@@tinkovacevic4716 što,kada staviš klip 50mm da bude 100cc,i još malo kemijanja oko auspuha,prijenosa, karburatora i aerodinamičnih plastika možeš postići 150kmh
E90 cilindar treba piksirat neda se busiti tako da ima kemije dosta da se stavi veci klip.. a dostic 150km/h treba mu vise kubika i snage.. pa 125ice jedva nategnu 150-160km/h
@bacorableYeah! Use torque wrench for everything even for a valve stem caps Let the man have fun with his own bike, it’s not a racing bike by any mean,And the most important thing is the bike is working perfectly fine with no crank end play measuring and torque wrench.
Zo mooi om te zien. Nostalgie voor mij. Ik kocht voor 300 gulden in '79 mijn eerste 4TL uit '72, dat was toen een hele goede keus, achteraf, want daar werd je nooit mee aangehouden. Dus meteen maar een 5-bak van gemaakt, 15mm bing en een dikke-bocht-uitlaat uit Yougoslavie en een 14 tands voorstandwiel. Liep met gemak 70 en trok ook vlot door de 5de.
Toen bestonden ze eigenlijk nog niet, voor brommers en motoren. Maar wat zouden wij toen blij geweest zijn met de huidige elektronische ontstekingen. Koppelingen trokken we nooit kapot want we haalde max 6 of 7 pk met onze 50cc-tjes, ook nog best wel knap, met de middelen van toen. Wij hadden weer een ander probleem met de 4TL....de achterbrug. Die trokken altijd krom.
Great build. Tomos is one the greatest product of Yugoslavia (peace times). Cheap ,easy to maintain, easy to increase the performance and still holds fairly well. i have got the BT50 , nice frame and the 50cc engine with that perfectly tuned gearbox goes very well.
@@crf80fdarkdays Yougo is made in the Serbian part of the country ,not very good . They just design the frame ,the engine is from Fiat. But Tomos has been made in Slovenia,everything is designd inhouse.
When I was in 10th grade I took my puch moped engine to metal shop. I put a Jawa 50 top end on it and it screamed. 52 on flat ground. Had a small rear sprocket and a carb from a 80. Tm 75 front end. It was fast and fun. Over 60 down the bridge going to the beach.
good work, but 2 things to consider in my point of view: 1) dont ice the bearings. heating the seats in the engine should be enough. SKF says, that icing the bearings and putting them in a heatet seat may cause micro-cracks! 2) when tightning the casing bolts, its preferable to first tighten down those around the crank where deformation and warping has the biggest impact. the crank bearings are the most stressed of all your bearings with the lowest lubrication. the gearbox bearings can mush more easily compensate inaccuracies! for your consideration :) nevertheless: great video!
Remember those Tomos in the UK,early 1980s. Never could compete with the Fizzies,AP 50s and Puch Maxis for the Sixteener moped market where image and street cred was everything lol!
Tomos mopeds were sold by Woolworths! I think you placed an order, and then the moped was delivered to your house as a partially assembled kit that had to be finished. I had a Fizzy though, so never paid the Tomos that much attention.
@@Tomology had an ‘83 (maybe 86?) bullet that I got when I turned 18 that I rebuilt with an A35. I took it around the block, let my dad have a go, then my buddy who helped me, who didn’t make it 6 feet before tipping over and grenadine everything. I must’ve rebuilt that trans 4 times and I never REALLY got it running right again, so I got rid of it a couple years ago. I felt like I never found good info on these bikes ANYWHERE… until now. Maybe I’ll hunt it down and see if I can’t get it back…
@@zgrb ah a few years ago I haven't even touched a Tomos ;) Info enough out there, sometimes you have to dig deep into the internet to find what you seek! Do it, get one again they are fun :)
Amazing dedication to detail😁👌 wokring on my alpino currently, i'll make sure to follow your lubrication steps.. i didnt do it well when i first put it together gotta go fix it ;D
Imam u ormaru - 20 god stoji - novi blokovi , lezajevi , penta cilindar kosi usis , kanali sireni polirani , Dellorto 24 , 5 brzina , zamasnjak tokaren i olaksan , olaksan magnet paljenja..... Upalio , podesio , provozao i skinuo pa u vitrinu ....zvali su me bolesnik LOL Nice work BTW
@@Yuri_Bodlovic Znas kak ide sa time - moja sva ljubav dok sam bio klinac napokon slozena da stoji u vitrini Mozda i prodam mozda i ne....trebalo bi me OPAKO nagovarat ;-))
@@Moto_Waters I'm from the Netherlands. the model 4L was specifically for the dutch market I believe in the 60's and 70's. I don't know if similar models are in the US too. In Slovenia these engines are common and the model name is APN
@@Moto_Waters I'm from Finland, and a local moped company called solifer used these engines from 1974 through to 1986 on the model solifer SM. It's a pretty good engine, I wish you some luck finding one over there.
Changing the crank bearings to bearings that are 12 mm instead of 10 mm, means that the bearing on the drive side now are wider than the part of the crank intended for the bearing. that means that the clutch basket gets 2 mm further out on the crank axle.... How did you deal with that? Is there room for placing the clutch basket in the new position 2 mm out on axle? One would think the clutch would bottom out in the basket since it has no means of getting out in the outer bearing in the transmission case. Also, when making the seats for the bearing 2 mm deeper, how does that affect the sealings in the case, are there still enough material to make the seals sit tight?
Correct, the crank has 10mm to fit the bearing so the bearing itself has 2mm of space where it doesn't fit snug around the crank. There usually is a thick 1.5-2mm shim between the crank bearing and the clutch basket. I removed it. The clutch itself doesn't bottom out in the basket. Yes there is still plenty room for the seals to sit tight.
Yes. It's called measuring the squish band. It is a piece of tin wire that compresses and measures the thickness of the squish. If the gap is too big or small detonation and other unhappy things can occur and it would not perform as well as with a good tolerance.
as a rule, roller bearings should go on the left side of the magnet, where it creates the most load. They are expensive, but you don't have to worry about them becoming loose.great content,as still making mistakes i get better evertime next!
umh, joo. Met een geprinte center het center zoeken? dan zou ik zeker nog even de taster erop uitklokken. heel heel gevaarlijk voor al je onderdelen wat je daar doet. Het risico op een zeer zeer on uitgelijnde krukas is zeer groot en de kans op een zwaar vibrerend motorblok is ook zwaar aanwezig.
Als je de strakke passing zo maakt, dan krijg je dat dingen niet uitgelijnd zijn. In dit geval heb ik 2mm materiaal van de onderkant weggehaald zodat de vaste lager er in past. De originele 10mm strakke passing is niet aangetast en daardoor is alles uitgelijnd en is er ook geen risico op schade :)
Nee spoelpoorten komen ook niet overeen. Er is wat oplassen of epoxy werk voor nodig. In een eerdere video is het te zien: th-cam.com/video/LDog08KCOYQ/w-d-xo.html
Kudos to you for your effort and work... this was done very professionally. Is it possible to know the diameter of the piston because at least from the video it looks much bigger and how many cubic meters it is at the end. I would appreciate an answer. Greetings.
This is awesome! I have a 1995 sprint and the part I hate most is the 2 speed transmission. I live in the US, is it possible to get parts to convert it?
thanks! it's a complete different engine than the 2 speed automatic. I don't think they ever got to the US. this one is from a 60's or 70's Tomos 4L Dutch model. in the Balkan countries these engines are more common, maybe you can import one from there?! A swap with a sprint frame isn't easy though
If you want to lube aluminium -> alcohol. Because removing material causes heat and heat makes alu sticky. Oil dosnt work but ethanol cools the material down. I use the same as I put in my burner for my camping cooking stove. Isopropyl alcohol or denatured alcohol ... Should help with grinding down that engine block.
good one! I have thought about that. I had squish related detonation issues and this fixed it. Port timing is a bit lower now, but it can always be ported to spec if needed
Hello!! I am in the terrible old USA. UNFORTUNATELY we didn’t get the apn engines :( do you know someone or where I could buy a apn engine for my Tomos to do a rebuild and then swap it in to my tomos? I have been searching absolutely everywhere and nothing. Help would be MUCH appreciated!!
Hi! That's unfortunate. Over here in the Netherlands they are kind of rare too. Best option for you to look at is the Balkans. That is where Tomos originally came from and the apn, atx, slc etc. engines are common over there.
Nee helaas niet. Er zijn flinke aanpassingen nodig aan het frame o.a. bredere blok ophanging, ander bout patroon, andere achterbrugophanging, ketting uitlijning etc.
El rectificado de los alojamientos de los rulemanes no se hace así, se tiene que hacer con los dos carteres unidos se trabaja con una barra que contiene la cuchilla y de esa forma quedan lis dos exactamente alineados.
Yeah the bell cnc-ed, performance parts, expensive hobby. Nice idea with 3D printed centering cone, brave man cutting into the casing like that, but absolutely cool. Mooi gedaan man 👍 by the way, the English term for anti-stuck is anti-seize, copper grease is good but the US product “never seez” is way better for these applications, also exhaust bolts and nuts. Thx for the vid
yep expensive it is. I tried the cutting first with an old casing and that made it less scary. anti-seize it is. send me one of those "never seez" please ;) thanks for watching, really appreciate it!
@@Tomology Hi, nice channel ! Nice videos ! Anti-Seize: You have in Loctite range (in better bearing shops is available) several Anti-Seize products. For Aluminium is not reccomanded to use copper (can come to corrosion), use alu or ceramic base. Super video, Greeting from Hungary
L17 bearing are actually better than 6203. But! Installing L17 is very challenging and you need to know how to make appropriate clearance better crank and bearing. This is why your L17 has been destroyed so quickly. I have Tomos 15 slc and it has 23k on the clock, still original L17 bearings. And SLC has 6hp stock.
a motorcycle builder on youtube who actually knows how to insert a bearing in its housing! wow! that's a first :) ... i tell ya, i saw troglodytes "resize" bearings on a lathe, or with a drimmle! , others hammer the inside bearing race, i'm sure there are more atrocities that my brain decided to just block.
@@Tomology I mean, what is the size of the piston, is it 38 or 42 or is it an L piston, I am interested in such things because I have an ATX engine in the garage that I want to bring back to life if you understand me, not only the piston but also which carburetor is good for him and the like, but I've already learned a lot...
@@alanpo4373 the piston diameter is 47mm instead of the stock 38mm. with this power gain you need to upgrade the atx block internals too. for this cc size a 20mm carb is a minimum. you could use 21, 24 or even 28mm
well why noot to buy block with 12mm place for bearings? in balcan somebody can sell you them for 20-30 euros? complete engine 50-80 euros? did you shure the clutch will work? for that kind of clutch cup you need different clutch and different (new type) clutch cover........
cause I live in the Netherlands and it's not the easiest thing finding used parts in the Balkan area. clutch works fine. this clutch housing works with both the old type and new type clutches
New two-stroke project suggestions? Let me know!
Try to find an Tomos e90 or Tomos ctx 80 engine they are 90 and 80cc engines,when Tuned they can to to up to 150kmh
150km/h 🤣
@@tinkovacevic4716 što,kada staviš klip 50mm da bude 100cc,i još malo kemijanja oko auspuha,prijenosa, karburatora i aerodinamičnih plastika možeš postići 150kmh
E90 cilindar treba piksirat neda se busiti tako da ima kemije dosta da se stavi veci klip.. a dostic 150km/h treba mu vise kubika i snage.. pa 125ice jedva nategnu 150-160km/h
@@tinkovacevic4716 i to što kažeš,teško je ali nije nemoguće
Finally someone who can build and knows how to film it properly. Normally those two do not go hand in hand. 10/10
Go watch twostrokestuffing. There's another for you 😉
@@rastapuswelling absolutely!
@bacorableYeah! Use torque wrench for everything even for a valve stem caps
Let the man have fun with his own bike, it’s not a racing bike by any mean,And the most important thing is the bike is working perfectly fine with no crank end play measuring and torque wrench.
babe wake up, New tomology video out!
😂😂
sandhed
Zo mooi om te zien. Nostalgie voor mij.
Ik kocht voor 300 gulden in '79 mijn eerste 4TL uit '72, dat was toen een hele goede keus, achteraf, want daar werd je nooit mee aangehouden.
Dus meteen maar een 5-bak van gemaakt, 15mm bing en een dikke-bocht-uitlaat uit Yougoslavie en een 14 tands voorstandwiel.
Liep met gemak 70 en trok ook vlot door de 5de.
Toen bestonden ze eigenlijk nog niet, voor brommers en motoren. Maar wat zouden wij toen blij geweest zijn met de huidige elektronische ontstekingen.
Koppelingen trokken we nooit kapot want we haalde max 6 of 7 pk met onze 50cc-tjes, ook nog best wel knap, met de middelen van toen.
Wij hadden weer een ander probleem met de 4TL....de achterbrug. Die trokken altijd krom.
Great build. Tomos is one the greatest product of Yugoslavia (peace times). Cheap ,easy to maintain, easy to increase the performance and still holds fairly well. i have got the BT50 , nice frame and the 50cc engine with that perfectly tuned gearbox goes very well.
Yygo
Yugo, give me one please
@@crf80fdarkdays Yougo is made in the Serbian part of the country ,not very good . They just design the frame ,the engine is from Fiat. But Tomos has been made in Slovenia,everything is designd inhouse.
This is so therapeutic 😌. Thank you for taking the time to create such beautiful content. Great work! 👍
thank you for the positive feedback!
Quality video edit and amazing engine build ! Very nice 👍🏻
thanks!
2:01 ahhh, I love to see bearings pop in like that. Lovely!
Did not know tomos made a 5 speed very cool , I've been think about getting a Tomo's ,wish they were still making them,great little machines
When I was in 10th grade I took my puch moped engine to metal shop. I put a Jawa 50 top end on it and it screamed. 52 on flat ground. Had a small rear sprocket and a carb from a 80. Tm 75 front end. It was fast and fun. Over 60 down the bridge going to the beach.
good work, but 2 things to consider in my point of view: 1) dont ice the bearings. heating the seats in the engine should be enough. SKF says, that icing the bearings and putting them in a heatet seat may cause micro-cracks! 2) when tightning the casing bolts, its preferable to first tighten down those around the crank where deformation and warping has the biggest impact. the crank bearings are the most stressed of all your bearings with the lowest lubrication. the gearbox bearings can mush more easily compensate inaccuracies! for your consideration :) nevertheless: great video!
great chanel a good tomos mechanic and a good filmer usualy dont go together you are almost one of a kind
Nice work, it was so cool, seeing how you transformed this engine to a reliable screamer!
Remember those Tomos in the UK,early 1980s. Never could compete with the Fizzies,AP 50s and Puch Maxis for the Sixteener moped market where image and street cred was everything lol!
Tomos mopeds were sold by Woolworths! I think you placed an order, and then the moped was delivered to your house as a partially assembled kit that had to be finished. I had a Fizzy though, so never paid the Tomos that much attention.
Very good work, friend, the modification is really impressive
dobro si to srijedio taj motor, svaka cast 💪💪💪
Excelente motor , me encantó!. Quality video edit and amazing engine build ! Very nice .
WHERE WAS THIS CHANNEL WHEN I NEEDED IT
when did you need it?!
@@Tomology had an ‘83 (maybe 86?) bullet that I got when I turned 18 that I rebuilt with an A35. I took it around the block, let my dad have a go, then my buddy who helped me, who didn’t make it 6 feet before tipping over and grenadine everything. I must’ve rebuilt that trans 4 times and I never REALLY got it running right again, so I got rid of it a couple years ago. I felt like I never found good info on these bikes ANYWHERE… until now. Maybe I’ll hunt it down and see if I can’t get it back…
@@zgrb ah a few years ago I haven't even touched a Tomos ;) Info enough out there, sometimes you have to dig deep into the internet to find what you seek! Do it, get one again they are fun :)
Wow. What a beautiful build. I love it.
Thank you!
Amazing dedication to detail😁👌 wokring on my alpino currently, i'll make sure to follow your lubrication steps.. i didnt do it well when i first put it together gotta go fix it ;D
I used to “glue” the gasket/gasket material onto the casting or whatever with Gaskacinch, then trim it with a fresh-bladed Xacto knife.
These were amazing bikes
Imam u ormaru - 20 god stoji - novi blokovi , lezajevi , penta cilindar kosi usis , kanali sireni polirani , Dellorto 24 , 5 brzina , zamasnjak tokaren i olaksan , olaksan magnet paljenja..... Upalio , podesio , provozao i skinuo pa u vitrinu ....zvali su me bolesnik LOL Nice work BTW
broj tel?
@@Yuri_Bodlovic Znas kak ide sa time - moja sva ljubav dok sam bio klinac napokon slozena da stoji u vitrini Mozda i prodam mozda i ne....trebalo bi me OPAKO nagovarat ;-))
Nice work an executed perfectly!🎉
👍👍 2 stroke heaven smelling cazzy’r , nice video
Well done, love the tomos engine!
Let's go!! I've been thinking about building one for so long and I just bought an engine!
Where can you find one of these engines?
have some luck second hand. mine is from a Tomos 4L donor moped
I don't know where you're located but I am in Ohio and have never seen a 4L tomos. It would be amazing to get one.
@@Moto_Waters I'm from the Netherlands. the model 4L was specifically for the dutch market I believe in the 60's and 70's. I don't know if similar models are in the US too. In Slovenia these engines are common and the model name is APN
@@Moto_Waters I'm from Finland, and a local moped company called solifer used these engines from 1974 through to 1986 on the model solifer SM. It's a pretty good engine, I wish you some luck finding one over there.
Great filming 10/10
Unique build! I like it! :)
thanks!
The music reminds me of Kula Shaker - awesome! Who is it?
it's music from the youtube audio library. the songs are visible in the discription!
Nice bike dude 😊
thank you!
Do you have the design files for the subframe available?
No sorry I have not
Changing the crank bearings to bearings that are 12 mm instead of 10 mm, means that the bearing on the drive side now are wider than the part of the crank intended for the bearing. that means that the clutch basket gets 2 mm further out on the crank axle.... How did you deal with that? Is there room for placing the clutch basket in the new position 2 mm out on axle? One would think the clutch would bottom out in the basket since it has no means of getting out in the outer bearing in the transmission case. Also, when making the seats for the bearing 2 mm deeper, how does that affect the sealings in the case, are there still enough material to make the seals sit tight?
Correct, the crank has 10mm to fit the bearing so the bearing itself has 2mm of space where it doesn't fit snug around the crank. There usually is a thick 1.5-2mm shim between the crank bearing and the clutch basket. I removed it. The clutch itself doesn't bottom out in the basket. Yes there is still plenty room for the seals to sit tight.
What was that last bit with thw twisted wire . Checking a tolerance? Can you explain that a bit
Yes. It's called measuring the squish band. It is a piece of tin wire that compresses and measures the thickness of the squish. If the gap is too big or small detonation and other unhappy things can occur and it would not perform as well as with a good tolerance.
as a rule, roller bearings should go on the left side of the magnet, where it creates the most load. They are expensive, but you don't have to worry about them becoming loose.great content,as still making mistakes i get better evertime next!
Sounds like trouble 🤙🏼🔥🔥
where do you buy the tuning things from?
How come your bearing goes on the crankshaft so easy? Have you sanded the shaft?
I would not recommend sanding the shaft. The crank is made slide fit tolerance for the bearing.
umh, joo. Met een geprinte center het center zoeken? dan zou ik zeker nog even de taster erop uitklokken. heel heel gevaarlijk voor al je onderdelen wat je daar doet. Het risico op een zeer zeer on uitgelijnde krukas is zeer groot en de kans op een zwaar vibrerend motorblok is ook zwaar aanwezig.
Als je de strakke passing zo maakt, dan krijg je dat dingen niet uitgelijnd zijn. In dit geval heb ik 2mm materiaal van de onderkant weggehaald zodat de vaste lager er in past. De originele 10mm strakke passing is niet aangetast en daardoor is alles uitgelijnd en is er ook geen risico op schade :)
Very nice build.
Thanks for sharing.
I subscribed to your channel.
Take care, EM.
thank you!
Behalve het uitkotteren, pasde de cillinder een beetje? Komen de spoelpoorten van puch cillinders een beetje overeen met die van de apn
Nee spoelpoorten komen ook niet overeen. Er is wat oplassen of epoxy werk voor nodig. In een eerdere video is het te zien: th-cam.com/video/LDog08KCOYQ/w-d-xo.html
Oh oke, bedankt voor het antwoord
En paste het blok meteen op de flexer of zijn de ophangbeugels ook aangepast?
Wil een 4l blok monteren op een a35
DIOOOOOSS. jaula de agujas de acero en el bulón del pistón métele de plata!!!! el resto un buena preparación.
If I may ask, what did the build cost for this engine?
I'm not exactly sure, but over 1000 euros
@@Tomology wow! That’s like all my mopeds combined nlt even
where to buy adjustable boring head pleas let me know
Where did you get the rito crankshaft?
At a local shop. I believe they are not available anymore
Nice tricks To use 3d center finder 😉👍
Thank you. How much horsepower should it have now ? Thanks.
I have no idea. I guess between 8 and 12hp
@@Tomology Thank you 🙂
do you have links when i can buy crankshift and mbt syste,and arisal kit? thanks :D
Kudos to you for your effort and work... this was done very professionally. Is it possible to know the diameter of the piston because at least from the video it looks much bigger and how many cubic meters it is at the end. I would appreciate an answer. Greetings.
thanks! the piston diameter is 47mm
@@Tomology Thanks..
Nice video! 👍👍
Where did You buy adjustable boring tool?
And Freezespray, what did You use?
Propane probably
I know the amount of work, for engine assembly and recording/editing the video, beautiful👍
Eccoti qua😂
@@iltutt0f4r35 TH-cam me lo ha proposto e l'ho guardato👍😁
With what do you freeze bearing on crank shaft, excellent build, greathings from Srbija
thanks! it's a slide fitment on the crank
Gebruiken deze blokken een schakelhandvat?
Nee, deze zijn voetgeschakeld!
This is awesome! I have a 1995 sprint and the part I hate most is the 2 speed transmission. I live in the US, is it possible to get parts to convert it?
thanks! it's a complete different engine than the 2 speed automatic. I don't think they ever got to the US. this one is from a 60's or 70's Tomos 4L Dutch model. in the Balkan countries these engines are more common, maybe you can import one from there?! A swap with a sprint frame isn't easy though
i can sell you one if you want 5 speed
@@Yuri_Bodlovic where are you located? I think shipping overseas would be very expensive. Might just sell my tomos now that I have a motorcycle
@@loganjorgensen669 croatia europe...ita depends what you need
Do be sure to keep the two speed engine or sell it to an enthusiast, they're getting rarer these days.
If you want to lube aluminium -> alcohol.
Because removing material causes heat and heat makes alu sticky. Oil dosnt work but ethanol cools the material down. I use the same as I put in my burner for my camping cooking stove. Isopropyl alcohol or denatured alcohol ... Should help with grinding down that engine block.
What is the reason of setting ignition directly at TDC shouldn’t be that at 0.37mm before TDC for MVT ignition?
the manual says directly at tdc is 1.5mm pre ignition. it's a base setting and you can fine tune it when it's needed
@@Tomology thank you, i was wondering that, i found a lot of diferent information and wasn’t sure what is the right one.. thez have bad manuals
@@nikdusak3105 yup, I had to translate it from a French a4 sheet that came with it. not the clearest manual out there indeed
Where do i get all the parts in this video i want to build this engine for my dirt bike
very nice build!
thank you!
Sanding the deck to get a tighter squish clearance, but what about the ports that get lower too?
good one! I have thought about that. I had squish related detonation issues and this fixed it. Port timing is a bit lower now, but it can always be ported to spec if needed
@@Tomology My man! 👏
You gain intake duration but lose some exhaust. But the gain in compression will make up for it.
Nice work
Hello!! I am in the terrible old USA. UNFORTUNATELY we didn’t get the apn engines :( do you know someone or where I could buy a apn engine for my Tomos to do a rebuild and then swap it in to my tomos? I have been searching absolutely everywhere and nothing. Help would be MUCH appreciated!!
Hi! That's unfortunate. Over here in the Netherlands they are kind of rare too. Best option for you to look at is the Balkans. That is where Tomos originally came from and the apn, atx, slc etc. engines are common over there.
Past dat blok gwn onder a35 frames?
Nee helaas niet. Er zijn flinke aanpassingen nodig aan het frame o.a. bredere blok ophanging, ander bout patroon, andere achterbrugophanging, ketting uitlijning etc.
Waar heb je die koppelingskorf vandaan?
geïmporteerd uit Slovenië
@@Tomology heb je daar een website van ofzo?
ur from slovenija right? what model of rito racing is that?
I'm from the Netherlands. Had a hard time finding a rito crank for this engine. I don't know the exact model
@@Tomology well there is a new one wich lunched rn😁u order ur parts from where?
@@2smokes I got it 1.5 years ago locally
@@Tomology i mean all parts that are for tomos
@@2smokes all locally except the clutch housing. I got that from slovenia
i would recomend investing in a dile gauge for preignition
mooi ! ik zie aan je filmpjes dat je in de buurt woont ;-). Ik ben bezig met een D6.
nice, voor op de straat?
@@Tomology nee demoracen. (Doe ik ook al met een Kreidler en een Pannonia (250cc)). Maar Tomos is nog lang niet klaar.
@@mktz33 mooie hobby!
What type of oil is in gearbox?
sae30
zdravo zanima me keri kit je najbolsi za apn 6
El rectificado de los alojamientos de los rulemanes no se hace así, se tiene que hacer con los dos carteres unidos se trabaja con una barra que contiene la cuchilla y de esa forma quedan lis dos exactamente alineados.
I kept the original fitment and made just a bit room for the wider bearing. the bearings are still in the original position
where did you get that exhaust?
it's custom build
Wacht past zo'n blok ook onder een a35 of niet?
met heel veel aanpassingen past alles! ;) gemakkelijk is het helaas niet
@@Tomology ah oké, thx! Leuke video
@@meesvanderkooij1356 bedankt!
Yeah the bell cnc-ed, performance parts, expensive hobby. Nice idea with 3D printed centering cone, brave man cutting into the casing like that, but absolutely cool. Mooi gedaan man 👍 by the way, the English term for anti-stuck is anti-seize, copper grease is good but the US product “never seez” is way better for these applications, also exhaust bolts and nuts. Thx for the vid
yep expensive it is. I tried the cutting first with an old casing and that made it less scary. anti-seize it is. send me one of those "never seez" please ;) thanks for watching, really appreciate it!
@@Tomology Hi, nice channel ! Nice videos ! Anti-Seize: You have in Loctite range (in better bearing shops is available) several Anti-Seize products. For Aluminium is not reccomanded to use copper (can come to corrosion), use alu or ceramic base. Super video, Greeting from Hungary
no shimming needed for this engine?
yes but it was done the first time I built it
@@Tomology if my kick is feeling like its a cr500 is it shimmer wrong
@@Tomology and do you have any tips on how to shim cant find anything
nice & good job.....👉👍👍👍😇
thanks!
En nu wok pakken 🫡, heel mooi gemaakt dit! Wat is de topsnelheid?
nee nee ;) thanks, geen idee nog hoe hard hij kan
Llo tengo huna drevi varían que flipas Bravo 💪💪💪
How much faster are you than a Tomos A35 auto 2 spd? I don't even think we ever got these motors in USA.
a bit faster for sure. don't know exactly how much. these engines are pretty rare here in the Netherlands. in Slovenia they are common
L17 bearing are actually better than 6203. But! Installing L17 is very challenging and you need to know how to make appropriate clearance better crank and bearing. This is why your L17 has been destroyed so quickly. I have Tomos 15 slc and it has 23k on the clock, still original L17 bearings. And SLC has 6hp stock.
It is challenging indeed. I tried multiple times, but I guess I was off. One more drawback is that they cost three times as much as the 6203.
@@Tomology Yes that is true, but NTN does make drop in one piece replacements for L17. NTN TM-SC03A53C3 is catalog number. Still pretty expensive :D
Такие подшипники я впервые применил на ,,яве,,350 в ..86 г.
Его можно регулировать!
За счет колец прокладок.
Where did you get that clutch bell?
imported from slovenia
Excelente motor , me encantó!
That centering tool
Typical Dutch :) but only a Dutch person would recognise that.
Cool stuff!
a motorcycle builder on youtube who actually knows how to insert a bearing in its housing! wow! that's a first :) ... i tell ya, i saw troglodytes "resize" bearings on a lathe, or with a drimmle! , others hammer the inside bearing race, i'm sure there are more atrocities that my brain decided to just block.
great vid
What size clip is it?
what do you mean with 'clip'?
@@Tomology I mean, what is the size of the piston, is it 38 or 42 or is it an L piston, I am interested in such things because I have an ATX engine in the garage that I want to bring back to life if you understand me, not only the piston but also which carburetor is good for him and the like, but I've already learned a lot...
@@alanpo4373 the piston diameter is 47mm instead of the stock 38mm. with this power gain you need to upgrade the atx block internals too. for this cc size a 20mm carb is a minimum. you could use 21, 24 or even 28mm
In my shed sleeps a Tomos colibri that would need some sunshine.....
Let's go give it some deserved sunshine!
Dam music made me wanna eat a handful of mushrooms
Engine oil was 400 ML?
yes
Где можно купить? Подскажите пожайлуста!
Onde consigo um motor desses?
Ik ga er nu een snelle 50 van een bt opzetten
А почему цапфы коленвала,так легко влетели в потшибник???
well why noot to buy block with 12mm place for bearings? in balcan somebody can sell you them for 20-30 euros? complete engine 50-80 euros?
did you shure the clutch will work? for that kind of clutch cup you need different clutch and different (new type) clutch cover........
cause I live in the Netherlands and it's not the easiest thing finding used parts in the Balkan area. clutch works fine. this clutch housing works with both the old type and new type clutches
this bike is interesting😮 do ride with this bike
thanks! riding vid soon!
What this allumage?
mvt premium
Respectivul lucreaza cu jumatati de masura, sunt masini unelte de precizie pentru asemenea prelucrari.
Coulda' swore that it was the transmission that determined how many speeds the vehicle uses.
That's correct!
First time watching & I'm just a minute watching & I'm off. Using a drill press as a mill. LMFAO.
if it works it works xD
You can't do that with a bench top drill press. Can you? Hahahaha
well, you can! only for making space tho, not a precise fitment.