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Nice work, although I am pretty sure that sintered bronze(oilite) bushes do not like being reamed. Reaming tends to smudge over/block up the oil holes/pores. they need to be machined with very sharp tooling. Beyond that I wish that everyone pursued accuracy like you do. Big thumbs up,

Thank you!

Those chips are dangerous. The solution is always to increase the feed rate, 0.3 mm/ rev is a good starting point and you can go much higher. This will also save time obviously. For a finish cut, leave about 0.3 mm radially (at least the amount of the insert's nose radius) and use a lower feed rate of about 0.1 mm/ rev. And please stay well clear of the machine especially with those long chips, once they wrap around the workpiece you can instantly get hurt very badly.

That's a great tool! If it's any help for welding something to a broken tap the surrounding metal can be covered in a protective paint for welding to prevent the metal being damaged by the welding (sometimes correction fluid for typewriters was used). "Broken Tap Extractor" or "Broken Tap Remover" tools are available down to M3 size for both 3 and 4 flute taps - have seen them sold inexpensively on eBay but not sure how good the quality of the steel is. I reckon the 4 flute version would be easy enough to make when needed using lathe then divider and slitting saw on mill - the 3 flute version maybe more difficult.

Cutting a taper precisely on a lathe is difficult and a tiny error in the taper angle can cause big problems - that got me thinking about how to resolve the situation. For very precise parallel holes we use a drill a little smaller than the finished hole then a reamer to shave off the small excess of metal and finally cut the hole to the exact dimensions needed. I got to thinking "Would that work for tapers?" and it turns out that it is possible to buy "Morse Taper Reamers" (or "Morsekegel Reibahle" in German) to finish the taper to precisely the angle required - they're fairly expensive but I think one of them would solve the problem and might come in useful in future. (I'm not old enough to know much about this but I think - from speaking to much older folk - that lathe headstock tapers were one of the last things to be standardised - with some European and US lathe manufacturers using in-house tapers until relatively recently 🙈) The problems that can be caused by tiny deviations in the taper are so bad that there are special plastic tools with flet pads to clean out tapers and make sure that no tiny particles of dust or swarf are there that could mess up the functioning of the taper.

Good video editing but no machining skills

Это не дешевые пластинки, это просто слишком низкая подача. Вы работаете твердым сплавом в режиме HSS резца. Увеличьте подачу и обороты, и вы получите стружку-чипсы, а не спираль. Я на дешевых китайских пластинках стоимостью 0,5$ за штуку прекрасно добиваюсь деления стружки. Желательна также подача смазочно-охлаждающей жидкости,но это грязь вокруг, поэтому я жертвую стойкостью пластинки, ее стоимость вполне себя оправдывает.

@35:11. I was worried. You are now separate from the animals

Did i misss how the wobble was fixed?

nice video :) by the way, what is your milling machine ?

Maybe I didn't understand the arbor design, but if it is expanding only on one side, how much contact it gives with the bore? Seems the bore will only be griped by a small portion at the front, which might get the part not to be aligned properly. Again maybe I didn't understand how the arbor works.

I've just found your Channel & subscribed, very good Video.

Did Imiss what these carbs are for?

I would have kept the old bushes and turned 2 o ring grooves on the shaft. Do you have the flexible link to join the shafts? It would have been a good idea to keep the pistons and dashpots that were matched to the carb bodies together.

Maybe with the machined base the bores were better aligned between both clamping setups, so when reamed the reamer isn't trying to center on the second bore causing it to make a curved cut? Perhaps have an internal fixture with a guide/support bore for the reamer, then align the boring operations to that guide so when reaming the second hole the guide supports the reamer stopping it from trying to follow the hole? Doesn't help on the first bore though, maybe a long piloted reamer so the holes are reamed to the guide?

Wow,,those will be some fine SU .

Enjoy the video. Try to move the mic so it doesn’t pickup your heavy breathing, it’s very distracting.

Very nice

awesome videos, the voiceover is great, much better than being blasted with music and i love having everything explained what and why your doing. awesome videos mate, keep them coming!!!

Deep cuts. High feed rates. Making custom fixturing and tooling. SU carbs reminding me of my young adulthood Sprite. BIG TIME Subbing to your channel!

Very nice work. I once repaired an Obsolete Marvel Schebler carburetor for the engine of my brother’s airplane engine. Was challenging to say the least. I miss making parts for his home built airplanes.When he called me, I knew it was going to be something interesting.

drill and tap pipe thread npt spit twice with band saw a pipe plug will expand the arbor

awesome work. new subscriber!

Great video. I have been doing exactly this for about 25 years now. I repair old engines and I have the same issues. I use two tapered cones and put them in both ends to self center. Like you said, flat but not surface plate flat.

There is a school of thought that a slightly convex face to the manifold would ensure a better seal around the inlet circumference as the flanges flexed courtesy of the paper seal. ie as the nuts are tightened, the a perfectly flat flange becomes concave.

great work again, thank you very much! 👍 why did you use such a long boring head to bore the bronce bushings and the chamfers...i would be afraid of chatter...although they came out great, so what : )

That was some nice machining, parts turned out well, far better than the original manufacturer ever considered possible. I am a little surprised you didn't radius all the internal sharp edges while you were in there with flex shaft grinder? Back in the day it was much more common to have sheet of emery paper on a flat surface to correct bow on flanges, exactly how you did it. Milling machines were a 'luxury' few shops had and cost at machine shops was far too high for majority of people. There were aftermarket kits for the bushings, just drill them out and hammer them in (then spend time with a file and emery cloth fixing the burrs). I imagine they have been out of production for 50 years or more by now though? You should have drilled holes at end of expansion slots, it would mean there is less material to flex. You could still do it but will need to use a center cutting end mill. Using Morse taper adapter as an extension for center may give more clearance but it's going to be very flexible when you have any side loads (as in turning) and probably reason for chatter? All in all, a very interesting video. Are you (or have you) done a video on rebuilding the SU carbs? I had them on my first car (1966 Rover)

Great video 👌🏻 Thank you

You've done an amazingly beautiful job of both the internal collet and the finished carburettor! ♥ The only reason that I can think of for the brass rod sticking is that I think a bushing and the part passing through it are usually made out of dissimilar metals - e.g. steel and bronze, etc. - it may be that making both from brasses that are similar may cause problems. I sometimes use adjustable reamers that can be adjusted by maybe c. 200 μm or 8 thou - that lets the reamer be adjusted to get exactly the sort of fit that I want. I've heard of a soft wood rod or plastic rod being turned to the right size then used with some grinding paste as a hone to very slightly increase the diameter of a reamed hole and give a surface finish which holds lubricating oil.

A very sharp well made documentation of a well thought out remedy, for a tricky repair / rebuild. Very enjoyable thank you!

Pretty sure all that spray is is developer for dye penetration testing.

Yikes...if you love to spend a ton of time turning relatively simple machining tasks into insanely complicated projects, then you'll love this channel!

Lot of work to flatten a bottom of a part that isn't a critical size. Sand paper would have been fine. Still great work , even if it was way overkill

I don't know how your channel escaped me for so long. I think your mix of tool making plus using said tool is perfect and this good balance might be unmatched on youtube. Thanks for the satisfying content.

Very clever.

A very thoughtful piece of work holding. If you intend to use the mandrel alot, have you considered drilling a hole at the root of the slits? If you are concerned with fatigue it would be a good idea. Thanks for the video.

you need to feed faster to break those chips

Excellent job, a master.

Great Work and nicely presented!

Very nicely done.

What is your native language? I always like learning new accents when traveling.

nice job ! cheers ben.

Fantastic mate!

Excellent work!

Como hobby uma maravilha mas fazer comercialmente inviável varias ferramentas que fabricou que nunca mais serão utilizadas faço este serviço em 30 min comercialmente , mas um otimo video para desenvolvimento de ferramentas especiais sucesso amigo me inscrevi pra aconpanhar suas tecnicas 👍👍👍

What kind of steel is that you’re working with? It seems to cut like butter 😍

I work with cutting edge CNC machines and have access to any tooling I could ever dream of, yet I rarely do works that are as interesting and well thought out as this. You certainly have a vision and a way of achieving the results you're after with the proper means, all with humble machines, and a good mix of home made tooling (and tool!). This is seriously impressive for anyone passionate about restoring carburetors, as well as hobby and professional machinists. But not only that, the video is filmed with great skill. It is so difficult to film machining because of various reasons, notably lighting of highly contrasted shiny metal parts, chip management, focus, and knowing that you usually can afford one take for each operation. All in all the video has a good pace and excellent sound. I feel like I'm watching This Old Tony again, without the dad jokes. Keep it up man

Very impressed with the way you machined these. Where did you find the lowered tool holder at 21:09 ? 21:09

31:24 I wonder if an 'oldham coupling' would be a good choice for this, unless it needs the 'give' and spring the metal can provide. But it just seems more built to cost. Also modern day 'spring couplings' like those used in 3d printers could have those properties and likely better concentricity.

Very nice work.