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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ธ.ค. 2022
- Yanked the engine out to get a better view of the frame! Also removed anything that bolts onto the frame rails. We’re at 64 subscribers, up from 19 last week! Our thanks goes out to all of you!!
Music: Pixels
Musician: Jeff Kaale
V011
I have built many willys jeeps over the years.only for myself if you need information the only guy I would recommend is metalshaper his videos and knowledge are spot on.
Thanks for the reference! I’ve seen a few of his videos and he really knows his stuff on these. I subscribed and will definitely use for reference! And thanks for watching!
Metalshaper was on the cj2a forum. Thats another great source for parts. Tons of knowledge. And they keep a data base of these old girls so you can see whers she falls in production.
There was a guy on theee ugly jeep that made re enforcement plates for the frame horns. They have proven to be the weak spot...
Lots of work there. I would consider a Factory Service Manual for the CJ2A. They are much more detailed than Chilton and Haynes. As far as you are tearing it down, you will be glad to have that reference.
I would power wash the frame to start. Then you can evaluate if you got all the old dirt.
Por15 is a good product. However if the frame made it this many years with minimal paint, you might find wire wheel, red primer and regular black paint will outlast you. Eastwood and Rustoleum make good products as well. Fluid film is a good choice for cavities and areas you can’t paint. Some also use chainsaw bar oil to prevent further rust.
I would spray those transmission gears and shift linkage with PB Blaster every day even if you aren’t working on them. I have found that to work extremely well and has made cleanup of parts and assemblies much easier.
If you have not already joined,I would consider linking up with the CJ2A Page, earlycj5.com and read a bunch on CJ3B.info. Lots to learn from everyone’s experience in old JEEPS.
Awesome, thanks for the tips and the web pages! I’ll get them added to the favorites for sure. There’s a ton to learn about these old Willys Jeeps, even as simple as they seem to be at first glance. Much appreciated!
Factory Service Manuals are available at Walck's 4 wheel drive, Kaiser Willys, Willys America and The Jeepsterman. You can't go wrong.
I would definitely suggest that when you have the opportunity, take the frame to a shop where it can be sand ( media ) blasted. As far as using the POR coating on it, if you do decide to use it, after the frame has been blasted and repaired, don't hesitate to slap a nice thick coat of it on. It will certainly help to protect the metal !
Thanks for the comment! I’m definitely considering blasting due to the scaling the frame has in some areas.
I would use a two part epoxy primer and top coat im not a very big fan of POR-15
to get the dirt out of the boxed sections of the chassis just lift one end as high as you can. Use compressed air and gravity to get it done. A shop vac comes in handy as well. You can buy new seals and bearings for the T-case and transmission. Just clean and reuse the gears. New gaskets and seals and bearings will make everything useable again. Use a modern gear lube like 75W-90, not the straight weight 90W. The trans will shift much easier too. You can paint the chassis with Rust-O-Leum or POR-15. Using either one will make the frame last another 76 years easily. You got this! Nice work. I did all this to my 56 CJ5 right after I retired.
Thanks for the tips! I could suspend the frame with the loader up against a tree out back. Like that idea to flush the junk out of the boxed sections. Thank you!
Did a complete frame off on my early 46, still regret selling that one...
Lot of work and I’ll bet it was fun!
Looks like a fun project! I'm planning on getting an old jeep in the spring and do a restoration on it. Definitely gonna sub and follow along. 👍👍
Thanks for the sub and let me know if you have any suggestions! Learning as we go together here!!
Just put it all back to original and you'll have the best Jeep ever. Willys Overland engineers were pretty smart. My '48 starts easy at -20F with 6 volts.
I’m still debating on what to do with it honestly. I know it’s a noteworthy trail capable vehicle completely stock. But, I’m left with a frame and driveline (minus the engine). Literally everything else will require replacement. So updating some things for ease of maintenance and parts availability (affordability) are definitely options…
So with the t90 tranny there is a great rebuild guide that was online. Google rick stivers t90 rebuild and see what comes up.
Generally the detent springs are shot in the shift tower.
Also be sure to put the correct oil back in the tranny/xfer case. Yes the oil is connected in the two. Gl-1 is the factory spec. Just be sure what ever you use is brass/ bronze friendly.
Virtually everyone of the 8 or so ive rebuilt the oil had a gold hue to it. The wrong oil was used.
Also the major trouble spot when the tranny jumps out of 2nd gear is the intermediate shaft being worn and second gear runs slightly askew on the shaft.
Thanks for the tips, this is what the Google search came up with:
www.willystech.com/wt/T90RebuildGuide/T90rebuild.htm
Is this correct? Looks quite comprehensive! Thanks for the help!!
@@NedHills thats the one. Print it out and laminate it. Lol, youll be glad you did.
Thanks for the reference!
Get it dipped !
I’m not sure I wanna spend that kinda $$$! Although if I was building a full on restoration, that would for sure be an option.
Antenna tower next to your shop radio operator which call sign this is Kd7ihg