I would LOVE to have a video specifically showing how you set your peep height. Like when you say "set your peep at 50m" what process do you go through to do that. Thanks so much for the great content. I have shot 2 personal best 50m rounds since watching this video. Detaching from the need for "bone on bone" contact with my anchor has been great for me! So glad Thing A Week is back!
@@georgeryals I'm tall (6'5") with a pretty long draw (31.5") so even with a 38 ata bow I have always had to dip my head to get my nose to the string while anchoring along my jaw bone. By detaching from the "bone on bone" idea and just placing the peep in front of my eye I now don't need to move my head at all to get everything lined up. Much more comfortable to shoot. That's why I would like a video on setting peep height. I always used sight in without my peep using my "fixed" anchor. And then placed my peep at the right height to align with my sight. But now that I am using a "non fixed" anchor I would be free to play with my peep height, but at a loss on how to go about it.
I’ve done similar for years. But for 3D and hunting with max yardages around 50 yards I’ve always set my peep for most comfort at 40 to 50 yards. Mainly because I feel I have more margin of error at closer yards and seems many hosts like to keep us in the 38 to 50 range. Good tip
A video on choosing correct peep diameter would be really good. I have always chosen peep size to fit around the housing. So for me that would mean using a much smaller peep?
I hope I did not miss anything GRIV, but by letting the peep dictate your anchor position, would there be many instances where facial features combined with release grip create difficulties achieving the required anchor? I have always struggled to get a 90m peep height to correspond with my 50m height, especially when I am running low 50s poundage from a target bow when I cannot train much. And I have heard you speak of this tip a few times now and I think it is only now I understand and appreciate this approach to the point I will try it!
I have the Garmin zero sight and I don’t move the housing. My pin range is from 0 to 85 yards and I always center my peep on the housing. Do you think I need to switch to centering on each pin in my situation?
When you explained why you align the peep to the target instead of the housing, you mentioned a multiple pin sight. Does this mean it makes no difference for a target bow with a single pin scope? Should I have a peep that is large enough for my 31mm scope, or should I have the smallest possible one so I can only see the dot and the target and align these three? And just one more thing about the peep height. Let's say I'm setting my bow for indoors (20 yards) and nothing else. If the peep is too high, my aim tends to be loose. If it is too low, my aim is hard. Why does this happen? In this scenario, how do I find the most stable peep position? Should I feel the anchor on my face and set it at the most comfortable position (would this naturally result in the most stable configuration?), or should I only worry about the visual stability of my aim regardless of where my hand touches my face? The "loose versus hard aim" issue also occurs with "long versus short draw lengths", right? Are these topics related somehow? Thank you very much
From my 47 years of strictly Bowhunting experience, it makes no difference with a single pin scope. I replaced multiple pins, years ago with a single pin. Also I don't agree with the 1/8" diameter peep. Especially in a hunting situation, first take into consideration that the human eye pupil will dilate open to an average of 6mm in total darkness (depending on your age) so with that info. we come up with .040 x 6 = .240 diameter, just slightly less than a 1/4" size peep sight. So, in my opinion, putting anything less than a 1/4" peep right in front of your aiming eye, in a low light hunting situation is counter-productive. Blocking too much light with a small peep, might also cause your non-dominant eye to take over, in low light, if you shoot with both eyes open. and that will create bad misses left or right. With a 1/4" size peep, I would then try to match the scope housing, to fit just inside the peep, with minimal space around the edges, for the most accuracy. You can accomplish this by sliding your sight housing bar, in or out, until the scope matches the peep. If your just shooting targets then the "smallest peep theory" applies. Hope this helps.
As a former student of George for in person lessons, I can tell you this this is a game changer.
Always genius, Coach George:)
Dropping knowledge thanks Coach!!!
Gold! Thanks George!
You have made a blind man see - always struggled with the solid anchor and moving scope. Played with what you taught here today and - bham 🤯
TY GRIV! This is something I’ve been struggling with and the best way I’ve heard yet to confront this! Going to begin practicing this tomorrow!
Great video
George, thank you for making this video . I’ve been struggling with this, this will be very helpful.
I would LOVE to have a video specifically showing how you set your peep height. Like when you say "set your peep at 50m" what process do you go through to do that.
Thanks so much for the great content. I have shot 2 personal best 50m rounds since watching this video. Detaching from the need for "bone on bone" contact with my anchor has been great for me! So glad Thing A Week is back!
I’ll work on that.
Congrats on your hard work coming true. I’m glad to see the tips are working.
@@georgeryals I'm tall (6'5") with a pretty long draw (31.5") so even with a 38 ata bow I have always had to dip my head to get my nose to the string while anchoring along my jaw bone. By detaching from the "bone on bone" idea and just placing the peep in front of my eye I now don't need to move my head at all to get everything lined up. Much more comfortable to shoot.
That's why I would like a video on setting peep height. I always used sight in without my peep using my "fixed" anchor. And then placed my peep at the right height to align with my sight. But now that I am using a "non fixed" anchor I would be free to play with my peep height, but at a loss on how to go about it.
I’ve done similar for years. But for 3D and hunting with max yardages around 50 yards I’ve always set my peep for most comfort at 40 to 50 yards. Mainly because I feel I have more margin of error at closer yards and seems many hosts like to keep us in the 38 to 50 range.
Good tip
Great knowledge, thank you sir 🎉
A video on choosing correct peep diameter would be really good. I have always chosen peep size to fit around the housing. So for me that would mean using a much smaller peep?
It works
I hope I did not miss anything GRIV, but by letting the peep dictate your anchor position, would there be many instances where facial features combined with release grip create difficulties achieving the required anchor?
I have always struggled to get a 90m peep height to correspond with my 50m height, especially when I am running low 50s poundage from a target bow when I cannot train much. And I have heard you speak of this tip a few times now and I think it is only now I understand and appreciate this approach to the point I will try it!
Thanks
I have the Garmin zero sight and I don’t move the housing. My pin range is from 0 to 85 yards and I always center my peep on the housing. Do you think I need to switch to centering on each pin in my situation?
When you explained why you align the peep to the target instead of the housing, you mentioned a multiple pin sight. Does this mean it makes no difference for a target bow with a single pin scope? Should I have a peep that is large enough for my 31mm scope, or should I have the smallest possible one so I can only see the dot and the target and align these three?
And just one more thing about the peep height. Let's say I'm setting my bow for indoors (20 yards) and nothing else. If the peep is too high, my aim tends to be loose. If it is too low, my aim is hard. Why does this happen? In this scenario, how do I find the most stable peep position? Should I feel the anchor on my face and set it at the most comfortable position (would this naturally result in the most stable configuration?), or should I only worry about the visual stability of my aim regardless of where my hand touches my face?
The "loose versus hard aim" issue also occurs with "long versus short draw lengths", right? Are these topics related somehow?
Thank you very much
From my 47 years of strictly Bowhunting experience, it makes no difference with a single pin scope. I replaced multiple pins, years ago with a single pin. Also I don't agree with the 1/8" diameter peep. Especially in a hunting situation, first take into consideration that the human eye pupil will dilate open to an average of 6mm in total darkness (depending on your age) so with that info. we come up with .040 x 6 = .240 diameter, just slightly less than a 1/4" size peep sight. So, in my opinion, putting anything less than a 1/4" peep right in front of your aiming eye, in a low light hunting situation is counter-productive. Blocking too much light with a small peep, might also cause your non-dominant eye to take over, in low light, if you shoot with both eyes open. and that will create bad misses left or right. With a 1/4" size peep, I would then try to match the scope housing, to fit just inside the peep, with minimal space around the edges, for the most accuracy. You can accomplish this by sliding your sight housing bar, in or out, until the scope matches the peep. If your just shooting targets then the "smallest peep theory" applies. Hope this helps.
So then, how would you set your pins? Random placement? Not raising the bow now, your changing the rear!
Does it mean the 3 points (eye, peep and sights) are aligned, it doesn’t matter where the hand or head is?
Basically yes that is correct. Like open sights on a rifle - eye - rear sight - front sight
🤯
All respect …z you are wrong on this . 100%