Excellent choice. I personally went with the gold anodized. Instead of going to a large 40 tooth cassette I swapped out my road crank to a New Albion sub compact 42/16. Keep up the good work. Enjoy your day.
Nice - yeah - those color choices are all personal. I stuck with the 50 on this bike just because I have an ATB with easier gears and I ride this as my road bike too. Cheers!
I remember PLP stating that about those brakes. I'll have to keep them in mind. I'm currently running Yokozuna Optimos, which you probably know are hydraulic at the caliper, but cable actuated. Aside from the aluminum heat sinks in the rotors having a mild rattle, they've been flawless as well. I'm simply going to remove the heat sinks when I put new rubber on, so it's not the end of the world. Another thing in common... you mentioned the Carver bars being very compliant. I have found the same with FSA's carbon AGX K-Wings. In fact, I loved them so much that I put them on my road bike as well. The oval tops, cable routing, and the flats just behind the brake hoods take the cake. Plus, carbon really excels when it's cantilevered. The bike industry knew this early on with the addition of carbon forks and seat posts to midrange aluminum bikes. Carbon frames?... meh. I have one... probably will never have another. It was a tooth chipper until all the carbon weight bearing component upgrades (bars, stem seatpost, wheels). Damn weight weenies and their influence. ;)
Yeah - always heard good things about those brakes and one of my friends rides them. Yeah - its funny that there is all this fancy, expensive stuff to soften a ride when the right bars and post will do fine for most applications. I have an older Trek aluminum road bike with a carbon wrapped for - that thing is not compliant in anyway though - so it is now just a trainer bike.
@ I’ll be curious to see how my uninstalled Klampers. I seem to collect stuff, I better start installing and riding the stuff. Probably put the Klampers on my Karate Monkey.
I’ve got 31/40 on 650b in Tennessee. Really helps with the steep stuff. Very tempted to go hydro from spyres, as things can get a little sketchy downhill. Especially with tired hands on long days.
They come with o-rings to install in the ends. We did on both bikes I use them with and have no trouble. My buddy just told me e doesn't like to install them on Paul Klampers though.
So- looking at you bike in the stand….and it could be the angle? I had a Cannondale saddle years ago, With an up sweep on the tail of the saddle. Dose the saddle have an upsweep towards the whale tale ?
The saddle is well worn so yes - but I always point my Brooks up a bit even when they are new. Something with leather tensioned saddle and where you sit on them makes them more comfortable that way.
I'm using a goatlink 11 and a tanpan with a hack drivetrain mating GRX600 levers to a XT derailleur with a Sunrace 11-50t cassette. Shifting has been good, though I do have to sacrifice a little bit of shifting "performance" at one extreme of the cassette or the other. The main issue I have is that jumping to the 50t the chain sometimes doesn't line up right with the narrow-wide teeth. I'm thinking maybe the chain length is the issue but can't be positive.
Interesting, I didn’t know they made titanium gravel bars. I didn’t think it was possible. I have a set of groovy love handles bars, w/ a 14 % pull back or off set. Great bars for taking the chatter out of the road. Or trail…. I also have a set of Y cycles, titanium handlebars for mountain bike, and I love those too
I'm sorry I find the Growtech, Klampers, Yokazuna's just way to expensive in general. If I'm putting out that kind of money might as well swap out my SWORD brifters and Tektro C550 brakes(OEM Spyre's). for GRX 400 Brifters and brakes and just make it full hydraulic. If you gonna pay that much for brakes I don't see why not real hydraulic.
These have hydraulic like performance without the pain or risk of failure and the maintenance. If you travel or do long trips with your bike mechanicals are a safer bet. I never tried to claim these are cheap - but they still work like new - this vid is probably a couple years old and I still love the brakes - even bought a set for my ATB. If you don’t mind dealing with hydro that is fine - but just like electronic shifting - not for me.
Any issues with shifting up to the bigger ring on your 2X? I have the 105 S11 50-34MA and T32 cassette. Looking to add a few more climbing gears on my Jamis gravel bike.
@@TimFitzwater Thanks for the info. I’ve been waffling back and forth on picking cassettes and wondering if a T42 pairs up just fine with the 105 S11 50-34. I read mixed reviews on this topic.
i have a 42/11 42 front 1x grx. is that the same as a 34/34? sometimes i feel like i need a little more here in mountainous Va. sometimes i wish i had more range. But probably switching to 2x grx would be too much money i think. Would have that 34 42 be worth it?
Gear inch calculations are a little confusing and beyond me but I do believe “1 to 1” is the same ie. 34x34 & 42x42. The cheapest solution would be to get a smaller front chain ring if you could live with a little less top end. I’m a huge believer in the double front chain rings for this very reason - but no one listens to me 😃
Yes, it is the same . A way to verify this is to change the calculator to gear inches in any computation chart. Inches refers to rolling distance in inches with one rev of the cranks. Both 34/34 and 42/42 are 26.30 inches. This being said, It's still pretty high for a low gear. 17 or 18 inches is getting down at the granny pace. For example, a 1x mtn bike with a 34 chainring and an 11-50 pie plate will render 17.88 inches on the low end. But only 81.26 on the high end. This is Tim's point about 2x up front and just dealing with a front derailleur. It gives you decent lows and some nice adequate highs. However, you can still have a party out back, like he did, in order to use existing equipment.
Its the feeling of being able to put different pressure on the lever and get a different result in the braking. Meaning - the opposite of the brakes just locking right up - how much you can control "feathering" them.
Granted I live in the foothills of some serious mountains, but I look for a gear ratio of .75 or lower. As you say, My knees and I (all original parts!) are not getting and younger.
In my mind having almost 9 thousand subscribers does mean it took off! It’s constantly growing - I haven’t been doing bike content as long as some other - it does take time. I also like doing fun ride vids and I don’t want to stop - the talking head reviews gain more views though. 🤷♀️…and yes - we are weird, niche freaks on top of it all! 😂
I put the Paul Klampers on my Surly Struggler last year, and while they are lightyears better than the crappy TRP's I replaced, they were silly expensive and I can't say I would do it again. When it comes to aesthetics tho, they do look sweet
Excellent choice. I personally went with the gold anodized. Instead of going to a large 40 tooth cassette I swapped out my road crank to a New Albion sub compact 42/16. Keep up the good work. Enjoy your day.
Nice - yeah - those color choices are all personal. I stuck with the 50 on this bike just because I have an ATB with easier gears and I ride this as my road bike too.
Cheers!
I remember PLP stating that about those brakes. I'll have to keep them in mind. I'm currently running Yokozuna Optimos, which you probably know are hydraulic at the caliper, but cable actuated. Aside from the aluminum heat sinks in the rotors having a mild rattle, they've been flawless as well. I'm simply going to remove the heat sinks when I put new rubber on, so it's not the end of the world. Another thing in common... you mentioned the Carver bars being very compliant. I have found the same with FSA's carbon AGX K-Wings. In fact, I loved them so much that I put them on my road bike as well. The oval tops, cable routing, and the flats just behind the brake hoods take the cake. Plus, carbon really excels when it's cantilevered. The bike industry knew this early on with the addition of carbon forks and seat posts to midrange aluminum bikes. Carbon frames?... meh. I have one... probably will never have another. It was a tooth chipper until all the carbon weight bearing component upgrades (bars, stem seatpost, wheels). Damn weight weenies and their influence. ;)
Yeah - always heard good things about those brakes and one of my friends rides them. Yeah - its funny that there is all this fancy, expensive stuff to soften a ride when the right bars and post will do fine for most applications. I have an older Trek aluminum road bike with a carbon wrapped for - that thing is not compliant in anyway though - so it is now just a trainer bike.
I bought some of these brakes, went into a shop in Tokyo and they had them . Can’t wait to fit them to my Surly BC.
I have bought another set since this video for my other bike - I still love them.
@ I’ll be curious to see how my uninstalled Klampers. I seem to collect stuff, I better start installing and riding the stuff. Probably put the Klampers on my Karate Monkey.
I used a roadlink dm get get to a 31/40 and I agree it was a game changer climbing hills in central PA. Thanks for sharing all these upgrades.
Right on
I’ve got 31/40 on 650b in Tennessee. Really helps with the steep stuff. Very tempted to go hydro from spyres, as things can get a little sketchy downhill. Especially with tired hands on long days.
I have Klampers on my heavy touring bike and Growtac on my single speed and prefer the Growtac by a large margin. And I’m a huge Paul fanboy as well
Interesting to hear that for sure!
I hadn't thought about bar material having an impact on the feel on bumpy roads. Interesting point.
Material and thickness of material. There can be alloy bars that are thinner and more comfortable too - just not as thin as you can get TI to be.
any reason to not to install sealed housing ends? do these have weak return springs?
They come with o-rings to install in the ends. We did on both bikes I use them with and have no trouble. My buddy just told me e doesn't like to install them on Paul Klampers though.
Super cool bike, very unique !
So- looking at you bike in the stand….and it could be the angle? I had a Cannondale saddle years ago, With an up sweep on the tail of the saddle. Dose the saddle have an upsweep towards the whale tale ?
The saddle is well worn so yes - but I always point my Brooks up a bit even when they are new. Something with leather tensioned saddle and where you sit on them makes them more comfortable that way.
Really like having the 11-42 on the back, even looked into upgrading to 11-50.
I’d do a 50 if I could - digging the easier gears.
I'm using a goatlink 11 and a tanpan with a hack drivetrain mating GRX600 levers to a XT derailleur with a Sunrace 11-50t cassette. Shifting has been good, though I do have to sacrifice a little bit of shifting "performance" at one extreme of the cassette or the other. The main issue I have is that jumping to the 50t the chain sometimes doesn't line up right with the narrow-wide teeth. I'm thinking maybe the chain length is the issue but can't be positive.
Interesting, I didn’t know they made titanium gravel bars. I didn’t think it was possible. I have a set of groovy love handles bars, w/ a 14 % pull back or off set. Great bars for taking the chatter out of the road. Or trail…. I also have a set of Y cycles, titanium handlebars for mountain bike, and I love those too
I didn't either. Dirty River got them when the ordered some Carver frames. I hope companies start making more - they are awesome!
I'm sorry I find the Growtech, Klampers, Yokazuna's just way to expensive in general. If I'm putting out that kind of money might as well swap out my SWORD brifters and Tektro C550 brakes(OEM Spyre's). for GRX 400 Brifters and brakes and just make it full hydraulic. If you gonna pay that much for brakes I don't see why not real hydraulic.
These have hydraulic like performance without the pain or risk of failure and the maintenance.
If you travel or do long trips with your bike mechanicals are a safer bet.
I never tried to claim these are cheap - but they still work like new - this vid is probably a couple years old and I still love the brakes - even bought a set for my ATB.
If you don’t mind dealing with hydro that is fine - but just like electronic shifting - not for me.
Have you tried the trp hyrd? I'm using a pair with micro shift sword, they're really good for the price.
Nah - I’ve since bought another set of these.
Glad the STi’s are treating you well. I’ll let you know if I sell a GRX derailleur so you can run a 11-46 with the Roadlink. 😅
Any issues with shifting up to the bigger ring on your 2X? I have the 105 S11 50-34MA and T32 cassette. Looking to add a few more climbing gears on my Jamis gravel bike.
No trouble at all. When this bike was 9 speed I actually broke a derailleur and it wasn’t the smoothest / but 11 is perfect.
@@TimFitzwater Thanks for the info. I’ve been waffling back and forth on picking cassettes and wondering if a T42 pairs up just fine with the 105 S11 50-34. I read mixed reviews on this topic.
I had to use a road link by Wolf Tooth to drop the rear derailleur down to fit the bigger cassette but it still shifts just fine.
I can understand why it feels like a new bike... just like grandfathers axe! But sounds like a sweet setup.
Maybe older brother’s. 😎.
i have a 42/11 42 front 1x grx. is that the same as a 34/34? sometimes i feel like i need a little more here in mountainous Va. sometimes i wish i had more range. But probably switching to 2x grx would be too much money i think. Would have that 34 42 be worth it?
Gear inch calculations are a little confusing and beyond me but I do believe “1 to 1” is the same ie. 34x34 & 42x42. The cheapest solution would be to get a smaller front chain ring if you could live with a little less top end. I’m a huge believer in the double front chain rings for this very reason - but no one listens to me 😃
Yes, it is the same . A way to verify this is to change the calculator to gear inches in any computation chart. Inches refers to rolling distance in inches with one rev of the cranks. Both 34/34 and 42/42 are 26.30 inches. This being said, It's still pretty high for a low gear. 17 or 18 inches is getting down at the granny pace. For example, a 1x mtn bike with a 34 chainring and an 11-50 pie plate will render 17.88 inches on the low end. But only 81.26 on the high end. This is Tim's point about 2x up front and just dealing with a front derailleur. It gives you decent lows and some nice adequate highs. However, you can still have a party out back, like he did, in order to use existing equipment.
42 ! very nice, n sweet brakes..., do a vid strutting this bike's stuff?
I think 90% of my videos are this bike strutting it’s stuff! 😆
What does modulation mean? (In this context.)
Its the feeling of being able to put different pressure on the lever and get a different result in the braking. Meaning - the opposite of the brakes just locking right up - how much you can control "feathering" them.
Hey Tim - re the 11-42 cassette - I'm assuming it's from Shimano's MTB range? Deore or something like that? Cheers, Chris
Yup - Shimano Deore.
Granted I live in the foothills of some serious mountains, but I look for a gear ratio of .75 or lower. As you say, My knees and I (all original parts!) are not getting and younger.
not to bother, but link to previous vid re: this bike? THX!
Raleigh Tamland 2 (2014) | The First Ever Gravel Bike?! | 2020 Shimano 105 11 Speed Bicycle Build
th-cam.com/video/szJlsNNLlMQ/w-d-xo.html
You and your shimano love disgust me!
I am super interested in the brakes though. Thanks for (just) the tip.
Well, I can’t help it that you love giant ugly rear derailleurs. But - my second set of the brakes just came in!
@@TimFitzwater I don't like derailleurs at all.
Thanks! I'm going to stop now.
🛑
Review jack the rack.
I did - but it’s in this video! Favorite Bike-Packing/Gravel Grinding Gear 2022
th-cam.com/video/_USNixLC9D0/w-d-xo.html
I can’t believe your channel hasn’t taken off yet. Is that a sign of us all being niche freaks or are there tricks to get it out there?
In my mind having almost 9 thousand subscribers does mean it took off! It’s constantly growing - I haven’t been doing bike content as long as some other - it does take time. I also like doing fun ride vids and I don’t want to stop - the talking head reviews gain more views though. 🤷♀️…and yes - we are weird, niche freaks on top of it all! 😂
I put the Paul Klampers on my Surly Struggler last year, and while they are lightyears better than the crappy TRP's I replaced, they were silly expensive and I can't say I would do it again. When it comes to aesthetics tho, they do look sweet
I think one thing to remember about the price of the Klampers is that they will probably last forever and are easily fixable if something "brakes"....
Fake Klampers are available now, sure these brakes will follow soon....not much else out there for mechanical disc in the asian market tbh
I didn’t even know that - it not surprising.
Why would you spend that much money, when you can just go up to 180mm rotors.
For the obvious reason that bigger rotors don’t make bad brakes good brakes.
These brakes are horrible and way too expensive
You can decide what something is worth to you but the brakes are absolutely awesome.
@@TimFitzwater u say so
Yeah - after 2000 miles of riding them. Worth every gotdamn penny to me.
way too expensive for my pocket🥸
They are pricey no doubt. I can say they are still running great a couple years in and thousands of miles later.