How often should a motor be changed? Thanksgiving 2012 our heat went off. You spoke of spinning the fan to check the motor, but did not say to change the capacitor if the fan needed a push. I was able to spin the fan and get heat, so your video saved our Thanksgiving . . . so thanks a ton. Today I changed the capacitor, and now it works perfect. Thanks for the video, and keep em coming!
Forget it , I found the proper set screw that holds the whole blower assy in and got it out fairly easy after all.. thanks,, good video.. already helped me , especially marking the belly bracket so the new motor won't bottom out.
much much thanks for putting this together. I always like to catch something like this on youtube before I attempt an undertaking, 9 times out of 10 there's something I didn't think about, or something where I grossly underestimated some complications and should just call someone. I really appreciate this.
I was trying to extract the motor for some heavy cleaning and oiling, but the blasted scrollcage wouldn't let go; I was already starting to fear I'd have to disassemble the whole casing but your tutorial assured me I was on the right path. Thanks to your tutorial, WD40 and some fine lubrication my HVAC is once again humming along practically soundlessly. THANKS!
I watched your video and another guys video on replacing blower motor, and was able to replace mine by myself without any problems. Go my new motor from Grainger, it wasn't the same brand but everything else was the same. Saved a lot of oney. Cost me $200 with capacitor instead of $600 if my furnace guy would have done it. And it works perfect. Just wanted to thank you all. Eve Ebel.
Thanks for the video, it was fantastic and inspired me to cancel my appointment with the hearing guy. Saved me $400 in labor costs! (he quoted $700 for new motor parts and labor)
Thank you very much. My 4 year old and I got stuck on removing the shaft from the fan blades. I was looking for WD 40 when I figured I'd teach him how to look up something if you didn't know. PERFECT video, showed me exactly what we needed to know. THANKS AGAIN!
Capacitors go bad all the time. It doesn't mean the motor is bad or going bad, just the life cycle of the capacitor, much like a battery, had reached it's limit. With the new cap the blower could last a week, or years, it's hard to say... Thanks for watching! I'm really thankful it made a difference. =-)
@VonDuross You can also get plastic cased run capacitors, most of the european stuff i work on like fan motors and pumps has plastic run caps, though metal cased ones are common on compressors.
@MagicPatrick1 By putting the jumper from R to G will possibly make the motor run in high speed. If it never shuts off prematurely, you could try either switching the speeds or replace the board or relay, whichever you have. This would depend on the outcome of the test. You'll need to read the scematic and identify the speeds noted by color. Red, black, or blue, white is normally common. Make sure you mark them down on paper incase it doesn't work.
note about capacitors, metal ones are run capacitors, plastic ones are start capacitors. you may use a run to replace a start, but not vice versa. also, make sure the one you get has the correct mF and voltage ratings.
I replaced my blower motor last night. What was strange was the old motor had four wires that went to the board, two brown ones going to the capacitor and four more wires just attached to each other. One of those was the orange medium-low wire. I assume this blower wasn't the one that came with the furnace. When I put the new motor in, I didn't know where to put the orange medium-low wire. I just taped it off and sealed that end, but certainly there's a spot on the board for this wire.
Thanks for sharing. How do you select a new capacitor to a new motor? Does the motor come with labeled specs that tell you which capacitor to use with it?
@MagicPatrick1 If you find these terminals, simply switch the heat/cool or heat, with a parked one. If you switch heat cool, beware your ac won't perform well and potentially ice up. But atleast you'll know it's the motor and not the board. If you switch these speeds and it does it again and you verify the loss of poer to the motor with a meter, you have a bad board. The internal fan relay on the heat side is bad., leaving R & G jumpered will get you through until you get a new one.
@MagicPatrick1 Just don't leave it like that! Your house will be very drafty and uncomfortable. You could do this with the thermostat up or down, doesn't matter. But it would be better if it wasn't calling for heat to listen for any strange noises. Another thing, the capacitor very well could be bad. Are you for certain you used the exact replacement? 5-7.5-10-15 uf might seem close enough, but interchanged would cause the motor to over heat aswell. The 370-440 is ok, only if going up^ in #
@MagicPatrick1 On the board will be terminals that the blower wires go to. Heat, cool, and park or stop. The park is designated for unused speeds. These maybe medium high, or medium low. All of this is presuming you don't have a variable speed motor. If it is, you'll need to call a reputable repair person who has the correct test equipment. For example Carrier has a module that plugs into the Motor control for diagnosis.
@tenshindojocho Motors do tend to be hot to the touch, but not quite 'fry an egg' type of hot. Some I've seen go bad and actually go in reverse but still run. You'd need a meter to test the power to the motor. Perhaps the board is dropping out, or a bad relay! Sticky valve, I'm not too familiar with that term. If you do have a board, an easy way to test is 1. Turn the power off, and 2. place a jumper between R and G on the low voltage terminals. This will make the motor run 24-7, 365
hi, very good video. My neighbour took HVAC blower apart, put it back together and now it is rotating in the opposite direction. I do not see the plug you are talking about for a reversal of the rotation. Do you know how I can switch to the correct rotation? My motor blower looks almost identical to the one you have in your video.
@ekolamagic Is it a rescue motor? 9 times out of 10 there is just 2 short piggy back wires, usually yellow and orange connected by insulated spade connectors. If it goes yellow to yellow, orange to orange, just switch both to yellow to orange and it should change direction, Don't keep running it, unless it's going the right direction. The amperage will fry the new motor. Sad to say, but it probably says how on the data plate...
@mrsexx1 On both ends of the motor should be a yellow, white, or red plastic plug. If you find the plug, shoot some 3-In-1 sewing machine oil down in there. If you can't find the plugs, look for a hole saying Oil> Some don't have an oiling port at all
QUESTION for Mr. Patrick - Blower motor would not kick in today. Had not run since yesterday. Unit is in a standard furnace closet (TINY & restricted). While feeling around for a reset The motor was VERY HOT! Several hours later I watched your video and while documenting troubleshooting steps I found the motor does intermittently kick on and work. Would a BAD capacitor
I have a 1988 carrier furnace and when the blower starts it makes a loud noise at startup but don't make any noise when shutting down. can you let me know if you think it need oil or i need to replace something.
I think you misunderstood me.I checked for power going to each lead (black and red) separately. I jumped the Red signal wire to the G going to the motor.Is there anyway to check the board ? Before I opened, I thought I was going to see a regular fan relay. To my surprise it was an ECM and control board.I'm not familiar with those new stuff or the board.
Hi, great vid, lots of information, thanks! I only have one question.. when jumping the R and G connections, this can only be tested with the HEAT, and not the A/C? I replaced the entire circuit board on my furnace, now I think the prob is the blower. Test the R/G jump only with the heat? Thanks for any help, please keep the vids coming!
Depends on rotation, HP, and rpms really. Yea some are the same, when all else fails, check with Granger? If you have a catalog helps. But yea there's many variables. Like don't use an open motor in applications it maybe contaminated. Same with an enclosed/sealed motor if it's not designed for it, likely it will fail prematurely. But the short answer is no, every motor application is different and always best to consult the manufaturer for exact replacement parts/dealers. Good Luck!
I have a blower motor that gets very hot. To hot to touch. The furnace goes on , then the blower and after about 5 or 10 minutes the blower stops. The furnace then stops as well and then everything repeats. IS the motor going bad?? I replaced the capacitor about a year ago because it went bad. I think I may need a new motor. Also when the blower stops the red light blinks 5X the panel says this indicates a sticky valve. Not sure of what to do. Any suggestions?? Thank you for your time
I have a Goodman 5 ton heat pump with an inoperable ecm indoor blower. I've jumped the R to G, it has power on the red and black leads going to the motor.I've ohmed out the motor. I noticed I'm only getting about 13 volts on the G terminal, but 26 on the R. I'm hoping it's not the motor but maybe the board.Oh, I even jumped the G from the motor to the R (26volts) but still nothing.Any suggestions ? Thanks!
my furnace pilot light is lit..when i turn the thermostat up to say 75 it clicks which is normal.and 3 min later the heats starts to blow out of my vents no problem..but my problem is when i turn the thermo up to whatever 80 or something like that ..it clicks and 3 min later the furnace clicks as well and makes like a buzzing sound for about a good minute ..it sounds like it turns over but its not blowing any heat out my house vents for heat...What do you think needs to be replaced..dontknomuch
I have a blower motor that gets very hot. To hot to touch. The furnace goes on , then the blower and after about 5 or 10 minutes the blower stops. The furnace then stops as well and then everything repeats. IS the motor going bad?? I replaced the capacitor about a year ago because it went bad. I think I may need a new motor. Also when the blower stops the red light blinks 5X the panel says this indicates a sticky valve. Not sure of what to do. Any suggestions ??
@PutSome5tankOnIt Yeah! I guess the same applies to almost any motor or compressor change out. 9 Times out of 10 the starting components are exactly the same for the replacement, so it's always worth a shot.
Check for power to the motor, maybe an open winding or seized up. If seized there maybe a thermal safety that should automatically reset after it cools off.
@hwhhww I'd say no more than 1/8th of an inch. Which isn't very much. If it's more than that, or hear a soda can type sound, the bearings/hub are probably severely worn. A motor will still run like that. Just wobble and create noise. If left that way, it may cause the wheel to hit the housing.
bad capacitor cause the motor to heat up when not in use? Or do you think the motor is the place to start? Unit is at least 20yrs old & we 've been here 10 so everything is at least that old.
I have an older furnace which doesn't come with a panel board. The blower motor has 6 wires, a brown with white stripe, a plane brown, a yellow, red, blue, and black. I know the two brown's go into my capacitor which, which came with the motor, but not so sure about the rest, i know that i need to use two of them but would like it if you could tell me which to use. Plz Help
Red AND Black you say? Usually that's 2 different speeds, if that's the case it might have smoked the motor. But the board could cause this, but rare. Usually the relay burns up on the board, but very seldom take the motor out. Double check your wiring and try testing the motor seperately. I've wired in a plug to just feed off a heavy duty extension cord for temporary fixes. But I'd not suggest it to a novice, All the ansewrs are in the wiring diagram. Good luck!
Hi, I have an old style "Friedrich" brand furnace, need to get the blower assy out so I can replace fan motor (inside house unit). , DO you know how to get the whole assy out ? I am seeing something like 2 screws on each side of where the blower assy bolts to the furnace unit, but the ones in the back and bottom are not reachable at all, is there something I'm not seeing here, thaniks, inventpeace aol thanks email
the lite on my board blinks 4 times. I replaced the limit switch. blower still does not come on and i still get4 blinks from the board. where would I find aux limit switch? what can I do to fix furnace?
@MagicPatrick1 If all this seems highly technical, and or don't undertand it. PLEASE DONT TRY IT. If you do have a vast knowledge of electricity and wiring, you could bypass the board all together with a simple relay. So that if W (Heat) calls, it will power the fan with no delay. Placing a jumper between W and G wont work, because if your ac calls, the heat will come on. Or if someone turns the fan into the on position at the tsat. Assuming, you have ac, and that type of setup.
I have a capacitor that hooks on the side of the blower, on the other side their is another little thing that goes down in the blower but is screwed from the outside, what's that called
Yea sounds like a bad motor, or 'start winding'. Very common aside from seizing up. To get by you could wire it hot all the time, letting it run 24-7 after you spin it. Or just replace the motor.
When a motor starts it just needs a little extra 'OOmffff'. It gets that from the reserve voltage stored in the capacitor. It's kinda like a battery? But not really. Yea all of the information should be on the data plate. Your best option is take the motor with you to the supply house, or wherever your buying it. If it's an OEM motor, they may need to cross reference it to a more common universal replacement type.
My blower and fan are supposed to blow in the same direction as the one in the video. The blower and motor are facing the correct direction, yet when I turn my system on, the motor turns counter clockwise. How can I get it to turn clockwise?
If a blower motor on a packaged unit (a/c only), for a single wide mobile home, 12' x 60' ohms checked at C-R: 24.8; C-S: 80.9; S-R: 105.7 (no short-to-ground), and the evap coil were clean (no return air blockage) & the blower motor housing and squirrel cage were also clean, does this ohms check guarantee the motor is strong enough for sufficient air flow, not from floor vents, but from supply outlet of package unit? Motor is 208/230v, ? HP (not on motor label), 2.0 A, 1000 RPM.
the motor has a wiring diagram on it. that should tell u. cooling--uses high speed Wire. heating--- uses low speed. some wires are not used on the motor. if it's 115 volt thier should be a white wire. thats the neutral wire.
do not use a chemical to clean the motor to find the tag. it will rub off the information. just use warm soapy water, a towel and clean carefuly. maybe wd-40 , but test tag so it does not remove the printing.
Doesn't anyone use oil??? Remember match the voltage and use at least a motor with the same or higher amperage rateing. Don't use a crescent wrench use a service wrench (square). Capacitor needs to match new motor requirements. Tape off all wires not used (SEPERATELY). I just run everything on high speed. Note: Aux limit is often on the blower housing.
How often should a motor be changed? Thanksgiving 2012 our heat went off. You spoke of spinning the fan to check the motor, but did not say to change the capacitor if the fan needed a push. I was able to spin the fan and get heat, so your video saved our Thanksgiving . . . so thanks a ton. Today I changed the capacitor, and now it works perfect. Thanks for the video, and keep em coming!
Thanks for the video. I just replaced the motor myself and saved a ton of money.
Forget it , I found the proper set screw that holds the whole blower assy in and got it out fairly easy after all.. thanks,, good video.. already helped me , especially marking the belly bracket so the new motor won't bottom out.
much much thanks for putting this together. I always like to catch something like this on youtube before I attempt an undertaking, 9 times out of 10 there's something I didn't think about, or something where I grossly underestimated some complications and should just call someone. I really appreciate this.
I was trying to extract the motor for some heavy cleaning and oiling, but the blasted scrollcage wouldn't let go; I was already starting to fear I'd have to disassemble the whole casing but your tutorial assured me I was on the right path. Thanks to your tutorial, WD40 and some fine lubrication my HVAC is once again humming along practically soundlessly. THANKS!
Sometimes the board will say Park or spare, this is that extra terminal. Many do not however. I'm glad to hear you got it up and running again!
I watched your video and another guys video on replacing blower motor, and was able to replace mine by myself without any problems. Go my new motor from Grainger, it wasn't the same brand but everything else was the same. Saved a lot of oney. Cost me $200 with capacitor instead of $600 if my furnace guy would have done it. And it works perfect. Just wanted to thank you all. Eve Ebel.
Thanks for the video, it was fantastic and inspired me to cancel my appointment with the hearing guy. Saved me $400 in labor costs! (he quoted $700 for new motor parts and labor)
Thank you very much. My 4 year old and I got stuck on removing the shaft from the fan blades. I was looking for WD 40 when I figured I'd teach him how to look up something if you didn't know. PERFECT video, showed me exactly what we needed to know. THANKS AGAIN!
Capacitors go bad all the time. It doesn't mean the motor is bad or going bad, just the life cycle of the capacitor, much like a battery, had reached it's limit. With the new cap the blower could last a week, or years, it's hard to say... Thanks for watching! I'm really thankful it made a difference. =-)
SQUIRREL CAGE! Awesome! I haven't heard anybody call it that in decades!
thanks, great video. now i feel more confident to change it my self.
@VonDuross You can also get plastic cased run capacitors, most of the european stuff i work on like fan motors and pumps has plastic run caps, though metal cased ones are common on compressors.
@MagicPatrick1 By putting the jumper from R to G will possibly make the motor run in high speed. If it never shuts off prematurely, you could try either switching the speeds or replace the board or relay, whichever you have. This would depend on the outcome of the test. You'll need to read the scematic and identify the speeds noted by color. Red, black, or blue, white is normally common. Make sure you mark them down on paper incase it doesn't work.
Great tips Don!
note about capacitors, metal ones are run capacitors, plastic ones are start capacitors. you may use a run to replace a start, but not vice versa. also, make sure the one you get has the correct mF and voltage ratings.
I replaced my blower motor last night. What was strange was the old motor had four wires that went to the board, two brown ones going to the capacitor and four more wires just attached to each other. One of those was the orange medium-low wire. I assume this blower wasn't the one that came with the furnace. When I put the new motor in, I didn't know where to put the orange medium-low wire. I just taped it off and sealed that end, but certainly there's a spot on the board for this wire.
Thanks for sharing. How do you select a new capacitor to a new motor? Does the motor come with labeled specs that tell you which capacitor to use with it?
Thank you for the video. Good stuff
@MagicPatrick1 If you find these terminals, simply switch the heat/cool or heat, with a parked one. If you switch heat cool, beware your ac won't perform well and potentially ice up. But atleast you'll know it's the motor and not the board. If you switch these speeds and it does it again and you verify the loss of poer to the motor with a meter, you have a bad board. The internal fan relay on the heat side is bad., leaving R & G jumpered will get you through until you get a new one.
@MagicPatrick1 Just don't leave it like that! Your house will be very drafty and uncomfortable. You could do this with the thermostat up or down, doesn't matter. But it would be better if it wasn't calling for heat to listen for any strange noises.
Another thing, the capacitor very well could be bad. Are you for certain you used the exact replacement? 5-7.5-10-15 uf might seem close enough, but interchanged would cause the motor to over heat aswell. The 370-440 is ok, only if going up^ in #
@MagicPatrick1 On the board will be terminals that the blower wires go to. Heat, cool, and park or stop. The park is designated for unused speeds. These maybe medium high, or medium low. All of this is presuming you don't have a variable speed motor. If it is, you'll need to call a reputable repair person who has the correct test equipment. For example Carrier has a module that plugs into the Motor control for diagnosis.
Thanks for making this video.
@tenshindojocho Motors do tend to be hot to the touch, but not quite 'fry an egg' type of hot.
Some I've seen go bad and actually go in reverse but still run. You'd need a meter to test the power to the motor. Perhaps the board is dropping out, or a bad relay! Sticky valve, I'm not too familiar with that term. If you do have a board, an easy way to test is 1. Turn the power off, and 2. place a jumper between R and G on the low voltage terminals. This will make the motor run 24-7, 365
hi, very good video. My neighbour took HVAC blower apart, put it back together and now it is rotating in the opposite direction. I do not see the plug you are talking about for a reversal of the rotation. Do you know how I can switch to the correct rotation? My motor blower looks almost identical to the one you have in your video.
@ekolamagic Is it a rescue motor? 9 times out of 10 there is just 2 short piggy back wires, usually yellow and orange connected by insulated spade connectors. If it goes yellow to yellow, orange to orange, just switch both to yellow to orange and it should change direction, Don't keep running it, unless it's going the right direction. The amperage will fry the new motor. Sad to say, but it probably says how on the data plate...
@mrsexx1 On both ends of the motor should be a yellow, white, or red plastic plug. If you find the plug, shoot some 3-In-1 sewing machine oil down in there. If you can't find the plugs, look for a hole saying Oil>
Some don't have an oiling port at all
QUESTION for Mr. Patrick - Blower motor would not kick in today. Had not run since yesterday. Unit is in a standard furnace closet (TINY & restricted). While feeling around for a reset The motor was VERY HOT! Several hours later I watched your video and while documenting troubleshooting steps I found the motor does intermittently kick on and work. Would a BAD capacitor
Does the wheel need to be balanced after install? Also, I have a 3 speed motor - should I run it at medium or high?
I have a 1988 carrier furnace and when the blower starts it makes a loud noise at startup but don't make any noise when shutting down. can you let me know if you think it need oil or i need to replace something.
I think you misunderstood me.I checked for power going to each lead (black and red) separately. I jumped the Red signal wire to the G going to the motor.Is there anyway to check the board ? Before I opened, I thought I was going to see a regular fan relay. To my surprise it was an ECM and control board.I'm not familiar with those new stuff or the board.
Hi, great vid, lots of information, thanks! I only have one question.. when jumping the R and G connections, this can only be tested with the HEAT, and not the A/C? I replaced the entire circuit board on my furnace, now I think the prob is the blower. Test the R/G jump only with the heat? Thanks for any help, please keep the vids coming!
Great video. My motor seems to work, but the whole wheel assembly shakes "out of balance". Do still replace the motor?
Depends on rotation, HP, and rpms really. Yea some are the same, when all else fails, check with Granger? If you have a catalog helps. But yea there's many variables. Like don't use an open motor in applications it maybe contaminated. Same with an enclosed/sealed motor if it's not designed for it, likely it will fail prematurely. But the short answer is no, every motor application is different and always best to consult the manufaturer for exact replacement parts/dealers. Good Luck!
I have a blower motor that gets very hot. To hot to touch. The furnace goes on , then the blower and after about 5 or 10 minutes the blower stops. The furnace then stops as well and then everything repeats. IS the motor going bad?? I replaced the capacitor about a year ago because it went bad. I think I may need a new motor. Also when the blower stops the red light blinks 5X the panel says this indicates a sticky valve. Not sure of what to do. Any suggestions?? Thank you for your time
On the set screws, I use an 8 point socket and a breaker bar.
I have a Goodman 5 ton heat pump with an inoperable ecm indoor blower. I've jumped the R to G, it has power on the red and black leads going to the motor.I've ohmed out the motor. I noticed I'm only getting about 13 volts on the G terminal, but 26 on the R. I'm hoping it's not the motor but maybe the board.Oh, I even jumped the G from the motor to the R (26volts) but still nothing.Any suggestions ? Thanks!
my furnace pilot light is lit..when i turn the thermostat up to say 75 it clicks which is normal.and 3 min later the heats starts to blow out of my vents no problem..but my problem is when i turn the thermo up to whatever 80 or something like that ..it clicks and 3 min later the furnace clicks as well and makes like a buzzing sound for about a good minute ..it sounds like it turns over but its not blowing any heat out my house vents for heat...What do you think needs to be replaced..dontknomuch
I have a blower motor that gets very hot. To hot to touch. The furnace goes on , then the blower and after about 5 or 10 minutes the blower stops. The furnace then stops as well and then everything repeats. IS the motor going bad?? I replaced the capacitor about a year ago because it went bad. I think I may need a new motor. Also when the blower stops the red light blinks 5X the panel says this indicates a sticky valve. Not sure of what to do. Any suggestions ??
@PutSome5tankOnIt Yeah! I guess the same applies to almost any motor or compressor change out. 9 Times out of 10 the starting components are exactly the same for the replacement, so it's always worth a shot.
Check for power to the motor, maybe an open winding or seized up. If seized there maybe a thermal safety that should automatically reset after it cools off.
The blower moter hums and doesn't turn?
Do I need to replace it?
It's an Emerson moter. Model # K55HXKSS-9777
Good help,thank you sir
nice job...excellent
@hwhhww I'd say no more than 1/8th of an inch. Which isn't very much. If it's more than that, or hear a soda can type sound, the bearings/hub are probably severely worn. A motor will still run like that. Just wobble and create noise. If left that way, it may cause the wheel to hit the housing.
is it cycling on limit?
That cold be a number of problems. First off, is it a 2 stage furnace?
@dstoltz100 No the wheel shouldn't need balanced. If it's bent however it will rattle like mad. For hot air/heat, medium should be fine.
bad capacitor cause the motor to heat up when not in use? Or do you think the motor is the place to start? Unit is at least 20yrs old & we 've been here 10 so everything is at least that old.
I have an older furnace which doesn't come with a panel board. The blower motor has 6 wires, a brown with white stripe, a plane brown, a yellow, red, blue, and black. I know the two brown's go into my capacitor which, which came with the motor, but not so sure about the rest, i know that i need to use two of them but would like it if you could tell me which to use. Plz Help
Question?what about chiler or ac & hood blower motor,are they the same ? Help
Thank you!
I have an x13 ecm that doesn't have a reverse plug. How do i reverse rotation on it
@DOLRED Your welcome, thanks for watching
What happens when the 3 bolts securing the motor to the housing wont come out because the brass threaded bushings in the blower housing just spin?
I dropped a small screw driver down through the evaporator. Could it have fallen into the blower motor?
Red AND Black you say? Usually that's 2 different speeds, if that's the case it might have smoked the motor. But the board could cause this, but rare. Usually the relay burns up on the board, but very seldom take the motor out. Double check your wiring and try testing the motor seperately. I've wired in a plug to just feed off a heavy duty extension cord for temporary fixes. But I'd not suggest it to a novice, All the ansewrs are in the wiring diagram. Good luck!
Hi, I have an old style "Friedrich" brand furnace, need to get the blower assy out so I can replace fan motor (inside house unit). , DO you know how to get the whole assy out ? I am seeing something like 2 screws on each side of where the blower assy bolts to the furnace unit, but the ones in the back and bottom are not reachable at all, is there something I'm not seeing here, thaniks, inventpeace aol thanks email
the lite on my board blinks 4 times. I replaced the limit switch. blower still does not come on and i still get4 blinks from the board. where would I find aux limit switch? what can I do to fix furnace?
@MagicPatrick1 If all this seems highly technical, and or don't undertand it. PLEASE DONT TRY IT.
If you do have a vast knowledge of electricity and wiring, you could bypass the board all together with a simple relay. So that if W (Heat) calls, it will power the fan with no delay. Placing a jumper between W and G wont work, because if your ac calls, the heat will come on. Or if someone turns the fan into the on position at the tsat. Assuming, you have ac, and that type of setup.
very good video my friend
I have a capacitor that hooks on the side of the blower, on the other side their is another little thing that goes down in the blower but is screwed from the outside, what's that called
@jhitlall maybe the capacitor or start windings
Yea sounds like a bad motor, or 'start winding'. Very common aside from seizing up. To get by you could wire it hot all the time, letting it run 24-7 after you spin it. Or just replace the motor.
When a motor starts it just needs a little extra 'OOmffff'. It gets that from the reserve voltage stored in the capacitor. It's kinda like a battery? But not really.
Yea all of the information should be on the data plate. Your best option is take the motor with you to the supply house, or wherever your buying it. If it's an OEM motor, they may need to cross reference it to a more common universal replacement type.
My blower and fan are supposed to blow in the same direction as the one in the video. The blower and motor are facing the correct direction, yet when I turn my system on, the motor turns counter clockwise. How can I get it to turn clockwise?
Roger Villa 7:12 ???
If a blower motor on a packaged unit (a/c only), for a single wide mobile home, 12' x 60' ohms checked at C-R: 24.8; C-S: 80.9; S-R: 105.7 (no short-to-ground), and the evap coil were clean (no return air blockage) & the blower motor housing and squirrel cage were also clean, does this ohms check guarantee the motor is strong enough for sufficient air flow, not from floor vents, but from supply outlet of package unit? Motor is 208/230v, ? HP (not on motor label), 2.0 A, 1000 RPM.
the motor has a wiring diagram on it. that should tell u.
cooling--uses high speed Wire.
heating--- uses low speed.
some wires are not used on the motor.
if it's 115 volt thier should be a white wire. thats the neutral wire.
what if i replace the motor it works perfect but it doesnt turn of ...i turn of the the thermostat but the motor keeps running
I already have a video on checking those ECMs, but not the board and don't want to take it out if I don't have to.
Good
You don't show the slightly-costly puller that makes life worth living. 😉
What if the capacitor is new but the fan doesn't spin then what?
do not use a chemical to clean the motor to find the tag. it will rub off the information. just use warm soapy water, a towel and clean carefuly. maybe wd-40 , but test tag so it does not remove the printing.
Thanks for the replay. Rotation of the wires did not help. Calling for a repairman.
Doesn't anyone use oil??? Remember match the voltage and use at least a motor with the same or higher amperage rateing. Don't use a crescent wrench use a service wrench (square). Capacitor needs to match new motor requirements. Tape off all wires not used (SEPERATELY). I just run everything on high speed. Note: Aux limit is often on the blower housing.
There are no relays or anything with moving parts on the board; It's 100% solid state.
CARL SPACKLER!!
u did show u beating it out off the cage
quistion after i get A CUP OF DIRTY WATER WHAT DO I DO WITH IT I MISSED THAT PART
@3hav3n Any local HVAC supply house
it is a plain white wire instead of yellow
By "UF" you mean μF which is a micro-farad.
it's on the wiring diagram
120 volts and 240 volts.
red is low speed= heating, black is high speed=a/c, Blue is medium speed I can't remember what is
very possible you have a bad capacitor!
Why mark the motor, chances are someone has bought a rescue motor, and isnt the same same size, as the OEM lol. My gosh
yea, how bout' it! lol
SEAN WATCH THIS
*heating guy