but many faults were easy to rectify, unlike the new ones which bury everything into single LSI chips and DSP chips.
I walked away from the service business in 2003 as I could see where it was headed, and I got out as soon as I had the opportunity. I don't repair much these days, except for older vintage equipment.
The fault on this unit was a very common problem, easily repaired.
I have an older Sony amplifier that I am going to attempt a repair. Don't worry I am not new to working with electricity, Respect the power. Anyway I have a lot of things wrong with it including dead power transistors. Bad capacitors. Tons of bad joints, it's going to take a while.
good soldering job...seems like the way it comes from the factory there isn't enough solder on the connections. I think it's good to add a little more when you re-solder them.
+Bri G. I'm waiting for that shit disturber to kick the crap out of my soldering like he normally does. That's OK. I just overhauled my 33 year old Betamax, and god forbid I substituted a part. I am just waiting for the "engineers" out there to lecture me about that. Stay tuned, it is being edited, and it should be a long boring video with lots of commercials to piss people off! BUT, I did have to trouble shoot, with test equipment on multiple boards to find a single bad component. Not bad for someone that knows nothing about electronics (grin)
I have no complaints except maybe I use smaller solder because I was often leaving solder bridges on stuff and this drove the owner of the shop crazy. I find it's better for me to use the smaller stuff. Anyway nice to see watch someone who takes pride in their work and wants to repair things instead of tossing them to the curb.
+Bri G. I haven't bought solder in 20 or more years. I do have a roll of the thin stuff around here somewhere. The stuff I am currently using I found in the recycle bin at work. Someone cleaning up old stuff at work tossed it, because they don't solder wires anymore in my field. It is all fiber optic now, so copper is not being installed. Its great old 60/40 USA made solder, which is superior to the cheap crap that comes out from countries with lower manufacturing standards.When it is gone I will have to break down and buy some more, but until then I will just keep using the free stuff. I don't have many issues with bridging.
At&T came out with the modular spice in 1976. Back in the old days the splicers hand twisted each pair together by hand and then soldered them.Then they poured hot wax into the splice case to seal it. I never did splicing but often assisted the cable guys in testing pairs & locating trouble.
+Bri G.
That would predate the amp connector which was replaced by the 25 Pair modular.
The frames used to be all soldered. Some of our old frames still have soldered terminal. They were replaced with wire wrap, and now punch down blocks. I worked as a splicer for a while leading up to the Olympic games.
Well done sir :-D, pesky solder diaphragms, never enough solder on pcbs ;-(
Nothing wrong with your soldering, they wont break again :-).
I found the grey line of death many times, a frend of mine had a problem with a crt based computer monitor, flickering colour.
I said "check the pcb on the crt plug"..... he said there was no bad joints, i said bring the pcb to me, i could see the grey rings of death a mile away!!, all around the i.c's and transistors.
After a resolder i sent it back, he said it works perfect, some people are blind.
+zx8401ztv Yes or ignorant, like the professional engineers in here that criticize my solder work. You know what, in the 40+ years I have been soldering (yes I started very young, when I was only about 10) I have yet to have to go back and rework any that I did. I have had equipment break down again, with bad connections, but never one that I had repaired before.
+12voltvids
You wont find me having a go at your soldering, ive been a repairer since i was around 18, im 49 now so thats a good few years, but not as long as you.
I enjoy talking to other repairers but some are just too big headed and think they are above everyone else.
Ive learnt "There is allways someone better than me around the corner".
Keeps me grounded :-)
+zx8401ztv I only have a few years on you. I started tinkering with electronics at about 10, in high school I was taken into a shop on an apprentiship at 16. When I was in high school they offered electronics courses, and by the time I was in grade 11, I completed the grade 12 electronics course, and my instructor set me up on first year college electronics curriculum. My project for that was building a b/w TV camera from scratch. That meant designing the oscillator's a free running horizontal oscillator and vertical locked to line frequency, winding the yoke coils, and magnetic focus coil by hand using toilet paper rolls for forums to mount the windings on, designing the board. I was so happy with it, and it actually worked. I was proud of my accomplishment. I wish I still had it as that really meant something to me, but I had placed it outside at my parents house where I still lived at the time, so I could see the front yard from the back of the house. One morning I awoke and had a blank monitor.I ran out side, and found that someone had used a few milk crates to get up and steal the camera. I was most upset, and even though insurance did buy me a much better camera to replace it (the ikegami that I fixed in an earlier video) it still wasn't the same as that fuzzy, low contrast picture from my personal design, and hand made camera I made taking a 1st year electrical engineering course while still in high school. Funny thing is I didn't want to get into electronics. I wanted to get into broadcast, and after high school that is what I took at college. That didn't pan out, as there was no work for us graduates, so I by chance fired off an application to the Sony corp, and was hired. It was only a temp position to fix all the Betamax machines that needed capacitor and idler tire upgrades but it set the wheels in motion for the next 20 years at a very busy warranty depot that I rose from grunt, to master tech, and then service manager. I don't pretend to know everything. I only know what I know, and am always learning. Take Plasma and LCD Tvs. I never fixed a single unit during my career as a professional tech, they came along after I left, but over the past few years I have fixed several of them.
+12voltvids
Wow you were really advanced to be able to make something as difficult as a scanning video camera at that age :-D.
You make me feel like a complete idiot, but as ive been telling my frends for years "Im just an idiot, i only know the basics and i can guess the rest" i dont mind at all LOL :-D.
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I got nothing from school, no electronics, they didnt care about the needs of odd people like me, i learnt by taking things apart and learning the basic blocks, and as time went on i built up some mental basics, and reading diagrams, no training or nightschool, just a mind that could not understand textbooks on electronics so i learnt another way.
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How ive got away with repairing everything over 30 years with success i just dont know ha ha :-D.
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Apart from repairing about all the c.b radios in the uk (seemed like it), ive repaired ham radios for hams (allways made me laugh), power supplys, tv/dvd/vcr's and all sorts of odd stuff.
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They allways expect me to know everything, even modern technology, but most of the time ive noticed its an improved version of something i allready know about, mad aint it lol.
I was the electronic repair section of a factory once, but after 5 years i just became so stressed out i became mentally ill, never mind.
Sorry about the long waffle :-(
The camera was the toughest project I tackled when I was 18. I did have a working schematic from a Hitachi vidicon camera to work from. So I basically copied that design for the layout. I still had to calculate the deflection yoke design myself. I had wanted to build a color TV, as Heathkit had one, but my parents were not about to fork out 2000 for this kit, with no guarantee that it would ever work, and it was a tube set, so the school was leery of having me work on something that generated that high of voltage, from a liability side. So the camera, which still ended up being about 300 in parts, the tube being the most expensive part.When I finished high school, with my first year college engineering under my belt I abandoned electronics, because my math grades were not good enough to get into a full engineering course. I blame my high school councillor for that. He said that trades math is what I needed, and I actually need calculus and advanced algebra. So no post secondary in electronics for me. Countless factory sponsored training courses got me the knowledge I required to work on the equipment I dealt with. I wrote the red seal challenge exam and passed with flying colors when I was 20.It was an interesting career, but looking back, I should have gone to the phone company way back then. I could be like some of my co-workers. Retired with full pension by age 53.
What's your overall opinion about the quality of the STR-DA4ES?
Other than this fault whoch is very common these units are actually pretty good.
Hey, i have a str-da3es and the right channels cut out but when i fastory reset the receiver the right channels start working but when you turn it up it turns off and wont work till you reset it again but everything still works with the digital inputs what do you think it is?
i have sony str-da5000es with the same proplem no sound what do you think the proplem is
what about no sound on the whole right side channels?
Hello I have a sony str-da50 es amplifier which does not light up any more signs of life, I cleaned it, redone all the welds I tested the power board all the voltages are present on the connector ( cnp910) except on the pin (stop) there is no voltage I change the IC901 integrated circuit (NJM2103D) that does not solve the problem, I would like to have your advice, thanks.
+12voltvids - Is your iron one of the Chinese clones of the Hakko 936?
I've just bought a new one from Circuit Specialists which I reckon is a Hakko clone, with a few frills added. Not had a chance to use it yet, but it looks OK. I assume that yours performs for you?
I did a review of it in another video. I'm on the second iron. The first one broke in a week. Store gave me a new iron. Tip didn't last long. Have a original hakko tip on it now.
Gets the job done. Was cheap. Yes Chinese clone.
Ah, my foresight to order a set of tips may well pay off then. Thanks
One more thing - If you have a computer in you work shop, you may want to check out the totally free software called Open Broadcast. You can set a camera on the meter alone and on the work while superimposing all video simultaneously in to one video file in real time.
+Tech Gorilla No computer in the shop. Computer is in the studio.Record to SD card then copy to HD and cut away, throwing away 80% of the material.
SO IT HAS AN AMPLIFIER BUILT IN..................WITH ALL THOSE INPUT/OUTPUT.........PLUS SPEAKER TERMINALS.....CAN T WAIT TO SEE INSIDE...
That 10 Ohm resistor looked a bit like an inductor because of it's background greenish colour. Is there a way to tell? Are inductors more blueish?
Inductors are generally light green in color. Fusable resistors are dark green.
outstanding work wish we could find people with this kind of knowledge in cincinnati ohio.they tell you to just throw this newer sony es in the trash.i disagree.they wont even change the leds or bulbs in the 1970 units.takes to much time.
+robert west I know all about it. That is why so many old tech like me are keeping busy working out of our garage. There are a few vintage audio shops around, one guy offered me a job working for him, but I really don't want to get back into this business. I work now in a different field, for a large corporation with pension and benefits, so I made the right choice to get out of the consumer repair field when I did and now it is just a hobby. I actually enjoy it more now as I am not under pressure. This amp I spent about 3 hours on. Had I been in the shop environment I would have been under pressure to get it done within 30-45 minutes, and the repair would have easily cost the customer 150. The shop would have charged that .10 resistor out at probably 15.00 and called it a special fusible resistor, or some special word to throw the customer off base. It was all about making as much profit in least amount of time.
thats great just makes it hard on collectors.when we cant get these nice items repaired.or they end up at goodwill or in a landfill.like your sony that wasnt a 99.00 dollar item new i would guess over 1000 dollars.that is there top of the line model line up.some even had the copper chassis.shame to have to throw them away thats what i am saying because the stuff today is throw away.take my pioneer sx-950 what would the cost be to build that today.or my rotel 990bx amp.just nice to see someone who can work on these things.it is becoming a lost art.
+robert west I have a nice old Sansui 9900 receiver in my storage lockup. It works, but needs some attention, switches and controls gummed up. Have had many offers, but declined them all. Those units are now selling on the used market for over 1K! I also have a McIntosh 1600 Tube FM receiver (no AM) that I also won't be parting with, as it's value is increasing every year. Many of the tubes in it are original McIntosh tubes, so no I don't use it regularly because I don't want to wear out the now very difficult to find parts.
yes my opinion nothing sounds like tubes.with the right setup.
We see quite a few cold/cracked solder joints in your videos. I live in Australia and I've never seen one, any idea's why? Warmer climate perhaps?
Who knows, I have been seing cracked solder for the past 35 years I have been in the repair business,
that is a beast of an AVR .....however i don't know why they never put a cooling fan on AV receivers?
One word. NOISENobody wants to hear the sound of the fan running.
I have a Str-da50es and I'm getting a "protection (fan)" error. Is this what you saw before fixing the solder joints?
No
As always nice video, thanks :-)
One question though:
Replacing that one resistor with 2 in series, is that not a bad idea ? i mean the ohms value i have no problem with, it is close enough, but if it is suposed to be a safety feature (open if overloadet), you have effectively made the fusing current double, same as replacing a fuse with one twice the size, does that not worry you ?
Greatings from Denmark.
+Morten Rolsing No the current limiting is the same. They are both 1/4 watt resistors. They are in series. Had I put them in parallel then you are correct, it would have doubled the current handling capability to 1/2 watt before going open. If I had put 2 -20 ohm in parallel to make a 10 ohm, then I would have had to go down to 1/8 watt to get the same max current.I did have some 10 ohm, in 1/2 watt and 1 watt size but that is why I chose to put 2 in series so I have the same power rating.
+12voltvids
I agree, if you use 2 x 20 ohm parallel (1/4w) you end up with the equivalent of 1 x 10ohm (1/2W)
resistor.
But if you use 2 x 4,7ohm (1/4W) in series, you get 9,4 ohm, let´s say 10 ohms (1/2w)
since the voltage drop is shred between the resistors. Therefore each resistor
only needs to dissipate half the energy.
1 x 10 ohm (1/4w) resistor with 160mA running through it, has a voltage drop of 1,6V over it.
1,6V =10ohm*0,16A
The power dissipation
is P=U*I 0,256W = 1,6V * 0,16A
The maximum
Amperage a 10ohm (1/4w) resistor is able to provide is therefore approximately 160mA
before burning
2 x 5 ohm (each 1/4w) in series resistors, with 160mA running through them, has a voltage drop
of 1,6V over them combined.
1,6V = 10ohm*0,16A
Thus 0,8v over each since they share the current and they share the total voltage drop
when they are in series.
The power dissipation
in each resistor: P=U*I 0,128W = 0,8V * 0,16A.
Therefore 2 x 5 ohms resistors (each 1/4w) in series are able to provide 320mA before
burning, or am I doing something wrong in my calculations.
When resistors are in series they share the
load.
@@mortenrolsing7137 , no 12voltvids did it correctly. Two parallel 4.7 ohm, 1/4 watt resistors makes only a 2.35 ohm resistor with double the power rating (1/2 watt). So he is using two 4.7 ohm resistors in series, which will add up to 9.4 ohms, and have the same 1/4 watt power rating (close enough to the original 10 ohm, 1/4 watt resistor he removed).
Hi Johnny
I still dont agree, you are right that 2x 4,7 ohm paralel resistors equals 1 x 2,35ohm 1/2 watt, because they share the current.
2x4,7 ohm (1/4w) resistors In series makes 9,4 ohm (1/2w), because the resistors in this case share the voltage drop, half over each, that’s why the power dissipation is also shared equal over the two resistors, that means that each of the two resistors only get half as hot as one ~10ohm (1/4w), and will only open up when double the power is dissipated as i the single 10ohm (1/4w) resistor.
@@mortenrolsing7137 , truth be told, I have almost no knowledge of electronics. I watch these videos trying to learn. I derived my previous response from here electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/172855/when-to-use-a-1-4-watt-resistor-vs-1-2-watt-resistor
another great video hey I know its a long shot but I thought with your years of knowledge you might be able to narrow down an issue I'm having with my sony receiver, I have a sony str-km7000 it has hdmi switching three inputs and one of them has been dead since I got it, I got it used but never bothered to try and fix it as I only ever had 2 hdmi devices but recently another commonly used hdmi in put has failed in the same way as the other port, i.e when connected to a pc it is detected by the pc and all devices show up but you don't get any audio or video and the receiver shows no sign of an input being plugged in, I was considering just trying to find a junked one and getting the hdmi board from that but I'm not so sure that would fix this as its still showing as a device to the pc so its not dead as such any advice would be great thanks Luke.
+MrLatte27 Its a shot in the dark.Either solder has cracked on one of the HDMI sockets, due to the weight of HDMI cables, or the chip that does the switching, which is probably a BGA device has suffered a broken connection between the chip and the board. BGA is such a shitty way to mount parts.
+12voltvids im going to agree with you on that the chip that does the switching has a broken joint or something as the hdmi connector has not been moved for months at all and the hdmi cables i use are thin and have little to no stress on the connection and it just randomly stopped working when i went to turn it on i might hit with my heat gun and see what i get.
Sony dav dz 270 saround sepekar & center spekar not working plese help me.
19:42 - there's your cold connection! This one needs solder!
Put the magnifying glass closer so I can see them!!
Q1609 (upside down) @ 19:27...is that cracked? You seemed to have paused on that for a few seconds. Love your wit and expertise on these repairs, motivated me to start investigating problems instead of trashing products. Gonna reflow an Onkyo DTS chip today!
No, not cracked.
Holy shit thats alot of plugs
Sir sony dav dz 310 center speaker does not working about plz