Had to watch this a few times in order to grasp details (and the dialect), but now I am doing belt adjustment exactly like this, and it works well for me. Thanks a lot from Switzerland - Oliver
Thank you for posting this. For some reason in the US, these bikes never really took off, even though they are much better than the equivalent Harley Fatboys so information is difficult to come by. This is a very challenging issue that plagues the Thunderbirds. I have been trying to put off the task of removing my back wheel for some time now because of this ... Steve makes it look easy and it certainly should be straightforward. Some people mention that the dynamics can change when the weight of the motorcycle is on the ground (It shouldn't but people say it can and with all the weight it is possible I guess). Just wondering if you or he has checked this after riding it? That would be the final test. Anyway, thank you for this and to Steve with the tip on the tension tool. I was going to do a pen clip that snaps on to the body and bend it to stick up at 90 degrees (similar to Triumph tool) but Steve's method is much simpler and cheaper! Ride safe!
@@1couple2bikes Thank you for taking the time to reply ... yes agree 100% with you ... just got to try it. I think my question was more of if yours has stayed put. Also noticed the jacking bar Steve used to jack up the rear end on the bike. Is that available somewhere? I tried to get one from Jack Be Quick but they no longer make them. I am about to go through the process of designing one myself but if one exists, I'd rather just buy one. Hope to see more vids on the bike! Cheers
After the adjustments, my belt still rides on the outside edge (when facing from rear it rides away from the bike, towards right) I adjusted the left side screw (brake side lug forward), but I don’t want it move too much forward, my notches don’t align any more, for example my notch on the right side is on “dot three” and the alignment “dot” on the brake side is at “2.5 dot” The Q is how much can these dots be miss aligned, I don’t want to move them too much apart from each other so that my wheel starts to ride at an angle (what ever that minute angle is) Is there any other adjustments i can look at, do I need a new belt? Or miss alignment of “dots” are fine up to some extent and what that tolerance is? Please advise ….
Sorry mate didn't see this. I'm not sure what Steve's using but we've got a SCA 680kg ATV lift from Supercheap. Level the bike with a block of wood under the kick stand and away ya go. Maybe put a bit of ply on the lifter arms to keep off the dangley bits.
@@magsteel9891 Steve was using a scissor lift just to get the back wheel off the ground in this video as this bike has a home made lift bracket attached. typically he uses the ATV lift under the engine at the balance point. I'll be posting a vid soon on the front forks and it'll be better seen on that.
@@1couple2bikes Thanks man. I looked more carefully at your video and saw the cross bracket bolted there. I thought maybe it was a jack-b-quick attachment, they are no longer available. It's so hard to buy anything for these bikes.
Muy interesante el video. Mi problema es que la correa se desplaza hacia el exterior, para ajustarla y dejarla centrada, tengo que desplazar el eje de la rueda 2 mm (el lado derecho más corto que el izquierdo) con lo cual el eje nunca queda transversal a la marcha, me va bien y la rueda no me hace ninguna cosa rara. Un saludo desde España.
La correa siempre correrá hacia el lado con la tensión más baja. Si el lado derecho está más cerca de la polea motriz que el izquierdo, seguirá hasta la brida exterior (derecha). (Esto es asumiendo que está midiendo la posición del eje). Como recordará, hay muy poco ajuste para rastrear correctamente la alineación de la rueda de la correa que no es un problema.
ok, muchas gracias por la respuesta, una pregunta.¿ puede ocasionar algún daño llevar la correa más tensa de lo normal? no tengo medidor de tensión de correas y la pongo a ojo. tengo encargado un belt tensión gauge
@@17zipi Lo siento, no vi tu comentario. Puede ser mejor dejar el cinturón suelto que apretado. Pero incluso medir el juego a ojo no debería alejarte demasiado.
Had to watch this a few times in order to grasp details (and the dialect), but now I am doing belt adjustment exactly like this, and it works well for me. Thanks a lot from Switzerland - Oliver
Steve is Better than 98% of qualified Bik Mechanicsks For sure
Thank you for this video
This is by far the best belt alignment method. Very clear and concise. Please make more helpful videos like this.
That's the plan. My steering bearing is on the way out so that's our next job.
Thank you and best greatings from Germany
Thanks Steve; very useful for all us 'bird riders plagued by the dreaded belt chirp!
Amazing. Thank you.
This is brilliant! Thank you!
Thanks Steve - good Idea!
Nice video, I had the chirp but provided a tad more slack in the belt, check alignment and no noise for over 5 years now.
good stuff awsome thanks
G'day Steve, where can I get one of those Jack's?
good day, tires on the stock wheel 240 will be installed ??? 🏍🏍🏍😊
Thank you for posting this. For some reason in the US, these bikes never really took off, even though they are much better than the equivalent Harley Fatboys so information is difficult to come by. This is a very challenging issue that plagues the Thunderbirds. I have been trying to put off the task of removing my back wheel for some time now because of this ... Steve makes it look easy and it certainly should be straightforward. Some people mention that the dynamics can change when the weight of the motorcycle is on the ground (It shouldn't but people say it can and with all the weight it is possible I guess). Just wondering if you or he has checked this after riding it? That would be the final test. Anyway, thank you for this and to Steve with the tip on the tension tool. I was going to do a pen clip that snaps on to the body and bend it to stick up at 90 degrees (similar to Triumph tool) but Steve's method is much simpler and cheaper! Ride safe!
Rider weight shouldn't change the dynamics but I've heard of this too. You just have to bite the bullet and go through the process again if it does.
@@1couple2bikes Thank you for taking the time to reply ... yes agree 100% with you ... just got to try it. I think my question was more of if yours has stayed put. Also noticed the jacking bar Steve used to jack up the rear end on the bike. Is that available somewhere? I tried to get one from Jack Be Quick but they no longer make them. I am about to go through the process of designing one myself but if one exists, I'd rather just buy one. Hope to see more vids on the bike! Cheers
@@turbo97semax Sorry mate missed this. The jacking bracket is a home made job that come with the bike.
After the adjustments, my belt still rides on the outside edge (when facing from rear it rides away from the bike, towards right)
I adjusted the left side screw (brake side lug forward), but I don’t want it move too much forward, my notches don’t align any more, for example my notch on the right side is on “dot three” and the alignment “dot” on the brake side is at “2.5 dot”
The Q is how much can these dots be miss aligned, I don’t want to move them too much apart from each other so that my wheel starts to ride at an angle (what ever that minute angle is)
Is there any other adjustments i can look at, do I need a new belt? Or miss alignment of “dots” are fine up to some extent and what that tolerance is?
Please advise ….
I'll run this by Steve and get back to you mate
What bike lift is that. I have a 2010 and I'm looking for a good sturdy lift that will fit under my Thunderbird.
Just a bog standard motorcycle scissor jack mate. You can pick them up for around $100.
@@1couple2bikes but where do you safely put a jack on these bikes? The service manual doesn't give any guidance at all
Sorry mate didn't see this. I'm not sure what Steve's using but we've got a SCA 680kg ATV lift from Supercheap. Level the bike with a block of wood under the kick stand and away ya go. Maybe put a bit of ply on the lifter arms to keep off the dangley bits.
@@magsteel9891 Steve was using a scissor lift just to get the back wheel off the ground in this video as this bike has a home made lift bracket attached. typically he uses the ATV lift under the engine at the balance point. I'll be posting a vid soon on the front forks and it'll be better seen on that.
@@1couple2bikes Thanks man. I looked more carefully at your video and saw the cross bracket bolted there. I thought maybe it was a jack-b-quick attachment, they are no longer available. It's so hard to buy anything for these bikes.
Muy interesante el video. Mi problema es que la correa se desplaza hacia el exterior, para ajustarla y dejarla centrada, tengo que desplazar el eje de la rueda 2 mm (el lado derecho más corto que el izquierdo) con lo cual el eje nunca queda transversal a la marcha, me va bien y la rueda no me hace ninguna cosa rara. Un saludo desde España.
La correa siempre correrá hacia el lado con la tensión más baja. Si el lado derecho está más cerca de la polea motriz que el izquierdo, seguirá hasta la brida exterior (derecha). (Esto es asumiendo que está midiendo la posición del eje). Como recordará, hay muy poco ajuste para rastrear correctamente la alineación de la rueda de la correa que no es un problema.
ok, muchas gracias por la respuesta, una pregunta.¿ puede ocasionar algún daño llevar la correa más tensa de lo normal? no tengo medidor de tensión de correas y la pongo a ojo. tengo encargado un belt tensión gauge
Un saludo
@@17zipi Lo siento, no vi tu comentario. Puede ser mejor dejar el cinturón suelto que apretado. Pero incluso medir el juego a ojo no debería alejarte demasiado.
@@1couple2bikes OK. Muchas gracias
Cool, and totally worthless without the custom tool....