That works better that the method I see some people using where they go buy a ton of sandpaper and get it set up. Start flattening the back and after about 2 minutes just saying that it looks good enough. Then try holding the iron at roughly 20 to 50 degrees, rocking it ever so slightly as you pull back. Go from the 220 grit to 400 for a few strokes, look at the stack of paper still left to go. Feel the edge and say eh, its good enough. Quickly, quickly set the iron through the mouth too far and make a stroke, digging in and tearing the wood. Try for another stroke and slip, cutting your arm and pushing some big splinters all down the back edge of your hand, get pissed and throw the planer towards the wall but accidently throw it through the window. Your wife comes running in and you argue, taking your project and smashing it just cause. Your father in law comes in all hot and ready after hearing you curse his daughter. You and pappy throw some dukes and bust up each other's face. Neighbors call the cops. Cops arrive and they get the same treatment as pappy. You sit there all puffy and scabbed over telling ol' buddy sharing the cell with you how the coppers didn't want to try going at it one on one, man to man, no, they had to have all 3 cause they were sissies, the whole damn lot of em. Ol' buddy kinda grins and says "Ahh, sure sure'. Do I need to explain the whuppin ol buddy was awarded for that smart remark? And here they come now for a rematch. The whole stinkin lot
I can't thank you enough for this sharpening system. I've always had issues with plane iron and chisel sharpening systems and results. I followed this to the t. Got a general 810 and all the grits. WOW, it worked just like you said. thank you very much. after practicing on a cheap plane I'm ready to restore my bedrock. thanks so much for this video and your restoration series. great information. new subscriber and looking forward to more videos.
Ha! I was thinking, man, if this guy ever adds a micro bevel to his process then he will truly have some of the sharpest edges around! I'm going to try your entire method to get all my planes and chisels in tip top shape. Thanks!
That is a nice foolproof method! I like that very much instead of "keeping the angle by hand and feels". Have you tried polishing it with a leather strop as well for the finishing touch?
When do you make a curve on each end of the blade, and what is it use for?? ..... where can we buy your restore planes?>? .... THANKS FOR SHARING ... OORAH!!
How do you get the iron dead square in the jig? I watched the video 3x, and it is quite possible i missed that, or at the very least, misunderstood how to if it was in there. I tried eyeballing, setting a tiny square against he iron and leading edge of the jig and so forth, but the grind always has about a 1 to 2o off squareness to it. Obviously, am doing something wrong. I like this system and would like to continue to use it - it is quicker than how I do it now. Thanks in advance.
Hi, many thanks for an inspiring video. Very generious of you to share your secrets with us, with that; a wish of a happy New year and a fortunate 2018. Thanks, -Hans.
I will try your way. The polishing from side to side make sense to me because you have a better control (feel ) on the blade touching the sand paper. Right now I am using a sharpening jig and sand paper :150, 400, 600 on a surface plate and finish on a strop for both angles and I get 0.001 shaving with no problem. I will order finer sand paper and see the difference in the shaving. Thank you for sharing.
I don't do much sight seeing either, more site seeing. Thanks for posting your films. I just found your channel today and will be utilizing some of your great insights asap, all the best
Never heard of anyone using sandpaper to sharpen plane irons til I started watching your videos. I use diamond plates, then a slate stone, and strop to sharpen my plane irons
My ego likes the idea of that hahaha. I used part of your routine to sharpen some irons today. Moving them laterally to change the scratch pattern. Thank you it worked great combined with my old method :)
I notice you do not use any liquids to keep the sandpaper clear of metal dust. Do you vacuum the metal dust? How long does your sandpaper last? Thanks again for another great video.
Another question i just picked up a Sargent 407 for 50 bucks on ebay everything intact but rusty how far would you go on a restoration , I bought it for my collection some say dont do to much but i like my planes as nice looking as i can gettem what would you do ??? Thanks
Question. Whenever I have tried to use sandpaper to lap plane irons or chisel backs, I end up with a convexity, a high spot in the middle of the back. Is it too much pressure, bad technique or something else?
Misanthrope1964, If you are going side to side you may be inadvertently pressing too much on one side going in one direction then when you reverse direction you may be applying too much pressure on the other side. I made this mistake years ago and had to spend numerous hours lapping the chisel backs flat just using a straight forward and back motion. It happens really bad on narrow chisels and plane blades because they are too easy to roll.
Rick Goebel Thanks. I’ve started using a DMT diamond plate to check progress when using course paper (60, 80, 100, 120, 150 and 220) on old, pitted blades. After 220, I move to water stones.
As sharp as that edge is it seems like it should have been floating through that cut better with less effort. I read in the comments that you have started adding a secondary bevel by raising the angle a couple of degrees on your final step. Did adding a secondary bevel give a noticeable difference in performance?
Well, I believe you said you don't watch TH-cam, but a lot of the woodworkers who would be considered "pros" like Rob Cosman and the like believe that little secondary bevel makes a huge difference. It sure seems like it when they do their sharpening and cutting. Rob Cosman's planes go through hard maple with the slightest push and has the thinnest, most perfect shavings I've seen outside those Japanese guys. Hell, he could probably push it through a long cut with one finger right after sharpening! I've never really paid enough attention to sharpening but I've been getting into hand tools more and more and am on a mission to settle on a system that is quick, easy and gets me results.
![NONT TANONT - ดอกไม้ที่รอฝน (spring) - Reimagined [Live Session]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nY2PsFZFEOg/mqdefault.jpg)
We miss you and your videos, please don't stop making videos, it's one of the most professional restoration job I've ever seen.
Great to see this video show up today! Thanks for sharing your thoughts and knowledge with us.
That works better that the method I see some people using where they go buy a ton of sandpaper and get it set up. Start flattening the back and after about 2 minutes just saying that it looks good enough. Then try holding the iron at roughly 20 to 50 degrees, rocking it ever so slightly as you pull back. Go from the 220 grit to 400 for a few strokes, look at the stack of paper still left to go. Feel the edge and say eh, its good enough. Quickly, quickly set the iron through the mouth too far and make a stroke, digging in and tearing the wood. Try for another stroke and slip, cutting your arm and pushing some big splinters all down the back edge of your hand, get pissed and throw the planer towards the wall but accidently throw it through the window. Your wife comes running in and you argue, taking your project and smashing it just cause. Your father in law comes in all hot and ready after hearing you curse his daughter. You and pappy throw some dukes and bust up each other's face. Neighbors call the cops. Cops arrive and they get the same treatment as pappy. You sit there all puffy and scabbed over telling ol' buddy sharing the cell with you how the coppers didn't want to try going at it one on one, man to man, no, they had to have all 3 cause they were sissies, the whole damn lot of em. Ol' buddy kinda grins and says "Ahh, sure sure'. Do I need to explain the whuppin ol buddy was awarded for that smart remark? And here they come now for a rematch. The whole stinkin lot
Sounds like my car repair jobs.
I can't thank you enough for this sharpening system. I've always had issues with plane iron and chisel sharpening systems and results. I followed this to the t. Got a general 810 and all the grits. WOW, it worked just like you said. thank you very much. after practicing on a cheap plane I'm ready to restore my bedrock. thanks so much for this video and your restoration series. great information. new subscriber and looking forward to more videos.
Ha! I was thinking, man, if this guy ever adds a micro bevel to his process then he will truly have some of the sharpest edges around! I'm going to try your entire method to get all my planes and chisels in tip top shape. Thanks!
tried it and can't believe that I'm able to get these results. thank you again for making these videos.
the sooner you do the happier you'll be.
good to have you back buddy
Thanks for sharing this.
Love your vids very informative.
I hope you are well. Haven't seen any new vids. God bless and be safe.
Simple is always the best
Miss you man.
That is a nice foolproof method! I like that very much instead of "keeping the angle by hand and feels". Have you tried polishing it with a leather strop as well for the finishing touch?
Awesome !
When do you make a curve on each end of the blade, and what is it use for?? ..... where can we buy your restore planes?>? .... THANKS FOR SHARING ... OORAH!!
Come back man!
Man I fell the same way. There’s no one on here that can match his work. I would love to me him. I also live in Virginia. Ty
How do you get the iron dead square in the jig? I watched the video 3x, and it is quite possible i missed that, or at the very least, misunderstood how to if it was in there. I tried eyeballing, setting a tiny square against he iron and leading edge of the jig and so forth, but the grind always has about a 1 to 2o off squareness to it. Obviously, am doing something wrong. I like this system and would like to continue to use it - it is quicker than how I do it now. Thanks in advance.
Good question.. I would use a square I guess like you did and just set the iron when starting planing with the rudder?
DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT HAPPENED TO THIS MAN. I TRIED TO CONTACT HIM WITH NO RESPONSE. PLEASE IF YOU KNOW, LET ME KNOW. THANKS
I believe that he passed away several years ago. A great loss to the plane collecting and restoration community.
No resistance hardly at all
You should be pushing the plane using your body, not pulling. Bad on your back !
Will do!! thanks Keith i value your opinion and now i feel better going forward !
Your test drives are the first steps to a new wig. Nice video Keith.
Hi, many thanks for an inspiring video. Very generious of you to share your secrets with us, with that; a wish of a happy New year and a fortunate 2018. Thanks, -Hans.
That was a great tutorial. Thx
Great Job!!!
I will try your way. The polishing from side to side make sense to me because you have a better control (feel ) on the blade touching the sand paper. Right now I am using a sharpening jig and sand paper :150, 400, 600 on a surface plate and finish on a strop for both angles and I get 0.001 shaving with no problem. I will order finer sand paper and see the difference in the shaving. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for posting this, all the best, from wintery Norway, Lucas
I don't do much sight seeing either, more site seeing. Thanks for posting your films. I just found your channel today and will be utilizing some of your great insights asap, all the best
Never heard of anyone using sandpaper to sharpen plane irons til I started watching your videos. I use diamond plates, then a slate stone, and strop to sharpen my plane irons
Clay Foreman, look up on the web Scary Sharp. There are a few variations but they pretty much all use sandpaper.
Plane Collector true. I really like that mirror finish you get
Keep up the good work :) Thank you :)
My ego likes the idea of that hahaha. I used part of your routine to sharpen some irons today. Moving them laterally to change the scratch pattern. Thank you it worked great combined with my old method :)
That theroy sounds good to me!!!
Nice dreads man.
Thanks bruddah.
Keith what does the left to right do for ya ?? I like it , just curious
Great video - thank you! Do you get any excessive wear on the corners with your back and forth technique?
Plane Collector That's great! I'm going to try it.
I notice you do not use any liquids to keep the sandpaper clear of metal dust. Do you vacuum the metal dust? How long does your sandpaper last? Thanks again for another great video.
Love the wigs... you know it brings you, your own style...lol
Keith, Is this your latest recommended method? As always thank you for your videos!
Plane Collector Understood. That will give the edge just a tiny micro bevel
Also do you believe in secondary bevel @ 30 degrees
the videos are great, I would like to recommend a "how-to make a wood wig" video.
Another question i just picked up a Sargent 407 for 50 bucks on ebay everything intact but rusty how far would you go on a restoration , I bought it for my collection some say dont do to much but i like my planes as nice looking as i can gettem what would you do ??? Thanks
Do you ever put a camber on your blades? Corners? How would you do that with your method?
What brand is the 150 grit sandpaper do you use? I've been using 3m aluminum oxide which doesn't last at all.
He said it's 3m sandpaper but I'm not sure which it is. It might be the sandblaster? I'd love to know for sure though!
If you pause it when he does the spray glue you can see that it is the 3M prograde 10x precision sandpaper.
You can get 20 sheets of 3M Prograde on Amazon for about $16, free shipping with Prime.
Question. Whenever I have tried to use sandpaper to lap plane irons or chisel backs, I end up with a convexity, a high spot in the middle of the back. Is it too much pressure, bad technique or something else?
Misanthrope1964, If you are going side to side you may be inadvertently pressing too much on one side going in one direction then when you reverse direction you may be applying too much pressure on the other side. I made this mistake years ago and had to spend numerous hours lapping the chisel backs flat just using a straight forward and back motion. It happens really bad on narrow chisels and plane blades because they are too easy to roll.
Rick Goebel Thanks. I’ve started using a DMT diamond plate to check progress when using course paper (60, 80, 100, 120, 150 and 220) on old, pitted blades. After 220, I move to water stones.
Aren't you afraid you will wear a flat spot on your blade sharpener wheel?
You have to replace those wheels anways at some point.
As sharp as that edge is it seems like it should have been floating through that cut better with less effort. I read in the comments that you have started adding a secondary bevel by raising the angle a couple of degrees on your final step. Did adding a secondary bevel give a noticeable difference in performance?
Well, I believe you said you don't watch TH-cam, but a lot of the woodworkers who would be considered "pros" like Rob Cosman and the like believe that little secondary bevel makes a huge difference. It sure seems like it when they do their sharpening and cutting. Rob Cosman's planes go through hard maple with the slightest push and has the thinnest, most perfect shavings I've seen outside those Japanese guys. Hell, he could probably push it through a long cut with one finger right after sharpening! I've never really paid enough attention to sharpening but I've been getting into hand tools more and more and am on a mission to settle on a system that is quick, easy and gets me results.
YOUR WIGS ARE GETTING LONGER THAN YOUR TORSO THIS OUT OF CONTROL YOU ARE BECOMING A YANKEE GOD!!!
Makes me wonder when we’ll get to see a handlebar mustache wig... 😉😉😉