After watching probably 20-30 other "fix squishy brakes" videos, full caliper and piston decontaminated and lubricated, and 2 full bleeds I stumbled onto this video. The segment of the video from 7m45sec was EXACTLY what I needed to finally dial in my rear brake lever. Such a simple thing and I'm glad it was the actual solution and not some bodge home remedy fix. Love your work!
I’ve watched a tonne of these videos and bleed brakes about a dozen times at least, but this is hands down the best video I’ve seen for adjustment! Thank you so much for sharing your wisdom, it’s really appreciated
This is, by far, the best DIY instructions I've seen on TH-cam. I have watched several other videos, including some from GCN, but none of them came close! The other videos contained pieces of info here and there, but fell short on key details. Using their instructions, I was bleeding and bleeding and bleeding, but the brake lever was still touching the handlebar! Pardon the pun, but I thought the hydraulic system was going to bleed to death! Thanks Oz Cycle for your comprehensive instructions and keen attention to details! Using your video, I was able to get my brakes fixed, and now they're perfect! I'm a happy camper! Thanks Oz!
A most excellent and clear video. No faff, just straight into the various problems and fixes. I'm new to hydraulic brakes, but will be saving this video so have a reference every time I need to service or fix my brakes. Thank you Oz Cycle for an excellent resource!
You are the king! I’ve done all the other steps before with mediocre results, but that topping off trick works perfectly! Thank you so much. I love that you don’t even take the wheels out. So fast!
This is by far one of the best disc brake bleed videos I've seen. You show us some very helpful and quick techniques that make it clear how to get back a responsive disc brake system. 👏👏👏
Thank You oz cycle for making this video 📹 can't believe how good your step by step video is i have been struggling for quite some time now even going to my local bike shop twice yes and parting with hard-earned cash just to still have spongy terrible brakes after watching your video a couple of times I sorted my brakes out the part were you show squeezing a little amount disc brake fluid through the brake caliper is a game changer😊... keep up the great work and again thank you😊
I can’t thank you enough! This 8:46 worked like a dream. Ever since my First bleed I’ve never been able to get either brakes on my bike perfect. I did at least 3 bleeds following, GCNs, Parktool and Cycling weekly’s videos with no success but that one tip 10/10.
Honestly this channel makes the best road bike maintenance content in world I would even dare to say. Sympathetic, cycling passionate guy obviously having many years of cycling experience with great tips and workarounds for issues. Just love the content, honestly.
Got to say, the tips in the final segments of this video are fantastic re the fine tuning of the fluid/ lever throw. I've bled, purged.....bled again my brakes, but couldn't solve the problem of the lever almost touching the bar. This trick has solved it and takes minutes.
Absolutely best cycle tech videos on the tube thanks for making this great content. Disc brakes are wonderful once you demystify the tech. I also wax my chains and will never go back to oil.
Like many others commented, I have watched so many other videos and still having issues with excess free stroke. Then I watched your video and immediately identified the problem I was having. Now I have a nice firm crispy brake.. I can’t thank you enough!!!! 🙏
Mate you absolutely saved me. All the other videos online that cover bleeds still leave my brakes ultra spongy. But your technique was amazing. Thanks again
Thank you so much!!!! I haven't even tried to use your tips yet on my mountain bike, but I am 100% certain that it will work as it makes complete mechanical sense. I was struggling with free stroke and now I know how to fix! Excellent video!
I would like to add my feedback, along with all the other people now being able to stop safely and properly on their bikes! I too watched many many bleed videos and must have flushed my system with a whole bottle of fluid, angling the bike up, down, tapping, burping, all that stuff! Finally after watching your video my brakes feel like they should! FINALLY! Thank you for being you and making quality tutorials that actually work and that apply to us home mechanics.
Always make sure your discs are completely straight before you adjust them! :P This video is really great. Author has huge knowledge[bigger than some mechanics in bike shops] and experience.
You sir are a genius. I had soft brake levers for about 2 years but after using your technique by pumping mineral oil into the calipers both levers have firmer even brake tension now. Awesome 😎👍
Gr8 again. I had this problem, and I even have the FELT Z2! Like unnamed, I tried pads, rotors and bike shop. Well your method worked. Brilliantly and now I have a bleed kit too and followed the bleed process. Tks.
Hey oz cycle! I thank you greatly for this tutorial - this saved me, after I've been fiddling and more messing around with my hydraulic brake system (Shimano 105) without success. But after watching this, it works perfectly. Thanks again!
12:00 if you don't have those spacers, just take out the wheel, put a folded business card on the rotor, put the wheel back in, then try again. Works every time for me.
Good stuff here. Thanks mate. I finally managed to get my disc brakes to the perfect point without too much effort and time. Loved the technique to push fluid through the caliper (doesn’t work if you still have air in the system, so make sure you get all those bubbles out).
Good comprehensive video (as always). I still had squishy brakes after multiple bleedings. Wish I'd checked the reach adjustment first bc that was the problem all along. I would suggest checking this first before doing anything else if the shifters are new to you. It might save you a lot of trouble.
What a great set of fine tuning tips from your experience! After the watching it seems quite obvious that we can pour some more fluid into the system and thus eliminate excessive free stroke of the pistons. What a sweet solution to make half worn pads feel like new! But without your video I would never think of doing this! Huuuuge thanks! 🙏
Fantastic, thank you. Had bled brakes, tried adjusting free stroke etc, but the issue was with the actual pressure in the system. Topped up pressure with syringe as shown and hey presto my brakes are now better than when I got the bike!
You see broader! You want to help! Thank you so much! There is no video like this in the whole world!! I purchased my Giant Defy Advanced 2019 from TBE about a year and half ago. It has a Shimano 105 group set, with a semi hydraulic brake system. I commute to work every single day no matter what and have done 5,300km so far. Rear brakes never performed. I actioned the warranty and they replaced the rear brake parts. Worked well during 2 weeks, but the brakes are now useless again (dangerous) after a couple of months. I have actioned the warranty again and looking to get them replaced to full hydraulic disc brakes. Hopefully they will replace it free of charge to compensate for all the time I have lost trying to get the mandatory rear brakes working as they should. Fingers crossed!
If you actually read shimano manual on how to bleed their brakes, there is one crucial detail everyone is missing. After attaching the hydraulic fluid vessel to the top lever port, you need to tilt your bike a bit forward, so the vessel will appear angled a bit. It helps to eliminate all the trapped air.
Thanks for posting this just in time to save my sanity! An Xmas project to move a set of 105 7020 brakes to a new frame has, lets just say, taken longer than expected 😳. All good now 👍.
08:20 A quick tip if you dont want to use the syringe to add more oil: remove the brake pads. Pump the lever about one full stroke. Put brake pads back in. This will move the pistons closer to the disc and have the same effect. Make sure you have enough oil in the system otherwise you might push air from the reservoir into the brake lines. You might need a few tries/experience to get it right. If you overdid simply push the pistons back in, center the brake with pads and rotors, and try again. Of course, both methods move the pads closer to the disc than intended - so brake rub might occur.
Valuble tips. I’ve not tried the tapping part however I had trouble with the front break and following shimanos bleeding protocol helped little. Finally I wiggled the bike around and even upside down and then 5 more big bubbles of air appeared and brake works fine now. (Prefere rim-brakes though)
I dont recall having such problems with my rim brakes. I had a mtb with disc brakes that frequently gave me issues and I had to do frequent maintenance til it reached a point I sold it away. When there's no problem everything's good but its too time consuming when there are issues. Thank you for this informative video though, great upload 👍
I had V brakes on my commuter, however if you drive much with it I had to adjust the brakes constantly. Now I retrofitted a disc brake on this bike (at least at the front where it was possible), I drove around 2500 km since mid year with it without adjusting anything on the brake. My mountain bike has also discs, as long as you be careful not getting oil on the disc (oil is nasty on disc brakes) I never had problems with it. I use relatively simple, inexpensive Shimano MT 200s, they are simple but as long as you don't use the bike for downhill etc they work fine. If a MT 200 will not work properly one day and there is no way to get it working again you could also replace it, it's 25 € for the caliper and the lever in Europe.
I always laugh when Idiots say " rim brakes don't work when wet ", they work perfect. Easier to see when worn, easier and much, much, much quicker to repair or replace. Lets not forget every time you pull back the hoods on your handlebars to top up your disc brakes fluid or check for air bubbles the hoods get a bit looser fitting each time.
@@chrisdavies3659 I still have bikes with V brakes beside others with disc brakes, I use good Kool Stop dual compound brake pads. However, even these offer less brake power than in dry condition until the wheel turned 1 or 2 times. Wet discs also do that, but the effect is less.
@@simonm1447 Been cycling for over 40 yrs, never had a rim brake fail me, or fail to stop when wet. Rim Brakes = 5 mins to replace blocks, or repair, 1 min to check for wear. Disc brakes .. buy extra tools, buy extra consumables, don't get dusty, don't get wet, don't muddy, don't over spray with chemicals, check your hydrofluids, check for air bubbles, tilt your bike tap this way, that way, clamp this, clamp that, reset this reset that, cost more, weigh more, and on, and on, and on !
@@chrisdavies3659 Which brake pads do you use? I use Kool Stop on my V brake bikes, the Shimano pads are relatively aggressive to the rim, and the original pads of my E bike (no brand pads) almost ate the rim during the first 1300 km (until I replaced them) Some bikes (like fat bikes) are only possible with discs (they never introduced fat bike rims for rim brakes), and for 27.5 inch bikes there are also only disc brakes possible because there is no V brake standard defined for this wheel size (and this rims are typically not made rim brakes), only for 26 and 28 (29 inch bikes also use 28 inch rims)
In behalf of the thickness of the pad material, it also depends on the used brake type. Simpler brakes (which use for example BS01 Resin pads) have less thickness at the beginning, but can be worn down to around 0,5 mm. Such brakes will less be found on expensive road bikes, but on beginners MTBs or commuter bikes
I have a nice comfortable full suspension trail bike. I installed a road ish wheelset and tires. The ride is amazing. Very good for my old body. Terrible for climbing lol
your onto something slightly pressurising while closing the spanner until its overloaded. tried absolutely everything (bar assembling in an oil bath) on my shimano xt's, and theyre still spongey. im going to give your technique a go and that might just do it. thank you (tip: i also tried the oven baking technique on the pads (400f 20mins) and i can confirm that works wonders to renew them, xt pads have a flaw and go bad in humidity)
another great video thank you, I have learned a lot from your videos, like waxing your chain, i wax all my chains now, keep a spare waxed and just swap thwm out when its time for rewax
I just watched another method to do this supposedly (from youtube - the bike sauce channel). Freestroke adjustment-remove wheel and squeeze lever slightly to extend the pistons/pads a bit, then put the wheel back in to check. repeat if needed, or push the pistons back in if go too far.
good tutorial , though i have doubts about releasing the air bubbles , all other videos having special container screwed into handle bar , also they suggest to tilt the bike into different angles , this video is the first one that shows the air release with just topping up oil with removed screw?
Great video. Possibly should have a warning not to keep pumping the brakes with the pads out or you might push the pistons right out, and there will be brake fluid everywhere! Might also be worth mentioning to use gloves with SRAM brakes (well any brakes that use DOT brake fluid). It probably wouldnt have such a large effect on how crisp your braking is, but if you want to get technical you may want to look up lazy/sticky pistons and see if you have that problem? The shims for aligning the callipers are interesting, as was pushing in brake fluid to increase the pressure. I dont know if what i do is bad (never heard of anyone else doing it like this and i only really work on my own bikes) but i find when im aligning my callipers, the calliper mount twists while doing up the mounting bolts (which i assume is why you say to do them up evenly bit by bit). Ill do them up with moderate force with the brakes held down then back one of slightly and tap on the end of the mount till i get it into a position where it stops rubbing. Tighten the loose one down a bit and check. Then do final torque of the mounting bolts.
There must have been an error in exiting your last video on new tools : comments are closed. Anyway, thanks for your very interesting job and point of view.
Thank you, great and clear video! I have a question about your tip at 8:46 (push more fluid through the caliper ). When we attach the tube&syringe on the caliper, aren't we trapping some little air (the one that is inside the locking nut) and pushing it inside the system? Is there a way to free that little amount of air through the syringe before pushing the oil inside? I dont' know if I explained myself....
Tap caliper and syringe tube to get bubbles to float up or pull syringe slightly to pull bubbles up , tap tube so they float up then press fluid back in.
If there is air in the line you need to burp the line first. Any air bubbles will make their way up to the reservoir in the lever - undo the 2mm hex key cap and tap on the line to release any air. Then add extra brake fluid from the bottom.
8:49 i would recommend to put some brakefluid out of the system before injection, because you dont want to introduce air in to the system. To do so press the brake lever and expand your syringe. Very professional explanation.
Good tip. After opening the bleed screw, if you draw back on the syringe plunger a bit, the air at the bleed screw comes up through the hose. Once the bubbles are safely in the syringe, then it makes sense to push on the plunger. That's also why you want to keep the syringe pointing down throughout (his rubber-band trick... I use a velcro strap).
Was amazed to see such a big piston exposure at 6:00, especially - on the right side. Which brings a question if you have ever experienced a piston coming so far, that it slips out from the rubber seal and the fluid starts to leak. Each time I clean and lubricate the piston walls like you show, I think if this scenario is possible or not 😁
So if i’m swapping my worn out brake pads with new ones, and the pistons will have come forward, should i just push those pistons back and maybe then do some fine adjustments and caliper alignment etc if necessary and there will be no need to bleed? (Brakes are just fine atm, only the pads have gotten thin) Thank you so much for the video.
After watching probably 20-30 other "fix squishy brakes" videos, full caliper and piston decontaminated and lubricated, and 2 full bleeds I stumbled onto this video. The segment of the video from 7m45sec was EXACTLY what I needed to finally dial in my rear brake lever. Such a simple thing and I'm glad it was the actual solution and not some bodge home remedy fix. Love your work!
I’ve watched a tonne of these videos and bleed brakes about a dozen times at least, but this is hands down the best video I’ve seen for adjustment! Thank you so much for sharing your wisdom, it’s really appreciated
This is, by far, the best DIY instructions I've seen on TH-cam. I have watched several other videos, including some from GCN, but none of them came close! The other videos contained pieces of info here and there, but fell short on key details. Using their instructions, I was bleeding and bleeding and bleeding, but the brake lever was still touching the handlebar! Pardon the pun, but I thought the hydraulic system was going to bleed to death!
Thanks Oz Cycle for your comprehensive instructions and keen attention to details! Using your video, I was able to get my brakes fixed, and now they're perfect! I'm a happy camper!
Thanks Oz!
A most excellent and clear video. No faff, just straight into the various problems and fixes. I'm new to hydraulic brakes, but will be saving this video so have a reference every time I need to service or fix my brakes. Thank you Oz Cycle for an excellent resource!
The most helpful brake bleeding video out there! The last part with the rubber band and getting the play out of the lever is pure gold 🥇
Best video I've seen on this process on the whole of TH-cam!
You are the king! I’ve done all the other steps before with mediocre results, but that topping off trick works perfectly! Thank you so much. I love that you don’t even take the wheels out. So fast!
This is by far one of the best disc brake bleed videos I've seen. You show us some very helpful and quick techniques that make it clear how to get back a responsive disc brake system. 👏👏👏
Masterclass in brake tweaking. Thanks a lot for this mate, perfect! 👍🏻
What a cracking video I have been scratching my head on how to improve the sensitivity and it literally is a 2 minute job. Thanks for the top tips 👍
You should've name this vid "Advanced Topics in Hydraulic Disc Brake Performance"
It's really an excellent video. Well done my friend!
My front brake lever was almost touching the bar. Your tips helped bring it back to perfection! Thank you.
These are gold! The fight is over and my brakes are so tight, I love it 😁thx for your great work.
Thank You oz cycle for making this video 📹 can't believe how good your step by step video is i have been struggling for quite some time now even going to my local bike shop twice yes and parting with hard-earned cash just to still have spongy terrible brakes after watching your video a couple of times I sorted my brakes out the part were you show squeezing a little amount disc brake fluid through the brake caliper is a game changer😊... keep up the great work and again thank you😊
Finally I've got the lever pressure I want......A big thumbs up to your method 👍👍👍
I can’t thank you enough! This 8:46 worked like a dream. Ever since my
First bleed I’ve never been able to get either brakes on my bike perfect. I did at least 3 bleeds following, GCNs, Parktool and Cycling weekly’s videos with no success but that one tip 10/10.
Excellent. Now you will be able to tune other riders hydraulic brakes 😀
Same for me. Before totally frustrated after having seen about 20 videos and some trials without success. After applying this tip: success ☺️
Honestly this channel makes the best road bike maintenance content in world I would even dare to say. Sympathetic, cycling passionate guy obviously having many years of cycling experience with great tips and workarounds for issues. Just love the content, honestly.
Me too. Just this one tip solved all the issues I had!
awesome fix
Got to say, the tips in the final segments of this video are fantastic re the fine tuning of the fluid/ lever throw. I've bled, purged.....bled again my brakes, but couldn't solve the problem of the lever almost touching the bar. This trick has solved it and takes minutes.
Absolutely best cycle tech videos on the tube thanks for making this great content. Disc brakes are wonderful once you demystify the tech. I also wax my chains and will never go back to oil.
What a clear explanation! I was scared of my hydraulics but now i have more confidence. Thanks
Unparalleled video quality. Thanks for all the tips. What a legend!
Like many others commented, I have watched so many other videos and still having issues with excess free stroke.
Then I watched your video and immediately identified the problem I was having.
Now I have a nice firm crispy brake..
I can’t thank you enough!!!! 🙏
Good to hear Steven
I've been trying loads of different methods and yours have been the best. Thanks for the lesson.
Mate you absolutely saved me. All the other videos online that cover bleeds still leave my brakes ultra spongy. But your technique was amazing. Thanks again
Thank you so much!!!! I haven't even tried to use your tips yet on my mountain bike, but I am 100% certain that it will work as it makes complete mechanical sense. I was struggling with free stroke and now I know how to fix! Excellent video!
Thank you for this fix. There’s a lot of bad advice on fixing this issue. Your method is spot on!
Great tips again!
Thanks mate, Finally I've got a firm lever, I new there wasn't air in the system but couldn't get a good lever till now, Your a star.
What timestamp worked for you?
Another absolutely stunning and invaluable video. Info you don't find elsewhere. Thank you so much!
I would like to add my feedback, along with all the other people now being able to stop safely and properly on their bikes! I too watched many many bleed videos and must have flushed my system with a whole bottle of fluid, angling the bike up, down, tapping, burping, all that stuff! Finally after watching your video my brakes feel like they should! FINALLY! Thank you for being you and making quality tutorials that actually work and that apply to us home mechanics.
Thank you for your feedback. Glad it worked for you. 👍
Always make sure your discs are completely straight before you adjust them! :P
This video is really great. Author has huge knowledge[bigger than some mechanics in bike shops] and experience.
You sir are a genius. I had soft brake levers for about 2 years but after using your technique by pumping mineral oil into the calipers both levers have firmer even brake tension now. Awesome 😎👍
Great tip for bringing up the sensitivity on the levers. 👍🔥
finally i got a channel that provide me the answer i need
Gr8 again. I had this problem, and I even have the FELT Z2! Like unnamed, I tried pads, rotors and bike shop.
Well your method worked. Brilliantly and now I have a bleed kit too and followed the bleed process.
Tks.
This video is brilliant !!! Thank you very much.
Never seen this technique before..so easy and effective. Not all the fancy stuff
Brilliant. As others below I’ve watched all the other videos and none of them mentioned pushing fluid in with the reservoir shut. It works!
Hey oz cycle! I thank you greatly for this tutorial - this saved me, after I've been fiddling and more messing around with my hydraulic brake system (Shimano 105) without success. But after watching this, it works perfectly. Thanks again!
This video is full of useful and simple techniques/info, thanks for this!
Fantastic tips. The tip for fine tuning - perfect.
Re-watch for me,such great tips. Disciplined thorough cleaning is so important. It all adds up in the end,thanks Mate
12:00 if you don't have those spacers, just take out the wheel, put a folded business card on the rotor, put the wheel back in, then try again.
Works every time for me.
Good stuff here. Thanks mate. I finally managed to get my disc brakes to the perfect point without too much effort and time. Loved the technique to push fluid through the caliper (doesn’t work if you still have air in the system, so make sure you get all those bubbles out).
Good comprehensive video (as always). I still had squishy brakes after multiple bleedings. Wish I'd checked the reach adjustment first bc that was the problem all along. I would suggest checking this first before doing anything else if the shifters are new to you. It might save you a lot of trouble.
Thank you for the tips! I bought a new gravel bike and the disc brakes are already giving me a headache to maintain! This is definitely helping.
thank you very much, this solved my braking problems, this is the best advice
Excellent video with tons of tips. Thanks a lot!!
What a great set of fine tuning tips from your experience! After the watching it seems quite obvious that we can pour some more fluid into the system and thus eliminate excessive free stroke of the pistons. What a sweet solution to make half worn pads feel like new! But without your video I would never think of doing this! Huuuuge thanks! 🙏
Odds are you probably have some air. Re-bleed the system and put extra fluid in the reservoir.
Fantastic, thank you. Had bled brakes, tried adjusting free stroke etc, but the issue was with the actual pressure in the system. Topped up pressure with syringe as shown and hey presto my brakes are now better than when I got the bike!
You see broader! You want to help! Thank you so much! There is no video like this in the whole world!!
I purchased my Giant Defy Advanced 2019 from TBE about a year and half ago. It has a Shimano 105 group set, with a semi hydraulic brake system. I commute to work every single day no matter what and have done 5,300km so far. Rear brakes never performed. I actioned the warranty and they replaced the rear brake parts. Worked well during 2 weeks, but the brakes are now useless again (dangerous) after a couple of months. I have actioned the warranty again and looking to get them replaced to full hydraulic disc brakes. Hopefully they will replace it free of charge to compensate for all the time I have lost trying to get the mandatory rear brakes working as they should. Fingers crossed!
the best video on servicing disc brakes bike on youtube thanks
You are a real bike guru! Thanks a lot
The best brake video on the internet! Please help everyone else out by adding more tag words and a discription! Shimano TRP, SRAM Hydralic ect
Thanx. What does tag labels do?...google the word and the video comes up?
@@stevenleffanue yes it makes it easier to find for people looking for things on the internet
Thanks for that. I saw the option and put those words you mentioned in. 👍
If you actually read shimano manual on how to bleed their brakes, there is one crucial detail everyone is missing. After attaching the hydraulic fluid vessel to the top lever port, you need to tilt your bike a bit forward, so the vessel will appear angled a bit. It helps to eliminate all the trapped air.
Thanks for posting this just in time to save my sanity! An Xmas project to move a set of 105 7020 brakes to a new frame has, lets just say, taken longer than expected 😳. All good now 👍.
08:20 A quick tip if you dont want to use the syringe to add more oil: remove the brake pads. Pump the lever about one full stroke. Put brake pads back in. This will move the pistons closer to the disc and have the same effect. Make sure you have enough oil in the system otherwise you might push air from the reservoir into the brake lines. You might need a few tries/experience to get it right. If you overdid simply push the pistons back in, center the brake with pads and rotors, and try again.
Of course, both methods move the pads closer to the disc than intended - so brake rub might occur.
Valuble tips. I’ve not tried the tapping part however I had trouble with the front break and following shimanos bleeding protocol helped little. Finally I wiggled the bike around and even upside down and then 5 more big bubbles of air appeared and brake works fine now.
(Prefere rim-brakes though)
I dont recall having such problems with my rim brakes. I had a mtb with disc brakes that frequently gave me issues and I had to do frequent maintenance til it reached a point I sold it away. When there's no problem everything's good but its too time consuming when there are issues.
Thank you for this informative video though, great upload 👍
I had V brakes on my commuter, however if you drive much with it I had to adjust the brakes constantly. Now I retrofitted a disc brake on this bike (at least at the front where it was possible), I drove around 2500 km since mid year with it without adjusting anything on the brake. My mountain bike has also discs, as long as you be careful not getting oil on the disc (oil is nasty on disc brakes) I never had problems with it. I use relatively simple, inexpensive Shimano MT 200s, they are simple but as long as you don't use the bike for downhill etc they work fine.
If a MT 200 will not work properly one day and there is no way to get it working again you could also replace it, it's 25 € for the caliper and the lever in Europe.
I always laugh when Idiots say " rim brakes don't work when wet ", they work perfect. Easier to see when worn, easier and much, much, much quicker to repair or replace. Lets not forget every time you pull back the hoods on your handlebars to top up your disc brakes fluid or check for air bubbles the hoods get a bit looser fitting each time.
@@chrisdavies3659 I still have bikes with V brakes beside others with disc brakes, I use good Kool Stop dual compound brake pads. However, even these offer less brake power than in dry condition until the wheel turned 1 or 2 times.
Wet discs also do that, but the effect is less.
@@simonm1447 Been cycling for over 40 yrs, never had a rim brake fail me, or fail to stop when wet. Rim Brakes = 5 mins to replace blocks, or repair, 1 min to check for wear. Disc brakes .. buy extra tools, buy extra consumables, don't get dusty, don't get wet, don't muddy, don't over spray with chemicals, check your hydrofluids, check for air bubbles, tilt your bike tap this way, that way, clamp this, clamp that, reset this reset that, cost more, weigh more, and on, and on, and on !
@@chrisdavies3659 Which brake pads do you use?
I use Kool Stop on my V brake bikes, the Shimano pads are relatively aggressive to the rim, and the original pads of my E bike (no brand pads) almost ate the rim during the first 1300 km (until I replaced them)
Some bikes (like fat bikes) are only possible with discs (they never introduced fat bike rims for rim brakes), and for 27.5 inch bikes there are also only disc brakes possible because there is no V brake standard defined for this wheel size (and this rims are typically not made rim brakes), only for 26 and 28 (29 inch bikes also use 28 inch rims)
In behalf of the thickness of the pad material, it also depends on the used brake type. Simpler brakes (which use for example BS01 Resin pads) have less thickness at the beginning, but can be worn down to around 0,5 mm.
Such brakes will less be found on expensive road bikes, but on beginners MTBs or commuter bikes
Nice one mate. Your little tip about getting the lever travel is a great one that only those of us who tinker with bikes alot know about
Shhh!...don't tell anyone Jon
Fantastic! You’ve saved my day.
Excellent as always. Thanks very much for the video
Actually use that syringe trick on my cars clutch pedal before. Never thought about using it on my bike. Awesome
I have a nice comfortable full suspension trail bike. I installed a road ish wheelset and tires.
The ride is amazing. Very good for my old body. Terrible for climbing lol
your onto something slightly pressurising while closing the spanner until its overloaded. tried absolutely everything (bar assembling in an oil bath) on my shimano xt's, and theyre still spongey. im going to give your technique a go and that might just do it. thank you
(tip: i also tried the oven baking technique on the pads (400f 20mins) and i can confirm that works wonders to renew them, xt pads have a flaw and go bad in humidity)
another great video thank you, I have learned a lot from your videos, like waxing your chain, i wax all my chains now, keep a spare waxed and just swap thwm out when its time for rewax
This is immensely helpful -- thank you!
Super great instruction!
Thank you for this video, it was very informative and helpful for me
I just watched another method to do this supposedly (from youtube - the bike sauce channel). Freestroke adjustment-remove wheel and squeeze lever slightly to extend the pistons/pads a bit, then put the wheel back in to check. repeat if needed, or push the pistons back in if go too far.
You're my brake hero!!!
Sounds like it worked for you 👍
Great video, learnt a lot ,thanks
Fantastic video, thank you for all this information! Will be saving this to my favorites so I can come back to it and use as needed.
REALLY REALLY clear. I'll have a go tomorrow. Fingers crossed and many thanks.
very very clear ...... gracias !!!
Thank you 👌
You’re a life saver thanks so much subscribed
Great video thanks 😊
You just broke some of the rules that other channel's show us , I like it 😃
Thanks!
good tutorial , though i have doubts about releasing the air bubbles , all other videos having special container screwed into handle bar , also they suggest to tilt the bike into different angles , this video is the first one that shows the air release with just topping up oil with removed screw?
Assuming there is no air in the line....yes, air removal is a different process
Great video, some extra tips in there I've not seen elsewhere. Thanks 👍🏻
Most helpful bike bleed out, thx
Great video.
Possibly should have a warning not to keep pumping the brakes with the pads out or you might push the pistons right out, and there will be brake fluid everywhere!
Might also be worth mentioning to use gloves with SRAM brakes (well any brakes that use DOT brake fluid).
It probably wouldnt have such a large effect on how crisp your braking is, but if you want to get technical you may want to look up lazy/sticky pistons and see if you have that problem?
The shims for aligning the callipers are interesting, as was pushing in brake fluid to increase the pressure.
I dont know if what i do is bad (never heard of anyone else doing it like this and i only really work on my own bikes) but i find when im aligning my callipers, the calliper mount twists while doing up the mounting bolts (which i assume is why you say to do them up evenly bit by bit). Ill do them up with moderate force with the brakes held down then back one of slightly and tap on the end of the mount till i get it into a position where it stops rubbing. Tighten the loose one down a bit and check. Then do final torque of the mounting bolts.
Thanks so much. Very useful.
Thank you so much!
There must have been an error in exiting your last video on new tools : comments are closed. Anyway, thanks for your very interesting job and point of view.
Should be right now Thierry , thanx for letting me know
Thank you, great and clear video! I have a question about your tip at 8:46 (push more fluid through the caliper ). When we attach the tube&syringe on the caliper, aren't we trapping some little air (the one that is inside the locking nut) and pushing it inside the system? Is there a way to free that little amount of air through the syringe before pushing the oil inside? I dont' know if I explained myself....
Tap caliper and syringe tube to get bubbles to float up or pull syringe slightly to pull bubbles up , tap tube so they float up then press fluid back in.
Some really useful tips thanks👍🏽
When you push brakefluid from the bottom, where does the air go that's in the brake line?
If there is air in the line you need to burp the line first. Any air bubbles will make their way up to the reservoir in the lever - undo the 2mm hex key cap and tap on the line to release any air. Then add extra brake fluid from the bottom.
8:49 i would recommend to put some brakefluid out of the system before injection, because you dont want to introduce air in to the system. To do so press the brake lever and expand your syringe. Very professional explanation.
Good tip. After opening the bleed screw, if you draw back on the syringe plunger a bit, the air at the bleed screw comes up through the hose. Once the bubbles are safely in the syringe, then it makes sense to push on the plunger. That's also why you want to keep the syringe pointing down throughout (his rubber-band trick... I use a velcro strap).
Automotive brake cleaner will easily remove the paint off of your bike frame. Automotive brake cleaner will also melt your carbon fiber frame.
Was amazed to see such a big piston exposure at 6:00, especially - on the right side. Which brings a question if you have ever experienced a piston coming so far, that it slips out from the rubber seal and the fluid starts to leak. Each time I clean and lubricate the piston walls like you show, I think if this scenario is possible or not 😁
Yep. Pulled broken pistons out to replace quite a few times.
Amazing video again. Always helpful. Thanks 👍
So if i’m swapping my worn out brake pads with new ones, and the pistons will have come forward, should i just push those pistons back and maybe then do some fine adjustments and caliper alignment etc if necessary and there will be no need to bleed? (Brakes are just fine atm, only the pads have gotten thin)
Thank you so much for the video.
Yes you will need to push the pistons back in a bit. Careful not to damage the pistons , use plastic tyre lever or correct tool.
Can I use denatured alcohol (methylated spirits as you would say 😮) instead of the isopropyl alcohol? Thanks.
Yes
Bookmarking this one under useful videos.
again a fantastic video
Brilliant video. Does the same principle apply for SRAM disc brakes when using the SRAM Bleed Edge tool?
Yes , exactly the same
Good tips. Assuming similar steps to SRAM.
Yes much the same but you will need special bleed nipple adapter