My name is Eric I own a 1979 Allis Chalmers 716 tractor I have been watching your videos and u helped me out drastically with my old girl thank u very much zippo.i have been doing small little things like fabricate a exhaust stack for it with a flapper
Great info for a newbie AC owner! Long story short, a buddy wanted my MF 12 Hydro for his collection. So in good spirit I said find me a comparable machine with easier to find attachments and i'll trade ya.. 8 months later and i now own an (~1966, we are still unsure exact model) AC with a tiller and he has a blade and snow blower to sell me. She's an absolute beauty and very much resembles the model in this maintenance tutorial! A big thank you Zip!
Thanks for the information. I just bought my first antique tractors , a pair of Homelite T-10s. They've been sitting for probably 30yrs but one's running now and I'm waiting for a coil for the other. I didn't know anything about these things. They seem to be a lot like those AC. Very helpful videos.
They are related Traveler. Simplicity provided these tractors to Montgomery Ward on a number of occasions and in fact, Simplicity started out as a reproduction automotive parts company when Montgomery Ward contacted them asking them to build an Urban walk behind garden tractor in the 1930's after WW1. For decades, Wards and Simplicity worked together, but be aware that Wards also used companies like Gilson as well. Great finds! Enjoy them. Zip~
Zippo, you're the best! Thank you for sharing your knowledge with all of us. I just bought my first tractor, a Simplicity landlord, and your videos have been so helpful.
You just bought the King of Garden Tractors Buddy! Enjoy it and I hope my videos will help you keep it maintained and in service for Decades more! Cheers! And Thank You!! Zip~
Bought my first AC yesterday, a 1978 716h, looks great, runs great, I found you on TH-cam and really enjoy your videos. Looks like I have alot to watch to be caught up! Thanks, your info is very helpful.
@GrincheyOne Heya my friend Grinchy! 80w90 is what I use on the old transaxles. The Peerless is filled at the factory with Bentonite Grease. I always drill and tap the top casing and install a plug. Then, I put in about 6 oz. of STP engine treatment. The Bentonite grease is a crappy lubricant and the oil treatment is thick enough to stay in the gear case and keep things well coated.
Bevel Gear Box, 80w90 (I would go with full synthetic) Check with MFG for hydro tranny and SAE30 Non-Detergent for the engine. If your 7013 isn't a hydro, then the same gear oil for it as with the Bevel Gear Box. Cheers 50s!! Great hearing from you!!
@tractormandale The small frame Simplicities are all belt driven from the engine to the tranny. The bevel gear box was a great idea because it gives the operator the mid PTO which also powers the rear mounted mule drives for the tiller, leaf vac, generator, mulcher and so on. I'll tell ya...I've never had the belt be the cause of mechanical failure on these beasts. I'm not sure why they did it the way they did, but it works! Thanks Dale!!
Glad I watched close. I'm missing the spring and washer on the shifter where it enters the trans, AND how to live the steering ball joints 👍👍🇺🇸 Thanks AGAIN
The spring isn't a factory item Garry. It was on the tractor when I got it so I just left it there. The only purpose it serves is placing the shift lever at the 1/3 position. Zip~
Hi Zippo, Like your channel, I asked if the 85 psi on the compression the other day. Thanks for that answer. Got another one. Since you know so much about these tractors. My 7100 with the cylinders out each side and the spark plugs straight up. Cranks and cranks to get her going. But when she starts look out runs great. Any suggestions of what I should look at. I am afraid when I need her to plow the battery will die before she starts in the cold season.
your awesome! your knowlege and love for these machines is much appreciated!! keep it going ! the newer generations just have a throwaway attitude!! schmedrock
James Schmeding Thanks Schmedrock! It's a passion that others have and I'm always happy to offer help so that you can keep your machines in work mode! Cheers!! Zip~
Hello Zippo, congratulations for the informative video, I have a question, how to check the oil level in the differential transmission and whether it is 80w 90 PS oil for an allis chalmers 312 Thank you
Love your video . Would love to find where i can watch every video you have made , especially for Simplicity and Allis Chalmers garden tractors / mowers vintage !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Please make one explaining the different years and models and how to distinguish between them , as I have one of each . You make the best video , THUMBS UP--Ernest E. Johnson
Right below any of my videos is the red Subscribe tab. Click on that, and on the bell icon to be notified of new videos. To view the videos I have on my channel, simply click on my name below any of my videos and it will take you to my channel where you can view all of them. Thanks so much for your positive comment. It's why I post videos! Cheers Ernest! Zip~
There is no hesitation, having owned just about all of the different makers of vintage tractors. I "was" a Wheel Horse guy. Once you own a Simplicity, all the others pale in comparison. Get the 2210!!!!
I love these old tractors. I have a cub 149 and a newer cub 1450 both with horizontal Kohler's with the coil bolted to the engine. I just got an old Simplicity 3012 with a briggs and stratton that Im trying to restore. I can not get this thing to fire. I have a wiring diagram but i still cant get it to spark. i has 2 wires coming out from under the engine cover, which i assume one goes to the points and the other grounds to the points cover along with the ignition wire. can you show a video of the wiring from the ignition switch to the points? thanks
You can flush out the oil pan with Mineral Spirits really good to make sure you have everything as clean as possible, then let the engine sit for a couple days with the oil fill and drain plug out so the remainder of the mineral spirits will evaporate. Then refill, run the engine for an hour or so, then dump the oil again and see of you have any more sparkles (metal shavings) Keep me posted buddy!
Bottom right side of the gear case just above the rear hitch bar you'll see a square head plug. That's where you check the level and fill. It should be filled to the bottom edge of the plug hole. Cheers!
@mrwiggles2 Heya Wiggles! Yep...a lot of the general maintenance like steering gear lube, tie rod ends, king pin grease and so on are similar on all of the older makes. Glad you liked it!!
Thank you for your quick and relevant response, I have another information to ask you, I bought an Allis Chalmet 312 listed on the side, and I cannot find this model on the net, it is equipped with a VERTICAL shaft motor, do you have any idea which model or which year? it is all orange in color.
These tractors are Horizontal engine powered. Not vertical. Email me at the email address shown in the Description below the video with a photo of your machine please. Zip~
@edzgarage Heya Edz! Thanks my friend....I'm finding that a lot of non Simplicity owners are also finding a lot of the info useful as well. I'm just glad I can contribute!!
@GrincheyOne continually blow compressed air while drilling and I wouldn't worry too much about the filings getting in the case. They'll stay buried in the oil/grease concoction. And even if they do manage to float around, all the gears and shafts are steel and the case is aluminum. They'll just pulverize the filings.
Remind me, How do I keep the filings out of the case when I drill? Thanks for the answer. The STP may be an answer to the stiff shifting, and sometimes "stuck in gear", I've experienced. Thanks Buddy!
Very helpful. I just bought a montgomery wards squire 10 today. I'm new to these tractors. It's going to need the bgb rebuilt. The gears seem good. Is it complicated?
It's a very stable platform that's stood the test of time. Once cracks at the BGB were noticed, Simplicity Manufacturing re-engineered the mounting plate and frame and there hasn't been a failure since. Now...as to why? Why not? It works. Zip~
Hey Zippo, great vid! thank you. ... I'm looking at a 1816 model, might buy it. But I have NO IDEA of it's value. Can you possibly shed any light on its value? It's a 1989, very little rust, solid deck, only about 600 hours, seems to start/run ok. it has a snow blade and a rototiller attachment too. overall pretty decent looking machine.
Hi Zippo, My name is Chamila and I am from Australia. Firstly I have to say thank you so much making all these videos for everyone out in the world to learn about this tractors. I recently acquired a Simplicity 3212V garden tractor that come with 16HP Briggs and Stratton engine but the engine stops when the Choke is off. It runs well when the Choke is on. Can you please help me out to find out the problem? I suspect some sort of issue with Carburetor. If it is a carb problem, how do I find the model number to order the parts for this carburetor? Kind regards
I replied to your other comment a few moments ago. As for where to find the model numbers, they should be on the blower housing of the engine below and to the right of the carburetor. If your engine is a 16hp, then the numbers may be on top of the engine blower housing which requires removing the hood to check. I have a video showing places that Briggs & Stratton placed their ID numbers. A 16hp will start with 320 to 326. Your tractor originally came with a 12hp Briggs, which would have engine model starting with 300. Cheers! Zip~
Glad I found this video, thanks for bringing me up to speed, embarking on an old B-10. I've posted a video I would like you to watch some time. need some things answered. I'll soon join a forum.
Zippo... No spark on my 1967 Allis Chalmers B-110, so I cleaned the fly wheel magnet and changed the magneto and condenser. I had to remove the motor to get at the magneto. I ordered the parts from the internet. Now I'm not sure what to do with the two little black wires coming off of the new armature. There were two little black wires on the old magneto both of which attached to a ground, one on the armature mounting and the other to a sheet metal shroud. Do I need to reassemble the tractor to check out if I get a spark? Right now, as I rotate the flywheel, there is no spark. Do those two little black wires have something to do with an ignition kill switch/ground?
One needs to be grounded to one of the mounting bolts and should have an eyelet on the end, the other is your kill. You can clamp the engine to a work surface and hook it up to a battery and manually spin it over to achieve spark. If you didn't replace the points, but the condenser and coil are new, then I would pay attention to the points and their condition. I have videos on here of installing and adjusting. Keep me posted on your progress! Zip~
Man could I use your help...I have a chance to buy a 712 Allis with the shuttle trans ..looks like it has some new belts on it ARE they worth buying and how hard are they to work on ....
Of all of the transmission types available, the Shuttle is the most particular and difficult to set the initial adjustment on. But, having said that...Once they're in adjustment, they are dependable and easy to maintain. I do have the manuals on shuttle adjustment and so long as you follow them, it should give you years of dependable service. If you're not intimidated by a few pulleys and belts and the price is right, then they're very good machines. Zip~
@@ZippoVarga Hey Thanks for the info ...I have a better choice The man has a 716H Allis with the hydro trans ..I am not sure but I think he has owned these tractors for years and had a lawn service he does work on them and who knows what else he has in his shop
Heya 50, I'm not sure what you mean by something turning white on top. The sparkles are not a good sign. Sounds like you've got some internal issues that need looking at.
Wow! Great video! I’ve been hunting on TH-cam for days for a proper description of the LR hub set screws! Manual is typically vague and presumptive! I’ve owned a faithful old ‘67 B-110 and I have faithfully maintained those set screws since I replaced the hub in ‘93! Hub is a tad loose so I just tried snugging up both screws and the axle biter is stuck fast! No in and no out! Keyway clear, set screw clean and sharp, but no-go on the other! Hub loose but won’t come off! HELP! Anybody!!!
Hi Zippo, I am Chamila from AUS. I got the carburetor fixed. Now engine does not stalls when the choke is off. I was wondering whether you can help me to get some information on how to do a transmission oil change ( I have done a engine oil change). I also found the engine number and it is 300410 .Thank you again for all your videos on these tractors. Kind regards, Chamila
Hello again Chamila. The lower right side of the transaxle there is a pipe plug. With the low speeds these transaxles spin at, a total fluid change isn't needed. Just top off the gear oil at this location. I use full synthetic 75w90 gear oil. It will mix fine with the conventional oil. You will, however, want to change the Bevel Gear Box Oil. To do this, you will need to siphon the old oil out either through the fill elbow located on the back of the BGB or by removing the plastic vent at the top to siphon the oil out. Replace with the same 75w90 synthetic. I hope this is helpful. Zip~
H Ziippo, I could fill transaxle oil without any issue. I poured down 2.5L oil and I guess it needs more. I tried siphoned out the bevel gear box oil through fill bow but was not successful since nothing was coming out. I assumed that there was not any oil at all and tried to fill oil through the fill elbow. But it overflew after pouring small amount of oil through the fill elbow. I am planning to remove the plastic vent at the top of the BGB. I am just wondering how to take the gear hood in order to get the access to the plastic vent. I removed all the side bolts but it was not coming off. Kind regards, Chamila
2.5 liters is way too much to add to the transmission. Its capacity is just 1 1/2 quarts or 1.42 liters. Did you fill using the hole at the top of the transmission? If so, this is incorrect. There is a square head plug on the bottom right side of the case that is your fill hole, and when oil starts to pour back out, it's full. As for the Bevel Gear Box, they don't take much oil at all either at just One Pint or 473 milliliters. The vent on top of the BGB is accessible by lifting the seat pan, but if you choose to fill the BGB through the vent hole, take the plug out of the fill hole and only fill until oil reaches the top of the fill tube. Too much oil in either the BGB or transmission will only result in the excess oil leaking out. The oil naturally climbs the gears and keeps everything well lubricated, and over filling can lead to problems later on like shearing gear keyways due to the increased resistance the oil creates when the gears are submerged in the oil. It's like when you swim...it's much harder to move through water than it is to walk through air. The excess oil will make it much harder for the gears to move. I hope this makes sense. So, drain the excess oil from the transmission by removing the fill plug. Zip~
I found it interesting that you have all these Simplicity videos. I'll check them out more tomorrow or sometime this week. I have a mostly original Landlord 2210 from 1969 that my parents have had since it was new. It's an unbelievable machine. But I've never seen any of them on TH-cam, or any photos of them on Flickr. Are they rare or what? Thanks!
have an old one i found want to find out how to check out how to get it to start video on what to look at would be great have a 1973 simplicity sovereign that wont crank or start can ya give me a run though of what to try?
I could do that! BTW relative to the IPL on the Peerless, what is the function of the finds #31,33, and 34? Sending a couple pics via email. Thanks again. W
how do you lock up the rear end with those weird friction lockers? i have a 1959 or 1962 garden mark squire and i want to use it as a off road mower and i need to lock up the rear end
+Garret Gutierrez It's an involved process requiring disassembling the transmission. A quick way to do it, which I do not suggest, is to reverse two of three gears inside the differential hub on the right side of the tractor as you're sitting on it. If you want to increase traction to both wheels and not risk destroying your transmission then tighten the two set bolts down until both wheels turn with tractor anchored in place. This way, you'll have great traction, but won't risk a catastrophic failure.
i have a 1976 allis chaemers 720, can i use dextron 3 in my transmission? the fluid in there now is clear, takes 6 quarts to fill. can i mix the clear fluid with the atf?
Automatic Dextron II is the replacement to the factory fluid. They will mix and work together fine. I suggest Synthetic blend or full synthetic for better wear and life of the transmission. Cheers!! ZIp~
Thank you for your advice given so far to get my simplicity going. My latest problem is that transmission pulley continues to run even when the clutch/break is fully depressed. So that it grinds when I try to change gears. Can you please help me out?
When you declutch, the idler pulley moves away from the belt. If the belt stops (Guards) are not in the proper setting, the belt will continue to spin, making it difficult to get the tractor into gear. With the belt tight as though you're riding, but with the engine off, inspect the forward pulley guard/belt stop. It should be as close to the belt as possible without actually touching it. Also, if there is a belt guide/stop on the idler pulley, it too should be as close to the belt as possible (by rotating it anti or clockwise) so when you declutch, the belt guide/stop makes contact with the belt, grabbing it and helping to stop it. Not all machines had this belt stop on the idler pulley. The idler pulley is what moves up and down when you depress the brake/clutch pedal between the front and rear pulleys on the transmission. I hope this helps. Cheers! Zip~
Refresh my memory on what your machine is and what transmission type you have. Some models, like the Variable drive, has a wide belt and wide idler pulley and the belt is under the pulley. With earlier gear only transmissions, the belt rides on top of the pulley. Zip~
It is Simplicity 3212V. I am sorry I don't know the type of the transmission it has got. In fact I am not sure whether I have a variable drive or not. It has got a leaver to go slow and fast.
Email me at ZippoVarga@gmail.com and I will email you the correct owners manual for your 3212V which will outline how to properly adjust the variable pulleys as well as how to properly adjust the Idler Pulley and Idler Pulley Belt Stop. Bare in mind...there is a good possibility that you will need to replace the drive belt and they do NOT COME CHEAP! Here in the US, expect to pay 80 dollars or about 104.26 Australian. Not cheap, but the belt should last you another 40+ years. Zip~
its a allis chalmers big ten ,i bought it from the original owner but he couldnt remeber the yr ,he is going to send me paper work when he finds it than ks gene
Good morning, i have a problem with a Simplicity Tractor similar to the one that you are working on. It has been stopped for quite some time, i am now making it works, but after some test the transmision is locked in 1st gear aparently, i intended to change gear, the selector moves, but i can not unlocked the gear, is there a chance that you could suggest any way of fixing it? Thanks
+Facundo José Yatchesen Yes! As a matter of fact, I have a video showing how to fix this common issue with the older machines. Here's the link and I hope it gets your tractor back in service soon! Cheers!! Zip~ th-cam.com/video/eqnPXZEV0ZE/w-d-xo.html
+ZippoVarga thanks man, surfing your videos i found the one you mention, the only difference is that in this case it was stucked in 1st gear, but the way of fixing is pretty much the same. Now IT's ALIVE!!!. There is a bunch of pieces i have to clean and adjust and your videos are very clear, even more here in Argentina where it's hard to find manuals and pieces. Regards.
Dennis Hurley Yeah basically. These older machines aren’t super tight tolerance wise. If your using the tractor in the winter a lot, do 75W-90 or something.
can't get my Allis Chalmers out of first gear but the weird thing is I can't put the shifter in first it will move to 2 3 4 but doesn't change gear I tried your screw driver trick I couldn't get it to work help plz it's snowing where I live gotta get it going asap So I can plow
The rod that's screwed into your shift rod appears to be broken off or it has unscrewed it self and fallen into the gear box. The only fix is to remove the transmission and split it in half to make the repair. Zip~
+Galen Ball Thanks Galen. I don't want my videos to turn into me talking to the masses. I'd rather stick with what I know and that's talking as though you're standing beside me. Glad you like the flicks! Cheers!! Zip~
That fitting is for the axle not for the differential the fitting for the differential is on the outside wheel side if you have wheel weights on you would have to take the wheel weight off the grease that
While you are correct on later model Simplicity made tractors, on the early ones, where I indicated is where you grease the differential and axle. On the later model tractors, the differential hub has the grease fitting. So we're both correct depending on the year of manufacture. Cheers. Zip~
My name is Eric I own a 1979 Allis Chalmers 716 tractor I have been watching your videos and u helped me out drastically with my old girl thank u very much zippo.i have been doing small little things like fabricate a exhaust stack for it with a flapper
Great info for a newbie AC owner! Long story short, a buddy wanted my MF 12 Hydro for his collection. So in good spirit I said find me a comparable machine with easier to find attachments and i'll trade ya.. 8 months later and i now own an (~1966, we are still unsure exact model) AC with a tiller and he has a blade and snow blower to sell me. She's an absolute beauty and very much resembles the model in this maintenance tutorial! A big thank you Zip!
Thanks for the information. I just bought my first antique tractors , a pair of Homelite T-10s. They've been sitting for probably 30yrs but one's running now and I'm waiting for a coil for the other. I didn't know anything about these things. They seem to be a lot like those AC. Very helpful videos.
They are related Traveler. Simplicity provided these tractors to Montgomery Ward on a number of occasions and in fact, Simplicity started out as a reproduction automotive parts company when Montgomery Ward contacted them asking them to build an Urban walk behind garden tractor in the 1930's after WW1. For decades, Wards and Simplicity worked together, but be aware that Wards also used companies like Gilson as well. Great finds! Enjoy them. Zip~
Zippo, you're the best! Thank you for sharing your knowledge with all of us.
I just bought my first tractor, a Simplicity landlord, and your videos have been so helpful.
You just bought the King of Garden Tractors Buddy! Enjoy it and I hope my videos will help you keep it maintained and in service for Decades more! Cheers! And Thank You!! Zip~
Bought my first AC yesterday, a 1978 716h, looks great, runs great, I found you on TH-cam and really enjoy your videos. Looks like I have alot to watch to be caught up! Thanks, your info is very helpful.
Welcome to the madness Jeff! Be careful, they have a tendency to multiply like rabbits. lol Enjoy it in good health! Cheers!! Zip~
@krazy45cat It's what has kept these nearly 50 year old machines alive so far! Thanks Krazy!!
I also have to say I did not much about these engine until I started to learn from you. Thank you.
Very Welcome! Zip~
@GrincheyOne Heya my friend Grinchy! 80w90 is what I use on the old transaxles. The Peerless is filled at the factory with Bentonite Grease. I always drill and tap the top casing and install a plug. Then, I put in about 6 oz. of STP engine treatment. The Bentonite grease is a crappy lubricant and the oil treatment is thick enough to stay in the gear case and keep things well coated.
Wow. Really built to last. Try finding grease zerks on a mid 90s lawn tractor!
The more I see em the more I love these machines. Awesome video Sean
Zippo, these are great tractors. Nice service review. Good tips, I'll use on my Wheel Horses.
Bevel Gear Box, 80w90 (I would go with full synthetic) Check with MFG for hydro tranny and SAE30 Non-Detergent for the engine. If your 7013 isn't a hydro, then the same gear oil for it as with the Bevel Gear Box. Cheers 50s!! Great hearing from you!!
@tractormandale The small frame Simplicities are all belt driven from the engine to the tranny. The bevel gear box was a great idea because it gives the operator the mid PTO which also powers the rear mounted mule drives for the tiller, leaf vac, generator, mulcher and so on. I'll tell ya...I've never had the belt be the cause of mechanical failure on these beasts. I'm not sure why they did it the way they did, but it works! Thanks Dale!!
@GrincheyOne I've used rubber plugs also. The plug, if threaded, just needs put in so the oil wont leak out, so any place is fine.
Glad I watched close. I'm missing the spring and washer on the shifter where it enters the trans, AND how to live the steering ball joints 👍👍🇺🇸 Thanks AGAIN
The spring isn't a factory item Garry. It was on the tractor when I got it so I just left it there. The only purpose it serves is placing the shift lever at the 1/3 position. Zip~
Hi Zippo, Like your channel, I asked if the 85 psi on the compression the other day. Thanks for that answer. Got another one. Since you know so much about these tractors. My 7100 with the cylinders out each side and the spark plugs straight up. Cranks and cranks to get her going. But when she starts look out runs great. Any suggestions of what I should look at. I am afraid when I need her to plow the battery will die before she starts in the cold season.
your awesome! your knowlege and love for these machines is much appreciated!! keep it going ! the newer generations just have a throwaway attitude!!
schmedrock
James Schmeding Thanks Schmedrock! It's a passion that others have and I'm always happy to offer help so that you can keep your machines in work mode! Cheers!! Zip~
Hello Zippo, congratulations for the informative video, I have a question, how to check the oil level in the differential transmission and whether it is 80w 90 PS oil for an allis chalmers 312
Thank you
The answer is literally right under your comment Daniel and 80w 90. I personally use full synthetic. Enjoy the Allis!! Cheers! Zip~
Great show brother you are an inspiration to me and the small engine youtube family 😊
Love your video . Would love to find where i can watch every video you have made , especially for Simplicity and Allis Chalmers garden tractors / mowers vintage !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Please make one explaining the different years and models and how to distinguish between them , as I have one of each . You make the best video , THUMBS UP--Ernest E. Johnson
Right below any of my videos is the red Subscribe tab. Click on that, and on the bell icon to be notified of new videos. To view the videos I have on my channel, simply click on my name below any of my videos and it will take you to my channel where you can view all of them. Thanks so much for your positive comment. It's why I post videos! Cheers Ernest! Zip~
Man you are awesome. Ty for these AC videos
There is no hesitation, having owned just about all of the different makers of vintage tractors. I "was" a Wheel Horse guy. Once you own a Simplicity, all the others pale in comparison. Get the 2210!!!!
I love these old tractors. I have a cub 149 and a newer cub 1450 both with horizontal Kohler's with the coil bolted to the engine. I just got an old Simplicity 3012 with a briggs and stratton that Im trying to restore. I can not get this thing to fire. I have a wiring diagram but i still cant get it to spark. i has 2 wires coming out from under the engine cover, which i assume one goes to the points and the other grounds to the points cover along with the ignition wire. can you show a video of the wiring from the ignition switch to the points? thanks
You can flush out the oil pan with Mineral Spirits really good to make sure you have everything as clean as possible, then let the engine sit for a couple days with the oil fill and drain plug out so the remainder of the mineral spirits will evaporate. Then refill, run the engine for an hour or so, then dump the oil again and see of you have any more sparkles (metal shavings) Keep me posted buddy!
Bottom right side of the gear case just above the rear hitch bar you'll see a square head plug. That's where you check the level and fill. It should be filled to the bottom edge of the plug hole. Cheers!
@mrwiggles2 Heya Wiggles! Yep...a lot of the general maintenance like steering gear lube, tie rod ends, king pin grease and so on are similar on all of the older makes. Glad you liked it!!
Thank you for your quick and relevant response,
I have another information to ask you,
I bought an Allis Chalmet 312 listed on the side, and I cannot find this model on the net, it is equipped with a VERTICAL shaft motor, do you have any idea which model or which year? it is all orange in color.
These tractors are Horizontal engine powered. Not vertical. Email me at the email address shown in the Description below the video with a photo of your machine please. Zip~
@edzgarage Heya Edz! Thanks my friend....I'm finding that a lot of non Simplicity owners are also finding a lot of the info useful as well. I'm just glad I can contribute!!
@GrincheyOne continually blow compressed air while drilling and I wouldn't worry too much about the filings getting in the case. They'll stay buried in the oil/grease concoction. And even if they do manage to float around, all the gears and shafts are steel and the case is aluminum. They'll just pulverize the filings.
Nice machines and good info Zippo!
Remind me, How do I keep the filings out of the case when I drill? Thanks for the answer. The STP may be an answer to the stiff shifting, and sometimes "stuck in gear", I've experienced. Thanks Buddy!
@CSAKvids Thanks Charles! Yep....they're beasts!
Very helpful. I just bought a montgomery wards squire 10 today. I'm new to these tractors. It's going to need the bgb rebuilt. The gears seem good. Is it complicated?
Thanks for the information good video
Why was the Allis Chalmers Simplicity frame not a solid full rail build like the JD or the CubCadet, why did they go with the bolt together frame ?
It's a very stable platform that's stood the test of time. Once cracks at the BGB were noticed, Simplicity Manufacturing re-engineered the mounting plate and frame and there hasn't been a failure since. Now...as to why? Why not? It works. Zip~
@@ZippoVarga Can you please tell me what is the BGB and where the BGB is on my AC416 ?
Hey Zippo, great vid! thank you. ... I'm looking at a 1816 model, might buy it. But I have NO IDEA of it's value. Can you possibly shed any light on its value? It's a 1989, very little rust, solid deck, only about 600 hours, seems to start/run ok. it has a snow blade and a rototiller attachment too. overall pretty decent looking machine.
Hi Zippo,
My name is Chamila and I am from Australia. Firstly I have to say thank you so much making all these videos for everyone out in the world to learn about this tractors. I recently acquired a Simplicity 3212V garden tractor that come with 16HP Briggs and Stratton engine but the engine stops when the Choke is off. It runs well when the Choke is on. Can you please help me out to find out the problem? I suspect some sort of issue with Carburetor. If it is a carb problem, how do I find the model number to order the parts for this carburetor?
Kind regards
I replied to your other comment a few moments ago. As for where to find the model numbers, they should be on the blower housing of the engine below and to the right of the carburetor. If your engine is a 16hp, then the numbers may be on top of the engine blower housing which requires removing the hood to check. I have a video showing places that Briggs & Stratton placed their ID numbers. A 16hp will start with 320 to 326. Your tractor originally came with a 12hp Briggs, which would have engine model starting with 300. Cheers! Zip~
Glad I found this video, thanks for bringing me up to speed, embarking on an old B-10. I've posted a video I would like you to watch some time. need some things answered. I'll soon join a forum.
Zippo... No spark on my 1967 Allis Chalmers B-110, so I cleaned the fly wheel magnet and changed the magneto and condenser. I had to remove the motor to get at the magneto. I ordered the parts from the internet. Now I'm not sure what to do with the two little black wires coming off of the new armature. There were two little black wires on the old magneto both of which attached to a ground, one on the armature mounting and the other to a sheet metal shroud. Do I need to reassemble the tractor to check out if I get a spark? Right now, as I rotate the flywheel, there is no spark. Do those two little black wires have something to do with an ignition kill switch/ground?
One needs to be grounded to one of the mounting bolts and should have an eyelet on the end, the other is your kill. You can clamp the engine to a work surface and hook it up to a battery and manually spin it over to achieve spark. If you didn't replace the points, but the condenser and coil are new, then I would pay attention to the points and their condition. I have videos on here of installing and adjusting. Keep me posted on your progress! Zip~
Man could I use your help...I have a chance to buy a 712 Allis with the shuttle trans ..looks like it has some new belts on it ARE they worth buying and how hard are they to work on ....
Of all of the transmission types available, the Shuttle is the most particular and difficult to set the initial adjustment on. But, having said that...Once they're in adjustment, they are dependable and easy to maintain. I do have the manuals on shuttle adjustment and so long as you follow them, it should give you years of dependable service. If you're not intimidated by a few pulleys and belts and the price is right, then they're very good machines. Zip~
@@ZippoVarga Hey Thanks for the info ...I have a better choice The man has a 716H Allis with the hydro trans ..I am not sure but I think he has owned these tractors for years and had a lawn service he does work on them and who knows what else he has in his shop
Thanks, any particularly good spot in the top casing? Need a tad of thickness to support threading in aluminum, Yes?
Heya 50, I'm not sure what you mean by something turning white on top. The sparkles are not a good sign. Sounds like you've got some internal issues that need looking at.
Wow! Great video! I’ve been hunting on TH-cam for days for a proper description of the LR hub set screws! Manual is typically vague and presumptive! I’ve owned a faithful old ‘67 B-110 and I have faithfully maintained those set screws since I replaced the hub in ‘93! Hub is a tad loose so I just tried snugging up both screws and the axle biter is stuck fast! No in and no out! Keyway clear, set screw clean and sharp, but no-go on the other! Hub loose but won’t come off! HELP! Anybody!!!
Hi Zippo,
I am Chamila from AUS. I got the carburetor fixed. Now engine does not stalls when the choke is off. I was wondering whether you can help me to get some information on how to do a transmission oil change ( I have done a engine oil change). I also found the engine number and it is 300410 .Thank you again for all your videos on these tractors.
Kind regards,
Chamila
Hello again Chamila. The lower right side of the transaxle there is a pipe plug. With the low speeds these transaxles spin at, a total fluid change isn't needed. Just top off the gear oil at this location. I use full synthetic 75w90 gear oil. It will mix fine with the conventional oil. You will, however, want to change the Bevel Gear Box Oil. To do this, you will need to siphon the old oil out either through the fill elbow located on the back of the BGB or by removing the plastic vent at the top to siphon the oil out. Replace with the same 75w90 synthetic. I hope this is helpful. Zip~
H Ziippo,
I could fill transaxle oil without any issue. I poured down 2.5L oil and I guess it needs more. I tried siphoned out the bevel gear box oil through fill bow but was not successful since nothing was coming out. I assumed that there was not any oil at all and tried to fill oil through the fill elbow. But it overflew after pouring small amount of oil through the fill elbow. I am planning to remove the plastic vent at the top of the BGB. I am just wondering how to take the gear hood in order to get the access to the plastic vent. I removed all the side bolts but it was not coming off.
Kind regards,
Chamila
2.5 liters is way too much to add to the transmission. Its capacity is just 1 1/2 quarts or 1.42 liters. Did you fill using the hole at the top of the transmission? If so, this is incorrect. There is a square head plug on the bottom right side of the case that is your fill hole, and when oil starts to pour back out, it's full. As for the Bevel Gear Box, they don't take much oil at all either at just One Pint or 473 milliliters. The vent on top of the BGB is accessible by lifting the seat pan, but if you choose to fill the BGB through the vent hole, take the plug out of the fill hole and only fill until oil reaches the top of the fill tube. Too much oil in either the BGB or transmission will only result in the excess oil leaking out. The oil naturally climbs the gears and keeps everything well lubricated, and over filling can lead to problems later on like shearing gear keyways due to the increased resistance the oil creates when the gears are submerged in the oil. It's like when you swim...it's much harder to move through water than it is to walk through air. The excess oil will make it much harder for the gears to move. I hope this makes sense. So, drain the excess oil from the transmission by removing the fill plug. Zip~
I found it interesting that you have all these Simplicity videos. I'll check them out more tomorrow or sometime this week. I have a mostly original Landlord 2210 from 1969 that my parents have had since it was new. It's an unbelievable machine. But I've never seen any of them on TH-cam, or any photos of them on Flickr. Are they rare or what? Thanks!
That brings a 2 questions to mind; Recommended fluid for the trans axle? How about fill check on the peerless manual tranny on the 4200 series?
Just got a 1965 symplicity 101 looking to change oil and not able to locate on motor a oil filter
Watch my latest Simplicity service video Eric. Also, these older air cooled engines didn't have filters. Zip~
@ZippoVarga I had no idea they were that old ! Very Nice Indeed :)
have an old one i found want to find out how to check out how to get it to start video on what to look at would be great have a 1973 simplicity sovereign that wont crank or start can ya give me a run though of what to try?
Zippo,
I traded in my 2012 and B-10 and got a 616, do you have one? If so any videos?
-Nick
I could do that! BTW relative to the IPL on the Peerless, what is the function of the finds #31,33, and 34? Sending a couple pics via email. Thanks again. W
can u make a video on hooking up a tiller because i have one and the arms on the tiller wont on the back of the b-10
how do you lock up the rear end with those weird friction lockers? i have a 1959 or 1962 garden mark squire and i want to use it as a off road mower and i need to lock up the rear end
+Garret Gutierrez It's an involved process requiring disassembling the transmission. A quick way to do it, which I do not suggest, is to reverse two of three gears inside the differential hub on the right side of the tractor as you're sitting on it. If you want to increase traction to both wheels and not risk destroying your transmission then tighten the two set bolts down until both wheels turn with tractor anchored in place. This way, you'll have great traction, but won't risk a catastrophic failure.
Hey zip, I have a 7117 hst, how do I connect the rear lift tube to the hydraulic shaft so I lift a mold board plow, is it a cable or a steel rod?
i have a 1976 allis chaemers 720, can i use dextron 3 in my transmission? the fluid in there now is clear, takes 6 quarts to fill. can i mix the clear fluid with the atf?
Automatic Dextron II is the replacement to the factory fluid. They will mix and work together fine. I suggest Synthetic blend or full synthetic for better wear and life of the transmission. Cheers!! ZIp~
Thank you for your advice given so far to get my simplicity going. My latest problem is that transmission pulley continues to run even when the clutch/break is fully depressed. So that it grinds when I try to change gears. Can you please help me out?
When you declutch, the idler pulley moves away from the belt. If the belt stops (Guards) are not in the proper setting, the belt will continue to spin, making it difficult to get the tractor into gear. With the belt tight as though you're riding, but with the engine off, inspect the forward pulley guard/belt stop. It should be as close to the belt as possible without actually touching it. Also, if there is a belt guide/stop on the idler pulley, it too should be as close to the belt as possible (by rotating it anti or clockwise) so when you declutch, the belt guide/stop makes contact with the belt, grabbing it and helping to stop it. Not all machines had this belt stop on the idler pulley. The idler pulley is what moves up and down when you depress the brake/clutch pedal between the front and rear pulleys on the transmission. I hope this helps. Cheers! Zip~
Thank you so much Zippo One more question for the day. Does the belt need to go on top of the idle pulley or not. For some reason mine is not.
Refresh my memory on what your machine is and what transmission type you have. Some models, like the Variable drive, has a wide belt and wide idler pulley and the belt is under the pulley. With earlier gear only transmissions, the belt rides on top of the pulley. Zip~
It is Simplicity 3212V. I am sorry I don't know the type of the transmission it has got. In fact I am not sure whether I have a variable drive or not. It has got a leaver to go slow and fast.
Email me at ZippoVarga@gmail.com and I will email you the correct owners manual for your 3212V which will outline how to properly adjust the variable pulleys as well as how to properly adjust the Idler Pulley and Idler Pulley Belt Stop. Bare in mind...there is a good possibility that you will need to replace the drive belt and they do NOT COME CHEAP! Here in the US, expect to pay 80 dollars or about 104.26 Australian. Not cheap, but the belt should last you another 40+ years. Zip~
@bcarbaugh You bet!
zippo, what kind of fluid do i use for the hydraulic s
Depends on what machines you have Lee. Can you shed a little light? Zip~
its a allis chalmers big ten ,i bought it from the original owner but he couldnt remeber the yr ,he is going to send me paper work when he finds it than ks gene
gene lee
Probably 30W oil.
Good morning, i have a problem with a Simplicity Tractor similar to the one that you are working on. It has been stopped for quite some time, i am now making it works, but after some test the transmision is locked in 1st gear aparently, i intended to change gear, the selector moves, but i can not unlocked the gear, is there a chance that you could suggest any way of fixing it? Thanks
+Facundo José Yatchesen Yes! As a matter of fact, I have a video showing how to fix this common issue with the older machines. Here's the link and I hope it gets your tractor back in service soon! Cheers!! Zip~ th-cam.com/video/eqnPXZEV0ZE/w-d-xo.html
+ZippoVarga thanks man, surfing your videos i found the one you mention, the only difference is that in this case it was stucked in 1st gear, but the way of fixing is pretty much the same. Now IT's ALIVE!!!. There is a bunch of pieces i have to clean and adjust and your videos are very clear, even more here in Argentina where it's hard to find manuals and pieces. Regards.
What type of fluid goes in a 1963 b10 garden tractor tranmission
Dennis Hurley
Bevel gear box I put in 80W. The transmission should be DRAINED, FLUSHED and then filled with 80-90.
So ur useing the same gear oil in both the gear box and trans?
Dennis Hurley
Yeah basically. These older machines aren’t super tight tolerance wise. If your using the tractor in the winter a lot, do 75W-90 or something.
so next question what that little part that goes with the gonvor that the rods hook up to its missing
And how many bottles goes it take for the trans
also my oil i just changed has sparkles in it and when i took a sample out it turned white on top
Zippo, Where did you get that go getter seat
? 5/31/2017
Go getter set? I'm not sure what you mean Stan. Is it shown in the video and if so, at what time in the video. Cheers! Zip~
Right at the first, the seat?
Oh, that's just a seat cover covering up a New Old Stock original that I picked up at Rural King. Tractor Supply also carries them. Cheers! Zip~
Thanks Stan
can't get my Allis Chalmers out of first gear but the weird thing is I can't put the shifter in first it will move to 2 3 4 but doesn't change gear I tried your screw driver trick I couldn't get it to work help plz it's snowing where I live gotta get it going asap So I can plow
The rod that's screwed into your shift rod appears to be broken off or it has unscrewed it self and fallen into the gear box. The only fix is to remove the transmission and split it in half to make the repair. Zip~
I just checked the fluid level and it's empty would that cause it to do what it's doing?
I'm not sure what I'm doing my uncle jus had knee surgery so he asked me to look at it but I've never worked on one so I'm kinda lost lol
Fluid, or lack of fluid is most likely what caused the transmission to break down. Zip~
what type of oil should i use in my 7013?
Prementaive maintenance is the only way !
think your flicks are cool an very helpful.
keep them up.
they just don't make them like they use to
+Galen Ball Thanks Galen. I don't want my videos to turn into me talking to the masses. I'd rather stick with what I know and that's talking as though you're standing beside me. Glad you like the flicks! Cheers!! Zip~
That fitting is for the axle not for the differential the fitting for the differential is on the outside wheel side if you have wheel weights on you would have to take the wheel weight off the grease that
While you are correct on later model Simplicity made tractors, on the early ones, where I indicated is where you grease the differential and axle. On the later model tractors, the differential hub has the grease fitting. So we're both correct depending on the year of manufacture. Cheers. Zip~
I will get a video of my tractor on here so you can see what it looks like.
Thanks buddy
wont hook up on the back srrry bout that
Have a B-10 Allis I'm trying to get up and running. So 80/90 wgt in the actual rear end? Where do you fill it at?