ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ก.ค. 2024
- Welcome to the last episode of my HBM lathe rebuild series.
Today we're going to replace the 3-jaw chuck with a 6-jaw, rebuild the tailstock and have a look into a problem I run into in the early stages of the rebuild.
After that we'll go through the necessary adjustments to align the lathe so that a straight part can be cut. This includes the tailstock alignment.
The video ends with a quick word about the rebuild and the future of the channel.
STL models available here: www.nbrworks.com/my-hbm-250-l...
Timestamps:
00:00 Intro
00:26 A test bar that didn't help
01:58 Replacing the 3-jaw chuck with a 6-jaw
04:18 3D printed parts
05:37 First chips!
07:15 Tailstock rebuild
08:53 Lathe alignments
11:29 Tailstock alignment
12:18 The thread dial indicator
13:25 Lathe rebuild conclusion
13:50 TH-cam and what will come next
Lathe: HBM 250x550 Profi Vario
Lathe rebuild playlist- • HBM 250x550 lathe rebuild
#machining #lathe #diy - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
awesome videos, the voiceover is great, much better than being blasted with music and i love having everything explained what and why your doing. awesome videos mate, keep them coming!!!
Sure! Thanks!
You are a natural learner on the lathe. Good job.
Blimey, that issue with the threading dial could have really caused a bit of damage if you didn't pick up on it. Great video, looking forward to any future projects
Hi @artisanmakes, nice to see you here. One of the first times I turned on the lathe, I had the gauge crashing with the leadscrew - teeth against teeth. I was really lucky nothing was broken.
I think the hole for the thread dial should be located a few milimetres down, but somehow the machine was shipped like this. If I remember correctly, there's a thread on one of the forums where someone was breaking thread gauges on a Warco lathe because of this exact problem. I'm not sure how they fixed it, but the longer shaft worked really well for me. Having said that, I normally don't have the gauge running on leadscrew, only engage it if I need to use it (no need to create unnecessary wear). Cheers
For never using a lathe your first part and previous tedious endeavors to improve the lashes accuracy are well thought out.
Good work. You are a very methodical dude, which results in your machines being clean and functional. I’ve enjoyed the couple of videos I’ve seen so have subscribed. Looking forward to you adding a bigger motor with VFD, and electronic Lead screw! 😀
Hi Pauly, thanks! Glad you have enjoyed, I have other projects coming up. Cheers!
Great Video. Well done. Looking forward to seeing more.
Great little series. Thank you for sharing
Looking forward to more videos, they are pretty good and entertaining.
Right on man good for you. I'm liking what I'm seeing . Keep it up.
another great video, some motivation for me to finally set my lathe up properly.. ive just lived with the taper it turns and sand it out when it matters 😆
Hi Simon! If the tapers are significant, it's worth doing the alignment - especially if you work on long parts. Mine needed a small re-adjustment after 1 year of use. Good luck with yours!
Absolutely no problem with your voiceover. You speak very well. I'm surprised that you went though so much effort without making anything during that time. To me it is like a kid being able to open a present and then not being able to play with the toy.
Thanks Tina. It's all about the journey 😅
I want to thank you for all of your videos. I am looking into either buying a Lathe or a Milling machine. This is a big investment for me, so I am doing months of research.
In the USA there are 3 Commonly resold Chinese lathes. The Sieg, which I think is the garbage lathe you had before, Grizzly, which I think is just a variation of the Sieg, and the Weiss, which is a more expensive brand, that is also known to be resold by a premium brand here Precision Matthews.
I believe your model is the same as the Weiss WBL250F. Current prices from Weiss are 2300 USD. They boast a lot, but have very little specifications listed, and there are very few people who have teardowns and videos of this lathe.
This is also the same model that BlondiHacks uses (the PM1022V which is built by Weiss as a customized version of the WBL250F).
While it's disappointing that a lathe that costs so much would need so much work right out of the box, it's also the best looking mini lathe of it's price range.
I look forward to seeing future modifications and enhancements (make a stand!). And while some others have covered topics like levelling, I hope that you can cover those basics for this particular model and setup.
Personally since I'm looking at getting a mill or a lathe, I'm wondering how much I can get by with adding a milling attachment to this particular lathe. Being able to mill up the the travel of the cross slide would manage 70% of my projects, but having a lathe would manage 80% of my projects, so at minimum with a milling attachment, I could complete 56% of my projects on the lathe.
Hi Stephanie. Thanks for reaching out. Looks like you've done a good research.
Quinn's lathe and mine are almost the 'same' lathe. And the current version of them should be the Weiss WBL250F, yes.
I say almost because while the basis seems to be the same, they have a couple of differences. Mine doesn't have a brushless motor (I believe the PM lathe does) and doesn't have the camlock system for the chuck - those might be reseller customizations.
While I've taken mine apart, I don't think you (or anyone) should do the same. A good clean up and a general check up of all the fasteners, tolerances and alignments should be enough to get anyone going, specially if you buy a good machine from the start. I had a first bad experience, hence being overly cautious with the second.
I've read/seen nothing but very good things from Precision Matthews, including their support, so if I was looking to buy one of these machines in the US, and I could afford it, I would buy from them. I think buying a cheaper machine that will let you down from the start, is a big mistake. Buy the best and bigger machine you can afford (and you are sure to cover your needs), you will not regret it.
As for modifications on mine, I have some planned. I wish I had more free time and would do so much more! I want to make the stand, that is the biggest improvement I can make for the lathe. Only... before that stand, I need another stand for the mill. At the moment I don't even have the mill bolted down and both machines are in separate rooms, so everytime I want to record something, I have to move all my camera gear, lights, vacuum cleaner, etc. It's such a pain! I have one big challenge to address in those stands, I'll cover them when I make the video. Then I need to add a DRO and power feeds to the mill. That z-axis kills me 😀Oh, so many things to do!
Finally, combo (lathe + mill) machines. I'm not really familiar with them, but I had to be very sure of my needs to buy one. The thing is, today it's enough. What about tomorrow? It really depends on your needs and how you foresee your work evolve in the future. For instance, if a combo machine adds "just a fraction of the price of a mill" to the lathe price, and if later you can remove the column (mill attachment) and buy a proper mill, that might be enough to get you covered for a while for less money and space taken. And in the end you'll have a proper mill and lathe. Might be an option 😀
10:33 - Excellent explanation on that You've done a lot of work on this. I don't think I'll be able to fix mine, might as well buy a lathe that is completely well engineered and buy a used quality branded lathe.
on the wobbly runout, try taking some 1000 grit emery paper, wrap it around the checking tool, and spray with wd40, then turn lathe on and slowly insert it, use the tool to help sand the channel angle. i suspect you have some burs and such stick in it.
Hi Mike, thanks. If you're referring to the test bar I have a full video about that. Here is the link: th-cam.com/video/ivI8g2TINXw/w-d-xo.html
That 3-D printed part to drive the compound screw looks awesome. Is it available on one of the model sharing sites?
Hi, you can download it here (scroll to the bottom): www.nbrworks.com/my-hbm-250-lathe/
@5:52 surely you mean "this was my very first time using this lathe", and not "a lathe" right? Else there are a lot of questions to be asked. Only a manual lathe operator would know the value of power compound feeding with a power drill :) You clearly have a professional background in machining though, that is obvious. Looking forward to seeing your channel grow.
Thanks, that's quite a compliment! But actually was my first time using any lathe. I was aware of the theory, but not the practice... and the practice is much more fun! My daily job has nothing to do with getting my hands dirty! 🙃
Some interesting findings and fixes in the short series. I have a very similar lathe also from HBM, its the 250G, same dimentions etc but with a gearbox instead of variable speed, I got the gearbox version as at the time many were having problems with the variable speed motors and control board. Anyway, to the point, can you share a link to the 6 jaw chuck? I've tried a few places but whats available will not fit my lathe, I have the same 3 bolt fixing as you but most are for 4 hole or screw on spindles. Looking forward to more videos(subscribed for more)
Hi, thanks! I can't find the link for the 6 jaw on the HBM website anymore. I think they sold out. Toolsidee.co.uk stills shows them (1339-E) but no stock available.
This is a 125mm (5 inch) chuck and you should be able to find it by looking for "K13-125". You'll find some selling on ebay and aliexpress (not sure of their quality).
If the spindle of your lathe is like mine, you'll always need a backplate for the chucks - if you look closer, I use one which is the original one from the 3 jaw that came with the lathe. You can either make that backplate or buy one.
For my 5C chuck I have bought a backplate from arceurotrade (part number "040-060-11500") and have to say it was very good. Surprisingly parallel faces. They have a 95mm register for the spindle and 108mm for the chuck. In my case I had to drill and tap the holes for the 5C chuck because the bolts come from the front; but in the case of a 6 jaw, I don't think you need to do any changes. Hope this helps. Thanks
well, I’ve dismantled the head and removed the main bearings, and the metal filings and dirt and what looks like Marmite, but is probably ‘grease’ and I have to say that my lathe makes yours look like a Swiss watch! I’ve now made the Mill videos public (took a while to delete all the swear words) now working on the lathe ones. now working on the lathe ones. Not up to your standards but they may be of use to someone looking to buy one of these machines.
Thanks for sharing! I have seen some of the videos, your sigh at the end of the mill pt3 says it all 😄 I will be watching the rest of them (also subscribed to your channel).
The paint orange peel effect is something I couldn't avoid on my lathe as well. I have dealt with that in the past, when I restored a car, but had different conditions where I could get better paint work done. This time I was spraying the parts on the floor, down on my knees in an improvised dark booth. I was a bit disappointed with the result, but can't ask for more given the conditions. Once again, thanks for posting, I'm enjoying watching them.
I have binged watched your videos yesterday. Nice work you're doing and I like your attention to detail. Your lathe sounds quieter than mine (just like my mill with the brushless motor). It seems both out lathes are very similar but I may have had just a little bit luckier than you as some parts were better from the start. Please keep posting!
How does this…and the other videos in this series…have 34K likes, but only a few thousand views?
That's odd! When I open this video I see 267 likes. That has to be some kind of a glitch. If you open the video in an incognito window on your browser, do you still see 34k?
Now it shows 4K likes…i guess its a youtube glitch im experiencing.
By the way… You make great videos… When are you gonna drop another one?
Hi. Thanks. I published one a week ago and I'm starting a new project this week. It's going to be a bigger one, so it might take a couple of weeks! Cheers
Well if I had to take a guess what the proble m might be I'd say a lot of it has to do with that warped piece of random barstock you are using. And the rest of the problem I's probably because the lack of preload applied to those more than likely cheap headstock bearings. No way to know for sure just by watching a video.
The bearings were replaced (Part 1 of the rebuild). What do you mean by warped piece of random barstock? Where do you see that in the video?
Hi. The DTI is swinging like that in real time? Very odd. Try another DTI! Is the test bar straight? You may need a surface plate and V blocks to check that. Is that paint on the bed under the headstock? If so clean it off, you need bare metal to metal contact. Are the bolts tight? Was the motor running or the chuck turning? If so first is the DTI securely mounted? If on the carriage is there any vertical movement in that as it traverses? If holding the test bar via a morse taper make sure all mating surfaces are spotless, any dirt at all will upset things. Maybe a loose spindle bearing or insufficient pre-load. Head not seated down properly? Easy to check for movement against the bed. Worse case and it's a cracked headstock or bed. I do hope not. Start by checking the DTI installation and then check each item in the chain individually moving forward from the headstock thinking carefully about which reference surface you are using. Best wishes.
Hi Bob, nice to see you're back. I think I have some answers to your questions, as I checked most of those things.
1) Yes, the DTI swings like that while the lathe is running - mind you, it's a tenths DTI (0.0001"). But again, sometimes, I get a perfect fit and have almost no runout (this is rare but has happened). Other times I have... 2 thousands, 3 thousands...
2) The test bar is straight, I will be showing that in the next video, exactly how you describe: surface plate, v-blocks and a surface gauge being pushed parallel to the bar. When I rebuilt the lathe I didn't have the surface plate yet.
3) The DTI was securily mounted, no doubt about that. Also, I tried this so many times.
4) No vertical movement on the carriage or cross-slide, anything really, I would even say those parts are a bit on the tight side.
5) The surfaces of both tapers are good and I blued them. The blueing shows very nicely all around the test bar. Having said this, my suspition is precisely the spindle taper being just a little off (angle too wide). And the test bar sometimes sits well and I got good readings... and other times it sits sideways and it's what you see in the video. It does lock really well and it's a pain to remove...
I've been thinking on how to confirm if the taper is off. Maybe setting my compound angle perfect (really perfect) and then check the taper with the dti? I can try that, but I think I need to go easy on the assumptions, as setting the compound angle, even using trigo (joe pie...) might leave room for the wrong conclusion.
6) The spindle bearings are perfect. I can hold a long bar in the chuck and push on it up and down. a DTI in the spindle nose shows 1, maybe 2 tenths of movement.
7) I believe the head sits correctly in the bed. And I trust there are no cracks in the head or the bed.
If we look at it, the lathe is fine and produces good parts. The only problem happens when I use the spindle taper. My dead center also shows runout. I'll be posting all of this in the next video. Thank you so much for your questions, they are all relevant!
How did you fit the 250-111 QCTP on the HBM top slide with post?
Hi Bernard. Have a look at the rebuild playlist and check "Part 2". Here is the link: th-cam.com/play/PLQmkDSE3SwYu6sWilKMYVBtqX7Vr8Qr-_.html
Any chance you’d wanna share the files for the 3d printed parts?
I can look into that. Give me a couple of days and I will respond here with a link.
I am interested in the 3D part files also. (Or if in Fusion 360).
I quite liked a number of your designs.
@@improvsax I've been working on the next video and haven't had the time to host the files somewhere. When I'll do that I'll leave a link here for anyone interested. Thanks
Hi, you can download the models here: www.nbrworks.com/my-hbm-250-lathe/
I can tell you without reservation that if you spent $50.00 US on a lathe test bar that banking on the accuracy of your spindle and the test bar is an exercise in futility. The company I work for sells CNC equipment of various brands. One A2-6 or A2-8 spindle test bar are each in the $1,000 range. They come in handy after operators crash machines. What you did is all you need, get the twist out of the bed, cut a part. Machine doesn't have to be level, but it needs to be straight. All the rest of it is just lack of attention to detail which is why you had to shim the tailstock body. It's a shame really; it takes just as long to make junk parts as it does to make good parts.
Hi Terry. Thanks for your comment, that's an interesting point of view!