A few minor points. #1: Spray the caliper with brake cleaner before you push the pistons back in. Don't want crud chewing up the caliper bores. #2: I find it easier if you fit the outside pad first and use the locking pin to hold it while you fit the outside pad. The push the caliper in. #3: After pads are in make sure the pads are in right by making sure the rear wheel turns easily. #4: Don't forget to pump the brakes front and rear to seat the pads against the rotor.
Great Video.. One thing I had a issue with previously, after you think you have the pads in properly and before completely snugging the pin down, check driver / left side pad make sure its in the holder and not over hanging the rotor as mine was and wore incorrectly. felt correct going in and line up for the pin...even drove and stopped ok. I only noticed it when I took the back tire off to change. I had to struggle a bit get the new pad lined up for the pin in its holder.... slight tap with a heavy object did the trick..
Excellent video; I pull that muffler off, it only has one bolt and two clamp bolts and off it comes and you then have a world of room. Once the muffler is off I put some anti-seize on the bolts and just inside the pipe where the muffler slides on, this makes it super easy next time. I pulled one off that had been on for 17 years and just had to wiggle it a little to get it. Get some nitrile gloves and protect your hands from all that crap...
Ive been a jet turbine mechanic for 30 years and my pad change on my f6b went NOTHING like this video..i could not get enough of a gap on the left side of the rotor to insert new brake pads no matter WHAT i tried. I wound up disassembling everything sticking the pads on, then reinstalling rhe caliper. Over an hour and lots of cussing.
Thanks again, John. I just watched the video on the front brakes as well. Super simple. Just out of curiosity, would it help at all to take the cover off the master cylinders when doing this?
Hello John Tyler, my name is Fernando Rivera. I would like some advice from you. Where do I put a floor jack on my Honda gL1800 motorcycle? I look forward to your response. Thank you very much. Your videos are excellent. Congratulations.
Real simple NO. I have a Honda 2008 Goldwing I removed front pads but it took me a long time because there are 3 cylinders that have to be pushed back. Screwdriver method worked on fronts but getting all 3 cylinders back enough was dificult but eventually worked. Rear was a diferent story. They are thicker pads. I could get lowest & middle cylinder pushed back but top cylinder would not go back enouigh to install new pads. I could put the old pads back in which I did. I gave up after several hours. To the Honda shop I go with old rear brakes to be replaced.
What a bummer. I hate it when I am deep into a job only to find out that I can't finish it for some reason and have to put it all back together again to bring it to my mechanic.
If you have abs,DO NOT...DO NOT just push the calipers open without opening the bleeder screw or you WILL push dirty fluid right back into the anti-lock servo and it will be FUBAR=$$$$.....Chevy trucks are extremely sensitive to this and those units are $2500.00....Use the bleeder screw ,Boys..
I have watched 5 proffessional certified Honda Goldwing mechanics doing brake jobs on 1800's they all do it exactly the same way and not one of them mentions this....perhaps this is a Chevy thing.
A few minor points.
#1: Spray the caliper with brake cleaner before you push the pistons back in. Don't want crud chewing up the caliper bores.
#2: I find it easier if you fit the outside pad first and use the locking pin to hold it while you fit the outside pad. The push the caliper in.
#3: After pads are in make sure the pads are in right by making sure the rear wheel turns easily.
#4: Don't forget to pump the brakes front and rear to seat the pads against the rotor.
Great Video.. One thing I had a issue with previously, after you think you have the pads in properly and before completely snugging the pin down, check driver / left side pad make sure its in the holder and not over hanging the rotor as mine was and wore incorrectly. felt correct going in and line up for the pin...even drove and stopped ok. I only noticed it when I took the back tire off to change. I had to struggle a bit get the new pad lined up for the pin in its holder.... slight tap with a heavy object did the trick..
Excellent video; I pull that muffler off, it only has one bolt and two clamp bolts and off it comes and you then have a world of room. Once the muffler is off I put some anti-seize on the bolts and just inside the pipe where the muffler slides on, this makes it super easy next time. I pulled one off that had been on for 17 years and just had to wiggle it a little to get it.
Get some nitrile gloves and protect your hands from all that crap...
Ive been a jet turbine mechanic for 30 years and my pad change on my f6b went NOTHING like this video..i could not get enough of a gap on the left side of the rotor to insert new brake pads no matter WHAT i tried. I wound up disassembling everything sticking the pads on, then reinstalling rhe caliper. Over an hour and lots of cussing.
Wish the Air Filter was that easy
Thanks again, John. I just watched the video on the front brakes as well. Super simple. Just out of curiosity, would it help at all to take the cover off the master cylinders when doing this?
You forgot to turn the lights on. 🙂
Hello John Tyler, my name is Fernando Rivera. I would like some advice from you. Where do I put a floor jack on my Honda gL1800 motorcycle? I look forward to your response. Thank you very much. Your videos are excellent. Congratulations.
Real simple NO. I have a Honda 2008 Goldwing I removed front pads but it took me a long time because there are 3 cylinders that have to be pushed back. Screwdriver method worked on fronts but getting all 3 cylinders back enough was dificult but eventually worked. Rear was a diferent story. They are thicker pads. I could get lowest & middle cylinder pushed back but top cylinder would not go back enouigh to install new pads. I could put the old pads back in which I did. I gave up after several hours. To the Honda shop I go with old rear brakes to be replaced.
What a bummer. I hate it when I am deep into a job only to find out that I can't finish it for some reason and have to put it all back together again to bring it to my mechanic.
If you have abs,DO NOT...DO NOT just push the calipers open without opening the bleeder screw or you WILL push dirty fluid right back into the anti-lock servo and it will be FUBAR=$$$$.....Chevy trucks are extremely sensitive to this and those units are $2500.00....Use the bleeder screw ,Boys..
Thanks for the heads up! 👍
I have watched 5 proffessional certified Honda Goldwing mechanics doing brake jobs on 1800's they all do it exactly the same way and not one of them mentions this....perhaps this is a Chevy thing.
Do you have a video for rear brake replacement on 2018 Goldwing DCT?
Where is your video on bleeding the brakes? I have a 2004 gl1800
Is my 2015 Gold Wing the same as the 2007 you just demonstrated?
I believe you have the wrong part number listed written under the picture of the pads. It should be 06435-MCA-026.
Good catch! We have the right number later on in the video, and we'll make a note in the description.
I think is the best design on Honda goldwing because is not easy work on a goldwing
Great Job.
Do you have any video how to replace the switch start/stop on a Gold Wing Gl1800 2001?
Would this replacement process work for a 2000 Goldwing 1500 Trike?
Brakes aren't workng well. How do i know if its glazed pads or rotors?
Excellent video
Hi
How can I reach the rear tyre abs sensor?
great video! Do you guys have one for bleeding the brakes on the GL1800?
Not yet, but it's on the to-do list!
What's the problem when the rear brake locks up??
Gruß aus Deutschland nices video
Mallu traveller paranjit vannadh
Do you have bleeding video on gl1800