What Everyone Needs To Know About Coin Grading
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 เม.ย. 2024
- What Everyone Needs To Know About Coin Grading
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What Everyone Needs To Know About Coin Grading
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How about the iPhone apps?
Great information. BUT, I am a collector of the STYLE and not the grade. I love the older designs. Buy what YOU like.
That's an excellent mindset. When you remove technical grading from your collection, all you're left with is how much the coin makes you smile, and with that you can have a lot of fun.
Yup, now we are at the enjoyment part of this hobby...@@TheWinstonDouble
Same!
“Grading” is subjectively opinionated.
Another great video Daniel ! Thanks.
The discrepancies are really glaring.Thanks Daniel.😊
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Knowledge and province of a coin leads to deeper beauty.
This is true, but I find the vast majority of people I talk to like their silver coins bright white with maybe a little attractive color light toning around the periphery.
I am only one minute and four seconds into this video and I know it’s going to be good. I am completely honestly to the heart with you on remembering coins Daniel I remember coins that I’ve seen over a year or two ago easily. But I am also like you with over three decades of experience millions and millions looked at in hand along with tens of thousands of graded coins. For the individuals that gets the benefit of doing this on a daily basis for decades, we are very far and few between.
Thank you!
Great video Daniel. One of my favorite coins I have purchased from you was the “Dirty Benjamin “ I purchased off of your website. I purchased it as a reminder to myself to not go by the grade but to take time to check the coin. Love you brother. Keep up the strong work for our community. We need strong men in America 🇺🇸
That's definitely a coin worth studying. Learning to grade dirty toned coins can help you sift out deals and mistakes. You can find some real gems heavily underpriced just because the eye appeal is terrible. But if what you're after is a technical high quality example they're often quite a good deal, especially when raw.
Coin grading is subjective! Grading companies just give people the comfort of knowing a coin is authentic!
Buy the coin not the holder. Great video Daniel
The best investment I ever made was taking the ANA grading class in the 1990s. It really focused me on what to look for and to buy what I like not what is on the slab.
Soooooo much to learn with coins...lol it harder then I thought but I'm learning thank you..
Spot on Daniel. Thanks again!
Big like number 428 sir! Excellent video and thank you for sharing that valuable information!
Instructive video with teachable examples in the coins presented. It feels like I just attended a college class after getting to the end of it.
Oh wow ! Just a collector + for 60+ years still I learn new things every day . When someone is honest like you the videos you put out are GOLD ! We all need ta be aware of the way coins not only are graded ,but low they look . The one Walker I never would buy . The grade was way off too me . Some people ask me about there coins . I tell em I'm NOT a coin grader , only a collector . I do let them know what " I " think of there coins . Tho I never give any value too em . I tell them ,go to a dealer and ask . Some coins have " more value " too the person than they are really worth . As you said ,some people will like a coin over a coin same year . Most people I think go by the grade given by a service ( PCGS / NGC ) over others . Buy the COIN , not the holder I was told . Thank you fer teaching me more about our hobby . Tom Daytona Beach , FL. 8, April 2024 .
I thought all of those walkers, except for two, we're overgraded.I would have graded the dark mottled coin as a ms62.Thankyou for the video Daniel.Good discussion.😊
I ty for passing ur knowledge along,I think there are greats in every professions/hobbie specialist, and you are my guy/go to for the professional
Great video, Daniel. I agree that you can remember seeing a coin before. I, for one, have a lot of trouble trying to guess a grade of a coin. That's why I buy the coin that appeals to me instead of the grade. I keep testing myself on knowing what gives the coins their grades. Thanks again, Daniel, for all you do for the hobby, and have a great day.
I love seeing all of those Walkers.
I do believe you have an eye for coins
Not only was this video really informative and reminded me of how little expertise I really have but it was fun too.
@CoinHELPu its good to have that kind of memory (remembering every coin) and the sixty trillion other bits of information we need to remember and everyones licence plate number lol hope your doing good brother
Hi you are the best. Too
OK too many crooks out there.
Great information, thanks and keep rolling
I really enjoyed your video and learned a lot from it
I was consistently 1-1.5pts low on every one of the Walkers. I'll take that every day. Gives me some hope for the three I have waiting to be sent off to PCGS.
As always, great content and training! Thank you for all your shared knowledge. Have a great day Sir Daniel!
When I look at these beautiful Walking Liberty Half Dollar I see my favorite design.
I see: Auction by Portsmouth = Opportunity
I agree with the comments you Daniel said on this video.
Daniel, I always look forward to your videos and getting educated 👌
This is why I purchase Raw coins that I like, And sometimes I purchase graded coins. I don't send out coins for grading because It's too much of a gamble.
TY as always!
Those are some nice coins. I wonder what grade they would be from CAC? MS-64 or less, I'd guess. Thanks for sharing, Daniel. 👍👍
Very thought-provoking video, Daniel! That one 66 with the dark spots I probably wouldn't have paid anything more than melt for!
I usually will only buy graded coins to decrease the chances of picking up counterfeits - and even then only if they appeal to me visually. I resist sending out coins for grading - though I do have a nice 1854 trime I picked up raw, that I am tempted to take a chance on..
Go for it, We all should have at least one of our own, we believe we have a bit of an eye on! - bet ya can't do just one! Good luck with that.
Great video Dan! Thank you for sharing 😎🤙🏼
Great video. Thank you for sharing this with us.
You remember all coins!! Cudos!!
As long as I sell them individually, but not when I sell them by the rolls.
Very good video thank you.
😮thank u
Good info! I also never forget a coin, just like faces, it must create its own brain cell 🧠
Daniel, I love SLQs and I require them to be essentially white, then I consider grade. So, for me, eye appeal is first priority. However, many of the highest graded SLQs, even top-pops in registry sets, are crusty and unattractive in my opinion. CAC was notorious for favoring crusty coins for stickering years back, but they have relented to the pressure of the marketplace which generally prefers clean white coins unless gorgeously toned. So, you’re correct that a high grade doesn’t mean a coin is pretty, and a pretty coin will not necessarily get a high grade - unless it also has few/no marks. Excellent discussion BTW.
Agreed- except between Crusty &Toning
I agreed with u on almost every coin, regarding "eye appeal and questionable grades😅...
Oh, & also with ur comment at the end... about what we see but what's underneath / what did we miss... HAHAH good stuff
I been learned to look at the thumb (left hand) to see if has a "Complete Strike" same as stars on cape an Ms. Liberty's facial details - As the center Breast feathers "Strike" from the Mint, & then Sheen, original bag dings.
Toning is a 2nd part of the equation, what impurity's each coin receives (eyes of the beholder "to GET to that Grade")
Milk spots in a slab - toughest to grade (or want in complete sets, IMO)
Well, that's my 1-1/2 cents. Daniel your dedication to the numismatics of silver is Cherished! I do learn from you, even have purchased. On my list to meet & greet someday!
Daniel,Good video. I keep learning good stuff. What would be a good book for a guy starting out ? Bubba
Like 99 💯🥈
How much do you think the reverse figures in the grading. Do you think because the reverse looks good they excuse the obverse eye appeal. I saw AU55 to MS64 in those coins
I think I would rather just bring my to you and have your expert opinion and then decide if they should be graded or not....Thanx Again Daniel!!
Sorry but I can’t offer a service like that. Thanks for the vote of confidence though.
I guess buying graded coins is a crap shoot. No more graded(more expensive) coins for me.
I am not sure the ase I have are first strike ms and pr 70 mine have no spots or toning,. the grading coins is above my pay grade. some of the coins i love the most are not graded. Thanks Daniel for the videos watching and liking
Personally I would rather have a great-looking AU than a dinged-up MS.
Grading is definitely a subjective thing. Especially when it comes to far older examples. You can look at four different pennies of Edward I's 1279 recoinage for example and they may all technically be, let's say, VF-40. But maybe one of them has an off-centre strike, another has a clipped edge, a third might be irregularly shaped, and for most people those things would reduce the grade and the value.
Me personally I'm not so hung up on grade. I have a 1700 William III halfpenny that's worn nearly flat, but I bought it because I didn't have a 1700 halfpenny. I have an 1827 George IV penny that has its edges squashed in, but it has a great deal of sentimental value to it because I got it many, many years ago from one of my closest school friends.
I collect purely for the joy of it.
San Francisco Coin are the hardest of grade you have to make sure some of the hands, the left hand invisible the word marks down the center and rusted
Thanks for this video, got to look at some gorgeous coins with this one!
Eye appeal shouldn't contribute to the grade. I know it does sometimes. But is that beautifully toned MS-66 really that grade? Or is it a 65 with a colour bump? Now the pricing is all messed up and the buyer could be paying a double premium on a 65. That's not a reliable grade in that circumstance. PCGS does say they put 60% influence on marks, 15% for lustre and strike, and 10% on the eye appeal. I doubt that is a rigid formula, but I think they ought to put that last 10% back into strike and lustre. When you have two identical coins in the surface preservation department, the only think setting one above the other is either how well it's struck or how fun it is to make the lustre swirl around. Eye appeal should be an opinion left to be dealt with between buyer & seller.
Lastly I'll say I like how you can memorize coins too. That shows you have a good eye that appreciates the details. Hope ya sell lots of coins today!
Hello. Great vidio. I know this isn't the place to ask ," what's this worth" " is this a dbl die " I just want to ask if you know where I could investigate pattern coins ? Thanks. I've tried to look on line and I'm not getting anywhere.
It's funny how differently I perceive such coins as an ancient coin collector. I'd gladly buy the darker and toned coins the modern collectors don't want if I was ever in the market for these. Blast white gets dull to me.
Honestly, for the way I like to collect in that I just want examples of the stuff I like, this is why I don't really like graded coins. Grading seems to overinflate the prices, and I personally like holding and touching the coins. I believe coins should be handled, restored, cleaned, and enjoyed. I feel like sticking them in covers takes some of the fun out of it. I also realize I am probably in the minority with these ideas, and that's okay...
I wouldn't call those a 66 except for the bright white one. I believe all were over graded 1 point and I'm not sure why they put CAC stickers on them i don't believe they are exceptional for the grade.
Unfortunately the grading companies do not have enough quality people to keep up with the work and of course that reflects on the grading
you should do a video on why the reverse of coins are most of the time nicer than the obverse.
Grading really shouldn’t be subjective. There’s parameters for each grade. That 43-D MS-66 is an AU all day long - it’s an error in grading which happens occasionally.
I need to log into your forum and ask you about buying a slabbed walking liberty half. I really want a good one (date is irrelevant), but I am struggling for the reasons you mention.
I don’t see the toning of these coins as being a big deal. Mostly, I see past it if it’s not harsh or ugly. Personally, I do prefer bright white coins.
Hey D, whenever I send stuff out, I am amazed, and have given up trying to figure it out. I have a theory, those walkers are a case in point, you know and have commented on the grading standards slide over the years. I think that as time goes on, there are fewer coins that have the crisp details, the frost, and the unmarked obverse, as in years past. It is really obvious on the Walkers, the fine detail on the Dress really are the touchstone, or rather were. Think of this, IF PCGS started giving these 62, 63, I am not sure they would have enough coins to grade, and of course not make any money. In other words the well may be going dry on the clear 66 and 67 of yesteryear. Also for some reason eye appeal does not seem to be that important these days.
Coin Mule
In my opinion, to discuss the accuracy of grades these coins should be looked at through a loop... too many marks can be missed without magnification and when they aren't rotated!
In my collection I have a PCGS Morgan and PCGS Barber Half Dollar that when compared to other PCGS - ANACS - NGC coins are DEFINITELY Over Graded
The toughest thing with Walking Liberty halves is grading them for sure. The thing is, it's not fair to compare a D mint Walker, which are generally well-struck and lustrous, to a P mint where the mintages were generally higher and the dies were allowed to wear more, to an S mint which can be notoriously weakly struck (and the mint workers were notorious for polishing and over-polishing dies.) That would bring the issue of whether the marks on the center area are indeed contact marks from handling, or planchet marks that weren't rendered out due to lower striking pressure or inadequate gapping or planchet thickness, or whatever. I suppose more seasoned folks can distinguish between the two, as marks from contact would leave a raised "burr" on the edges of the mark as the metal is displaced. Mint workers were also known to "grease" dies with a greasy rag, possibly in an attempt to "break in" a die, and said grease can get trapped in the deepest parts of the die leaving un-rendered details and spots that look like post-minting contact.
I'm not trying to defend the TPGs here, just offering my opinion on the topic.
I think most of this stems from pressure from the top dog Registry set folks, and a lack of supply to meet demand. Grading is all "relative" and if MS65 is the top grade for a particular issue, it should stay that way. Theoretically, un-rendered out planchet marks should negatively impact the coin's grade, but I think the TPGs had started grading certain issues on a "curve" the last 15 years or so. I personally don't agree with this practice, but you can see weakly struck coins that once were graded MS63-64 get resubmitted today for MS65-66. The problem is, it has become practice and policy, making it very tough to change. And the same with toning "bumps." This comes from the term the TPGs developed a couple decades ago with "market acceptability." Which is just a way for the TPGs to manipulate the market and create a market for something that was once unacceptable. An example would be the Appalachian hoard of toned WW2 Jefferson nickels, that would have all otherwise been given AT/QT labels. Another example would be the garbage proof "errors" from the late 1960s to the early 1980s, that snuck out through the forklift transmission oil pan.
Honestly, things were better when I was a kid, when our choices were unc, choice, gem, and superb, and sometimes a plus suffix. That was easy to understand.
Good comment, I failed to mention the differences in the mint. Thanks
It feels like all bets are off now that CACG has come in and... I don't know, is it fair to say they've gotten into their competitors' heads a little bit? I mean, I was starting to feel fairly confident in my grading acumen, but my last PCGS submission was a dumpster fire! Not consistent at all with the standards of a year or two ago. Moving the goalposts is taking all the fun out of cherrypicking my best coins for grading. I do it for financial gain too (sometimes), but if they take the fun out, well... that sucks.🤷♂
I feel like the graders should include a note either physically with the coin or digitally attached to the sn that explains the thought process and reasons for the grade.
Also are coin graders allowed to grade their own coins?
I agree.
The short video you just did about mercury dimes in unc did you find any 1916 D or 42/41.
No, just common dates.
Where did you get that from?
I know I have sold you coins you could never forget lol.
(6:25-6:32) I have to agree with u on that coin...
U. G. L. Y. 😅
for tarnished silver from cardboard, how about dipping in tarnX?
I don't recommend anything. Coin conservation and restoration are a coin by coin basis and an expert needs to examine the coin in hand.
I need help. I have SEVERAL coins in plastic air-tights in my safe (entire Kennedy PROOF set since 1964). Anyway, I got a bunch out the other day and noticed that a # of them (not all) have some haziness to them...that I don't remember? I'm not sure if I'm losing my mind or if the haziness has happened while in the safe?? Also, the safe is in our home (controlled environment). Anyone ever had this issue??
I have seen several of my friends' coins do the same thing. I would just make sure you control humidity in the safe [like with a large dessicant pack], and keep any paper material that's not acid-free away from the safe. The sulfuric acid used to process paper and cardboard can leave a residue that may outgas, resulting in toning and spotting of coins.
@@mojavegold- - great to know! Thx
Do you give approximate value through photos of coins?
No, I do not, coins must be seen in person for appraisals.
I have to disagree, I’ve seen milk spots show up on graded coins after they’ve been graded, at the time of grading the milk spots were either not there or microscopic but grew like a fungus in a Petri dish. They definitely do change over time
Milk spots on coins come from the mint, so they can't show up afterward, but a coin can gain a patina so you can see them better because the toning creates more contrast. Trust me, the milk spots are there before the grading. that is the mint process and nature of milk spots to even exists.
^5 on almost being like relationships…LoL
Lol I’m a photographer with a photographic memory…on photos I take even if someone else crops or edits them. Weird eh
hi
Maybe the coin graders give better grades to the customers who use their service’s more!!!
Where do you get coins graded
PCGS, NGC, ANACS and they all have websites to find out all the other details and questions.
Why do all coin dealers compare all coins graded to PCGS it’s like no one else can grade a coin but them.
I have many videos with NGC and ANACS.
I disagree with you. I would pay for a good grade with toning any day over a untoned coin.
Ugly and dark toning?
cac is a scam.
Good: then don't compete with me on CAC auctions.
It absolutely isn't.
@@jeffw1267 , i don't give a s** about cac autions, cac coins or your opinion, you got that pal?
As much as I would love for an AI entity to officially grade coins, I think there is just too much that goes into the process. I was once an advocate of MLB going to an AI system to judge balls vs strikes, but unlike tennis, where examining a replay, along with lasers on the court to decidedly call the ball in or out, baseball would have to develop uniforms that had markers on them for a computer to understand the parameters. This I've wondered about with AI coin grading. There's a shit ton of data that would have to be integrated into the software, the thought of coding every VAM that ever existed is TAUNTING at the least. It just seems that certain activities we humans participate in will always need a human aspect involved..... Until machines become self aware and conscience, they will only be as good as their creator in regurgitation of data. I think coin grading is just too subjective and humans are subjective beings. Thanks for the vid. Anytime you have a vid concerning Morgans, I emplore you, please make them as long as u wish. They never get old. Peace🙏🕉️
Humor me... A device, using AI, laser scans coins, measuring the brightness, marks, details and all orientations of the coins surface and details. AI will eventually learn to explain the differences between each coin based on the minute measurements, then find a match among a data base of images or determine it is a new variety.
I just don't see how difficult that is, but I am also not a programmer. However, I have three apps on my phone that ID's plants, trees, rocks and dog breeds. I take an image and it gives me the details. I just don't see how it is any different.
Hello is there any way you could help me out identify if some quarters (bicentennial) that I have are errors or not? Particularly one (maybe 2) it gots a "extra" piece connecting the letters U and N in the word Unum, I will appreciate it if I get a response from you even if you just say no, I have tried asking around on other coin channels like blueridge something, couchcollectibles, bbcoins and they have all ignored me all I'm asking for is a little help please and thanks in advance!!
You might have a minor die chip it sounds like. Without pics we can't say anything for certain. This channel has a help community forum. Just google COIN HELP U COMMUNITY and google will surely give you the link. It's free to sign up. After you do, read the guidelines for a post. Front image of coin, back image of coin, and a closeup of the area in question if possible. Take clear focused pictures please, and not a picture of a display from a digital microscope. Add a question of what you'd like to know and you'll probably have a response from one of the experts there within a couple hours.
@@TheWinstonDouble thanks I appreciate that I at least finally got a response from someone, once I post the pictures I will come back and let you know in case you want to take a look at it also
@@xTANKxZEROx Yep, I check the forum ever couple days. I'll see it up there probably. If you wanna let me know here when you have it, I am quite active on TH-cam comments so I'll probably see it here first. We'd be glad to have another member on the forum, so thank you.
You must post images and questions in the coinhelpu community.