Chrysler Dodge 2.7 3.5 v6 mysterious rough idle CHARGER 300 MAGNUM - EXPLAINED & FIX
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ย. 2024
- If you own a Dodge / Chrysler vehicle with a 2.7 v6 engine that develops a mysterious rough idle with stalling, misfiring with illuminated check engine light and you've done trouble shooting, replaced parts or have taken it to a shop and the problem still exists TRY THIS FIX FIRST!! This 2010 Dodge Charger was owned by a customer at the time this video was made. She had taken it to several mechanics, spent a lot of money trying to figure out what it was. Parts were replaced but she insisted on having me do a tune up. In the process I removed the throttle body to clean and had a suspicion that the clip was broken as I had discovered this on other Dodge/Chrysler vehicles with the 2.7. I WAS GETTING A TOTAL OF 6 DIFFERENT TROUBLE CODES each time I tested the clips.
![[Detailed] Chrysler 300 2.7 Diagnose and Repair missfire (P0300, P0302, P0303, P0202, P0203)](/img/n.gif)
This video has helped quite a few people and if it has helped you and you would like to show my channel some love, throw a little something my way click on my page description and hit that PayPal donate or Buy me a Coffee link 👍🏽 😊 I will be giving shoutouts to all that donate to my channel in my upcoming videos…. As always a Big thanks from WarPony Auto👊🏽💯
I direct monetized link to the repair part would have made us both happy.
@@user-qx1wl2um2k I am signed up for monetization but not enough views, likes, shares etc!!
I replaced my ECU
Replaced my throttle body and sensor
Replaced my hoses
And it was this all along. God bless you man
👊🏽💯 You are welcome!
Hola, Nicolás, por favor me puedes explicar cómo lo solucionaste? Te lo agradecería mucho.
Wow, many blessings my brother. You help me fix my problem to my wife's car. 06 dodge charger 3.5. You are a blessing from the sky.
Glad I could be of some help 👍🏽
I'm trying to fix the same year and engine. Autozone says there's not an IAC for this car. Is that what u replaced?
bro i can’t believe this was actually my problem the entire time . thank you so much man . your a blessing . happy holidays 💪🏾
Jordan Curry You are welcome. I see this problem a lot. One of my customers is fighting with a dealership to get back all the money they spent with them trying to chase this problem down. It happens in the 300, Magnum and in the older Intrepid.
@36 purp what is the name the clip or part that he just replaced
Same bro.
I was replacing my 05 magnum valve cover yesterday and didn’t get the main vacuum line into throttle body. Shit was running rough and I was so confused because I thought everything was plugged in. Gave that metal line a extra push and it went in how it originally was and runs like a charm
Also had flashing throttle light
Great tip... I have a 03 astro. The block temp sensor plastic connector broke. It was hanging on. It would not start, idle rough etc. I thought it was the fuel pump or bad gas.. I glued it on. Only used high temp permatex on outside of connector to avoid getting it into the connections..
Glad u showed this most mechanics and auto shop dont even kno that u can check yo own transmission fluid they always say u GOTTA take it to the dealer 😂😂no u dnt chargers jus dnt have a dipsticks and the cap says dealer ship use only nope fixed and filled my own transmission problems and now I can fix this problem thanks
I’m an independent mechanic that won’t send anyone to the dealer unless it’s absolutely needed. Unfortunately there are some things and indie like me can’t do only because I can’t read dealer only codes on some makes and models. DIY learning is the best way to know your vehicle is being well maintained. 👍🏽
This was exactly my problem, brought idle rpms back down to normal just by pushing the plug all the way in.
Thanks!
P. Tilly You are %💯 Welcome my friend!! 👍🏽
P. Tilly Please subscribe and share 🙏🏽
My se magnum tends to stall when I'm at a red light while running my AC , I wonder if this might be what's wrong with mines
I just started having this issue after changing coil packs, spark plugs, and fuel injectors. Maybe, I didn't get mine completely clicked in. Thanks man
Did this work for you? I did these exact changes on a 2009 dodge charger 3.5L an now I’m having the exact same problem, the rough idle and shaking is so bad that I cant even drive the car or let it run longer than 30 seconds to check the engine
It did, but I also went ahead and a new sensor as well
Could you tell me what that sensor is called exactly, Im going to try the same thing
Map sensor
I have a mysterious miss. After my 2010 300 heats up, it will get a miss if I turn off and restart the engine. It will run rough for as long as I drive it until I turn off the engine and let it cool. I can have the engine run for hours and it wont run rough ever if I dont turn it off.
Same u ever fix that?
I had a similar problem when my car would run to operating temp and I shut it off it would not start back up until ithe car completely cooled off changed my crank sensor and it fixed my problem hope this helps
@@bimmergang2035 any news? Thanks
Egr valve
@@vemomediadigitalmarketing7912You think it’s the EGR valve?
The same to my problem how I fixed that problem charger light is blinking in my car, and mix firering too
I got this problem again
This is the biggest pain in Ass
Could it be a vacuum leak possibly
I have 2006 Dodge magnum 2.7
Stalls When Stop or at idle
Yeah, the metal EGR tube has a round rubber gasket that can work it’s way too far into the plastic intake housing and allosaurus to be pulled in around it if not placed back correctly. Get a quality Mopar rubber replacement gasket. The AC Delco and FRAM gaskets will eventually leak.
Me toooo
So why does the lightning bolt come on with the check engine light but soon as I shut the car off and turn it back on the lightning bolt turns off but I don't lose no power when I push on the gas my car still goes no problem the lightning bolt keeps coming on then my car resets by itself
Man, I couldn’t tell you in that one without seeing it myself. That is weird….I would first assume an electrical issue. 🤔
I’m having a similar issue when accelerating after turning a corner , I would loose power check engine light will flash on (code 304) I’ve already changed spark plug and coil on cylinder cleared code drive for about 2 weeks no issue then started happening again 90% of the time when I’m turning a corner 10% on accelerating to overtake . Now I’m guessing throttle body , injector or vacuum leak, any insight ?
We had those symptoms on a weak fuel pump as well as dirty and/or failing throttle body but start simple first…check wiring and vacuum leaks you’d be surprised how many problems both of those issues cause these engines.
I got p3730 powertrain
P2314 ignition coil secondary circuit
P061C powertrain wat does it mean
Hi My 2006 charger have low arch when trying to start, I’ve switched coils and still low. Also I changed crank and cam sensors and it still will not start: help me plz
Try the intake manifold runner valve
And it could be that u jumped timming ur timming belt could be Stretched and need replaced
My 06 started running rough, then got to the point it would die when turning a corner. I have replaced fuel pump(didn’t help), all 4 O2 sensors (didn’t change anything), all new plugs(no change), new throttle position sensor (still does the same thing) I’m sad
In your case you would want an experienced mechanic to check your intake manifold gaskets and vacuum hoses. You can also have your alternator/charging system checked at one of your local parts stores. Most offer OBDII scanning. 👍🏽
I'm starting to wonder if is my alternator
I have a 2006 dodge magnum 2.7 with
234 thousand miles on it,,,I'm the second owner,,,,it looks like the original alternator,,,,most parts have replaced prior,,,then it started acting up again
Following this myself mines does the same at a red light I think it's a vacuum leak imma change the intake spray brake cleaner on your throttle ,intake etc that's how u find the leak
So I have code for cylinder 5 misfire did spark plug an coil still misfire but now the lighting bolt came on dnt go past 30
You may have to go deeper and have the EGR tube rubber seal changed in the back of the upper intake manifold or new upper body brake manifold gaskets. The next step in the process of elimination after that would be to connect the scan tool and read the #5 cylinder while it’s running. Check the fuel injector to be sure that it is working, check the wiring on both the coil and the injector. If none of those are successful you will want to find a mechanic that can do a compression test of the #5 cylinder to see if it could be deeper in the cylinder head but that’s the very last resort. Be sure that the plug on the throttle body is plugged in good and the air cleaner assembly clamps are nice and tight.
You may also want to have your fuel pressure checked.
Thanksgiving you! My car has been one thing after another after a tune up! This is the last thing I need to do 😅
Hey I have a 2006 Dodge charger 3.5 L and sometimes when I let it run it goes into limp mode could this be the problem?
i have no codes... i do have a question what does your car idle at?
It was a customers car at the time. I did purchase it, repair and resold it a couple months later but it idled at just under 700rpm, around 660.
What’s the name of the part to replace?
mine has an idle problem but it loses power. could this b the problem to? or is it just if u idle to high?
That could be a few things 🤔 Have your fuel pressure checked. It can be hard to diagnose these issues especially when they do not trip the CEL.
@@WarPonyAuto ya fuel pumps my next project. thanks for the reply man
Hey man i had a peddle commander on my dodge gt charger 2019 it was working good for a couple months one day i gassed it to hard cause i was chasing some lasy that hit me and it made me go limp mode since then i unplugged the peddel commander and my car drives normal but when i gas it or take off at a light or take offf at a corner its holds back and turns on the engine light after a day the engine light goes away but happens again when i gas it what do u think i should do?
What’s the best way to rig that clip instead of replacing the whole plug?
The best way I found was to put a drop of supper glue on the the out edge o the clip and push the plug all the way on, or if the locking tab is partially broken slid the plug all the way on and then slide a popsicle stick on top of the clip so that the locking clip locks onto the male plug on the throttle body, if that makes sense. You can see how I did it in the video.
I have a 2005 dodge Magnum 2.7 v6 and I'm getting codes showing up as spark plugs I bought new spark plugs and a coils and mechanic is coming this morning should I mention this to him? I need my car fixed should I purchase the part your talking about also? How can I test it? Thanks
I'm sorry I did not see this when you posted it. I would have definitely mentioned to him. I do not have to replace them often. I wedge them or put a drop of super glue at the edge and zip tie it together if the customers do not want to replace them. It will hold. The better method is to clip a 1/8 section of Popsicle stick and wedge it under the locking clip which locks the clip into place. If you opt to change it they will break again. I had one break 3 times in less than 6 months before just telling the customer that it would be best to wedge the clip so that it stays locked. Hasn't had an issue yet.
good video brother. I have a 2016 chrysler 300. If i don't use it for a few hours or overnight, and try to star the car, it will crank but wont start. But if i open the key for 3 seconds before starting, it will start instantly. Seema like the feeding of gas to the engine is delayed. Do you know what could it be?
Replace the fuel sender unit which it's the one in the passenger side altought if you had never replaced the fuel pump which is the other one located on the passenger driver is not bad idea to replace it too
It could be faulty injectors low fuel pressure/potentially failing fuel pump. It could also be a few other issues as well. A hood mechanic with an in depth scan tool can pin point it for you. 👍🏽
Me gustaría que alguien me diga donde va el enfriador de aceite en el motor 2,7.litros dodge charger 2010 o que comparta el manual de servicio, se esta fugando agua al aceite gracias
I’m certain that your problem was actually a bad leaking water pump gasket and/OR bad water pump?! Sorry I didn’t get your comment sooner but I’m sure your problem is the one I listed in my reply.
I have been having issues with my 07 turning over for a few seconds and then cutting off, every time the exact same amount of time when I turn it over. And it just dies, no rough turn over or idle just *starts . . . dies* After a few tries it won't turn over at all and just has the lighting bolt stuck on the dash. No other indicator lights, not even the engine light, just the bolt. I am getting ready to buy a new throttle body but if you have any other suggestions, I could really save the money right now since things are kinda tight at the moment.
That’s an electronic throttle issue. The first thing you would want to try is to clean and reset the throttle body. Clean it good then disconnect the battery if you don’t have a scanner or have access to one. Make sure you plug the throttle body wiring harness all the way into the throttle body and it’s not slipping off like stated in this video. Check your battery voltage, clean battery cables etc to rule that out. If that doesn’t work then replace the throttle body (Check Amazon) You can get throttle body / MAS cleaner at Walmart or any auto parts store. Manually open the throttle body and clean it really good. When they are really dirty it can restrict air flow but what you are experiencing is typical of a failed throttle body.
@@WarPonyAuto I am having the same problem with my car
@@WarPonyAuto how do I fix it
@@hopearonson1034 It takes a proper diagnosis but if your is doing the same try cleaning the throttle body. Usually this means the throttle body needs to be reset or replaced.
My 08 dodge charger 2.7l "R" made it over 230k miles before failure...but yea, what also sucks for the engine design is having water pump in with the timing set..bad decision..all internal..
What type gas do you use in ya charger I was wondering will 89 octane damage engine
So can this be replaced if broke ?
Yeah. You can replace it with a new plug/clip. Partsgeek and 1A Auto.
Hey. My car does this after driving a little while , but it doesn't leave a check engine light. It just goes into limpmode. It the 07 dodge magnum SXT
Going through this now and the code read u0100, lack of power connection. It said my ecm/pcm was bad so i took it to my electrician mechanic and they told me it was a bad 02 sensor and my abs
Change your O2 sensors and see if that helps.
This was my problem thank you so much
No problem. Glad my video helped you 👍🏽 Please share, like a subscribe.
I have a 5.7 2010 Dodge Charger and I noticed the high idle between park and neutral. And my dash lights comes on and off and ac not working. Also the battery dies so I have to jump it off to start it up then goes back to the high idlling. Is this this same issue possibly????
That sounds like other electrical issues like a bad battery and/or bad alternator.
@@WarPonyAuto ok so now my car is experiencing a low idle now. When I slow down at a light while it’s in drive it seems to drop at 500 rpms and stays there. The car never shut up off or anything “yet” and it seems to kinda struggle hitting 60 or 70 when I step on it. What could that be???
@@WarPonyAuto I also have 3 codes with check engine light.. P0073 P0038 P0462
@@jovontegraham9078 just going by what I’m reading it’s tuff to say but you may have a bad IAC motor (idle air control) in other words the throttle body may be really dirty or fluttering as it may be on the verge of failing. Find a good mechanic or shop in your area and ask them if they can check the throttle body.
@@WarPonyAuto ok thanks
just bought a 2011 and its having a hard time at 177xxx miles just wanted to ask what issues your commonly running into around your miles of 192xxx in the vid
Same here
I’m sorry I missed your question. It can happen anywhere from 30k miles on up. I believe this dodge had 197k miles and only had this issue. The customer brought it to me for a tuneup thinking that is what the issue was. I did the tuneup and had an idea that maybe this Charger had the issue I point out in the vid. I actually ended up buying this Charger a year later and putting a new timing chain kit with new water pump in it. I did a lot of other repairs and customizing to it before reselling it. As far as I know it’s running great at about 285k on it now 👍🏽
what codes were being thrown? im about to buy my son one and i think this is the issue. p0300, p0344, p0340?
P0300 is one of the codes stored with this situation in the video, among 3-4 others but your problem, IF it’s a 2.7 V6, it sounds more like a stretched timing chain and/or bad timing chain tensioner. If it’s a 3.5 v6 then it would be a stretched timing belt. You either should skip the purchase or find a mechanic and get a quote on a timing chain/timing belt replacement job. Those 3 codes are the main 3 that are stored when the timing is off. Now, if it recently had a water pump change both the 2.7 & 3.5 water pumps run off the timing chain and timing belt and it is recommended to put a new timing chain/belt kit with tensioner in while you have it all apart. Some mechanics will try to be cheap and reuse your timing components and they will fail. Typically the 2.7 ends up skipping time due to the crankshaft sprocket being worn down and the teeth don’t grab the chain well. They always end up jumping a few teeth. The 3.5 the belt stretches and timing will slightly be off. It doesn’t skip like the chain but it stretches way more like a worn rubber band. Of course I’m not there to assess it myself so it’s my best guess. Feel free to send more info.
@@WarPonyAuto Well i did buy it and we did a few minor things ourselves based off your video and a few others (cleaned and reset throttlebody, new egr tube gasket, changed plugs, changed camshaft sensor (or crank shaft, whatever one is up top). now itll idle smooth for about 3 mins, then itll drop to about 600 rpm, then sorta sputter but not go off. Driving it, i dont feel any misses, only when coming to an idle). I pulled a new plug and it was sorta of oily (more than i feel it should be) so do you think doing valve covers gaskets? It has 130k on it and when i pulled the plugs they were the original crudy and burnt, so Im thinkin the guy didnt do anything to it
@@TheRobbinbryson Yeah, try replacing the valve cover gaskets 👍🏽 Oil getting into the spark plug cavities is common with worn gaskets. Is the check engine light on?
@@WarPonyAuto it was, but it was p0456.. which I was told could be just gas cap
@@TheRobbinbryson With your idle being affected though I would check vent purge control valve on the charcoal canister IF you replace the gas cap and the codes comes back. Inspect your Evap line from the engine bay back to the fuel tank. It sounds like you are making your way around it and figuring things out. My Charger had low idle after changing the timing chain, tensioner & water pump. I changed the serpentine belt and belt tensioner and the idle went back to normal. I have seen, experienced the rubber seal on the fuel pump where it seats in the gas tank go bad and leak. Couldn’t tell by looking at it that it was bad but after changing it there was a noticeable difference and fuel pressure improved. These Chargers/Chrysler’s can be touchy.
Good information...... Thanks for sharing.
When you say clips what are you referring to cause my 2010 Dodge Charger is doing this every time I hit the gas my rpm goes high
The retainer clips on the Electrical plugs.
@@WarPonyAuto thanks
@@951boogie7 You’re welcome, my friend. 👍🏽 Be sure to like, share & sub. Thanks for watching.
Thanks dawg I appreciate you a lot for this
Where can I get the clip
1A auto or Partsgeek. 👍🏽
greatly appreciated. I have one of these piece of shit engines. I jumped the motor cuz the battery died and the car is giving off a rough idle has no power or lack of power I should say. it's doing exactly what you say without the damn codes or the dash lights. I'll check that part you mentioned to see if it happens to be it. many thanks
I do not like the 2.7!! It’s full of problems and it’s a gutless engine. I’ve had this happen, what you mention and for me all I had to do was reset the ECU even though the battery was dead. I could not tell you why this is but it fixed the issue. Smh
@@WarPonyAuto how do you reset
@@ET2carbon Plug the throttle body in completely then use a code scanner to clear the trouble codes, reset the ECU.
I JUST had this problem happen to one of my customers with a Dodge Caliber with a 4 cylinder engine. Different type of clip but same problem.
I have this engine on a 2009 dodge charger , my car shakes when im at a red light , or when i turn my car on , does any one know what this is ?
Check your engine mounts & transmission mount. If you do not have an illuminated check engine light and the mounts are good you may simply need a tuneup. Clean your throttle body as well. It could be several different issues but start with the basics. 👍🏽 If you need help you can find me on Facebook “WarPony Auto”. You can communicate with me there.
My Chrysler 300 is doing the same thing but not sure if it’s the pcm Ik there’s two sensors that are on the throttle body I’m wondering if the one on the side is causing the problem because the clip seems to be lose
Dodge/MOPAR/Chrysler electrical clips are known for failing. You can go to partsgeeks.com, A1 auto or ebay & Amazon to buy replacements.
What is the actual part you changed was it the throttle body or the plug thats connected to it that he was moving?
It’s pretty clear in all that I’ve stated… there wa nothing wrong with the throttle body! It’s the plug.harness that plugs INTO the throttle body. AS STATED in the vid 👍🏽
Oooh you might have just saved my butt, if not still good to know. Thanks for the video!
I'm about to change my rod bearings and main rod bearings maybe even a connecting rod and piston or 2 or all 6 maybe but shall see when I take the oil pan off and see the crank I may be able to sand it down I'm crossing my fingers for cheap fix I'm young and work fast food and can't afford a $1,300-3000 engine lol especially a dam V6 2.7L hell when I get my driver's license I can't even afford insurance lol as soon as I get insurance I gotta leave my job instantly and go the new one my friend got me but I'm waiting for car to be legal and running right first 🤞it a roofing job pays 2-4k a month and paid weekly would change my life lol but yeah I also have a thunder bolt light on my dash when I start the car but I thought it was rod knock because the engine clicks,starts rough and rattling but it sounds like it coming from the top of the block idk what it could be but I'm hoping this $40 set of rod bearings will fix it and then I'll have it looked at by a mechanic eventually but I'm not driving it till I take a look at the pistons and crankshaft a new crank shaft like $300 not a big deal but getting it out might be lmao 😂☠️ shall see crazy things is there is no lights on the dash no engine light or anything bad but it could also be I haven't ran the car long knowning about the issue from the dude I bought it from also the engine has too much oil in it I guess the dude thought that noise would be fixed by adding oil lol but the car wasn't smoking at all surprisingly but it also has the wrong dipstick lmao I'm looking at around $400-500 to replace/rebuild the engine that's already in the car lol I'm hoping this works I'm planning on
Replacing rod bearings and main rod bearings
Maybe crankshaft if it's beyond sanding repair lol like minor scratches can be fixed
May need new valves and lifters possibly I didn't include that in the estimate tho I don't think I need those
Is it ok to run 89 octane in V6 chargers
Yes. Just be sure to use injector cleaner at least once every 1-2 months.
what is the name the clip or part that you ordered because I can’t find the name of it
Same here
Throttle body connector
Where can i find this part?
I buy replacement plugs/clips through Partsgeek and 1A Auto. 👍🏽
I have brand new 19 charger v6 i bought in April 19 and mine has a slight shake. I feel line im moving when idiling. Thats the only issue. My dodge 19 hemi durango did same thing. Dealers say they cant find anything wrong. Would this apply to brand new vehicles?
Start with the process of elimination. Check the motor mounts and serpentine belt but with these vehicles being brand new those two issues are probably not your problem. You could try cleaning the throttle bodies, be sure your air filters aren't dirty or just replace them. One issue that I have found is that the newer Dodges (most newer vehicles) simply do nit like cheap gas. Regardless of what the manufacturer states do not use low octane fuel. Always pay the extra for high octane fuel. If these were zero mile vehicles when you bought them this would not apply but you can always do a tune up. And yes, make sure that your throttle body is plugged in, however, if it were not plugged in correctly you would have a lot more going on then just a shake at idle. As always it is tuff to diagnose a vehicle without having it in front of me. Hopefully these ideas will help. If the dealer can't find anything wrong you can always try a reputable shop in your area.
Same problem on my 2016 300 shakes the car at idle just enough to where you barely feel it but enough the be annoying. No codes on the dash. Did you ever find a fix?
@@dominick8648
Nope love the car smooth when driving but shake at idle or when stopped annoying as hell!
@@dominick8648 with yours being a 2016 change your serpentine belt and belt tensioner. Also check your harmonic balancer to be sure it isn’t separating. With the car running check the harmonic balancer. If it looks even a little off that could be your problem. A complete tuneup and fuel injector cleaner would eliminate the spark plugs, dirty fuel injectors being a problem.
@@WarPonyAuto already tried the fuel system cleaner same problem, I’ll check into what you told me thanks appreciate it
hello sir I want to ask. How many miles do you think this 3.5 engine can drive?
I’ve seen them get pretty high mileage, one as high at 340k miles.
My mechanic ut to much oil and it's acting like this . I have a Dodge magnum 2.7 do you think if I change the coils and sparks plugs and intake gasket do you think it would fix it .
It's drives and turns on after a couple tries now it's just started acting like this after a week of getting the oil change , it isn't driving the best sounds loud and a knocking noise
Also I stopped driving it once it started acting like this
What codes are stored?
did you get 0300 code at that time?
Multiple misfire DTC’s along with misfire DTCs for each cylinder and an MAF sensor code. ALL went away after fixing this problem.
How do u check for codes
Use an OBD2 code reader. You can buy cheap one at Walmart, Amazon, EBay or Harbor Freight.
I was thinking in buy Charger Rt 2019, u think is good idea ? Is reliable car ?
Tony MTA Yeah, they’re nice, dependable. Dodge has a decent warranty for all their new vehicles. 👍🏽
I will never buy a Chrysler junk car again. 3 years in junk
boricua4eva821 Thanks for sharing that. 👍🏽
boricua4eva821 thanks for help me ! I think I will buy camry better
@@watchmanexpert yeah get a Toyota. Chrysler's are mostly junk these days.
I have a Dodge Charger 08 2.7 codes are co344 P0340 po123
That’s a camshaft position sensor code and Throttle position sensor code. First I would check wiring then replace the camshaft position sensor, clear the codes, test drive and see if the TPS code comes back, if it does the TPS sensor should be replaced. Clear codes and test drive again. It may take a complete drive cycle to see whether the check engine light comes back on or not. That could be anywhere from a mile to 12 miles.
Yup just did it running perfectly nbs
I have a 2006 300, 2.7l. It fres up. Runs rouch for a few seconds then normal. Once it heats up and i try to restart. It will not stay running unless i press down the gas pedal and keep it pressed. As soon as i lift off the car dies.
Ive changed spark plugs, wires, injectors, inject rail, evap canaster, coil pacs, all sensors on engine, fuel pump, have changed all seals i can access.EGR valve. Getting the right fuel pressure.
I cannot for the life of me find the problem. There are no codes on dash.
Not sure whats going on i changed everything it could possibly be as discribed from others on youtube and google. Spent over 5K. Someone please help me narrow down this problem.
great helpful video 💯
My check engine light went off, but the ⚡ light is still on.
Reset it with an ODB2 code reader, or disconnect the battery for 15 min.
I've had a same issue last time. Thanks for the tip man. I was always like what the fuck is goin on
Glad my vid helped. Be sure to like, share and subscribe 👊🏽
Thanks for this video 🙌🙌
You are welcome. PLEASE don't forget to suscribe.
Thanks for the video find more and share 😀👌
What codes was it throwing?
Multiple misfire along with misfire DTC’s for each cylinder, along with a MAF sensor DTC.
It happened to my charger too I was all worried
Holy fuck mine did the same thing I get the red lighting bold. I haven't touched it yet it might be the problem.
Didn’t know they made a 2.5 charger in 2010
They didn't. They made a 2.7 L
Chrysler 2.7 v6
@@WarPonyAuto but why?
@@1pyroace1 I can’t tell you why. 🤷🏽♂️
I greatly appreciate this bro. Because I'm having that problem. I'm going to check it right now and see if it helps. I hope you see it on my channel if you would like to go check it out. Cuz I'm going to do a video because of the problem I'm having today Thanks again 💯💯
Sorry Bud. I’ve been busy working and haven’t had much time to get on TH-cam but I’ll check out your videos 👍🏽 Like, Share, subscribe and I’ll do the same.
Did it help u
Bro thank you 🙏
What is regular idle speed for 2.7
mine idles at 600rpm, feels low to me though.
550-650 Rpm’s is in the normal range of course there are various factors as to why an idle within the normal range may not “feel” right. Engine mounts, transmission mounts, fuel pressure, dirty throttle bodies and fuel systems, dirty MAS/air filter, and even bad/failing sensors can alter your engines performance just enough to not cause much of a difference in idle rpm’s but enough to “feel” that something isn’t right. Like a subscribe, stay tuned… I have a video coming up that explains this topic of rpms and how your vehicles idle may not feel right and maintenance that can be performed via the process of elimination method starting out with the easiest most obvious working towards the more complex problems. 👍🏽
Where is cylinder one in a 2007 Dodge Magnum right side or left
Amen
07 dodge charger 2.7 po301
That’s a cylinder #1 misfire. Try changing or swapping the spark plugs #1 & #2. If you get a p0302 then you know it’s a bad spark plug. If it still misfires and gives a p0301 then try swapping the coil with the #2 coil and if it gives you a p0302 then you know the coil is bad. If it still throws the p0301 code then it may be a deeper problem such as the cylinder head. You would then want to do a compression check.
I got a code PO174 and PO171 my car also run rough like that during idle and rpms go higher than expected
I’m having these exact two same codes!! 2009 challenger r/t with rough idle. Did you ever figure it out?
Man my car did the same thing with the idle control and then stop fireing
Idle air control issues can throw a lot of codes as it affects everything just about.
Thank you for this I was wondering y the monkey doo my charger was like that on the red light best video
Thanks bro! Please subscribe and check back often.
Actually that's the throttle position sensor no disrespect
I found a car dealer accepting my dodge.. bye bye!! Never more!
😂👍🏽👊🏽
Hey there I’m a female of course no idea what’s wrong but my codes keep saying cylinder 1 misfiring everything has been replaced so far I spent 500 dollars and now they told me I need a new pcm and flash and the dealer wants to charge me 700 something and then said if it’s not that I will need to pay diagnostic charge 🥵🥵 I just want someone who can really find the real problem before I spend anymore money that I don’t have to spend
😥
If everything has been replaced then I assume the spark plug and coil have been replaced? That’s the first step. Swap the coil and see if the misfire moves if it doesn’t then swap the spark plugs or buy a single spark plug and test it then. If all you are getting is a cylinder #1 misfire code and no other codes and everything has indeed been replaced then you want to follow the coil wires to the number one coil to be sure they are not frayed or grounding out, which does happen as the #1 cyl wires snake around a few areas where they can wear or get pinched. Other than that it’s tough to say what your problem could be. A bad ECU (computer) is one of the last things to check in the process of elimination method. Good luck to you. Sorry I didn’t answer sooner. I’ve been busy. 😊
Also, you may want to ask them if it’s not the intake manifold gaskets or a vacuum leak. The steel EGR tube has a small rubber gaskets that can wear out and all extra air in the through the EGR inlet hole that the EGR tube goes into the upper intake manifold. Extra air affects the #1 cylinder.
Yes they did replace the egr valve to and they said the intake manifold looked fine I will have someone check the wires because yes the only code now after all of that is still cylinder 1 but they all keep saying it has to be the pcm and I just don’t have that kind of money to dish out to the car company they call say Chrysler has to do it if it’s the pcm and they want 900
Desiree SaintRare Thats no good! Replacing the pcm can be done by buying a USED pcm, taking it to the dealership service department with your vehicles vin # and have it reflashed. You will also need your mileage just in case. Then you can have a shop install the pcm.
PO123 Po344 Po340
Those are camshaft and throttle position sensor codes. Check the wiring to both sensors, clear the codes, test drive then replace both sensors if CEL comes back on, codes persist.
They totaled my car for this
Damn! That's crazy. I had a Dodge "Tech" that I had to block because he accused me of telling people about this that the manufacturer knows b ut it's used as a ploy to get people to trade them in. They then fix them and resell or send them to the auction block, among many other ridiculous claims. smh I hope you subscribe and thanks fir the comment.
Abs light, esp/bas light, brake light, and a light that looks like a flashing lightning bolt. Google says it's the connection between the accelerator and the throttle, When the lightning bolt one comes on my car starts shaking super bad and I have to stop and turn my car off and on again, it'll go off for a bit and come back on. Idles fast. The only codes I can get are C121c
Abs torque request signal denied
U0126 abs lost communication w steering angle sensor
It's a 2005 chrysler 300
It sounds like you have a steering wheel protrusion issue. Then again it could be a bad SAS sensor (steering angle sensor). You will need to find a mechanic that has a scan tool that can also read/reset ABS codes. It could be several other issues as well but it would take a hands on diagnoses to know for sure.