For those that still think this is nothing new: True, the DC-Hub does NOTHING NEW. But is does something OLD in a very clever, neater, less time-consuming way. Many years ago milk was decanted from barrels brought to one's home by horse cart. Then they invented bottles dropped on the doorstep. It took 30 years for the idea to cross the Atlantic to the UK from the USA. I give you, the DC-Hub.
I’ve installed the Egon DC Hub and been testing it the past few weeks and I love it. It’s simplified my 12 volt system, dramatically reduced cable runs, saves money on expensive cabling, no expensive crimping tools required. Looks great. Great product guys 👍
I used to make camper trailers (Melbourne based business) and would have loved to have a product like this. Try doing this sort of job all the time and you will know how awesome this idea is! Clean and efficient. Brilliant
Andrew & Heiner - I believe in "KISS - Keep It Simple Stupid" and this goes to show how simple it really should be. Thanks for the explanation of the system.
It’s a great product in my opinion and seems extremely robust and simple, simple, simple. Simple equals reliable. The ease of fault finding with this product is beautiful.
BRILLIANT followup to the product introduction video! I am a big fan of Andrew's work, and a customer of his how to produce videos series. When I first saw the introduction video, I thought the product sounded great... but then I read all the comments on the video and questioned it...I had no doubt that anything Andrew would put his name to would be great quality and suitable for purpose, but as a novice I couldn't understand the difference between the Egon and the other products mentioned in the previous video's content, and where the value for price was. Now I do, and I can see the benefit of such a system compared to others. Well Done Andrew and Heiner! Thanks for the followup video :)
I believe anyone who does wiring as a profession or as a hobby will immediately understand the benefits of this hub, any other person will struggle to see the difference. ps: I really liked the hardcore testing on the previous video, gives you confidence on the system.
The physical switch aspect is important, particularly for installations that will be used by anyone other than the person with the mobile phone. Boats and campers in particular.
This is magic. The EGON makes installing all our electric so understandable. I do believe this is value for money as well. if you have spend time doing electrics to a overland vehicle, you would know that times goes faster and keeping a your act of where what is coming from and where it is going is not that easy...
The DC hub is a very inspired deign. I was an auto electrician 30 years ago. If we had this life would have been so much easier in cake and wiring management. Well done totally awesome.
I think you have explained it best in past videos where you explained the value of simplicity and redundancy while traveling to remote locations. Anyone with any design and/or engineering background sees what you are doing clearly and appreciates it.
I put so much time and effort into designing and installing my auxiliary electrical system to fit in the glovebox......this would have saved many many many hours/days
Thanks guys for an honest response and clarification - being a retired avionics technician/IT specialist working to a high standard I would be comfortable with wiring my own system without an Egon base but for simplicity, power capacity, neatness and future expansion the Egon makes perfect sense - the only caveat I would place here as that the Chinese will certainly copy this smart ‘German’ engineered product - John in SA
I see it like this... Traditional overlander wiring is point-to-point. For example, solar panel(s) connect to charge controller(s), charge controller(s) connect to battery(ies), batteries connect to the dc fuse box and inverter, etc. Distributed fuses and breakers are required. Many connections will need a crimp terminal, which requires selecting the right terminal, crimping it on the wire (some of us also like to solder the crimp), and heat shrinking insulating tubing around the exposed metal of the connector. The Egon (did you consider “Egad”?), in contrast, provides a “star” or “home run” wiring topology: every component connects to the Egon. The Egon is the home, or the center of the star. Each of the Egon’s screw terminals requires no crimped connector, thereby eliminating one point of failure on each wire. Screw-down connections on bare wire are arguably the most secure and reliable way to make connections, and they can easily be checked for tightness. Advantage: Egon!
I think this is a great product. I did my own wiring for my home built camper trailer and no matter how hard I tried it still looks messy and I am not happy with it. Hopefully I can one day install one of the Egon DC hubs to tidy everything up and simplify my setup. Great job and thank you for producing such an excellent product.
I am old school when it comes to switches and circuit control. I see smart houses, motor homes, trailers/caravans, etc that have canbus circuits where you have touch pads to turn stuff on and off, and this goes to a controller, then the controller sends power to the lights, etc. Its great, till the electronics breaks and it takes an IT genius to track down the problem.
I'm just simply going to repeat my original comment........ And I'll add that I like the product and I can appreciate it's application....... "Those of you who think this is really just a glorified fuse box are somewhat missing the point. However it will not eliminate voltage drop issues. For that you will need to understand conductor losses in typical automotive copper cable. And for that you'll need a simple formula. So for anyone interested, here it is: Voltage drop over a cable run can be calculated as: Conductor length in metres (including return path) × current draw in amperes × the arbitrary figure for copper conductors of 0.0164 ÷ cable x sectional area in mm2. (You will need to ascertain the cable conductors cross sectional area in mm2 in order for this formula to be effective. Not the cable diameter. There are various charts available for this) As an example 0 B+S is 50mm2 and 2B+S is about 35mm2 and so on. ( B+S and AWG are roughly equivalent) The aim is to have no more than about 3% but less is best"
Thank you for the elaboration. I did wonder when I started seeing the redarc systems popping up before this was released what the difference was. Thanks for clarification
Andrew and Heiner, this is an excellent video. I manage complex industrial projects and part of those projects always involves power distribution and controls. I didn't fully understand your system but now it is very clear. Complex systems like the Redarc units have a place. I happen to agree with your approach, as simplicity is almost always better especially where you are required to trouble shoot AND repair. Living in Canada and regularly getting into areas where I need to be more independent your system is very appealing. I might even buy one and re-wire.
This was a much more educational video on the product than the last one. I think though that where you would really grab someones attention is if you made an illustration showing a basic setup with your Egon DC hub compared to a standard wiring setup and all the additional wiring points,fuses, and all the shrink wrap and work you would need to use unless you had the Egon. It wasn’t until you were going over the differences between your unit and a Blue Sea box that I really understood the differences.
I'm glad you cleared that up ? Before the video no idea after the video still no idea not the videos fault I've never been comfortable with electronics. Just reconfirmed I have to get some one else to do it.
Good video, I have better understanding now. At the end of the day, for many, it's going to come down to cost. Right at the end, we are shown how it's used in combination with another system so that kind of took it down a peg because you shouldn't want or find any reason to. I believe it's a clean, quality product and has an advantage of being able to put more load through it, amongst other advantages of simplicity but for an amateur such as myself and considering the cost, I'll stay with bluesea. 👍
What many people do not understand is that when you need a ground - you just tap to the vehicle body. But that’s not always obvious. If you tap several grounds over different parts of the vehicle body -/ you get potential difference which creates internal currents.
Thank you for comparing it to a BlueSea fuse box. That was my primary comparison question. I think it will be a great follow up video to show two installations one with the EGON and one with the BlueSea
Difficult to explain if you have not done some sort of your own wiring or run into some problems while traveling. Redvision is to modern teck and not a big fan off all the controls/switches on one panel allocated in one place, will not be able to fix if something goes wrong much like a modern car for overlanding, EGON definitely my stile...much like a landcruiser for overlanding. From south africa! would have love to have a product like this!! have done my power setup 3times over, improving it bit by bit with the same frustration over and over asking my self why isnt there "THIS'' product available.....so thank you for coming up with this eventually!!
Great video. I have to say, I was one of those who was wondering what the difference was between those products (but didn’t comment). This is a VERY clear explanation and I would love to do this in my vehicle. Hopefully you can ship to NZ! I know this is out of left field on this video but any chance you could give us an idea of when your new Troopy build will be streaming on TH-cam? I don’t think I’ve ever looked forward to a build from anyone more than this.
Ha! I knew this was only going to be half of the story. Great follow up video, I'm very excited to see the switching setup. What I would havw done to be able to buy this product 10 years ago when I did this work professionally!
Well done guys. I fitted a YIS Marine membrane touch control panel in our camper build 4 years ago which has built in PPTC fuses for a simple install. I still had to have separate high current circuit relays and a negative busbar to handle the common grounds. Looking forward to seeing the addition of the switching to this product.
Great product, totally get it. I built my own system, then re-built it to make it neater. I will use one of these in my next build. Looking forward to the water system which I think you should include the boiler.
Thank you for the explanation, I think you can't beat this from a reliability point of view. Great job on creating something that will make life easier on these installs.
Thanks for idea of using a Blue Sea fuse block. It will tidy-up some of my current wiring. I'm one of the blokes who was vocal on the earlier video. I can see the new "hub" is a great idea, but I do question the cost. Yes, it is very nice....but not $800- worth of "nice". Sorry.....if it was $150- to $200- I'd be very interested.
We went out and found the best connectors money can buy. And that's why it costs as much as it does. It would be cheaper to send you $150 than sell it to you for $150.
@@4xoverland nothing to debate about that! .. usefullness, quality, healthy profit, all very important. What i like to know though.. do you consider offering a scaled-down version (as in same quality, less ports) in the future? I would like that very much on my more “weekend” shorter travels 4x4... twin compressor, fridge, dcdc charger, but no real need for as much ports as this one.... i do not know the effect on costs then, but maybe that fills a “gap” (i feel there is, but maybe i am wrong ;-) ) cheers Harold
Heiner ist einfach ein cooler Typ. Fachkompetente Erklärungen, nett und total bodenständig👌 wenn wir wieder Richtung Perth kommen würde ich dir gerne mal unseren Prado vorstellen und ggf. was neues installieren...... EGON..... 😅
At 12:00: "... a bit of a Hindernis sometimes" - he might mean the following: someone has to overcome obstacles, sometime ;-) @ Heiner: lg from Germany BTW: cool project, I like it (German engineering, of course :-)
@@derj8054 Das denk ich wohl auch! Stammt er nicht aus'm Ruhrpott? Sowieso ein cooler Menschenschlag! I think so too! Doesn't he come from the Ruhrpott? Anyway a cool breed of people!
I understood the design from the beginning. As an avionics technician, another possible use would be in the Experimental Aircraft society, just need to convert the fuse to circuit breaker. Cant wait till its for sale.
I am very keen to see how you get on, let's see a video of where you install it and don't have to put in a junction, or another set of fuses, touch heat shrink or soldering iron. This is soo simple right, so you will save on cable costs, even though you need more cable runs introducing more voltage drop. Let us know how you address the safety issue of no fuses at the power source ie the starter battery. How will you do your switching / relays / Anderson plugs, oh and Shunt without heat shrink, and a soldering iron? I am genuinely very interested to see how this saves you 7-8 hours in time and saves you money.
@@MrLoridin Obviously you fuse the positive at the battery terminal for both house battery and starter battery. No change there. I don't see why you would need more cable runs, I'm actually going to minimise cable runs with the DC Hub in my setup. And obviously no matter what setup you use you heat shrink the terminals to the shunt, I already have those cables. The only fuses I be using additional to the DC Hub are the two fuses for battery. No one says you don't fuse the positives at each battery, Your implying this is what Andrew and Heinz says.
@@PhilsCampingReviews It's more cable runs as you have to bring everything back to where ever you put the DC Hub, for example instead of having one cable run into the tub of a ute for example that breaks out to all your devices you now have to have several runs, one for every device in the tub. This adds a lot more cable, cost and weight. I suggest you go back to the first video and watch what ASPW says at 4:08... he implies exactly that, I am also concerned in this video what Heiner says at 23:10m "I call this the primary power distribution" so even he says the DC HUB is not the "one central place" for power distribution as ASPW claims. ASPW has made a lot of claims about no expertise being required, no need for crimping, heat shrink, soldering etc in an install, now that is patently false. I watch some of your video's mate, make one on this and be fair dinkum about how much time it saves you and what tools you actually need to use to do the FULL install. Also can you not be such a fanboi for that cheap imported, knock off Stockton rubbish.
Well, to me, the solution is clear. Just make another version with provisions for NO-NC relays and option to install jumpers, if no relay is installed or needed. The relay signals can be handled through smaller SSD relays, driven by an ESP-32 controller. Switches can be replaced by pushbuttons, so no latching to mess up the logic and the simplicity of the cirquit would allow many buttons on one wire. With ESP-32, you can wire both analogue and digital sensors to measure temreature, pressure, water level, probably even weight of the propane tank, sky's the limit. Wait, what?! Oh, so there will be switching after all :) Started typing way too early. I hope the implementation you come up with is flexible enogh. I would love to see Tasmota firmware, paving the way of smart home to overlanding :)
Great explanation and video guys. I am an electrician and can see how neat this makes all the interconnecting and fusing for a camping system. This basically is fusing and all of the interconnections built into the hub (positive and negative). Like you said, great for fault finding too. I'd use it for sure. Well done
you can talk long or short the EGON DC-Hub is the one to go for me that is it how simpler you wandet it 😁 yes the redarc is nice but i wil pick the EGON DC-Hub over the redarc any time good work guy's love it (you right you have to now what you doing with the redarc one )
Nice piece of equipment. How many times have dinosaurs turned up to help someone, must be good for something! Jokes aside, a possible down side here is the use of the spade connectors, sure I know they are rated however it s not the product, it is the general confidence in the use of the Red/blue and yellow crimps sold with the typical crush them flat crimpers. Andrew you may have already however you could suggest a high end crimp and pliers to match you spade terminals, also a wire gauge to use for each of you outputs and a simple video on connecting a couple of spades to your system. You have a nice product, however if the down stream wiring/connections are compromised it is all for nothing. This will help people achieve the high end look they are trying to achieve.
Coincidence 4WD247 just released a video sponsoring Redarc Redvision... great to see more products out there even though as you say they arent specifically competing against eachother
@@Wh1t3m34t i agree with what you say about the channel. Just wondering if they are going to push redvision and the vehicle manager system they have more now that there is a what id call a simpler, more analogue system out there such as the Egon DC Hub product. Will follow with interest :)
I don’t know how people compare these to redarc red vision. Personally I’d rather use the Egon Hub. Nothing on it can really fail. It is a high quality 12v junction/fuse box. Very simple. Low loads don’t need relays. Camp lights, fridges, travel ovens don’t require relays. As an electrician this really applies the KISS principle to 12v wiring.
I think it’s great. I am a visual learner so not sure what the hub comes with as far as instruction or diagrams. I’ll need that kind of visual guidance as I do my wiring. I have a feeling there will be several more videos on this before it is over with and this hub really takes flight. Nice work gentlemen. 👍🏻👍🏻
Much clearer video I feel understanding it is easy now it's a fuse box that controls distribution and fast reliable connections designed for automotive applications is the key thing and supply's from low to high draw items and charge inputs I'd say you are correct no sigular item replaces it currently
You know your stuff and your market. It is good that you have clarified, but some people will always have issues, even if it was 40 dollars at BCF. Having said that it seems a lot of money to me and that would rule me out as a customer. My background is in sourcing specialised products made overseas, so maybe that is just me. I see things at higher volume production volume and lower input costs.
Just watched Ronnie Dahls video on overloading roof rack, it seems like a real safety issue that you should considering backing. The combined weight of influence of you and Ronnie could make a real difference.
Must admit when you first released this I thought the pricing was crazy, but this further explanation has made me realise its full potential and value. Still think there could be some relays fitted or provision for them though.
Can't wait to see your redundant switching solution. My truck is already wired so the DC hub came too late for that, but I do need a remote switching solution that has an override feature. My credit card is out and ready.
This video has helped me I was going to spend a lot on a redivision unit and I don’t really need it for my Hilux and bike trailer how would I go about seeing price on the egon unit
This is true, however you also probably wouldn't have brought the redarc setup either, which is the kind of market they are trying to tap into. Not the person who is happy to tinker about in the shed for a few weekends.
@@tenfeetwanderers774 I have redvision that's the redarc one your talking about?They won't tap into the redarc market because you don't actually get much from the dc hub just a busbar and fuse block people that buy redarc want the best ,I may be poor but I'm not cheap I will b5ut whatever I need for my setup, but it needs to justified and for something I can make myself for less than $100 why would I go and pay 850 for it? I cannot replicate redvision therefore it's worth the purchase if it suits my needs , and if your auto electrician needs 8 hours to wire a battery, solar panel and fridge etc then you need a new auto electrician this will not save anyone money ,it may save time and if time is money will it save $850 worth of auto electrical work? I honestly don't think so.
@Real M they won't unless they are being robbed in the first place it would only take a couple of hours to run all the wires the standard way with relays and you will end up with a better system for parts and a couple hours labour and if the fault finding fuse light makes you moist there's 30 buck fuse boxes with lights that indicate faults. It's an overpriced unit that an auto electrician will spend an hour on just working it out because it's new
@@joels2517 totally agree, they are 2 different products one is a total power water , solar , charging management system the other is a fus box with inbuilt common rails to connect charging inputs
Very good instructional vid. I’m making progress in my understanding of 4x4 vehicle electrical systems. Hopefully, I’ll come up with a workable system for mine.
I like switches. They are either on or off. Put the switch where it can be seen, near the appliance (or whatever) and anybody usually knows where and how to turn something on or off. Unless there is a good reason, and convenience comes into play here, the more complicated something is the more it will cost to repair and the more likely something is to break. And until they can make components that can never break this will always be an issue. Modern cars, in ten years time, will have much less resale value because of the sheer quantity of failed electronics that would need to be made right before it is fully operational again. You can actually see this now on BMWs and MB. BMWs cost the same to buy as the same age Toyota and yet they were originally 5 times the price. Cost of operational ownership is the reason.
Obviously the Ergon system could be marketed with a companion "switchboard" product(s), with or without bluetooth and an associated app. Thereby completely managing the power distribution and high power switching. But with the wide range of builds where this number of loads will be most useful, the risk (if providing a turnkey "Switch block" ) is in not making "the right layout" to suit EVEYONE. We all know you can never satisfy everyone. (NB: edit. I started writing before the end - Switching Coming - exactly as "suggested" , secondary product. ) As it is, it appears to be well suited to professional builders/integrators (if they don't already have a "turnkey" PD product which they use) - not getting into the merits or otherwise of the use of terminal screw blocks) OR individually wanting a personalised system, where they can have switching performed wherever it suits them, rather than having it all in one location - as a Predetermined layout would encourage. - Paying an "Auto Elec" to create the Ergon system equivalent will most likely far exceed the price. Note: the Price we see is Retail, if there isn't a "Trade" - bulk buy deal, yes industry will seek other avenues. (Retail pay $150 - or more - dollars per hour of personalised / specialist project development, industry pays ?? (say) $35-50 /hr in wages - plus business costs.) Hey Heiner - just make a simple relay mounting board -for variable loads - so some of the naysayers may have the option is they choose.... (Add bluetooth control and then those who don't want physical switches can have a totally hidden, app based powered system - Ideal for solo travellers [the controller is always in their pocket[, maybe not as easy for a family with kids - switches for lights etc. in rational locations just work.) - that way all they have to do is place the low power switches wherever they want them - relay block "sorted". But again, one cannot please everyone. That is why there is a variety of products out there (Andrew - please, don't be so "emphatic" that THIS is "THE BEST", or "The ONLY" solution, we all have different needs) - lol... WAIT - UP (end): Is this really an Ad for Redarc?? - there you have a solution integrating both ends of the spectrum, with the strengths of both.... ha ha
I love the concept and it's execution. Looks like a great product, but the price is way too high for me. I can't justify paying more than 5 times the price of a couple of BlueSea boxes and a couple of busbars. But it's just me 😁
Running high amperage DC through a copper foil trace on a pcb isn't a long term solution (eventually it's going to let the magic smoke out.) And seeing as you can't switch anything, you'll still need to run relays for the switching, so you may as well let the relay do all the heavy lifting and remove a potential failure point out of the loop (the heavy current going through wafer thin copper traces on the pcb) I'm struggling to see a decent use case senario here.
@@kldpuch short traces, so probably not a massive voltage drop. Though would be funny to see with a FLIR camera under full load for a while. I think it would light up like a Christmas tree!
Yes probably. But then again, that 150A isn‘t going to be used in a real word scenario for a long time. If the Batteries are emtpy there are 50A from the Charger. But you‘re not going to run your 80A Compressor for half an hour. So i‘m not sure if that is really a problem. I‘m more afraid of the thin Fibreglass Panel of the PCB to break over time because of vibrations etc.
This is great for people who are paying labour for an auto sparky to run their wiring, or people who are building their first setup and aren't sure what to they're going to add from the industry standards
Thanks for the follow up, should have had Heiner explain the product in the first place. I see that it’s a bit more than a fuse box now. Will definitely consider it for my next build.
Having a product that can handle the large draw items such as air compressors and inverters is unique, add to that the ability to connect regulated and non-regulated solar panels is a game changer.
Hi Andrew, excellent follow up video......giving an accurate depiction of the product after the initial release vlog. If I were to use the product for a small motorhome (or possibly boat) install what would be even more helpful now is a bundled up kit with a dc-dc charger and other fuses, shunt etc required to assemble a kit from scratch. Further, this would give us an estimate of pricing and a diy install could be possible with a schematic provided.
Oh dear, I am still struggling to understand the advantages of this product. Before we go any further, I discount the Redvision unit for serious overlanding. You do not wish to include electronics where they aren't needed, for reliability reasons. This product belongs in motorhomes and not in overland vehicles. The Egon hub provides a much better starting point for power distribution. However I still don't understand the rationale for a central hub. Often one will need to run a long cable from the power supply and another long cable to the load. A zoned system will usually be more efficient where a single supply is run to each zone and local distribution is carried out from there on. A common supply fuse box is a good solution for this. For the few really big loads (such as the inverter and tyre inflation compressor) it's simpler to run the cables to the battery compartment where a fused supply can be provided. Why run these high current cables through a central hub? I don't get it. Finally, a lot of the complication in DC distribution systems comes from relays - yes they are still a major part of most DC systems. However most relay panels are a mess with individual cables running directly to the relay connectors and one ends up with a snake's wedding. Now if someone could supply relay panels with neat edge connectors like the Egon that'd be a hell of a good product. Does anyone know of such product anywhere? On the positive side this video has really made me think about the far from optimal auxiliary DC system on my own 4x4 which is now likely to benefit from a major upgrade.
Absolutely brilliant. I love my separate switches so that product is perfect. Love the way you think so I must be a dinosaur too 😀 Very informative video - Thank you. Just subscribed!
The Redarc unit is a brilliant piece of modern technology with a lot of bling. It provides a lot of thrill factor for the non techie guy getting his camper built by someone else and as long as it works, he will be the talk of the camp ground. If it fails he can simply pack up camp and drive home. It would also suit the technical guy who installs it himself and understands it. When it fails out n the middle of nowhere, he knows how to bypass it. The Egon unit provides a practical solution for simplicity and reliability. It's like an old VW beetle, it has so few moving parts that there is barely anything to fail. For the guy who likes to go to very remote areas, is not technical and pays someone else to do it for him, the Egon would be the best choice. Just my ZAR2c worth which is nothing really.
If you know what you're doing, the Redvision is a gross waste of money. If you don't know what you're doing, you have no other option therefore it's a great device. cheers
Been looking for something to make my new car touring build reliable, easy and compact on the electrical side. This looks the goods I like how everything is interconnected, will be getting one when there available.
I think potential confusion is created by the terminations and fuses being mounted on a PCB yet it is purely a mechanical input and fuse distribution board. Maybe the term HUB implies Software control whereas distribution board might be a better description. That being said I understand what is is and I think it is great and I will definitely be buying one for my boat renovation.
For those that still think this is nothing new: True, the DC-Hub does NOTHING NEW. But is does something OLD in a very clever, neater, less time-consuming way. Many years ago milk was decanted from barrels brought to one's home by horse cart. Then they invented bottles dropped on the doorstep. It took 30 years for the idea to cross the Atlantic to the UK from the USA. I give you, the DC-Hub.
I’ve installed the Egon DC Hub and been testing it the past few weeks and I love it.
It’s simplified my 12 volt system, dramatically reduced cable runs, saves money on expensive cabling, no expensive crimping tools required. Looks great.
Great product guys 👍
Impressed with how you handled the feedback and went about clarifying with this video. Many of the comments were hostile and ignorant.
The tall poppy syndrome in full bloom.
Well said. Totally agree
I used to make camper trailers (Melbourne based business) and would have loved to have a product like this. Try doing this sort of job all the time and you will know how awesome this idea is! Clean and efficient. Brilliant
Good point
Andrew & Heiner - I believe in "KISS - Keep It Simple Stupid" and this goes to show how simple it really should be. Thanks for the explanation of the system.
It’s a great product in my opinion and seems extremely robust and simple, simple, simple. Simple equals reliable. The ease of fault finding with this product is beautiful.
BRILLIANT followup to the product introduction video! I am a big fan of Andrew's work, and a customer of his how to produce videos series. When I first saw the introduction video, I thought the product sounded great... but then I read all the comments on the video and questioned it...I had no doubt that anything Andrew would put his name to would be great quality and suitable for purpose, but as a novice I couldn't understand the difference between the Egon and the other products mentioned in the previous video's content, and where the value for price was.
Now I do, and I can see the benefit of such a system compared to others.
Well Done Andrew and Heiner! Thanks for the followup video :)
I believe anyone who does wiring as a profession or as a hobby will immediately understand the benefits of this hub, any other person will struggle to see the difference. ps: I really liked the hardcore testing on the previous video, gives you confidence on the system.
The physical switch aspect is important, particularly for installations that will be used by anyone other than the person with the mobile phone. Boats and campers in particular.
Any solution for this yet ? Switches are really important
This is magic. The EGON makes installing all our electric so understandable. I do believe this is value for money as well. if you have spend time doing electrics to a overland vehicle, you would know that times goes faster and keeping a your act of where what is coming from and where it is going is not that easy...
The DC hub is a very inspired deign. I was an auto electrician 30 years ago. If we had this life would have been so much easier in cake and wiring management. Well done totally awesome.
This video sells it better. I don’t think I have space for something like this. But I like it.
I think you have explained it best in past videos where you explained the value of simplicity and redundancy while traveling to remote locations. Anyone with any design and/or engineering background sees what you are doing clearly and appreciates it.
I put so much time and effort into designing and installing my auxiliary electrical system to fit in the glovebox......this would have saved many many many hours/days
In the glovebox !!! Now there’s a clever idea. I might try that.
Thanks guys for an honest response and clarification - being a retired avionics technician/IT specialist working to a high standard I would be comfortable with wiring my own system without an Egon base but for simplicity, power capacity, neatness and future expansion the Egon makes perfect sense - the only caveat I would place here as that the Chinese will certainly copy this smart ‘German’ engineered product - John in SA
I see it like this...
Traditional overlander wiring is point-to-point. For example, solar panel(s) connect to charge controller(s), charge controller(s) connect to battery(ies), batteries connect to the dc fuse box and inverter, etc. Distributed fuses and breakers are required. Many connections will need a crimp terminal, which requires selecting the right terminal, crimping it on the wire (some of us also like to solder the crimp), and heat shrinking insulating tubing around the exposed metal of the connector.
The Egon (did you consider “Egad”?), in contrast, provides a “star” or “home run” wiring topology: every component connects to the Egon. The Egon is the home, or the center of the star. Each of the Egon’s screw terminals requires no crimped connector, thereby eliminating one point of failure on each wire. Screw-down connections on bare wire are arguably the most secure and reliable way to make connections, and they can easily be checked for tightness.
Advantage: Egon!
Outstanding explanation of the difference between the 2 units. I think now more people will understand the convenience and simplicity of your product.
I think this is a great product. I did my own wiring for my home built camper trailer and no matter how hard I tried it still looks messy and I am not happy with it. Hopefully I can one day install one of the Egon DC hubs to tidy everything up and simplify my setup. Great job and thank you for producing such an excellent product.
I am old school when it comes to switches and circuit control. I see smart houses, motor homes, trailers/caravans, etc that have canbus circuits where you have touch pads to turn stuff on and off, and this goes to a controller, then the controller sends power to the lights, etc. Its great, till the electronics breaks and it takes an IT genius to track down the problem.
I'm just simply going to repeat my original comment........
And I'll add that I like the product and I can appreciate it's application.......
"Those of you who think this is really just a glorified fuse box are somewhat missing the point.
However it will not eliminate voltage drop issues. For that you will need to understand conductor losses in typical automotive copper cable. And for that you'll need a simple formula. So for anyone interested, here it is:
Voltage drop over a cable run can be calculated as:
Conductor length in metres (including return path)
× current draw in amperes
× the arbitrary figure for copper conductors of 0.0164
÷ cable x sectional area in mm2. (You will need to ascertain the cable conductors cross sectional area in mm2 in order for this formula to be effective. Not the cable diameter. There are various charts available for this) As an example 0 B+S is 50mm2 and 2B+S is about 35mm2 and so on. ( B+S and AWG are roughly equivalent)
The aim is to have no more than about 3% but less is best"
Thank you for the elaboration. I did wonder when I started seeing the redarc systems popping up before this was released what the difference was. Thanks for clarification
Heiner explained the dc hub so well, and it looks like it will definitely last well and reliably 👍
Andrew and Heiner, this is an excellent video. I manage complex industrial projects and part of those projects always involves power distribution and controls. I didn't fully understand your system but now it is very clear. Complex systems like the Redarc units have a place. I happen to agree with your approach, as simplicity is almost always better especially where you are required to trouble shoot AND repair. Living in Canada and regularly getting into areas where I need to be more independent your system is very appealing. I might even buy one and re-wire.
This was a much more educational video on the product than the last one. I think though that where you would really grab someones attention is if you made an illustration showing a basic setup with your Egon DC hub compared to a standard wiring setup and all the additional wiring points,fuses, and all the shrink wrap and work you would need to use unless you had the Egon. It wasn’t until you were going over the differences between your unit and a Blue Sea box that I really understood the differences.
I'm glad you cleared that up ? Before the video no idea after the video still no idea not the videos fault I've never been comfortable with electronics. Just reconfirmed I have to get some one else to do it.
Well explained this time. I totally see the difference. Love your passion and all you do for the overland community!
Keep it up mate. Can’t wait to see the water system too.
Heiner is an excellent teacher 👍👍
Good video, I have better understanding now. At the end of the day, for many, it's going to come down to cost. Right at the end, we are shown how it's used in combination with another system so that kind of took it down a peg because you shouldn't want or find any reason to. I believe it's a clean, quality product and has an advantage of being able to put more load through it, amongst other advantages of simplicity but for an amateur such as myself and considering the cost, I'll stay with bluesea. 👍
What many people do not understand is that when you need a ground - you just tap to the vehicle body. But that’s not always obvious. If you tap several grounds over different parts of the vehicle body -/ you get potential difference which creates internal currents.
Thank you for comparing it to a BlueSea fuse box. That was my primary comparison question. I think it will be a great follow up video to show two installations one with the EGON and one with the BlueSea
Yes!
Difficult to explain if you have not done some sort of your own wiring or run into some problems while traveling. Redvision is to modern teck and not a big fan off all the controls/switches on one panel allocated in one place, will not be able to fix if something goes wrong much like a modern car for overlanding, EGON definitely my stile...much like a landcruiser for overlanding. From south africa! would have love to have a product like this!! have done my power setup 3times over, improving it bit by bit with the same frustration over and over asking my self why isnt there "THIS'' product available.....so thank you for coming up with this eventually!!
Simply 3 USPs: 2x Power IN, Main Power OUT, screw terminals. I still love the latter most.
Great video. I have to say, I was one of those who was wondering what the difference was between those products (but didn’t comment). This is a VERY clear explanation and I would love to do this in my vehicle. Hopefully you can ship to NZ!
I know this is out of left field on this video but any chance you could give us an idea of when your new Troopy build will be streaming on TH-cam? I don’t think I’ve ever looked forward to a build from anyone more than this.
Ha! I knew this was only going to be half of the story. Great follow up video, I'm very excited to see the switching setup. What I would havw done to be able to buy this product 10 years ago when I did this work professionally!
Well done guys. I fitted a YIS Marine membrane touch control panel in our camper build 4 years ago which has built in PPTC fuses for a simple install. I still had to have separate high current circuit relays and a negative busbar to handle the common grounds. Looking forward to seeing the addition of the switching to this product.
Now I understand, a big problem for me was at what point do you upgrade from a standard fuse box to this. Thanks for the clarification
Great product, totally get it. I built my own system, then re-built it to make it neater. I will use one of these in my next build. Looking forward to the water system which I think you should include the boiler.
I like it, simplicity is the key.
Thank you for the explanation, I think you can't beat this from a reliability point of view. Great job on creating something that will make life easier on these installs.
My camper is a Jimny. I am a proud dinosaur uncle Andrew. 🦖😁
Seems amazing and simple.
Can't wait for Phase II switching and that water hub! Nice work guys
Well it's a very nice clarification video. Good luck with your marketing and sales of this device going forward.
For someone who wants to put an overland vehicle together simplify is king.
Thanks for idea of using a Blue Sea fuse block. It will tidy-up some of my current wiring.
I'm one of the blokes who was vocal on the earlier video.
I can see the new "hub" is a great idea, but I do question the cost. Yes, it is very nice....but not $800- worth of "nice". Sorry.....if it was $150- to $200- I'd be very interested.
We went out and found the best connectors money can buy. And that's why it costs as much as it does. It would be cheaper to send you $150 than sell it to you for $150.
@@4xoverland nothing to debate about that! .. usefullness, quality, healthy profit, all very important. What i like to know though.. do you consider offering a scaled-down version (as in same quality, less ports) in the future? I would like that very much on my more “weekend” shorter travels 4x4... twin compressor, fridge, dcdc charger, but no real need for as much ports as this one.... i do not know the effect on costs then, but maybe that fills a “gap” (i feel there is, but maybe i am wrong ;-) ) cheers Harold
Heiner ist einfach ein cooler Typ. Fachkompetente Erklärungen, nett und total bodenständig👌 wenn wir wieder Richtung Perth kommen würde ich dir gerne mal unseren Prado vorstellen und ggf. was neues installieren...... EGON..... 😅
Great info. I am a fan of integrating both systems like Heimer did. And I'm excited for this switching system. I'll wait patiently
At 12:00: "... a bit of a Hindernis sometimes" - he might mean the following: someone has to overcome obstacles, sometime ;-)
@ Heiner: lg from Germany
BTW: cool project, I like it (German engineering, of course :-)
Heiner. Bester Mann!
@@derj8054 Das denk ich wohl auch! Stammt er nicht aus'm Ruhrpott? Sowieso ein cooler Menschenschlag!
I think so too! Doesn't he come from the Ruhrpott? Anyway a cool breed of people!
I understood the design from the beginning. As an avionics technician, another possible use would be in the Experimental Aircraft society, just need to convert the fuse to circuit breaker. Cant wait till its for sale.
Mine arrived in the post today. Very well made unit. I'm very happy with it. Can't wait to start putting it together.
I am very keen to see how you get on, let's see a video of where you install it and don't have to put in a junction, or another set of fuses, touch heat shrink or soldering iron. This is soo simple right, so you will save on cable costs, even though you need more cable runs introducing more voltage drop. Let us know how you address the safety issue of no fuses at the power source ie the starter battery. How will you do your switching / relays / Anderson plugs, oh and Shunt without heat shrink, and a soldering iron? I am genuinely very interested to see how this saves you 7-8 hours in time and saves you money.
@@MrLoridin Obviously you fuse the positive at the battery terminal for both house battery and starter battery. No change there. I don't see why you would need more cable runs, I'm actually going to minimise cable runs with the DC Hub in my setup. And obviously no matter what setup you use you heat shrink the terminals to the shunt, I already have those cables. The only fuses I be using additional to the DC Hub are the two fuses for battery. No one says you don't fuse the positives at each battery, Your implying this is what Andrew and Heinz says.
@@PhilsCampingReviews It's more cable runs as you have to bring everything back to where ever you put the DC Hub, for example instead of having one cable run into the tub of a ute for example that breaks out to all your devices you now have to have several runs, one for every device in the tub. This adds a lot more cable, cost and weight. I suggest you go back to the first video and watch what ASPW says at 4:08... he implies exactly that, I am also concerned in this video what Heiner says at 23:10m "I call this the primary power distribution" so even he says the DC HUB is not the "one central place" for power distribution as ASPW claims.
ASPW has made a lot of claims about no expertise being required, no need for crimping, heat shrink, soldering etc in an install, now that is patently false. I watch some of your video's mate, make one on this and be fair dinkum about how much time it saves you and what tools you actually need to use to do the FULL install. Also can you not be such a fanboi for that cheap imported, knock off Stockton rubbish.
Well, to me, the solution is clear. Just make another version with provisions for NO-NC relays and option to install jumpers, if no relay is installed or needed.
The relay signals can be handled through smaller SSD relays, driven by an ESP-32 controller.
Switches can be replaced by pushbuttons, so no latching to mess up the logic and the simplicity of the cirquit would allow many buttons on one wire.
With ESP-32, you can wire both analogue and digital sensors to measure temreature, pressure, water level, probably even weight of the propane tank, sky's the limit.
Wait, what?! Oh, so there will be switching after all :) Started typing way too early.
I hope the implementation you come up with is flexible enogh. I would love to see Tasmota firmware, paving the way of smart home to overlanding :)
Great explanation and video guys. I am an electrician and can see how neat this makes all the interconnecting and fusing for a camping system. This basically is fusing and all of the interconnections built into the hub (positive and negative). Like you said, great for fault finding too. I'd use it for sure. Well done
you can talk long or short the EGON DC-Hub is the one to go for me that is it how simpler you wandet it 😁
yes the redarc is nice but i wil pick the EGON DC-Hub over the redarc any time
good work guy's love it (you right you have to now what you doing with the redarc one )
Ah so! Yes I like it ! This is a better video than the first, it becomes much clearer.
In general this product launch has been very well received.
Nice piece of equipment. How many times have dinosaurs turned up to help someone, must be good for something! Jokes aside, a possible down side here is the use of the spade connectors, sure I know they are rated however it s not the product, it is the general confidence in the use of the Red/blue and yellow crimps sold with the typical crush them flat crimpers. Andrew you may have already however you could suggest a high end crimp and pliers to match you spade terminals, also a wire gauge to use for each of you outputs and a simple video on connecting a couple of spades to your system. You have a nice product, however if the down stream wiring/connections are compromised it is all for nothing. This will help people achieve the high end look they are trying to achieve.
Coincidence 4WD247 just released a video sponsoring Redarc Redvision... great to see more products out there even though as you say they arent specifically competing against eachother
They posted a couple of hours ago, but then re-uploaded cause of the dodgy audio - In saying that advertiser $ blatantly wins on that other channel
@@Wh1t3m34t i agree with what you say about the channel. Just wondering if they are going to push redvision and the vehicle manager system they have more now that there is a what id call a simpler, more analogue system out there such as the Egon DC Hub product. Will follow with interest :)
I don’t know how people compare these to redarc red vision.
Personally I’d rather use the Egon Hub. Nothing on it can really fail. It is a high quality 12v junction/fuse box. Very simple. Low loads don’t need relays. Camp lights, fridges, travel ovens don’t require relays.
As an electrician this really applies the KISS principle to 12v wiring.
I think it’s great. I am a visual learner so not sure what the hub comes with as far as instruction or diagrams. I’ll need that kind of visual guidance as I do my wiring. I have a feeling there will be several more videos on this before it is over with and this hub really takes flight. Nice work gentlemen. 👍🏻👍🏻
Much clearer video I feel understanding it is easy now it's a fuse box that controls distribution and fast reliable connections designed for automotive applications is the key thing and supply's from low to high draw items and charge inputs
I'd say you are correct no sigular item replaces it currently
Such a great timely video for me...I will have questions soon...
Well done guys, some great info on the unit, I think you've done a great job!
I'm sold
If liking practical reliable and simple stuff makes one a dinosaur count me in
You know your stuff and your market. It is good that you have clarified, but some people will always have issues, even if it was 40 dollars at BCF. Having said that it seems a lot of money to me and that would rule me out as a customer. My background is in sourcing specialised products made overseas, so maybe that is just me. I see things at higher volume production volume and lower input costs.
Just watched Ronnie Dahls video on overloading roof rack, it seems like a real safety issue that you should considering backing. The combined weight of influence of you and Ronnie could make a real difference.
Hey just saw that you already covered this topic 2 years ago
Must admit when you first released this I thought the pricing was crazy, but this further explanation has made me realise its full potential and value. Still think there could be some relays fitted or provision for them though.
I don’t know enough to know, that I don’t know...
But I think it’s beautiful, and I trust you.
Can't wait to see your redundant switching solution. My truck is already wired so the DC hub came too late for that, but I do need a remote switching solution that has an override feature. My credit card is out and ready.
Very nice idea and very easy to find faults. Well done you gents
This video has helped me I was going to spend a lot on a redivision unit and I don’t really need it for my Hilux and bike trailer how would I go about seeing price on the egon unit
I can understand the benefits but as a poor Aussie bloke it's cheaper to hang in the shed and wire it up then work 3 Saturdays to pay for it
This is true, however you also probably wouldn't have brought the redarc setup either, which is the kind of market they are trying to tap into. Not the person who is happy to tinker about in the shed for a few weekends.
As a poor American dude I agree.
@@tenfeetwanderers774 I have redvision that's the redarc one your talking about?They won't tap into the redarc market because you don't actually get much from the dc hub just a busbar and fuse block people that buy redarc want the best ,I may be poor but I'm not cheap I will b5ut whatever I need for my setup, but it needs to justified and for something I can make myself for less than $100 why would I go and pay 850 for it? I cannot replicate redvision therefore it's worth the purchase if it suits my needs , and if your auto electrician needs 8 hours to wire a battery, solar panel and fridge etc then you need a new auto electrician this will not save anyone money ,it may save time and if time is money will it save $850 worth of auto electrical work? I honestly don't think so.
@Real M they won't unless they are being robbed in the first place it would only take a couple of hours to run all the wires the standard way with relays and you will end up with a better system for parts and a couple hours labour and if the fault finding fuse light makes you moist there's 30 buck fuse boxes with lights that indicate faults. It's an overpriced unit that an auto electrician will spend an hour on just working it out because it's new
@@joels2517 totally agree, they are 2 different products one is a total power water , solar , charging management system the other is a fus box with inbuilt common rails to connect charging inputs
Absolutely amazing explanation I'd definitely consider using this if I was to re wire my truck
Very good instructional vid. I’m making progress in my understanding of 4x4 vehicle electrical systems. Hopefully, I’ll come up with a workable system for mine.
I would like to see a small system and a larger system built out with this. You may already have it on your channel so I will look for it...
I like switches. They are either on or off. Put the switch where it can be seen, near the appliance (or whatever) and anybody usually knows where and how to turn something on or off. Unless there is a good reason, and convenience comes into play here, the more complicated something is the more it will cost to repair and the more likely something is to break. And until they can make components that can never break this will always be an issue. Modern cars, in ten years time, will have much less resale value because of the sheer quantity of failed electronics that would need to be made right before it is fully operational again. You can actually see this now on BMWs and MB. BMWs cost the same to buy as the same age Toyota and yet they were originally 5 times the price. Cost of operational ownership is the reason.
thank you for great detail video
great basic easy setup on the market
great super ideal on the market
Are the portable solar generators a better option these days? Portable and no wiring inside 4x4.
I love this idea. Thank you for great video
Obviously the Ergon system could be marketed with a companion "switchboard" product(s), with or without bluetooth and an associated app. Thereby completely managing the power distribution and high power switching. But with the wide range of builds where this number of loads will be most useful, the risk (if providing a turnkey "Switch block" ) is in not making "the right layout" to suit EVEYONE. We all know you can never satisfy everyone.
(NB: edit. I started writing before the end - Switching Coming - exactly as "suggested" , secondary product. )
As it is, it appears to be well suited to professional builders/integrators (if they don't already have a "turnkey" PD product which they use) - not getting into the merits or otherwise of the use of terminal screw blocks) OR individually wanting a personalised system, where they can have switching performed wherever it suits them, rather than having it all in one location - as a Predetermined layout would encourage. - Paying an "Auto Elec" to create the Ergon system equivalent will most likely far exceed the price. Note: the Price we see is Retail, if there isn't a "Trade" - bulk buy deal, yes industry will seek other avenues. (Retail pay $150 - or more - dollars per hour of personalised / specialist project development, industry pays ?? (say) $35-50 /hr in wages - plus business costs.)
Hey Heiner - just make a simple relay mounting board -for variable loads - so some of the naysayers may have the option is they choose.... (Add bluetooth control and then those who don't want physical switches can have a totally hidden, app based powered system - Ideal for solo travellers [the controller is always in their pocket[, maybe not as easy for a family with kids - switches for lights etc. in rational locations just work.) - that way all they have to do is place the low power switches wherever they want them - relay block "sorted".
But again, one cannot please everyone. That is why there is a variety of products out there (Andrew - please, don't be so "emphatic" that THIS is "THE BEST", or "The ONLY" solution, we all have different needs) - lol...
WAIT - UP (end): Is this really an Ad for Redarc?? - there you have a solution integrating both ends of the spectrum, with the strengths of both.... ha ha
No you not a dinosaur, a switch is so straight forward as Heiner says, it's just better
Can’t wait until it’s ready for USA
Awesome explanation
EGON = KISS
I love the concept and it's execution.
Looks like a great product, but the price is way too high for me.
I can't justify paying more than 5 times the price of a couple of BlueSea boxes and a couple of busbars.
But it's just me 😁
Think they would sell 10x more units at half the price and make higher profits overall.
@@TDubya811 that‘s the point 👍
Running high amperage DC through a copper foil trace on a pcb isn't a long term solution (eventually it's going to let the magic smoke out.)
And seeing as you can't switch anything, you'll still need to run relays for the switching, so you may as well let the relay do all the heavy lifting and remove a potential failure point out of the loop (the heavy current going through wafer thin copper traces on the pcb)
I'm struggling to see a decent use case senario here.
This is probably a very massive pcb layer for handling these currents..
Otherwise there would be a huge voltage drop on the board
@@kldpuch short traces, so probably not a massive voltage drop. Though would be funny to see with a FLIR camera under full load for a while. I think it would light up like a Christmas tree!
Yes probably.
But then again,
that 150A isn‘t going to be used in a real word scenario for a long time. If the Batteries are emtpy there are 50A from the Charger. But you‘re not going to run your 80A Compressor for half an hour.
So i‘m not sure if that is really a problem.
I‘m more afraid of the thin Fibreglass Panel of the PCB to break over time because of vibrations etc.
@@kldpuch if I was a betting man, I would guess that an induction cooktop powered by a cheap inverter will be the first setup to make one go pop!
I agree. But as they state, you should connect a big Inverter directly to the Battery. Would also exceed the 80A limit of the board.
This is great for people who are paying labour for an auto sparky to run their wiring, or people who are building their first setup and aren't sure what to they're going to add from the industry standards
Well done to you both , this product looks good and sounds awesome ,, simple things that work and that’s what people want !!!!!! 👍👍😀
Very clear. Simple & robust: good
Thanks for the follow up, should have had Heiner explain the product in the first place. I see that it’s a bit more than a fuse box now. Will definitely consider it for my next build.
Sorry I did such a shitty job.
@@4xoverland don’t be too hard on yourself mate 😂 Absolutely frothing for your next Troopy build. Once a legend, always a legend.
Having a product that can handle the large draw items such as air compressors and inverters is unique, add to that the ability to connect regulated and non-regulated solar panels is a game changer.
An aside...what about recommending wire ferrules to clean up wire insertions??
Can't because that would require crimping
Hi Andrew, excellent follow up video......giving an accurate depiction of the product after the initial release vlog. If I were to use the product for a small motorhome (or possibly boat) install what would be even more helpful now is a bundled up kit with a dc-dc charger and other fuses, shunt etc required to assemble a kit from scratch. Further, this would give us an estimate of pricing and a diy install could be possible with a schematic provided.
Looking forward to it when I comes out
So am I able to run my arb twin compressor off my starter battery through the dc hub ?
Oh dear, I am still struggling to understand the advantages of this product.
Before we go any further, I discount the Redvision unit for serious overlanding. You do not wish to include electronics where they aren't needed, for reliability reasons. This product belongs in motorhomes and not in overland vehicles. The Egon hub provides a much better starting point for power distribution.
However I still don't understand the rationale for a central hub. Often one will need to run a long cable from the power supply and another long cable to the load. A zoned system will usually be more efficient where a single supply is run to each zone and local distribution is carried out from there on. A common supply fuse box is a good solution for this.
For the few really big loads (such as the inverter and tyre inflation compressor) it's simpler to run the cables to the battery compartment where a fused supply can be provided. Why run these high current cables through a central hub? I don't get it.
Finally, a lot of the complication in DC distribution systems comes from relays - yes they are still a major part of most DC systems. However most relay panels are a mess with individual cables running directly to the relay connectors and one ends up with a snake's wedding. Now if someone could supply relay panels with neat edge connectors like the Egon that'd be a hell of a good product. Does anyone know of such product anywhere?
On the positive side this video has really made me think about the far from optimal auxiliary DC system on my own 4x4 which is now likely to benefit from a major upgrade.
Absolutely brilliant. I love my separate switches so that product is perfect. Love the way you think so I must be a dinosaur too 😀
Very informative video - Thank you.
Just subscribed!
The Redarc unit is a brilliant piece of modern technology with a lot of bling. It provides a lot of thrill factor for the non techie guy getting his camper built by someone else and as long as it works, he will be the talk of the camp ground. If it fails he can simply pack up camp and drive home. It would also suit the technical guy who installs it himself and understands it. When it fails out n the middle of nowhere, he knows how to bypass it.
The Egon unit provides a practical solution for simplicity and reliability. It's like an old VW beetle, it has so few moving parts that there is barely anything to fail. For the guy who likes to go to very remote areas, is not technical and pays someone else to do it for him, the Egon would be the best choice. Just my ZAR2c worth which is nothing really.
If you know what you're doing, the Redvision is a gross waste of money. If you don't know what you're doing, you have no other option therefore it's a great device. cheers
Been looking for something to make my new car touring build reliable, easy and compact on the electrical side. This looks the goods I like how everything is interconnected, will be getting one when there available.
I think potential confusion is created by the terminations and fuses being mounted on a PCB yet it is purely a mechanical input and fuse distribution board. Maybe the term HUB implies Software control whereas distribution board might be a better description. That being said I understand what is is and I think it is great and I will definitely be buying one for my boat renovation.