I was honestly expecting you to say "Well, thats good but not good enough for me" and for you to turn a complete crankshaft from a single rod of metal.
As this video series is undoubtedly going to be the "Bible" for this little engine, I think you need to include the solid crank option for those willing to have a go✅ Is it not just as important to pin the big end journals as well? And finally, for those running on steam, how about attempting to make the world's smallest "Clupet" ring😂😂 I've got 2" ones on my engines and they come highly recommended by some steam enthusiasts.
That’s beautiful work Joe. When you enjoy doing something you get good at it and when you’re good at something you enjoy doing it. I enjoy watching you work, therefore I’m good at watching you work.
I'm fortunate to have the opportunity to learn a craft in my old age by putting together a dream backyard machine shop (I did start young). Hearing a master like Joe's thought process while he is working is a priceless teaching tool Thank you.
You go brother! No time like the present to get started. Lots of good used machines available. And it’s a pleasure to guys like Joe sharing experience.
Hi Joe, excellent job made to look really easy. Personally I would cut the pins flush as full size engines usually had forged cranks. Those old foundry men really knew their stuff!
Joe is right on the order. When you program a CNC part from scratch, you often have think order. That is where a good traditional machinist background helps. Not all CNC is push and go coding.
Hey Joe, the reason Stuart did not specify reducing the diameter of the crank rods is that you did not make it the way they intended. they intended you to assemble the webs onto the crankpins then have them a sliding fit onto a single piece shaft, loctite and pin them in place then machine away the parts of the main shaft between the webs, meaning that the crank mains would be naturally aligned. Your method is far more challenging from an alignment perspective, so huge kudos for getting it so good
Extended pins. Good choice, defines the hand crafted aspect. Adolescent years just outside Phoenix, last 10 years in AZ in Yuma, tell them “grey heat” folks “stick your head in an oven” as an appropriate response! And let’s not forget the upcoming monsoon effects. Whooooppppiiiieeeee. Great video, looking forward to seeing it finished and running
You could always put a pin through both journals vertically. When doing the crank for our locos, my Dad and I had the main crank go through the journals then machined out the piston rod throws.
I would prefer leaving the pins flush so that any future lateral movement of the pin would be easily visible upon inspection. Also, what happened to the Loctite?
As far as the position of the pins, there is nothing that says they must go through the center of the shaft. If you are worried about wall thickness, then offsetting the pins would give you more material around them. Another way you could have gone about putting the pins in, is through the bottom, or one long one going all the way through from the top. That last stunt would pin both the journal, and the crank in one shot.
When I saw that flat stock I flashed back 40 years when I blued, traced from template and cut out crank shafts from 2x4 bar stock for a man we called “Crankshaft Carl”. I believe the steel cranks were for replacing the cast cranks in Briggs engines for tractor pulling contests. After cutting with band saw and roughing on the South Bend, it went to the CNC for finishing before sending out to get hardened and ground. I made the counter weights from 4” round, cutting in half and milling pockets for fitting to crank, then socket head cap screw them to crank shaft.
Hi Joe, I've been following a lot of your work. The funny thing is that I bought the D10 engine about three years ago, but for different reasons I haven't done much yet. If everything goes well with the arrival of my retirement, I may be able to do it, and thanks for all the good videos
I agree with you Joe, the proud pins add an interesting feature and openly display how it was constructed. Lovely job, can't wait to see it all completed.
I’ve been looking at the Comal. We try and make it there once a year to float down the rivers. That Texas heat is nothing to play with. Hope you’re staying cool and keeping healthy!
Nice bike, and I'm not a bike guy either! I'd remove the ends of the pins so it resembles a forged and machined one piece crank. I was hoping you'd machine that bad boy from a solid piece of steel. Regards, Preso
Joe nice job neat and tidy Think how difficult it is on a three driver loco , 1 the frames have to be square and parallel , 2 the horns and the axle boxes have to be square and equal in dims. 3 now the difficult part three sets of wheels have to be quarters ( crank pins set at 90 degrees ) there time exactly , 4 now the acid test put it together and see if the connecting rods fit and it goes round . and yes I have built 5 loco's and all was fine ran and pulled the load of 20 adults , except one which to compound the problem was between the frames cranks ( 90 deg offset as in your job ) but with external connecting rods . look up the GWR 14xx class loco keep up the good work its always great to see how others solve the problems
At 28:20, a load would need torque. I wouldn't thin the main ends as much as the rod journal ends since reducing the radius also reduces the torque that can be transferred. I think about midway between the two as they are would be close to optimum. Another possibility would be to pin it from the end opposite the rod journal.
I grew up thinking of Texas as a dry, dusty place, probably from watching too many westerns. I was disabused of this notion the moment I stepped off the plane at DFW in the middle of summer.
Super work Joe and I really like that final Al jig for setting up the crank for pinning - nice. I wonder whether your reamer choices are what you had or whether you had to obtain some specially - so many tiny sizes! I like the finished pins as shown. Can't wait for assembly! :)
For turned parts, its easier to pick a reamer and turn the boss to fit after the hole is done. No special reamers needed. But...I do have quite a few at my disposal.
Thanks Joe - very instructional. I recently made a similar steam engine myself and found the crankshaft fabrication quite challenging. I was successful in the end, but would loved to have seen your video before attempting it so I could adopt your hints and techyniques. Would have made things a lot easier! 🙂
Wish I could send you some of our cool. 53-54 outside and 63 inside. Spring has ended so now we get a second winter until Fall when it gets hot. Such is "Summer" in the SF Bay Area. Seems like only yesterday you started on this engine! You make it look easy.
I was thinking that it would look good with the rod pins pinned as well but it still looks great & i am still loving your shop gems, At the moment our night time temp is around 7c (44.6f) & day time temps are around 12c (53.6f), I'm so over the cold & can't wait for the warmer weather...
Thanks for the great video Joe. Wife in Dallas this week 110-120 heat advisory. Ouch. I like the upper 70’s low 80’s here in Ohio thank you. Well done on the motorcycle Looks great
Clocking that crank seems like more work than eccentric lathe work (says the guy who's not running the machine). Personally I like the look of the proud pins, as if showing off each step of the process. Looking forward to the final assembly!
Nice job Joe .. when I've done similar crankshafts in the past I made all the journals a light slide fit and relied on the accuracy of my jig to keep everything aligned while the Loctite set .. I I prefer the pins left protruding.. I like to use taper pins on crankshaft with a thread on the small end and a nut to pull it all together with more loctite
You surprised me by, not making a one piece crankshaft..however, I think a nine piece crankshaft is quite a bit more challenging to make.Thanks for the great video.
Ive learnt so many tool holding techniques in this series of videos so far. Thanks Joe, really enjoying them. Really looking forward to seeing the finished result.
I like the pins sitting proud of the surface, I say keep em as is. Looking forward to seeing the Assembly and possibly a running video, thank you for uploading Joe. 👍👍
Rite Joe, my vote would be to keep the pins exposed I think it looks great, but your model your rules! Again great content and awesome knowlege gleaned. TFS, GB :)
fan is a necessity it hit 96 here today with NO wind and about 46 percent humidity this afternoon cool build my thot is leave the pins have fun and stay safe in that heat can sneak up on you
Sick builds, both the engine and the bike. Thanks as always, for sharing your build(s), and an extra thanks for sharing your sons build. Like to think there's something in the DNA there.
We know Steve Bright personally and meet up with him down at one of the local model Club tracks. Looking lovely. We are currently basking in rain, cold winds and a miserable outlook for our Club track running for next Tuesday. I spent the day on my mill. And wat am I watching to relax? David and Lily Reading.
@@joepie221 really good Joe thanks. I had a heart attack but thanks to some brilliant people, the first of whom is my neighbour who is a paramedic, I'm still alive. Have to have more treatment but we'll cross that bridge when we get there. I can still use the mill and the lathe as badly as I used to though. Thanks for asking Joe and regards from Gareth in Wales
That broken drill IS THE pin !! I wouldn't worry about the pins sticking out, unless yer gonna take it to over 12k rpm . The hold down clamps are as beautiful as the crank !! Ya get that twin cam honda finished, speaking of restos ??
Since this is an assembled crank rather than a forged one, there is an opportunity to extend the throws to form counterweights. These little engines vibrate and trying to minimize that might be something to consider. Cheers.
Long ago I made the single engine version of the No. 10 from castings. Stuart supplied a little forging for the crankshaft. My machining abilities were (and are) very rudimentary, and my first effort on the crankshaft failed miserably. For my second try I started with a piece of precision ground flat stock and produced a crankshaft good enough to make the little Stuart run merrily.
Out of the ball-park, Joe. Some of those fixtures seem so fiddly but so effective. Agree on the protruding pins, I vote keep 'em. Feel free to send a few of your extra degrees here. We are freezing and even if the imperial heat makes me break out in a rash it would be worth it. LOL Cheers
Throw a poll on here for some community engagement, I like the look of the pins as it is. What do you think of cold bluing the non-critical surfaces for the sake of looking cool? If i hadn't just had back surgery, I would sit and cad it up just to appease my curiosity. As always, it looks great and you had some great tips in there. Thank you.
@joepie221 I'm unsure why his comment was attached to mine, but I hope you don't take his view as my own. It's a model engine and if he was worried enough to use a tapered pin, I'm sure he wouldn't have kept the paper thin sidewall.
I like the pins showing ... Perhaps I missed it, but what is retaining the smaller crank rods that the connecting rods are attached to (other than press fit)? I don't see the pins on those... Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦
Its a heavier press on the rod journals, and if all goes well, it applies equal force on the throws when it runs. Realistically, only the inner throws are seeing rotational resistance from each other because of the 90 degree offset.
I'm surprised you didn't go with a tapered pin. Looking great and should run smooth and quiet. Thank you Joe. Time to unloosen the caps on a couple of cold ones.
Hey Joe. A bunch of great tips and layout/setups for all of us here today. I'm sure glad you didn't have to shut the place up and go home. We need those magic genies to extract broken drills that small. big ones too eh. Leave the pins but just give them a couple taps with a punch with a concave grind in the tip. Just in case they try and move with all that massive torque this beauty will have, LOL. It is killer hot up here too. About 85 converting to Celsius of 26. I/we melt up here at 72 or 22 C, LOL. I'd ship you a bucket of co2 if I thought it could make it last the journey. You should be able to get dry ice from your welding supply folks. It isn't really expensive either. Take a cooler of it and a fan behind it and woohoo a cooler shop but at the same time I have heard that most shops in Texas are not insulated so the effect wouldn't last long eh. The teach did a great job on this assembly. Finicky thing eh. Thanks a bunch and I will be here for the assembly and hopefully see it in motion with compressed air as I know you still need a mini boiler to cap this stack of machines you have created. See ya then, take care eh.
@@joepie221 That would be an amazing achievement. You pull that one off and you will re-wright the laws of physics as we know it. Too bad my childhood friend from down the street(Mr Eisenstein, Albert) isn't with us anymore. You would sure have his attention. He lived up here in Vancouver BC for a good part of his life. Neat guy with fun stories for all the local kids. Anyways, like I said, that video is now formulating in you and I sure would like you to pull that one off my friend.
Time 23:00. Brilliant way to get a 90 degree angle! I might be wrong but Harley Davidsson uses 60 degrees..... Teasing You..... For steam loco modellers "quarting" is often an obstacle. Time 24:15. That's critical, to have a straight axle and not a whipping cream tool..... Time 25:30. Looks like You nailed it! Time 28:28. Why not pin the right part from up to down? More meat there.... Time 32:30. Now I can enjoy things.... Spelled: Relax!
I think the original build plan uses a single crankshaft, the webs are slid on, pinned in place, and then the center portion machined out. That method wouldn’t work with the smaller holes. Making it in separate pieces like that takes exceptional care. The fact that the crank rotated so nicely proves the precision of assembly.
That would mean the throws would have clearance for installation. And...although they suggested that method, they neglected to supply sufficient material to do so.
My vote says, leave the pins as they are... Very very nice work Joe 👍👌
I was honestly expecting you to say "Well, thats good but not good enough for me" and for you to turn a complete crankshaft from a single rod of metal.
I thought about it.
As this video series is undoubtedly going to be the "Bible" for this little engine, I think you need to include the solid crank option for those willing to have a go✅
Is it not just as important to pin the big end journals as well?
And finally, for those running on steam, how about attempting to make the world's smallest "Clupet" ring😂😂 I've got 2" ones on my engines and they come highly recommended by some steam enthusiasts.
You beat me to this comment 👍
The fixtures are awesome.
Leave the ends Joe, yes it adds character and points out that the crank is not a turning.
Personal opinion; If leaving the pins protruding I would shorten the protrusion to about half the diameter of the pin. Looking great!
That’s beautiful work Joe. When you enjoy doing something you get good at it and when you’re good at something you enjoy doing it. I enjoy watching you work, therefore I’m good at watching you work.
I'm fortunate to have the opportunity to learn a craft in my old age by putting together a dream backyard machine shop (I did start young). Hearing a master like Joe's thought process while he is working is a priceless teaching tool Thank you.
My pleasure.
You go brother! No time like the present to get started. Lots of good used machines available. And it’s a pleasure to guys like Joe sharing experience.
This is just insane! What a beautiful craftsmanship! two thump up!!!
Thank you very much.
I think you cool Joe! Thanks again for sharing you time and talents with us.
Hi Joe, excellent job made to look really easy. Personally I would cut the pins flush as full size engines usually had forged cranks. Those old foundry men really knew their stuff!
Don't worry, Joe, I never throw anything away because I know I'll need it one day. ...And it shows in my shop and carport and shed and... 😅
LOL… I wouldn’t know anyone with this disorder! Have you ever said to yourself..”Huh, I forgot I had that. Cool, I can use it”
@@devmeistersuperprecision4155 lol no I actually have a good head for my belongings spit usually is more like I deng well know inhale it but where????
Spit should be but.
Inhale is i have
TH-cam is acting up so I cannot edit my answer, sorry for the missing punctuation.
I like the look of the protruding pins. I would leave them.
You keep teaching me that I need to thoroughly think the order of operations thru. Brilliant idea to make a ‘master’ corner mark. Thanks, Joe
Joe is right on the order. When you program a CNC part from scratch, you often have think order. That is where a good traditional machinist background helps. Not all CNC is push and go coding.
100% agree.
Hey Joe, the reason Stuart did not specify reducing the diameter of the crank rods is that you did not make it the way they intended. they intended you to assemble the webs onto the crankpins then have them a sliding fit onto a single piece shaft, loctite and pin them in place then machine away the parts of the main shaft between the webs, meaning that the crank mains would be naturally aligned. Your method is far more challenging from an alignment perspective, so huge kudos for getting it so good
Insufficient material dictated the process. Remember, every throw will consume twice its thickness in rod material. Thats almost 1.3" of material.
Extended pins. Good choice, defines the hand crafted aspect. Adolescent years just outside Phoenix, last 10 years in AZ in Yuma, tell them “grey heat” folks “stick your head in an oven” as an appropriate response! And let’s not forget the upcoming monsoon effects. Whooooppppiiiieeeee. Great video, looking forward to seeing it finished and running
i do love watching your builds. i wish i had machines to join you in building and innovating.
Leave the pins sticking out ! They look real cool and mechanical like ! 👍🏻
another nice video, like the pins as is joe.
cheers ben.
just luvs how you keep crankin these models out. and like the protruding pins
I do too. Unexpected.
You could always put a pin through both journals vertically. When doing the crank for our locos, my Dad and I had the main crank go through the journals then machined out the piston rod throws.
Good point.
Keep them proud. Looks good that way.
I would prefer leaving the pins flush so that any future lateral movement of the pin would be easily visible upon inspection. Also, what happened to the Loctite?
Valid point
@@joepie221If you peen a big mushroom head on each side they shouldn't move.
Beauty! {no drill bits or reamers were broken in the production of this video)
On the edge of my seat waiting for the assembly and run in . Love the set ups and jigs , thanks .
You and me both!
As far as the position of the pins, there is nothing that says they must go through the center of the shaft. If you are worried about wall thickness, then offsetting the pins would give you more material around them. Another way you could have gone about putting the pins in, is through the bottom, or one long one going all the way through from the top. That last stunt would pin both the journal, and the crank in one shot.
That's a damn good idea to keep for reference.
When I saw that flat stock I flashed back 40 years when I blued, traced from template and cut out crank shafts from 2x4 bar stock for a man we called “Crankshaft Carl”. I believe the steel cranks were for replacing the cast cranks in Briggs engines for tractor pulling contests. After cutting with band saw and roughing on the South Bend, it went to the CNC for finishing before sending out to get hardened and ground. I made the counter weights from 4” round, cutting in half and milling pockets for fitting to crank, then socket head cap screw them to crank shaft.
Well done. Pinning was done on full-size engines, depending on the manufacturer and service.
Congratulations to your son.
Thank you very much! he deserves a big pat on the back. What a fantastic job he did.
Everything is always just right when you get it finished. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Thanks for commenting Harold. I hope all is well.
I like the projecting pins. Leave 'em as is.
I will.
Hi Joe, I've been following a lot of your work. The funny thing is that I bought the D10 engine about three years ago, but for different reasons I haven't done much yet. If everything goes well with the arrival of my retirement, I may be able to do it, and thanks for all the good videos
Save these videos and have a good time. Its a fun kit.
I trust you, Mr Joe. ANY way u make it look is perfectly fine with me! 😊😊
As usual another nice one. So smooth running.
Lets hope. The piston doesn't use rings. I may add some.
@@joepie221 Hmm, A prudent idea Joe. Odd to not see them. The blowby would be enormous without them.
Hell of a nice job on the bike!!!! Looks like the apple didnt fall far from the tree.
He did an amazing job.
Nice comment.
I agree with you Joe, the proud pins add an interesting feature and openly display how it was constructed. Lovely job, can't wait to see it all completed.
I’ve been looking at the Comal. We try and make it there once a year to float down the rivers.
That Texas heat is nothing to play with.
Hope you’re staying cool and keeping healthy!
Its a popular spot.
Nice work as always Joe.
Thanks.
Nice bike, and I'm not a bike guy either! I'd remove the ends of the pins so it resembles a forged and machined one piece crank. I was hoping you'd machine that bad boy from a solid piece of steel.
Regards,
Preso
Thanks Preso. I did the PM kit from a solid bar and wanted this one to be different.
Joe
nice job neat and tidy
Think how difficult it is on a three driver loco , 1 the frames have to be square and parallel , 2 the horns and the axle boxes have to be square and equal in dims. 3 now the difficult part three sets of wheels have to be quarters ( crank pins set at 90 degrees ) there time exactly , 4 now the acid test put it together and see if the connecting rods fit and it goes round .
and yes I have built 5 loco's and all was fine ran and pulled the load of 20 adults , except one which to compound the problem was between the frames cranks ( 90 deg offset as in your job ) but with external connecting rods . look up the GWR 14xx class loco
keep up the good work its always great to see how others solve the problems
But, we love a challenge.
More nice work and even better knowing you did it in this excessive heat wave we are putting up with!
That is one of the memories I'll take away from this build for sure.
Congrats to your son on his bike restoration. It’s obvious the quality bug bit him too.
He really did a fantastic job. He never painted before either. Bought the guns and paint, hit TH-cam, bam. Done.
At 28:20, a load would need torque. I wouldn't thin the main ends as much as the rod journal ends since reducing the radius also reduces the torque that can be transferred. I think about midway between the two as they are would be close to optimum. Another possibility would be to pin it from the end opposite the rod journal.
I grew up thinking of Texas as a dry, dusty place, probably from watching too many westerns. I was disabused of this notion the moment I stepped off the plane at DFW in the middle of summer.
Bam....in your face hot.
Thanks Joe. It's winter here. I much prefer heat to cold!
Agreed.
what a result! such a pleasure watching you find those parts hidden in the raw stock. Art AND Science!
Just remove the waste. Simple.
Looks good to me, beautiful job all around.
Thank you.
Awesome! It's hot near Waco too. But.. it's summer and it's Texas. Tomorrow it might snow! 😁
Just wait 5 minutes.
Thank you for your time/efforts in this build along with sharing your discussion…..awesome lessons…
Glad you enjoyed it Chuck! Thanks for stopping by.
Super work Joe and I really like that final Al jig for setting up the crank for pinning - nice. I wonder whether your reamer choices are what you had or whether you had to obtain some specially - so many tiny sizes! I like the finished pins as shown. Can't wait for assembly! :)
For turned parts, its easier to pick a reamer and turn the boss to fit after the hole is done. No special reamers needed. But...I do have quite a few at my disposal.
Leave the pins - liked the rivet look.
Thanks Joe - very instructional. I recently made a similar steam engine myself and found the crankshaft fabrication quite challenging. I was successful in the end, but would loved to have seen your video before attempting it so I could adopt your hints and techyniques. Would have made things a lot easier! 🙂
I appreciate that.
The protruding pins make it look authentic, keep them!
Wish I could send you some of our cool. 53-54 outside and 63 inside. Spring has ended so now we get a second winter until Fall when it gets hot. Such is "Summer" in the SF Bay Area. Seems like only yesterday you started on this engine! You make it look easy.
Thanks. Its been fun, and a great gift. It took a while to get to it, but I'm enjoying it.
Joe, This was a fantastic episode packed full of process tips. Thank you 🙏
Glad you enjoyed it!
I was thinking that it would look good with the rod pins pinned as well but it still looks great & i am still loving your shop gems, At the moment our night time temp is around 7c (44.6f) & day time temps are around 12c (53.6f), I'm so over the cold & can't wait for the warmer weather...
Being from the NE USA, I totally get that.
Thanks for the great video Joe. Wife in Dallas this week 110-120 heat advisory. Ouch. I like the upper 70’s low 80’s here in Ohio thank you. Well done on the motorcycle Looks great
In person its really stunning.
Outstanding as usual, thanks Joe
Glad you enjoyed it
nice work i am a fan of the pins protruding looks good Cheers might be time to spend a little and A C the shop
I’m so impressed with how easy you make it look.
Thank you.
pins out for me Joe. it looks right that way i think. another gem. stay safe my friend.
Clocking that crank seems like more work than eccentric lathe work (says the guy who's not running the machine). Personally I like the look of the proud pins, as if showing off each step of the process. Looking forward to the final assembly!
Me too.
Joe, why didn't you pin the offsets for the connecting rods?
Those ends are not nested like the mains. Risk of shifting the throw.
Nice job Joe .. when I've done similar crankshafts in the past I made all the journals a light slide fit and relied on the accuracy of my jig to keep everything aligned while the Loctite set .. I I prefer the pins left protruding.. I like to use taper pins on crankshaft with a thread on the small end and a nut to pull it all together with more loctite
Not enough material in the kit.
You saved the best until last….! Good lesson on drilling, reaming, and boring small parts…!
Glad you liked it!
You surprised me by, not making a one piece crankshaft..however, I think a nine piece crankshaft is quite a bit more challenging to make.Thanks for the great video.
I considered it, but this time I went with the drawing.
Ive learnt so many tool holding techniques in this series of videos so far. Thanks Joe, really enjoying them. Really looking forward to seeing the finished result.
Should be this week.
I like the pins sitting proud of the surface, I say keep em as is. Looking forward to seeing the Assembly and possibly a running video, thank you for uploading Joe. 👍👍
The assembly and test run is the next video.
Rite Joe, my vote would be to keep the pins exposed I think it looks great, but your model your rules! Again great content and awesome knowlege gleaned. TFS, GB :)
fan is a necessity it hit 96 here today with NO wind and about 46 percent humidity this afternoon cool build my thot is leave the pins have fun and stay safe in that heat can sneak up on you
I like the way you explain everything in a machinist way of metal. Thanks for your great video's.
Thanks for watching!
Sick builds, both the engine and the bike. Thanks as always, for sharing your build(s), and an extra thanks for sharing your sons build. Like to think there's something in the DNA there.
He's a sharp young man. I'm very proud of him.
We know Steve Bright personally and meet up with him down at one of the local model Club tracks.
Looking lovely.
We are currently basking in rain, cold winds and a miserable outlook for our Club track running for next Tuesday.
I spent the day on my mill. And wat am I watching to relax? David and Lily Reading.
Steve was very generous with this gift. I hope your weather improves. If you enjoyed my videos, hit that subscribe button. Thanks.
I have no intrest in small steam engines but i like all the great advice in these videos.
Nice bike, keep it up!
The series is more about process and setup. The parts are just gravy.
Lovely job Joe. Regards from Wales
Greetings. Hows the recovery coming along?
@@joepie221 really good Joe thanks. I had a heart attack but thanks to some brilliant people, the first of whom is my neighbour who is a paramedic, I'm still alive. Have to have more treatment but we'll cross that bridge when we get there. I can still use the mill and the lathe as badly as I used to though. Thanks for asking Joe and regards from Gareth in Wales
Outstanding as usual my friend !
Very nice, Joe!! 👏🏻👏🏻😊
Hey Joe Looking good. I like the pins. Thank You Sir
Thanks David.
That broken drill IS THE pin !! I wouldn't worry about the pins sticking out, unless yer gonna take it to over 12k rpm . The hold down clamps are as beautiful as the crank !! Ya get that twin cam honda finished, speaking of restos ??
Getting there.
Definitely leave the pins. I agree, they add so much to the build. 👍😎
It almost......looks like you know what you're doing lol. Great job!
Almost....:)
Looks nice. I like the exposed pin
Simply awesome work! And some great tips to get good results even when not measuring perfectly.
Glad you liked it!
I didn't know how much I didn't know.
Thanks for this video.
Since this is an assembled crank rather than a forged one, there is an opportunity to extend the throws to form counterweights. These little engines vibrate and trying to minimize that might be something to consider. Cheers.
Maybe next time.
Long ago I made the single engine version of the No. 10 from castings. Stuart supplied a little forging for the crankshaft. My machining abilities were (and are) very rudimentary, and my first effort on the crankshaft failed miserably. For my second try I started with a piece of precision ground flat stock and produced a crankshaft good enough to make the little Stuart run merrily.
Another lesson from the master. Thank you Sensai
My pleasure!
Out of the ball-park, Joe. Some of those fixtures seem so fiddly but so effective. Agree on the protruding pins, I vote keep 'em. Feel free to send a few of your extra degrees here. We are freezing and even if the imperial heat makes me break out in a rash it would be worth it. LOL
Cheers
I'll put in a request for you. We could use a break.
Throw a poll on here for some community engagement, I like the look of the pins as it is.
What do you think of cold bluing the non-critical surfaces for the sake of looking cool? If i hadn't just had back surgery, I would sit and cad it up just to appease my curiosity.
As always, it looks great and you had some great tips in there. Thank you.
I'd have used taper pins, the only correct method. I admire you Joe, but this time, you got it wrong.
Check 'your' print and get back to me. Thanks.
@joepie221 I'm unsure why his comment was attached to mine, but I hope you don't take his view as my own. It's a model engine and if he was worried enough to use a tapered pin, I'm sure he wouldn't have kept the paper thin sidewall.
@@hmh-jv6rn Just like aa food recipe. It is a guide that always can be adapted to suit it's makers tastes or looks.
I hope you are teaching at a local college or night school. Incredibly informative videos. Saved my bacon several times! 😂
Thanks. Glad to hear it.
South Florida saturday noon. 89Deg and humid. Feels like hot.
We are having a minor heat wave here in ol' London Town, low to mid 80s but should back to a sensible low 70s by Monday.
70 would feel great.
A vote for shaving the pins off, regards Ray.
Thanks Ray, but I hope you guys don't hate me when I keep them proud.
I like the pins showing ...
Perhaps I missed it, but what is retaining the smaller crank rods that the connecting rods are attached to (other than press fit)? I don't see the pins on those...
Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦
There's no torque on those joints. Like there is on the main.
Its a heavier press on the rod journals, and if all goes well, it applies equal force on the throws when it runs. Realistically, only the inner throws are seeing rotational resistance from each other because of the 90 degree offset.
I'm surprised you didn't go with a tapered pin. Looking great and should run smooth and quiet. Thank you Joe. Time to unloosen the caps on a couple of cold ones.
Then I'd need a tapered reamer. $45 US for one that small.
Thanks Joe
Well done. The bike at the end is gorgeous! i live about 90-ish miles SE of your shop. It's definitely been a brutal couple of weeks here in TX.
It really is! He did an amazing job. It was a mess when he rolled it in here.
Hey Joe. A bunch of great tips and layout/setups for all of us here today. I'm sure glad you didn't have to shut the place up and go home. We need those magic genies to extract broken drills that small. big ones too eh. Leave the pins but just give them a couple taps with a punch with a concave grind in the tip. Just in case they try and move with all that massive torque this beauty will have, LOL. It is killer hot up here too. About 85 converting to Celsius of 26. I/we melt up here at 72 or 22 C, LOL. I'd ship you a bucket of co2 if I thought it could make it last the journey. You should be able to get dry ice from your welding supply folks. It isn't really expensive either. Take a cooler of it and a fan behind it and woohoo a cooler shop but at the same time I have heard that most shops in Texas are not insulated so the effect wouldn't last long eh. The teach did a great job on this assembly. Finicky thing eh. Thanks a bunch and I will be here for the assembly and hopefully see it in motion with compressed air as I know you still need a mini boiler to cap this stack of machines you have created. See ya then, take care eh.
Maybe I'll hook it up to my perpetual motion rig and see if this one does the same thing. Hmmmm ??
@@joepie221 That would be an amazing achievement. You pull that one off and you will re-wright the laws of physics as we know it. Too bad my childhood friend from down the street(Mr Eisenstein, Albert) isn't with us anymore. You would sure have his attention. He lived up here in Vancouver BC for a good part of his life. Neat guy with fun stories for all the local kids. Anyways, like I said, that video is now formulating in you and I sure would like you to pull that one off my friend.
Time 23:00. Brilliant way to get a 90 degree angle! I might be wrong but Harley Davidsson uses 60 degrees..... Teasing You.....
For steam loco modellers "quarting" is often an obstacle.
Time 24:15. That's critical, to have a straight axle and not a whipping cream tool.....
Time 25:30. Looks like You nailed it!
Time 28:28. Why not pin the right part from up to down? More meat there....
Time 32:30. Now I can enjoy things.... Spelled: Relax!
Another great build - Thanks Joe.
Very welcome
making a purpose built bench block right now to drill a couple holes in the lathe without breaking it down . simple but it will take an hour.
I think the original build plan uses a single crankshaft, the webs are slid on, pinned in place, and then the center portion machined out. That method wouldn’t work with the smaller holes.
Making it in separate pieces like that takes exceptional care. The fact that the crank rotated so nicely proves the precision of assembly.
That would mean the throws would have clearance for installation. And...although they suggested that method, they neglected to supply sufficient material to do so.
great crank Mr. Pie
Beautiful machining, fabulous end product✅👍😊 10/10
Thanks. I'm pleased
Mr Joe , Why no pins through the rod journals ? If main journal twists it will throw geometry off and bind would it not ? Thanks You are the Best !
Actually, it wasn't called out on the drawing.