Ok iv never seen it but can I install this kit with a newer lid screen that is a difrent pin out than the ribbon you remove (I believe they have 2 ribbons) I bought 2 or 3 not knowing I can't use the kit with it using normal install instructions
I run some kynar wire around to the bottom of the board, the same side as the LCD and run them over to the four pin contrast potentiometer. Then I simply solder each lead to the middle two pins of the potentiometer, pins 2 and 3.
Para usar esse mod é necessário que o gamegear tenha o transformador na placa ? Pergunto, pois, tenhum em que esse pequeno trafo queimou, então eu retirei ele da placa
I've been following your guide and was very helpful. Problem I have is the bottom pad for C40 has come off (pad closest to C16) where can I wire to? At the moment I get a picture but has lots of distorted horizontal lines
It depends on the GG revision you're modding. You should be able to solder to the trace that connected to the pad if you scrape away the solder mask carefully. Failing that, you could possibly solder to a via along the same trace. If you don't have a microscope try using your phone camera as a DIY microscope of sorts to zoom in and follow the trace.
@@Trippy86117 imgur.com/a/IQfA3Hc should help. You're lucky I was working on one of these models yesterday and have one on hand :). You should be able to scratch off the solder mask in the area in red and reposition the cap to where you need it. Be careful and be quick with the soldering iron. Use flux as well. If you linger on an area for too long you'll cause the adhesive that holds the copper on to fail and lift pads/traces.
Really helpful video, I tried to replace my Game Gear screen aswell but sadly it doesn't work, I have no picture but there is sound and also everytime I connect the CLK to the board it sounds like it is only running at half speed, do you have any idea on how to fix it?
It sounds like you have an unstable clock. The 3.1 versions of those LCD boards have an empty spot for an oscillator. You could try installing an external oscillator onto the LCD board so that it doesn't need to use the Game Gear one. I haven't run into the problem myself but that's what it sounds like. As for no picture, double check your wiring of the data lines to where the LCD used to be soldered.
@@NewRetroRepair Thank you for your help, I just fixed the picture issue, I forgot to bridge P1 and P2 which only exists on the newer boards, but well it's still running really slow. I ordered a oscillator and I hope that will fix it.
@@NewRetroRepair After almost waiting over a month, I finally received the oscillator. I did like the the seller told me I removed the CLK cable and put it in, didn't work, after being frustated I just thought well what happens if I add the CLK cable again and well it worked and runs perfectly 😅
Hello ! Thank you for you video ! It helped me a lot ! How did you manage to keep the LCD screen in place ? Mine is moving when I'm playing, not a lot but it is no really aligned. I did put a little bit of electrical tape but it's still moving a bit.
What I did was to place Tesa double sided adhesive tape around the edges of the hole on the front shell for the LCD. If you push the LCD up as high as it'll go on the shell and push the right hand side of it (when looking at the front shell from the inside) against the screw post it should be perfectly aligned.
@@NewRetroRepair I had a look around, and although I know the board has funnyplaying written on it, I don't think it's actually made by them. I've seen the same boards with other names, and with no names at all as well. I think they're doing the typical clone thing where they use a popular brands name to sell products. It isn't sold on funnyplayings website or their AliExpress page.
@@_MJ07_ Yeah it looks like you're right. I think it's just a straight McWill clone with funnyplaying branding slapped on for good measure. Strange they feel the need to do that when they could just as easily use their own branding on it.
I got a clone lcd for mine today and the instructions say its supposed to have two 10pF capacitors and one 200 Ohm resistor but mine didn't come with it.. Was really hoping to do this mod tonight... Did yours come with it?
@@NewRetroRepair thanks for the reply. It looks like v2.1 and v3 clone boards are the same with different instructions i have 2 gg v1 twin asic 837-7719-01 and 837-9024. I have the 2.1 clone lcd and it looks identical to the v3 so im going to use the instructions that i found for v3 to install the 2.1 on the v1 twin asic. I ordered the missing parts and will use it to install for the other gg... I think both are compatible but one needs extra parts to solder on the motherboard.. I hope im right lol
I didn't need the resistors. They gave me the wrong instructions and I ended up putting it on a asic 1 board I believe. when installing the board look for 2 solder pads by the flex connection, it looks like a trash can. I took the board off like 2 times and it wasn't powering up the backlight because the 2 pads need to be solder jumped or wire to the dimmer I believe... I just jumped it.
This looks great. I also saw these kits on AliExpress and have always wanted to get this mod done. Is this mod hard to do? I'm ok at soldering and have replaced a few capacitors myself. Thanks!
If you can replace the capacitors this mod should be doable for you. YMMV. Honestly though, it's all down to your own confidence. As long as you're slow and careful you should be fine!
I'd suggest going for a new LCD over just a backlight. The Original LCD screens will only degrade as time goes on. You may as well get one of the inexpensive LCD kits from AliExpress or similar, they come with an integrated backlight as it is anyway.
SAD that lcd worth a lot more than peoplr may think even without the flex cable, i just received a batch of those flex cables for game gear original lcd
Exelent video! Nice & simple str8 forward eazy to see & follow! Im going to use heat shrink wrap portection for all the white wires
Just bought one and can't wait for it to arrive :)
Hope you enjoy it, they're brilliant consoles.
excellent well made video... I'm about to order my screen and do the same 🤞🏻
Hi, nice vid. Do you have the link on where to buy this lcd? Thanks!
Do you have that info sheet available? I haven't been able to find a reference sheet since I got the screen kit
Ok iv never seen it but can I install this kit with a newer lid screen that is a difrent pin out than the ribbon you remove (I believe they have 2 ribbons)
I bought 2 or 3 not knowing I can't use the kit with it using normal install instructions
Hello nice video! I see your soldering P1 and P2 on the GG mod but where do you solder the other ends to the main board?
I run some kynar wire around to the bottom of the board, the same side as the LCD and run them over to the four pin contrast potentiometer. Then I simply solder each lead to the middle two pins of the potentiometer, pins 2 and 3.
Excellent video and subed!. Any reason for not soldering up the brightness adjustment?
I did, I just didn't capture it is all. I think I mentioned it in the video actually :)
Para usar esse mod é necessário que o gamegear tenha o transformador na placa ? Pergunto, pois, tenhum em que esse pequeno trafo queimou, então eu retirei ele da placa
The transformer isn't needed when doing this mod. Removing it has no real effect as the Funnyplaying LCD does not use the high voltage it provides.
I've been following your guide and was very helpful.
Problem I have is the bottom pad for C40 has come off (pad closest to C16) where can I wire to?
At the moment I get a picture but has lots of distorted horizontal lines
It depends on the GG revision you're modding. You should be able to solder to the trace that connected to the pad if you scrape away the solder mask carefully.
Failing that, you could possibly solder to a via along the same trace. If you don't have a microscope try using your phone camera as a DIY microscope of sorts to zoom in and follow the trace.
@@NewRetroRepair it's a 837-9130 1 ASIC. It's such a small area that I can't even see a trace, even shining light through the board I cant see a trace
@@Trippy86117 Does the motherboard you're trying to modify have "VA4" written on it on the left most edge?
@@Trippy86117 imgur.com/a/IQfA3Hc should help. You're lucky I was working on one of these models yesterday and have one on hand :). You should be able to scratch off the solder mask in the area in red and reposition the cap to where you need it. Be careful and be quick with the soldering iron. Use flux as well. If you linger on an area for too long you'll cause the adhesive that holds the copper on to fail and lift pads/traces.
@@NewRetroRepair top man it connects to the bottom of R25, I've wired in a link but still image is distorted, any ideas?
Really helpful video, I tried to replace my Game Gear screen aswell but sadly it doesn't work, I have no picture but there is sound and also everytime I connect the CLK to the board it sounds like it is only running at half speed, do you have any idea on how to fix it?
It sounds like you have an unstable clock. The 3.1 versions of those LCD boards have an empty spot for an oscillator. You could try installing an external oscillator onto the LCD board so that it doesn't need to use the Game Gear one. I haven't run into the problem myself but that's what it sounds like.
As for no picture, double check your wiring of the data lines to where the LCD used to be soldered.
@@NewRetroRepair Thank you for your help, I just fixed the picture issue, I forgot to bridge P1 and P2 which only exists on the newer boards, but well it's still running really slow.
I ordered a oscillator and I hope that will fix it.
@@Parakoopa92 good luck! I'm curious to know if it sorts the problem when you get it installed 😁
@@NewRetroRepair After almost waiting over a month, I finally received the oscillator. I did like the the seller told me I removed the CLK cable and put it in, didn't work, after being frustated I just thought well what happens if I add the CLK cable again and well it worked and runs perfectly 😅
@@Parakoopa92
Hello ! Thank you for you video ! It helped me a lot ! How did you manage to keep the LCD screen in place ? Mine is moving when I'm playing, not a lot but it is no really aligned. I did put a little bit of electrical tape but it's still moving a bit.
What I did was to place Tesa double sided adhesive tape around the edges of the hole on the front shell for the LCD. If you push the LCD up as high as it'll go on the shell and push the right hand side of it (when looking at the front shell from the inside) against the screw post it should be perfectly aligned.
Funnyplaying? They don't have this listed on their website. Is this just the one that's found on on AliExpress ?
Yes indeed.
@@NewRetroRepair I had a look around, and although I know the board has funnyplaying written on it, I don't think it's actually made by them. I've seen the same boards with other names, and with no names at all as well. I think they're doing the typical clone thing where they use a popular brands name to sell products. It isn't sold on funnyplayings website or their AliExpress page.
@@_MJ07_ Yeah it looks like you're right. I think it's just a straight McWill clone with funnyplaying branding slapped on for good measure.
Strange they feel the need to do that when they could just as easily use their own branding on it.
Are you using a camera from 2003?
Close enough, I used my phone back in these earlier videos 😂
I got a clone lcd for mine today and the instructions say its supposed to have two 10pF capacitors and one 200 Ohm resistor but mine didn't come with it.. Was really hoping to do this mod tonight... Did yours come with it?
Mine did. Check the instructions for your particular GG and LCD revision. Maybe the V3 boarrds don't need those parts.
@@NewRetroRepair thanks for the reply. It looks like v2.1 and v3 clone boards are the same with different instructions i have 2 gg v1 twin asic 837-7719-01 and 837-9024. I have the 2.1 clone lcd and it looks identical to the v3 so im going to use the instructions that i found for v3 to install the 2.1 on the v1 twin asic. I ordered the missing parts and will use it to install for the other gg... I think both are compatible but one needs extra parts to solder on the motherboard.. I hope im right lol
@@cwwCADAVER the 200 Ohm resistor you used was it a 1/4 Watt ? Im trying to find out the Watt
I didn't need the resistors. They gave me the wrong instructions and I ended up putting it on a asic 1 board I believe. when installing the board look for 2 solder pads by the flex connection, it looks like a trash can. I took the board off like 2 times and it wasn't powering up the backlight because the 2 pads need to be solder jumped or wire to the dimmer I believe... I just jumped it.
Edit.... Sorry the 2 pads are by the symble of a trash can.
Great job. Intricate work, but you wouldn't happen to know where to get the best price on these parts?
Sure, AliExpress.
This looks great. I also saw these kits on AliExpress and have always wanted to get this mod done. Is this mod hard to do? I'm ok at soldering and have replaced a few capacitors myself. Thanks!
If you can replace the capacitors this mod should be doable for you. YMMV. Honestly though, it's all down to your own confidence.
As long as you're slow and careful you should be fine!
@@NewRetroRepair ok this gives me some hope. It would be more affordable than hiring someone to install it for me haha. Thanks for your time!
Does the brightness control work?
Yep!
I follow your video and the screen is black when done!
Time to bust out the multimeter and start checking connections. Also, did you install new capacitors first? Anyway good luck with fixing your GG :)
I am trying to wait for my caps to get my game gear working again I'm probably going to get a backlight to improve my game gear
I'd suggest going for a new LCD over just a backlight. The Original LCD screens will only degrade as time goes on. You may as well get one of the inexpensive LCD kits from AliExpress or similar, they come with an integrated backlight as it is anyway.
@@NewRetroRepair I got the kit it's in Texas and most likely will have the system modded and fully refurbished around mid march
@@NewRetroRepair what type of instructions were you using was wondering so I can be safe for installing mine into my game gear
SAD that lcd worth a lot more than peoplr may think even without the flex cable, i just received a batch of those flex cables for game gear original lcd
It's worth less than a faulty Game Gear, which ranges anywhere from £10 to £30, so not very much at all.
hooo man ....thechnical videos with background techno music is a NO GO for most people :(
It's not techno music. It's mostly royalty free remixes of Sonic the Hedgehog 16 bit music tracks. Any Sega fan should recognise it :)
WHAT I CANT HEAR YOU OVER THE MUSIC.
Hear him fine.
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