2008 F-150 2WD Here I replace the front brake pads and rotor. Note: They recommend replacing the spindle nut. Tools: -13 mm socket -18 mm socket -36 mm socket -needle nose pliers
I just wanna say thanks a hell of a lot brother! This was the only video dealing exactly with my truck! Most of the other videos were 4x4 and didn't even mention there was a difference! I ended up breaking my brother's breaker bar on it, and his impact wrench didn't work either. But thanks to your video I got my confidence back, and got the job done! Now to go buy my brother a new breaker bar, but I think I will buy him a better one! lol
Bro just wanted to say thank you. This video saved me over $500 and allowed me to learn a lot more about truck. It also taught me not to go cheap on a breaker bar since I snapped mine throwing on the second spindle nut. P.s. if your rotor is rusted on use some of the black can wd40 all over then start going back and forth with a rubber mallet. Hammer works too but the mallet saves your ears and let's you do it at 11:30p without waking the neighbors
P.s.s. This job took me from roughly 10 to about 12:09 but that's with talking to some neighbors and having a few beers. Easily a 1 1/2 hour job if everything goes smooth but give yourself minimum 2 hours time for this job. I'm also newish to working on my own shit so yall with better tools and more experience might do it faster. I didn't have a c clamp for my breaks so I just had to force them bitches in with some good channel locks.
This is the best video out here on 2004-2008 f150 rotor replacement. Its perfect directions and easy to follow. Even the Pro videos dont cover this info, great job, thanks for saving me a boat/truck load of cash.
Great video. I watched it several times and then replaced the front rotors and brake pads on my '05 F-150. Everything went just as shown and demonstrated in the video. Took me about 1.5 hours per side including jacking and positioning jack stands, removing tire, removing caliper and break pads, cleaning all the components, removing the spindle nut and rotor, more cleaning, and then reassembling in the reverse order with new pads. First time I have ever replaced front rotors so I was probably a lot slower than someone who has done this before. Thanks for the video, BroHandy!
In your opinion should you put any type of grease on the spindle before putting the rotor on. I also noticed that the rotor doesn’t come with like a cap like they used to back in the old days and that cap would hold grease in it I guess they don’t do that anymore
Nice video, 295 ft lbs of torque is a 100 lb force 3 ft out, or 150 lbs force, 2 ft out. No special torque wrench is needed. 295lbs divided by your weight in lbs x 12" = inches out on you breaker bar with all of your weight pressing down on the bar.
Thanks for the comment BUT that's getting a little too technical for me! Been driving it for over a year now and haven't had any problems with the way I did it.
BroHandy I just changed my front rotors and pads and did it the same way you did. I don't have a torque wrench so I did exactly what I had to do to get it off, to put it back on. My freaking caliber got crushed somehow and I had a hole in one of the cylinders so brake fluid was leaking out. I didn't realize how expensive 2 rotors, 1 caliber, brake pads, brake fluid and a partridge in a pear tree would be. Man I'm glad I'm getting paid this week.
For those asking about bearings, they are sealed type & included with the rotor. You cant replace them separately with genuine or OEM replacement rotors.
The bearings on these rotors are replaceable. I just got through pressing them out and pressing new ones into the still perfectly good rotors. It took me 10 minutes per rotor. Used Timken SET930 bearings that are made in the USA. Purchased on RockAuto for $35.79 each. I used a 12-ton press that I purchased at Harbor Freight a few years back. The press paid for itself the first time I used it. Also, you don't need to remove the caliper separately; just remove the bracket and caliper together (saves time).
Centric makes a hub assembly that is separate from the rotor. So now you use floating rotors like the 4wd application. This gives you options for slotted & drilled rotors.
Awesome! Thanks! My notes: even with 24" breaker bar, that spindle nut wouldnt budge. I put a jack under the end of the handle on breaker bar - that did it. Stood on the 2 foot Bar to tighten.
Nice video, thanks! Funny, every time I watch this, an ad pops up for a Craftsman 1/2" drive 12 point 36mm socket. Guaranteed to blow apart if you even THINK about 300 ft. lbs...
Thank you for putting this video up. Only one ive found about the 04-08 2wd f150s. Gonna tackle this job this weekend. I read it took 295 and not 200 on the tq.
bro handy, thanks for the video. I did my 1st brake job last Saturday with help from this video and some wisdom from above...I could not get those "clips" out without breaking them though, so I had to replace them but otherwise I 'got her dun.'
before taking the caliper off use your screwdriver as a pry in between the pad and rotor and push the pistons back in saves time and makes it much easier.
thanks for the video going to do mine on my 2007 ford f150 2wd 89,000 miles this weekend. I just want to know how hard it was to remove the old rotor? am just asking because on my back brakes i had to use bolts and the old brake pads to act as a clamp to pop the old rotor off, got to love rusted hubs
Yah man, ole "BroHandy" took off the brake rotor nut with a 18" breaker bar + a 4 foot cheater pipe. Then putting back together, clicked 150 ft/lbs, then put his tinny hinny on the same breaker bar - no pipe. Yah, ain't gonna, ride with BioHandy no where - no how. Your right brother a Haynes manual "priceless". God Speed,,, Semper Fi
That spindle nut you should torque at 295 ft pound. BTW next try CENTRIC rotor and hub assy are 2 parts. I did mine and it's perfect fit. If you are interest in that centric convertion kit I can give u the part number.
so quick question: did you have to replace the full assembly (rotor + bearing) or did you just buy the rotors only? just wondering if the rotors are pressed into the rotor or of they are located on the spindle...
I did a brake job but instead of replacing the rotors I resurface them. So I put everything back and all went well but my abs light comes on? Just wondering what I did wrong?
INSTALLATION 1. Position the brake disc (rotor) on the spindle. 2. Install a new spindle nut. Tighten to 400 Nm (295 lb-ft). NOTE: Tighten the spindle nut to the specified torque. Rotate the disc counterclockwise 5 rotations and then recheck the torque. 3. Install the spindle nut retainer and a new cotter pin. 4. Position the brake caliper and anchor plate assembly and install 2 new bolts. Tighten to 200 Nm (148 lb-ft). 5. Install the wheel and tire. For additional information, According to FORD service manual
simon templer I just started putting these kind of rotors on my truck last night, I’ve been wondering about that and needed to grease the bearings before I put the whole thing on?.... that’s my question
OK, I just did this job, now the pedal is soft and the ABS light is always on. Nothing around the calipers was wet, and I used good quality parts. It's a very low mileage '05. What happened?
Austin D no. If anything you want to put anti-sieze on the axle to make sure the rotor comes off easily next time. The wheel bearing is part of the rotor and is sealed with grease inside.
As someone said below your about a 100 pounds shy of factory specs they call for 296 lbs a little less might work but you might eventually have to much play and wear out the bearings.
It's recommended on a couple auto part stores websites when you search for the rotors. I don't quite understand it myself if the threads aren't bad on the old one to not just reuse it.
Fred Louis You want to replace the spindle nut because they are pre-threaded with something akin to loctite, and at such a high torque value they are one-shot use. not an expensive part and something you definitely don't want to reuse
I don't work on Fords, but I did the brakes on a relatives truck. According to my resources (shop key) the torque spec on the bolt is torque-to-yield. 125 lbs/ft + an additional 90 degrees + an additional 30 degrees. This is why I assume it is not reusable, due to the way the threads stretch, when using said method. The nut I removed was not locking, nor had nylon insert either. Maybe it changes during some years. This one was a 2006.
![ตีสิบเดย์ [FULL] | เปิดใจ "อาจารย์ เบียร์ ฅนตื่นธรรม" นักสนทนาธรรมสายดุดัน!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vqaBI_mnoDk/mqdefault.jpg)
I just wanna say thanks a hell of a lot brother! This was the only video dealing exactly with my truck! Most of the other videos were 4x4 and didn't even mention there was a difference! I ended up breaking my brother's breaker bar on it, and his impact wrench didn't work either. But thanks to your video I got my confidence back, and got the job done! Now to go buy my brother a new breaker bar, but I think I will buy him a better one! lol
Bro just wanted to say thank you. This video saved me over $500 and allowed me to learn a lot more about truck. It also taught me not to go cheap on a breaker bar since I snapped mine throwing on the second spindle nut. P.s. if your rotor is rusted on use some of the black can wd40 all over then start going back and forth with a rubber mallet. Hammer works too but the mallet saves your ears and let's you do it at 11:30p without waking the neighbors
P.s.s. This job took me from roughly 10 to about 12:09 but that's with talking to some neighbors and having a few beers. Easily a 1 1/2 hour job if everything goes smooth but give yourself minimum 2 hours time for this job. I'm also newish to working on my own shit so yall with better tools and more experience might do it faster. I didn't have a c clamp for my breaks so I just had to force them bitches in with some good channel locks.
This is the best video out here on 2004-2008 f150 rotor replacement. Its perfect directions and easy to follow. Even the Pro videos dont cover this info, great job, thanks for saving me a boat/truck load of cash.
Great video. I watched it several times and then replaced the front rotors and brake pads on my '05 F-150. Everything went just as shown and demonstrated in the video. Took me about 1.5 hours per side including jacking and positioning jack stands, removing tire, removing caliper and break pads, cleaning all the components, removing the spindle nut and rotor, more cleaning, and then reassembling in the reverse order with new pads. First time I have ever replaced front rotors so I was probably a lot slower than someone who has done this before. Thanks for the video, BroHandy!
J Ujjain juju j I
Uh Ujjain
After tightening the spindle nut to 295 lb , rotate the rotor counter clockwise 5 times, then retorque the spindle nut again, very important
Longshot on the comment reply but why is it so important?
Why is it important? I’d like to know too.
@@kathyd1050this ensures that the bearing seats evenly after the hub rotates a few times following the initial torque
In your opinion should you put any type of grease on the spindle before putting the rotor on. I also noticed that the rotor doesn’t come with like a cap like they used to back in the old days and that cap would hold grease in it I guess they don’t do that anymore
Awesome DIY, brothaman! Straight to the point and not like the other videos I came across, where the guys seemed to love to hear themselves talk.
Nice video, 295 ft lbs of torque is a 100 lb force 3 ft out, or 150 lbs force, 2 ft out. No special torque wrench is needed. 295lbs divided by your weight in lbs x 12" = inches out on you breaker bar with all of your weight pressing down on the bar.
Thanks for the comment BUT that's getting a little too technical for me! Been driving it for over a year now and haven't had any problems with the way I did it.
BroHandy I just changed my front rotors and pads and did it the same way you did. I don't have a torque wrench so I did exactly what I had to do to get it off, to put it back on. My freaking caliber got crushed somehow and I had a hole in one of the cylinders so brake fluid was leaking out. I didn't realize how expensive 2 rotors, 1 caliber, brake pads, brake fluid and a partridge in a pear tree would be. Man I'm glad I'm getting paid this week.
kinda hard calculating your weight since your foot is on the ground? unless you stand on it without your hand holding on to something for balance.
but nice calculation none the less.
LOL thats exactly the way I do it.
I was thinking, hmmm.. that guy sounds familiar. Then I realized it's because I watch all your videos on Sailbros! Thanks for the help
For those asking about bearings, they are sealed type & included with the rotor. You cant replace them separately with genuine or OEM replacement rotors.
+Tim A Thank you.... I' was wondering about that.....
The bearings on these rotors are replaceable. I just got through pressing them out and pressing new ones into the still perfectly good rotors. It took me 10 minutes per rotor. Used Timken SET930 bearings that are made in the USA. Purchased on RockAuto for $35.79 each. I used a 12-ton press that I purchased at Harbor Freight a few years back. The press paid for itself the first time I used it. Also, you don't need to remove the caliper separately; just remove the bracket and caliper together (saves time).
Thank you. I was wondering where to replace those.
@@ohpunj some rotor brands have them held in with a snap ring not all of them though
I know it's been awhile since you made this, but it came in clutch for me this morning.
Thank you!
For being 11 years ago
This is a Great quality video.
And Very to the point.
Great vid 👌🏼
Centric makes a hub assembly that is separate from the rotor. So now you use floating rotors like the 4wd application. This gives you options for slotted & drilled rotors.
I just replaced the rotors and pads on my 2007 F150 yesterday following your videos. Everything seems to have worked fine. Thanks!
Simple, good camera angles, & not too much blah ....good job!😎
Awesome! Thanks! My notes: even with 24" breaker bar, that spindle nut wouldnt budge. I put a jack under the end of the handle on breaker bar - that did it. Stood on the 2 foot Bar to tighten.
Awesome DIY, brothaman. Straight forward without all the nonsense.
Nice video, thanks! Funny, every time I watch this, an ad pops up for a Craftsman 1/2" drive 12 point 36mm socket. Guaranteed to blow apart if you even THINK about 300 ft. lbs...
Thank you for putting this video up. Only one ive found about the 04-08 2wd f150s. Gonna tackle this job this weekend. I read it took 295 and not 200 on the tq.
Great DIY, brothaman. Straight forward without all the nervous chatter.
THANK YOU,SO MUCH FOR MAKING THIS VIDEO, I'M NO MECHAINIC,BUT I'M FOLLOWING YOUR DIRECTION
bro handy, thanks for the video. I did my 1st brake job last Saturday with help from this video and some wisdom from above...I could not get those "clips" out without breaking them though, so I had to replace them but otherwise I 'got her dun.'
te day the cotter pins should never be reused anyway.
Thank you for the video. I changed both of my front rotors and brake pads by this video.
before taking the caliper off use your screwdriver as a pry in between the pad and rotor and push the pistons back in saves time and makes it much easier.
Hi Bro, EXCELLENT VIDEO !
what year of F150 is this ( 2wd or 4wd) and which product?
Thanks a lot
thanks for this. I watched another one and he jumped from taking the tire off to putting the new components on.
Just what I was looking for. Thanks! Great camera angles and good lighting.
Thanks for taking the time to video the replacement. Great camera set up and equally good resolution.
Great Video…Nice camera work, very clear…Appreciate you
Excelente video me ayudó mucho a mi servicio que brinde a una Ford de este modelo. Gracias desde Nicaragua
Agree, good video! Thanks for posting.
Wish I’d watched this before changing out a rotor yesterday. Would have made it a lot easier.
Thank you so much for this video!
God Bless You!
Thank you!. my local garage wants to charge me $600 for your 20 minutes of work.
20 minutes of video = 3-4 hours of work. Takes 15min to wipe off and put your tools up.
Thanks for making this video! You made it so simple!
Thanks for the video! Good angle and guidance!
Nice video bro very professional
I remember doing the same exact thing on my truck and i broke a socket trying to remove the bracket bolts 😂
did your rotor come assembled? or did you have to back the bearings
Thanks a ton for the video, I'm going to use it to install my new 360 Performance Rotors!
Did the new rotors come with the wheel bearings pre installed?
This helped a lot man, thanks
thanks for the video going to do mine on my 2007 ford f150 2wd 89,000 miles this weekend. I just want to know how hard it was to remove the old rotor? am just asking because on my back brakes i had to use bolts and the old brake pads to act as a clamp to pop the old rotor off, got to love rusted hubs
Adam3261 im having trouble just finding the parts ..what store are you using for parts ? i have the same 2007 ford f150 2WD XL 4.6L (for the front )
+nathanp15 having trouble finding parts and information on mine as well. 2wd 07 f150 mine is a 5.4L triton though 8 cylinder
did the new rotor assembly come with new bearings?
its 295 ft lbs, straight from manual
Yah man, ole "BroHandy" took off the brake rotor nut with a 18" breaker bar + a 4 foot cheater pipe. Then putting back together, clicked 150 ft/lbs, then put his tinny hinny on the same breaker bar - no pipe. Yah, ain't gonna, ride with BioHandy no where - no how. Your right brother a Haynes manual "priceless".
God Speed,,,
Semper Fi
@@sonsofliberty1062 bearing will fail prematurely if not torque right.
Cool Thanks for sharing your video!!! I'm going to tackle mine tomorrow!!1 Rusty
Great video. I just have one question. Why didn't you replace the Cotter pins? They maybe cost about a quarter.
I agree sir for a mechanic/inspector in aviation we never reuse old cotter pins. It's against our regulation to do so. We always replace them
thanks man.
gonna tackle this on my 150 this weekend.
and great effin camera btw. major clarity holy s
Excellent! Thanks.
this is a great video! im only curious why you took off the rotor that way.
That spindle nut you should torque at 295 ft pound. BTW next try CENTRIC rotor and hub assy are 2 parts. I did mine and it's perfect fit. If you are interest in that centric convertion kit I can give u the part number.
Loved my conversion kit.
Let me go get my 6 foot breaker bar with a 36 mm socket! HAHAH. Thanks for the video.
This was a Big Big help. Thanks for posting
This is for 2 wheel drive. 4 wheel drive the rotor is separate from the hub assembly
Thank you, you saved my day..
Love the camera work! Great job.
so quick question: did you have to replace the full assembly (rotor + bearing) or did you just buy the rotors only? just wondering if the rotors are pressed into the rotor or of they are located on the spindle...
Was your vibrating in the steering wheel going down the road
I did a brake job but instead of replacing the rotors I resurface them. So I put everything back and all went well but my abs light comes on? Just wondering what I did wrong?
INSTALLATION
1. Position the brake disc (rotor) on the spindle.
2. Install a new spindle nut.
Tighten to 400 Nm (295 lb-ft).
NOTE: Tighten the spindle nut to the specified torque. Rotate the disc
counterclockwise 5 rotations and then recheck the torque.
3. Install the spindle nut retainer and a new cotter pin.
4. Position the brake caliper and anchor plate assembly and install 2 new bolts.
Tighten to 200 Nm (148 lb-ft).
5. Install the wheel and tire. For additional information,
According to FORD service manual
believe it or not my 97 f250 has the 7 lug stud rotor so. i got new front brake kits for both left and right. will be doing that soon.
Well done ✅
you used a 36 mm socket, but will it work on the 2013 FX4? What year is your truck?
Gotta love the dual pistons
Are you not supposed to add grease around the spindle ?
Bro. good shit with your video! many props!!!! thumbs up!
Where you get that part I been looking for one and the stores don’t sell it
Thanks Bro; excellent video....
Does the bearing on rotor need to be greased or no
Did u put bearings in the back and front?
Awesome video bro!
good job bro it's a lot easier then doing rotors on a Honda lol.
How did u keep your rotor from spinning??
When you torque the hub nut was the rotor able to spin freely while still in air?
very helpful video thanks man
Will the rotors of a 4x4 fit a 2wd??? V8 4.6
never reuse the cotter pin. other than that good video.
So you reuse the cheapest part that's not suppose to be reused.
Hey great video...are these rotors the ones that have the bearing built into it sealed unit?
simon templer I just started putting these kind of rotors on my truck last night, I’ve been wondering about that and needed to grease the bearings before I put the whole thing on?.... that’s my question
OK, I just did this job, now the pedal is soft and the ABS light is always on. Nothing around the calipers was wet, and I used good quality parts. It's a very low mileage '05. What happened?
TriodeLuvr unhook your battery
you need to bleed the air out of the line for that spongey pedal. I am sure by now that problem has been remedied!
You were supposed to push your brakes all the way in and repeat the process until they are firm, it took me a couple pumps to get mine back to normal
Was it the blinker fluid?
man i hope mine is easy as this ant not complicated like the other videos ive seen where theres so much to take out
This is the kind I have for my truck, but are you suppose to put grease on the wheel bearings before you put the whole thing on?
Austin D no. If anything you want to put anti-sieze on the axle to make sure the rotor comes off easily next time. The wheel bearing is part of the rotor and is sealed with grease inside.
As someone said below your about a 100 pounds shy of factory specs they call for 296 lbs a little less might work but you might eventually have to much play and wear out the bearings.
The hub nuts WON'T come off...even after using a whole can of WD40 & brake cleaner.
Any suggestions?
shock it loose with a mallot then pry it off. beat on it on the brake surface around the hub.
@@OffroadTrucker740
Thank you...I'll try that
thanks! helped.
How did you keep the rotor from spinning when taking the 36mm axle nut off?
Steve Harpin the “axle” the 36mm nut is on doesn’t spin so turning the nut won’t turn the rotor. This is a RWD model.
Torque is 295 ft lbs on spindle, not 200ft lbs.
So set the Torque at what on it ? 200 ? I got a 06 f150 2wd,and replacing the wheel bearings.
Get a 3/4" drive torque wrench. Cheapest I can find is Tekton for $78 and it goes to 300 ft-lbs.
Tell me you’re an electrician without telling me you’re an electrician
What year is this truck
Is this a 4wd or 2wd ?
Do I have to do the wheel bearing to get the rotor off?
New Rotor comes with bearings installed.
@@GeoffryWK The ones that I bought don’t.
is it the same for the rear
you should install new cotter pins as well instead of reusing the old ones!
Thanks! Good luck
Is it 200 or 295
what size torque wrench is that? 1/2" 3/4"? Length? Thanks.
I meant breaker bar.
thank you
how do you change that bearing? does it come right off?
Ronnie Rokk Smith the bearing is built in with the rotor
Peter Lee right but are you suppose to grease the bearings?....
Question? why you suggest buying a new 36mm nut?
It's recommended on a couple auto part stores websites when you search for the rotors. I don't quite understand it myself if the threads aren't bad on the old one to not just reuse it.
ok thanks.
Fred Louis You want to replace the spindle nut because they are pre-threaded with something akin to loctite, and at such a high torque value they are one-shot use. not an expensive part and something you definitely don't want to reuse
Patrick Bessasparis That and they have a nylon bushing on the end like an aircraft nut that disintegrates in the back off process.
I don't work on Fords, but I did the brakes on a relatives truck. According to my resources (shop key) the torque spec on the bolt is torque-to-yield. 125 lbs/ft + an additional 90 degrees + an additional 30 degrees. This is why I assume it is not reusable, due to the way the threads stretch, when using said method. The nut I removed was not locking, nor had nylon insert either. Maybe it changes during some years. This one was a 2006.
uuuh' - you don't grease' the axle, spindle area, before putting on the rotor ? 🤔
No, you do NOT want that part spinning. You want the bearing to seat on the spindle so the spinning part of the bearing can do it’s job.