Very cool that you did another Sony STR-DA4ES repair video! Your previous video inspired me to repair my STR-DA4ES with a "popping" audio symptom that changed as the Receiver warmed up. I also found many cracked solder joints and re-soldered them, which fixed the unit. My repair video is on my TH-cam channel. Thanks Dave!
I am driving to grab one of these things this evening. The thing that I like about it is that it has an integrated phono preamp and it has a cassette and a mini disc in and each of them have record out. Because I have enough music that is still on cassette and minidisc, it is attractive to have those inputs. On my current receiver I have to use a phono preamp and that input takes up one of my selectable inputs. I think I will open this thing up before I even hook it up and Reflow all of the solder joints
The sine waves in the sinks are so the heat leaves each arm the most at different spots, so as not too create too much heat in one place. It is a method of dispersing the heat better than without them.
The "sine wave" in the heat sinks is what Sony referred to as the "S-Fin." The purpose was to ensure that each heat sink fin resonated at different frequencies during operation as opposed to all heat sink fins resonating at the same frequency. This was supposed to prevent sympathetic resonance that may result in distortion.
I there anything u can't fix ? Always when i'm looking for some hints how to fix repair things your videos popin out in results. You're the man, so much dedication and so much inspiration for me. Thank you
As long as the solder is not bridging pins, use all the solder you need. The extra mass is only a problem in aircraft/high G environments. Sitting on a shelf, solder away.
@@davidvalega I am not in the commercial products repair business. I currently work on military products. I do not have any spare parts for this item. Good luck
I worked military circuit boards "ordalts" on torpedoes and fire control systems, my instructors for soldering were NASA certified. I was going to come to Dave's defense, but you beat me to it. His experience has taught him well, I have no issues with his soldering and he explained his reasoning to his method well. In military soldering you need to have a good visual of the conductors underneath to aid the inspector for proper wetting action, a convex fillet of solder is all that is required. This ain't that!
Man, the intermittent repair jobs are the worst. I had a stereo preamp with intermittent sound issue on one channel. Spent days on checking drivers, pots, connectors etc only to trace it to a tiny solid smd capacitor on the pre-amp. Tested fine on the multimeter but would do the intermittent dance while in circuit. These faulty smd caps have sent a whole pile of electronics to the landfill.
Yes intermittent troubles make service engineers go insane. When I was working in the broadcast industry we had one camera that was intermittent. The poor engineer never did solve the problem. Every time he said ur was fixed, our on a remote shoot it would break. The red registration would go out and no way to correct. Engineer was so burned our he quit, moved back east, opened his own tv repair business. Did that for several years. Closed to shop and died a few years later at 67.
Yah That's True Those Techs Who Claim They Have All Those Degree's In This & That. You'r Are Right About That. Now My Uncle Bob From Kentucky Who Passed On Recently Done Great Soldering. & He Only When To The 8th Grade. & He,s The One Who Taught Me How To Do Soldering.
I have a Sony STR-DE675, which shares a lot of the same components and design elements as this receiver. The front left channel is perfect, but the front right channel is very soft and is not discreet. When I use the balance controls, it will lower the volume on the good channel (left) but no matter where the balance is set the right channel stays at the same soft volume and never goes off, even when it should be silent and balance is set to 100% left. Also, the relays click on and off if I move the unit slightly when on, but this does not turn off the speakers at all, they keep working no matter how much the relays click. I resoldered the relay coil pins along with all the others, but I did not resolder the ICs as shown in the video. Any idea what could be causing this?
My STR-DB780 has a similar construction, and had non-obvious dry joint issues causing it to go into protection mode randomly. Ended up reflowing a lot on the main board and is a great unit
Have you run into these intermittent sound/power issues on the Sony STR-DH550 model? I get a fully functional receiver for hours and then no sound/display. I come back later and powers on a works fine. Im guessing an over heating issue?
My sony str-db940 powers on and relay clicks but has no sound at all, ive reflowed the mainboard still no sound, it doesnt go in to protect mode, and if i crank the volume to maximum i can just about hear the fm radio, and when i press the test tone button all the tones work on all speakers but again i have to crank the volume to the max to faintly hear them, dont think any of the darlington setup are shorted, i did notice cracks around the voltage amplifiers but ive reflowed them now and checked several fusible resistors, the b+ voltage is present so is the b- im kinda stuck on where to look next, i think a good idea would be to add metal paperclips to these voltage amplifiers to dissipate some heat.
@12voltvids i have a da555es and im getting a protechtion ( FAN ) can you point me in the right dirction i redid driver ic solder on the 3 that it has i dont see any caps that are swollen im out of ideas please help thanks
Hi i have a hst-471 and after a couple of minutes of use there's weird noses that came out from the speakers and i don't think the problem is from the speaker but by the unit itself so if you have any idea plz help
Hi, great video. My Sony mhc-dp800av sound stopped😢. I'm no electrician savvy but I'm a little daring into that matters 😁. I took some photos from the inside of my stereo and i can see something interesting. How can i send you photos and Please give me an advice?
Ok, well surely, those heat sinks are large enough for the finals and do the job well - for them! Sony always seems to be on point in this regard, but a fan is needed in this design and similar to prevent the solder cracks that the heat sinks themselves now cause to the rest of the unit. A cheap but quality fan and some cents worth of components and this design goes from 9 to 10. What does everyone else think? Agreed?
im wiyh u ! also gonna put one n mine this weekend for sure. anything there would be better than nothing... like the one i pulled from an old dell tower i found on the curb many years ago ! I Love it when i can re-purpose items saved from the landfill to better/ protect my ancient components ! .Ahhhh...feels nice !
Quick question: Do you see this thermal expansion more or less on lead-free solder or on leaded? I was thinking (logically) whichever has the higher melting point would see less of this occurring, but I could be wrong.
It is more of a problem with lead free. The big problem is it is hard and brittle. The copper wire it is bonding is softer. Because the metals are different yhetevwull always be slight resistance at the bond. This resistance will produce heat in high current applications. Also heat from the component travels down the lead. This caused the copper to expand. Copper expands at about twice the rate as tin. Over time this expansion will increase the diameter of the lead free bond which will increase the gap when the wire cools which leads to more resistance and more heat. Eventually the bond breaks. High lead solder is soft and expands and contracts better with the copper. Lead free is shit. The only reason we are using it is because the EU defended it. This is the same block of countries that pumped out millions of diesel cars claiming they were cleaner than gas cars while using software to make them appear clean when being tested and then letting them belch all kinds of toxins into the air when they weren't being tested.
Putting more solder, provided that it has flowed properly to form a good joint between the component lead and the pad on the board, would help the joint to better resist cracking from thermal cycling (the board expands when warmed up and contracts when cooled down). That said, you can use too much solder, but usually the concern would be a risk of causing a short to neighboring joints, which is what do not want to have happen on a power amplifier circuit.
Thanks Dave, another reminder that "factory production " has it's weaknesses....skimpy rapid process workmanship....usually automated. Nice reminder to use quality lead based SOLDER for longer lasting connections. Keep the V-twin puttin' like here in HOTston Texas. Have you been to Sturgis ? JwgK
@@12voltvids If you get the urge to chalk it off your bucket list, then check the options and consider this as a future 'Voyage " ... your fellow Hog Slapper and electronics enthusiast . JwgK
@@jameskrivitsky9715 Well I am inadmissible in the USA now because I was given pfyzer then moderna so i am blacklisted even though according to the CDC and every other health agency they are equivelant but not to us border services so i can't come down even if I wanted to.
Dave, Thanks for showing this repair. I didn't know there was such a thing as a fusible resistor. Why not just use a regular fuse which is easy to spot and check?
I cant imagine doing this type of work; very much out of my wheelhouse but this video does raise a question. You talked about using alot of heat. What is the proper temp to set a soldering iron at to do this project?
@@12voltvids with lead free you can only use the best like Kester. I never had any problems from units repaired 20 years and I repaired a bunch of old Onkyos and they get hot af
In normal operation, the components will never get hot enough to where the melting point is a concern. Besides, you have real, albeit unlikely, problems if the joints are getting hot enough for that to be an issue. As Dave points out, regular solder has better ductility than lead free solder, which has advantages over how the joint can endure thermal cycling over an extended period of time.
I'm just a mere hobbyist. But I cannot understand people who are just hobbyists saying you're soldering wrong. People need to respect people that worked in the repair industry for 20+ years. I don't understand why nobody is able to see that they still need to learn a lot about something. Even the professionals never cease learning something new. I don't get their mindset. I don't get the mindset wanting to be the kind of everything. There's always someone better than you.
@@12voltvids what I Like About My Turntable It's Bluetooth. Which Means No Stereo Patch Cables To Mess Around With. That's Wat I Like About The Stereo Too. I Can Stream My CD's I Load Onto My Laptop Phone & Tablet.📱
@@12voltvids yah Those SONY TV's Are Just Like Zenith's They Have Such A Natural Color. I Went To Target In 2014 & It Too Has A Such A Natural Color Too.🎨🌈🔴🔵⚪️ Around The Fall Of 2015 Me & This Friend Whent Up to Lake Superior & Boy Oh Boy Dose That Thing Take Good Pictures. I Ask My ILS Worker Of Mine I Bet If I Took That Camera To Montana Or South Dakota I'd Get Some Good Pics.
according to google it is pronounced "sodder"with no L even though it's spelled that way, this is what it gives as the pronouciation " /ˈsädər/ " It's different in canada, but that's how it is in the US version of google. says (/ˈsoʊldər/,[1] /ˈsɒldər/[1] or in North America /ˈsɒdər/[2])
I am shooting new videos as repairs come in. Many (literally hundreds) have asked me to shorten some of the old ones. The long drawn out old versions are eventually going to be put in the subscriber only bin. A few people might like the long drawn out videos, but majority rules and when I get about 50 to 1 in favor of the new format it has encouraged me to continue. Not every old video will be refreshed, but they will continue as it opens up these long boring videos to a new market. I can't ignore the numbers. This is what people want to see. You will see fewer product reviews of things as these do not generate the views, and thus the revenue, so I will be doing less of those in the future. Unless it is something really cool, then I may do it.
![เป็นไปได้ไหม - WanMai [Performance Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Eh5hItD4Mr0/mqdefault.jpg)
Very cool that you did another Sony STR-DA4ES repair video! Your previous video inspired me to repair my STR-DA4ES with a "popping" audio symptom that changed as the Receiver warmed up. I also found many cracked solder joints and re-soldered them, which fixed the unit. My repair video is on my TH-cam channel. Thanks Dave!
Very common fault.
I own an STR-DA4ES. Great receiver that I still use. Traded up from a Technics SA-DA10 many years ago.
I am driving to grab one of these things this evening. The thing that I like about it is that it has an integrated phono preamp and it has a cassette and a mini disc in and each of them have record out. Because I have enough music that is still on cassette and minidisc, it is attractive to have those inputs. On my current receiver I have to use a phono preamp and that input takes up one of my selectable inputs. I think I will open this thing up before I even hook it up and Reflow all of the solder joints
Great video, Dave ! He does a great job of soldering! Not sodering!!!
Soddering sounds like something you could be criminally charged for commiting.
@@12voltvids lol 😆
Thank goodness you've gone back to the old intro and theme music. Just like how it was. Hated the new one.
The sine waves in the sinks are so the heat leaves each arm the most at different spots, so as not too create too much heat in one place. It is a method of dispersing the heat better than without them.
The "sine wave" in the heat sinks is what Sony referred to as the "S-Fin."
The purpose was to ensure that each heat sink fin resonated at different frequencies during operation as opposed to all heat sink fins resonating at the same frequency. This was supposed to prevent sympathetic resonance that may result in distortion.
@@Watcher3223 Thanks for that! Some research to learn is in order tomorrow about it.
I there anything u can't fix ? Always when i'm looking for some hints how to fix repair things your videos popin out in results. You're the man, so much dedication and so much inspiration for me. Thank you
There is lots but you don't see those videos.
As long as the solder is not bridging pins, use all the solder you need. The extra mass is only a problem in aircraft/high G environments. Sitting on a shelf, solder away.
This is also why heavy pins are always hand soldered after wave soldering the board.
@@mdavidhandler hey Dave , I would like to send you my Sony EV-C3 for repair how can I contact you?
@@davidvalega I am not in the commercial products repair business. I currently work on military products. I do not have any spare parts for this item. Good luck
@@mdavidhandler sorry, I thought you were the 12voltvid guy that makes the TH-cam videos
I worked military circuit boards "ordalts" on torpedoes and fire control systems, my instructors for soldering were NASA certified. I was going to come to Dave's defense, but you beat me to it. His experience has taught him well, I have no issues with his soldering and he explained his reasoning to his method well. In military soldering you need to have a good visual of the conductors underneath to aid the inspector for proper wetting action, a convex fillet of solder is all that is required. This ain't that!
Man, the intermittent repair jobs are the worst. I had a stereo preamp with intermittent sound issue on one channel. Spent days on checking drivers, pots, connectors etc only to trace it to a tiny solid smd capacitor on the pre-amp. Tested fine on the multimeter but would do the intermittent dance while in circuit. These faulty smd caps have sent a whole pile of electronics to the landfill.
Yes intermittent troubles make service engineers go insane. When I was working in the broadcast industry we had one camera that was intermittent. The poor engineer never did solve the problem. Every time he said ur was fixed, our on a remote shoot it would break. The red registration would go out and no way to correct. Engineer was so burned our he quit, moved back east, opened his own tv repair business. Did that for several years. Closed to shop and died a few years later at 67.
Why do you give a hoot what others say? You are totally correct on the amount of solder and HEAT.
Before I even get to 3 seconds in, my comment is simply, "Sony!" :)
Yah That's True Those Techs Who
Claim They Have All Those Degree's
In This & That. You'r Are Right About That.
Now My Uncle Bob From
Kentucky Who Passed On Recently
Done Great Soldering.
& He Only When To The 8th Grade.
& He,s The One Who Taught
Me How To Do Soldering.
Hey thanks alot man. Im working on an STR DA-555ES and this is exactly what was wrong. Good work!
My Sony FH-100W hifi had the same problem, lots of broken solder joints :) All fixed working 100% now.
Sony makes the fusible resistor in every system sometimes it has the problems. now days fusible reisistor didnt get 😊
I have a Sony STR-DE675, which shares a lot of the same components and design elements as this receiver. The front left channel is perfect, but the front right channel is very soft and is not discreet. When I use the balance controls, it will lower the volume on the good channel (left) but no matter where the balance is set the right channel stays at the same soft volume and never goes off, even when it should be silent and balance is set to 100% left. Also, the relays click on and off if I move the unit slightly when on, but this does not turn off the speakers at all, they keep working no matter how much the relays click. I resoldered the relay coil pins along with all the others, but I did not resolder the ICs as shown in the video. Any idea what could be causing this?
My STR-DB780 has a similar construction, and had non-obvious dry joint issues causing it to go into protection mode randomly. Ended up reflowing a lot on the main board and is a great unit
Lead free Solder. The main problem with electronics.
Awesome receiver amp , love the older sonys!
Have you run into these intermittent sound/power issues on the Sony STR-DH550 model? I get a fully functional receiver for hours and then no sound/display. I come back later and powers on a works fine. Im guessing an over heating issue?
The bigger the solder joint the better. Greetings from Philippines
is this a rosin flux wire and what size wire are you using?
My sony str-db940 powers on and relay clicks but has no sound at all, ive reflowed the mainboard still no sound, it doesnt go in to protect mode, and if i crank the volume to maximum i can just about hear the fm radio, and when i press the test tone button all the tones work on all speakers but again i have to crank the volume to the max to faintly hear them, dont think any of the darlington setup are shorted, i did notice cracks around the voltage amplifiers but ive reflowed them now and checked several fusible resistors, the b+ voltage is present so is the b- im kinda stuck on where to look next, i think a good idea would be to add metal paperclips to these voltage amplifiers to dissipate some heat.
@12voltvids i have a da555es and im getting a protechtion ( FAN ) can you point me in the right dirction i redid driver ic solder on the 3 that it has i dont see any caps that are swollen im out of ideas please help thanks
Hi i have a hst-471 and after a couple of minutes of use there's weird noses that came out from the speakers and i don't think the problem is from the speaker but by the unit itself so if you have any idea plz help
You tell em! You've probably forgotten more than most haters know.
Very likely.
The HDMI output on my DA3300ES does not work - blank screen. Analogue monitor out works, however. Is it potentially something that can be fixed?
Hi, great video. My Sony mhc-dp800av sound stopped😢. I'm no electrician savvy but I'm a little daring into that matters 😁.
I took some photos from the inside of my stereo and i can see something interesting. How can i send you photos and Please give me an advice?
Hi I have a Sony Str dh800 and it all works fine apart from the volume I have to have the volume on Max to even hear it. Any ideas please?
Ok, well surely, those heat sinks are large enough for the finals and do the job well - for them! Sony always seems to be on point in this regard, but a fan is needed in this design and similar to prevent the solder cracks that the heat sinks themselves now cause to the rest of the unit. A cheap but quality fan and some cents worth of components and this design goes from 9 to 10. What does everyone else think? Agreed?
im wiyh u ! also gonna put one n mine this weekend for sure. anything there would be better than nothing... like the one i pulled from an old dell tower i found on the curb many years ago ! I Love it when i can re-purpose items saved from the landfill to better/ protect my ancient components ! .Ahhhh...feels nice !
@@Rob.DB. It's been a while, but desktops are always an awesome find, regardless of the power of the components. Good luck!
What are the common problems of Denon avr 5805 I have the more expensive 1 with more HDMI inputs I get mine repaired next week
Thank you
Does indeed look a quality unit and not to bad to work on Thanks for the video
Great work. Sir I have a Technics SUV-7 I bought it not working can I ship it to you so you can let me know if it is fixable?
Great Video. I have the same receiver and the power switch does not work. Do you have any recommendations?
Quick question:
Do you see this thermal expansion more or less on lead-free solder or on leaded?
I was thinking (logically) whichever has the higher melting point would see less of this occurring, but I could be wrong.
It is more of a problem with lead free. The big problem is it is hard and brittle. The copper wire it is bonding is softer. Because the metals are different yhetevwull always be slight resistance at the bond. This resistance will produce heat in high current applications. Also heat from the component travels down the lead. This caused the copper to expand. Copper expands at about twice the rate as tin. Over time this expansion will increase the diameter of the lead free bond which will increase the gap when the wire cools which leads to more resistance and more heat. Eventually the bond breaks. High lead solder is soft and expands and contracts better with the copper. Lead free is shit. The only reason we are using it is because the EU defended it. This is the same block of countries that pumped out millions of diesel cars claiming they were cleaner than gas cars while using software to make them appear clean when being tested and then letting them belch all kinds of toxins into the air when they weren't being tested.
I can see you know what your talking about. Great job.
My theory of putting loads of solder on is that 1. It gives more support. 2. I reckon it gives better heatsinking. Weather that's true or not.
Putting more solder, provided that it has flowed properly to form a good joint between the component lead and the pad on the board, would help the joint to better resist cracking from thermal cycling (the board expands when warmed up and contracts when cooled down).
That said, you can use too much solder, but usually the concern would be a risk of causing a short to neighboring joints, which is what do not want to have happen on a power amplifier circuit.
Thanks Dave, another reminder that "factory production " has it's weaknesses....skimpy rapid process workmanship....usually automated. Nice reminder to use quality lead based SOLDER for longer lasting connections. Keep the V-twin puttin' like here in HOTston Texas. Have you been to Sturgis ? JwgK
No, I don't go that far on the bike. Usually stick within 100 miles of home and return every night. I don't chance getting caught in bad weather.
@@12voltvids If you get the urge to chalk it off your bucket list, then check the options and consider this as a future 'Voyage " ... your fellow Hog Slapper and electronics enthusiast . JwgK
@@jameskrivitsky9715
Well I am inadmissible in the USA now because I was given pfyzer then moderna so i am blacklisted even though according to the CDC and every other health agency they are equivelant but not to us border services so i can't come down even if I wanted to.
Dave,
Thanks for showing this repair. I didn't know there was such a thing as a fusible resistor. Why not just use a regular fuse which is easy to spot and check?
The resistance is necessary for proper operation of the circuit. The circuit also needs a fuse. The two dead birds thing. One stone.
Exactly.
@@MrChrisRP Thanks for the quick answer.
@@12voltvids Dave,
Thanks for the reassuring quick agreement of the above statement.
Often the currents required are too low for a reliable fuse operation. You can get 100mA fuses for example, but they can be fragile.
you are very hi professional person sir
Awesome video ! You know your stuff! I have this receiver if I ever have any problems I'm going to reach out to you.
I cant imagine doing this type of work; very much out of my wheelhouse but this video does raise a question. You talked about using alot of heat. What is the proper temp to set a soldering iron at to do this project?
I would guess somewhere between 350 and 400 celsius
Well I use 700 F as that is what my iron displays.
Great job as usual sir!
Love those ES receivers
It is not just amps that suffer the Sony solder issues, I have had the same problem with TV's as well.
Lead free solder is an issue but even leases solder has broken connections. Wave soldering was the problem.
Great you video, I like
Great Video PRO Thank You
Excellent grasshopper.
I only use lead free solder because it has a higher melting point than the rosin core
It's also more brittle. I work only with 60/40 rosin core.
@@12voltvids with lead free you can only use the best like Kester. I never had any problems from units repaired 20 years and I repaired a bunch of old Onkyos and they get hot af
@@Steve-mp7by I've used Kester LF. Leaded is still better. 63/37 is ok.
In normal operation, the components will never get hot enough to where the melting point is a concern. Besides, you have real, albeit unlikely, problems if the joints are getting hot enough for that to be an issue.
As Dave points out, regular solder has better ductility than lead free solder, which has advantages over how the joint can endure thermal cycling over an extended period of time.
@@12voltvids Nothing like the smell of lead in the morning ! 😉
A "cracking" good repair job I have to say
I'm just a mere hobbyist. But I cannot understand people who are just hobbyists saying you're soldering wrong. People need to respect people that worked in the repair industry for 20+ years. I don't understand why nobody is able to see that they still need to learn a lot about something. Even the professionals never cease learning something new. I don't get their mindset. I don't get the mindset wanting to be the kind of everything. There's always someone better than you.
I really don't care what people have to say about my soldering.
If you don't like how my soldering looks then, go solder on your own Electronics!👍🇺🇸
Dose It Have Bluetooth?
What do you think?
@@12voltvids what I Like About
My Turntable It's Bluetooth. Which
Means No Stereo Patch Cables
To Mess Around With. That's Wat
I Like About The Stereo Too.
I Can Stream My CD's I Load Onto
My Laptop Phone & Tablet.📱
@@12voltvids yah Those SONY TV's
Are Just Like Zenith's They Have
Such A Natural Color. I Went
To Target In 2014 & It Too Has A Such
A Natural Color Too.🎨🌈🔴🔵⚪️
Around The Fall Of 2015 Me & This
Friend Whent Up to Lake Superior
& Boy Oh Boy Dose That Thing Take
Good Pictures. I Ask My ILS Worker
Of Mine I Bet If I Took That Camera
To Montana Or South Dakota
I'd Get Some Good Pics.
@@12voltvids oh You Can Make
An Older Stereo Bluetooth. All You
Need To Do Is Hook Up A Bluetooth
Receiver To The Aux Input Of The
Stereo.
@@12voltvids I Trancefer Stuff To
CD All The Time. Even Old LP's. &
They Just Sound Great.
That was a great video
Great Fix
Late 1980's early 1990's RCA TV's, a pound of solder and an hour of time thanks to "safety" solder.
quite a few problems at least its now good.
👌👌👌👍👍👍
Nice job! Very interesting diagnostic.
according to google it is pronounced "sodder"with no L even though it's spelled that way, this is what it gives as the pronouciation " /ˈsädər/ " It's different in canada, but that's how it is in the US version of google. says (/ˈsoʊldər/,[1] /ˈsɒldər/[1] or in North America /ˈsɒdər/[2])
The Americans are wrong.
I think "sodder" was supposed to be pronounced "saulder" but people dropped the L accidently in Pronounciation.
I could be wrong.
Nice solder drum with a black line of death, lack of solder and too big pcb holes.
10 Ohm to 18K, madness :-D
Wow That a Tank...
I am not sure there is such a thing as too much Solder?? :-)
So When The Word Solder Is Pronounced
The L Is Silent.
I always make a solder ‘hersheys kiss’ and I’ve gotten crap for it before. Always keyboard elites but never friends and customers.
The keyboard warriors can shove their keyboards up their a55 and go rotate for awhile as far as i am concerned.
They Don't Make Receivers Like That Anymore.
Compared To What They Make Nowadays.
Nowadays you'd Be Lucky If One Of Those
New ones Would Last 2 Years.
Sodduh :D
Sorder 😁
I hope you soon upload new video again and not upload old video with you made mix your talking into it.
I am shooting new videos as repairs come in. Many (literally hundreds) have asked me to shorten some of the old ones. The long drawn out old versions are eventually going to be put in the subscriber only bin. A few people might like the long drawn out videos, but majority rules and when I get about 50 to 1 in favor of the new format it has encouraged me to continue. Not every old video will be refreshed, but they will continue as it opens up these long boring videos to a new market. I can't ignore the numbers. This is what people want to see. You will see fewer product reviews of things as these do not generate the views, and thus the revenue, so I will be doing less of those in the future. Unless it is something really cool, then I may do it.
I just bought a used Sony STR-DH810 and it looks like it works but NO SOUND
WTF should I do?
I have tried this resetting thing