Tank you, it's help more than a lot!! I'm doing the same repair job on the steering gear of my 1994 Chevrolet 2500 pick up truck. I got the original GM repair manuel, the big one but they explain how to make preload bearing ajustments and also to the pitman arm shaft. Nothing about rebuilding the hole thing. So you guide me to the process in a way that mistake is almost impossible. Tank you!!
Thanks for video. The ball bearings out of my box had no colors. I assume they just polished it off. I measured them and I ended with 12 at .277/2775 the others were .288. I had no manual but perhaps should have down loaded one.
Thanks. As I said, this was my first rebuild too. I just took my time and read a lot first so I had a better idea of what I was doing. I didn't mention it in the video, but I got 2 kits in case I messed up an o-ring or something. I'm pretty wordy so I think there's going to be a part 4, 5, and maybe 6. It's all filmed. I just need to edit and publish. Part 4 is up on my page now.
Great video. I have a leak at the stub shaft. Can the Adjuster plug assembly be removed without removing all the other parts first? I see you removed it last. Thanks
@@ryanworthington6346 I used this pictorial guide as well as a shop manual. www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/how-rebuild-your-saginaw-zj-steering-gear-1287958/
@@ryanworthington6346 No prob. Post some picks when you're done on my FB or @ me on social. I would like to see how it turned out. Video of it running even better!
@@stanthology That's what I was aiming for. Rebuilding a gearbox for the first time can be stressful. The soothing sounds of creaking is a stress reliever. :-)
did your kit come with what looks like a little check valve that is in one of the two ports where the two hoses from the pump attach. Put my mouth down over the one with the one way valve in it and found that sometimes it functions and other times not so good when i try to force air through it in both directions.
+steliosz28 Can't tell that through the internet. You won't know until you crack it open. Most times the adjustments take care of the slop, but until you see what's going on inside, who knows.
@Fish Burger >What a cool screen name, but I digress. Although it’s been 3 years now, the internal spool valve that is “Keyed” to the inside and ball shafts end cap, so it remains stationary. While input shaft fit very close inside, it main purpose it to re-direct P/S fluid to 3 locations. 1st. While not turning, the fluid simply flows into the spool valve, circulates then return thru the low pressure line to the pump. 2nd, when turning left (Depending on the location of the steering linkage / like front of cross member or behind it) the spool valve directs fluid to the rear piston to add power to your turning. When done, let’s fluid go back to the pump. 3rd, When turning right, the spool valve directs fluid thru a passage cast inside the housing to the front, to the forward piston adding power to your turning efforts to help rotate the ball shaft and pushes until you quit rotating the input shaft via the steering wheel. The inner stationary redirection sleeve has to seal to the housing and fits rather tight, as the pump produces pressures up to 1,600 PSI (Pounds per Square Inch) for vehicles equipped with recirculating ball steering gears or just called P/S steering gear box. But, many may not know that the pressure control valve has a smaller orifice for lower pressures used on “Rack & Pinion” units. So If a person is swapping engines and using the pump as the default accessory, beware. If the pump was used on a gear box, it may cause leaks and very easy turning it used on a P/S rack & pinion unit. The pump (Saginaw 800 series) will require the proper valving behind the large 1 inch nut on the high pressure side. It has a smaller hole drilled in it. If the other swap is used, with a pump and valving for a P/S rack, is used on a steering gear box, pressure will be too low. Running, the steering will work, but you will notice little to no assist during the first few times or anytime during driving. Now the pressure valve in the pump will have a smaller hole in it, reducing total pressure. The good news here is to remove the valve, find a drill bit ( Twist Drill ), then go the next size bigger and re-try. Two sizes larger maybe required. There is no chart, but this is how I works. You can always go to your local bone yard and get the right one as well. Several decades ago, GM and other with a rack & pinion steering had a wear issue inside the control head because there no steel sleeve pressured in, the Teflon rings would cause grooves into the soft aluminum housing allowing internal leaks. The two ways to fix was replace the control head / put in a reman rack, or buy a little kit that let you remove th pumps pressure valve, and drill it out to a larger size. It included a little chart that the size drill to use, by year, make and model. I am sure the used car manager was happy. But for getting a replacement pump at the bone yard, be careful for most look the same other than SAE threads or Metric thread depending on the year. A thread pitch gauge from a tap & die set will work fine. Do not depend on wrench size, as metric wrenches will fit SAE nuts, but not the other way around. Hope this info help anyone viewing this his video in the future. It is now March 2020, so be aware.
Hi I had a leak from the input shaft seal. I didn't realise I could have just removed snap ring and pulled the dust seal and seal out. Instead I undone the lock ring and removed the whole input shaft assembly. I changed the seal etc but cannot screw assembly back in as far as it was. I'm stuck. Any ideas appreciated thanks
www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/how-rebuild-your-saginaw-zj-steering-gear-1287958/ That is a real good pictorial of a rebuild. Maybe the mating of the worm shaft and the valve body/stub shaft didn't get the pin in that notch. Not sure.
So I.m doing the rebuild on my 79 CJ7 steering gear box. I ordered the rebuild kit from Auto Zone #8522 and the input shaft bearing & seal & dust cover are smaller than the one's I took out. Has anyone ran into this situation?
Not sure when it comes to CJ's. Double check the rebuild kit part number on a few different sites and see if another kit pops up. By that I mean search using your vehicle year and model and see if there aren't 2 kits or something.
Obrigado. Quanto ao manual de serviço, tenho uma cópia impressa da velha escola. Você pode obtê-los agora em CD e em formato PDF. Aqui está um link para o manual impresso que eu tenho. Eu comprei o meu no show de carro de um cara que vende esse tipo de coisa. Boa sorte! www.factoryrepairmanuals.com/1987-olds-cutlass-supreme-salon-cruiser-factory-service-manual-original-shop-repair/
Hi, hutchhiperf, I purchased a rebuild seal kit, just the seals from local parts store. But I have a problem, the kit did not come with the right size adjuster plug/stub shaft seal. It was about a 3/16 bigger then my old seal's outer diameter, way to big. I been back and forth with local auto part stores and non of them seem to be able to get me the right size stub shaft seal. So I ordered it on ebay and this kit came with the dust seal, which my other full seal kit(from local store) did not come with, because that kit has the dust seal integrated into the seal itself, not 2 pieces like mine and yours. But the kit I got on ebay had the same style as yours and mine, with 2 piece dust and seal. But its still to big, about 3/16. I have a 94 dodge 2500 8,800gvw and I can not seem to get the right size seal! Wondering if you knew if Saginaw changed the size on these Saginaw gearboxes that I might have a rare one or something. I don't know, I m pulling my hair out at this point because I did not want to go to the dodge stealers!
I looked around and found this site talking about identifying the box www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/1069713-identifying-saginaw-steering-box.html I'm not sure if there was a change or not. What brand of seal kit did you get? What parts store? My Duralast kit (which is just packaged with their name, these kits are usually made by only a few manufacturers) was spot on with the seal sizes. I say if the dealer has the parts, return the other kits and get one you know will fit. Sometimes a call to the dealer with your issue can get results. They may tell you something about the box that the local doesn't know. Post back with what you find. Good luck.
Yeah the casting number on the box is 84. My seal size is 1 1/4 in. outer diameter. There seems to be 2 different style/size seals on the stub/input shaft around my particular yr. Then 95 and up they went back to the 1 1/2 in. outer dia. bigger seal. So mine is pain in the but to find. I wish they would keep record of the diameter of the seals when you buy them. That would make things a lot easier and more assuring.
I would check where those new bearings, seals are made, cuz if they're made in CHINA, you're better off with the original old GM stuff, the quality of the oem GM parts from the 1960-70's has proven itself again and again, to be far superior to the repop Chinese parts. better metallurgy and tolerances, that's all there is to it.
Yes. It's a booger, I know. The steering worm mates on one side and the spool (and the valve body IT goes into is on the other) all these pieces have to mate correctly. You'll get it, I know.
Great help these video's , I have 1 Question . Why don't you clean up the valves and all stuff whith a cleaner I found a lot of durty stuf inside and cleand it whit brake cleaner before installing and lubricate as you have shown Inglish is a bit rusty I am from Holland
Although not shown, I did clean everything as best I could. There were some internal parts that still looked a bit dirty (discolored over time), but they were cleaned. I promise. Thanks for watching.
hutchhiperf Hi I think that your steeringbox have overheaded because of the colour of the parts and the O rings are so hard mine was " only " leaking Was a great help for me thank you so much Greetings from Pingjum Holland Paul Rooth
paul pieter Rooth Actually, I disagree. It's a near 30 year box. Hard seals are no surprise and the coloration was from sitting in that black fluid for years. Ever seen the bottom of an intake manifold when removed? It has that same brown discoloration. Regardless, it's all better now :-)
hutchhiperf Hi Mine is 31 Years old but no hard seals and the oil was black as wel as the parts the brown discoleration as you have show was even darker in mine steeringbox and whit breakcleaner I get that of and the metal was shiny a. You were talking about an intake manifold, and that's the same misery. Metal cleaning with oven cleaner and after you hose it down and you get the metal clean and as good as new when I swapped the powersteeringbox I do that also , you have made it easy to do in 2 hours time if you're a bit handy I did it in 2 hours and was my 1st so the next in 1 and a have ( lol ) Thank you again
hutchhiperf i know the kit has all the seals but my gearbox only leaks on the metering pin it looks like a guide pin but it leaks on the guide pin and input shaft thats all i want to know ,thanks and my gearbox doesn’t have not even a mile on it only the turns to bleed the air from pump
Good video, but not a rebuild. There’s a misconception on here that resealing is a rebuild. Change sector shaft bearing and you can call it a “rebuild”.
My ACDelco "rebuild kit" did NOT include MANY of the seals, o-rings, or bearings that your Delco kit included!! Do not buy the ACDelco kit!! Just finished rebuilding my steering box, and I wish I'd been able to find your cideo BEFORE buying the ACDelco kit! We'll see how long my "rebuild" stays leak-free! BTW, it's on my 2004 Silverado 2500HD, 4x4.
And another mislabeled video. This is not a rebuild, it’s a reseal. When you don’t change the most crucial of bearings, the sector shaft bearings, then it’s not a rebuild.
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Tank you, it's help more than a lot!! I'm doing the same repair job on the steering gear of my 1994 Chevrolet 2500 pick up truck. I got the original GM repair manuel, the big one but they explain how to make preload bearing ajustments and also to the pitman arm shaft. Nothing about rebuilding the hole thing. So you guide me to the process in a way that mistake is almost impossible. Tank you!!
dude did this 9 years ago and is still helping ppl
This the most detailed video I have seen on gearbox rebuild. No other videos showed how to clock the bearing inside the valvebody. Thank you
You're very welcome sir!!
excellent! I was 'stuck' on removing the valve spool from the stub shaft. your instructions were perfect.
Absolute best video on Saginaw 800. Much appreciated.
Thank you sir
This work has been useful and I was able to repair this piece in my car gmc Suburban 91 Thank you
Excellent video! Nice and complete!
Thanks Mike!
Sir you are giving better idea to all mechanics
Great Work :)
saved my ass on this project. thanks dude!
No prob. Thank you.
Thanks for video. The ball bearings out of my box had no colors. I assume they just polished it off. I measured them and I ended with 12 at .277/2775 the others were .288. I had no manual but perhaps should have down loaded one.
Thanks. As I said, this was my first rebuild too. I just took my time and read a lot first so I had a better idea of what I was doing. I didn't mention it in the video, but I got 2 kits in case I messed up an o-ring or something. I'm pretty wordy so I think there's going to be a part 4, 5, and maybe 6. It's all filmed. I just need to edit and publish. Part 4 is up on my page now.
Traducir
The spool will slide right in if you install from the other side!
Great video.
I have a leak at the stub shaft. Can the Adjuster plug assembly be removed without removing all the other parts first? I see you removed it last.
Thanks
“Ah oh that’s nice”. It almost sounded like we were getting into adult video. lol. Great video!!!
HA!! I do tend to get "happy" working on stuff like that :-)
hutchhiperf I’m rebuilding one of these on Monday. You have any tips that could help that you’ve learned since the video?
@@ryanworthington6346 I used this pictorial guide as well as a shop manual. www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/how-rebuild-your-saginaw-zj-steering-gear-1287958/
hutchhiperf thank you.
@@ryanworthington6346 No prob. Post some picks when you're done on my FB or @ me on social. I would like to see how it turned out. Video of it running even better!
I got a steering gearbox 60 years old
I like the sound of the Black Lagoon in the background.
Haha! Yeah, that old camera was crap. Like I was filming on a 1700's ship in rough waters.
@@hutchhiperf The sound of frogs is soothing.
@@stanthology That's what I was aiming for. Rebuilding a gearbox for the first time can be stressful. The soothing sounds of creaking is a stress reliever. :-)
did your kit come with what looks like a little check valve that is in one of the two ports where the two hoses from the pump attach. Put my mouth down over the one with the one way valve in it and found that sometimes it functions and other times not so good when i try to force air through it in both directions.
tom johns No. And I didn't mess with mine.
I think I drove the seals in too much for the input shaft... There's a space between the snap ring and the dust seal
Is this rebuild kit will fix the play on the steering box or it will also need new gears?
+steliosz28 Can't tell that through the internet. You won't know until you crack it open. Most times the adjustments take care of the slop, but until you see what's going on inside, who knows.
WHAT IS THE O RING ON THE SPOOL VALVE FOR WHAT DOES IT SEAL
I HAVE A PROJECT DUE TOMORROW BUT I STILL DON'T KNOW
@Fish Burger >What a cool screen name, but I digress. Although it’s been 3 years now, the internal spool valve that is “Keyed” to the inside and ball shafts end cap, so it remains stationary. While input shaft fit very close inside, it main purpose it to re-direct P/S fluid to 3 locations. 1st. While not turning, the fluid simply flows into the spool valve, circulates then return thru the low pressure line to the pump. 2nd, when turning left (Depending on the location of the steering linkage / like front of cross member or behind it) the spool valve directs fluid to the rear piston to add power to your turning. When done, let’s fluid go back to the pump. 3rd, When turning right, the spool valve directs fluid thru a passage cast inside the housing to the front, to the forward piston adding power to your turning efforts to help rotate the ball shaft and pushes until you quit rotating the input shaft via the steering wheel. The inner stationary redirection sleeve has to seal to the housing and fits rather tight, as the pump produces pressures up to 1,600 PSI (Pounds per Square Inch) for vehicles equipped with recirculating ball steering gears or just called P/S steering gear box. But, many may not know that the pressure control valve has a smaller orifice for lower pressures used on “Rack & Pinion” units.
So If a person is swapping engines and using the pump as the default accessory, beware. If the pump was used on a gear box, it may cause leaks and very easy turning it used on a P/S rack & pinion unit. The pump (Saginaw 800 series) will require the proper valving behind the large 1 inch nut on the high pressure side. It has a smaller hole drilled in it.
If the other swap is used, with a pump and valving for a P/S rack, is used on a steering gear box, pressure will be too low. Running, the steering will work, but you will notice little to no assist during the first few times or anytime during driving. Now the pressure valve in the pump will have a smaller hole in it, reducing total pressure. The good news here is to remove the valve, find a drill bit ( Twist Drill ), then go the next size bigger and re-try. Two sizes larger maybe required. There is no chart, but this is how I works. You can always go to your local bone yard and get the right one as well. Several decades ago, GM and other with a rack & pinion steering had a wear issue inside the control head because there no steel sleeve pressured in, the Teflon rings would cause grooves into the soft aluminum housing allowing internal leaks. The two ways to fix was replace the control head / put in a reman rack, or buy a little kit that let you remove th pumps pressure valve, and drill it out to a larger size. It included a little chart that the size drill to use, by year, make and model. I am sure the used car manager was happy. But for getting a replacement pump at the bone yard, be careful for most look the same other than SAE threads or Metric thread depending on the year. A thread pitch gauge from a tap & die set will work fine. Do not depend on wrench size, as metric wrenches will fit SAE nuts, but not the other way around. Hope this info help anyone viewing this his video in the future. It is now March 2020, so be aware.
Hi I had a leak from the input shaft seal. I didn't realise I could have just removed snap ring and pulled the dust seal and seal out. Instead I undone the lock ring and removed the whole input shaft assembly. I changed the seal etc but cannot screw assembly back in as far as it was. I'm stuck. Any ideas appreciated thanks
www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/how-rebuild-your-saginaw-zj-steering-gear-1287958/
That is a real good pictorial of a rebuild. Maybe the mating of the worm shaft and the valve body/stub shaft didn't get the pin in that notch. Not sure.
Steering box assembly for lsuzu
So I.m doing the rebuild on my 79 CJ7 steering gear box. I ordered the rebuild kit from Auto Zone #8522 and the input shaft bearing & seal & dust cover are smaller than the one's I took out. Has anyone ran into this situation?
Not sure when it comes to CJ's. Double check the rebuild kit part number on a few different sites and see if another kit pops up. By that I mean search using your vehicle year and model and see if there aren't 2 kits or something.
Ok !!!!
Boa tarde, sou brasileiro, inscrito no seu canal. Gostaria de saber se tem como você disponibilizar esse MANUAl. Obrigado!
Obrigado. Quanto ao manual de serviço, tenho uma cópia impressa da velha escola. Você pode obtê-los agora em CD e em formato PDF. Aqui está um link para o manual impresso que eu tenho. Eu comprei o meu no show de carro de um cara que vende esse tipo de coisa. Boa sorte!
www.factoryrepairmanuals.com/1987-olds-cutlass-supreme-salon-cruiser-factory-service-manual-original-shop-repair/
Hi, hutchhiperf,
I purchased a rebuild seal kit, just the seals from local parts store. But I have a problem, the kit did not come with the right size adjuster plug/stub shaft seal. It was about a 3/16 bigger then my old seal's outer diameter, way to big. I been back and forth with local auto part stores and non of them seem to be able to get me the right size stub shaft seal. So I ordered it on ebay and this kit came with the dust seal, which my other full seal kit(from local store) did not come with, because that kit has the dust seal integrated into the seal itself, not 2 pieces like mine and yours. But the kit I got on ebay had the same style as yours and mine, with 2 piece dust and seal. But its still to big, about 3/16. I have a 94 dodge 2500 8,800gvw and I can not seem to get the right size seal! Wondering if you knew if Saginaw changed the size on these Saginaw gearboxes that I might have a rare one or something. I don't know, I m pulling my hair out at this point because I did not want to go to the dodge stealers!
I looked around and found this site talking about identifying the box www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/1069713-identifying-saginaw-steering-box.html I'm not sure if there was a change or not. What brand of seal kit did you get? What parts store? My Duralast kit (which is just packaged with their name, these kits are usually made by only a few manufacturers) was spot on with the seal sizes. I say if the dealer has the parts, return the other kits and get one you know will fit. Sometimes a call to the dealer with your issue can get results. They may tell you something about the box that the local doesn't know. Post back with what you find. Good luck.
Yeah the casting number on the box is 84. My seal size is 1 1/4 in. outer diameter. There seems to be 2 different style/size seals on the stub/input shaft around my particular yr. Then 95 and up they went back to the 1 1/2 in. outer dia. bigger seal. So mine is pain in the but to find. I wish they would keep record of the diameter of the seals when you buy them. That would make things a lot easier and more assuring.
I would check where those new bearings, seals are made, cuz if they're made in CHINA, you're better off with the original old GM stuff, the quality of the oem GM parts from the 1960-70's has proven itself again and again, to be far superior to the repop Chinese parts. better metallurgy and tolerances, that's all there is to it.
Does the stub shaft have to sit in the spool valve straight. Can’t get mine to
Yes. It's a booger, I know. The steering worm mates on one side and the spool (and the valve body IT goes into is on the other) all these pieces have to mate correctly. You'll get it, I know.
Great help these video's , I have 1 Question .
Why don't you clean up the valves and all stuff whith a cleaner
I found a lot of durty stuf inside and cleand it whit brake cleaner before installing and lubricate as you have shown
Inglish is a bit rusty I am from Holland
Although not shown, I did clean everything as best I could. There were some internal parts that still looked a bit dirty (discolored over time), but they were cleaned. I promise. Thanks for watching.
hutchhiperf
Hi I think that your steeringbox have overheaded because of the colour of the parts and the O rings are so hard mine was " only " leaking
Was a great help for me thank you so much
Greetings from Pingjum Holland
Paul Rooth
paul pieter Rooth Actually, I disagree. It's a near 30 year box. Hard seals are no surprise and the coloration was from sitting in that black fluid for years. Ever seen the bottom of an intake manifold when removed? It has that same brown discoloration. Regardless, it's all better now :-)
hutchhiperf Hi Mine is 31 Years old but no hard seals and the oil was black as wel as the parts the brown discoleration as you have show was even darker in mine steeringbox and whit breakcleaner I get that of and the metal was shiny a.
You were talking about an intake manifold, and that's the same misery.
Metal cleaning with oven cleaner and after you hose it down and you get the metal clean and as good as new
when I swapped the powersteeringbox I do that also , you have made it easy to do in 2 hours time if you're a bit handy
I did it in 2 hours and was my 1st so the next in 1 and a have ( lol )
Thank you again
Any idea if that rebuild kit was for the 3" or 3.5" cylinder.
It was for an 86 Monte SS Saginaw 800. That's the parameter I used to find the right rebuild kit.
@@hutchhiperf Thanks. I'm rebuilding my 67 GTO. First kit was wrong.
@@larrycrookshanks1646 that's a bummer.
If I were better at editing I would have done a voice over and gotten rid of it entirely.
the pin or guide on the stub shaft is leaking is there a seal
??? Every seal to rebuild the box is in the kit.
hutchhiperf i know the kit has all the seals but my gearbox only leaks on the metering pin it looks like a guide pin but it leaks on the guide pin and input shaft thats all i want to know ,thanks and my gearbox doesn’t have not even a mile on it only the turns to bleed the air from pump
How many pomegranates wear inside the can
?????????? It was mostly pears.
@@hutchhiperf 🤔
brake fluid??????
Haha. I get that every once in a while! I said that instead of PS Fluid and never edited it out.
very strange background noise.
Haha Yeah, it was my old crappy camera. It recorded on mini-disc and you could hear the motor inside driving the disc spool. PITA!!
Good video, but not a rebuild. There’s a misconception on here that resealing is a rebuild. Change sector shaft bearing and you can call it a “rebuild”.
My ACDelco "rebuild kit" did NOT include MANY of the seals, o-rings, or bearings that your Delco kit included!!
Do not buy the ACDelco kit!!
Just finished rebuilding my steering box, and I wish I'd been able to find your cideo BEFORE buying the ACDelco kit!
We'll see how long my "rebuild" stays leak-free!
BTW, it's on my 2004 Silverado 2500HD, 4x4.
Sorry to hear that. Mine was just a Duralast Kit from Autozone. At least you got it done!! Good luck!!
And another mislabeled video. This is not a rebuild, it’s a reseal. When you don’t change the most crucial of bearings, the sector shaft bearings, then it’s not a rebuild.