У вас самое лучшее видео по за точке цепей!!! Много всего пересмотрел. У самого нет пилы, но я точу иногда на заказ на простом китайском наждачке, диском от болгарки 1 мм. Просто я знаю как работает резец. А сейчас заказал подобный станок с Алиэкспресс, в течении месяца должны доставить. Единственно, я сразу сделал для него стойку, как у Oregon. Я живу в обычной квартире и чтобы не занимать место на столе, могу эту стойку поставить везде где удобно, могу на балкон. Приподнял её, ножки сами складываются и поставил в любой угол на хранение.
Very nice! Exactly what I needed to get a grasp of the operation. We just got a 620-120, and I have never worked with one. Old school hand sharpening until now. This covered a lot. I agree with the end result being the definer of your own tactics. This video shows how it works, and out simply. Applying knowledged and experience with chains I'm sure I can master it in no time. Thanks! This video saved me a lot of flipping back and forth from diagrams to explanations, exactly what I was looking for. Now our hundreds of dull chains laying in buckets can see some life again. Thanks for putting this together. A huge time saver and showed me just about all I needed for basic operation. Now it's time to have fun and develope a technique. Great tutorial, thank you.
Thanks for the feedback. For years I worked with a tree service in northern California. Every sunday night we would service 20 saws for the work week ahead. So I've sharpened a lot of chains. you may want to look at my vid on setting the depth gauges. The level and angle of the depth gauges is just as important as the cutters. Good luck, it's good that you have a lot of old chains to practice with.
@@charlesrandle7915 definitely will thanks for the heads up. Yeah it is going to be a trial and error type of process, and yes, im happy we have a ton of chains that wouldnt matter if they got destroyed (though i dont see that happening.) But yes, the depth and angles is definitely where i know "the feel" for the machine and the eye comes into play. I will definitely check those videos out for sure! I prefer to take advice from professionals with experience, such as yourself, rather than a generic manual ( though the manual is very well put together and very in depth). I just learn better by watching people who provide reasons why theyre doing what they are doing. I also dont have much experience, or i should say knowlege of specific chains, size and depth etc. So they many practice chains should definitely come in handy. Were a 4man crew outside of Philadelphia and my boss has invested in a lot of equipment the past 3 yrs so i have been learning 1 piece at a time from mini skids to crane work. Came from 1 whisper chipper to 3 bandits, 3 stumpers, skid, mini skid with grapple, crane, amd everything in-between. TH-cam has been so helpful thanks to people such as yourself. I subbed to your page and look forward to checking out those other grinder videos, as well as others you have. Im a fiend for knowledge lol. Thanks a bunch, much appreciated.
Not sure why people are chirping you in the comments for bringing the wheel down too hard . . . everything in the video was very informative and helpful. Thank you.
Great video. Does your grinder switch operate wheel direction clock wise and anti clockwise? If not do you get a burr? I see some grinders have the ability to change the angle on the chain clamp vice example 10 degrees. Appears Stihl setting is zero degrees. When hand filing I notice people not filing flat. Filing up into the tooth. Your thoughts? Thank you. I now have a chain grinder and find right cutters are longer than the left. Do you know if there is a fix to obtain even sizes to right and left cutters approximately 50 thou longer on left cutters. Maybe its the relationship between the chain guide and centre line of grinding disc? Maybe moving disc or chain guide position. Would you have any ideas? Thank you.
It's hard to find a grinder that will reverse rotation. Mine does not.Theoretically it is possible to wire a switch to reverse the starting windings but I prefer to keep things stock, as built. Regarding burrs, any time you sharpen a piece of steel, you will get a burr. By sharpening towards the edge, the burr is minimized. However, If you remove the smallest amount of steel with each pass, the burr is minimal and will break off cleanly as soon as you put it into wood. Years ago I would use a specially shaped arkansas stone to deburr high performance chains but I'm not convinced it was worth the effort. Yes, the grinder and most grinders does have the ability to adjust the vice angle in the y-axis (vertically). Regarding hand filing, you will see angles all over the map. Although most American males are dead sure they can play the drums like Charley Watts AND hand sharpen a chain, I've seen less than 5 correctly done in all the years I've been doing this. Thanks for the feed back
I do not know where you have seen a chain sharped before but this isn’t how it’s done! You don’t slam the wheel into the chain like that! You use several very light touches to get the chain sharp! “Do not worry out all of the cutters being the same!” “The rakers is we’re everything has to be the same height!” If you have a damaged tooth straighten it a little and as the chain wears and it is sharpened you will get the tooth back to the same depth. I use to cut a lot of firewood growing up. We heated with wood and I sold wood on the side. I was taking my chains in to be sharpened and dropping them off. I was only getting four to six resharpening per chain. It was raining one day and I requested for the chains to be sharpened while I waited... I saw why I was only getting four grinding per chain! I went and got the owner and we had a very nice talk about the way his son and employees were grinding my chains away! I have hit nails and barb wire and a lot of stuff in trees. Cut nails are the worst thing to hit besides railroad spikes and huge nails. You have to have both sides of the chain equal so it cuts straight! Other than that, all of the metal you want to remove just enough to clean the tooth up. You need a vise, it doesn’t have to be a big vise... a stump vise is a must in the woods... Learn how to file your chains with a file! It’s not that hard and it will save you a lot of money! I use my grinder to keep my chains straight and to fix them after damaging one...
NoMerc- Thanks for the feedback and your expert opinions...I do not "slam" the wheel into the chain. I use very quick contact that only removes a few thousandths of metal with each pass. If you had listened you would know that. The goal is to leave the chain and grinding wheel in contact for a small fraction of a second to prevent the cutters from overheating which keeps them sharp for a long time. Most of what you said about cutter length and rakers is incorrect in my opinion but if it works for you perhaps you should stick with it. The reason a shop has to remove so much metal during sharpening is due to operators damaging the chain by hitting the dirt, a rock or other object as you described. To sharpen a chain one must remove all damage. I get chains that need half the cutter ground away because the operator was too lazy to change it after initial damage. Often I refuse to sharpen damaged chains and sell the customer a new chain instead. Also, shops can't afford to take the time to sharpen a chain in the manner shown here and often don't have the skills. That's why their cutters dull quickly. But please, post a vid of one of your chains in the wood and leave a link here. we'd like to see it. Thanks again.
You did slam it into the cutter it was quite evident. You should peck it like a drill In a cnc. I was watching to see if their was some new tips to be had but I see that was impossible unless I want to regress in my sharpening skills.
He might be slamming it into the depth gauge but I don't think the chain . you hit a nail and if you continue to use the saw and bore through the nail your going to turn down a thief of the tooth to get beyond the damage. I don't use this method but I see what he's doing if he doesn't have a problem with it neither do I only thing he doesn't do that I would is get rid of the wheels that come with the grinder Nd get the CBN wheels.
Thank you for this amzing video! I am new at chain sharpening wanting to add the service in my small engine repair shop. Can you please tell me which Oregon grinder and grinding disk you are using? Thank you for all you do for us newbies have a wonderful night.
I don't wish to be rude here -- but this is not the way it's done. I've been in numerous saw shops (including my own) and I can guarantee you that not one of them will use this method. Just get a tooth up there and make a light cut. Make sure that the wheel contacts the entire cutting edge of the tooth all the way around the side of the tooth. Work one tooth at a time with a brisk bounce of the wheel. Keep it up until the wheel works its way around the tooth. Don't cut into the chain. If the residual sap on the tooth starts to bubble then you're putting too much heat into the tooth. Repeat until all teeth are sharp. I have never used a gauge to see if my teeth are even. Just eyeball 'em. My chains all cut straight. Get a raker gauge and knock 'em down every other sharpening. .025 is what Stihl recommends and that's what kind of chain I use. In summation -- you can use this technique to sharpen chains... but you'd be the only one doing so. There's no need to make it this complicated.
lc- not rude at all, thanks for the feedback. This vid is not intended to be gospel. every craftsman has his own methods. in a saw shop environment, speed is important and often results are mediocre. also, when a chain comes into a shop it usually has been abused, rocked or run in the dirt and then used to finish the job in a cloud of smoke. it isn't easy to feel enthusiastic about a job like that. this vid is aimed more at the person who is newer at chain sharpening. and intended to show how to get a good edge and uniform cutters without overheating the metal. i certainly encourage you to produce your own video, post it here and show us your methods.
lc- glad to hear that. I hope you'll let me know when your vid is posted. I know my method looks a bit complex, but i can have a 72 dl chain sharpened with the depth gauges set correctly in less than 10 minutes. I've considered but never tried your technique of completing one cutter and then moving on to the next. It would eliminate any anxiety about badly damaged cutters. but it would make setting depth gauges much more time consuming. I made this vid because I frequently see chains sharpened by grinder or file that will not cut well. i also frequently see vids about how to sharpen that do not include a clip showing the chain in wood. That's what really matters.
On the Oregon power sharpener you totally missed the 10° down angle adjustment. Almost everybody does that, and doesn't get good results. TH-cam is full of videos showing how to use these power sharpeners missing that adjustment. 🤷
And your problem is you missed the part about adjusting the depth gauge that's your own fault. You miss that and my guess you very likely burn your chains like toast. 95 percent of the users here don't have a clue what they are doing except maybe for the spanner man. And I see nothing wrong with what this guys doing he told you to set your depth gauge properly. Had you done so you wouldn't have broken your stone. You want to sell your grinder because you don't know how to use it give me a shout back I can make them work absolutely no problems .
Edythee- Thanks for the feedback. I've sharpened thousands of chains over the last 25 years and haven't broken or damaged a grinding disk yet. I suppose it would be possible to stress a grinding disk if you tried to remove too much metal at one time but that wouldn't be good for the chain or the grinding disk. What you want is to be patient and remove a small amount of metal to keep the cutting edge cool. You're smarter than me but my chains cut well and last a long time. Hope this helps.
@Mark OnTheBlueRidge mark- thanks for the feedback. i imagine the two who posted these replies are smart enough. maybe there are ways i could improve this vid. a lot of planning and work went into the production. i honestly did my best and so far its been viewed more than 24.5k times in a little over two years with only a few negative comments. the intent was to show my methods, learned over the last 25 years, to produce chains that are sharp, stay sharp and make money on the job. i always encourage anyone who thinks they know a better way to post his own vid. also, truth is, i wonder about anyone who calls a grinding disk a "stone."
I don't think he's slamming the wheel into the chain although he is sort of slamming against the depth stop . he's a little misleading here he should explain that he's taking off just ever so much . he's taking off so little it really wouldn't make a difference if he lightened up the stroke A little but that's his preference. If he really was concerned about overheating and actually getting a sharp chain he'd loose that wheel and get a CBN wheel . if he's lucky he may get 100 chains sharpened on those stock wheel where if he used a CBN he'd get 7 or 8 hundred sharpening per stone. Maybe a thousand the stones run about $120 you do the math . the stones are less likely to overheat and you end up with a sharper chain . you still got to use a little finesse about it though. And know I won't make a demonstration video . I've never seen Oregon demonstrate their sharpener in this manner before , but if it works for you go for it.
Slamming that grinding wheel into the chain is not the way to use the machine as well as dangerous, light taps is the way to go, doing it twice seems a waste also.
Thanks for the feedback Arne. With any power tool it is important to use safe practices. I think you may have missed part of the video.That is to adjust the grinder so that it only removes a few thousandths of an inch with each pass, perhaps .003 inches max. It's easy to avoid removing too much steel by adjusting the feed less than one half turn with each pass. That is "finesse." It takes a little patience but being in a hurry really is dangerous. the point is to remove steel from the cutter without overheating it. Cutters that have been overheated by grinding will dull quickly in the field. By the way, the grinding wheel used in the vid is not a 1/8 inch, but a 3/16 inch, the correct wheel for a 3/8 inch chain. Your comments are appreciated. I would encourage you to post a video demonstrating your techniques including the chain cutting wood after sharpening. Thanks again.
a calipers is a good way to check cutter length, quick and easy. some think that having left and right side cutters of equal length is important so i try to keep them that way. i sharpen the right side first since it usually has the most damage and then grind the left side to match. if you don't like using a vernier or digital calipers, a good depth gauge tool will have a scale marked in mm's at one end. it will get you in the ballpark. a plastic vernier calipers may be cheaper than the stihl depth gauge tool.
Monnie- Thanks for the feedback. TH-cam and chainsaws are used all over the world, not just the USA. Most hombres, on our little rock, that use chainsaws, think in terms of kilograms and centimeters. Doesn't it seem odd to you that an inch is 1/12 of some forgotten king's foot length? You may have noticed that except for chains, every part of a chainsaw, from the fuel tank to the piston to bar nuts is measured in metric units, same as my Ford F250. Keep'm sharp...
l heyduke You are absolutely right, I never thought of it that way, I think there’s only two or three countries on this big blue marble that uses the American Standard, the rest of the planet uses metric, sad to say I never did learn the metric system, which does make more sense than the American, great video
@@MONNIEHOLT Thanks for the feedback Monnie- I switched over to metric in the 1970's. I was designing and building bicycle frames for road and track racing. My drawings were 1/2 scale and everything had to be "just so" because clearances were tight. It was a lot easier with metric. The American or english standard is just too weird. Feet are broken down into 1/12's, the inches into other absurd fractions, 1/2's to 1/64's. The math is a pain. American engineers gave up long ago, instead using feet and decimal fractions of inches, but did you ever see a yard stick with tenths or hundredths of inches? With metric you can do all the math in your head.
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У вас самое лучшее видео по за точке цепей!!! Много всего пересмотрел. У самого нет пилы, но я точу иногда на заказ на простом китайском наждачке, диском от болгарки 1 мм. Просто я знаю как работает резец. А сейчас заказал подобный станок с Алиэкспресс, в течении месяца должны доставить. Единственно, я сразу сделал для него стойку, как у Oregon. Я живу в обычной квартире и чтобы не занимать место на столе, могу эту стойку поставить везде где удобно, могу на балкон. Приподнял её, ножки сами складываются и поставил в любой угол на хранение.
Very nice! Exactly what I needed to get a grasp of the operation. We just got a 620-120, and I have never worked with one. Old school hand sharpening until now. This covered a lot. I agree with the end result being the definer of your own tactics. This video shows how it works, and out simply. Applying knowledged and experience with chains I'm sure I can master it in no time. Thanks! This video saved me a lot of flipping back and forth from diagrams to explanations, exactly what I was looking for. Now our hundreds of dull chains laying in buckets can see some life again.
Thanks for putting this together. A huge time saver and showed me just about all I needed for basic operation. Now it's time to have fun and develope a technique. Great tutorial, thank you.
Thanks for the feedback. For years I worked with a tree service in northern California. Every sunday night we would service 20 saws for the work week ahead. So I've sharpened a lot of chains. you may want to look at my vid on setting the depth gauges. The level and angle of the depth gauges is just as important as the cutters. Good luck, it's good that you have a lot of old chains to practice with.
@@charlesrandle7915 definitely will thanks for the heads up. Yeah it is going to be a trial and error type of process, and yes, im happy we have a ton of chains that wouldnt matter if they got destroyed (though i dont see that happening.)
But yes, the depth and angles is definitely where i know "the feel" for the machine and the eye comes into play. I will definitely check those videos out for sure! I prefer to take advice from professionals with experience, such as yourself, rather than a generic manual ( though the manual is very well put together and very in depth). I just learn better by watching people who provide reasons why theyre doing what they are doing.
I also dont have much experience, or i should say knowlege of specific chains, size and depth etc. So they many practice chains should definitely come in handy.
Were a 4man crew outside of Philadelphia and my boss has invested in a lot of equipment the past 3 yrs so i have been learning 1 piece at a time from mini skids to crane work. Came from 1 whisper chipper to 3 bandits, 3 stumpers, skid, mini skid with grapple, crane, amd everything in-between. TH-cam has been so helpful thanks to people such as yourself. I subbed to your page and look forward to checking out those other grinder videos, as well as others you have. Im a fiend for knowledge lol.
Thanks a bunch, much appreciated.
@@markb4168 I use my old chains to reinforce concrete...
@@markb4168 Thanks for the feedback. Keep at it.
Not sure why people are chirping you in the comments for bringing the wheel down too hard . . . everything in the video was very informative and helpful. Thank you.
Finally a FYI video that walks me through the parts and the sharpening. Nice job!
I like this minimal material removal patient but quality process. helpful video thank you
Gordon-
thanks for the feedback. You got it right, minimal and patient. I wish you could have written the script for me.
Great video. Does your grinder switch operate wheel direction clock wise and anti clockwise? If not do you get a burr? I see some grinders have the ability to change the angle on the chain clamp vice example 10 degrees. Appears Stihl setting is zero degrees. When hand filing I notice people not filing flat. Filing up into the tooth. Your thoughts? Thank you.
I now have a chain grinder and find right cutters are longer than the left. Do you know if there is a fix to obtain even sizes to right and left cutters approximately 50 thou longer on left cutters.
Maybe its the relationship between the chain guide and centre line of grinding disc? Maybe moving disc or chain guide position.
Would you have any ideas? Thank you.
It's hard to find a grinder that will reverse rotation. Mine does not.Theoretically it is possible to wire a switch to reverse the starting windings but I prefer to keep things stock, as built. Regarding burrs, any time you sharpen a piece of steel, you will get a burr. By sharpening towards the edge, the burr is minimized. However, If you remove the smallest amount of steel with each pass, the burr is minimal and will break off cleanly as soon as you put it into wood. Years ago I would use a specially shaped arkansas stone to deburr high performance chains but I'm not convinced it was worth the effort.
Yes, the grinder and most grinders does have the ability to adjust the vice angle in the y-axis (vertically). Regarding hand filing, you will see angles all over the map. Although most American males are dead sure they can play the drums like Charley Watts AND hand sharpen a chain, I've seen less than 5 correctly done in all the years I've been doing this.
Thanks for the feed back
Ain't the same band without Charlie anymore
I do not know where you have seen a chain sharped before but this isn’t how it’s done! You don’t slam the wheel into the chain like that! You use several very light touches to get the chain sharp!
“Do not worry out all of the cutters being the same!” “The rakers is we’re everything has to be the same height!” If you have a damaged tooth straighten it a little and as the chain wears and it is sharpened you will get the tooth back to the same depth.
I use to cut a lot of firewood growing up. We heated with wood and I sold wood on the side. I was taking my chains in to be sharpened and dropping them off. I was only getting four to six resharpening per chain. It was raining one day and I requested for the chains to be sharpened while I waited... I saw why I was only getting four grinding per chain! I went and got the owner and we had a very nice talk about the way his son and employees were grinding my chains away!
I have hit nails and barb wire and a lot of stuff in trees. Cut nails are the worst thing to hit besides railroad spikes and huge nails. You have to have both sides of the chain equal so it cuts straight! Other than that, all of the metal you want to remove just enough to clean the tooth up.
You need a vise, it doesn’t have to be a big vise... a stump vise is a must in the woods... Learn how to file your chains with a file! It’s not that hard and it will save you a lot of money! I use my grinder to keep my chains straight and to fix them after damaging one...
NoMerc- Thanks for the feedback and your expert opinions...I do not "slam" the wheel into the chain. I use very quick contact that only removes a few thousandths of metal with each pass. If you had listened you would know that. The goal is to leave the chain and grinding wheel in contact for a small fraction of a second to prevent the cutters from overheating which keeps them sharp for a long time. Most of what you said about cutter length and rakers is incorrect in my opinion but if it works for you perhaps you should stick with it. The reason a shop has to remove so much metal during sharpening is due to operators damaging the chain by hitting the dirt, a rock or other object as you described. To sharpen a chain one must remove all damage. I get chains that need half the cutter ground away because the operator was too lazy to change it after initial damage. Often I refuse to sharpen damaged chains and sell the customer a new chain instead. Also, shops can't afford to take the time to sharpen a chain in the manner shown here and often don't have the skills. That's why their cutters dull quickly. But please, post a vid of one of your chains in the wood and leave a link here. we'd like to see it. Thanks again.
You did slam it into the cutter it was quite evident. You should peck it like a drill In a cnc. I was watching to see if their was some new tips to be had but I see that was impossible unless I want to regress in my sharpening skills.
He might be slamming it into the depth gauge but I don't think the chain . you hit a nail and if you continue to use the saw and bore through the nail your going to turn down a thief of the tooth to get beyond the damage. I don't use this method but I see what he's doing if he doesn't have a problem with it neither do I only thing he doesn't do that I would is get rid of the wheels that come with the grinder Nd get the CBN wheels.
how much the head angel can i set for sharpening 30" chain
Thank you for this amzing video! I am new at chain sharpening wanting to add the service in my small engine repair shop. Can you please tell me which Oregon grinder and grinding disk you are using? Thank you for all you do for us newbies have a wonderful night.
Great Video
thanks for the feedback
Thanks for the video, just purchased this unit, looking forward nvm to using it even though I can get a very sharp chain with a file!
thanks for the feedback. we'll be interested to hear how you chains improve or ... not. i sometimes use a file on the job, in the field.
great video! thankyou
Lol...that's some crazy slamming...
I don't wish to be rude here -- but this is not the way it's done. I've been in numerous saw shops (including my own) and I can guarantee you that not one of them will use this method. Just get a tooth up there and make a light cut. Make sure that the wheel contacts the entire cutting edge of the tooth all the way around the side of the tooth. Work one tooth at a time with a brisk bounce of the wheel. Keep it up until the wheel works its way around the tooth. Don't cut into the chain. If the residual sap on the tooth starts to bubble then you're putting too much heat into the tooth. Repeat until all teeth are sharp. I have never used a gauge to see if my teeth are even. Just eyeball 'em. My chains all cut straight. Get a raker gauge and knock 'em down every other sharpening. .025 is what Stihl recommends and that's what kind of chain I use.
In summation -- you can use this technique to sharpen chains... but you'd be the only one doing so. There's no need to make it this complicated.
lc- not rude at all, thanks for the feedback. This vid is not intended to be gospel. every craftsman has his own methods. in a saw shop environment, speed is important and often results are mediocre. also, when a chain comes into a shop it usually has been abused, rocked or run in the dirt and then used to finish the job in a cloud of smoke. it isn't easy to feel enthusiastic about a job like that. this vid is aimed more at the person who is newer at chain sharpening. and intended to show how to get a good edge and uniform cutters without overheating the metal. i certainly encourage you to produce your own video, post it here and show us your methods.
I'll get right on that.
lc- glad to hear that. I hope you'll let me know when your vid is posted. I know my method looks a bit complex, but i can have a 72 dl chain sharpened with the depth gauges set correctly in less than 10 minutes. I've considered but never tried your technique of completing one cutter and then moving on to the next. It would eliminate any anxiety about badly damaged cutters. but it would make setting depth gauges much more time consuming. I made this vid because I frequently see chains sharpened by grinder or file that will not cut well. i also frequently see vids about how to sharpen that do not include a clip showing the chain in wood. That's what really matters.
We can agree on that.
On the Oregon power sharpener you totally missed the 10° down angle adjustment. Almost everybody does that, and doesn't get good results. TH-cam is full of videos showing how to use these power sharpeners missing that adjustment. 🤷
That's for Oregon full chisel chains. Stihl will call for it if they don't you don't set the tilt
Sir I want to purchase this machine please tell me how to get it?
here's a good source:
www.baileysonline.com/chainsaws/chainsaw-chain-sharpening/chainsaw-chain-grinders.html
Hi my name is Roger I used your way and I broke my stone had to buy a new stone i’ll never try to sharpen my chains your way ever again
And your problem is you missed the part about adjusting the depth gauge that's your own fault. You miss that and my guess you very likely burn your chains like toast. 95 percent of the users here don't have a clue what they are doing except maybe for the spanner man. And I see nothing wrong with what this guys doing he told you to set your depth gauge properly. Had you done so you wouldn't have broken your stone. You want to sell your grinder because you don't know how to use it give me a shout back I can make them work absolutely no problems .
Wont that break your stone , I would never do that to my stone - Im smarter than that and you should be to
Edythee- Thanks for the feedback. I've sharpened thousands of chains over the last 25 years and haven't broken or damaged a grinding disk yet. I suppose it would be possible to stress a grinding disk if you tried to remove too much metal at one time but that wouldn't be good for the chain or the grinding disk. What you want is to be patient and remove a small amount of metal to keep the cutting edge cool. You're smarter than me but my chains cut well and last a long time. Hope this helps.
@Mark OnTheBlueRidge
mark-
thanks for the feedback. i imagine the two who posted these replies are smart enough. maybe there are ways i could improve this vid. a lot of planning and work went into the production. i honestly did my best and so far its been viewed more than 24.5k times in a little over two years with only a few negative comments. the intent was to show my methods, learned over the last 25 years, to produce chains that are sharp, stay sharp and make money on the job. i always encourage anyone who thinks they know a better way to post his own vid. also, truth is, i wonder about anyone who calls a grinding disk a "stone."
I want this stone can u give me this grender stone has been break I want new can uh help me
Go to baileysonline.com. They have many types of grinding wheels.
I don't think he's slamming the wheel into the chain although he is sort of slamming against the depth stop . he's a little misleading here he should explain that he's taking off just ever so much . he's taking off so little it really wouldn't make a difference if he lightened up the stroke A little but that's his preference. If he really was concerned about overheating and actually getting a sharp chain he'd loose that wheel and get a CBN wheel . if he's lucky he may get 100 chains sharpened on those stock wheel where if he used a CBN he'd get 7 or 8 hundred sharpening per stone. Maybe a thousand the stones run about $120 you do the math . the stones are less likely to overheat and you end up with a sharper chain . you still got to use a little finesse about it though. And know I won't make a demonstration video . I've never seen Oregon demonstrate their sharpener in this manner before , but if it works for you go for it.
Slamming that grinding wheel into the chain is not the way to use the machine as well as dangerous, light taps is the way to go, doing it twice seems a waste also.
That's a rough and dangerous way to treat a thin 1/8" brittle wheel. Have some finesse man.
Thanks for the feedback Arne. With any power tool it is important to use safe practices. I think you may have missed part of the video.That is to adjust the grinder so that it only removes a few thousandths of an inch with each pass, perhaps .003 inches max. It's easy to avoid removing too much steel by adjusting the feed less than one half turn with each pass. That is "finesse." It takes a little patience but being in a hurry really is dangerous. the point is to remove steel from the cutter without overheating it. Cutters that have been overheated by grinding will dull quickly in the field. By the way, the grinding wheel used in the vid is not a 1/8 inch, but a 3/16 inch, the correct wheel for a 3/8 inch chain.
Your comments are appreciated. I would encourage you to post a video demonstrating your techniques including the chain cutting wood after sharpening. Thanks again.
I never in my life have seen a caliper pulled out during a chain sharpening 🤣🤣🤣
Also, you might want to check out the clutch on that Stihl, it's making a racket
a calipers is a good way to check cutter length, quick and easy. some think that having left and right side cutters of equal length is important so i try to keep them that way. i sharpen the right side first since it usually has the most damage and then grind the left side to match. if you don't like using a vernier or digital calipers, a good depth gauge tool will have a scale marked in mm's at one end. it will get you in the ballpark. a plastic vernier calipers may be cheaper than the stihl depth gauge tool.
thanks for the comment, bob. no problems with the stihl 460. put a lot of hours on it since this vid was posted and it's running (and sounding) great.
@@bobpiff9081 needle bearing sounds shot
Looks like a pain in the ass
You do not sound Canadian so what the heck is this metric system you keep talking about
Monnie- Thanks for the feedback. TH-cam and chainsaws are used all over the world, not just the USA. Most hombres, on our little rock, that use chainsaws, think in terms of kilograms and centimeters. Doesn't it seem odd to you that an inch is 1/12 of some forgotten king's foot length? You may have noticed that except for chains, every part of a chainsaw, from the fuel tank to the piston to bar nuts is measured in metric units, same as my Ford F250. Keep'm sharp...
l heyduke You are absolutely right, I never thought of it that way, I think there’s only two or three countries on this big blue marble that uses the American Standard, the rest of the planet uses metric, sad to say I never did learn the metric system, which does make more sense than the American, great video
@@MONNIEHOLT
Thanks for the feedback Monnie-
I switched over to metric in the 1970's. I was designing and building bicycle frames for road and track racing. My drawings were 1/2 scale and everything had to be "just so" because clearances were tight. It was a lot easier with metric. The American or english standard is just too weird. Feet are broken down into 1/12's, the inches into other absurd fractions, 1/2's to 1/64's. The math is a pain. American engineers gave up long ago, instead using feet and decimal fractions of inches, but did you ever see a yard stick with tenths or hundredths of inches? With metric you can do all the math in your head.
Not good info.