So Bill I was watching football but listening to your video. I've been doing this process for years & it really builds confidence when trying to control your destiny. I used to make .006 tolerance shafts into much better than that by controlling the variables. I now hunt with the Blackeagle X-Impact's which only come with the .001 variety. Not to mention that a 250 spine g.p.i. is the same weight as many 300 spine arrows for us guys with long draws. I really like the 4 vane Bohning X3 low profile configuration. I'm shooting the Valkyrie Viking Centerpin system whether it's a field point or head. My shafts r ordered & cut by someone like Lancaster & I have a Lumenok tool so I make sure that both ends of the shafts r square. I bare shaft shoot all shafts & grade them b4 I fletch them. Since I'm shooting the micros I just keep my jig in the 4 fletch pattern. Everything from start to finish is so controlled that I do not get any errant arrows by the end of the process. I even use a stabilizer made by Conquest Archery that's called the Control Freak. It's also micro diameter so I guess my mission has come full circle. Hope to see Jordan take a nice buck & that u get your 2nd one 😉.
Thanks Joseph. That is a thorough system for sure. I know that many top shooters swear by the low-profile four-fletch and that would likely make my tuning with the drop away rest a lot easier. I have not used it yet since my jig only has the detents for three fletch. I suppose I just need to get a new jig, but I have shot three fletch for years and killed so many animals with those arrows that I don't see the reason to change. I have never had an arrow to blame for any bad outcomes. I shoot them all with broadheads before they go in my quiver. All good input. Good luck this season.
Small little tip after you expoy the outsert on it to stand the arrows up in a corner or against the wall so the expoy settles/dries evenly. If u lay them down on a table the expoy will settle/dry to one side.. Love your channel Bill really inspire me to become a better whitetail hunter!! Best of luck to Jordan this season!!
Would love a “setup” segment going deep into detail with the planting acorns/improving deer habitat. Have some fields I’m really interested in planting oak in but not real sure what steps to take and what all goes into it exactly. Also, where to plant, where not to plant, etc.
We should have done that one instead. I had to make Jordan's new arrows anyway so we just filmed that. I will definitely go into detail on direct seeding during the off season.
Thanks Will. Jordan did break the ice with a doe a few nights ago, but we are still working on a buck. There are not many deer here, relative to some parts of NE Iowa so it has been a bit of slow process. I bet you didn't know there was a full on elementary school in little Dorchester when I was a boy. That was a tough crowd. Times have really changed. There were people all over the countryside back then. Now the farmers are much larger and the overall population of the county is less. I had 210 kids in my graduating class in Waukon!
@@bill-winke I did know they had a school there at one time but wasn't sure of any details. We used to stop into the bar and grill in Dorchester and eat from time to time. Love NE Iowa I have property by Arlington now and it has been slow there this year as well. I build arrows too. More than I could ever shoot! If you ever want some custom cresting done let me know. Be safe and good luck with the rest of the season!
For years I’ve used 91% alcohol and wipe the shaft and the vane base. Using Gorilla brand instant adhesive I very very seldom loose a vane. I also clean the inside of the shaft with alcohol on a q- tip. Wipe the insert shaft or target point shaft too. I like the low temp hot melt for points. I heat the insert/ point just a little then apply some melted hot melt. I heat the hot melt stick so it’s almost liquid then apply to the warm point shaft. Pushing it into the shaft and done. Cools in 10 minutes ready to shoot.
Tim, it can be a strange combination of steps to produce a good bond, but once you find that magic formula it is impossible to get the fletching off the arrow without ruining it.
Bill, you might have done this on other videos....could you show your tree stand set ups from the ground. I would like to see height, backdrop etc... thanks for the arrow instruction !! Joe
I've been using Loc-tite control gel for years great product hit the front and back of vane with Bohning platinum. Always wipe vane with acetone been doing that sense the 80's also. Aluminum never held with super glue fleth-tite was great but carbon love's super glue.
Bill, I started doing this for the first time a couple years ago, and it really is fun and rewarding. Next batch I do, I was considering spine indexing them. Do you do that or is it overrated? From what I can tell, it will help some consistency, but nothing really dramatic. Maybe it’s not worth the trouble, but I shoot Goldtips and if I can figure out if they spine index them when they manufacture them, I could fletch them up equally at least and not have to “find” the spine.
Ryan, thanks for the comment. I really doubt that any arrow company right now tests spine and then marks it. It is very hard to find any discernable spine difference on an arrow that is well made. Just for fun I rolled the Day Six arrows in my quiver across a flat surface, pushing down with my palm on the middle of the shaft, and there is no change in spine that I can detect this way. I used to make my own fishing poles and that is how we found the spine on the blanks. Even those are made so well now that it is hard to find a difference. I believe Randy Ulmer used to plug both ends and float his arrows to see if one side consistently came up to the top. He then marked that side and fletched all his arrows exactly the same versus the marked side. For a while Easton used to quote stiffness around the shaft as a spec item, but it was always very low - like within a couple percent. I suppose the best way to test it is to put each arrow in some kind of simple fixture and put a certain weight on the end and then measure flex as you turn them. My guess is that you won't find much difference and then if you index and fletch them all according to the spine index you won't see much difference in your shooting unless you are a world class archer shooting longer distances. Good luck.
@@bill-winke that’s the feeling I’ve gotten from researching a bit. I’m shooting deer from 30 yards and in. I don’t care about shooting long distance targets and such. I can’t imagine it’d make a noticeable difference. It’d probably be more frustrating to do all the work to have them all indexed and then not see a difference. 🤦♂️🤣
When I bareshaft shoot I do it with a SEVR target that I put onto a stand. That way I'm shooting level @ the target. I'm looking more to see the angle @ impact with no vanes on a stiff self healing foam target. The side of SEVR target has no spots, just a grid pattern. Sometimes u shoot a shaft a few times & its close but not like the others. With that one a nock turn of 45 to 90 degrees will make a difference. But it's not something that shows up on every 3rd or 4th arrow. U are just focusing on a perfect release & the grid pattern tells u when the arrow is just a little funky.
The wrap goes on easier if you put it on a mousepad and then just roll the arrow. I'm not a big wrap fan, either, but it gives me just a little bit more arrow visibility to find after a shot.
That makes sense Karl. I guess I have not used them at all over the years, but I wanted to show that option in this video. I think I have actually built wrapped arrows for my quiver once and didn't like them, so I never did it again. Good input.
I've never used any wrapped arrows. For arrow visibility, there's nothing better than a lighted knock. I've had them shut off on impact, especially after hitting bone. The ones I use are almost double the length of a standard knock, something to keep in mind when cutting your arrow length. Happy hunting!
Late to the party but what he said ☝️ a mouse pad is a must for putting wraps on. I've been fletching my own for years and when it comes to wraps just eye up the arrow against the wrap on the mouse pad so you are even with the end and the gap is even along the length of the shaft and just go for it and roll it away from you in one steady motion and the "squish" of the mouse pad will take care of providing the perfect amount of tension/ pressure on the wrap so its perfect every time with no air bubbles. Keep up the good work Bill I've really been enjoying "the setup" series and also watching you pass on the tradition to Jordan.
Cresting/wraps are great for traditional bow hunters. The wrap isn't so much for seeing the arrow in flight, but to see the arrow in the animal if it doesn't pass through the animal. Also, cresting does help in the recovery of the arrow. And a reflective wrap will be very visible at twilight or dark when a flashlight shines on them.
You know that is not a bad idea. We are going to start offering some "Bowhunting Whitetails" shirts and hats. Jordan is a graphic designer my trade and she has been working on some designs. Coming out soon, but those wraps might be a good addition.
Collin, I don't currently. I should for the sake of the video, but that is just one more variable that I have to control to make a good shooting arrow. Most of them are probably very good, but I am a minimalist. The less I can attach to my arrow, the better. I will probably get some before next season. Good luck.
Curious on your thoughts about the indexer on the actual nock and finding the arrow spine? I always line the nock indexer up with the spine of the shaft before fletching so every arrow starts in the jig the same. Also found that alot of times the cock vane is sometimes cut a little different than the other 2 so using all 3 of the same vane is more consistent. The nock indexer is always pointed out when I load an arrow to avoid confusion. Am I wasting time?
It may be overkill for typical whitetail shots, but if you are a great shot looking for every tiny edge in competition it probably makes sense. I know Randy Ulmer used to tune his arrows based on spine very similar to what you are doing. Well made arrows have very little variation in stiffness around the shaft but not all arrows are well made.
Bill- any thoughts on whisker biscuits vs drop away rests when it comes to veins? I recently switch to a drop away as my biscuit constantly ripped the veins off my arrows.
I have shot both of them a fair bit. I just didn't like the fact that the biscuit tore my fletching when I used helical offset. They are very idiot-proof though and that is a good thing. Some of the experts I have talked with suggest that the fact the arrow is in contact with the bow longer and that makes the bow less forgiving of movements in your bow hand during the shot. But, that may not be a factor on the short shots we generally take when whitetail hunting. I would never tell someone not to shoot the Whisker Biscuit, they just need to refletch their arrows a bit more often.
Love the content Bill. IMO, arrow noise definitely causes jumpers in a lot of cases. These new bows are so quite, if you’re shooting 60 yards at a feeding animal, do they even hear the bow? Also deer are used to small sudden short sounds in nature (acorns, walnuts, branches, squirrels dropping stuff). I feel like it’s a lot of times the hissing sound of the arrow that they here is heading right at them. If you watch long range shots, I think the animals always start dropping when the arrow is 25-30 yards away from them, regardless how far the shot. Sound travels over 3 times faster than our arrows, if they make any noise, the deer will hear it before it hits them. Broadheads I think are a bigger issue with this than fletching. This is my opinion.
Javin, I have definitely had at least my share of string jumpers. I am not sure. I still think it is the release in most cases. My biggest problems come at 30 to 40 yards. Seems that 30 is the worst. I believe they are reacting to the sound of the bow firing. Will keep studying it, but I do like the way you think. String jumping is a much bigger issue than most people think. They say, "OH, I hit him high!" They don't see what the camera sees, the buck dropping six to ten inches.
Hey Bill! I was thinking about your video “Trapped in a tree” that you did about a month or 2 ago. Did you ever try the monster truck idea to scare deer off and get out of the blind/tree without them knowing it’s you? If so would love to hear about it!
Brayden, I have not. I chose to use a small drone that I can easily carry in my pack. Fly it out and land it in the plot a couple hours before the end of legal time and then lift it off to spook the deer when it is time to leave. We have not not to test it yet since the spots we have hunted haven't had deer in them at the end of legal time. Good luck.
Eventually we will have some cool hats and shirts for sale, but really when you make a buying decision, if you consider our sponsors that would be great. Thanks for asking. Have a great weekend.
To me I always cut my arrows to link first then I'll start with one Arrow fletch Arrow bear see how they tune out of the bowl and what length to continue to cut them down little bit by little bit until they tune perfect or just cut them to your drawing you know your point wait you know everything from there I go on with the process of squaring the ends of my arrows I spend my arrows to make sure there's no wobble put the insert in then spin it again to make sure that the insert is flush and squared Mark everything glue everything and then start the Fletching process after I have shot them through paper making sure that the spine of the arrow each one of them are lined up to each other so by shooting them through paper you make sure that each one has the same Bullet Hole Mark the knock Mark the arrow then Fletch accordingly with the mark facing up
Boy, that is a very thorough approach. I cut them, fletch them and then turn the nock from arrow to arrow until they are flying well. I use a drop away rest so there is not as much problem with this approach as it would be if shooting another rest style. Sometimes I have to mark the new cock vane with a sharpie. Each arrow may have a very slightly different nock rotation depending on how it flies best. I find that the pressure point of my grip and my string arm at full draw (where the elbow is pointing) and even the amount my bow hand is relaxed have a huge effect on arrow flight. Those are the things I mess with once I get everything set up if the arrows are still not flying right. Good luck.
And Lancaster had some done some high-speed video if you watch it the arrow that comes off of your bow with the right fun string so clockwise will 98% of the time clock to the left if you fled to the right that Arrow will come off of the boat to the left down range it has to stop in mid flight and correct to the wedgie and start turning into the right I don't know how much difference it makes but I don't want to interrupt the flight of my arrow
The Easton slow mo videos I watched many years ago showed the arrows coming out straight when fired with a release and skidding through the air at leadt 3 or 4 feet before they even started to turn. Possibly the stiffer vanes we are using today change that dynamic somewhat.
I still don't think much out there shoots like feathers they were always great at stearing big fixed heads like the Simmons land sharks that need some steering lol
I shot feathers for a long time but gave them up when I couldn't keep them dry in rainy weather. I actually hunted with Jerry Simmons one time out in Colorado for mule deer one time. I really liked him. Great guy.
@@lisaannaallen6283 Shine = light... deer cannot see light that is why headlamps do not scare them. There are also a lot of things in nature that are white. I suppose they blow at every milkweed pod they see?
@@lisaannaallen6283 Why? I already know they see the blue end of the spectrum but cannot pick up reds. That has nothing to do with what we were talking about though.
please do more setup vids this channel is very quickly becoming my favorite keep up the great work
Thanks. I appreciate the support. We will start cranking them out once the season is over. Hard to do those while hunting too. Good luck.
So Bill I was watching football but listening to your video. I've been doing this process for years & it really builds confidence when trying to control your destiny. I used to make .006 tolerance shafts into much better than that by controlling the variables. I now hunt with the Blackeagle X-Impact's which only come with the .001 variety. Not to mention that a 250 spine g.p.i. is the same weight as many 300 spine arrows for us guys with long draws. I really like the 4 vane Bohning X3 low profile configuration. I'm shooting the Valkyrie Viking Centerpin system whether it's a field point or head. My shafts r ordered & cut by someone like Lancaster & I have a Lumenok tool so I make sure that both ends of the shafts r square. I bare shaft shoot all shafts & grade them b4 I fletch them. Since I'm shooting the micros I just keep my jig in the 4 fletch pattern. Everything from start to finish is so controlled that I do not get any errant arrows by the end of the process. I even use a stabilizer made by Conquest Archery that's called the Control Freak. It's also micro diameter so I guess my mission has come full circle. Hope to see Jordan take a nice buck & that u get your 2nd one 😉.
Thanks Joseph. That is a thorough system for sure. I know that many top shooters swear by the low-profile four-fletch and that would likely make my tuning with the drop away rest a lot easier. I have not used it yet since my jig only has the detents for three fletch. I suppose I just need to get a new jig, but I have shot three fletch for years and killed so many animals with those arrows that I don't see the reason to change. I have never had an arrow to blame for any bad outcomes. I shoot them all with broadheads before they go in my quiver. All good input. Good luck this season.
Small little tip after you expoy the outsert on it to stand the arrows up in a corner or against the wall so the expoy settles/dries evenly. If u lay them down on a table the expoy will settle/dry to one side.. Love your channel Bill really inspire me to become a better whitetail hunter!! Best of luck to Jordan this season!!
Thanks 98Blower. That's a good tip. Also thanks for the well wishes. Have a great day.
Would love a “setup” segment going deep into detail with the planting acorns/improving deer habitat. Have some fields I’m really interested in planting oak in but not real sure what steps to take and what all goes into it exactly. Also, where to plant, where not to plant, etc.
We should have done that one instead. I had to make Jordan's new arrows anyway so we just filmed that. I will definitely go into detail on direct seeding during the off season.
Good video Bill. I used to own a farm by Dorchester close to you. Keep up the good work and great vids!! Ready to see Jordan get one down! Cheers!
Thanks Will. Jordan did break the ice with a doe a few nights ago, but we are still working on a buck. There are not many deer here, relative to some parts of NE Iowa so it has been a bit of slow process. I bet you didn't know there was a full on elementary school in little Dorchester when I was a boy. That was a tough crowd. Times have really changed. There were people all over the countryside back then. Now the farmers are much larger and the overall population of the county is less. I had 210 kids in my graduating class in Waukon!
@@bill-winke I did know they had a school there at one time but wasn't sure of any details. We used to stop into the bar and grill in Dorchester and eat from time to time. Love NE Iowa I have property by Arlington now and it has been slow there this year as well. I build arrows too. More than I could ever shoot! If you ever want some custom cresting done let me know. Be safe and good luck with the rest of the season!
Great video Bill, looks like fun to build your own.
It is fun Mitchell and you get to control all the variables. Good luck.
Looks like Day 6 makes some solid stuff! Jordan should have no problem putting a big one on the ground with those.
Yes, they are solid arrows. She actually did shoot a doe the other day and got a pass-through at 40 pounds so that was good. Good luck.
For years I’ve used 91% alcohol and wipe the shaft and the vane base. Using Gorilla brand instant adhesive I very very seldom loose a vane. I also clean the inside of the shaft with alcohol on a q- tip. Wipe the insert shaft or target point shaft too. I like the low temp hot melt for points. I heat the insert/ point just a little then apply some melted hot melt. I heat the hot melt stick so it’s almost liquid then apply to the warm point shaft. Pushing it into the shaft and done. Cools in 10 minutes ready to shoot.
Tim, it can be a strange combination of steps to produce a good bond, but once you find that magic formula it is impossible to get the fletching off the arrow without ruining it.
Bill, you might have done this on other videos....could you show your tree stand set ups from the ground. I would like to see height, backdrop etc...
thanks for the arrow instruction !!
Joe
Thanks Joe. We will add that to the list. I appreciate the feedback. Have a great day.
Bill, I use a foam mouse pad to roll wraps on. Works great.
That does make sense. I didn't get the wrap to stick to the shaft without pressing it down with my fingers. Your method sounds like a good one.
your videos have been great, really practical stuff- thank you
Thanks Ralph. Much appreciated. Have a great weekend.
I've been using Loc-tite control gel for years great product hit the front and back of vane with Bohning platinum. Always wipe vane with acetone been doing that sense the 80's also. Aluminum never held with super glue fleth-tite was great but carbon love's super glue.
Yes, Awesome Bill. Your experiences mirror my own. Good luck and have a great day.
Bill, I started doing this for the first time a couple years ago, and it really is fun and rewarding. Next batch I do, I was considering spine indexing them. Do you do that or is it overrated? From what I can tell, it will help some consistency, but nothing really dramatic. Maybe it’s not worth the trouble, but I shoot Goldtips and if I can figure out if they spine index them when they manufacture them, I could fletch them up equally at least and not have to “find” the spine.
Ryan, thanks for the comment. I really doubt that any arrow company right now tests spine and then marks it. It is very hard to find any discernable spine difference on an arrow that is well made. Just for fun I rolled the Day Six arrows in my quiver across a flat surface, pushing down with my palm on the middle of the shaft, and there is no change in spine that I can detect this way. I used to make my own fishing poles and that is how we found the spine on the blanks. Even those are made so well now that it is hard to find a difference. I believe Randy Ulmer used to plug both ends and float his arrows to see if one side consistently came up to the top. He then marked that side and fletched all his arrows exactly the same versus the marked side. For a while Easton used to quote stiffness around the shaft as a spec item, but it was always very low - like within a couple percent. I suppose the best way to test it is to put each arrow in some kind of simple fixture and put a certain weight on the end and then measure flex as you turn them. My guess is that you won't find much difference and then if you index and fletch them all according to the spine index you won't see much difference in your shooting unless you are a world class archer shooting longer distances. Good luck.
@@bill-winke that’s the feeling I’ve gotten from researching a bit. I’m shooting deer from 30 yards and in. I don’t care about shooting long distance targets and such. I can’t imagine it’d make a noticeable difference. It’d probably be more frustrating to do all the work to have them all indexed and then not see a difference. 🤦♂️🤣
When I bareshaft shoot I do it with a SEVR target that I put onto a stand. That way I'm shooting level @ the target. I'm looking more to see the angle @ impact with no vanes on a stiff self healing foam target. The side of SEVR target has no spots, just a grid pattern. Sometimes u shoot a shaft a few times & its close but not like the others. With that one a nock turn of 45 to 90 degrees will make a difference. But it's not something that shows up on every 3rd or 4th arrow. U are just focusing on a perfect release & the grid pattern tells u when the arrow is just a little funky.
The wrap goes on easier if you put it on a mousepad and then just roll the arrow. I'm not a big wrap fan, either, but it gives me just a little bit more arrow visibility to find after a shot.
That makes sense Karl. I guess I have not used them at all over the years, but I wanted to show that option in this video. I think I have actually built wrapped arrows for my quiver once and didn't like them, so I never did it again. Good input.
I've never used any wrapped arrows. For arrow visibility, there's nothing better than a lighted knock. I've had them shut off on impact, especially after hitting bone. The ones I use are almost double the length of a standard knock, something to keep in mind when cutting your arrow length. Happy hunting!
Late to the party but what he said ☝️ a mouse pad is a must for putting wraps on. I've been fletching my own for years and when it comes to wraps just eye up the arrow against the wrap on the mouse pad so you are even with the end and the gap is even along the length of the shaft and just go for it and roll it away from you in one steady motion and the "squish" of the mouse pad will take care of providing the perfect amount of tension/ pressure on the wrap so its perfect every time with no air bubbles. Keep up the good work Bill I've really been enjoying "the setup" series and also watching you pass on the tradition to Jordan.
Cresting/wraps are great for traditional bow hunters. The wrap isn't so much for seeing the arrow in flight, but to see the arrow in the animal if it doesn't pass through the animal. Also, cresting does help in the recovery of the arrow. And a reflective wrap will be very visible at twilight or dark when a flashlight shines on them.
Good input. Thanks Paster Mike. Hope you are doing well. I have not heard from you in a few years.
@@bill-winke good to see you making content again! I'd love to catch up.
i like to use white as a wrap, it's a good indicator to the type of blood you have if you get a pass through.
When are the Bill Winke custom wraps coming out Bill ?? :)
You know that is not a bad idea. We are going to start offering some "Bowhunting Whitetails" shirts and hats. Jordan is a graphic designer my trade and she has been working on some designs. Coming out soon, but those wraps might be a good addition.
Great video Bill. Do you use lighted nock? If so what ones?
Collin, I don't currently. I should for the sake of the video, but that is just one more variable that I have to control to make a good shooting arrow. Most of them are probably very good, but I am a minimalist. The less I can attach to my arrow, the better. I will probably get some before next season. Good luck.
Curious on your thoughts about the indexer on the actual nock and finding the arrow spine? I always line the nock indexer up with the spine of the shaft before fletching so every arrow starts in the jig the same. Also found that alot of times the cock vane is sometimes cut a little different than the other 2 so using all 3 of the same vane is more consistent. The nock indexer is always pointed out when I load an arrow to avoid confusion. Am I wasting time?
It may be overkill for typical whitetail shots, but if you are a great shot looking for every tiny edge in competition it probably makes sense. I know Randy Ulmer used to tune his arrows based on spine very similar to what you are doing. Well made arrows have very little variation in stiffness around the shaft but not all arrows are well made.
@@bill-winke thanks. Lol I'm the opposite of great shot looking for every advantage. Always enjoy your stuff
Bill- any thoughts on whisker biscuits vs drop away rests when it comes to veins? I recently switch to a drop away as my biscuit constantly ripped the veins off my arrows.
Drop aways are superior in multiple ways. I run a VaporTrail Gen 7 limb driven. Simple and bulletproof. The AAE Prophecy is a nice cable driven one.
I have shot both of them a fair bit. I just didn't like the fact that the biscuit tore my fletching when I used helical offset. They are very idiot-proof though and that is a good thing. Some of the experts I have talked with suggest that the fact the arrow is in contact with the bow longer and that makes the bow less forgiving of movements in your bow hand during the shot. But, that may not be a factor on the short shots we generally take when whitetail hunting. I would never tell someone not to shoot the Whisker Biscuit, they just need to refletch their arrows a bit more often.
Always liked wraps makes reflecting much easier
I have never used them much but I just don't like how hard it is to change fletching if you need to when using a wrap.
Love the content Bill. IMO, arrow noise definitely causes jumpers in a lot of cases. These new bows are so quite, if you’re shooting 60 yards at a feeding animal, do they even hear the bow? Also deer are used to small sudden short sounds in nature (acorns, walnuts, branches, squirrels dropping stuff). I feel like it’s a lot of times the hissing sound of the arrow that they here is heading right at them. If you watch long range shots, I think the animals always start dropping when the arrow is 25-30 yards away from them, regardless how far the shot. Sound travels over 3 times faster than our arrows, if they make any noise, the deer will hear it before it hits them. Broadheads I think are a bigger issue with this than fletching. This is my opinion.
Javin, I have definitely had at least my share of string jumpers. I am not sure. I still think it is the release in most cases. My biggest problems come at 30 to 40 yards. Seems that 30 is the worst. I believe they are reacting to the sound of the bow firing. Will keep studying it, but I do like the way you think. String jumping is a much bigger issue than most people think. They say, "OH, I hit him high!" They don't see what the camera sees, the buck dropping six to ten inches.
@@bill-winke maybe we’re looking at 25-40 they’re string jumpers, 40+ they are arrow jumpers? Haha not a scientist.
Hey Bill! I was thinking about your video “Trapped in a tree” that you did about a month or 2 ago. Did you ever try the monster truck idea to scare deer off and get out of the blind/tree without them knowing it’s you? If so would love to hear about it!
Brayden, I have not. I chose to use a small drone that I can easily carry in my pack. Fly it out and land it in the plot a couple hours before the end of legal time and then lift it off to spook the deer when it is time to leave. We have not not to test it yet since the spots we have hunted haven't had deer in them at the end of legal time. Good luck.
Appreciate all your work. How do we support what you are doing?
Eventually we will have some cool hats and shirts for sale, but really when you make a buying decision, if you consider our sponsors that would be great. Thanks for asking. Have a great weekend.
Can’t wait to pick up a hat!
To me I always cut my arrows to link first then I'll start with one Arrow fletch Arrow bear see how they tune out of the bowl and what length to continue to cut them down little bit by little bit until they tune perfect or just cut them to your drawing you know your point wait you know everything from there I go on with the process of squaring the ends of my arrows I spend my arrows to make sure there's no wobble put the insert in then spin it again to make sure that the insert is flush and squared Mark everything glue everything and then start the Fletching process after I have shot them through paper making sure that the spine of the arrow each one of them are lined up to each other so by shooting them through paper you make sure that each one has the same Bullet Hole Mark the knock Mark the arrow then Fletch accordingly with the mark facing up
Boy, that is a very thorough approach. I cut them, fletch them and then turn the nock from arrow to arrow until they are flying well. I use a drop away rest so there is not as much problem with this approach as it would be if shooting another rest style. Sometimes I have to mark the new cock vane with a sharpie. Each arrow may have a very slightly different nock rotation depending on how it flies best. I find that the pressure point of my grip and my string arm at full draw (where the elbow is pointing) and even the amount my bow hand is relaxed have a huge effect on arrow flight. Those are the things I mess with once I get everything set up if the arrows are still not flying right. Good luck.
And Lancaster had some done some high-speed video if you watch it the arrow that comes off of your bow with the right fun string so clockwise will 98% of the time clock to the left if you fled to the right that Arrow will come off of the boat to the left down range it has to stop in mid flight and correct to the wedgie and start turning into the right I don't know how much difference it makes but I don't want to interrupt the flight of my arrow
The Easton slow mo videos I watched many years ago showed the arrows coming out straight when fired with a release and skidding through the air at leadt 3 or 4 feet before they even started to turn. Possibly the stiffer vanes we are using today change that dynamic somewhat.
I still don't think much out there shoots like feathers they were always great at stearing big fixed heads like the Simmons land sharks that need some steering lol
I shot feathers for a long time but gave them up when I couldn't keep them dry in rainy weather. I actually hunted with Jerry Simmons one time out in Colorado for mule deer one time. I really liked him. Great guy.
@@bill-winke that's cool and that's the same reason Most of us quit feathers powders and sprays only worked part of the time
wraps on an arrows shine in the woods.
So does dew on a leaf
@@usernamehere6061 dew on a leaf is not bright white
@@lisaannaallen6283 Shine = light... deer cannot see light that is why headlamps do not scare them. There are also a lot of things in nature that are white. I suppose they blow at every milkweed pod they see?
@@usernamehere6061 you need to read the research papers from L S U on what deer can &can not see.
@@lisaannaallen6283 Why? I already know they see the blue end of the spectrum but cannot pick up reds. That has nothing to do with what we were talking about though.
Yawnnnn! First!