Paul answers all your Klamper Questions
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ส.ค. 2024
- We took all of our most commonly asked Klamper questions, strung them together, and pinned down Paul himself to answer them all. This turns out to be a pretty interesting deep dive into our Klamper disc brakes, but also might help answer some of your more general compatibility and fitment questions along the way. Thanks for watching!
Klamper Adjustment Video: • Lindsay Explains Klamp...
Klamper Disassembly: • Klamper Disassemble
Flat Mount Installation: • Flat Mount Klamper Dis...
0:00 Intro
0:30 Long Pull and Short Pull Explained
5:20 Mounts and Adapters: I.S., Post Mount, Flat Mount
9:44 Why Mechanical
10:52 Actuator Arms
11:37 Why Klampers Rock
12:56 Brake Pads
15:26 Why Single Sided
16:34 Bolt Corrosion
18:41 Cables and Housing - กีฬา
I can attest that these are the real deal. Hands down my favorite brake on the market.
When Paul gets put in front of the camera, you know it's gonna be good! Love my Klampers. Thanks for doing what you do.
These brakes are absolutely no joke, 100% worth the cost. So great to see the head cheese giving a rundown and adressing these topics! In world of over-saturated, low-quality products and informaition, it feels good and worthwhile to support a company like Paul Comp ... and Sierra Nevada! haha
Great video. There's something cool about the fact that the head honcho of a company would take the time to explain the in's and out's of one of their products. It's pretty clear that he's passionate and proud of the company that he's built, and the products that it produces, which is nice to see.
I have been running Klampers on my only bicycle for the last two years and have found them to be fantastic brakes. They are one of those quality, well made bike components that you put on your bike and forget about them, because they just work. I've had mine apart, mostly out of curiosity. I figured after two years of use they would need some kind of maintenance but really, it was completely unnecessary. It was interesting to see the internals though, and appreciate the precision with which they are all machined.
Quality product. Would buy again.
Just keep in mind if u take it apart, he said they torque the bolts to very specific max load, which is not possible to get that kind of precision with an at home torque wrench, so be very careful if u do decide to go that route.
@@garthgordon9054 Are you talking to me? It's clearly stated in the video that it's not recommended to remove the bolts that hold the two halves of the caliper body together so I have not done that, nor do I plan to.
@@Alistair_Spence ah okay, I must-have misread, I thought u said u had it apart. Wasn't sure if u knew about the max torque
@@garthgordon9054 Yes, I had it apart, to the extent that they recommend that you take it apart. Yes, I know about the max torque. I read the instructions when I bought them, watched the videos etc. etc. I know about the max torque.
i was one of those who asked the exact same question. i bought the short version and its as he said - well built, well designed, super strong, easy to adjust, no disc rubbing, easy to maintain.... love them
I own a set not only because they are awesome but as a mechanic I appreciate Paul mansplaining the functionality of the brakes
i use 180 mechanical long pull disc break on my xc bike its feel so good and powerful and its pocket friendly and i love them
Thank you for also using mm.
More to the point, your calipers are a thing of total beauty! I just found you from seeing them on a Japanese bike on Instagram. Watching this and seeing your passion, I'm now planning to use them on my next cinelli gravel bike build (so beautiful, and colorful too 😎). Although costing more, I believe you pay for what you get! On the plus side... cable levers have so much choice, something for everyone's budget, new or second hand, which balances the total price out.
Just need some customized CNC matching color brake levers or some kind of discreet bling accessory parts to match through!
One final thing to highlight, people put their lives in your hands by using your brakes, so please never cut corners in design, engineering, and materials!
I love my Klampers even more now.
Same bike, same brakes. Love my Falconer with the Klampers. Great vid. Thanks Paul.
Cheers, Paul and crew! Rule #1 is the #1 rule.
Up here in Finland cycling thru winter w/h Paul neo-retro cantis. Excellent kit. Expensive but worth it. cheers,
Sounds like you solved all the issues I dislike about my Avid BB7s. Will definitely be looking at these in the future.
Very informative! I’ve been thinking about buying a pair. Think you sold me!
I put purple Klampers on my Chumba Stella Ti singlespeed, and they are the nicest and most effective brakes I've ever used. But the best part is that I can adjust and maintain them myself with a multi-tool. How cool is that?
Great video! I especially liked the explanation of long vs short pull. I've been rocking the Klamper for a few years now. They've been with me on a couple 1,000 mile tours through remote areas, and will be with me on many more I hope.
Best brakes ever! Going on 2 years in the purple flat mount on my cross/road bike and they really are a joy to look at. They have all the power needed to stop my heavy butt in all situations. Building up a fast titanium road bike soon and I’m skipping Red hydraulic and going for some polished Klampers! Thanks for making great bike parts and for this detailed video 🇺🇸
Great video, great brakes!
soon. soon, I will have pair
Waiting for all the “just the tip” jokes. Awesome video.
Thanks for the video. I was an early adopter and have loved these brakes from day one. looks like I should request two sets of the new-style 3-piece detente kits for smoother adjustment of the pad dials. Both front and rear are pretty stiff to adjust at the moment, and always were a bit tough to spin.
Love my Klampers!
Been saving up for a set! Hopefully they’ll be in stock when I have enough funds!
about the housing,:I have had great great great experience setting up klampers with Jagwire KEB-SL compressionless housing, would absolutely recommend!!!
thanks Paul!!!
Sometimes it works fine! The reason we usually tell people to use the normal stuff is because we have occasionally seen the housing or the sealed ferrules that sometimes come with these kits cause excessive drag. resulting in a sluggish return. Not always though, as in your case. Cheers!
I won't use anything but compressionless housing with mechanical discs, otherwise my brakes are mushy and short on power.
I use Yokozuna or Jagwire housing. They appear to be the same exact housing.
Ive upgraded lots of my customer's bikes with it too. They love it and appreciate saving money opposed to expensive hydro brake upgrades.
One tip is to ensure there is no added cable friction. Prep housing ends properly and find ferrules that don't add friction. Don't use sealed ones. They're not necessary.
Being very careful of the housing routing and minimizing tight bends seems to do the trick.
Compressionless housing conserves your lever travel which is the main problem with road brifters and mechanical discs.
@@rollinrat4850 agreed
Call me "crazy", but I'm getting only one of these (I currently can't afford two) - and specifically for the rear wheel. I've been lead to believe that they are capable of "locking up" a wheel, and I'm too afraid of doing a faceplant from having one on the front (even though I'm aware that you get maximum braking effect on the front wheel). I need to figure out how to "modulate" this type of brake before I even THINK about trying to use one on the front wheel. Also, I wish to stay "mechanical" (as opposed to: hydraulic), and if it's good enough for me to be dragging rubber on the rear wheel I will start saving my shekels for the second one.
Anyways, as of yesterday - mine is on its way to me. I can't wait!
First learn to get your weight back, and lower down steep hills or when heavy braking. Often I need to actively push my body weight back. Gravity and braking inertia tries to push you forward and over the bars. Be fluid and float your weight on the bike, don't sit in one position. Use your arm and legs as shocks, even when using suspension or just riding rough pavement. Its also less stress on wheels and tires. Pedaling a higher gear helps in rough terrain as well as it gets more weight off your ass and your legs work better like shocks.
Practice braking hard in controlled situations to get more comfortable and understand the dynamics as they happen. You will hear your tires scrubbing the ground just before the point of lockup. To improve your skills, you will certainly need to leave your comfort zone and conquer that uneasiness.
Maybe change your riding position so you can learn to use that front brake. It's the only way to achieve really powerful braking in a real emergency. Gotta get that weight back so you don't endo. Sometimes you need to try to practically sit on the back tire to get the brakes to work most effectively and not endo. I've buzzed my ass on many occasions! Not a big deal as long as you don't actually sit on the tire!
An overpowered rear brake and weight forward just makes you skid everywhere. That's not being in control by any means. This is why popular trails have so many big braking bumps leading into corners, such that fullies are often required to tolerate riding them. People have brakes too powerful for their skills! It will always be the RIDER, not the freakin bike!
My best means of modulating powerful brakes is to move the brake levers in towards the stem on an mtb, adjust the reach in towards the bars so your hands have more mechanical advantage and better sensitivity, then operate brakes with your index finger only. Start with 160mm rotors and go up from there if you need more power.
If it's still too powerful get short travel levers and the short lever arms for your Paul's calipers. Use 140 rotors (if they fit) if youre a particularly small person.
I use 2 piston XT hydros on one of my MTBs. 180 rotors were more power than I needed and braking was too jerky and sudden. 160s are plenty for steep sketchy technical trails. I don't descend that fast, I can, but I usually rest on descents during long mountainous rides.
180 rotors with mechanical brakes and compression less housing is just about right on a heavier bike packer hauling around lots of gear.
If you're using drop bars, better yet, dirt drops, get a higher and shorter stem so riding in the hooks is comfortable and normal. It's easier on your neck and far easier to see down the trail. There is a good reason the hooks are there!
Riding on the hoods all the time is not a very secure position in a lot of ways since you're sitting up high, farther over the front wheel. It can be kinda scary when a trail goes steeper than a 20% grade and a big impact can cause you to fly over the bars. Neither do you have a good solid grip, good control of the bike or very powerful braking position.
Riding in the hooks helps you grip the bars most securely, allows best leverage on brakes and handling the entire bike. It gives best weight distribution on both wheels (very important for traction) and allows you to use your upper body strength to power down in low traction situations.
This video was amazing. Very informative. I appreciate all of the Paul stuff I own.
This may be an odd question, but where does Paul source his shirts?
Paul mostly wears Ben Davis work shirts.
Well done Paul! American know how at work. # American Made!
This video is grrrrrrreat
It would have been helpful to explain the use cases between long pull and short pull, and how to choose one over the other
He does explain the difference between long pull and short pull at the beginning of the video. In the end it comes down to personal preference. I prefer long pull on my bike as it seems to me to be more comfortable when I grip them and brake.
Hope that helps
Cheers!
PAUL. "Accept no substitutes." - Ferris Beuller.
Love the video! Thanks Paul A very silly side question... as I sit here wearing my new Filson Mechanics shirt that's nearly identical to yours... but in blue/white. Where does yours come from? Thanks guys... I LOVE YOUR PRODUCTS & VIDEOS!
bendavis.com/product/short-sleeved-stripes-half-zipper/
I just ordered these for my Trek 1120. Black & orange of course. I’ll reply back on here once installed.
slow install? 😘
any plan for making dual pistion working in the future?
I have a Lectric 2.0 ST ebike. I want to use PK Caliper. I wonder what model could fit my ebike?
Short pull, post mount
Let me see... L for long, S for short, C for Campagnolo... 🙂
If I use drop bar brake levers, how do I know if I should get long or short pull?
Almost all road levers are short pull. Sram road levers pulls the most cable, Shimano pulls a bit less, Campy even less like Paul says.
Tektro, Dia Compe and Cane Creek offer long pull, brake only levers that work with v brakes or long pull disc calipers. I use the Cane Creeks on a couple bikes. Long pull disc calipers offer the best braking power. I won't waste my time or money on short pull mechanical road discs. They're inferior in my opinion.
Short Pull: This version is designed to work with road levers, including SRAM, Shimano and combined shifter/brake levers. It also works great with the Canti Lever, our short-pull flat bar brake lever.
Long Pull: This version is designed to work with long-pull brake levers, such as the kind that work with V or linear-pull brakes. Our Love Levers work especially well with this model. It also works well with long-pull drop bar levers, such as the Cane Creek Drop V.
Campagnolo: Campy uses a super-short cable pull, so this Klamper uses a super short Campy-only actuator arm.
One question..... Adjustment. Does "In" mean in towards the Rotor, or back 'In' to the caliper? Same for 'Out" to the rotor, or 'out' away from the rotor? My vision is not the best, so looking down to see the pads moving will not be the easiest for me.
Adjusting your brake pad "In" is towards the rotor, "Out" is away from it.
A bit concerned about the bolts rusting? Is that a common occurrence?
Just wanted to ask would your Klampers fit the rear on a 2022 Fuse Comp 29? 🤔 Seen them on Hardtail Party and really intrigued with them . Just want to know it they’d fit before purchasing them? Told my wife they’d make a awesome Christmas gift !!!
But can I endo with 2 weeks of groceries?
Short pull 32mm arm lengh - lever ?
long pull ? lever 42mm radius > 15mm pull at 20
short lever 21mm radius 8mm pull
???
my lever 42mm radius brake caliper 35mm ? power :(
What type of Clamper should I use for Surly midnight special? Short / long pull, better post mount or flat mount..thank you
got the same Q now - what did you go for and how did it turn out? cheers!
@@treefaceablenow I’m using drop bar short pull Paul klamper
can i use long pull levers with short pull brakes to get more modulation at the cost of "power"?
ive heard people used to put road calipers on mtbs for this purpose and in my wet muddy slippery terrain i definitely want more modulation, ive never felt like my brakes lacked strength before if anything they always feel too strong
or is the modulation il get with klampers already more than enough?