great video again, 15 years automotive tech and I am still learning a lot from this series .very eye opening thinking back to the few comebacks related ujoint replacement and vibration concerns . I believe after this series is done I will have the best practices for replacement in my mind for a comeback free repair for the next 30 years or so , so thank you looking forward to the next one
+WeberAuto so next week we learn to press a u joint out with vise and hammer and press back in with old socket and vise right lol I've never done that !
+Alvin Nagra lol, I know you are joking, but it is a common misconception. I will change several different types of u-joints in the next episode without using a hammer. Stay tuned!
Another wonderfull video by John Kelly.....his presentations are extremely clear and very informative...Thank you Mr Kelly.......I look forward to the next video in this series.
Really great stuff here Sir , I really admire your expertise and delivery style especially as you are chair bound ! You make it look easy which is commendable . I am in the process of completely rebuilding my Toyota Prado 95 series in Australia and find the info in this series invaluable ! Thank you so much for your effort to put this series together , I for one appreciate it immensely .
Great work with this series hard to find this kind of information about the drive shafts and joints, reliable information in Sweden is hard to find so thanks for your work and expertise.
Thank you Prof. JD Kelly of WSU. I have seen that round dials before and had no idea who it works or its application. Now I know and I know about die propeller shaft too (0.002"/ x mm?). At University (CPUT, Wellington Campus, ZA) we must do our practical at schools. My subject is Economics/ Company Law and I also start with the beginning. Revering to the Bible, Roman-, English-, French- and Cape Colonial Law in South Africa. Your class is very long, but is bounds me to the computer screen. Lucky it is now December and there for now classes...
I just subscribed!! I LOVE the fact your so very knowledgeable teaching us step by step in such details I never knew all these things..Yes I'm a lady and love stuff like this....Those very important tiny parts of our vehicles get neglected which lead to big huge expensive jobs.. I'd say keep everything lubed and clean always!! Don't get vehicles that have U-Joints without outer snap rings 😩..
Great video, great series so far. Looking forward to the remaining parts. In the UK we pretty much call them all "prop shafts" when we say drive shaft we generally refer to a FWD axle. Lots of terminology for different parts I guess.
+Toyota Tech Thank you very much! Yes, the terminology is so confusing; that is why I finally decided to research it all and attempt to clarify it. More to come soon.
i had a technician install 2 new moog u joints on my car but they screwed up by not putting on the zerk grease fitting, or not putting it on very well because it was missing. took me quite a while to figure out where the squeaking was coming from. your videos are awesome jon
Excellent video. Had a 76 Chevy.blazer with the older slip joint drive shaft and always made a clunking sound or feel when starting off from a complete stop. Never got worse eased up when greased but was always there. Great video thanks
@@WeberAuto this weekend I will crawl under my recently acquired 2013 Dodge Charger and determine the source of the “thump” I feel accelerating from a stop or hard acceleration from a roll. I suspect I will be able to feel radial play based on that. It was a police car so likely wear and tear based on hard service. Thanks to your video I will inspect the other areas you covered.
All good John - although I have a differing view on greasing U joints or any joint with a grease seal or boot (as a mechanic myself since 1976) - when greasing such a joint you should never put so much grease in that it is forced past the seal lips, doing so may compromise them and allow dirt to mix with the grease at the point of the seal its expelled - the correct method is to place one finger on the rubber boot and inject grease only to the point the rubber boot becomes inflated with grease and feels a bit firmer like a tyre getting firmer as its inflated - that indicates the grease has been forced through the bearing or ball joint even suffice to inflate the boot at which point stop pumping greased in - observe this method will save any grease boot seal from attracting dirt and accelerating wear of it. - if you observe a boot that has had grease forced out then retract the boot seal back as much as possible and wipe the boot seal lips of any grease.
+AusMecham Hi, great feedback thank you! I agree regarding periodic greasing of U-joints; however, on initial installation of the joint, equal amounts of grease coming from all four seals indicated proper installation and axial play. See Spicer's own video th-cam.com/video/wH-fvddVt-g/w-d-xo.html Thanks.
+WeberAuto Yes that is just with periodic greasing - for initial assembly you'll have some excess grease around after assembly anyway so as long as that's all cleaned up its good to go - Regards, thanks for the reply.
@Aussie101 New centre bearing is about $20 for aftermarket on ebay By the description on the justcommodores forum Id reckon for a qualified mechanic it would take about 2 hrs....including lunch break.... so about 1 to 1.5 hrs job. 600 bucks, tell em their dreamin and then shop around.
One other bit of advice for any tail shaft that exhibits vibration yet has no apparent signs of wear or excess clearances - in more then a few cases one or more needle rollers or internal cup faces may have pitted and deteriorated to the point that the cup bearing becomes notched or semi seized yet not slack - to check for the you need to remove the tail shaft and then grasp the yoke and feel how much resistance the cup bearings have when moved about its limits on each X and Y axis, and that the motion is smooth and linear in the bearings - if the bearing motion shows some resistance or has a tight or rough spot then this can be the cause of vibration and the u joint is most certainly on the way to total seizing but may take some time before any slack of excess play is evident - hope that helps.
+WeberAuto Ill just add that in all cases the first thing I would do it the tests you have explained in detail here, if nothing found the next would be to try to feel for any firm spots while rotating the shaft that can pick up if the cup has a very tight spot in it and in some worse cases you can actually hear or feel a metallic ping in the shaft as it moves through the tight spot, in those cases the inside of cup is usually dry and more advanced stages of seizure but if nothing found to shows the source of the vibration at that point I remove the shaft last resort to check it as I described.
The reason I was asking is because I had a bad center carrier bearing on my tacoma so had it changed. That made things worse. After watching your videos I noticed that the driveshaft isn't in phase. The weights on the front driveshaft is on opposite sides than the back driveshaft
That can be normal; however, If the driveshaft is not in phase, it will can vibrate. The phasing I am talking about is not balance weight related, it is u-joint cap related. All three u-joint bearing caps should be lined up with each other. It is easy to accidentally get them out of phase after changing a center support bearing. Best wishes!
Also i have seen they sell vibration analysis tools though i have my doubts on how good they can be for giving you the correct location of the vibration problem (i.e wheel bearing , driveshaft , balljoints ,...etc to name a few) . But definitely a dial gage can be accurate to tell you if something is out of round causing an issue such as pinion ,wheel hub assembly parts , or driveshaft sections. Ofcourse some times you need different dial gage attachments to set up the dial gage correctly not to bump the wheel stud nuts when measuring out of round of wheel hub assembly parts in some cases.
Your videos are very informative. It must be tougher to make these educational videos while doing the camera work too (this video seems like you're doing everything solo). Thanks and please keep up the great work :)
Hi again John. I have a 2013 Dodge Charger RWD. No universal joints. Elastomeric couplings. I have a one-time clunk when load applied ( ie from a stop to a hard acceleration or from coast to hard acceleration). If no you joints, what else should I inspect. I am a mech engineer with lots of tools so lay it on me LOL. Thanks in advance
Another informative session, John. Thanks. ?: for the crimp-on style shafts that require complete shaft replacement, is that possibly covered under manufacturer "powertrain warranty" ? Also, have you seen the carbon fibre shafts being used by BMW for some of their newer M performance models? I was curious as to how they graft the yokes to the ends of the carbon fibre shafts.
+Mario Dalla Riva Hi, thank you! Complete shaft replacement could be covered under the powertrain warranty as long as the time or mileage had not been exceeded. I have heard of the carbon fiber shafts, but know nothing about them. But now I am curious. The Snap-On carbon fiber high voltage sockets and extensions I have seem to have the fiber wrapped around a knurled insert for the drive end and the driven end (with no conductive material in between). I wonder if that is what they are doing. Thanks for the feedback!
Question on an aluminum driveshaft to steel joint causing corrosion. Why doesn't that logic apply to aluminum wheels on steel hubs? I'm working on a dodge with an aluminum shaft I bought from a junkyard and am slowly fixing all it's issues. it's my work truck and it definitely doesn't have the factory joints, but the shaft is a factory spicer. In about to replace the joints but I'm just curious because I cannot find a sealed joint that's also coated and was just curious on why spicer discontinued the sealed one. I've got a greasable one right now but I just don't see how that corrosion doesn't affect engine heads, or anything else for that matter.
I noticed you are working on a Toyota with factory installed grease nipples - These are SO BADLY overlooked! If you take your truck to a Toyota dealer where I am, you have to request for them to grease these parts or they simply will not do it. I do my own anyway, so they get plenty of grease as they need doing regularly and more frequently in the Monsoon season. What I would suggest is due to neglect on these parts, maybe give them a good greasing (as often they will be dry) then give it a week and re-grease and see how the grease flows before replacing joints - often you can get them to loosen up just by refilling and flushing / pumping out the old crud left in there.
WIth the FAD, the Jeep front drive shaft only turns when in 4 wheel drive and is typically used at low speeds. That should prolong the life of the shaft, but when it wears out, replace it with a serviceable aftermarket one.
They do not have to be, it depends on the side of balance weight available verses the amount of imbalance. Sometimes two weights are used and spread apart to simulate a smaller weight somewhere in between them. Thanks for your question
U-joints i am ok now with as there are a couple types some have to be melted off the plastic , others have snap rings outside others on inside...but once you take them out it is either a hammering out or pressing out method to replace. I am more concerned about runout being bad on a driveshaft and weather you re-balance it or just replace the whole thing. Basically i know replacement i don't understand so well how to re-balance it once you find it out of round or unbalanced for a driveshaft. Yet at least
I am ok with the understanding of measuring drive shaft runout , wheel runout , pinion run out,...etc (with a dial gage though it may take a few try's to perfect) but what i haven't seen is how to balance a out of balance driveshaft once found. It seems like it be similar process to balancing a wheel by adding wheel weights with a hammer. But do you normally replace driveshaft completely or weld metal weights on it ? I am guessing when in doubt just replace the whole driveshaft as that's usually an easy removal/install process but just wondering if anybody still tries to balance an old driveshaft
Hose clamps can be used to balance a driveshaft in the vehicle. It can work very well. See th-cam.com/video/kj78G4wtXKE/w-d-xo.html or th-cam.com/video/egdAjsasiEQ/w-d-xo.html Best wishes!
That is what I'm talking about when I say out of phase. The universal joint bearings on the front driveshaft don't line up with the universal joint bearings on the rear driveshaft.they are at least 30 degrees off from on driveshaft to the other
You said to replace the straps connecting the rear u-joint to the rear flange , I do agree that if they stretch after securing the u-joint they should be replaced but in todays state of being parts like that could be very hard to find, its not a normal world today.gggg
I have a 2020 Hy7ndai Palisade with 44k kms. It jerks every time a accelerate slowly from sa complete stop, it happens whn i turn left or right. And it is very nitoceable when i am driving round from an underground parking. Dealership cannot find the cause. Thanks
I have a 2013 mustang v6 manual trans. I have a vibration/resonance on deccel between 3100-2200rpm range. Every gear any speed. I've been told its caused by the 2 piece drive shaft or the dual mass flywheel. Any advice on this?
+Joey Sangster Hi, vibrations on deceleration are typically caused by two things: 1. U-joint working angles that are out of spec while decelerating 2. A rear axle with bearing preload problems allowing the pinion gear to be pulled too close to the ring gear while decelerating.
+WeberAuto So how can I fix the rear bearing if that's the issue? does that mean a rear end rebuild? my car is still on warranty as well. should this be covered?
+Joey Sangster hi, it may be still covered under warranty. Ford dealers haver a vibration analyzer. Hopefully they can tell what problem you have and fix it.
i have 04 f150 and has a 6in lift kit it has a loud clunking sound just when taking off from a stop then goes away i push my slip yoke up and down and has play do i need a drive shaft spacer becuase its sticking out more than stock any advise will help
Yes that is true, it comes from the early times before automobiles when marine vessels were the only ones that actually had a shaft between the engine and the propeller. Toyota also calls it a propeller shaft. Thanks for the feedback.
I have watched all of these U joints and have almost 6 hours of info. First off take everything you have ever seen on you tube and throw that out the window. Take everything you have learned about how to install and remove and which clips to use, out the window. You really need a PHD in space time contunium to even get the right ones. Steel vs aluminum, carrier earrings and slip yoke Axel play oh my... Been changing these for 30 years with a hammer, press, or vice never any issues. Now I wa snot checking tolerances in up and down/ snap ring sizes, over bent, or ears on the pinion....... This is alot and I am sure it's all relevant but 99.999% of shops-dealers- do it yourself are not doing all this.
Another great video :) Curiosity did however kill the cat ,and I also just finished watching a 17 part TH-cam video on replacing staked U-Joints. Cringe worthy in many respects especially with Axial play being "overlooked" but in all fairness it would get you to work the next day with no other financial means to do it correctly. Thanks for making these videos you are an exceptional teacher. :)
+Brenda Car Girl Thank you very much. I agree, those staked u-joint shaft fixes might get someone to work the next day, but they may not last as long as the original ones did. As you may have already determined, my teaching philosophy is to teach the correct way to do things. This way when a technician decides to shortcut something, they will have a better idea of what could or could not be shortcut, and why. Have a great day!
+WeberAuto I found it interesting at the end of the Staked U-Joint series that the Gold Standard for proper U-joint installation was "symmetrical grease flow" ,when as you well know some crosses as well as caps have grease transfer grooves machined into them promoting a flow of grease regardless if the assembly is overly tight and bound or overly loose wobbly. Putting snap rings on ears that were not engineered or machined from the factory for any axial adjustment is truly throwing the dice on a craps table in Vegas. :) Again thanks for this great series,I imagine it took a great deal of time to put all this information together as you have.
I don't know how someone has managed to keep my attention for 2 hours on the subject of u-joints....
Great work John, you really know your stuff
+TheAustinCarmichael2 lol, thanks. there is even more to come!
Great work ,thank you
great video again, 15 years automotive tech and I am still learning a lot from this series .very eye opening thinking back to the few comebacks related ujoint replacement and vibration concerns . I believe after this series is done I will have the best practices for replacement in my mind for a comeback free repair for the next 30 years or so , so thank you looking forward to the next one
+Alvin Nagra Thank you for the feedback! I am glad it is helpful.
+WeberAuto so next week we learn to press a u joint out with vise and hammer and press back in with old socket and vise right lol I've never done that !
+Alvin Nagra lol, I know you are joking, but it is a common misconception. I will change several different types of u-joints in the next episode without using a hammer. Stay tuned!
Another wonderfull video by John Kelly.....his presentations are extremely clear and very informative...Thank you Mr Kelly.......I look forward to the next video in this series.
+Buddy grant Thank you!
Really great stuff here Sir , I really admire your expertise and delivery style especially as you are chair bound ! You make it look easy which is commendable . I am in the process of completely rebuilding my Toyota Prado 95 series in Australia and find the info in this series invaluable ! Thank you so much for your effort to put this series together , I for one appreciate it immensely .
Thank you!
Great work with this series hard to find this kind of information about the drive shafts and joints, reliable information in Sweden is hard to find so thanks for your work and expertise.
+g johan Thank you very much!
I was about to buy some cheap ones online but with all the info in the last 4 videos has changed my mind , quality and specs for me
Good idea! Thank you for watching
This is a remarkable, very informative video series. Thank you so much.
Have learned a lot from your videos. Replaced the rear drive line (2 piece shaft) on 2005 Subaru Outback because it had staked ujoint caps.
Thank you Prof. JD Kelly of WSU. I have seen that round dials before and had no idea who it works or its application. Now I know and I know about die propeller shaft too (0.002"/ x mm?). At University (CPUT, Wellington Campus, ZA) we must do our practical at schools. My subject is Economics/ Company Law and I also start with the beginning. Revering to the Bible, Roman-, English-, French- and Cape Colonial Law in South Africa. Your class is very long, but is bounds me to the computer screen. Lucky it is now December and there for now classes...
I just subscribed!! I LOVE the fact your so very knowledgeable teaching us step by step in such details I never knew all these things..Yes I'm a lady and love stuff like this....Those very important tiny parts of our vehicles get neglected which lead to big huge expensive jobs.. I'd say keep everything lubed and clean always!! Don't get vehicles that have U-Joints without outer snap rings 😩..
Great video, great series so far. Looking forward to the remaining parts. In the UK we pretty much call them all "prop shafts" when we say drive shaft we generally refer to a FWD axle. Lots of terminology for different parts I guess.
+Toyota Tech Thank you very much! Yes, the terminology is so confusing; that is why I finally decided to research it all and attempt to clarify it. More to come soon.
Absolutely thorough and so well presented. Thank you very much for uploading this...wonderful.
Thank you!
Very nice explanation. Very deep knowledge you have... I learned so many points from you..
I enjoy your videos, keep them coming!
i am 63 l1 master car and truck started at 17 i never felt dumb until now best automotive u tube i have ever seen
Thank you very much!
a great Video Prof. Kelly
thank you for your information
+Mohammed Shamy Thank you very much!
John you doing very good job 👍👍👍👍👍
Nice video 👌👌👌👌👌
You teaching very good you very good teacher 👌 👌👌👌👌
Wow information overload Awesome job
Thank you
i had a technician install 2 new moog u joints on my car but they screwed up by not putting on the zerk grease fitting, or not putting it on very well because it was missing. took me quite a while to figure out where the squeaking was coming from. your videos are awesome jon
Very detailed explanation, thanks.
Excellent video. Had a 76 Chevy.blazer with the older slip joint drive shaft and always made a clunking sound or feel when starting off from a complete stop. Never got worse eased up when greased but was always there. Great video thanks
Thank you! Yes, there is a special grease for that issue, but it is a temporary fix.
i learn a lot of knowledge about universal joint, thank you for your share. ^^
+廖晉恒 Thank you!
Ah yes, the driveline. Perfectly balanced, as all things should be.
Very informative and thorough, thanks!
Great video. You really know your stuff.
I appreciate that!
@@WeberAuto this weekend I will crawl under my recently acquired 2013 Dodge Charger and determine the source of the “thump” I feel accelerating from a stop or hard acceleration from a roll. I suspect I will be able to feel radial play based on that. It was a police car so likely wear and tear based on hard service. Thanks to your video I will inspect the other areas you covered.
Your voice is magnetic
Quality engineer here. Wow!
All good John - although I have a differing view on greasing U joints or any joint with a grease seal or boot (as a mechanic myself since 1976) - when greasing such a joint you should never put so much grease in that it is forced past the seal lips, doing so may compromise them and allow dirt to mix with the grease at the point of the seal its expelled - the correct method is to place one finger on the rubber boot and inject grease only to the point the rubber boot becomes inflated with grease and feels a bit firmer like a tyre getting firmer as its inflated - that indicates the grease has been forced through the bearing or ball joint even suffice to inflate the boot at which point stop pumping greased in - observe this method will save any grease boot seal from attracting dirt and accelerating wear of it. - if you observe a boot that has had grease forced out then retract the boot seal back as much as possible and wipe the boot seal lips of any grease.
+AusMecham Hi, great feedback thank you! I agree regarding periodic greasing of U-joints; however, on initial installation of the joint, equal amounts of grease coming from all four seals indicated proper installation and axial play. See Spicer's own video th-cam.com/video/wH-fvddVt-g/w-d-xo.html Thanks.
+WeberAuto Yes that is just with periodic greasing - for initial assembly you'll have some excess grease around after assembly anyway so as long as that's all cleaned up its good to go - Regards, thanks for the reply.
@Aussie101
New centre bearing is about $20 for aftermarket on ebay
By the description on the justcommodores forum Id reckon for a qualified mechanic it would take about 2 hrs....including lunch break.... so about 1 to 1.5 hrs job.
600 bucks, tell em their dreamin and then shop around.
really appreacited video
Thank you!
One other bit of advice for any tail shaft that exhibits vibration yet has no apparent signs of wear or excess clearances - in more then a few cases one or more needle rollers or internal cup faces may have pitted and deteriorated to the point that the cup bearing becomes notched or semi seized yet not slack - to check for the you need to remove the tail shaft and then grasp the yoke and feel how much resistance the cup bearings have when moved about its limits on each X and Y axis, and that the motion is smooth and linear in the bearings - if the bearing motion shows some resistance or has a tight or rough spot then this can be the cause of vibration and the u joint is most certainly on the way to total seizing but may take some time before any slack of excess play is evident - hope that helps.
+AusMecham Thanks, that is exactly right.
+WeberAuto Ill just add that in all cases the first thing I would do it the tests you have explained in detail here, if nothing found the next would be to try to feel for any firm spots while rotating the shaft that can pick up if the cup has a very tight spot in it and in some worse cases you can actually hear or feel a metallic ping in the shaft as it moves through the tight spot, in those cases the inside of cup is usually dry and more advanced stages of seizure but if nothing found to shows the source of the vibration at that point I remove the shaft last resort to check it as I described.
The reason I was asking is because I had a bad center carrier bearing on my tacoma so had it changed. That made things worse. After watching your videos I noticed that the driveshaft isn't in phase. The weights on the front driveshaft is on opposite sides than the back driveshaft
That can be normal; however, If the driveshaft is not in phase, it will can vibrate. The phasing I am talking about is not balance weight related, it is u-joint cap related. All three u-joint bearing caps should be lined up with each other. It is easy to accidentally get them out of phase after changing a center support bearing. Best wishes!
Also i have seen they sell vibration analysis tools though i have my doubts on how good they can be for giving you the correct location of the vibration problem (i.e wheel bearing , driveshaft , balljoints ,...etc to name a few) . But definitely a dial gage can be accurate to tell you if something is out of round causing an issue such as pinion ,wheel hub assembly parts , or driveshaft sections. Ofcourse some times you need different dial gage attachments to set up the dial gage correctly not to bump the wheel stud nuts when measuring out of round of wheel hub assembly parts in some cases.
Thanks for your feedback! This app is the best on the market for vibration diagnosis th-cam.com/video/s1cr3QaOzGY/w-d-xo.html
Your videos are very informative. It must be tougher to make these educational videos while doing the camera work too (this video seems like you're doing everything solo). Thanks and please keep up the great work :)
+Omair Jamal Hi, thank you. Yes, I am just a one man show. Thanks for watching!
+WeberAuto Very good for a one man show, your videos are very informative.
Thank You Sir, Very informative
Thank you!
If somebody told me there was such a thing as staked u-joints before I watched this video I would have called BS. Remarkable....
Thank you
Hi again John. I have a 2013 Dodge Charger RWD. No universal joints. Elastomeric couplings. I have a one-time clunk when load applied ( ie from a stop to a hard acceleration or from coast to hard acceleration). If no you joints, what else should I inspect. I am a mech engineer with lots of tools so lay it on me LOL. Thanks in advance
always great, thank you for your efforts ...
+pei bossman Thank you!
pei broker i like to have information like this he put lots of effort into it
Another informative session, John. Thanks.
?: for the crimp-on style shafts that require complete shaft replacement, is that possibly covered under manufacturer "powertrain warranty" ?
Also, have you seen the carbon fibre shafts being used by BMW for some of their newer M performance models? I was curious as to how they graft the yokes to the ends of the carbon fibre shafts.
+Mario Dalla Riva Hi, thank you! Complete shaft replacement could be covered under the powertrain warranty as long as the time or mileage had not been exceeded. I have heard of the carbon fiber shafts, but know nothing about them. But now I am curious. The Snap-On carbon fiber high voltage sockets and extensions I have seem to have the fiber wrapped around a knurled insert for the drive end and the driven end (with no conductive material in between). I wonder if that is what they are doing. Thanks for the feedback!
Question on an aluminum driveshaft to steel joint causing corrosion. Why doesn't that logic apply to aluminum wheels on steel hubs? I'm working on a dodge with an aluminum shaft I bought from a junkyard and am slowly fixing all it's issues. it's my work truck and it definitely doesn't have the factory joints, but the shaft is a factory spicer. In about to replace the joints but I'm just curious because I cannot find a sealed joint that's also coated and was just curious on why spicer discontinued the sealed one. I've got a greasable one right now but I just don't see how that corrosion doesn't affect engine heads, or anything else for that matter.
I noticed you are working on a Toyota with factory installed grease nipples - These are SO BADLY overlooked! If you take your truck to a Toyota dealer where I am, you have to request for them to grease these parts or they simply will not do it. I do my own anyway, so they get plenty of grease as they need doing regularly and more frequently in the Monsoon season. What I would suggest is due to neglect on these parts, maybe give them a good greasing (as often they will be dry) then give it a week and re-grease and see how the grease flows before replacing joints - often you can get them to loosen up just by refilling and flushing / pumping out the old crud left in there.
WIth the FAD, the Jeep front drive shaft only turns when in 4 wheel drive and is typically used at low speeds. That should prolong the life of the shaft, but when it wears out, replace it with a serviceable aftermarket one.
Thanks for the information
On a 2 peice driveline, should the balance weights on both shafts be on the same side? Like phase the ears on a driveline.
They do not have to be, it depends on the side of balance weight available verses the amount of imbalance. Sometimes two weights are used and spread apart to simulate a smaller weight somewhere in between them. Thanks for your question
U-joints i am ok now with as there are a couple types some have to be melted off the plastic , others have snap rings outside others on inside...but once you take them out it is either a hammering out or pressing out method to replace. I am more concerned about runout being bad on a driveshaft and weather you re-balance it or just replace the whole thing. Basically i know replacement i don't understand so well how to re-balance it once you find it out of round or unbalanced for a driveshaft. Yet at least
Thanks for your feedback!
I am ok with the understanding of measuring drive shaft runout , wheel runout , pinion run out,...etc (with a dial gage though it may take a few try's to perfect) but what i haven't seen is how to balance a out of balance driveshaft once found. It seems like it be similar process to balancing a wheel by adding wheel weights with a hammer. But do you normally replace driveshaft completely or weld metal weights on it ? I am guessing when in doubt just replace the whole driveshaft as that's usually an easy removal/install process but just wondering if anybody still tries to balance an old driveshaft
Hose clamps can be used to balance a driveshaft in the vehicle. It can work very well. See th-cam.com/video/kj78G4wtXKE/w-d-xo.html or th-cam.com/video/egdAjsasiEQ/w-d-xo.html Best wishes!
I just installed a propeller onto the back of my s10. So now, it's a "propeller shaft". 😁
The amount of wiggle in the slip yoke on the output shaft of the trans, how do you tighten that up?
That is what I'm talking about when I say out of phase. The universal joint bearings on the front driveshaft don't line up with the universal joint bearings on the rear driveshaft.they are at least 30 degrees off from on driveshaft to the other
That is no good
Good video
+be ef Thank you!
You said to replace the straps connecting the rear u-joint to the rear flange , I do agree that if they stretch after securing the u-joint they should be replaced
but in todays state of being parts like that could be very hard to find, its not a normal world today.gggg
The Spicer straps can be purchased on amazon.com or ebay. The dealerships SHOULD have them, but most will not. Best wishes!
I have a 2020 Hy7ndai Palisade with 44k kms. It jerks every time a accelerate slowly from sa complete stop, it happens whn i turn left or right. And it is very nitoceable when i am driving round from an underground parking. Dealership cannot find the cause. Thanks
Thanks for watching
Nice infos
這是家族經營分享他的圖騰感覺。
I have a 2013 mustang v6 manual trans. I have a vibration/resonance on deccel between 3100-2200rpm range. Every gear any speed. I've been told its caused by the 2 piece drive shaft or the dual mass flywheel. Any advice on this?
+Joey Sangster Hi, vibrations on deceleration are typically caused by two things: 1. U-joint working angles that are out of spec while decelerating 2. A rear axle with bearing preload problems allowing the pinion gear to be pulled too close to the ring gear while decelerating.
+WeberAuto oh wow. OK thnk u much.
+WeberAuto So how can I fix the rear bearing if that's the issue? does that mean a rear end rebuild? my car is still on warranty as well. should this be covered?
+Joey Sangster
hi, it may be still covered under warranty. Ford dealers haver a vibration analyzer. Hopefully they can tell what problem you have and fix it.
+WeberAuto ok thnx again. ur videos r great. very informing.
i have 04 f150 and has a 6in lift kit it has a loud clunking sound just when taking off from a stop then goes away i push my slip yoke up and down and has play do i need a drive shaft spacer becuase its sticking out more than stock any advise will help
You need a longer driveshaft to compensate for the 6" lift kit. You are lucky the slip yoke even stays in place. Best wishes
I ordered a slip yoke from LMC for a ford f100 1978 they still haven't sent it
gm term is actually propeller or prop shaft
Yes that is true, it comes from the early times before automobiles when marine vessels were the only ones that actually had a shaft between the engine and the propeller. Toyota also calls it a propeller shaft. Thanks for the feedback.
We call it a "tail shaft" in Aus - a "drive shaft" is usually used here to describe "half shafts" (Front WD drive axles)
AusMecham Thanks for the feedback!
Please tell me how to fix my chevy shake issue....please please please
Let's see one on Dodge Calibers.....2008
Are you a mechanic or an air traffic controller?
Both, www.weber.edu/automotive/J_Kelly.html
The bad part about it is that the work was done by a reputable shop
If it's such a big deal steel-aluminum they why do you see say motorcycle wheel bearings paired too aluminum wheels with no problem
GM Junk! just look at the oil weeping from the diff! That heap will be trash after 100,000 miles. it is soaked in oil already!
OF COURSE I HAVE STAKED U JOINTS
I have watched all of these U joints and have almost 6 hours of info. First off take everything you have ever seen on you tube and throw that out the window. Take everything you have learned about how to install and remove and which clips to use, out the window. You really need a PHD in space time contunium to even get the right ones. Steel vs aluminum, carrier earrings and slip yoke Axel play oh my... Been changing these for 30 years with a hammer, press, or vice never any issues. Now I wa snot checking tolerances in up and down/ snap ring sizes, over bent, or ears on the pinion....... This is alot and I am sure it's all relevant but 99.999% of shops-dealers- do it yourself are not doing all this.
這是小騎麟兒珂珂兄弟他們的產業家族型分他的快樂。產統企業集團董事長大大。板板只教感恩。給我福物品質管制優質。不比日本產品嚓可以廖先生加油吧！分享
讚賞家族群有你們集團購屋
Looks like Jeep has been MBA'd to death too.
too much talking, very little meaning.
+k.v Thanks for your feedback
Another great video :) Curiosity did however kill the cat ,and I also just finished watching a 17 part TH-cam video on replacing staked U-Joints. Cringe worthy in many respects especially with Axial play being "overlooked" but in all fairness it would get you to work the next day with no other financial means to do it correctly. Thanks for making these videos you are an exceptional teacher. :)
+Brenda Car Girl Thank you very much. I agree, those staked u-joint shaft fixes might get someone to work the next day, but they may not last as long as the original ones did. As you may have already determined, my teaching philosophy is to teach the correct way to do things. This way when a technician decides to shortcut something, they will have a better idea of what could or could not be shortcut, and why. Have a great day!
+WeberAuto I found it interesting at the end of the Staked U-Joint series that the Gold Standard for proper U-joint installation was "symmetrical grease flow" ,when as you well know some crosses as well as caps have grease transfer grooves machined into them promoting a flow of grease regardless if the assembly is overly tight and bound or overly loose wobbly. Putting snap rings on ears that were not engineered or machined from the factory for any axial adjustment is truly throwing the dice on a craps table in Vegas. :) Again thanks for this great series,I imagine it took a great deal of time to put all this information together as you have.