How much electricity does my 3D Printer use? 9 Hour print.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.ย. 2022
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This is great that you've measured it, I had wondered but not enough to work it out myself, but for someone with an army of Pis I can't believe you've not running Octoprint! Sure you've got the camera sorted, which is one part of what it provides, the but monitoring and control of the printer, especially remote is a god send!
I have used octoprint in videos. It is great software.
The jump comes when the heated bed kicks in to maintain temp. Nothing else on a printer really takes much power at all. I've seen them run on 24v battery arrays that were charged by solar. No inverter or A/C involved.
Amazing, that's exactly what I was looking for! Thank you so much :)
Thanks for the video. I have a voxelab Aquila and very similar results. The new Bambu labs on the other hand is farrr more efficient due to print times.
About a third of the price so printing that 9h part would only cost around 10p! Pretty crazy.
Nic video Lee cheaper than boiling a kettle.
Hi Lee, love the videos. Try 3DQF for your filament, I use a Neptune 2 too and find that the 3DQF filament is perfect and cheaper than your Anycubic, it's also made here in the UK and has free postage.
OctoPrint with a smart plug plug-in is awesome. I use a TP-link plug with the TP-Link plug-in. Shuts the printer off when it's finished or in the event of thermal runaway.
Nice one buddy
You should look into installing klipper with fluid or octoprint. You can increase your printing speed and cut down on electricity bill
I think a big part of that initial current peak is the power supply charging up its capacitors.
This could also be a good (at least interesting) case for running the 3D printer setup from a battery that can be charged during off-peak hours and/or by a solar panel, so that it can run without interuption through the job, as well as get the better rates and lower impact on the grid. 👍
I've also seen insulated hoods for the 3D printers (Jeff Geerling has one), that might help keep your heating coil from having to peak as often?
The enclosures are only for high temperature filaments though, you cant print PLA in one, PLA does not need the bed heater on for some buildplates though so you can save energy there.
The start up of the heater cartridges for the hotend and the bed heater peak when they are switched on, I have noticed with my borosilicate beds if I increase the squish of the first layer slightly but apply a 0.36mm filet to the first wall of a part to avoid elephants foot I can have the bed heater turn off after 3 layers when printing PLA, if I dont increase the squish the bed releases the part as it cools, I hope I will save quite a few quid over a year.
If you are concerned about bed power use, insulate the bottom of it. The only down-side is that it takes forever to cool down.
When you have time and if you hadn't already check out the CHEP - Filament Friday channel. Chuck has put quite a bit of time into refining profile settings to lower print time but still maintain quality. I downloaded that same part and Cura shows me 3h 35m.
If you are fine with those print times that's totally okay but so you know you could probably print that large piece in under 2 hours with Klipper and some better slicer profiles. It involves lots of Pi stuff so it would fit right in on this channel.
💯
I also thought I would be more costly. What I noticed and as you stated: sometimes it consumes 46 watt, sometimes 306. Was it during the whole print between more or less these 2 values? That would suggest it's a rather crude temperature controller. A PID controlled one would for sure be better for the temperature but maybe it would consume even less, well, in fact it should.
Even an insulated hood might help.
Most 3D printers can be PID tuned but many manufacturers dont set it up and in the case of Creality, they go to the trouble of turning it off for the bed in the Marlin firmware and use the inferior bang bang method
Dont feel so bad having two raspberry pi 4 running 24/7
Try that on a Ender 5 plus printing on petg which needs a 80c heating bed which is nearly 500 watts to get the bed heated to 80c ( 25 minutes ) and 300 watts after to keep it to temp .
You can switch to a 230/110v heated bed. On a boron it take around 5 minutes to go from 30 to 90
@@riccardosacchetti Yep , my blv mgn cube has a 1000 watts 350x350mm bed heater , which is super faster to heat up , but will still take the same energy to keep it at temp.
@@peteradshead2383 have you insulated the bed?
@@riccardosacchetti no , earthed and 2 thermal fuses on the bed.
oops I know what you mean now , yes cork I think .
@@peteradshead2383 yep! I have to try by my self..
Average consumption was 100w
Fixed price electricity.
Interesting. Although your electricity is more expensive than ours, or at least where I live. Considering the conversion rate, the pound is higher than the dollar, and I pay $0.11 per kwh, I'd say you pay anywhere from 4 to 5 times what I do, maybe more. I'm curious what the cost per print would come out to on the total price of the printer. Take its price when new, divide by number of prints over its lifespan after it dies. I'd wager that's pennies per print, given that you might have it for 10 years or longer.
I bought my first 3d printer about 7 years ago, and another one a few years later. I couldn't even begin to make an accurate at guess how many prints I've done in total on the two printers so far as I never kept track of it, but it is certainly in the multiple thousands. Calculating the price of the printer over that many prints, it certainly is not much. Given what I paid for the things, I'd be surprised if I'm still at more than €0.20 per print of the printer cost... And both of my printers are still going strong.
@@rsnowdowne If you've printed thousands of times, I'd be surprised if it was that high. If it was a 500 dollar printer, that's 50,000 pennies. 5,000 prints which I can easily see half of that in the first year would equate to a mere 10 cents per print. But I'd still love to see someone track their usage and find out for sure. For that matter, earlier printers required far more calibration. If we count that process in the NoP's it could drastically affect the numbers.
@@anon_y_mousse my first printer was a $300 kit, my second was around $600. I will say I have upgraded parts a couple of times through the years on both printers, so you can probably add another $400 or so on top of that. That puts my total for 5000 prints at around 26 pennies per print… (averaged over both printers). Either way, I’ve certainly got my money’s worth out of the printers, and continue to enjoy them. I think I have got enough out of the printers that I don’t even think about the sunk cost any more.
@@rsnowdowne But the thing to remember, as long as they still work and you still use them, the cost will keep sinking. ;)
Oh, Europe starts to worry about energy consumption; is that because of russian war on ucraine?
was switching off years before that war, why keep things in standby, at
night the fridge and my alarm clock are on, all the rest is off. (router/wifi/tv/music center/chromebook ...)
Amongst other things, yes
Its mostly greed by the energy companies and our new Prime Ministers reluctance to tax their windfall profits adequately and use it to decrease our bills because they donate 1.5 million to the Conservative Party, some people might call it a bribe, I could not possibly comment!