Temporary repair if the A/C system until the evaporator temperature sensor can be replaced. I used, 47K Ohm 1/4-Watt Carbon Film Resistor (5-Pack) # 2160258, on the temporary fix in this video.
Dan the Man, Ford Fusion 2007 Manual temp control AC started cooling and then seemed like heating one day last week, then the next day, NO AC at all, Compressor not even kicking in with an idle down Took it to my mechanic, Freon good, he bypassed relay on engine side, compressor engaged, but not how you did it, then he ran the CPU test, -41 degrees, the sensor is showing, he wants $472.00 including part, the interior temp sensor was $16 at Bennett Auto Supply, but in the mean time, I completed your temp fix, I could not get the clips out, so I pulled back the sheathing and bridged the number 3 and 4 as you instructed, insulated them well with electric tape, put it back together, fired up the fusion and tested the AC and all I can say is THANK YOU. I have the replacement part and will complete the repair per the instructions here, in the mean, I am not sweating my ars off in SFLA (south florida) anymore. The only issue I had was I could not find 47 Kohm x 1/4 Watt resisters, but I found 47 Kohm x 1/2 Watt resisters, will there be an issue?
Dan thank you for an awesome video it was easy to do following the instructions and it works like a charm! 12 Lincoln Mkz Hybrid pins 13 and 14 i got a 33kohm resistor
I am glad your are fixed up. I was just getting ready to go on lunch and look for the wiring schematics but I guess I don't need to now. Happy tinkering!
Pulled the dash today replaced evap sensor 3 hours cold a/c feels thanks for the help on the bypass tho i didint wait... good option for the mean time...
I love the kids in the background and him stopping to handle their issues..Thanks a lot for the info saved many of us a lot of money that we cant afford to spend.
Man thank you. It works. I bought everything from Micro Center for less then 20 bucks. I used a 39 omh and it works perfectly. Thank you man you just saved me 300+ bucks.
You started the video with this partition already open, which makes is hard for someone to know where to even find the area that you're working on. You should start from scratch, which would show watchers exactly where to locate those wires. I have no idea where you are... Is this under the steering wheel? Somewhere near or inside or under the glove compartment? Is this area near the gas and brake pedals?.... See my point?
Update Ac is ice cold only on max ac setting and i believe its freezing after 10 15 min Just temp control do not work Would you have any suggestion This mkz has dual zone temp control
+totaljim2 It will not damage anything but you do run the risk of freezing your evaporator and lessening your fuel milage if you run the a/c all the time but that is just a guess as I have not received any real world verification of that.
Hi Dan, thank you for the video and your replies. I read the posts about 2010 Ford Fusions with Automatic Climate Control. No way I can afford to put $600+ out to fix my ac. Symptoms are classic ETS - starts to cool then stops after 2 3- seconds. If I do not use the AutoCC, can this temporary fix work? If not, what stops working - I am in Texas and we need ac.
I would first check the outside Air Temp Sensor which should be around the RH headlight by the grill. The AutoCC has several temp sensors that work together to control the AC system. The first thing is to figure out which sensor is bad. If you suspect the Evaporator Sensor to be bad then check that by disconnecting the plug behind the Glovebox and make sure it is open. If it is then apply the "Temp Fix" but if it is not then you will need to keep checking the senors until you find the one that is bad. If I remember correctly there is three sensors; inside, outside and evaporator temp sensors.
i have a 07 milan with auto climate control, would this work for my car? Also I do not have a check engine code but my a.c. compressor works when power is sent to the plug so i know my issue is not there. it all started when the belt went bad due to a alternator bolt coming loose after the dealer replaced gaskets for timing cover and oil pan, SMH
Hey Dan, Thanks for the video. I'm having the same problem on a 2012.. Same color blue plug but no wire in the 3rd pin. Do you know what wire I need to tap? to make mine work.
Jace I got the same year car with the same problem!! Can you point me in the right direction with the right parts (Numbers ) to get and fix mine too? I appreciate the help ! Ty
Dan - You are the man. I got the 47k 1/4 w fuse at radio shack for $1 for a 5 pack and followed you video and it worked perfectly. Cold air started blowing right away on my 2006 Ford Fusion SEL. I ended up soldering the resistor because I had a hard time pulling back the clamp. On mine the 13 and 15 pin were not the 3rd and 4th like your example (on mine it was the 2nd and 4th). The slots are numbered in very small characters so I just went by the numbers you said. My car guy quoted me $1,000 so I just saved $999 - thanks!!!
Thanks! Have my AC working again on my 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid I put the resistor between the Violet/Brown (pin 13) and Gray/Blue (pin 15). Now I just need to put aside some time to fix it properly.
Good evening I was wondering if this same process can be applied to a 2014 Ford focus SE if so, does anyone know what pins I have to put in the resistor?
Thanks and might I add my 2012 ford fusion se is still using the same resistor I bought at radio shack over 6 years ago and the a/c is still freezing cold.@@amt1298
I used, 47K Ohm 1/4-Watt Carbon Film Resistor (5-Pack) #:2160258, on the temporary fix in this video. The part number is Radio Shack but resistors are available.
I didint notice those colors in 13 and 15 would that be the bottom row to the right ? I got the resistors u stated.. ordered the evap sensor as well doesn't seem fun hehe thanks for your time just..harness is blue
Thank you, thank you, thank you! Did this and it worked like a charm. $0.04 resistor at Fry's (had to buy a 100-pack) and the cold air is blowing again!
We have a 2012 Fusion SEL with Auto Climate Control. When I disconnect #15 (blue/gray wire) no air blows at all. Disconnect #13 (violet/brown) doesn't change anything but #15 from under the dash to the connector must be plugged in otherwise there is no air of any kind. Any ideas?
I pulled my dash last year & changed the evap sensor. Fixed till this year. Won’t pull it again. Started turning the lights & fog lights on. Fixed! For a while. Changed the blend door no change. Trying this next. My mechanic friend says it’s probably a ground problem
Hi, I have 2012 and tried to do it, What a mess, The white piece didn't come out that easy, The pins didn't come out that easy either, the wires connectors are much smaller than the ones in this video. I broke off some blue pieces that held one wire in. I got one out ok, they were not that easy to wrap to the transistors. When I was all done the it didn't even work. so I unplug the blue plug and then it was working. So I thought that cant be good, so I took out the two wire #13 and #15 left them connected with the transistor. and plug back in the blue plug, Its working so I will go with it. I hate this Fusion its a piece of Shit. FORD Fix Or Repair Daily. I hate my Ford Fusion. Now the glove box wont go back in place just right, The car is a piece of shit, I recommend do not buy a Ford. As far as the video, thanks for the inside, but I now fuck it up, but it works, so thank you
Thanks so much for the video, Dan! I did this to my '08 Fusion yesterday morning. I soldered my resistor on though because - try as I might - I couldn't get my wiring connector apart and I didn't want to break it. Anyway, not only does my a/c work beautifully again, but my engine idles smoothly like it should. I have a feeling that when the a/c wasn't working right the computer was trying (unsuccessfully) to adjust the idle.
Just did it to mine 2007 mercury milian , just bought the original sensor and shrink wrap both pins to wires and connect to yellow and purple wires and boom working $30 job
Hey Dan thanks for the video. Can you post a link with the right resistor we can buy, for us that we don't have Radio Shack nearby. A link from Ebay or Amazon would be perfect. Thank you once again!
It is not. This is a temporary fix to bypass the Evaporator Temp Sensor until you can get time to replace the sensor or pay to have the sensor replaced.
Did this and it worked perfectly. I had to disconnect the battery. When the battery was reconnected, the key was in the on position and the A/C was on with the resistor still in place. Something must have blown because the hack no longer works and the mode actuator doesn't switch from vent to def or floor. I tried doing the fix again nothing. I put the wiring back to original nothing. Checked fuses and relays. Help!
This worked for my 2007 Mercury Milan. I stuck a 47K Ohm 1/2 watt resistor into the blue plug--one leg in along side the 3rd wire and the other leg along side of the 4th wire. The compressor kicked on, and the A/C started blowing ice cold air. The resistors were purchased on Amazon--100 47K 1/2 watt for $5. Thank for the video!
Ya i believe so just bought the car im a otr driver so ill be home tomorrow tonight so i can look at it more .. im thinking ill pull the dash friday evening
Absolutely! This is just a temporary fix until people can save up money to really fix it properly. It is a real pain to replace and some are not willing to tackle this job and will need to take there car to the shop.
I have a 2008 Fusion. Same gray and blue plugs. Is it always the 3rd and 4th pins from the left on top. My third one is yellow like in the video but the third one is a different color. I don't have auto air. I just want to make sure on the pins before connecting the resistor.
Awesome, I have a problem on my fusion 2006, can you help me? Poor air flowing out through the vents, the blower motor sounds like working good, but the air flow is too low, like it was blocked.. we know that this model don’t has air filter. A few days ago, the blower began to fail, stopping suddenly for a seconds and then continued working. My problem is the low air flow through the vents.
Can anybody tell me in detail where the AC resistor is on aUK Fusion 2005,ivedropped the glove box,and taken off panel in foot well passenger side,not there thanks.
Abe Ramirez - You have Automatic Climate Control on your 2010 Fusion SEL and I am afraid there is not a quick temporary fix that I would recommend. The Climate Control uses the Evaporator Temp Sensor to control temperature diverter doors and other components. Not sure what would happen when a fixed resistance is temporarily placed in the circuit. I will need to review the diagrams and think about it.
Just read your reply. Last night I connected the resistor to pin 13 and pin 15. The clutch kicked in and it started blowing cold air. One thing I did notice is since I have dual climate controls it only blew cold on driver side but passenger side only blew out cool/fresh air. Not as cold as driver side but better than having hot air. Hopefully I'm not causing any damage. Plz let me know what you come up w/after review the diagram. Thanks for the reply.
Abe Ramirez I am trying to figure out what connection (cannon plug) # which you are using. I am still working it but currently I have no idea what you are bypassing in your circuit. I will look at your pictures and try to figure out what connection # it is based on the pin and wire color locations.
+samuel sangiorgi I used, 47K Ohm 1/4-Watt Carbon Film Resistor (5-Pack) #:2160258, on the temporary fix in this video. The amp draw is approximately 0.000255319149 amps. Thank for positing.
+Dan Weston Dan, my fusion is a 2008 I believe the colors of wires are diferentw than yours, can you help me, the compressor works fine when I charge it directly
Hey Dan, I'm not that savvy with cars to answer if my car has automatic climate control or not. Would these steps work for my 2010 Ford Fusion too? Great video by the way.
phg187 Does your AC control panel have three knobs? Blower Speed on the Left, Temperature in the middle and Air Flow direction on the Right? If It does then you do not have automatic climate control but this will still work for those Fusions as well.
Dan Weston I have blower speed on the left, temperature on the right, and air flow direction in the middle. Would it be unwise of me to use this technique and keep it like this forever without having it professionally fixed? Thank you very much for your reply.
phg187 Well you have automatic climate control but the resistor will still work. I will look at the wiring diagram for the automatic climate control and reply as soon as I can. Need to ensure the wires are the same and in the same location.
phg187 Due to the automatic climate control, this temporary repair is not recommended because the system factors in the the Evap. Sensor resistance to control the components of the automatic climate control and there is not easy way to fool the system with a dummy resistance.
My 06 fan doesnt work right off when i want it, it starts mid ride i live in florida its hot as hell out here i need my ac dont really understand cars but thats a main problem in my vehicle
I’m trying to do this in my 07 fusion sel. It does have climate control. There is no wire in the top left slot then gray blue in second. In the third there is a yellow/purple and fourth is a purple/blue I think. In this system is it still going to be the third and fourth slot regardless of wire color?
Al Ohann The engine control module has detected a fault in the field circuit of the alternator. I would carefully disconnect the plastic plugs on the alternator several times to ensure a good, clean connection. Clear the code, only if P0625 was the only one, and drive. If the code comes back then take the car to an auto parts store to have the charging system checked. Thanks for posting and forgive my delay in reply.
Veré que puedo hacer y lamento haber estado tanto tiempo fuera de mi canal. Estoy usando Google Translate, así que perdonen mi español. ¿Encontraste la información que buscabas?
my ford fusion 2010 sport ac would start heating. ex. i would get in the car, start car, drive off, turn ac on and it would start cooling from anywhere between 30 secs to 10 mins and somewhere within that time it would start throwing out hot air. not ambient air... HOT AIR! as if it's like i'm calling for heat. the thermostat is on the coldest setting. can you help me out?
will this cause the compressor to run constant? possibly ruining the.compressor? if u lower the dial temp on the dashboard dial control will it keep it from running constant? i have standard not automatic climte control. do i have inside and outside temp sensors? 2010 fusion 4cyl
This will not cause the compressor to run constantly. On the Low Pressure side of the system there is a low pressure switch that cycles the compressor at higher engines speeds. At idle with the hood up, the compressor should not be cycling if the system is properly charged. This is normal functioning of the system and compressor.
Hey Dan, quick question, why can't a person by an Evap sensor, then splice the wires and feed them into the new sensor, plug them in and then shove the sensor in (or behind) the glove compartment?
To Whom It Concerns, I have a 2011 or 2012? it doesn't have a wire in pin slot #3 or #13. I do not have Climate control, I think it is a SE? Seems Ford reads these fixes and every few months changes to force you to spend the money to fix.
Joey Ambrose5 months ago I used this hack and it worked perfectly. Here are a few observations/notes: 1. Our car is a 2011 Ford Fusion, and there was no wire in #3 slot. I dug through the comments and used +Dan Weston's note below and to find the right wires: "Well, the wires you need are Violet/Brown (pin 13) and Gray/Blue (pin 15) on the same connector. " 2. To get the wires out of the plug, I used an eyeglass screwdriver I had laying around. 3. Radio shack did not have the resistor, so I got them from my neighbor who is a little nerdy that way. Try an electronics store or get them online if your radio shack doesn't have them. 4. From what my neighbor had, I used 4 transistors to get the right k0hm - a 22, two 22's paralleled, and a 4.7. Luckily me cool neighbor drew me a diagram on how to connect them together. This equaled around 37 k0hm, which for our climate is about right. Thanks again to +Dan Weston for posting this. This was a huge $$ savings. We'll do the real fix using the other cool youtube video when it cools off a little and we have the time
i must be missing something, there is no sensor in the video? Dont u have to connect the sensor to those wires to replace the defective sensor thats actually in the car?
Well thanks but I guess I'm never going to get it because I'm on day 2 of messing with this and I see no clip or lever of any sort to release the wire and I can't solder so looks like a hot summer for me haha!
+bobmelon Good question. The temperature sensor we are bypassing does not control the compressor but rather gives the controller a small piece of information to control the system. Also, there is a pressure switch that must be above a minimum pressure to allow the compressor to run. If the system would develop a leak the compressor would stop running at the minimum pressure. I hope I am not to long winded on this. Happy fixing.
Utilicé una resistencia de película de carbono de 47 000 ohmios y 1/4 vatios (paquete de 5) n.° 2160258 en la solución temporal de este video. 47K Ohm 1/4-Watt Carbon Film Resistor
josh damon Well, the wires you need are Violet/Brown (pin 13) and Gray/Blue (pin 15) on the same connector. See the diagram in my Google Drive at this link; @0. Left me know if you are having issues and I will dig into the schematics a bit more.
Jdhile I ended up dropping the dash forward and replacing the ambient air temp senor alot of work for a 15$ part but ac has worked fine since then I didn't me with wires since thats not four tay
Chad Donnelly Chad, I am afraid you have multiple issues. The resistor is just fooling the the control module that the temperature is a within range. sounds like you have a bad compressor clutch that is internally shorted.
Hey can I send you an email? I'm trying to do this on my 2012 ford fusion and the 3rd pin isnt there, I would attach a picture but I cant on this platform
Ok im confused here. 1. The resistor you have in the video is a 473 ohm resistor according to the color chart. But you said it was a 47Kohm? 2. Also im seeing people in the comments using 33k resistors. So can anyone explain this please? My fusion is a 2008. Not sure if its auto or not. Dont know how to tell.
I used a 47k resistor but others have has success with using 33k resistors. Mainly you are setting a resistance to the system with function without the Evap Senor as it is a major pain to get to. Sorry if my video was not very clear. It was a spur of the moment thing and I am not the best speaker.
John Laughlin In the video you will see me carefully using a small pick from the plug side of the connector to gently move the wire retention clip to allow the wire with its crimped connector to be removed. If you continue to have issues, you can always strip a small section of the wires and solder the resistor in place.
you can just insert each side of the resistor into the back of the plug in the proper locations and zip tie into place. You can use quick wire connectors instead and would be a more secure choice. Example: www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjwo5Xk7pTcAhWJ6IMKHRoWB08QjRx6BAgBEAU&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.walmart.com%2Fip%2F3M-Electrical-540H-Wire-Connectors-16-count%2F17330753&psig=AOvVaw0lAIYLwcZnCO94oo2DhsM8&ust=1531323484942922
If you use the Quick Wire Connectors, be sure to use meter and check for resistance at the wire locations on the other plug. You are verifying that the Evap Senor is open (∞ resistance) and if the circuit is open then test the system with the resistor temp installed to make sure it fixes the issue. Finally you can go ahead with the Quick Wire Connectors.
+Shannon Crapse you should be able to do the same type of temporary fix but I would have to do some research as I have not personally worked on the 500.
+2Nite2Nite Be gentle. You don't need to get rough with it. I used a pick to remove the pin and open the insulation crimp. Then a small pair of needle nose pliers to gently crimp.
+Tom Fox static system pressure is high enough but probably your low pressure switch has gone bad. Firstly, check your fuses and if they are ok then continue. Find the switch on top of the receiver dryer (a vertical can looking item on the low pressure side, large lines) and unplug the connector. Use a jumper wire or paper clip to make the connection between the contacts of the plug. This will bypass the switch in the system when you start the can and turn on the A/C. If the clutch engages, then the switch is bad but if it does not then you have to keep troubleshooting. I am assuming you do not have a multimeter but if you do, checking to see if the switch is open or closed would be the best choice. Let me know what you find.
Dan--thanks for the information, but is there a receiver dryer on the Fusion Titanium? I couldn't see it from the top so I put it up on my lift and still couldn't find a canister (I looked at the part on a parts site to be sure of what I was looking for).
All A/C Systems will have a Receiver dryer (AKA accumulator). From what I can determine, the receiver dryer is just behind the bumper cover and in front of the Radiator and condenser on the RH side of the car. The black plastic cover that goes from the bumper cover to the radiator support will need to be removed to get access to it.
Hey Dan do you know if this procedure would be the same for a 07 Mercury Milan. Also would it be the same wires 3 and 4. I know the owners manual is the same manual for a 07 Ford Fusion. Thanks for any help you can give me. Great video by the way.
I will have to search the comments as I do not remember off the top of my head. You can purchase the resistor off ebay, Amazon or a local electronics store.
Joey Ambrose posted 10 months ago I used this hack and it worked perfectly. Here are a few observations/notes: 1. Our car is a 2011 Ford Fusion, and there was no wire in #3 slot. I dug through the comments and used +Dan Weston's note below and to find the right wires: "Well, the wires you need are Violet/Brown (pin 13) and Gray/Blue (pin 15) on the same connector. " 2. To get the wires out of the plug, I used an eyeglass screwdriver I had laying around. 3. Radio shack did not have the resistor, so I got them from my neighbor who is a little nerdy that way. Try an electronics store or get them online if your radio shack doesn't have them. 4. From what my neighbor had, I used 4 transistors to get the right k0hm - a 22, two 22's paralleled, and a 4.7. Luckily me cool neighbor drew me a diagram on how to connect them together. This equaled around 37 k0hm, which for our climate is about right. Thanks again to +Dan Weston for posting this. This was a huge $$ savings. We'll do the real fix using the other cool youtube video when it cools off a little and we have the time
I used this hack and it worked perfectly. Here are a few observations/notes: 1. Our car is a 2011 Ford Fusion, and there was no wire in #3 slot. I dug through the comments and used +Dan Weston's note below and to find the right wires: "Well, the wires you need are Violet/Brown (pin 13) and Gray/Blue (pin 15) on the same connector. " 2. To get the wires out of the plug, I used an eyeglass screwdriver I had laying around. 3. Radio shack did not have the resistor, so I got them from my neighbor who is a little nerdy that way. Try an electronics store or get them online if your radio shack doesn't have them. 4. From what my neighbor had, I used 4 transistors to get the right k0hm - a 22, two 22's paralleled, and a 4.7. Luckily me cool neighbor drew me a diagram on how to connect them together. This equaled around 37 k0hm, which for our climate is about right. Thanks again to +Dan Weston for posting this. This was a huge $$ savings. We'll do the real fix using the other cool youtube video when it cools off a little and we have the time.
My daughter's 2013 doesn't have the connectors behind the glove box. I looked! Needing help identifying where these connectors are located on a 2013 Fusion.
HI sir my car Hyundai trajet diesel 2.0 cdri and average temperature in my country 28 to 40 Celsius in summer witch resistor i use i mean the number ( 3 . 4 .6 . 8 ) k ohm
hey Dan I tried that quick fix on my wifes 2010 fusion sport and it doesn't seem to work . so I put my head under the dash on the driver side and leave the ac on turn the car off for a few seconds and turn it back on and I can hear some kind of a motor that turns on for a sec. at the same time this is happening the ac blows cold for about 3 to 5 seconds then I hear that motor thing again and it starts blowing really hot air . and all this with in a matter of no more than 10 seconds . any ideas what it can be ?
Dan Weston I believe it might shut off after it automatically switches to heat but then I'm not too sure . not sure where the ac compressor is located in this car
I have a 2006 3.0L fusion. I have tried using a 33 k resistor for this fix to no avail :( the compressor still will not turn on. Could I need a 37 k resistor or higher or would that not make a difference?
Then you have another issue. Have you checked the basics first? Does the system have a proper charge? Was the compressor cycling more often than normal prior to your issue? If you have a proper charge on the system and it is not running, unplug the low pressure switch and jumper the 2 connections to see if the compressor will turn on. You will need to do some trouble shooting to find the problem.
My dad did this on his Mercury Milan and I just wanted to put up some notes: This only worked once. He buttoned it up and tried it out, then parked the car. The next day it didn't work. Not sure why, or if the Milan is somehow different than the Fusion, but this was only temporary for him. He bought the sensor and at refrigerator temps the sensor was 46K ohms, so you've go the right resistance using the 47k ohm resistor. Room temp the resistor was 26k ohm. One question; why are you suggesting to hook the terminals back into the connector after the resistor install? Isn't the point of the resistor to replicate the sensor? I told my dad to take his back apart and just leave the wire terminals out of the connector so it's just the 47k ohm resistor and nothing else. I'm hoping his issue was the sensor is now throwing some random resistance to the computer because the sensor is still partially working somehow.
Thank you for this video. I pulled the plug and there is nothing in the 3rd slot just the 4th. Mine is a 2011 ford fusion. Will this work with that model year? Thanks in advance
Hi Dan I've got a 2010 Mercury Milan after looking behind the glove box to the left plug in harness there is also no third wire will the 13 and 15 pin apply to my car also? Do I have to wait to do this at a certain temperature? Thanks for your help your video is very informative Steve
Thanks you have helped me with this aggravation twice I have gone to Mountain View Ford Dealership and they keep saying they can't find nothing wrong with the ac. Right! It don't blow cold air just hot every once in a while it blew cold ac and then extremely hot. Thanks again for answering my reply have a good one! Steve
Hey Dan, thanks for the informative video. My brother and I tried this on my 2010 Ford Fusion and you can hear the compressor kick on for a few seconds when you first start the car but then it just stops. Do you know what could be causing that?
A watcher posted a summary that should answer your questions. Joey Ambrose wrote; I used this hack and it worked perfectly. Here are a few observations/notes: 1. Our car is a 2011 Ford Fusion, and there was no wire in #3 slot. I dug through the comments and used +Dan Weston's note below and to find the right wires: "Well, the wires you need are Violet/Brown (pin 13) and Gray/Blue (pin 15) on the same connector. " 2. To get the wires out of the plug, I used an eyeglass screwdriver I had laying around. 3. Radio shack did not have the resistor, so I got them from my neighbor who is a little nerdy that way. Try an electronics store or get them online if your radio shack doesn't have them. 4. From what my neighbor had, I used 4 transistors to get the right k0hm - a 22, two 22's paralleled, and a 4.7. Luckily me cool neighbor drew me a diagram on how to connect them together. This equaled around 37 k0hm, which for our climate is about right. Thanks again to +Dan Weston for posting this. This was a huge $$ savings. We'll do the real fix using the other cool youtube video when it cools off a little and we have the time.
Hey Dan question the blue connector what is it called? Or the silver lead at the end of the wire? I tried to get to it but the wire cut and I need to replace the silver lead. Just can't find it.
My first thought and easiest, is to go to a salvage yard and remove the pin from another car and cut the wire with plenty of length so you can splice it in. The connector on the wire is crimped on and I am unaware of a proper tool to crimp factory items without deforming it.
Thank you so much for this video. My AC stopped working last week and I came across this video, so I gave it a try. Now it works great. Thanks again!
i just want to say thank you you bought me time till i can pull the dash
Dan the Man,
Ford Fusion 2007 Manual temp control
AC started cooling and then seemed like heating one day last week, then the next day, NO AC at all, Compressor not even kicking in with an idle down
Took it to my mechanic, Freon good, he bypassed relay on engine side, compressor engaged, but not how you did it, then he ran the CPU test, -41 degrees, the sensor is showing, he wants $472.00 including part, the interior temp sensor was $16 at Bennett Auto Supply, but in the mean time, I completed your temp fix, I could not get the clips out, so I pulled back the sheathing and bridged the number 3 and 4 as you instructed, insulated them well with electric tape, put it back together, fired up the fusion and tested the AC and all I can say is THANK YOU. I have the replacement part and will complete the repair per the instructions here, in the mean, I am not sweating my ars off in SFLA (south florida) anymore.
The only issue I had was I could not find 47 Kohm x 1/4 Watt resisters, but I found 47 Kohm x 1/2 Watt resisters, will there be an issue?
Great works great.My connector on a 2012 uses 13 and 15
For the 2012 it's the 13th and 15th slot?
thanks! this worked on my 2006. same wire positions, same colors and everything. air is ICE cold now.
Thank you for the video very informative i might try this on the daughters car.
Dan thank you for an awesome video it was easy to do following the instructions and it works like a charm!
12 Lincoln Mkz Hybrid pins 13 and 14
i got a 33kohm resistor
I am glad your are fixed up. I was just getting ready to go on lunch and look for the wiring schematics but I guess I don't need to now. Happy tinkering!
Dan Weston Thanks again really happy
Pulled the dash today replaced evap sensor 3 hours cold a/c feels thanks for the help on the bypass tho i didint wait... good option for the mean time...
What’s the worst that could happen if you do this and never get the permanent sensor fix?
it will ice up and stop blowing air.
I love the kids in the background and him stopping to handle their issues..Thanks a lot for the info saved many of us a lot of money that we cant afford to spend.
Man thank you. It works. I bought everything from Micro Center for less then 20 bucks. I used a 39 omh and it works perfectly. Thank you man you just saved me 300+ bucks.
You started the video with this partition already open, which makes is hard for someone to know where to even find the area that you're working on. You should start from scratch, which would show watchers exactly where to locate those wires. I have no idea where you are... Is this under the steering wheel? Somewhere near or inside or under the glove compartment? Is this area near the gas and brake pedals?.... See my point?
Can you tell which connector is ford ecosport 2013 1 ltr
Did this with 2009 fusion now a/c is dead again no cold air, replaced resistor still same
Thanks... A 47K-Ohm, 1/2 Watt resistor between 13 and 15 did the trick for me on Fusion without Climate Control.
Update
Ac is ice cold only on max ac setting and i believe its freezing after 10 15 min
Just temp control do not work
Would you have any suggestion
This mkz has dual zone temp control
If i'm lazy and just leave this in can it do damage over time or is it okay to just leave it in long term?
+totaljim2 It will not damage anything but you do run the risk of freezing your evaporator and lessening your fuel milage if you run the a/c all the time but that is just a guess as I have not received any real world verification of that.
Hi Dan, thank you for the video and your replies. I read the posts about 2010 Ford Fusions with Automatic Climate Control. No way I can afford to put $600+ out to fix my ac. Symptoms are classic ETS - starts to cool then stops after 2 3- seconds. If I do not use the AutoCC, can this temporary fix work? If not, what stops working - I am in Texas and we need ac.
I would first check the outside Air Temp Sensor which should be around the RH headlight by the grill. The AutoCC has several temp sensors that work together to control the AC system. The first thing is to figure out which sensor is bad. If you suspect the Evaporator Sensor to be bad then check that by disconnecting the plug behind the Glovebox and make sure it is open. If it is then apply the "Temp Fix" but if it is not then you will need to keep checking the senors until you find the one that is bad. If I remember correctly there is three sensors; inside, outside and evaporator temp sensors.
Hey Dan I'm having the hardest time getting the pins out for my 2007 Mercury Milan. It's driving me nuts.
Skam714 Help.... I have a 2006 Milan with the same problem.
What do you need a. Resistor.? Just to bypass. The evaporator temperature sensor
That is correct.
i have a 07 milan with auto climate control, would this work for my car?
Also I do not have a check engine code but my a.c. compressor works when power is sent to the plug so i know my issue is not there. it all started when the belt went bad due to a alternator bolt coming loose after the dealer replaced gaskets for timing cover and oil pan, SMH
Hey Dan, Thanks for the video. I'm having the same problem on a 2012.. Same color blue plug but no wire in the 3rd pin. Do you know what wire I need to tap? to make mine work.
Rob Sepulveda They changed something...I will need to do some research to find the correct wires.
please if you can. Dan's the man!
Rob Sepulveda Does your Fusion have automatic climate control?
no it doesn't look like it. it has a manuel temperature dial. not digital.
Rob Sepulveda Well, the wires you need are Violet/Brown (pin 13) and Gray/Blue (pin 15) on the same connector.
Works perfectly! On 2006 Milan. Cold as ICE. Thank you
Great. Happy tinkering!!
Jace I got the same year car with the same problem!! Can you point me in the right direction with the right parts (Numbers ) to get and fix mine too? I appreciate the help ! Ty
Dan - You are the man. I got the 47k 1/4 w fuse at radio shack for $1 for a 5 pack and followed you video and it worked perfectly. Cold air started blowing right away on my 2006 Ford Fusion SEL. I ended up soldering the resistor because I had a hard time pulling back the clamp. On mine the 13 and 15 pin were not the 3rd and 4th like your example (on mine it was the 2nd and 4th). The slots are numbered in very small characters so I just went by the numbers you said. My car guy quoted me $1,000 so I just saved $999 - thanks!!!
+Ted Kelly
Your welcome.
I have the same car & problem I try this for my A/c
Thanks! Have my AC working again on my 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid I put the resistor between the Violet/Brown (pin 13) and Gray/Blue (pin 15). Now I just need to put aside some time to fix it properly.
Good evening I was wondering if this same process can be applied to a 2014 Ford focus SE if so, does anyone know what pins I have to put in the resistor?
I am sure the same principle will apply and you can get access to the wiring diagrams at the library.
Thanks and might I add my 2012 ford fusion se is still using the same resistor I bought at radio shack over 6 years ago and the a/c is still freezing cold.@@amt1298
What size resister do you use ??
I used, 47K Ohm 1/4-Watt Carbon Film Resistor (5-Pack) #:2160258, on the temporary fix in this video. The part number is Radio Shack but resistors are available.
I didint notice those colors in 13 and 15 would that be the bottom row to the right ? I got the resistors u stated.. ordered the evap sensor as well doesn't seem fun hehe thanks for your time just..harness is blue
josh damon I have not forgotten about you, just been busy. Hang in there.
josh damon Do you have Automatic Climate Control?
On a 2007 fusion se, will it for sure be the 3rd and 4th wires from the left?
Thank you, thank you, thank you! Did this and it worked like a charm. $0.04 resistor at Fry's (had to buy a 100-pack) and the cold air is blowing again!
Now you should repackage the resistors into smaller quantities and sell them on ebay.
We have a 2012 Fusion SEL with Auto Climate Control. When I disconnect #15 (blue/gray wire) no air blows at all. Disconnect #13 (violet/brown) doesn't change anything but #15 from under the dash to the connector must be plugged in otherwise there is no air of any kind. Any ideas?
I pulled my dash last year & changed the evap sensor. Fixed till this year. Won’t pull it again. Started turning the lights & fog lights on. Fixed! For a while. Changed the blend door no change. Trying this next. My mechanic friend says it’s probably a ground problem
Hi, I have 2012 and tried to do it, What a mess, The white piece didn't come out that easy, The pins didn't come out that easy either, the wires connectors are much smaller than the ones in this video. I broke off some blue pieces that held one wire in. I got one out ok, they were not that easy to wrap to the transistors. When I was all done the it didn't even work. so I unplug the blue plug and then it was working. So I thought that cant be good, so I took out the two wire #13 and #15 left them connected with the transistor. and plug back in the blue plug, Its working so I will go with it. I hate this Fusion its a piece of Shit. FORD Fix Or Repair Daily. I hate my Ford Fusion. Now the glove box wont go back in place just right, The car is a piece of shit, I recommend do not buy a Ford. As far as the video, thanks for the inside, but I now fuck it up, but it works, so thank you
Thanks so much for the video, Dan! I did this to my '08 Fusion yesterday morning. I soldered my resistor on though because - try as I might - I couldn't get my wiring connector apart and I didn't want to break it. Anyway, not only does my a/c work beautifully again, but my engine idles smoothly like it should. I have a feeling that when the a/c wasn't working right the computer was trying (unsuccessfully) to adjust the idle.
Hola, podrías ayudarme, ¿Qué color de cables lleva la resistencia?
Just did it to mine
2007 mercury milian , just bought the original sensor and shrink wrap both pins to wires and connect to yellow and purple wires and boom working
$30 job
Thank you, my brother. I have a question, what is the problem that may cause with the long time (I have a compressor without a clutch)
Hey Dan thanks for the video. Can you post a link with the right resistor we can buy, for us that we don't have Radio Shack nearby.
A link from Ebay or Amazon would be perfect.
Thank you once again!
+Liridon D
www.ebay.com/i/302455865560
www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2386202.m570.l1312.R1.TR11.TRC2.A0.H0.X47.TRS1&_nkw=47k+resistor&_sacat=0
Is this a fix for air that is cold but not really cold?
It is not. This is a temporary fix to bypass the Evaporator Temp Sensor until you can get time to replace the sensor or pay to have the sensor replaced.
Did this and it worked perfectly. I had to disconnect the battery. When the battery was reconnected, the key was in the on position and the A/C was on with the resistor still in place. Something must have blown because the hack no longer works and the mode actuator doesn't switch from vent to def or floor. I tried doing the fix again nothing. I put the wiring back to original nothing. Checked fuses and relays. Help!
Do you have automatic climate control? Also, did you check to see if the sensor side of the harness is an open circuit?
@@amt1298 I do not have auto. I also do not know how to check for an open circuit - or fix that
@@katietriggs1625
Do you have a multimeter or can barrow one? Also, what year is your Ford Fusion?
@@amt1298 it's 2012. I have not checked the sensor side. I will have to get a multimeter.
I got a 2011 Ford fusion se and my a.c. just gave up and I think it might the sensor ... might this help?
Did it end up working?
This worked for my 2007 Mercury Milan. I stuck a 47K Ohm 1/2 watt resistor into the blue plug--one leg in along side the 3rd wire and the other leg along side of the 4th wire. The compressor kicked on, and the A/C started blowing ice cold air. The resistors were purchased on Amazon--100 47K 1/2 watt for $5. Thank for the video!
Ya i believe so just bought the car im a otr driver so ill be home tomorrow tonight so i can look at it more .. im thinking ill pull the dash friday evening
Do not use a resistor use a new evap sensor works like a charm no worries of freezing ......
Absolutely! This is just a temporary fix until people can save up money to really fix it properly. It is a real pain to replace and some are not willing to tackle this job and will need to take there car to the shop.
Do you just tuck the evap sensor behind the glovebox?
@@jasongittemeier4946 yes
I have a 2008 Fusion. Same gray and blue plugs. Is it always the 3rd and 4th pins from the left on top. My third one is yellow like in the video but the third one is a different color. I don't have auto air. I just want to make sure on the pins before connecting the resistor.
Awesome, I have a problem on my fusion 2006, can you help me? Poor air flowing out through the vents, the blower motor sounds like working good, but the air flow is too low, like it was blocked.. we know that this model don’t has air filter. A few days ago, the blower began to fail, stopping suddenly for a seconds and then continued working. My problem is the low air flow through the vents.
Can anybody tell me in detail where the AC resistor is on aUK Fusion 2005,ivedropped the glove box,and taken off panel in foot well passenger side,not there thanks.
Abe Ramirez - You have Automatic Climate Control on your 2010 Fusion SEL and I am afraid there is not a quick temporary fix that I would recommend. The Climate Control uses the Evaporator Temp Sensor to control temperature diverter doors and other components. Not sure what would happen when a fixed resistance is temporarily placed in the circuit. I will need to review the diagrams and think about it.
Just read your reply. Last night I connected the resistor to pin 13 and pin 15. The clutch kicked in and it started blowing cold air. One thing I did notice is since I have dual climate controls it only blew cold on driver side but passenger side only blew out cool/fresh air. Not as cold as driver side but better than having hot air.
Hopefully I'm not causing any damage. Plz let me know what you come up w/after review the diagram.
Thanks for the reply.
Abe Ramirez I am trying to figure out what connection (cannon plug) # which you are using. I am still working it but currently I have no idea what you are bypassing in your circuit. I will look at your pictures and try to figure out what connection # it is based on the pin and wire color locations.
Hi dan, whats is the amps of this resistor, please
+samuel sangiorgi I used, 47K Ohm 1/4-Watt Carbon Film Resistor (5-Pack) #:2160258, on the temporary fix in this video. The amp draw is approximately 0.000255319149 amps. Thank for positing.
+Dan Weston Dan, my fusion is a 2008 I believe the colors of wires are diferentw than yours, can you help me, the compressor works fine when I charge it directly
Humidity Sensor location?
I am not sure on that and hope you were able to locate it.
Hey Dan, I'm not that savvy with cars to answer if my car has automatic climate control or not. Would these steps work for my 2010 Ford Fusion too? Great video by the way.
phg187 Does your AC control panel have three knobs? Blower Speed on the Left, Temperature in the middle and Air Flow direction on the Right? If It does then you do not have automatic climate control but this will still work for those Fusions as well.
Dan Weston I have blower speed on the left, temperature on the right, and air flow direction in the middle. Would it be unwise of me to use this technique and keep it like this forever without having it professionally fixed? Thank you very much for your reply.
phg187 Well you have automatic climate control but the resistor will still work. I will look at the wiring diagram for the automatic climate control and reply as soon as I can. Need to ensure the wires are the same and in the same location.
phg187 Due to the automatic climate control, this temporary repair is not recommended because the system factors in the the Evap. Sensor resistance to control the components of the automatic climate control and there is not easy way to fool the system with a dummy resistance.
Dan Weston Thank you very much for all of your responses. I appreciate it very much. EXCELLENT VIDEO!!
Its the AC Working good?
The last I heard it was working just fine.
My 06 fan doesnt work right off when i want it, it starts mid ride i live in florida its hot as hell out here i need my ac dont really understand cars but thats a main problem in my vehicle
I’m trying to do this in my 07 fusion sel. It does have climate control. There is no wire in the top left slot then gray blue in second. In the third there is a yellow/purple and fourth is a purple/blue I think. In this system is it still going to be the third and fourth slot regardless of wire color?
Sounds like Tommy Chong
I was just using an iPhone. Ha Ha
2006 ford fusion CHARGING SYSTEM LIGHT ON BUT IT CHARGING 14.6 ANY CLUE WHERE TO START. PO625 CODE
Al Ohann The engine control module has detected a fault in the field circuit of the alternator. I would carefully disconnect the plastic plugs on the alternator several times to ensure a good, clean connection. Clear the code, only if P0625 was the only one, and drive. If the code comes back then take the car to an auto parts store to have the charging system checked. Thanks for posting and forgive my delay in reply.
Me pueden ayudar, no hablo inglés.
Veré que puedo hacer y lamento haber estado tanto tiempo fuera de mi canal. Estoy usando Google Translate, así que perdonen mi español. ¿Encontraste la información que buscabas?
I have a 2011 fusion sport with navigation and the dual climate control. Has anyone tried it and had it work on a model like this?
my ford fusion 2010 sport ac would start heating. ex. i would get in the
car, start car, drive off, turn ac on and it would start cooling from
anywhere between 30 secs to 10 mins and somewhere within that time it
would start throwing out hot air. not ambient air... HOT AIR! as if it's
like i'm calling for heat. the thermostat is on the coldest setting.
can you help me out?
will this cause the compressor to run constant? possibly ruining the.compressor? if u lower the dial temp on the dashboard dial control will it keep it from running constant? i have standard not automatic climte control. do i have inside and outside temp sensors? 2010 fusion 4cyl
This will not cause the compressor to run constantly. On the Low Pressure side of the system there is a low pressure switch that cycles the compressor at higher engines speeds. At idle with the hood up, the compressor should not be cycling if the system is properly charged. This is normal functioning of the system and compressor.
Hey Dan, quick question, why can't a person by an Evap sensor, then splice the wires and feed them into the new sensor, plug them in and then shove the sensor in (or behind) the glove compartment?
You could but the sensor will cost far more than the resistor.
To Whom It Concerns, I have a 2011 or 2012? it doesn't have a wire in pin slot #3 or #13.
I do not have Climate control, I think it is a SE? Seems Ford reads these fixes and every few months changes to force you to spend the money to fix.
Joey Ambrose5 months ago
I used this hack and it worked perfectly. Here are a few observations/notes:
1. Our car is a 2011 Ford Fusion, and there was no wire in #3 slot. I dug through the comments and used +Dan Weston's note below and to find the right wires: "Well, the wires you need are Violet/Brown (pin 13) and Gray/Blue (pin 15) on the same connector. "
2. To get the wires out of the plug, I used an eyeglass screwdriver I had laying around.
3. Radio shack did not have the resistor, so I got them from my neighbor who is a little nerdy that way. Try an electronics store or get them online if your radio shack doesn't have them.
4. From what my neighbor had, I used 4 transistors to get the right k0hm - a 22, two 22's paralleled, and a 4.7. Luckily me cool neighbor drew me a diagram on how to connect them together. This equaled around 37 k0hm, which for our climate is about right.
Thanks again to +Dan Weston for posting this. This was a huge $$ savings. We'll do the real fix using the other cool youtube video when it cools off a little and we have the time
i must be missing something, there is no sensor in the video? Dont u have to connect the sensor to those wires to replace the defective sensor thats actually in the car?
Teddy Phoenix
What we are doing in the video is fooling the system that there is a good sensor by temporary placing a resistor in the open circuit.
Hey thanks Dan that's big help considering the alternative (taking your whole car apart)
Well thanks but I guess I'm never going to get it because I'm on day 2 of messing with this and I see no clip or lever of any sort to release the wire and I can't solder so looks like a hot summer for me haha!
if you have this problem just sell the car it is better.
What if your freon were to leak out ? Would the compressor keep ruining and self destruct?
+bobmelon Good question. The temperature sensor we are bypassing does not control the compressor but rather gives the controller a small piece of information to control the system. Also, there is a pressure switch that must be above a minimum pressure to allow the compressor to run. If the system would develop a leak the compressor would stop running at the minimum pressure. I hope I am not to long winded on this. Happy fixing.
Que valor es la resistencia
Utilicé una resistencia de película de carbono de 47 000 ohmios y 1/4 vatios (paquete de 5) n.° 2160258 en la solución temporal de este video.
47K Ohm 1/4-Watt Carbon Film Resistor
Is this on an 06?
What tools would I need to complete this? Just the pin and resistor?
Basic tools but you will need to support the engine if you are taking the transmission out.
What wires do i need for a 2011 fusion seems different then 06 and 2012 thanks wanna try this first
josh damon Well, the wires you need are Violet/Brown (pin 13) and Gray/Blue (pin 15) on the same connector. See the diagram in my Google Drive at this link; @0. Left me know if you are having issues and I will dig into the schematics a bit more.
Dan Weston I’m messing with a 2011 Fusion Sport. Would the wiring be any different??
Jdhile I ended up dropping the dash forward and replacing the ambient air temp senor alot of work for a 15$ part but ac has worked fine since then I didn't me with wires since thats not four tay
Awesome video! I was wondering if this worked for a 2010 Lincoln MKT? And if so, could you provide guidance on which wires?
Ok would have to figure out which wires to use on it
I installed the resistor and it worked for a week before a fuse blew and now the ac coil is dead. Could this be a result of adding the resistor?
Chad Donnelly Chad, I am afraid you have multiple issues. The resistor is just fooling the the control module that the temperature is a within range. sounds like you have a bad compressor clutch that is internally shorted.
Hey can I send you an email? I'm trying to do this on my 2012 ford fusion and the 3rd pin isnt there, I would attach a picture but I cant on this platform
Do you have automatic climate control? Also, search the comments for this...I recall someone posting about a similar issue.
There is no auto climate control on my car
I saw they suggested the 13th and 15th but my car has an empty slot on the 13th as well.
Thank-you works great
Ok im confused here.
1. The resistor you have in the video is a 473 ohm resistor according to the color chart. But you said it was a 47Kohm?
2. Also im seeing people in the comments using 33k resistors.
So can anyone explain this please? My fusion is a 2008. Not sure if its auto or not. Dont know how to tell.
I used a 47k resistor but others have has success with using 33k resistors. Mainly you are setting a resistance to the system with function without the Evap Senor as it is a major pain to get to. Sorry if my video was not very clear. It was a spur of the moment thing and I am not the best speaker.
How the hell do you pop the pens out? I've mangled the shit out of the blue clip
John Laughlin In the video you will see me carefully using a small pick from the plug side of the connector to gently move the wire retention clip to allow the wire with its crimped connector to be removed. If you continue to have issues, you can always strip a small section of the wires and solder the resistor in place.
I find it impossible to open the clamps to insert the resistor wires. One does not overlap the other. Another solution?
you can just insert each side of the resistor into the back of the plug in the proper locations and zip tie into place. You can use quick wire connectors instead and would be a more secure choice. Example: www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjwo5Xk7pTcAhWJ6IMKHRoWB08QjRx6BAgBEAU&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.walmart.com%2Fip%2F3M-Electrical-540H-Wire-Connectors-16-count%2F17330753&psig=AOvVaw0lAIYLwcZnCO94oo2DhsM8&ust=1531323484942922
If you use the Quick Wire Connectors, be sure to use meter and check for resistance at the wire locations on the other plug. You are verifying that the Evap Senor is open (∞ resistance) and if the circuit is open then test the system with the resistor temp installed to make sure it fixes the issue. Finally you can go ahead with the Quick Wire Connectors.
Do you know if you can do anything like this with a 2007 ford 500?
+Shannon Crapse you should be able to do the same type of temporary fix but I would have to do some research as I have not personally worked on the 500.
Hey Dan, any advice on uncrimping, inserting the resistor and recrimping? Thanks.
+2Nite2Nite
Be gentle. You don't need to get rough with it. I used a pick to remove the pin and open the insulation crimp. Then a small pair of needle nose pliers to gently crimp.
'14 Fusion Titanium--a/c pressure reads ~115#--replaced the thermal expansion valve still the same problem. Compressor issue? Other ideas? Thanks--Tom
+Tom Fox static system pressure is high enough but probably your low pressure switch has gone bad. Firstly, check your fuses and if they are ok then continue.
Find the switch on top of the receiver dryer (a vertical can looking item on the low pressure side, large lines) and unplug the connector. Use a jumper wire or paper clip to make the connection between the contacts of the plug. This will bypass the switch in the system when you start the can and turn on the A/C. If the clutch engages, then the switch is bad but if it does not then you have to keep troubleshooting. I am assuming you do not have a multimeter but if you do, checking to see if the switch is open or closed would be the best choice. Let me know what you find.
Dan--thanks for the information, but is there a receiver dryer on the Fusion Titanium? I couldn't see it from the top so I put it up on my lift and still couldn't find a canister (I looked at the part on a parts site to be sure of what I was looking for).
All A/C Systems will have a Receiver dryer (AKA accumulator). From what I can determine, the receiver dryer is just behind the bumper cover and in front of the Radiator and condenser on the RH side of the car. The black plastic cover that goes from the bumper cover to the radiator support will need to be removed to get access to it.
I have of same problem on 06 ford fusion sle.
Hey Dan do you know if this procedure would be the same for a 07 Mercury Milan. Also would it be the same wires 3 and 4. I know the owners manual is the same manual for a 07 Ford Fusion. Thanks for any help you can give me. Great video by the way.
James, yes it will but the only difference is if the Milan has Automatic Climate control.
@@amt1298 Dan, what pins for an 07 Milan with Climate Control and what pins for 07 Milan without climate control? Great video, thanks for posting!
Dan i have a 2011.... is it the 3rd and 4th wire on my model also? Also, where do i get a resistor at? plz reply asap .... its hot!!!!!! thanks
I will have to search the comments as I do not remember off the top of my head. You can purchase the resistor off ebay, Amazon or a local electronics store.
Joey Ambrose posted 10 months ago
I used this hack and it worked perfectly. Here are a few observations/notes:
1. Our car is a 2011 Ford Fusion, and there was no wire in #3 slot. I dug through the comments and used +Dan Weston's note below and to find the right wires: "Well, the wires you need are Violet/Brown (pin 13) and Gray/Blue (pin 15) on the same connector. "
2. To get the wires out of the plug, I used an eyeglass screwdriver I had laying around.
3. Radio shack did not have the resistor, so I got them from my neighbor who is a little nerdy that way. Try an electronics store or get them online if your radio shack doesn't have them.
4. From what my neighbor had, I used 4 transistors to get the right k0hm - a 22, two 22's paralleled, and a 4.7. Luckily me cool neighbor drew me a diagram on how to connect them together. This equaled around 37 k0hm, which for our climate is about right.
Thanks again to +Dan Weston for posting this. This was a huge $$ savings. We'll do the real fix using the other cool youtube video when it cools off a little and we have the time
Thanks. I really appreciate it
I used this hack and it worked perfectly. Here are a few observations/notes:
1. Our car is a 2011 Ford Fusion, and there was no wire in #3 slot. I dug through the comments and used +Dan Weston's note below and to find the right wires: "Well, the wires you need are Violet/Brown (pin 13) and Gray/Blue (pin 15) on the same connector. "
2. To get the wires out of the plug, I used an eyeglass screwdriver I had laying around.
3. Radio shack did not have the resistor, so I got them from my neighbor who is a little nerdy that way. Try an electronics store or get them online if your radio shack doesn't have them.
4. From what my neighbor had, I used 4 transistors to get the right k0hm - a 22, two 22's paralleled, and a 4.7. Luckily me cool neighbor drew me a diagram on how to connect them together. This equaled around 37 k0hm, which for our climate is about right.
Thanks again to +Dan Weston for posting this. This was a huge $$ savings. We'll do the real fix using the other cool youtube video when it cools off a little and we have the time.
Hey Joey I have a 2013 so is the same color code for the wires you have the same? And do you have the wiring diagram?
My daughter's 2013 doesn't have the connectors behind the glove box. I looked! Needing help identifying where these connectors are located on a 2013 Fusion.
Tim D k
Where do you buy and what kind of resistor is that
eBay in where I ordered mine.
HI sir my car Hyundai trajet diesel 2.0 cdri and average temperature in my country 28 to 40 Celsius in summer witch resistor i use i mean the number ( 3 . 4 .6 . 8 ) k ohm
+ali alfzane I will have to do some research on this vehicle in order to provide you with any useful information.
Ok thank you i am waitting you
hey Dan I tried that quick fix on my wifes 2010 fusion sport and it doesn't seem to work . so I put my head under the dash on the driver side and leave the ac on turn the car off for a few seconds and turn it back on and I can hear some kind of a motor that turns on for a sec. at the same time this is happening the ac blows cold for about 3 to 5 seconds then I hear that motor thing again and it starts blowing really hot air . and all this with in a matter of no more than 10 seconds . any ideas what it can be ?
Does the AC compressor continue to run?
Dan Weston I believe it might shut off after it automatically switches to heat but then I'm not too sure . not sure where the ac compressor is located in this car
It appears to me the compressor is just below the Alternator.
What site do I bed to go to for buying the resistor? Not having luck finding one
+Robert Ruble
www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-47k-ohm-1-4-watt-carbon-film-resistor-5-pack
Dan Weston ty
I have a 2006 3.0L fusion. I have tried using a 33 k resistor for this fix to no avail :( the compressor still will not turn on. Could I need a 37 k resistor or higher or would that not make a difference?
+Stephanie West
It will not make a difference. Does your car have automatic Climate Control (2 knobs vs 3 knobs)?
It has a temp knob, a fan control knob and a knob to control which vents it comes out so 3.
Then you have another issue. Have you checked the basics first? Does the system have a proper charge? Was the compressor cycling more often than normal prior to your issue? If you have a proper charge on the system and it is not running, unplug the low pressure switch and jumper the 2 connections to see if the compressor will turn on. You will need to do some trouble shooting to find the problem.
My dad did this on his Mercury Milan and I just wanted to put up some notes:
This only worked once. He buttoned it up and tried it out, then parked the car. The next day it didn't work. Not sure why, or if the Milan is somehow different than the Fusion, but this was only temporary for him.
He bought the sensor and at refrigerator temps the sensor was 46K ohms, so you've go the right resistance using the 47k ohm resistor. Room temp the resistor was 26k ohm.
One question; why are you suggesting to hook the terminals back into the connector after the resistor install? Isn't the point of the resistor to replicate the sensor? I told my dad to take his back apart and just leave the wire terminals out of the connector so it's just the 47k ohm resistor and nothing else. I'm hoping his issue was the sensor is now throwing some random resistance to the computer because the sensor is still partially working somehow.
When you did the repair did you have to disconnect the battery or any fuses?
+robert reed
No need to pull fuses or disconnect the battery. This circuit is only powered when the key is in the run position.
Thank you for this video. I pulled the plug and there is nothing in the 3rd slot just the 4th. Mine is a 2011 ford fusion. Will this work with that model year? Thanks in advance
Hello have you figured out which slots? thanks!
Did you guys figure which slots?
Is there a workaround for a 2014 Fusion? Thx!
gibsonkal did it work for your fusion
What size resistor did u use?
I used, 47K Ohm 1/4-Watt Carbon Film Resistor (5-Pack) # 2160258, on the temporary fix in this video.
Hi Dan I've got a 2010 Mercury Milan after looking behind the glove box to the left plug in harness there is also no third wire will the 13 and 15 pin apply to my car also? Do I have to wait to do this at a certain temperature? Thanks for your help your video is very informative Steve
Yes it will. These are the same cars with just a few different cosmetic changes.
Thanks you have helped me with this aggravation twice I have gone to Mountain View Ford Dealership and they keep saying they can't find nothing wrong with the ac. Right! It don't blow cold air just hot every once in a while it blew cold ac and then extremely hot. Thanks again for answering my reply have a good one! Steve
Your welcome!
Hey Dan, thanks for the informative video. My brother and I tried this on my 2010 Ford Fusion and you can hear the compressor kick on for a few seconds when you first start the car but then it just stops. Do you know what could be causing that?
did you ever figure out what the problem was? currently having the same problem
it's fix my problem thanks man 👌
I have a 2012 fusion se it does not have duel climate it also does not have a wire in the 3 spot is there a way to fix this
I have not forgotten about you. I have been terribly busy.
Well, the wires you need are Violet/Brown (pin 13) and Gray/Blue (pin 15) on the same connector.
I will but do you have Automatic Climate Control?
Have a 2010 fusion se there's no 3rd wire in the slot
which wires would I use to do the resister fix
A watcher posted a summary that should answer your questions.
Joey Ambrose wrote;
I used this hack and it worked perfectly. Here are a few observations/notes:
1. Our car is a 2011 Ford Fusion, and there was no wire in #3 slot. I dug through the comments and used +Dan Weston's note below and to find the right wires: "Well, the wires you need are Violet/Brown (pin 13) and Gray/Blue (pin 15) on the same connector. "
2. To get the wires out of the plug, I used an eyeglass screwdriver I had laying around.
3. Radio shack did not have the resistor, so I got them from my neighbor who is a little nerdy that way. Try an electronics store or get them online if your radio shack doesn't have them.
4. From what my neighbor had, I used 4 transistors to get the right k0hm - a 22, two 22's paralleled, and a 4.7. Luckily me cool neighbor drew me a diagram on how to connect them together. This equaled around 37 k0hm, which for our climate is about right.
Thanks again to +Dan Weston for posting this. This was a huge $$ savings. We'll do the real fix using the other cool youtube video when it cools off a little and we have the time.
Hey Dan question the blue connector what is it called? Or the silver lead at the end of the wire? I tried to get to it but the wire cut and I need to replace the silver lead. Just can't find it.
My first thought and easiest, is to go to a salvage yard and remove the pin from another car and cut the wire with plenty of length so you can splice it in. The connector on the wire is crimped on and I am unaware of a proper tool to crimp factory items without deforming it.