Our Inverter Mini Split Resources: Mini Split Book on Our Website- www.acservicetech.com/mini-split-book Mini Split Paperback on Amazon- amzn.to/3ytHJSs Mini Split Paperback on TruTech Tools- www.trutechtools.com/BooksGuides?aff=8 Mini Split E-Book on Google- play.google.com/store/books/details?id=HN-iEAAAQBAJ Mini Split E-Book on Apple- books.apple.com/us/book/id6445178399 Our Single Speed and Two Speed Air Conditioning Resources: My Paperback and E-Book: www.acservicetech.com/the-book My Paperback: www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech Read the book reviews on Amazon! Check out our new Articles at www.acservicetech.com/articles Support the Channel: www.patreon.com/acservicetech Tool List: www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech Check out our HVAC Calculators at www.acservicetech.com/hvac-calculators Try our new Quizzes! www.acservicetech.com/quizzes Check out our Podcast! www.acservicetech.com/podcast Follow us on Facebook! facebook.com/acservicetech Follow us on Instagram! instagram.com/acservicetech Support the Channel by purchasing tools through Tru Tech Tools! Use this link www.trutechtools.com/?AffId=43 Save 8% at checkout using code "acservicetech" Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech Support- www.patreon.com/acservicetech For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below) Here is the Link for the newer UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor- amzn.to/2jtsUbJ Here is the Link for the newer UEI DL 469 Multimeter- amzn.to/2jw4ePJ Here is a link to the UEI DL389 Multimeter used in this video- amzn.to/2av8s3q Here is the Link for the Yellow Jacket Refrigerant Manifold Gauge Set used in the videos- amzn.to/2aenwTq Here is a link to Refrigerant hoses with valves used in the videos- amzn.to/2aBumVI Here is the link to the Fieldpiece ST4 Dual Temp Meter- amzn.to/2wc1ME3 Here is a link to the Digital Refrigerant Scale used in the videos- amzn.to/2b9oXYl Here is a link to the Imperial 535-C Kwik Charge Vaporizer for Charging Refrigerant- amzn.to/2wFHtBW Here is a link for RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector amzn.to/2ckWACn Other tool links can be found in the video description section. ACSERVICETECH is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon. Check out other videos on the HVACR topics of interest at- th-cam.com/channels/OZR-1IqsAer9wzlvFgb4mA.htmlplaylists?view_as=public
I need. Help!! I replaced my capacitor still the fan isn't coming on...is it ny fab motor or if the capactior on top of the fab blower is blown would i need to replace it before replacing fan motor?
Great Video. Recently purchased blower motor and capacitor to install myself because I did not know how to test! You covered it all. Apparently it is just my capacitor that went bad but the motor had a funny burned smell. Debating if I should uninstall the new and return. Repair Clinic is the best. Thanks again acservicetech.
What happens in a blower motor when the cap is bad is that the internal overload will cut out the start winding but over time that could fail. While the internal overload is still allowing power in the windings can melt which is what you are likely smelling. Thanks for the comment!
checked resistance on the motor and all is good. checked the capacitor and all is good...no blower at all. Changed control module and also the limiter prior to checking above....any thoughts?
Hey Jim, are you talking about the limiter as the thermal overload built into the windings inside the motor or a fan limit control outside the motor? I am guessing you mean a fan limit control. It is possible that the thermal overload is opening when you are applying power to the motor on the common wire in the motor winding and then when this wire is being tested after it has had a chance to cool down. I could also be a bad or cracked rotor. Either way, if you are getting power to a psc blower motor when it is supposed to and the capacitor is good, then you should replace this motor. There is nothing inside the motor to service at the winding or rotor level if it does not start. Thanks for the question!
Thanks for this video! I have a 2002 Bryant Plus 90T furnace that was igniting but then shortly thereafter shutting off, and giving me a code 13. I suspected there may be something wrong with the blower motor as it seemed to run at much slower than normal speed when I switched to fan only at the thermostat. I use this function a lot during the summer months to circulate air in the house so I know how fast it usually runs. After other troubleshooting suggestions were followed, my problem was a faulty motor run capacitor, found thanks to this video. I was able to find a matching replacement at Grainger for $5. Cheap fix! Furnace is now operating properly.
Thank you, very informative info here. I don't have any problems yet, just browsing to update my (mental) knowledge database! I'm electronically, electrically and mechanically inclined and the type who will attempt anything, but I know my limits. I did subscribe to your channel, so I have lots of watching to do! Thank you!
verry helpfull and straightforward video, thank you. i was actually trying to figure out what wire did what on a used blower im using for a different application (shop ventilation) so the simple test was verry helpfull
acservicetech That is so peaceful and eye pleasing to tell you the truth I suspected it was a view that you often see and this confirms it ! I too took a similar picture one snowy day in my backyard where my tools and HVAC equipments shed is
Whenever an OEM Chinese made motor ( Zhongshen motor ) like this goes I then put a GE or an Emerson with a separate four brackets belly band ! I had one motor like this that kept pushing its stator and shaft right through the plastic end cap that is on the bottom of the shaft/ motor for its application ( horizontal To the right install up in the attic ) not once but twice in 3 years !!! Put in an Emerson 3/4 HP and that was the end of the problem ! Thanks for the post
Completely took mine out because parts place told me tey had one that fit but didn't . It was universal but cheap $75 and in stock so i decided to try . Unfortunately not ,holes and bracket didn't ssem to align . Been verry hot today in south Tx . Five days without AC
Your videos are incredible. I recently had an HVAC house call because the 115v wires in my air handler's juction box had fried out. The technician reconnected the wires and the air handler fan worked again! Yay! I figured I must have had an energy surge from a lightning strike in the area, but when he tested the AMP draw from the motor he quickly shut off the unit and said "WHOA! That's drawing nearly 7 AMPS! You need a new blower motor! This is unsafe!" Later, I noticed the sticker on the motor says 9.35 AMP! !! Plus, the fan spins smoothly and freely. Is he just trying to sell me a new blower motor? Or is that truly an alarming AMP draw?
Great video. It refreshed my memory from class. I will visit this site again if I have any questions. Keep up the good work. I am just starting out in the field of HVAC and hope to work for a company soon. Again good video. I am currently changing out a blower motor in my son's unit. The motor would start but soon quit. There is some play in the shaft. I am thinking that the bearings are bad. I am going to replace the motor.
Getting no fan after some condensate build up caused an error code. Cleaned out the tubing and cleared the error codes. No fan and no voltage at the terminals when I tried heat mode. Bad board? Gave pressure sensor error in heat mode. AC mode gave (20,26,59) twinning error, reverse neutral, and condensate errors. Wiring never changed and it’s a newer system that has been running for four years. Outside unit works fine. Any help is appreciated, thanks for the informative videos!
Hello, great content! Had a question when troubleshooting (a non functioned blower/wont turn on)...When using the multimeter, can I take blower out/disconnect? With my horizontal Trane, I cannot access anything. Plus very hot up in attic. I removed to clean it, but looks in good shape (GE blower) already tried replacing capacitors and cleaned the outside unit coils and filter. Thanks!
I have an old blower motor and capacitor. After the AC has been running for a good 90 minutes the motors rpm slows down about 50%. Shut things down a bit and rpms pick back up to normal. Think it could be a failing run capacitor?
I installed new motor and everything connected properly, but my furnace blower motor runs slow and my heater turns of after 15 minutes or so. Capacitor is new as well????? Need help
Reman ECM X13 motor new replacement stopped working shortly after installation. On old motor all taps were dead, windings were fine, ECM Failure. 220-240V Line Voltages, grounds and low voltage call signal (29v) to common measured at motor seem ok. Any suggestions? Didn't have time to check other taps on new motor.
Pretty sure my motor is bad even though I'm getting the various ohms for each speed. Another TH-camr confirmed that you can have good readings, but still have a bad motor. We smelled some odd burning smell a few months ago, so I think for some reason the motor overheated. The fan blades spin quietly and smoothly by hand, and there's no play in the bearing. It works now for 5 minutes, but then the motor shuts off. Any thoughts?
I know how to ohm out the motor and check for grounding. when I total my resistance readings, how much difference can the motor have before you condemn it?
One of your great articles led me here and helped me avoid changing my control board. It turns out it was my thermostat face so thank you! A couple of questions, can the 24-28volt test be done from the thermostat wires or does it have to be from the control board? I didn't get to test mine because it was raining so I just swapped it with a programmable one since I needed the upgrade and was lucky this time. The heat worked but not fan only or a/c. Does that mean if I had tested it at control board with the fan or a/c mode, it wouldn't have registered the proper voltage? Also when the blower cap blew the motor came to a grinding halt and yet spins freely, how is that possible?
What a helpful video. Thank you for sharing it. I have a split a/c system (heat pump) and the air handler blower sometimes does not start and the whole system freezes within 2 minutes. I turn the system off for some 5 minutes, start again and works normally again. This can happen 2 or 3 times a month, specially during the summer humid and rainy months of the year. I also have noticed a couple of times that when the a/c system starts, my TV turns off and on momentarily, just like a sudden electric power demand happened. Could this be a bad capacitor?
Furnace keeps tripping the breaker. I believe I narrowed it down to when it starts up. Might trip once a week or so. Starting to happen more often. Already checked return and delivery and are clear. Would this same testing be applicable for diagnosing if my motor/capacitor is on the way out?
What if the readings are higher....but incrementally different IE...4.6....12.9....48.9 & 103......would the motor still work?? No windings are grounded....
Hi, I am checking my HVAC and the blower motor has four wires - black, brown, blue and green. There are two capacitors for the fan. ( and a separate one for the compressor) When I tested the wiring with the multimeter, there is reading when I connect black and brown. When I test blue with all other wires, there is nothing at all. I saw most motor has a white wire but mine doesn't have one. Can you help please. Capacitors are all good but the HVAC won't start up.
Is this a packaged unit outside? That would be 240v. Normally the wiring diagram is on the side of the blower motor and also the wiring diagram is on the inside shroud of the packaged unit. What does the unit say each of the wires are labeled as?
I have a one-speed blower motor that doesn't use a capacitor, it had continuity between both wires not sure if that was a good thing or bad thing, it still ran but it smelled burnt
*How would you test the blower motor start winding?* I have tested all of the speed wires to common and the capacitor wires to common. Black, high speed, cool - 3.2 Ω. Blue, med high speed, heat - 4.5 Ω. Yellow, med low speed, park - 5.8 Ω. Red, low speed, park - 9.3 Ω. 1st capacitor wire, brown - 9.3 Ω. 2nd capacitor wire, brown - 39.4 Ω So speed wire resistance readings are good. (I'm not positive abt the capacitor wires?) The capacitor itself was not in spec, so replaced it. Still fan does not kick on. Makes same loud, awful buzz noise. Fan spins freely when pushed by hand. Tested new capacitor, just to be sure. It is good.
My blower fan comes on fine with the ac or if I manually put it on. If I turn on the heater furnace the blower motor will only hum and no start. The capacitor checked good. Does this mean the fan is week and cannot work on the slower speed the furnace requires?
GEEZ , the guy helping me at AC place their place not open today or tomorrow AND I need to ask him again something . He said on blower motor if I disconect the cool terminal wire on circuit board and connect the bottom black wire to cool terminal that ( this is what I'm not sure what he said and needed to talk to him ) if it works ( or doesn't ) that means board is bad NOT the motor ?? OR is it the other way around ?? And yes replaced capacitor . Still the same barely running the blower not full speed and shuts down after a while with new capacito
How can you diagnose a failing but intermittently working blower motor? When you check amp reading of motor what should be the range of amp draw relative to name plate of motor? If name plate indicates 8.0 A and if you read 8.5A does this mean the motor over drawing? Do you also recommend using megaohm meters to figure out such problems? Or checking static pressure and confirming it with manufacturer's airflow vs static pressure charts?
Are you talking about intermittent blower motors that are ecm or psc? Are they having a problem not starting or shutting off during the middle of operation due to overheating or another reason? thanks!
Thank you for the the video. Quick question my old capacitor has 2 terminals. I cant find the exact replacment to it. The ones i am looking at have 4 terminals, like the one in your videos. Do i just plug the wires in any terminal? Hope that mafe sense
It won't matter if the cap has two or four tabs on each connection site as long as they are all connected together at that site. Make sure the cap voltage is the same or higher and the mfd or uF is the exact same as what the old one was as it states on the rating plate on the side of the motor, thanks Gamie!
I lost track which one goes where on the capacitor they both the same color and same connection type. Does it matter what side? My capacitor has only 2 sides but has 4 prong per side. Your help will be appreciated!!!
If it is just a single capacitor with two taps then it does not matter. One on one side of the run cap and one on the other side. 4 prongs are just connected to each tap. Make sure that you have the wires going to the cap by looking at the wiring diagram, thanks
thank you for another great video. this is considered a 5 speed motor because of the 5 different speed taps. so what is a SINGLE speed furnace blower? is there such a thing because don't you need one speed for heat and one for cool? can you please help me to distinguish between single speed blower and multiple speed blower? thanks.
Older furnaces only came with a single speed blower which was either a shaded pole or a psc because they weren't designed for cooling as well. When installing cooling, a psc multispeed is used as a replacement if the customer wants to keep their 70% efficient nat gas furnace. Often we just see cooling set with a low fan speed because the installer didn't recognize the need to change the blower motor. Once dust starts to accumulate on the bottom of the coil it brings the evap from being on the verge of freezing to actually freezing. A single speed shaded pole will only have two wires, a single speed psc will have two plus the two capacitor wires, a multispeed will have one white common and multiple hot speed wiress along with the two brown capacitor wires, thanks Mark!
Hello, I recently started having problems with my HVAC rooftop unit. It started blowing out air very slow and it won't take air from the return duct. I went up to the roof and took off the cover to where the blower fan is at and it started working, but as soon as it is covered again the blower fan slows down. I have clean filter on and I cleaned the coils with water. Thanks in advance for your assistance.
nice video and explanation! just had a question on the voltage part to the board. that board has a relay and shouldn't it read o volts if it's closed on contacts? just wondering. Or are you checking other side of line?
The common/neutral block is where you would place one probe and the other probe would be put on the heat or cool hot on the relay block depending if either heat or cooling was calling. Heat would have to go through the sequence of operation first before that would turn on. What I would do is just turn the fan on at the thermostat or jump it at the control board from r to g and then you would Usually test from common to heat relay term as the unit usually turns the blower on at the lower fan speed on the heat relay. Thanks
Great videos, very informative. On a 120v 3 speed motor, If the high speed (black wire) is getting 120v, should I have 120v coming from the medium speed (blue wire) ?
It will back feed voltage out of the unused speed wires so make sure they are placed on the tab labeled spare on the control board or they are zip tied and wire nutted in a safe location, thanks
hi there i do have motor out. but i don't see a capacitor. i replace a capacitor out there on the unit outside the last year. but on the furnace blower motor i don't see any!!!..melting Tx.!!! can i plug black and white on outlet just to see if motor spins??
You may have an x13 or variable speed motor. Here is a playlist with those. It may also be a shaded pole if it is a really old motor, thanks! - th-cam.com/play/PLxnHR5_D2ojyDrxCT9MIttGW4wxOZ3n-7.html
I am not sure if one I have is a 3 speed or 5. When we first got this place and I went to replace the air filter it would almost snatch the air filter out of my hand. I had to turn it off first. Now it like it is running on a medium setting. It is pulling the air in but is no where near as strong as it used to be. Could that be that the high speed has gone bad ? It has one of those washable type filters.Which I have cleaned so I do not think that is the problem.
Yes it is possible that the motor is going bad. You also checked the capacitor correct? Also the air shouldn't be that negatively pressurized, maybe the duct is a bit small? You would however turn the fan off before replacing the filter, thanks William!
Hey guys my old furnace blower motor on the sticker it says 120v and I bought a new motor but the guy gave me one that says 230v so he gave me the wrong one right?
it seems that my a/c blower motor is not putting out as much air as before on cool cycle i had ducts cleaned and cross over duct changed im in a double wide moblie home . i guess what im asking can the high speed on a blower motor go out and it switches to the med speed on the motor or should i look for something else motor starts good so does the capitacor have anything to do with the motor speed
Great Question! If the capacitor is at the lower range of the + or - 6% of the actual rating then that could be part of it. The motor won't switch to medium speed. Most of the time this happens is because an obstruction in the ductwork, dirty filter, low charge making part of the evap coil freeze, or there could be dust on the under side of the evap coil reducing the amount of air across the coil. Thanks
Hello, great informative video. Maybe you'll see this and can help. My furnace has been making noise off and on for about a month. Worse as time went on and finally it shut off In the middle of the night and was making a buzzing noise. After shutting it off at the thermostat it would still "buzz" off and on every few minutes... Weird.. I shut it off with the switch at the furnace and it stopped. I did turn it on again and watched the blower fan trying to turn. Little movements then nothing.. It spins by hand but not as smooth as I would think it would. The capacitor says 15 mdf and reads 13.63 with the capacitance setting on my multi meter. My next step is to check the blower like you did in this video but my question was- why would it make a buzzing noise after it's been turned off at the thermostat?? Seems odd to me. Please reply if you can and thank you!
A PSC blower shouldn't make any noise when the thermostat is not calling for the fan to turn on. Did you read voltage when it shouldn't have had any? If power is making it to a psc motor then you need to check the signal wires if you are reading 24v power between g and c when you shouldn't be, thanks
@@acservicetechchannel Apparently one of my kid's turned the fan switch from auto to on.. Lol.. Somehow I didn't notice this and I wonder how long it was like that. Thank you for the video and great explanation. I figured out that the blower motor is toast for sure. Wondering if the fan switch was "on" for a day or so leading to killing an old motor.
Have you ever run into only 1 of the windings opening up that you use for either cooling and heating but the rest of the motor is good, so you switch to a spare speed to keep running? If so, is A/C more important than HEAT as far as blower speed is concerned? To put it simply, if you did switch wires to keep unit running, would you always buy a new motor and replace? Thanks!
I would replace the motor. We usually always have more than one in the truck that will cover the psc motor range. Usually it is the start winding that is bad which is the one capacitor wire that does not have the white stripe. The other with the white stripe has roughly 0 ohms when tested with common as they are touching in the motor. Yes it would be more important to have the cooling speed working but to put it simply, when a motor is running, the other speed wires have voltage that can be read off of them so if one of them was shorted to ground then the unit would blow the breaker due to high amp. The resistance readings that can be taken off of each tap is more of a clue if the motor is on its way out rather than broken with a direct short to ground. I hope this answers the question Jack. As always, it is a pleasure! See ya
To any ac or hvac guys out there , I recently got my ac blower motor changed and this new variable speed blower Blows pretty slow compared to the last one but my house still cooled , I was wondering is it gonna be more efficient or not as good ? For comparison of the old one blew at speed 7/10 the new one blows at 3/10 ( how hard the air comes out all vents )
I'm trying to figure out the speeds on my motor - ICP1011404. Supposed to be 4 speeds. When running in Cool mode (black wire) it doesn't sound like it's running any different than when in Heat (orange wire) mode. I have power to "Cool" terminal on control board and have swapped leads - does not SEEM to be any difference in speeds. Reason I'm asking is that evap coil is freezing up. Have had tech come out - freon levels are good, coil is clean, filter is brand new. Would fan run at heating speed if cooling speed was bad? Also capacitor (Part # 1094956; 10 mf, 370 volt) - doesn't say if it's a Start or a Run capacitor. Is there a difference? Thanks for any help you could provide! LOVE your videos; VERY informative!
Hey did you figure out the problem ? I'm am having the same issue with mine only not icing up. Black wire is hooked up for A/C everything was good now all of a sudden cooling, heating, and even fan only are all the same speed!
@@NeverEnoughPyro40 I did buy a contact tachometer and checked the speed on end of shaft. Cooling (black wire) was @ 1080 rpm. Heating (orange wire) was @ 950. Both are faster than 900 rpm listed on motor. Never have found speeds listed anywhere, so still not sure if those are right.😤
Hello, Troubleshooting my Rheem Classic Super Quiet 80. In AC mode, the blower fan is running, but not much air is being moved. I wonder if it is two stage fan motor and it's not moving into the faster speed, for whatever reason. Maybe the capacitor? Or, an obstruction, which doesn't seem valid, as no construction or changes have occurred lately. Any thoughts? ThanksDarwin
It wouldn't be a two stage fan in cooling unless you had a two stage outdoor condenser. Did you check for clogged filter or possibly a second filter somewhere. I have seen that before. Did you check the backside of the evap coil in case it is clogged. If you have flex ducts or insulation on the inside of the duct, I have seen that collapse on themselves. The capacitor would either be good or bad. You can check for mfd. Check to make sure the high speed wire is called for in cooling mode if it is a psc motor. Thanks for the Question!
No it does not matter on a single cap like this. Dual caps use a common so it will be c and fan and c and herm which is the compressor. Thanks and check out the capacitor playlist for start caps, making one cap out of two, visual inspection and others. th-cam.com/video/ObTpixRWzyQ/w-d-xo.html
Question, I had an AS air handler today that blew a fuse twice. Everything was running when I got to the house but after cleaning the condenser and checking pressure it would not operate. I changed the fuse and flip the switch it turns the blower wheel then shuts off. If you don't mind what could be the problem?
I am guessing that we are talking about an air handler and not the outdoor unit. Is there electric strip heating with a 30, 60, or 90 amp fuse or are we talking 15 amp fuses for an air handler only? For now I will assume air handler only for the following. If it is pretty immediate even with slow blow fuses then it is a direct short such as one of the motor windings having continuity with the ground or could be capacitor if the thermal overload in the motor is not working. If it is delayed then you want to check capacitor, resistances on the motor windings, binding with the motor wheel, bad or burn't electrical connections. You should be able to find this problem with the power off and testing each component for resistance such as motor first, then fan relay, then wiring. I hope that this helps, Thanks for the question!
I woke up to a burnt smell and my blower motor was not turning in the furnace turned on and shortly later kicked off I took it apart looks really clean .. the burnt smell makes me think that the motor burnt up .. I didn't have a meter would this be a good assumption
If the burnt smell is coming from the electrical windings of the blower motor then yes it burnt up but also incoming voltage should be checked so the new one will be ok and the capacitor needs to be replaced, thanks!
I have been chasing a problem for a few days..when the A/C comes on I get a banging sound from the air handler..I replaced the capasitor noise went a away until the next time it came on..currently I am keeping the air handler fan on 24/7..but now when the A/C comes on I get a humming sound flickering "on" light from my thermostat and some flickering on the house lights for a few seconds..then all is fine..can the fan cause these problems? It has about 1/4 inch play side to side and 0 up and down...Nordyne E3EB-020-H about 10 years old....
It sounds like maybe the motor bearings may be bad. If that is the case then the motor should be replaced. The motor itself should not have any play with the shaft. Only rubber mounting grommets, thanks
If you have good cap good resistance on all speeds and 120v going to blower terminal on board but blower hums wont kick on and max amp is 20amp but blower draw is 12amp could that still be blower problem?
Exactly what resistance readings are you getting? Did you check windings to ground? Does the motor turn on in a different speed? Does the blower motor spin freely when off, meaning that the bearings are good? Also check the resistance from the brown wire to common. The start winding may be bad. The brown/white wire off the capacitor would have continuity with the white common wire on 120v blower motors. Thanks
Hi i need your help.. I have an air conditioner ,cassette model,but my indoor fan is getting spinning slow,it's not fast enought to blow air..it have 3 speed..but the higher speed is not blow much air..the question is what is the problem with my indoor fan?..i already check my capasitor and it's good
My blower motor was humming and not starting so I replaced the capacitor and it worked like a charm for half a day then starting having the same problem. Could it be a bad capacitor again?
It is likely that the capacitor failing has melted the electrical windings so that they heat up and trip and thermal overload. Did you check the capacitor with a multimeter? You may need to replace the motor if the cap is good with good incoming voltage. Make sure you don't have too much of a voltage drop while the motor is running and that it is a good 120v or 240v as needed, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel I dont have a meter. I replaced the capacitor because when the fan would try to start I could help it with my hand and it would start and run fine so I figured the capacitor was going bad. And a new capacitor was only $6. It worked perfect for about 8hrs then started doing the same thing. Could I be unlucky enough to have got a bad capacitor from the HVAC supply store or am I looking at replacing the fan? The house and hvac is only 12yrs old.
How did you know the white wire was the common wire ? Once you have the common to test the other speeds, there should be some resistance number the lower the number the faster the speed. IF you get OL or 000 the motor is bad. IS this right ? The one I am woking on runs but it is like it is stuck in first gear.
The wiring diagram on the motor, wiring diagram on the unit, the white is hooked to the common wire tap on the control board. Yes what you are saying is correct. It sounds that maybe your windings are possibly melted together. It sounds like the motor is on its way out, thanks William!
Hi guys! I have a Raheem AC sister! So the blower don't start! I can ear the noise to send the signal to start but not! By the first start few minutes but stop and then not start or work at all. Can you guys help me? Thanks
It sounds like it could be the board, the fan motor, or an electrical connection. Did you start by shutting the power off and replacing the capacitor with the exact same size? Have you replaced the air filter? Other than that, I would recommend an HVAC Technician diagnose the situation with a multimeter. Thanks!
I don't recommend my students doing that just do to safety since there is high amperage being drawn. If a load such as a blower can be tested with the power off then I recommend to do so, thanks!
AC Service Tech LLC Okay just wondering if it would be a good thing to load test them. The reason I asked is a capacitor said 7.5 mfd and tested at 6.73 which is right under the +\- 10% tolerance stated on the capacitor label. Anyways I went ahead and got a new one it has a 5% tolerance the blower stopped the buzzing and kicked on fine, but before changing the capacitor it buzzed almost every time it came on. The blower had one mishap since changing it out and it buzzed hasn’t since that one time after the new capacitor. Is that a sign of a weak blower? Seems to have a slow start up but works and blows fine... I haven’t got to test the blower itself yet. Also will heat affect a capacitor, possibly more so if the capacitor is old and weaker? Sorry for the million questions and thanks for your time.
Sorry, i am very much in a learning process, so forgive my ignorance.. My meter is a Bosch fix7677 pro meter.. It has on section of it thats says rpmx10 and dwell with 4cyl , 6cyl and rpm being 8, 6 and 4cyl.. are these the setting ings im looking for for testing a capacitor and if so which exactly would you say, if it matters
That meter has dc milliamps, voltage ac, voltage dc, and resistance. Those other two settings you are talking about are for testing cars. This meter doesn't have capacitance, sorry. Thanks for the Comment!
hi, with the neutral(white) of the motor connected to the neutral on the furnace control board i have continuity from black, blue,red, orange to the motor chassis. is this normal? the power coming into the furnace has continuity from Neutral to Ground chassis. is this normal too? the old blower burnt out and i have just replaced a new one and noticed this neutral to ground has continuity with my meter. thank you.
Hey Mark, first make sure that every wire is disconnected so you don't have some type of connection from common to the ground chassis. Then after all the wires are disconnected, if you have a resistance value from a hot to the ground, then your windings are burnt and touching the chassis. Remember that the common is attached to the other end of your windings, thanks
I would check resistance of your probes by themselves first to make sure that they are definitely at 0.0 ohms. My probes have to get changed out after a few years. Then if this it the case then the motor may be on it's way out, thanks!
Can only one of the motor speeds be bad. Red shows OL but all other colors look OK. What would cause this? I replaced a 17 year old blower motor and the new one stopped working after 2 months.
What if you get a beep from continuity from white to any other color? Does that mean its bad? I get the resistance readings but when I put it on sound (continuity) it beeps
@@acservicetechchannel thanks for your reply! The motor I took out didnt turn on in the furnace. The new one I put in and installed does work. But I get all the resistance readings off the old bad one...idk why because when hooked to 115v it does turn on...
My LennoxLandmark EC10 electric furnace fan kicks out after two to three minutes of less than full air flow. Air and heat work. Only issue is air flow. Cleaned motor housing with compressor equiped with fine flexible copper tubing to no avail.What should I do next before resorting to motor relacement?
The capacitor is not attached to the motor, but to the outside motor 'cage'. Furnace model #? If so, Lennox Landmark EC1003-20-1.The wires seem to plug into the motor as far as I can see using mirror and flashlight.
OL on a multimeter does not mean Over Limit. (What exactly would be over the limit when there’s no power). It means “Open Loop”. If something burns out there would be an “opening” in the line somewhere.. like an open switch or burnt out wire. Other than that good video.
Purple is a color used on 240v motors. It also sounds like you don't have a white for common. Is there a wiring diagram on the side of the blower motor under the motor mount assembly?
Our Inverter Mini Split Resources:
Mini Split Book on Our Website- www.acservicetech.com/mini-split-book
Mini Split Paperback on Amazon- amzn.to/3ytHJSs
Mini Split Paperback on TruTech Tools- www.trutechtools.com/BooksGuides?aff=8
Mini Split E-Book on Google- play.google.com/store/books/details?id=HN-iEAAAQBAJ
Mini Split E-Book on Apple- books.apple.com/us/book/id6445178399
Our Single Speed and Two Speed Air Conditioning Resources:
My Paperback and E-Book: www.acservicetech.com/the-book
My Paperback: www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech
Read the book reviews on Amazon!
Check out our new Articles at www.acservicetech.com/articles
Support the Channel: www.patreon.com/acservicetech
Tool List: www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech
Check out our HVAC Calculators at www.acservicetech.com/hvac-calculators
Try our new Quizzes! www.acservicetech.com/quizzes
Check out our Podcast! www.acservicetech.com/podcast
Follow us on Facebook! facebook.com/acservicetech
Follow us on Instagram! instagram.com/acservicetech
Support the Channel by purchasing tools through Tru Tech Tools!
Use this link www.trutechtools.com/?AffId=43
Save 8% at checkout using code "acservicetech"
Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech
Support- www.patreon.com/acservicetech
For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below)
Here is the Link for the newer UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor- amzn.to/2jtsUbJ
Here is the Link for the newer UEI DL 469 Multimeter- amzn.to/2jw4ePJ
Here is a link to the UEI DL389 Multimeter used in this video- amzn.to/2av8s3q
Here is the Link for the Yellow Jacket Refrigerant Manifold Gauge Set used in the videos-
amzn.to/2aenwTq
Here is a link to Refrigerant hoses with valves used in the videos- amzn.to/2aBumVI
Here is the link to the Fieldpiece ST4 Dual Temp Meter- amzn.to/2wc1ME3
Here is a link to the Digital Refrigerant Scale used in the videos-
amzn.to/2b9oXYl
Here is a link to the Imperial 535-C Kwik Charge Vaporizer for Charging Refrigerant- amzn.to/2wFHtBW
Here is a link for RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector amzn.to/2ckWACn
Other tool links can be found in the video description section.
ACSERVICETECH is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.
Check out other videos on the HVACR topics of interest at- th-cam.com/channels/OZR-1IqsAer9wzlvFgb4mA.htmlplaylists?view_as=public
AC Service Tech LLC I have a question, can you test a capacitor with the blower and unit in the on position? Thanks.
I need. Help!! I replaced my capacitor still the fan isn't coming on...is it ny fab motor or if the capactior on top of the fab blower is blown would i need to replace it before replacing fan motor?
Trying to diagnose my blower right now. Your video was very helpful in giving me some basic guidance on testing and how to proceed. Thank you.
Trying to diagnose my blower right now. Your video was very helpful in giving me some basic guidance. THANK YOU!
Check out other videos on the HVACR topics of interest at- th-cam.com/channels/OZR-1IqsAer9wzlvFgb4mA.htmlplaylists?view_as=public
Straight to the point no gimmicks Safety First this solved answers of Google's 4 days not to mention calling companies for free advice
Great Video. Recently purchased blower motor and capacitor to install myself because I did not know how to test! You covered it all. Apparently it is just my capacitor that went bad but the motor had a funny burned smell. Debating if I should uninstall the new and return. Repair Clinic is the best. Thanks again acservicetech.
What happens in a blower motor when the cap is bad is that the internal overload will cut out the start winding but over time that could fail. While the internal overload is still allowing power in the windings can melt which is what you are likely smelling. Thanks for the comment!
checked resistance on the motor and all is good. checked the capacitor and all is good...no blower at all. Changed control module and also the limiter prior to checking above....any thoughts?
Hey Jim, are you talking about the limiter as the thermal overload built into the windings inside the motor or a fan limit control outside the motor? I am guessing you mean a fan limit control.
It is possible that the thermal overload is opening when you are applying power to the motor on the common wire in the motor winding and then when this wire is being tested after it has had a chance to cool down. I could also be a bad or cracked rotor. Either way, if you are getting power to a psc blower motor when it is supposed to and the capacitor is good, then you should replace this motor. There is nothing inside the motor to service at the winding or rotor level if it does not start. Thanks for the question!
Thanks for this video! I have a 2002 Bryant Plus 90T furnace that was igniting but then shortly thereafter shutting off, and giving me a code 13. I suspected there may be something wrong with the blower motor as it seemed to run at much slower than normal speed when I switched to fan only at the thermostat. I use this function a lot during the summer months to circulate air in the house so I know how fast it usually runs. After other troubleshooting suggestions were followed, my problem was a faulty motor run capacitor, found thanks to this video. I was able to find a matching replacement at Grainger for $5. Cheap fix! Furnace is now operating properly.
Glad to help!
I told my wife "The Flux Capacitor" went out! Haha ...Back to the Future
Yup that is heard a lot!
Thank you, very informative info here. I don't have any problems yet, just browsing to update my (mental) knowledge database! I'm electronically, electrically and mechanically inclined and the type who will attempt anything, but I know my limits. I did subscribe to your channel, so I have lots of watching to do! Thank you!
Thanks John!
You make it simple.
Thanks alot for all of your videos, very helpful.
I can't wait to see your next new video.
Thanks a lot Roma!
Awesome step-by-step instructions.
verry helpfull and straightforward video, thank you. i was actually trying to figure out what wire did what on a used blower im using for a different application (shop ventilation) so the simple test was verry helpfull
Thank you very much!
Great choice on that winter ❄️ wonderland view ! Very Beautiful !
That was my front yard, thanks
acservicetech That is so peaceful and eye pleasing to tell you the truth I suspected it was a view that you often see and this confirms it ! I too took a similar picture one snowy day in my backyard where my tools and HVAC equipments shed is
I show these to my guys all the time great videos.
thanks
Awesome to hear Felipe!
Whenever an OEM Chinese made motor ( Zhongshen motor ) like this goes I then put a GE or an Emerson with a separate four brackets belly band ! I had one motor like this that kept pushing its stator and shaft right through the plastic end cap that is on the bottom of the shaft/ motor for its application ( horizontal To the right install up in the attic ) not once but twice in 3 years !!! Put in an Emerson 3/4 HP and that was the end of the problem !
Thanks for the post
Nice, thanks Mason!
All things seem to point to my capacitor. I’m eagerly waiting for it to arrive today lol thank you my dear fello
take a meter and check the capacitance if it is higher or lower than 6% it’s your capacitor
Sad thing is, I don’t have one, but it was the capacitor and it’s working like a champ. Thanks Buddy
@@frankzito1 I used to work in a TV repair shop and I always preferred the ESR capacitor meters.
Completely took mine out because parts place told me tey had one that fit but didn't . It was universal but cheap $75 and in stock so i decided to try . Unfortunately not ,holes and bracket didn't ssem to align . Been verry hot today in south Tx . Five days without AC
Your videos are incredible. I recently had an HVAC house call because the 115v wires in my air handler's juction box had fried out. The technician reconnected the wires and the air handler fan worked again! Yay! I figured I must have had an energy surge from a lightning strike in the area, but when he tested the AMP draw from the motor he quickly shut off the unit and said "WHOA! That's drawing nearly 7 AMPS! You need a new blower motor! This is unsafe!" Later, I noticed the sticker on the motor says 9.35 AMP! !! Plus, the fan spins smoothly and freely. Is he just trying to sell me a new blower motor? Or is that truly an alarming AMP draw?
Great video. It refreshed my memory from class. I will visit this site again if I have any questions. Keep up the good work. I am just starting out in the field of HVAC and hope to work for a company soon. Again good video. I am currently changing out a blower motor in my son's unit. The motor would start but soon quit. There is some play in the shaft. I am thinking that the bearings are bad. I am going to replace the motor.
Great to Hear and Glad to Help! Thanks for the comment!
Thank you for posting this well put together video. It taught me allot and saved us $$$$. Appreciate it.
Very welcome!
you are on next lever for sure! thank you very much for the video.
Thank you Ryan, I am glad you really enjoy the videos!
great education. thank you. regards. should one check each wire to ground to see if they could have shorted to ground?. thank you
Yes absolutely, thanks
Thank you very helpful
great info! I love watching your videos
Thank you for watching! I'm glad you found the video informative!
Getting no fan after some condensate build up caused an error code. Cleaned out the tubing and cleared the error codes. No fan and no voltage at the terminals when I tried heat mode. Bad board? Gave pressure sensor error in heat mode. AC mode gave (20,26,59) twinning error, reverse neutral, and condensate errors. Wiring never changed and it’s a newer system that has been running for four years. Outside unit works fine. Any help is appreciated, thanks for the informative videos!
Hello, great content! Had a question when troubleshooting (a non functioned blower/wont turn on)...When using the multimeter, can I take blower out/disconnect? With my horizontal Trane, I cannot access anything. Plus very hot up in attic. I removed to clean it, but looks in good shape (GE blower) already tried replacing capacitors and cleaned the outside unit coils and filter. Thanks!
I have an old blower motor and capacitor. After the AC has been running for a good 90 minutes the motors rpm slows down about 50%. Shut things down a bit and rpms pick back up to normal. Think it could be a failing run capacitor?
Also feel to check if the motor is hot.The thermal overload could be tripped.If it’s really hot let it cool then recheck it.
Absolutely, thanks, here is a video on the thermal overload- th-cam.com/video/IBg0EZg0ohY/w-d-xo.html
I installed new motor and everything connected properly, but my furnace blower motor runs slow and my heater turns of after 15 minutes or so. Capacitor is new as well????? Need help
Reman ECM X13 motor new replacement stopped working shortly after installation. On old motor all taps were dead, windings were fine, ECM Failure. 220-240V Line Voltages, grounds and low voltage call signal (29v) to common measured at motor seem ok. Any suggestions? Didn't have time to check other taps on new motor.
Pretty sure my motor is bad even though I'm getting the various ohms for each speed. Another TH-camr confirmed that you can have good readings, but still have a bad motor. We smelled some odd burning smell a few months ago, so I think for some reason the motor overheated. The fan blades spin quietly and smoothly by hand, and there's no play in the bearing. It works now for 5 minutes, but then the motor shuts off. Any thoughts?
Best videos ever!
Very good informative video, thank you.
I know how to ohm out the motor and check for grounding. when I total my resistance readings, how much difference can the motor have before you condemn it?
Thank You ACSERVICE TECH another excellent video
I am glad you enjoyed the video!
One of your great articles led me here and helped me avoid changing my control board. It turns out it was my thermostat face so thank you!
A couple of questions, can the 24-28volt test be done from the thermostat wires or does it have to be from the control board? I didn't get to test mine because it was raining so I just swapped it with a programmable one since I needed the upgrade and was lucky this time.
The heat worked but not fan only or a/c. Does that mean if I had tested it at control board with the fan or a/c mode, it wouldn't have registered the proper voltage?
Also when the blower cap blew the motor came to a grinding halt and yet spins freely, how is that possible?
What a helpful video. Thank you for sharing it. I have a split a/c system (heat pump) and the air handler blower sometimes does not start and the whole system freezes within 2 minutes. I turn the system off for some 5 minutes, start again and works normally again. This can happen 2 or 3 times a month, specially during the summer humid and rainy months of the year. I also have noticed a couple of times that when the a/c system starts, my TV turns off and on momentarily, just like a sudden electric power demand happened. Could this be a bad capacitor?
Check your refrigerant and pressures …
Where is the blower motor reset button? Or does the light switch box mounted on the side of the furnace pretty much function as a reset button?
Furnace keeps tripping the breaker. I believe I narrowed it down to when it starts up. Might trip once a week or so. Starting to happen more often. Already checked return and delivery and are clear. Would this same testing be applicable for diagnosing if my motor/capacitor is on the way out?
Is it possible to have correct resistance readings as well as continuity and still have a bad blower motor?
What if the readings are higher....but incrementally different IE...4.6....12.9....48.9 & 103......would the motor still work?? No windings are grounded....
Hi, I am checking my HVAC and the blower motor has four wires - black, brown, blue and green. There are two capacitors for the fan. ( and a separate one for the compressor) When I tested the wiring with the multimeter, there is reading when I connect black and brown. When I test blue with all other wires, there is nothing at all. I saw most motor has a white wire but mine doesn't have one. Can you help please.
Capacitors are all good but the HVAC won't start up.
Is this a packaged unit outside? That would be 240v. Normally the wiring diagram is on the side of the blower motor and also the wiring diagram is on the inside shroud of the packaged unit. What does the unit say each of the wires are labeled as?
It would be nice to have wiring diagramn of a multi speed PSC motor to refer to while taking the measurements for extra clarity for newbies
we understood if the ohm reading is zero or ol motor windings are bad but is there also a way to tell what the correct ohm reading should be ?
I have a one-speed blower motor that doesn't use a capacitor, it had continuity between both wires not sure if that was a good thing or bad thing, it still ran but it smelled burnt
Let's have something on why would a blower motor reversed it's rotation. And how to correct it before buying a new one ?
*How would you test the blower motor start winding?*
I have tested all of the speed wires to common and the capacitor wires to common.
Black, high speed, cool - 3.2 Ω.
Blue, med high speed, heat - 4.5 Ω.
Yellow, med low speed, park - 5.8 Ω.
Red, low speed, park - 9.3 Ω.
1st capacitor wire, brown - 9.3 Ω.
2nd capacitor wire, brown - 39.4 Ω
So speed wire resistance readings are good. (I'm not positive abt the capacitor wires?)
The capacitor itself was not in spec, so replaced it.
Still fan does not kick on. Makes same loud, awful buzz noise.
Fan spins freely when pushed by hand.
Tested new capacitor, just to be sure. It is good.
I'm having the same issue, everything checks out good. Did you check them for any grounding issues?
How did you fix it. I’m having the same issue.
same here lol, buzzing motor, capacitor value and tolerance checks out, resistances check out as well... im stumped
Very informative video, learned a lot. Thanks
Thanks Adnan!
My blower fan comes on fine with the ac or if I manually put it on. If I turn on the heater furnace the blower motor will only hum and no start. The capacitor checked good. Does this mean the fan is week and cannot work on the slower speed the furnace requires?
Any suggestions???
GEEZ , the guy helping me at AC place their place not open today or tomorrow AND I need to ask him again something . He said on blower motor if I disconect the cool terminal wire on circuit board and connect the bottom black wire to cool terminal that ( this is what I'm not sure what he said and needed to talk to him ) if it works ( or doesn't ) that means board is bad NOT the motor ?? OR is it the other way around ?? And yes replaced capacitor . Still the same barely running the blower not full speed and shuts down after a while with new capacito
How can you diagnose a failing but intermittently working blower motor? When you check amp reading of motor what should be the range of amp draw relative to name plate of motor? If name plate indicates 8.0 A and if you read 8.5A does this mean the motor over drawing? Do you also recommend using megaohm meters to figure out such problems? Or checking static pressure and confirming it with manufacturer's airflow vs static pressure charts?
Are you talking about intermittent blower motors that are ecm or psc? Are they having a problem not starting or shutting off during the middle of operation due to overheating or another reason? thanks!
AC Service Tech LLC PSC motors overheating issues
Thank you for the the video. Quick question my old capacitor has 2 terminals. I cant find the exact replacment to it. The ones i am looking at have 4 terminals, like the one in your videos. Do i just plug the wires in any terminal? Hope that mafe sense
It won't matter if the cap has two or four tabs on each connection site as long as they are all connected together at that site. Make sure the cap voltage is the same or higher and the mfd or uF is the exact same as what the old one was as it states on the rating plate on the side of the motor, thanks Gamie!
I lost track which one goes where on the capacitor they both the same color and same connection type. Does it matter what side? My capacitor has only 2 sides but has 4 prong per side. Your help will be appreciated!!!
If it is just a single capacitor with two taps then it does not matter. One on one side of the run cap and one on the other side. 4 prongs are just connected to each tap. Make sure that you have the wires going to the cap by looking at the wiring diagram, thanks
@@acservicetechchannel yes i know which 2 are they. Both brown. I just forgot which side was which
I have a 3 speed x13 and the resistance in pin 2 is lower than in pin 1 but when i get to pin 3 i get around 1.3 ohm. What would this indicate?
Do I need to replace my capacitor if the blower is not blowing
Great instructions
Great clip
Thanks LeQuang!
thank you for another great video. this is considered a 5 speed motor because of the 5 different speed taps. so what is a SINGLE speed furnace blower? is there such a thing because don't you need one speed for heat and one for cool? can you please help me to distinguish between single speed blower and multiple speed blower? thanks.
Older furnaces only came with a single speed blower which was either a shaded pole or a psc because they weren't designed for cooling as well. When installing cooling, a psc multispeed is used as a replacement if the customer wants to keep their 70% efficient nat gas furnace. Often we just see cooling set with a low fan speed because the installer didn't recognize the need to change the blower motor. Once dust starts to accumulate on the bottom of the coil it brings the evap from being on the verge of freezing to actually freezing. A single speed shaded pole will only have two wires, a single speed psc will have two plus the two capacitor wires, a multispeed will have one white common and multiple hot speed wiress along with the two brown capacitor wires, thanks Mark!
My blower motor comes on for my Heat Pump/Air Conditioner but will not come on when calling for heat. Any help??
Hello, I recently started having problems with my HVAC rooftop unit. It started blowing out air very slow and it won't take air from the return duct. I went up to the roof and took off the cover to where the blower fan is at and it started working, but as soon as it is covered again the blower fan slows down. I have clean filter on and I cleaned the coils with water. Thanks in advance for your assistance.
nice video and explanation! just had a question on the voltage part to the board. that board has a relay and shouldn't it read o volts if it's closed on contacts? just wondering. Or are you checking other side of line?
The common/neutral block is where you would place one probe and the other probe would be put on the heat or cool hot on the relay block depending if either heat or cooling was calling. Heat would have to go through the sequence of operation first before that would turn on. What I would do is just turn the fan on at the thermostat or jump it at the control board from r to g and then you would Usually test from common to heat relay term as the unit usually turns the blower on at the lower fan speed on the heat relay. Thanks
Great videos, very informative. On a 120v 3 speed motor, If the high speed (black wire) is getting 120v, should I have 120v coming from the medium speed (blue wire) ?
It will back feed voltage out of the unused speed wires so make sure they are placed on the tab labeled spare on the control board or they are zip tied and wire nutted in a safe location, thanks
Ok, good to know. But what happens if I am using the medium speed for heating (ahu has a hydronic coil) ? Am I using the correct blower motor?
hi there i do have motor out. but i don't see a capacitor. i replace a capacitor out there on the unit outside the last year. but on the furnace blower motor i don't see any!!!..melting Tx.!!! can i plug black and white on outlet just to see if motor spins??
You may have an x13 or variable speed motor. Here is a playlist with those. It may also be a shaded pole if it is a really old motor, thanks! - th-cam.com/play/PLxnHR5_D2ojyDrxCT9MIttGW4wxOZ3n-7.html
I am not sure if one I have is a 3 speed or 5. When we first got this place and I went to replace the air filter it would almost snatch the air filter out of my hand. I had to turn it off first. Now it like it is running on a medium setting. It is pulling the air in but is no where near as strong as it used to be. Could that be that the high speed has gone bad ? It has one of those washable type filters.Which I have cleaned so I do not think that is the problem.
Yes it is possible that the motor is going bad. You also checked the capacitor correct? Also the air shouldn't be that negatively pressurized, maybe the duct is a bit small? You would however turn the fan off before replacing the filter, thanks William!
When testing the Board from (heat) to (L2) would that be on heat pump air handler board or a gas furnace or would it work in either one
Hey guys my old furnace blower motor on the sticker it says 120v and I bought a new motor but the guy gave me one that says 230v so he gave me the wrong one right?
it seems that my a/c blower motor is not putting out as much air as before on cool cycle i had ducts cleaned and cross over duct changed im in a double wide moblie home . i guess what im asking can the high speed on a blower motor go out and it switches to the med speed on the motor or should i look for something else motor starts good so does the capitacor have anything to do with the motor speed
Great Question! If the capacitor is at the lower range of the + or - 6% of the actual rating then that could be part of it. The motor won't switch to medium speed. Most of the time this happens is because an obstruction in the ductwork, dirty filter, low charge making part of the evap coil freeze, or there could be dust on the under side of the evap coil reducing the amount of air across the coil. Thanks
Hello, great informative video. Maybe you'll see this and can help. My furnace has been making noise off and on for about a month. Worse as time went on and finally it shut off In the middle of the night and was making a buzzing noise. After shutting it off at the thermostat it would still "buzz" off and on every few minutes...
Weird.. I shut it off with the switch at the furnace and it stopped.
I did turn it on again and watched the blower fan trying to turn. Little movements then nothing..
It spins by hand but not as smooth as I would think it would. The capacitor says 15 mdf and reads 13.63 with the capacitance setting on my multi meter.
My next step is to check the blower like you did in this video but my question was- why would it make a buzzing noise after it's been turned off at the thermostat??
Seems odd to me. Please reply if you can and thank you!
A PSC blower shouldn't make any noise when the thermostat is not calling for the fan to turn on. Did you read voltage when it shouldn't have had any? If power is making it to a psc motor then you need to check the signal wires if you are reading 24v power between g and c when you shouldn't be, thanks
@@acservicetechchannel Apparently one of my kid's turned the fan switch from auto to on.. Lol..
Somehow I didn't notice this and I wonder how long it was like that.
Thank you for the video and great explanation. I figured out that the blower motor is toast for sure. Wondering if the fan switch was "on" for a day or so leading to killing an old motor.
Have you ever run into only 1 of the windings opening up that you use for either cooling and heating but the rest of the motor is good, so you switch to a spare speed to keep running? If so, is A/C more important than HEAT as far as blower speed is concerned? To put it simply, if you did switch wires to keep unit running, would you always buy a new motor and replace? Thanks!
I would replace the motor. We usually always have more than one in the truck that will cover the psc motor range. Usually it is the start winding that is bad which is the one capacitor wire that does not have the white stripe. The other with the white stripe has roughly 0 ohms when tested with common as they are touching in the motor. Yes it would be more important to have the cooling speed working but to put it simply, when a motor is running, the other speed wires have voltage that can be read off of them so if one of them was shorted to ground then the unit would blow the breaker due to high amp. The resistance readings that can be taken off of each tap is more of a clue if the motor is on its way out rather than broken with a direct short to ground. I hope this answers the question Jack. As always, it is a pleasure! See ya
To any ac or hvac guys out there , I recently got my ac blower motor changed and this new variable speed blower Blows pretty slow compared to the last one but my house still cooled , I was wondering is it gonna be more efficient or not as good ? For comparison of the old one blew at speed 7/10 the new one blows at 3/10 ( how hard the air comes out all vents )
I'm trying to figure out the speeds on my motor - ICP1011404. Supposed to be 4 speeds.
When running in Cool mode (black wire) it doesn't sound like it's running any different than when in Heat (orange wire) mode. I have power to "Cool" terminal on control board and have swapped leads - does not SEEM to be any difference in speeds.
Reason I'm asking is that evap coil is freezing up. Have had tech come out - freon levels are good, coil is clean, filter is brand new.
Would fan run at heating speed if cooling speed was bad?
Also capacitor (Part # 1094956; 10 mf, 370 volt) - doesn't say if it's a Start or a Run capacitor. Is there a difference?
Thanks for any help you could provide!
LOVE your videos; VERY informative!
Hey did you figure out the problem ? I'm am having the same issue with mine only not icing up. Black wire is hooked up for A/C everything was good now all of a sudden cooling, heating, and even fan only are all the same speed!
@@NeverEnoughPyro40 I did buy a contact tachometer and checked the speed on end of shaft.
Cooling (black wire) was @ 1080 rpm.
Heating (orange wire) was @ 950.
Both are faster than 900 rpm listed on motor.
Never have found speeds listed anywhere, so still not sure if those are right.😤
Hello, Troubleshooting my Rheem Classic Super Quiet 80. In AC mode, the blower fan is running, but not much air is being moved. I wonder if it is two stage fan motor and it's not moving into the faster speed, for whatever reason. Maybe the capacitor? Or, an obstruction, which doesn't seem valid, as no construction or changes have occurred lately. Any thoughts?
ThanksDarwin
It wouldn't be a two stage fan in cooling unless you had a two stage outdoor condenser. Did you check for clogged filter or possibly a second filter somewhere. I have seen that before. Did you check the backside of the evap coil in case it is clogged. If you have flex ducts or insulation on the inside of the duct, I have seen that collapse on themselves. The capacitor would either be good or bad. You can check for mfd. Check to make sure the high speed wire is called for in cooling mode if it is a psc motor. Thanks for the Question!
once you were done checking the capacitor does it matter which way the wires back on
No it does not matter on a single cap like this. Dual caps use a common so it will be c and fan and c and herm which is the compressor. Thanks and check out the capacitor playlist for start caps, making one cap out of two, visual inspection and others. th-cam.com/video/ObTpixRWzyQ/w-d-xo.html
Question, I had an AS air handler today that blew a fuse twice. Everything was running when I got to the house but after cleaning the condenser and checking pressure it would not operate. I changed the fuse and flip the switch it turns the blower wheel then shuts off. If you don't mind what could be the problem?
I am guessing that we are talking about an air handler and not the outdoor unit. Is there electric strip heating with a 30, 60, or 90 amp fuse or are we talking 15 amp fuses for an air handler only? For now I will assume air handler only for the following. If it is pretty immediate even with slow blow fuses then it is a direct short such as one of the motor windings having continuity with the ground or could be capacitor if the thermal overload in the motor is not working. If it is delayed then you want to check capacitor, resistances on the motor windings, binding with the motor wheel, bad or burn't electrical connections. You should be able to find this problem with the power off and testing each component for resistance such as motor first, then fan relay, then wiring. I hope that this helps, Thanks for the question!
I woke up to a burnt smell and my blower motor was not turning in the furnace turned on and shortly later kicked off I took it apart looks really clean .. the burnt smell makes me think that the motor burnt up .. I didn't have a meter would this be a good assumption
If the burnt smell is coming from the electrical windings of the blower motor then yes it burnt up but also incoming voltage should be checked so the new one will be ok and the capacitor needs to be replaced, thanks!
thank you
Glad to help!
@@acservicetechchannel This video won my subscription!
Thanks q0987!
I have been chasing a problem for a few days..when the A/C comes on I get a banging sound from the air handler..I replaced the capasitor noise went a away until the next time it came on..currently I am keeping the air handler fan on 24/7..but now when the A/C comes on I get a humming sound flickering "on" light from my thermostat and some flickering on the house lights for a few seconds..then all is fine..can the fan cause these problems? It has about 1/4 inch play side to side and 0 up and down...Nordyne E3EB-020-H about 10 years old....
It sounds like maybe the motor bearings may be bad. If that is the case then the motor should be replaced. The motor itself should not have any play with the shaft. Only rubber mounting grommets, thanks
If you have good cap good resistance on all speeds and 120v going to blower terminal on board but blower hums wont kick on and max amp is 20amp but blower draw is 12amp could that still be blower problem?
Exactly what resistance readings are you getting? Did you check windings to ground? Does the motor turn on in a different speed? Does the blower motor spin freely when off, meaning that the bearings are good? Also check the resistance from the brown wire to common. The start winding may be bad. The brown/white wire off the capacitor would have continuity with the white common wire on 120v blower motors. Thanks
Great video.
Thanks Lindsey2010!
Hi i need your help..
I have an air conditioner ,cassette model,but my indoor fan is getting spinning slow,it's not fast enought to blow air..it have 3 speed..but the higher speed is not blow much air..the question is what is the problem with my indoor fan?..i already check my capasitor and it's good
It could also be a closed off return or supply duct. If not and you are getting the right voltage then it would be a bad motor, thanks
Great Vids Thanks again!
Thanks Chris!
My blower motor was humming and not starting so I replaced the capacitor and it worked like a charm for half a day then starting having the same problem. Could it be a bad capacitor again?
It is likely that the capacitor failing has melted the electrical windings so that they heat up and trip and thermal overload. Did you check the capacitor with a multimeter? You may need to replace the motor if the cap is good with good incoming voltage. Make sure you don't have too much of a voltage drop while the motor is running and that it is a good 120v or 240v as needed, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel I dont have a meter. I replaced the capacitor because when the fan would try to start I could help it with my hand and it would start and run fine so I figured the capacitor was going bad. And a new capacitor was only $6. It worked perfect for about 8hrs then started doing the same thing. Could I be unlucky enough to have got a bad capacitor from the HVAC supply store or am I looking at replacing the fan? The house and hvac is only 12yrs old.
I wouldn't want to say without testing. You wouldn't want the motor to burn up. I couldn't tell without measurements on both, thanks
what would be the reading between the brown wires for the start coil? (that the cap.hooks to?)
It would depend on the motor start winding but usually it is very high, thanks
How did you know the white wire was the common wire ? Once you have the common to test the other speeds, there should be some resistance number the lower the number the faster the speed. IF you get OL or 000 the motor is bad. IS this right ? The one I am woking on runs but it is like it is stuck in first gear.
The wiring diagram on the motor, wiring diagram on the unit, the white is hooked to the common wire tap on the control board. Yes what you are saying is correct. It sounds that maybe your windings are possibly melted together. It sounds like the motor is on its way out, thanks William!
Hi guys! I have a Raheem AC sister! So the blower don't start! I can ear the noise to send the signal to start but not! By the first start few minutes but stop and then not start or work at all. Can you guys help me? Thanks
It sounds like it could be the board, the fan motor, or an electrical connection. Did you start by shutting the power off and replacing the capacitor with the exact same size? Have you replaced the air filter? Other than that, I would recommend an HVAC Technician diagnose the situation with a multimeter. Thanks!
I have a question, can you test a capacitor with the blower and unit in the on position? Thanks.
I don't recommend my students doing that just do to safety since there is high amperage being drawn. If a load such as a blower can be tested with the power off then I recommend to do so, thanks!
AC Service Tech LLC Okay just wondering if it would be a good thing to load test them. The reason I asked is a capacitor said 7.5 mfd and tested at 6.73 which is right under the +\- 10% tolerance stated on the capacitor label. Anyways I went ahead and got a new one it has a 5% tolerance the blower stopped the buzzing and kicked on fine, but before changing the capacitor it buzzed almost every time it came on. The blower had one mishap since changing it out and it buzzed hasn’t since that one time after the new capacitor. Is that a sign of a weak blower? Seems to have a slow start up but works and blows fine... I haven’t got to test the blower itself yet. Also will heat affect a capacitor, possibly more so if the capacitor is old and weaker? Sorry for the million questions and thanks for your time.
Sorry, i am very much in a learning process, so forgive my ignorance.. My meter is a Bosch fix7677 pro meter..
It has on section of it thats says rpmx10 and dwell with 4cyl , 6cyl and rpm being 8, 6 and 4cyl.. are these the setting ings im looking for for testing a capacitor and if so which exactly would you say, if it matters
That meter has dc milliamps, voltage ac, voltage dc, and resistance. Those other two settings you are talking about are for testing cars. This meter doesn't have capacitance, sorry. Thanks for the Comment!
I feel very little cold air coming from the vents after a monsoon storm any ideas why this happened?
hi, with the neutral(white) of the motor connected to the neutral on the furnace control board i have continuity from black, blue,red, orange to the motor chassis. is this normal? the power coming into the furnace has continuity from Neutral to Ground chassis. is this normal too? the old blower burnt out and i have just replaced a new one and noticed this neutral to ground has continuity with my meter. thank you.
Hey Mark, first make sure that every wire is disconnected so you don't have some type of connection from common to the ground chassis. Then after all the wires are disconnected, if you have a resistance value from a hot to the ground, then your windings are burnt and touching the chassis. Remember that the common is attached to the other end of your windings, thanks
good video. Thanks!
Thanks Jaime!
My motor is still inside furnace,do i need to disconnect all speed wires to get a accurate reading or can i disconnect one by one for reading?
Yes, shut the power off, take a picture of the wire locations and disconnect to take resistance readings, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel thank you sir i really appreciate you
if i get two or more readings that are the same, what would be the problem?
I would check resistance of your probes by themselves first to make sure that they are definitely at 0.0 ohms. My probes have to get changed out after a few years. Then if this it the case then the motor may be on it's way out, thanks!
So if capacitor is rated 15 what mfd reading would be considered bad would it be 10 or lower reading?
As in video...good is + or - 6%..(15x.06=.9) so .9 minus 15 would equal 14.1...anything lower needs replaced...
Can only one of the motor speeds be bad. Red shows OL but all other colors look OK. What would cause this? I replaced a 17 year old blower motor and the new one stopped working after 2 months.
Yeah one can go bad. I would call the manufacturer or supply house and check on that getting replaced, under warranty possibly, thanks
What if you get a beep from continuity from white to any other color? Does that mean its bad? I get the resistance readings but when I put it on sound (continuity) it beeps
Continuity just means that they are connected and that there is resistance. I really don't use the continuity function, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel thanks for your reply! The motor I took out didnt turn on in the furnace. The new one I put in and installed does work. But I get all the resistance readings off the old bad one...idk why because when hooked to 115v it does turn on...
very good, thanks...
Thanks Pei Broker!
THANK YOU
No problem Carl, glad to help!
my blower motor starts but then it stops after a couple second,and i changed the capacitor,do you think i have a bad motor?
When it is off, did you check the bearings and if there is any wobble? After that, what do the resistance values look like? Thanks
My LennoxLandmark EC10 electric furnace fan kicks out after two to three minutes of less than full air flow. Air and heat work. Only issue is air flow. Cleaned motor housing with compressor equiped with fine flexible copper tubing to no avail.What should I do next before resorting to motor relacement?
Is the motor ecm, x13, or psc?
Sorry, I have no idea. How could I determine which? On motor?
Does the motor have a capacitor attached? Do the wires plug into the motor or are the wires running through the motor, what is the model number?
The capacitor is not attached to the motor, but to the outside motor 'cage'. Furnace model #? If so, Lennox Landmark EC1003-20-1.The wires seem to plug into the motor as far as I can see using mirror and flashlight.
Motor is out and wires run through motor.
OL on a multimeter does not mean Over Limit. (What exactly would be over the limit when there’s no power). It means “Open Loop”. If something burns out there would be an “opening” in the line somewhere.. like an open switch or burnt out wire. Other than that good video.
What about the grounding, need to check that too
Absolutely check ground to each wire, thanks
purple black blue and red wires only hvac 4 wire motor and the two brown to the cap.
how do I wire it up for 120V ?????
Purple is a color used on 240v motors. It also sounds like you don't have a white for common. Is there a wiring diagram on the side of the blower motor under the motor mount assembly?
ok thanks