I wrapped electrical tape around my intake before putting the clamps on, and that worked pretty good. I know that sounds a little rednecky, but no more intake leaks.
Yes, you should use band for band manifolds (and heads), and o-ring for oring manifold and heads. Don’t mix up the systems. Propane and starter fluid work for checking leaks, however I found the best way is to use the manifold to make a plate template. Drill mounting holes and install air valve / tire valve. With carb off you can soap the intake and pressure it with a small hand pump or compressor regulated to low pressure (15-20psi). Adjust tightness till no bubbles are being formed from leaking air. You may have a leak down through valve seals to head but you’ll also see leaking of intake. Here is where the compressor is a easier to keep pressurized. Not sure how this works on a bike not running valve seals. Lastly, also confirm your cylinders are timed right. When installing the cylinders and heads they should have been set with the manifold to ensure correct alignment. Keep those old bikes running well!
The best way I found to check for intake leaks was to remove the carb, which if you are considering re-jetting to solve a problem, you will likely need to do anyway and there is no need to go to re-jetting if you have intake leaks. After removing the carb, I made a piece out of PVC plumbing pipe and a brass air fitting, so I could introduce a few pounds of air into the manifold with a compressor. Electrical tape worked well to make up for a difference in diameter. An automotive hose clamp held it on well. With a few pounds of air going in and spraying soapy water on the manifold, the leaks, if any, will become readily apparent. I'm going to try to take some narrow strips of Grace Ice and Water shield (a roofing product) to use as a tape to go around the flanges and joints in the manifold. I believe it's worth a try. Along the edge of the roll was a thin, narrow strip of the rubber like adhesive and it really sticks. I believe I should give that a try and work it in with the back side of some curved picks I have, where the flanges meet the heads. Today I tried using that red "Hi-Tack" and it worked for about an afternoon, but then it began popping again. I had been riding with no pops not even on deceleration. Jetting was perfect with a #48 and 185, and the '88 Sportster needle a lot of people like. It was perfect, and I got the best gas mileage ever, 50 +. What a happy motor it was. So it's fixing air leaks for me, tomorrow. I will find a way, without removing and depending on their rubber seals only. I know there is something better for me, so I'm looking for it. I put a vacuum hose into the manifold after I applied the Hi-Tack, to pull it into whatever spaces and cracks there may have been, but I don't think the Hi-Tack was actually durable enough, though it can set up quite thick in time, so it's on to something else.
Let's all give a shout to the band Pentagram!! Best band to listen to when building anything!! Spencer ,you got great taste in Heavy Music!! And knows how to wrench 🔧
The way i do it for chronic ones is i loosen the head bolts and clamp the intake on super tight without seals. This clocks the heads to the perfect spots so they line up with the intake. Then put everything back on. Works like a charm and ,usually, no messing with clamps or seals to get them right.
@@codyschoppercorner5727 that would be awesome! People always have that issue and everyones response is “read the manual”…but that step isnt in the manual. So it would be awesome to cover that! Really liking the content.
Does vacuum leak cause the engine to die off when you throttle it? Because Mine kept dying unless I open the choke, the mechanic told me it was because my carburetor boots crack, is it true?
You definitely want to replace a cracked intake boot. What’s happening is, the carb is set to run on a certain amount of fuel/air. With a cracked intake boot that set amount of air no longer matches the fuel.
The clamp system from AMF is far superior to the "floating flange" system on my 93 Sportster. Harley-Davidson demonstrated how to fix something until it is broke. I've tried to stop this intake leak for over 10 years now, IT'S A F***ED UP DESIGN!! 3 new manifolds, countless gaskets, new engine, NO AVAIL! Makes me ashamed to own one. and I'm on piece of junk Harley #3
Brother... videos on simple stuff or just pertaining to antiques is nice but......if you're the chopper guy, show me start to finish, how to build a chopper.
Send me a bike and a pile of cash and I’ll have your video up in no time. All jokes aside I just started this channel and I eventually will do it. That’s a big task to say the least.
Chopper riders make up almost all the new bad words as time goes by as well.
Thanks for the videos guys
I wrapped electrical tape around my intake before putting the clamps on, and that worked pretty good. I know that sounds a little rednecky, but no more intake leaks.
Interesting, but hey if it works it works.
Yes, you should use band for band manifolds (and heads), and o-ring for oring manifold and heads. Don’t mix up the systems. Propane and starter fluid work for checking leaks, however I found the best way is to use the manifold to make a plate template. Drill mounting holes and install air valve / tire valve. With carb off you can soap the intake and pressure it with a small hand pump or compressor regulated to low pressure (15-20psi). Adjust tightness till no bubbles are being formed from leaking air. You may have a leak down through valve seals to head but you’ll also see leaking of intake. Here is where the compressor is a easier to keep pressurized. Not sure how this works on a bike not running valve seals.
Lastly, also confirm your cylinders are timed right. When installing the cylinders and heads they should have been set with the manifold to ensure correct alignment.
Keep those old bikes running well!
The best way I found to check for intake leaks was to remove the carb, which if you are considering re-jetting to solve a problem, you will likely need to do anyway and there is no need to go to re-jetting if you have intake leaks. After removing the carb, I made a piece out of PVC plumbing pipe and a brass air fitting, so I could introduce a few pounds of air into the manifold with a compressor. Electrical tape worked well to make up for a difference in diameter. An automotive hose clamp held it on well.
With a few pounds of air going in and spraying soapy water on the manifold, the leaks, if any, will become readily apparent.
I'm going to try to take some narrow strips of Grace Ice and Water shield (a roofing product) to use as a tape to go around the flanges and joints in the manifold. I believe it's worth a try. Along the edge of the roll was a thin, narrow strip of the rubber like adhesive and it really sticks. I believe I should give that a try and work it in with the back side of some curved picks I have, where the flanges meet the heads.
Today I tried using that red "Hi-Tack" and it worked for about an afternoon, but then it began popping again. I had been riding with no pops not even on deceleration. Jetting was perfect with a #48 and 185, and the '88 Sportster needle a lot of people like. It was perfect, and I got the best gas mileage ever, 50 +. What a happy motor it was. So it's fixing air leaks for me, tomorrow. I will find a way, without removing and depending on their rubber seals only. I know there is something better for me, so I'm looking for it.
I put a vacuum hose into the manifold after I applied the Hi-Tack, to pull it into whatever spaces and cracks there may have been, but I don't think the Hi-Tack was actually durable enough, though it can set up quite thick in time, so it's on to something else.
That sure sounds worth a try, these chump "certified" Harley mechanics don't know a mousetrap from a magneto....
FNA makes a good seal kit I’ve used with success in the past
Thanks for the content
Ridinghoods forever
Hell yeah! Thanks !
Let's all give a shout to the band Pentagram!! Best band to listen to when building anything!! Spencer ,you got great taste in Heavy Music!! And knows how to wrench 🔧
The way i do it for chronic ones is i loosen the head bolts and clamp the intake on super tight without seals.
This clocks the heads to the perfect spots so they line up with the intake.
Then put everything back on. Works like a charm and ,usually, no messing with clamps or seals to get them right.
Yeah that step is crucial for head/intake alignment
I’ll most likely redo this video completely and go more in depth
@@codyschoppercorner5727 that would be awesome! People always have that issue and everyones response is “read the manual”…but that step isnt in the manual. So it would be awesome to cover that! Really liking the content.
@@justinbooth489 friend hoo helpd me reassemble my fresh topend clued me in2 dis 1. its really a great piece of info to kno.
@@codyschoppercorner5727 ill watch if u do.
Great video. Thanks.
Cool man, im gonna try going back to the o-ring as well.
I'm having the same problem 👍 Good job
Good luck man. Hopefully you can figure it out
Yo, great video.
videos rule. keep making more!
if you have good ideas for getting sportster neck bearing adjustments done right, i'd watch the fuck out of it.
Contact me on Instagram if you have one. @ogcoda
Very well done thank .
Does vacuum leak cause the engine to die off when you throttle it? Because Mine kept dying unless I open the choke, the mechanic told me it was because my carburetor boots crack, is it true?
You definitely want to replace a cracked intake boot. What’s happening is, the carb is set to run on a certain amount of fuel/air. With a cracked intake boot that set amount of air no longer matches the fuel.
@@codyschoppercorner5727 Ok thanks.
Thanks for the good info :)
No problem. Lots more to come
@@codyschoppercorner5727 kool :)
Pentagram t-shirt! 👍
Bobby forever!
Cody I've owned a shit lode of those Chevy trucks right on 😊
With those bigger gaskets/seals ..isn't there a specific way you need to clock it to the clamp..so you don't squish out the seal..??
There might be, I’ve tried it every way without luck on this bike haha
The clamp system from AMF is far superior to the "floating flange" system on my 93 Sportster. Harley-Davidson demonstrated how to fix something until it is broke. I've tried to stop this intake leak for over 10 years now, IT'S A F***ED UP DESIGN!! 3 new manifolds, countless gaskets, new engine, NO AVAIL! Makes me ashamed to own one. and I'm on piece of junk Harley #3
Ive had good success with FNA
Good to hear. I’ve tried but couldn’t get them to seal.
Go ..o..ring and then rap it in electrical tape ... and learn O.G. Slick DOZEN
Brother... videos on simple stuff or just pertaining to antiques is nice but......if you're the chopper guy, show me start to finish, how to build a chopper.
Send me a bike and a pile of cash and I’ll have your video up in no time. All jokes aside I just started this channel and I eventually will do it. That’s a big task to say the least.