I have a similar technique that I use for stencils. I buy clear book covering contact from the craft shop (about a buck per roll) and cut it into A4 sized sheets. It's thin enough to fit through my inkjet printer and the paper backing holds the ink well, but you have to flatten the sheets first coz they curl up back into their rolled up state if you don't. I leave them overnight under a pile of books before putting them through the printer. You can then design whatever pattern you want to put on your model on your computer, print it, cut it out and spray. if you are making stencils for something that has a specific direction like letters or numbers for example make sure that you reverse them so they look backwards. This is because the shape is being printed on the BACKING so it is around the other way when viewed from the other side. Some printers may not deal well with this though so be careful.
Thank you for this suggestion. I think I will use this for the pesky great company icon for the space wolves. It's been a huge pain for me to try and freehand them, and they don't look as good as I'd like that way.
@@poliestotico I haven't had any problems with it sticking too well. If you are worried, don't press it down too hard and remove it as soon as possible to avoid trouble.
In order to "localise" my model railway, I wanted to make a stencil to airbrush a specific company logo onto the fleet of tankers. After going round in square circles i stumbled on this video. It appears to be exactly what I'm looking for. I then spent a while going around in triangular circles because I thought it was spelt FRISKIT but that's a whole different story. Many thanks, a great clip that's well presented and easy to follow.
Thanks Adam, I'm just building my first armies and am not even ready to start painting yet. But these types of videos help the creative juices. I just had a discussion about getting an air brush strictly for priming as I do not have an outdoor space for using rattle cans.
Somebody mentioned blu-tack below, which works well for camo patterns, but can be a pain to remove. I've come to really like Silly Putty for that purpose. It goes on really easily, stays on while you need it to, and comes off very easily when the paint is dry. It's probably also worth mentioning that if you start by painting the "top" color (insignia for instance), you can use a positive shape for your frisket rather than a negative shape and paint the next color over the whole model. If there's a third color, leave the first frisket on, add the frisket for the second color and then paint the whole model in the third color. Only when everything is finished do you remove all the layers of frisket. This can sometimes be much easier to do, especially when there's some sort of complex overlay pattern like some kinds of camo.
I cut stencils from the low-tack green type of Frog Tape, placed on a sheet of glass. Gives very crisp edges when cut with a fresh X-Acto blade. The tape is chemically treated to prevent the paint from "bleeding" under the edges of your stencil. Also, thin your paint well and spray at low pressure (around 10 psi).
Just came back from a weekend at my brother's. He's building Chaos vs. his son's Space Marines. Traveled super light and didn't pack a single modeling implement, so I built and painted a Cultist character from scrap pieces. NOW I wish I had frisket film for the cape... that would have been awesome-sauce.!!
I find if I need to stencil a complex curve, having the minimum amount of material on the stencil helps. You can always come back in with making tape or something to mask off the rest of the areas
Another fairly simple alternative is printing your own decals. Decal paper is cheap, inkjet printers aren’t uncommon and with some microsol/microset it’ll adhere over any curve and detail perfectly
I've repurposed the x-large post-it note pages from meetings at work and used the sticky part to make stencils before. It works, but it has a steep learning curve. Plus, it's paper instead of plastic, so it isn't as strong and wears out quickly. I also use silly putty to quickly mask off of large areas of my model that I don't want paint on. This works great to hold down the outer edges of a stencil and to mask off the areas beyond the stencil.
I have a plotter/cutter machine as I'm an airbrush artist and I often cut stencils from sheets of thin low tack vinyl called ultramask. Its easier to draw on and cut through than frisket as it isn't so flimsy
If you are cheap (like I am) and don't know how to use airbrushes (like me) you can also use frisket film and use a drybrush method to make icons and shapes on stuff. It *ISN'T* as clean as air brushing (duh) but it is a lot cleaner than free-handing (for someone like me). Just make sure you don't use a wet brush because the paint will creep up under the film and ruin whatever shape you are going for. I used it for runes on my respirator at work (because I made the respirator myself, so why not?) Great video as always :)
Alternatives from a professional illustrator trained back in the 90s: Get thinnish sheets of acetate or mylar, make your stencil (might want to use a stencil burner), spray the back with 3M Spray Mount (it's a temporary adhesive), let it dry until just barely tacky and use the stencil. This will work nicely for something as large as a Rhino or other vehicle. Just be careful to let the spray mount dry for some time first otherwise it might pull up some paint. The acetate/mylar stencils will last for good amount of time. If you do not use the spray mount, then you can get feathered edges from the stencil because the paint will blow a little underneath the edges as the air lifts the acetate or mylar. Happy painting, friends!
I use 0.3mm plasticcard for stencils. they are reusable and fixable with sticky or masking tape. for round surfaces, I use a hairdryer on low setting, gently warm and reshape the stencil.
Post cards work well. There a pretty thick paper and you get them in the mail all the time from different places trying to promote or sale you something. You can reuse those servial time's as well and you get them for free all the time.
I usually use either liquid latex masking fluid or blue tack to mask off tanks for camo patterns, but this might work perfectly for a sharper, blockier pattern like Berlin Brigade camo or dazzle patterns. I wonder how well my vinyl cutter would cut out those stencils... Darn you, Uncle Atom! Down another rabbit hole I go...
Poster putty (Blue Tack is a brand name for a specific kind, I think) is great for camo masking. I made a video about the wonders of poster putty back in the day. Thanks for watching!
I've always just used printer paper with scotch-tape to make it paint-proofed. Good, long-term repeatable stencils that you can use masking tape to hold down on a model. Then again, I'm a 1/35 military modeler. I might try and use this.
I've 3D-printed stencils for completely flat surfaces before (e.g. for spraying my logo on the bottom of my miniatures' bases for example) by turning the shape I want into a vector image and 'cutting' that out of a flat cylinder or cube in my modelling program (Blender). That way you can make a very sturdy and (infinitely?) reusable stencil! Downside of course is that it can't do bent surfaces at all (as far as I know, might be fun to try though)..
I don't make many stencils, but if it's low tack and not as much hassle as masking tape it could work well for masking off areas too .. so I'll keep my eyes open for some of this stuff :D - Cheers!!
I hate to point this out to you but in WW2 the first thing their crewa did when they got those tanks with the white star was to paint over the white star as it just so happened to be painted at the weakspot in in the armor makeing a tempting target like hitting a bullseye. Hopefully it's not the same with these space Marines. Thanks for the video have a wonderful day.
This is a great tip I don't have a real airbrush (I have a car tire compressor with an airbrush hose attached with electrical tape, I've patented the design, don't even) so detail is out but this I can do.
It's not stupid if it works! I started airbrushing with a air tool hot dog shaped compressor then upgraded to a pancake one. Both are somewhat noisy for late nigh painting in a condo. Eventually, I bought an airbrush compressor from a friend who was no longer using it.
@@GeneJordan It actually lays down a really nice base coat but that and varnishing is all its good for. I know what you mean about the noise I used to have to only airbrush when the kids were awake but my new place has a garage so mixing the paint to the right thickness is all I need to worry about now.
will have to try this, for flat surfaces I have some 3d printed ones, for curves I use thin silicone baking sheets and cut my shapes out of thembut they do not come out as clean as that
So I was instantly thinking about Space Marine Shoulder Pads when I started watching this. Sadly as you stated, those are a "double curve" surface. Is there anything like this that might work for those kinds of situations where the surface is curved in 2 directions? (Would love to not need to rely on decals)
avery makes a version as well, but they just call it clear label sheets, I even use it to make copies of decals, it stays on the a/c plastic pretty decent, but I do add a touch of sealer on it.
Hi there, love your channel. Very new to airbrushing, just purchased the master pro 3 package. Was thinking of buying a iwata eclipse. Was wondering if you could tell me if it will hook up to my master air compressor.
Art stores are a godsend: Cheap acrylic paints for terrain, Brushes, Sculpting Tools, Tacky Glue, Spray Adhesive, Acrylic Gesso, Glass Bottles for fantasy potions, Chain, Gears, Wooden Circles (bases) Fake Gemstones, And probably more stuff that i can't think of at the moment.
I've found bags of miscellaneous sizes and shapes of small metal tubes (brass, copper, etc) at Dick Blick's art stores before. They are great for terrain/scenery/Ork vehicles, etc.
Mention that you need to use the 'negative' of the cut out, cut a box around the cross (or whatever) - placing the cross on the model will cover the area you are trying to paint. Another tip for those, like myself that barely passed 'cutting' in kindergarten, find someone with a vinyl cutter (it's surprising how many people own them). Let a computer program and machine do the work.
Yeah I use film stencils, I have done for years. You dont have to stick it down as you did to do your crosses, you can hold it close and then spray. Thats how I do the eyes of Space Marines. When you spray them then I just put a wash into the corners and highlight them with a brush and touch up the over hang etc if required. There are a lot of guys who airbrush their models in all kinds of ways, with lots of different airbrushes. I first picked up an airbrush to paint minis when the Mk7 power armour marines were released, I used it for artworks for a while before that but the Mk7 marines were my first minis to get an airbrushing. I think thats the only real difference between those who can and those who cant with an airbrush. simply time... Close on 30 years of experience will give you unicorn like skills with an airbrush, but to me its not that skill level at all, its just normal level, all you need is practice.
One thing I like to use for a stencil is Soda Pop Box card board. For small detail stencils this would be awesome. What kind of sponge did you use for the chips?
So odd question. How does frisket film hold up against brushing on paint? Is it possible? Let's say you don't have an airbrush but want to have a checkered effect on your cloak. Can this be used for that? Or what alternative solution would you recommend for something like that. Keeping to average space marine scale
I don’t even have an airbrush, nor do I plan to get one, but for some reason when I have your videos going on in the background while I’m painting my hand shakes less
Hi, i was wondering, i know it's not modernized but if i wanted to do a squat army right now how would i go about it, i'm fairly new to warhammer 40k and i know little about the squats, i only know their old and that's about it i can't really find anything usefull online to help me build an "army" for 8th using old models because i don't know where to begin if anyone could help that would be awesome thanks.
Tabletop Minions Looks like a race for us. Lol. If you didn’t get the Bluetooth adaptor for the cutter let me know. I picked up one for a fraction of the price the Cricut one cost. I may need new frisket since my roll is so old I’m not sure it will stick at all.
Thanks Adam! This is about to be very useful information in my life, I was on the hunt for some low-tack paper for stencils, the sticky vinyl sheets that I have around are wayyyy too sticky. I'll have try this out with my cricut cutter! This is about to be very useful information in my life :-)
Goobertown Hobbies Did you use this in your cricut cutter? I was going to try that as well. I’m interested in how it worked for you and the settings you ended up using.
@@railbuilderdhd I haven't yet, but it just jumped way up on my priority list. If it works well I'll probably post a video. I've got a lot of roman shields that need patterns, and I'd love to make some custom shoulder pads for space marines. Let me know if you try it before I do!
Goobertown Hobbies I’m going to try it with some other models before I do Warhammer 40K. I’ll be doing a video on my hobby channel as soon as I get some test done. I was also going to try the no tacky film as a stencil as well. I’ll post a link to the video when I get it done on my channel. (Different account - scale model Junkie).
The nice USPS lady delivered me a Cricut cutter about an hour ago. I'm hoping to try cutting frisket with it, maybe even this weekend. And cutting lots of other stuff, too. Thanks for watching!
I've been aware of Frisket Film for years, never bought and used it though as I've always found other ways of doing markings - printing markings on decal paper is far easier, although it can have it's problems, and it's probably not as cheap considering you need at least an inkjet printer, preferably with ink in it... I think a lot of the skills Atom is describing in this video (and other videos) have been lost, due to a generation or two of kids not growing up building models of any sort (certainly the case in the UK), instead choosing video gaming and whatnot as a hobby, and LHS's have gone to the wall (again common in the UK). However a lot of the techniques armour and aircraft modellers have been using for decades seem to have filtered through to the GW hobby in the last 5-10 years and with the dawn of the youtuber age (i.e. in the last 5-10 or so years) these skills, and knowledge of materials, are it seems slowly being rediscovered, and the level of detail/realism people (try to) put into models seems to have been turned up to 11. However there is a certain amount of artistic ability required, any chimp can dab paint onto a model, but making it look right takes artistic ability, something which many youtubers seem to have, but they are in the minority, the rest of us are just chimps dabbing away with paint... That's the thing I find most frustrating about the GW hobby these days (besides the obsession, by many players, with the competitive meta) - if you believe what you see on the internet and social media in particular everyone weathers their vehicles (and other models), everyone is great at it, and if you can't achieve the same results it can leave you feeling like a mediocre modeller...
That is where deliberate practice comes in. As Uncle Atom has said, it is 85% technique and 15% artistic talent. Keep painting, you will surprise yourself.
just hang in there. I have friends and relatives who lament the same. I'll put 'er this way, the baseline, organic component of this hobby is community. Imagine if no ever threw a party or decorated their house because they weren't as the mavis-moguls that rule Y.T. or F.B.?! Just build, paint, play, repeat. My little brother kicks my ass every time, but he wants to paint like me. I tell him (and anyone) just add one skill or technique at a time. He really does build and paint better now than when we were kids (when we were kids, he painted sort of like... imagine dipping a couple of mice into your chosen colors, then throwing them and your models into a cookie jar, taping on the lid and kicking it down a hill - which I don't advocate because, perfectly good cookie jar.) Any way, now (20+ years later) he paints.... better. But he still whoops my ass. There are so many aspects to this hobby; painting is just one of them. No one will judge you poorly for sticking with it. If anyone does, sic Uncle Atom on 'em.
Oh gosh I wish people airbrushing things like eyes was a myth, it would make me feel better. Unfortunately I have witnessed that level of detail and I may or may not hate him now. I don't but also I do.
Love your videos and as someone fairly new to wargaming/Warhammer ive been picking second-hand bits up off eBay. Have you got any tips on stripping old acrylic paint off models? Is a sonic bath needed or can i do something else? I'm trying to keep costs low while i find what i want to focus on. Cheers
He has a video called the pitfalls of stripping where he goes through four options of stripping paint. He uses simple green cleaner and some purple cleaner I think.
@@naphaneal A die cutter like Circuit or Silhouette would probably work. Save a step for the low low price of $250! There's also adjustable spray adhesive available. That would allow direct use of the print instead of having to transfer it. Best to print on cardstock because the paint will probably soak through regular copier paper. And be sure to test that the spray adhesive doesn't rip the paint of your model when you remove the stencil.
It’s a shotgun mic on a boom arm above me and it’s connected via XLR to a digital recorder. Then I sync up the audio to my camera in post. Thanks for watching!
@@tabletopminions appreciated :) Getting back into the hobby after 20 years away and have been devouring your content, which has enabled me to make confident purchasing decisions. Now, back to days endlessly staring out the window waiting for the packages to arrive...
You're an excellent orator. You're videos are concise, thoughtful and honest. However you need to spend more time on how to. Use more physical models on a table facing us like Critical role only for showcasing how to Videos. Nice beard by the way.
I usually use either liquid latex masking fluid or blue tack to mask off tanks for camo patterns, but this might work perfectly for a sharper, blockier pattern like Berlin Brigade camo or dazzle patterns. I wonder how well my vinyl cutter would cut out those stencils... Darn you, Uncle Atom! Down another rabbit hole I go...
Use a blowdryer to heat the film. It forms to more complex shapes better if it is warm. It will shorten the life of the film though.
Interesting tip. I'll have to check it out. Thanks for watching!
I'm just here to look at painting techniques for my keyboard and just wanted to mention how nice your audio is!
Not selfmade, but those fingernail art stencil stickers are pretty good and cheap stencils for smaller areas, like hazard stripes for iron warriors.
400 IQ, thank you so much
I have a similar technique that I use for stencils. I buy clear book covering contact from the craft shop (about a buck per roll) and cut it into A4 sized sheets. It's thin enough to fit through my inkjet printer and the paper backing holds the ink well, but you have to flatten the sheets first coz they curl up back into their rolled up state if you don't. I leave them overnight under a pile of books before putting them through the printer. You can then design whatever pattern you want to put on your model on your computer, print it, cut it out and spray. if you are making stencils for something that has a specific direction like letters or numbers for example make sure that you reverse them so they look backwards. This is because the shape is being printed on the BACKING so it is around the other way when viewed from the other side. Some printers may not deal well with this though so be careful.
Thank you for this suggestion. I think I will use this for the pesky great company icon for the space wolves. It's been a huge pain for me to try and freehand them, and they don't look as good as I'd like that way.
Hey! Quick question, is it not too sticky?
@@poliestotico I haven't had any problems with it sticking too well. If you are worried, don't press it down too hard and remove it as soon as possible to avoid trouble.
In order to "localise" my model railway, I wanted to make a stencil to airbrush a specific company logo onto the fleet of tankers. After going round in square circles i stumbled on this video. It appears to be exactly what I'm looking for. I then spent a while going around in triangular circles because I thought it was spelt FRISKIT but that's a whole different story. Many thanks, a great clip that's well presented and easy to follow.
Thanks Adam, I'm just building my first armies and am not even ready to start painting yet. But these types of videos help the creative juices. I just had a discussion about getting an air brush strictly for priming as I do not have an outdoor space for using rattle cans.
Somebody mentioned blu-tack below, which works well for camo patterns, but can be a pain to remove. I've come to really like Silly Putty for that purpose. It goes on really easily, stays on while you need it to, and comes off very easily when the paint is dry.
It's probably also worth mentioning that if you start by painting the "top" color (insignia for instance), you can use a positive shape for your frisket rather than a negative shape and paint the next color over the whole model. If there's a third color, leave the first frisket on, add the frisket for the second color and then paint the whole model in the third color. Only when everything is finished do you remove all the layers of frisket. This can sometimes be much easier to do, especially when there's some sort of complex overlay pattern like some kinds of camo.
I was literally asking in my drukhari group today about this.
Perfect timing.
Totally not psychic. Thanks for watching!
I cut stencils from the low-tack green type of Frog Tape, placed on a sheet of glass. Gives very crisp edges when cut with a fresh X-Acto blade. The tape is chemically treated to prevent the paint from "bleeding" under the edges of your stencil. Also, thin your paint well and spray at low pressure (around 10 psi).
Just came back from a weekend at my brother's. He's building Chaos vs. his son's Space Marines. Traveled super light and didn't pack a single modeling implement, so I built and painted a Cultist character from scrap pieces. NOW I wish I had frisket film for the cape... that would have been awesome-sauce.!!
Making hobby lives easier. Thanks Uncle Atom.
I find if I need to stencil a complex curve, having the minimum amount of material on the stencil helps. You can always come back in with making tape or something to mask off the rest of the areas
You can get a huge number of masks for scale modelling of aircraft, tanks etc. It could take some finding but you would be amazed what you can find.
Another fairly simple alternative is printing your own decals. Decal paper is cheap, inkjet printers aren’t uncommon and with some microsol/microset it’ll adhere over any curve and detail perfectly
I do a lot of my own decals but there is no easy way to do decals in white or silver like Adam is showing here.
Jack Fletcher that is very true
Have you done a video on recycling old models either by using in scenery or making random stuff?
Oh man. I was just thinking about this. That's so creepy. THANKS UNCLE ATOM!
I told you, I’m not a psychic. Thanks for watching!
@@tabletopminions I'm starting to think you are. I mean, I guess we'll see next week....
And thank you for making.
I've used clear shelf liner as masking for years.
I've repurposed the x-large post-it note pages from meetings at work and used the sticky part to make stencils before. It works, but it has a steep learning curve. Plus, it's paper instead of plastic, so it isn't as strong and wears out quickly. I also use silly putty to quickly mask off of large areas of my model that I don't want paint on. This works great to hold down the outer edges of a stencil and to mask off the areas beyond the stencil.
You have a great voice ...really keeps my attention. Thank you for the lesson
I have a plotter/cutter machine as I'm an airbrush artist and I often cut stencils from sheets of thin low tack vinyl called ultramask. Its easier to draw on and cut through than frisket as it isn't so flimsy
Thanks for the tip. I have never heard of frisket film before but I have many ideas that I can use it for. Looking forward to this Sundays show.
Wonder what frisket film is called around here..
If you are cheap (like I am) and don't know how to use airbrushes (like me) you can also use frisket film and use a drybrush method to make icons and shapes on stuff. It *ISN'T* as clean as air brushing (duh) but it is a lot cleaner than free-handing (for someone like me). Just make sure you don't use a wet brush because the paint will creep up under the film and ruin whatever shape you are going for.
I used it for runes on my respirator at work (because I made the respirator myself, so why not?)
Great video as always :)
I’ve had great luck 3D printing airbrush stencils. It’s super quick and easy (minus the 3D printing learning curve of course).
I had never heard of it before either, so thankyou. Really nice effect.
Alternatives from a professional illustrator trained back in the 90s: Get thinnish sheets of acetate or mylar, make your stencil (might want to use a stencil burner), spray the back with 3M Spray Mount (it's a temporary adhesive), let it dry until just barely tacky and use the stencil. This will work nicely for something as large as a Rhino or other vehicle. Just be careful to let the spray mount dry for some time first otherwise it might pull up some paint. The acetate/mylar stencils will last for good amount of time. If you do not use the spray mount, then you can get feathered edges from the stencil because the paint will blow a little underneath the edges as the air lifts the acetate or mylar. Happy painting, friends!
I use 0.3mm plasticcard for stencils. they are reusable and fixable with sticky or masking tape. for round surfaces, I use a hairdryer on low setting, gently warm and reshape the stencil.
Brilliant.. how long does it take?
@@odinoldman5850 depends on the stencil. between a couple of hours up to a day.
Post cards work well. There a pretty thick paper and you get them in the mail all the time from different places trying to promote or sale you something. You can reuse those servial time's as well and you get them for free all the time.
I usually use either liquid latex masking fluid or blue tack to mask off tanks for camo patterns, but this might work perfectly for a sharper, blockier pattern like Berlin Brigade camo or dazzle patterns. I wonder how well my vinyl cutter would cut out those stencils... Darn you, Uncle Atom! Down another rabbit hole I go...
Poster putty (Blue Tack is a brand name for a specific kind, I think) is great for camo masking. I made a video about the wonders of poster putty back in the day. Thanks for watching!
I've always just used printer paper with scotch-tape to make it paint-proofed. Good, long-term repeatable stencils that you can use masking tape to hold down on a model. Then again, I'm a 1/35 military modeler. I might try and use this.
I've 3D-printed stencils for completely flat surfaces before (e.g. for spraying my logo on the bottom of my miniatures' bases for example) by turning the shape I want into a vector image and 'cutting' that out of a flat cylinder or cube in my modelling program (Blender). That way you can make a very sturdy and (infinitely?) reusable stencil! Downside of course is that it can't do bent surfaces at all (as far as I know, might be fun to try though)..
Nice; especially that Deadzone Terrain.
I really like the new t-shirt too; gabba gabba, one of us.
This is going to be a great tool for when I get to painting my Harlequin vehicles!!
I would suggest buying a pre made diamond stencil for Harlequin. You might go crazy cutting that pattern out.
Relief cuts can help you with domed or complex shapes.
You have a great voice ,....................You should be in documentaries , very pleasant to listen to . great vid
Thank You
Great stuff. Art stores are bomb! Much love from a fellow Wisconsinite.
Oh good idea, I just saw the title and now I want to go do it.
I don't make many stencils, but if it's low tack and not as much hassle as masking tape it could work well for masking off areas too .. so I'll keep my eyes open for some of this stuff :D - Cheers!!
I had been using 3x5 cards, the cheap thin ones from the dollar store and cutting stencils from that. Gotta try the Frisket stuff...
I hate to point this out to you but in WW2 the first thing their crewa did when they got those tanks with the white star was to paint over the white star as it just so happened to be painted at the weakspot in in the armor makeing a tempting target like hitting a bullseye. Hopefully it's not the same with these space Marines. Thanks for the video have a wonderful day.
This is a great tip I don't have a real airbrush (I have a car tire compressor with an airbrush hose attached with electrical tape, I've patented the design, don't even) so detail is out but this I can do.
It's not stupid if it works! I started airbrushing with a air tool hot dog shaped compressor then upgraded to a pancake one. Both are somewhat noisy for late nigh painting in a condo. Eventually, I bought an airbrush compressor from a friend who was no longer using it.
@@GeneJordan It actually lays down a really nice base coat but that and varnishing is all its good for. I know what you mean about the noise I used to have to only airbrush when the kids were awake but my new place has a garage so mixing the paint to the right thickness is all I need to worry about now.
will have to try this, for flat surfaces I have some 3d printed ones, for curves I use thin silicone baking sheets and cut my shapes out of thembut they do not come out as clean as that
Some great into on the frisket film, thanks for sharing!...Bill
So I was instantly thinking about Space Marine Shoulder Pads when I started watching this. Sadly as you stated, those are a "double curve" surface. Is there anything like this that might work for those kinds of situations where the surface is curved in 2 directions? (Would love to not need to rely on decals)
Just subscribed! I’m buying a Air Brush as we speak because you said so!
avery makes a version as well, but they just call it clear label sheets, I even use it to make copies of decals, it stays on the a/c plastic pretty decent, but I do add a touch of sealer on it.
thanks awesome!! Any easy ways to mask out airplane or spaceship cockpit windows to paint the metal framework besides buying the precut masks? Thanks
Hi there, love your channel. Very new to airbrushing, just purchased the master pro 3 package. Was thinking of buying a iwata eclipse. Was wondering if you could tell me if it will hook up to my master air compressor.
Brilliant! this really helped me out!
Thanks for the information. Great looking models too!
super helpful. i will definitely be looking in to it. seeing as i recently got my first airbrush. :)
do you have a guide on how to paint the rhino in this video?
Great tip. Many thanks.
Art stores are a godsend:
Cheap acrylic paints for terrain,
Brushes,
Sculpting Tools,
Tacky Glue,
Spray Adhesive,
Acrylic Gesso,
Glass Bottles for fantasy potions,
Chain,
Gears,
Wooden Circles (bases)
Fake Gemstones,
And probably more stuff that i can't think of at the moment.
I've found bags of miscellaneous sizes and shapes of small metal tubes (brass, copper, etc) at Dick Blick's art stores before. They are great for terrain/scenery/Ork vehicles, etc.
@@GeneJordan Sadly metal tubes are not something our art stores here in Bulgaria have
@@TheMonyarm I think they are the leftovers from a model train terrain company.
You are a psychic! I was just thinking the other day I need to make some stencils. :p
Mention that you need to use the 'negative' of the cut out, cut a box around the cross (or whatever) - placing the cross on the model will cover the area you are trying to paint. Another tip for those, like myself that barely passed 'cutting' in kindergarten, find someone with a vinyl cutter (it's surprising how many people own them). Let a computer program and machine do the work.
BTW, great topic! I know about liquid frisket, I use it for glass etching, but did not know they made a film. Thanks for the tip.
I just got a Cricut cutter today, so I'm going to try cutting frisket with it. Thanks for watching!
Throwing some shapes. Can you add this to your airbrushing playlist?
Yeah I use film stencils, I have done for years. You dont have to stick it down as you did to do your crosses, you can hold it close and then spray. Thats how I do the eyes of Space Marines.
When you spray them then I just put a wash into the corners and highlight them with a brush and touch up the over hang etc if required.
There are a lot of guys who airbrush their models in all kinds of ways, with lots of different airbrushes.
I first picked up an airbrush to paint minis when the Mk7 power armour marines were released, I used it for artworks for a while before that but the Mk7 marines were my first minis to get an airbrushing.
I think thats the only real difference between those who can and those who cant with an airbrush. simply time... Close on 30 years of experience will give you unicorn like skills with an airbrush, but to me its not that skill level at all, its just normal level, all you need is practice.
Have you seen any one use a Cricut to make stencils? I bought my wife one for Christmas and she hasn’t used it so now I’m looking for uses for it!!
One thing I like to use for a stencil is Soda Pop Box card board. For small detail stencils this would be awesome. What kind of sponge did you use for the chips?
I reckon, some household sponge or foam packaging from metal minis or resin conversion parts.
I use the dark grey foam that comes in some miniatures blister packs, usually metal miniatures. Thanks for watching!
@@naphaneal I like the repurposed packaging idea.
So odd question. How does frisket film hold up against brushing on paint? Is it possible?
Let's say you don't have an airbrush but want to have a checkered effect on your cloak. Can this be used for that? Or what alternative solution would you recommend for something like that. Keeping to average space marine scale
I don’t even have an airbrush, nor do I plan to get one, but for some reason when I have your videos going on in the background while I’m painting my hand shakes less
I wonder if you could use that to make camouflage on tanks
Absolutely. It will make hard edges camo.
Two questions, though:
1) are rattlecans used by rattlesnakes as well?
2) does frisket film ever get frisky?
Atom... that terrain!M🤤🤤🤤
Can confirm: bought an airbrush a month ago because Uncle Atom told me to.
Hi, i was wondering, i know it's not modernized but if i wanted to do a squat army right now how would i go about it, i'm fairly new to warhammer 40k and i know little about the squats, i only know their old and that's about it i can't really find anything usefull online to help me build an "army" for 8th using old models because i don't know where to begin if anyone could help that would be awesome thanks.
Quote of the video 6:22 "if you have a tacky hole"...thx uncle atom you made me LOL
Wow your voice is awesome! million dollar voice! $$$
What airbrush would you recommend? I’ve never used one before.
That would be an amazing material to use with a Cricut and have it do the cuts for you. I know what my next project is now
Matt Lester did you get this done with your cutter? How did it turn out?
I have not yet, I only found out about it like an hour ago lol. Currently stuck at work
I'm going to be trying it, too. Just got a Cricut from the nice USPS lady a few hours ago. Thanks for watching!
Tabletop Minions
Looks like a race for us. Lol. If you didn’t get the Bluetooth adaptor for the cutter let me know. I picked up one for a fraction of the price the Cricut one cost.
I may need new frisket since my roll is so old I’m not sure it will stick at all.
Which machine did you get? If its the Maker you wont need a Bluetooth adapter
Great topic
Thanks Adam! This is about to be very useful information in my life, I was on the hunt for some low-tack paper for stencils, the sticky vinyl sheets that I have around are wayyyy too sticky. I'll have try this out with my cricut cutter! This is about to be very useful information in my life :-)
Goobertown Hobbies
Did you use this in your cricut cutter? I was going to try that as well. I’m interested in how it worked for you and the settings you ended up using.
@@railbuilderdhd I haven't yet, but it just jumped way up on my priority list. If it works well I'll probably post a video. I've got a lot of roman shields that need patterns, and I'd love to make some custom shoulder pads for space marines. Let me know if you try it before I do!
Goobertown Hobbies
I’m going to try it with some other models before I do Warhammer 40K. I’ll be doing a video on my hobby channel as soon as I get some test done. I was also going to try the no tacky film as a stencil as well. I’ll post a link to the video when I get it done on my channel. (Different account - scale model Junkie).
The nice USPS lady delivered me a Cricut cutter about an hour ago. I'm hoping to try cutting frisket with it, maybe even this weekend. And cutting lots of other stuff, too. Thanks for watching!
@@tabletopminions NICE! This is going to be fun :-)
For simple stuff like the stripes on the deadzone terrain i'd just use masking tape. Thats even cheaper.
I've been aware of Frisket Film for years, never bought and used it though as I've always found other ways of doing markings - printing markings on decal paper is far easier, although it can have it's problems, and it's probably not as cheap considering you need at least an inkjet printer, preferably with ink in it...
I think a lot of the skills Atom is describing in this video (and other videos) have been lost, due to a generation or two of kids not growing up building models of any sort (certainly the case in the UK), instead choosing video gaming and whatnot as a hobby, and LHS's have gone to the wall (again common in the UK).
However a lot of the techniques armour and aircraft modellers have been using for decades seem to have filtered through to the GW hobby in the last 5-10 years and with the dawn of the youtuber age (i.e. in the last 5-10 or so years) these skills, and knowledge of materials, are it seems slowly being rediscovered, and the level of detail/realism people (try to) put into models seems to have been turned up to 11. However there is a certain amount of artistic ability required, any chimp can dab paint onto a model, but making it look right takes artistic ability, something which many youtubers seem to have, but they are in the minority, the rest of us are just chimps dabbing away with paint...
That's the thing I find most frustrating about the GW hobby these days (besides the obsession, by many players, with the competitive meta) - if you believe what you see on the internet and social media in particular everyone weathers their vehicles (and other models), everyone is great at it, and if you can't achieve the same results it can leave you feeling like a mediocre modeller...
That is where deliberate practice comes in. As Uncle Atom has said, it is 85% technique and 15% artistic talent. Keep painting, you will surprise yourself.
just hang in there. I have friends and relatives who lament the same. I'll put 'er this way, the baseline, organic component of this hobby is community. Imagine if no ever threw a party or decorated their house because they weren't as the mavis-moguls that rule Y.T. or F.B.?! Just build, paint, play, repeat. My little brother kicks my ass every time, but he wants to paint like me. I tell him (and anyone) just add one skill or technique at a time. He really does build and paint better now than when we were kids (when we were kids, he painted sort of like... imagine dipping a couple of mice into your chosen colors, then throwing them and your models into a cookie jar, taping on the lid and kicking it down a hill - which I don't advocate because, perfectly good cookie jar.) Any way, now (20+ years later) he paints.... better. But he still whoops my ass. There are so many aspects to this hobby; painting is just one of them. No one will judge you poorly for sticking with it. If anyone does, sic Uncle Atom on 'em.
Adam strikes again. Friscet film. Check.
For your East facing cousins in the UK what would be the equivalent of this?
I think it's called the same thing. My local (Ireland) hobby shop has it.
Oh gosh I wish people airbrushing things like eyes was a myth, it would make me feel better. Unfortunately I have witnessed that level of detail and I may or may not hate him now. I don't but also I do.
I'd like to see a video about how to stop airbrushes getting a dry tip.
Flow aid will help with that
For shoulder pads I paint freehand, it's simpler than making stencils.
Love your videos and as someone fairly new to wargaming/Warhammer ive been picking second-hand bits up off eBay. Have you got any tips on stripping old acrylic paint off models? Is a sonic bath needed or can i do something else? I'm trying to keep costs low while i find what i want to focus on.
Cheers
He has a video called the pitfalls of stripping where he goes through four options of stripping paint. He uses simple green cleaner and some purple cleaner I think.
@@concoffey96 Thanks - ill see if i can find it
tamiya masking tape FTW
Is there any reason you couldn’t just print the design on to the non plastic side rather than trying to trace it?
inkjet: ink does not stick.
laser: heat would destroy the sheet.
@@naphaneal A die cutter like Circuit or Silhouette would probably work. Save a step for the low low price of $250!
There's also adjustable spray adhesive available. That would allow direct use of the print instead of having to transfer it. Best to print on cardstock because the paint will probably soak through regular copier paper. And be sure to test that the spray adhesive doesn't rip the paint of your model when you remove the stencil.
@@Alexander_Ruis I'd go for the Silhoutte. cleaner cuts. but that's an investment, if I was going pro.
god to know might give a try got get to ac more to get it see new when post new
-_- and here i was layering tape on both sides of a piece of paper and cutting a shape out of that...
Frisket film is (probably) way easier. Thanks for watching!
What mic are you using? You have that "I swallowed an RE20" DJ voice but you're clearly at least three feet away from whatever it is.
It’s a shotgun mic on a boom arm above me and it’s connected via XLR to a digital recorder. Then I sync up the audio to my camera in post. Thanks for watching!
why would you prime a ultramarine black just to base coat it blue. why not just prime it blue?
to have a more darker looking ultra smurf?
Stick it in a oven for 30 minutes @300f then it will look like a proper ultrasmurf 🤣🤣
Might not have blue primer, I suppose. I'd use blue primer, but different people like different things, I suppose. Thanks for watching!
Off topic but any chance for April fools can we have an episode about "granola bar" reviews.
You should start a Discord server, sir!
I have a Discord server for my upper tier Patreon supporters, Uncle Atom’s Irregulars. It’s a great community. Thanks for watching!
Does anyone hear the guy's voice in the Postal2 videogame?
I wish this could work for me, but my hands are so unsteady it can't cut in a straight line :(
thats why you cut using a metal ruler as a guide
And glue sandpaper to the bottom of the ruler so it doesn't slide
I cheated and I've ordered some vinyl stencils from Fallout Hobbies.
I own some of their stuff, I like it. Thanks for watching!
A tutorial would be nice🤘🏻
Googles how to make stencils for miniatures.
Clicks link.
Googles 'friskit film'.
It’s spelled ’frisket’ film, actually. Thanks for watching!
@@tabletopminions appreciated :)
Getting back into the hobby after 20 years away and have been devouring your content, which has enabled me to make confident purchasing decisions.
Now, back to days endlessly staring out the window waiting for the packages to arrive...
How does this work for a detail brush instead of a air brush?
Panzer putty
What? Not Black Templar with the maltese cross? Heresy it is then.
You're an excellent orator. You're videos are concise, thoughtful and honest. However you need to spend more time on how to. Use more physical models on a table facing us like Critical role only for showcasing how to Videos. Nice beard by the way.
I usually use either liquid latex masking fluid or blue tack to mask off tanks for camo patterns, but this might work perfectly for a sharper, blockier pattern like Berlin Brigade camo or dazzle patterns. I wonder how well my vinyl cutter would cut out those stencils... Darn you, Uncle Atom! Down another rabbit hole I go...
Or the Aztec pattern on the spaceship Enterprise